JP2908304B2 - Shoes with new structure and its manufacturing method - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to the structure and manufacturing method of shoes, and more particularly to the structure and manufacturing method of Goodyear Welt type shoes.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art The structure of a shoe conventionally used has generally been shown in FIG. That is, FIG.
FIG. 2 is a perspective view, partially in section, of the structure of each type of shoe conventionally used, (a) a Goodyear-Welt type, (b)
FIG. 2 is a partially sectional perspective view of a cement type, (c) is a McKay type, (d) is a stitch down type, (e) is a California type, and (f) is a vulcanized type. In FIG.
01, 501, 601, 701, 801, 901 are uppers, 302, 502, 602, 702, 8
02 is leather back, 303, 503, 603 is tabular, 30
4, 504, 604, 704 are outsole, 804 is platform, 305, 505, 605, 705, 805,
905 is a midsole, 306, 506, and 606 are midsole, 50
7, 607, 707 are mat leather, 308, 708 are fine leather, 8
09 is a platform leather, 310 is a rib, 311 is a rake sewing thread, 312 and 712 are outlay sewing threads, 613 is a Mackay sewing thread, 514 is an adhesive, 915 is a bottom rubber, 91
6 is a mold (Source: Reiko Suzuki, New Technique Series 37)
Making shoes, April 1977, art publishing company).

The Goodyear Welt system is a system which was successfully developed by Charles Goodyear II of the United States. An upper 301 is attached to the outer surface of a convex portion of a T-shaped rib 310 having an upper surface attached to an insole 305. The hem of the upper (upper) made by reinforcing and sewing the back leather 302 and the tabular 303 and the lower part of the strip-shaped thin leather 308 are scooped together to form the thin leather 308 raised horizontally. , Medium 30
The outer sole 304 sandwiching the upper 6 is fixed by out-stitching, and the heel and accessories are attached.
Eight stitches are visible in the 8th part (edge).

[0004] In the cement type, the upper and bottom parts are attached with an adhesive 514 (cement) without sewing with a thread. The armor, the insole 505 and the outsole 504 are all adhered and have no sewing thread. Very light and good return.

[0005] The McKay type is composed of an armor, an insole 605 and an outsole 6
It has a feature that it can be softened lightly by a manufacturing method that sewn the 04 and the inside together.

The stitch-down type is a method in which the upper 701 is hung outside, stuck to the outer sole 704, and the periphery is sewn out.
May be sewn in between. It is light and returns well, and is a typical method for producing children's shoes.

[0007] The California type is also called a platform type, and a platform winding leather 809 is applied to the front surface to form an insole 805.
Is sewn on the armor, and the platform winding leather 809 is folded back to attach an outsole called a platform 804.

The vulcanizing method is a method in which an unvulcanized synthetic bottom material that has not yet been formed is simultaneously heated and vulcanized in a bottoming step using a mold 916 to form a synthetic rubber. Depending on the shape of the mold, it can be seen as either Goodyear or Mackay. Although not shown in FIG. 3, the injection type (injection molding method) has recently been increasing. This is a manufacturing method made by injection molding a thermoplastic synthetic resin into a mold.
It is often used in casual sandals and shoes.

As described above, there are various types of shoe structures and manufacturing methods. Despite the fact that Goodyear-Welt type shoes are complicated and require a lot of materials and are expensive, they are highly evaluated as high-grade men's shoes. It is widely used around the world.

Next, referring to FIG. 4, a description will be given of a method of manufacturing a conventional good-eared-welt shoe. FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram of a method for manufacturing a conventional Goodyear Welt shoe.
(A) is a perspective view of the completed instep, (b) is a top view of a moon core inserted in the heel, (c) is a top view of a front core inserted in the toe portion, and (d) is a wooden cover. (E) is a top view of an insole with ribs, (f) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of an insole with ribs, and (g) is a perspective view of a state in which the instep is suspended on the insole with ribs. (H) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the upper and ribs and the thin leather are sewn and sewn to raise the thin leather horizontally, and (i) a cushion is placed under the midsole and the midsole is attached to the thin leather. And (j) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view in which the outsole is stuck to the midsole, and (k) is a thinner leather directly without the midsole. FIG. 3 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the leather is sewn on leather.

