JP2021188156A - False-twisted yarn, and woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents
False-twisted yarn, and woven or knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 27
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 77
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 72
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
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- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 19
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 16
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 15
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 15
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 13
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 10
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 8
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000000149 argon plasma sintering Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000006866 deterioration Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 4
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- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 4
- KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Terephthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(O)=O)C=C1 KKEYFWRCBNTPAC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
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- QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophthalic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC(C(O)=O)=C1 QQVIHTHCMHWDBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N sebacic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O CXMXRPHRNRROMY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,2,4,4,6,6-hexaphenoxy-1,3,5-triaza-2$l^{5},4$l^{5},6$l^{5}-triphosphacyclohexa-1,3,5-triene Chemical compound N=1P(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)(OC=2C=CC=CC=2)=NP=1(OC=1C=CC=CC=1)OC1=CC=CC=C1 RNFJDJUURJAICM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QATHNKNPUVVKHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-[(1,5-dimethyl-3-oxo-2-phenylpyrazol-4-yl)methyl]-1,5-dimethyl-2-phenylpyrazol-3-one Chemical compound O=C1N(C=2C=CC=CC=2)N(C)C(C)=C1CC(C1=O)=C(C)N(C)N1C1=CC=CC=C1 QATHNKNPUVVKHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-methylidene-3,5-dioxabicyclo[5.2.2]undeca-1(9),7,10-triene-2,6-dione Chemical compound C1(C2=CC=C(C(=O)OC(=C)O1)C=C2)=O LLLVZDVNHNWSDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241001589086 Bellapiscis medius Species 0.000 description 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002292 Nylon 6 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 244000089486 Phragmites australis subsp australis Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920000954 Polyglycolide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000006096 absorbing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- QYQADNCHXSEGJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N cyclohexane-1,1-dicarboxylate;hydron Chemical compound OC(=O)C1(C(O)=O)CCCCC1 QYQADNCHXSEGJT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000001991 dicarboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003063 flame retardant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006081 fluorescent whitening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003112 inhibitor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004898 kneading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004611 light stabiliser Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 229920000747 poly(lactic acid) Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004626 polylactic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000011002 quantification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002516 radical scavenger Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000013585 weight reducing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は、湿潤時の防透け性や堅牢度、さらに製造工程通過性に優れた仮撚糸及び織編物に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a false plyed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which are excellent in see-through resistance and fastness when wet, and also have excellent passability in a manufacturing process.
従来、防透け性や紫外線遮蔽性、遮熱性等を織編物に付与する技術としては、セラミックス、中でも酸化チタンを、織編物を構成する繊維に練り込む方法が周知で一般に良く行われている。しかしながら単純に酸化チタンの含有量を増加すると、糸表面に存在する酸化チタンの量が増え、紡糸工程、延伸工程、仮撚工程、撚糸工程、製織工程、製編工程などにおける糸道ガイド、ロ−ラ、筬、編針等が著しく摩耗され、頻繁に部品を交換する必要が生じる。また、繊維自体に毛羽、糸切れが多発する。従って酸化チタンの含有量は高々繊維構成材料の2〜3重量%が限界であった。 Conventionally, as a technique for imparting transparency, ultraviolet shielding property, heat shielding property, etc. to a woven or knitted fabric, a method of kneading ceramics, particularly titanium oxide, into fibers constituting the woven or knitted fabric is well known and generally performed. However, if the content of titanium oxide is simply increased, the amount of titanium oxide present on the yarn surface increases, and the yarn guide in the spinning process, drawing process, false twisting process, twisting process, weaving process, knitting process, etc. -Las, reeds, knitting needles, etc. are significantly worn, and parts need to be replaced frequently. In addition, fluff and thread breakage occur frequently on the fiber itself. Therefore, the content of titanium oxide was limited to 2 to 3% by weight of the fiber constituent material at most.
かかる欠点を改善するため芯鞘型複合繊維が提案されている(特許文献1参照)。本手法では内層部に高濃度の酸化チタンを含有させ、外層部の酸化チタン含有率を少なくすることで、糸道ガイド類の摩耗を改善しつつ、一定の防透け性効果を得ている。しかし、本手法では仮撚後の防透け効果、また酸化チタンが高濃度で含有されたときの織編物の堅牢度は全く考慮されていないものであった。 In order to improve such a defect, a core-sheath type composite fiber has been proposed (see Patent Document 1). In this method, a high concentration of titanium oxide is contained in the inner layer portion and the titanium oxide content in the outer layer portion is reduced, so that the wear of the thread guides is improved and a certain transparency effect is obtained. However, in this method, the see-through effect after false twisting and the fastness of the woven or knitted fabric when titanium oxide is contained in a high concentration are not taken into consideration at all.
また、上記芯鞘型複合繊維に異型断面を加味して、防透け性やドライ感、ドレープを付与した芯鞘複合繊維が提案されている(特許文献2参照)。しかし、本手法においても、仮撚後の防透け効果、また織編物の堅牢度は全く考慮されていないものであった。 Further, there has been proposed a core-sheath composite fiber in which a modified cross section is added to the core-sheath type composite fiber to give a see-through property, a dry feeling, and a drape (see Patent Document 2). However, even in this method, the see-through effect after false twisting and the fastness of the woven or knitted fabric are not considered at all.
一方、近年、防透け性へのニーズが高まり、乾燥状態の防透け性のみならず、湿潤状態の防透け性も要望されるようになってきている。湿潤状態になると光散乱が抑制されることで、より透けるようになるので、高い防透け素材への要求がますます高まっている。この状況を鑑みて、2017年にはJIS L1923「繊維製品の防透け性評価方法」において湿潤状態の防透け性も規定された。 On the other hand, in recent years, the need for see-through property has increased, and not only the see-through property in a dry state but also the see-through property in a wet state has been demanded. In a wet state, light scattering is suppressed and the material becomes more transparent, so there is an increasing demand for a highly transparent material. In view of this situation, in 2017, JIS L1923 "Method for evaluating the see-through property of textile products" also specified the see-through property in the wet state.
湿潤状態の防透け性については、芯鞘型複合繊維に中空部断面を加味した仮撚中空マルチフィラメント糸の効能として提案されている(特許文献3参照)。しかしながら、本手法においては、仮撚後の防透け効果、工程通過性を考慮しているものの、湿潤状態の防透け性に関しては、湿潤状態の白度の低下を独自の手法で測定しているにすぎず、不十分なものであった。 The see-through property in a wet state has been proposed as an effect of a false twisted hollow multifilament yarn in which a hollow portion cross section is added to a core-sheath type composite fiber (see Patent Document 3). However, in this method, although the see-through effect after false twisting and the process passability are taken into consideration, the decrease in whiteness in the wet state is measured by an original method for the see-through property in the wet state. It was just inadequate.
また、芯鞘型ポリエステル扁平断面繊維とすることで、仮撚後も高い防透け性能を持つ繊維が提案されている(特許文献4参照)。しかし、本手法においても、湿潤状態の防透け性能については言及されておらず、十分な効果が期待できるものではなかった。 Further, a fiber having a high see-through resistance even after false twisting has been proposed by using a core-sheath type polyester flat cross-section fiber (see Patent Document 4). However, even in this method, the see-through performance in a wet state is not mentioned, and a sufficient effect cannot be expected.
このように一般アウター衣料に幅広く展開される仮撚糸において、JISで規定された湿潤状態の防透け性評価に十分に対応した素材は得られていなかった。 As described above, in the false twisted yarn widely developed for general outer clothing, a material sufficiently corresponding to the transparency evaluation in a wet state specified by JIS has not been obtained.
本発明においては上述の問題点を解決するものであり、湿潤状態の防透け性及や堅牢度、さらに製造工程通過性に優れた仮撚糸及びそれを用いた織編物を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention solves the above-mentioned problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a false twisted yarn having excellent transparency and fastness in a wet state and excellent passability in a manufacturing process, and a woven or knitted fabric using the same. do.