In FIG. 4, reference numeral 401 denotes an armor, 402 denotes a moon-shaped core, 403 denotes a leading core, 404 denotes a wooden mold, 405 denotes a midsole, 40
6 is a rib, 407 is fine leather, 408 is a midsole, 409 is a cushion, 410 is an outsole, 411 is a rake sewing thread, 41
Numeral 2 denotes a sewing thread.

[0012] The heel of the completed instep 401 has a moon-shaped core 40
2 and the tip 403 is inserted into the toe (a, b, c).

A hard midsole 405 having a top of a T-shaped leather rib 406 attached to the periphery thereof is attached to the bottom of the wooden mold 404 so that the ribs face up. The shell 401 into which the core 402 and the core 403 are inserted is put on (d, e, f).

With the bottom of the wooden form 404 facing upward, the skirt of the armor 401 is suspended inside so as to overlap the rib 406 (g).

A thin leather 407 is provided on the outer side of the hem of the upper 401, and the rib 406, the hem of the upper 401 and the lower portion of the fine leather 407 are sewn with a scooping thread 411, and the upper portion of the thin leather 407 is leveled. Raise in the direction (h).

The cushion 40 is sandwiched in the space between the midsole 405 and the midsole 408, and the thin leather 40 is raised horizontally.
7 and the periphery of the intermediate bottom 408 are sewn with the sewing thread 412 (i).

Attach the outsole 410 to the midsole 408, attach the heel, determine the edge (side surface around the outsole) with a grinder, and finish (j).

Also, the center sole 408 is not used and the outsole 41 is not used.
There is also a manufacturing method in which 0 is directly put on the thin leather 407, sewn with a sewing thread 412, a heel is attached, and the edge is determined by a grinder (the side surface around the outsole) (k).

Here, the rake sewing thread or rake sewing is a single loop sewing (single needle, single thread) symbol C11 of JIS9070 "Terminology and display method for classification of industrial sewing machines".
This is a sewing method in which one thread is used to sew annular threads coming out of the next thread hole one after another in a loop of an annular thread coming out of the thread hole, and sewing is performed. The set sewing thread or the set sewing is a sewing method corresponding to a lockstitch (single needle, double thread) symbol L12, and a sewing method in which two threads on both sides are entangled between objects to be sewn. .

[0020]

As described above, shoes of the structure of the Goodyear-Welt type are highly evaluated as high-grade men's shoes and are widely used around the world, but have the following problems. is there.

1. It is necessary to use a hard middle sole in order to fix the rib and adjust the shape of the bottom, and the flexibility of the bottom is poor.

2. The shoes are heavy as a whole because the insole is thick.

3. Since the insole is stiff, the return is bad and it takes time to get used to it.

4. Cushioning is poor when worn because the cushion is provided with a hard midsole.

[5] The whole is hard and the foot contact is not good.

An object of the present invention is to provide a shoe which is flexible, has good foot contact, and has a profound feeling similar to that of a shoe having a good-eared-welt-type structure and has a high style.

[0027]

The shoe of the present invention has a heel.
The moon-shaped core is inserted into the toe, and the upper and back leather
In shoes and a manufacturing upper and bottom finished equipped, bottom, consists insole outsole and flexible, the peripheral portion of the insole is, the skirt of manufacturing instep on the inside of the entire circumference mating ends Sewn in a bag-like shape in the same direction, the lower part of an elongated belt-like thin leather was sewn with a rake sewing thread with the ends aligned with the outside of the entire circumference of the instep's hem, and bent outward in a substantially right angle direction The outsole is attached to the entire periphery of the lower surface of the upper part of the fine leather.

Also, a moon-shaped core is provided at the heel, and a tip-shaped core is provided at the toe.
Is inserted, and in a shoe having a finished upper and a bottom provided with an upper and a back leather , the bottom is composed of an outsole, a midsole and a flexible midsole, and a peripheral edge of the midsole is provided. , Sewn in a bag-like shape in the same direction, with the edge inside the entire circumference of the hem of the armor,
The lower part of the elongate belt-like thin leather is sewn with a rake sewing thread with the edges aligned to the outside of the entire circumference of the instep's hem, and fits all around the lower surface of the upper part of the thin leather bent outward at a substantially right angle. The periphery of the insole may be engaged, and the outsole may be attached to the lower surface of the insole.