上記課題を解決するための本発明は、以下のいずれかの構成を特徴とする。
(1) 少なくとも酸化チタン含有率が0〜2質量%の最外層部及び酸化チタン含有率が11〜30質量%の内層部を有し、内層部の酸化チタンがルチル型であり、交絡度が30〜180ケ/mであることを特徴とする仮撚糸。
(2) 扁平度が2.5以下であることを特徴とする、前記(1)に記載の仮撚糸。
(3) 捲縮率が25〜45%であることを特徴とする、前記(1)または(2)に記載の仮撚糸。
(4) 前記内層部の内側に、酸化チタン含有率が0〜2質量%の最内層部を有していることを特徴とする、前記(1)〜(3)のいずれかに記載の仮撚糸。
(5) 前記(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載の仮撚糸を用いた織編物。
(6) 前記仮撚糸とセルロース繊維とを交織または交編することを特徴する、前記(5)に記載の織編物。
The present invention for solving the above problems is characterized by any of the following configurations.
(1) It has at least an outermost layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 0 to 2% by mass and an inner layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 11 to 30% by mass, and the titanium oxide in the inner layer portion is a rutile type and has a degree of entanglement. False twisted yarn characterized by being 30 to 180 k / m.
(2) The falsely twisted yarn according to (1) above, wherein the flatness is 2.5 or less.
(3) The falsely twisted yarn according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the crimp ratio is 25 to 45%.
(4) The provisional provision according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the innermost layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 0 to 2% by mass is provided inside the inner layer portion. Plying.
(5) A woven or knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn according to any one of (1) to (4) above.
(6) The woven or knitted product according to (5) above, wherein the false twisted yarn and the cellulose fiber are interwoven or knitted.
本発明によれば、酸化チタンが内層部に高濃度で含有されるにも関わらず、堅牢度、製造工程通過性に優れ、かつ湿潤状態の防透け性を兼ね備えた仮撚糸および織編物を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, there is provided a false plying yarn and a woven or knitted fabric which are excellent in fastness, passability through a manufacturing process, and have transparency resistance in a wet state, even though titanium oxide is contained in a high concentration in the inner layer portion. can do.
本発明の仮撚糸においては、少なくとも酸化チタン高含有の内層部と酸化チタン低含有の最外層部を有することが重要である。酸化チタン含有率が0〜2質量%の最外層部を有することで、紡糸や仮撚、製織工程で酸化チタンとガイド等の糸道擦過を低減することができ、工業的安定生産することが可能になる。また最外層の酸化チタン含有率が低いことで、繊維表面の反射率が高くなるが、特に湿潤状態での正反射率が高くなることで、ミラー効果が発生し、織編物の場合裏側が視認しにくくなる。そのため、湿潤状態の防透け性を向上させることができる。この湿潤時のミラー効果は、他のセルロース系繊維等の繊維との交織、交編をしたときに、特に顕著となる。なお、最外層部の酸化チタン含有率は、該最外層部の質量対比の値であって、その含有率が2質量%を超えると、製造工程通過性が極端に悪化する。さらに好ましい最外層部の酸化チタン含有率は0〜1質量%であり、最外層部に酸化チタンを全く含有しなくてもよい。 It is important that the false twisted yarn of the present invention has at least an inner layer portion containing a high amount of titanium oxide and an outermost layer portion containing a low titanium oxide content. By having the outermost layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 0 to 2% by mass, it is possible to reduce the friction of titanium oxide and the yarn such as guides in the spinning, false twisting, and weaving processes, and industrial stable production can be achieved. It will be possible. In addition, since the titanium oxide content of the outermost layer is low, the reflectance of the fiber surface is high, but the mirror effect is generated especially by the high regular reflectance in the wet state, and the back side is visible in the case of woven and knitted fabrics. It becomes difficult to do. Therefore, it is possible to improve the see-through property in a wet state. This Miller effect at the time of wetting becomes particularly remarkable when interwoven or knitted with other fibers such as cellulosic fibers. The titanium oxide content of the outermost layer portion is a value relative to the mass of the outermost layer portion, and when the content ratio exceeds 2% by mass, the passability in the manufacturing process is extremely deteriorated. A more preferable titanium oxide content in the outermost layer portion is 0 to 1% by mass, and the outermost layer portion may not contain titanium oxide at all.
また、本発明の仮撚糸は酸化チタン含有率が11〜30質量%の内層部を有することで、防透け性、特に湿潤状態での防透け性を向上させることができる。通常の乾燥状態での防透け性のみであれば、酸化チタン含有率が11質量%未満でも得ることは可能であるが、湿潤状態では光散乱が抑制されることで、より透けるようになる。そのため、本発明においては、酸化チタン含有率が11質量%以上の内層部が必須である。しかし、内層部の酸化チタン含有率が30質量%を超えると、糸強度が極端に低下する問題が発生する。そのため内層部の酸化チタン含有率は、上記の範囲のとおりである。さらに好ましい内層部の酸化チタン含有率は12〜18質量%である。 Further, since the false twisted yarn of the present invention has an inner layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 11 to 30% by mass, it is possible to improve the see-through property, particularly the see-through property in a wet state. It is possible to obtain a titanium oxide content of less than 11% by mass as long as it is only transparent in a normal dry state, but it becomes more transparent by suppressing light scattering in a wet state. Therefore, in the present invention, an inner layer portion having a titanium oxide content of 11% by mass or more is indispensable. However, if the titanium oxide content of the inner layer portion exceeds 30% by mass, there arises a problem that the yarn strength is extremely lowered. Therefore, the titanium oxide content in the inner layer is within the above range. A more preferable content of titanium oxide in the inner layer portion is 12 to 18% by mass.
一方、内層部の酸化チタン含有率が高い仮撚糸において、大きな課題は堅牢度である。酸化チタンは光照射によりラジカルが発生し、ポリマーや染料を酸化分解し、耐光堅牢度悪化や黄変発生という問題が発生する。仮撚糸は繊維断面が変形することで、たとえ最外層に保護層を有していても、一部の保護層が変形して薄くなることで、耐光堅牢度悪化や黄変の問題が特に発生しやすい。 On the other hand, in the false twisted yarn having a high titanium oxide content in the inner layer portion, a big problem is fastness. Titanium oxide generates radicals when irradiated with light, oxidatively decomposes polymers and dyes, and causes problems such as deterioration of light fastness and yellowing. Due to the deformation of the fiber cross section of the false plying, even if the outermost layer has a protective layer, some of the protective layers are deformed and become thinner, which causes problems such as deterioration of light fastness and yellowing. It's easy to do.
そのため、本発明においては、光照射してもラジカルを発生し難いルチル型の酸化チタンを内層部に用いる。こうすることで、内層部の酸化チタン含有率が高く、かつ仮撚で繊維断面が変形した状態においても、耐光堅牢度悪化や黄変の発生を抑制することができる。ここで、酸化チタンとして通常のアナターゼ型を使用すると、安価に製造できるというメリットはあるが、光照射により、耐光堅牢度悪化や黄変は避けられない。そのため、本発明においては、酸化チタンを高濃度で含有せしめる内層部にはルチル型の酸化チタンを用いる。なお、酸化チタン含有率が少ない最外層部はルチル型でもアナターゼ型でも問題ない。 Therefore, in the present invention, rutile-type titanium oxide, which does not easily generate radicals even when irradiated with light, is used for the inner layer portion. By doing so, even when the titanium oxide content in the inner layer portion is high and the fiber cross section is deformed by false twisting, deterioration of light fastness and occurrence of yellowing can be suppressed. Here, if a normal anatase type is used as titanium oxide, there is an advantage that it can be manufactured at low cost, but deterioration of light fastness and yellowing are unavoidable due to light irradiation. Therefore, in the present invention, rutile-type titanium oxide is used for the inner layer portion containing titanium oxide at a high concentration. The outermost layer having a low titanium oxide content may be a rutile type or an anatase type.
最外層部と内層部の質量比率は、最外層部:内層部が10:90〜40:60の範囲であることが好ましい。この範囲の比率が防透け性と工程通過性を両立する点で好ましい。さらに好ましくは15:85〜25:75の比率である。 The mass ratio of the outermost layer portion to the inner layer portion is preferably in the range of 10:90 to 40:60 for the outermost layer portion: the inner layer portion. A ratio in this range is preferable in terms of achieving both transparency resistance and process passability. More preferably, the ratio is 15:85 to 25:75.