Further, the inner bottom may be made of two plate-like materials having a cushion attached to the inside thereof, the periphery of which is attached in a bag shape.

The method of manufacturing a shoe according to the present invention is a method of manufacturing a shoe having the above-described structure, comprising the steps of inserting a lunar core into a heel portion of a completed upper and a toe core into a toe portion; instep of the foot portion to the inside of the entire circumference, a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the middle bottom substantially coincides with the tip of manufacturing instep of the foot portion, Ltd. instep of the foot portion all <br/> On the outer surface of the circumference, sew a strip-shaped thin leather with a rake sewing thread so that the tip of the lower part of the thin leather substantially coincides with the tip of the hem of the instep, and make the upper part of the thin leather outward in a substantially right angle direction. And a step of engaging the outer sole with a cushioning material between the insole and the entire periphery of the lower surface of the upper part of the thin leather bent in a substantially right angle direction, and attaching the outer sole to the heel on the lower surface of the outer sole. And finishing the whole.

In addition, a step of inserting a lunar core into the heel portion of the completed instep, and inserting a toe core into the toe part, and placing the insole inside the entire periphery of the skirt of the instep, A step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip substantially matches the tip of the hem of the instep, and an elongated belt-like thin leather is made on the outer surface of the entire circumference of the hem of the instep, and the tip of the lower part of the thin leather is made. A step of sewing the upper part of the fine leather outward in a substantially right angle direction by sewing with a rake sewing thread so as to substantially match the tip of the instep's hem, and the entire circumference of the lower surface of the upper part of the fine leather bent in a substantially right angle direction The step of engaging the midsole, which is the intermediate member of the bottom, with the cushioning material interposed between the midsole, the step of engaging the outsole to the lower surface of the midsole, and the lower surface of the outsole A step of engaging the heel and finishing the whole.

[0032]

Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing the structure of a shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram of a method of manufacturing the shoe according to the embodiment of the present invention. A perspective view, (b) is a top view of a moon core inserted into a heel, (c) is a top view of a front core inserted in a toe portion, (d) is a perspective view of an instep with a core inserted, and (e) is a middle view. Top view of the bottom,
(F) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the insole, (g) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the state in which the insole is sewn to the upper, and (h) is scoop-sewn the upper, the insole and the thin leather. Partial perspective view of a state in which the leather is raised horizontally, (i) is a partial sectional perspective view of a state in which a cushion is inserted under the insole, the insole is attached, and the fine leather and the insole are sewn out, and (j). FIG. 3 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which an outsole is stuck to the midsole, and FIG. 2 (k) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which outer leather is directly sewn onto fine leather without using the midsole.

In the drawing, reference numeral 101 denotes an armor, 102 denotes a lunar core, 103 denotes a leading core, 105 denotes an insole, 105a denotes leather,
5b is an anti-spreading material, 105c is a sponge, 107 is fine leather, 108 is a middle sole, 109 is a cushion, and 110 is an outsole.

As shown in FIG. 1, the shoe according to the present embodiment has a flexible insole 10 having a sponge 105c therein.
5 is sewn in the same direction on the inner side of the hem of the instep 101 completed by reinforcing and sewing the upper 101a, the back leather 101b and the tabular 101c, and the lower part of the strip-like thin leather 107 is further sewn. The bottom 110 is sewn with a scooping thread together with the insole 105 on the entire outer surface of the hem portion of the instep 101 with the front end fitted, and the cushion 109 is sandwiched on the lower surface of the upper part of the thin leather 107 bent downward. Exposed sewing thread 1
The heel and accessories are fixed at 12, and the thread of the sewing is visible on the thin leather 107 portion (edge) around the upper 101a.

In this figure, the outsole 110 is sewn directly to the thin leather 107, but the middle bottom 108, which is the middle bottom, is sewn to the thin leather 107, and the outsole 110 is attached to the middle bottom 108. There are also those with a structure.

Next, a method of manufacturing a shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.

The upper core 101a, the back leather 101b, and the tougher 101c are reinforced and sewn, and the lumber core 102 is inserted into the heel portion and the toe core 103 is inserted into the toe portion (a, b, c). .

A midsole 105 composed of a bag-shaped leather 105a and a non-spreading material 105b and a sponge 105c filled therebetween is provided inside the skirt portion of the upper shell 101, and at a peripheral portion of the midsole 105. Sewing is performed so that the front end substantially matches the front end of the skirt portion of the upper shell 101 (d, e, f, g).

Next, a wooden mold is put into the upper shell 101, and the upper shell 101
On the outer surface of the hem portion, a thin strip-shaped thin leather 107 is
7 is sewed with a rake sewing thread so that the lower end of the lower part 7 substantially matches the end of the hem of the upper body 101, and the upper part of the fine leather 107 is raised in the horizontal direction (h).

The midsole 105 and the midsole 108 to be attached next
Then, the cushion 109 is sandwiched in the space between the upper and lower edges of the fine leather 107 raised horizontally and the peripheral edge of the middle bottom 108 are sewn with the sewing thread 112 (i).

The outsole 110 is attached to the center 108, the heel is attached, the edge is determined with a grinder (side surface around the outsole), and finishing is performed (j).

Also, the outsole 11 is used without using the center 108.
There is also a manufacturing method in which 0 is directly sewn to the thin leather 107 by scooping, the heel is attached, the edge is determined by a grinder (the side surface around the outsole) and finished (k).

In the present embodiment, the thin leather 107 and the midsole 105 or the midsole 108 are fixed with the sewing thread 112 in a Goodyear-Welt manner, but if both can be engaged, they are fixed by bonding or other method. No problem.

Further, a leather 10 formed in a bag shape as an insole is provided.
Although the insole 105 composed of the anti-spread material 5a and the sponge 105c filled therebetween is used, the object of the present invention can be achieved as long as the material and structure can function as the insole. For example, one thin leather may be used.

[0045]

As described above, according to the present invention, the conventional good-ear welting method does not use the harder insole, which is the cause of the poor flexibility of the shoe sole, but uses the softer insole to sew. Since the shoe sole is attached to the thin leather by attaching the shoe sole and the instep is not suspended, the following effects are obtained because the instep keeps flexibility.

1. Except for the midsole, it can be made of the same material and structure as the conventional Goodyear Welt system,
Goodyear Welt Style Shoes can be made with a unique style and style.

2. The flexibility of the bottom was improved because the hard middle sole was not used.

3. It's lighter because it doesn't use a thick one-piece insole.

4. Since the insole has flexibility, it fits your feet from the day you wear it.

5. Since the midsole containing the cushion material can be used, the cushioning property is good.

6. The function can be changed by changing the material and structure of the insole.

7. There is no need to hang the instep hem to the difficult midsole ribs.

8. The bottom can be replaced any number of times.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a partial sectional perspective view showing a structure of a shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram of a method of manufacturing a shoe according to an embodiment of the present invention. (A) is a perspective view of the completed armor. (B) is a top view of the moon core inserted into the heel, and (c) is a top view of the front core inserted into the toe. (D) is a perspective view of the instep with the core inserted. (E) is a top view of the midsole. (F)
FIG. 3 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the midsole. (G) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the insole is sewn to the armor. (H) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the upper, the insole, and the fine leather are scooped and the fine leather is horizontally raised. (I) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which a cushion is placed under the midsole, the midsole is attached, and the thin leather and the midsole are stitched out. (J) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the outsole is attached to the midsole. (K) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the outer leather is directly sewn onto fine leather without using the middle sole.

FIG. 3 is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the structure of each type of shoes conventionally used. (A) is a Goodyear Welt type. (B) is a cement type. (C) is the McKay type. (D) is a stitch-down type. (E) is a California style. (F) is a vulcanized type.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory view of a method for producing a conventional Goodyear Welt type shoe. (A) is a perspective view of the completed armor.
(B) is a top view of the moon-shaped core put in the heel. (C)
FIG. 4 is a top view of a tip inserted into a toe. (D) is a perspective view of the armor over the wooden form. (E) is a top view of the insole with ribs. (F) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of the ribbed midsole. (G) is a perspective view of a state where the armor is suspended from the insole with ribs. (H) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which the armor, ribs and fine leather are scooped and the fine leather is raised horizontally.
(I) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view of a state in which a cushion is placed under the midsole, the midsole is attached, and the thin leather and the midsole are stitched out. (J) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the outsole is attached to the midsole. (K) is a partial cross-sectional perspective view showing a state in which the outer leather is directly sewn onto fine leather without using the middle sole.

[Explanation of symbols]

101, 401 Upper shell 102, 402 Moon-shaped core 103, 403 Front core 105, 405 Midsole 105a Leather 105b Non-spreading material 105c Sponge 107, 308, 407, 708 Fine leather 108, 408 Intermediate bottom 109, 409 Cushion 110, 410 Outsole 111, 411 Rake sewing thread 112, 312, 412, 712 Take out sewing thread 301, 501, 601, 701, 801, 901
Upper 302, 502, 602, 702, 802 Back leather 303, 503, 603 Tabular 304, 504, 604, 704 Outsole 305, 505, 605, 705, 805, 905
Midsole 306, 506, 606 Medium thing 310 Rib 311 Rake sewing thread 406 Rib 514 Adhesive 507, 607, 707 Floor mat 613 Macke sewing thread 804 Platform 809 Platform winding leather 915 Bottom rubber 916 Mold

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-4-51903 (JP, A) JP-A-6-141903 (JP, A) JP-A-53-84443 (JP, U) (58) Survey Field (Int.Cl. ⁶ , DB name) A43B 1/00-23/30 B29D 31/50

Claims (4)

(57) [Claims] 1. A shoe having a finished upper and a sole with a moon core inserted into a heel and a toe inserted into a toe, and an upper and a back leather, wherein the bottom is an outsole The inner edge of the insole is sewn in the form of a bag so as to be united in the same direction with its end aligned inside the entire periphery of the instep hem and sewn with only sewing thread. , The lower part of the elongate strip-shaped thin leather is sewn with a rake sewing thread with its ends aligned with the outside of the entire circumference of the instep hem,
Table bottom all around the upper part of the lower surface of substantially the thin leather bent outwardly at right angles is engaged, insole and manufacturing instep and direct
A shoe characterized by being joined by only one thread . 2. A shoe having a completed upper and a sole with a moon core in a heel part, a toe part in a toe part, and an upper and a back leather, wherein the bottom is an outsole. It is composed of an insole and a flexible insole,
Only the sewing thread is formed in a bag shape so that the peripheral portion of the midsole is integrated in the same direction with the end portion being aligned inside the entire periphery of the hem portion of the instep.
In sewn, elongated strip-like lower portion of the thin leather is sewn by sewing thread rake combined end outside the entire circumference skirt of the steel shell, the thin leather top of which is bent outwardly in a substantially perpendicular direction straight of the entire periphery of the case in bottom periphery engaged in the lower surface, the outsole to a lower surface of the alloy in the bottom has been engaged, and the midsole and manufacturing instep
A shoe characterized by being joined with only one thread . 3. A method of manufacturing a shoe having the structure according to claim 1, wherein a step of inserting a moon-shaped core into a heel portion of a completed armor, and a step of inserting a toe core into a toe portion is performed. A step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the insole substantially matches the tip of the hem of the instep, and the outer surface of the entire circumference of the skirt of the instep Then, sewn a long and thin strip of leather with a rake sewing thread such that the lower end of the thin leather substantially coincides with the tip of the skirt of the upper, and the upper part of the thin leather is directed outward in a substantially right angle direction. A step of bending; and a step of engaging the outer sole with a cushioning material interposed between the inner sole and the lower surface of the upper part of the fine leather bent in a substantially right angle direction, and a lower surface of the outer sole. A method of engaging the heel and finishing the whole. 4. A method of manufacturing a shoe having the structure according to claim 2, wherein a step of inserting a moon-shaped core into a heel portion of a completed armor and a point of a toe core into a toe portion is performed. Inside the entire circumference of the hem, a step of sewing in the same direction so that the tip of the peripheral edge of the midsole substantially coincides with the tip of the hem of the instep, and on the outer surface of the skirt of the instep Sewn the strip-shaped thin leather with a rake sewing thread such that the lower end of the thin leather substantially coincides with the tip of the hem of the upper, and bend the upper portion of the thin leather outward in a substantially right angle direction. And a step of attaching a middle insole, which is an intermediate member of the bottom, with a cushioning material interposed between the inner bottom and the entire periphery of the lower surface of the upper portion of the fine leather bent in a substantially right angle direction. A method of manufacturing a shoe, comprising: attaching an outsole to a lower surface of the midsole; and attaching a heel to the lower surface of the outsole to finish the whole.