また、本発明の仮撚糸は内層部と最外層部の2層構成のみならず、3層構成以上であっても構わない。積層数が増えると、積層界面でも光反射され、防透け性がさらに向上するので、好ましい。コストと防透け性能の両立の点から、好ましくは、前記最外層部と、前記内層部と、該内層部のさらに内側に設けた最内層部とからなる3層構成である。このような3層構成の場合、酸化チタン含有率が高い内層部の質量比率が仮撚糸の25質量%以上であれば、防透け性能は維持できるので、最内層部の酸化チタン含有率は低くても問題無い。とりわけ、最内層部の酸化チタン含有率が2質量%以下の場合には、防透け性に加え、発色性も向上するので好ましい。 Further, the false twisted yarn of the present invention may have not only a two-layer structure of an inner layer portion and an outermost layer portion but also a three-layer structure or more. When the number of layers is increased, light is reflected even at the layered interface, and the transparency resistance is further improved, which is preferable. From the viewpoint of achieving both cost and see-through performance, a three-layer configuration including the outermost layer portion, the inner layer portion, and the innermost layer portion provided further inside the inner layer portion is preferable. In the case of such a three-layer structure, if the mass ratio of the inner layer portion having a high titanium oxide content is 25% by mass or more of the false twisted yarn, the see-through performance can be maintained, so that the titanium oxide content of the innermost layer portion is low. But there is no problem. In particular, when the titanium oxide content in the innermost layer portion is 2% by mass or less, it is preferable because not only the transparency resistance but also the color development property is improved.
本発明の仮撚糸はポリエステル繊維でもナイロン繊維でも構わないが、好ましくは高屈折で捲縮堅牢性が高いポリエステル繊維である。具体例として、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリプロピレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレートなどの芳香族系ポリエステル繊維、ポリ乳酸、ポリグリコール酸などの脂肪族系ポリエステル繊維などが挙げられるが、これらに限定されない。なかでも、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリプロピレンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレートの繊維は、機械的特性や耐久性に優れ、捲縮が堅牢であるため好ましい。また、ポリエチレンテレフタレートの繊維はポリエステル繊維特有の洗濯耐久性が得られるため好ましい。 The false twisted yarn of the present invention may be a polyester fiber or a nylon fiber, but is preferably a polyester fiber having high refraction and high crimping fastness. Specific examples include, but are not limited to, aromatic polyester fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate, and aliphatic polyester fibers such as polylactic acid and polyglycolic acid. Among them, polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate, and polybutylene terephthalate fibers are preferable because they have excellent mechanical properties and durability and are robust in crimping. Further, polyethylene terephthalate fibers are preferable because they can obtain washing durability peculiar to polyester fibers.
ポリエチレンテレフタレートとしては、テレフタル酸を主たる酸成分とし、エチレングリコールを主たるグリコール成分とする、90モル%以上がエチレンテレフタレートの繰り返し単位からなるポリエステルを用いることができる。また、本発明の効果を阻害しない範囲内において、他のエステル結合を形成可能な共重合成分を含んでも良い。共重合可能な化合物としては、例えばイソフタル酸、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、ダイマ酸、セバシン酸、スルホン酸などのジカルボンサン類を例示できる。 As the polyethylene terephthalate, polyester having terephthalic acid as a main acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component, in which 90 mol% or more is a repeating unit of ethylene terephthalate, can be used. Further, a copolymerization component capable of forming another ester bond may be contained as long as the effect of the present invention is not impaired. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimaic acid, sebacic acid, and sulfonic acid.
本発明の仮撚糸としては、少なくとも最外層部と内層部の2層構成、すなわち芯鞘構成であれば、断面が丸型、三角、扁平、六角、L型、T型、W型、八葉型、ドッグボーン型などの多角形型、多様型など任意の形状を有するものを選択することができるが、仮撚の断面変形を受けても芯鞘構造が変化しにくく、かつ最外層部の厚みも安定していることで堅牢度が低下し難い、丸型が好ましい。さらに仮撚糸の扁平度は2.5以下であれば、高捲縮性能と防透け性能が両立しやすくなるので、好ましい。ただし、中空断面構造では仮撚において断面が潰れやすくなり、その結果、捲縮のバラツキが大きく、防透け性能にもバラツキが出やすくなるので、実質的に中実断面構造であることが好ましい。より好ましい仮撚糸の扁平度は1.0以上2.0以下である。 The false twisted yarn of the present invention has at least a two-layer structure of an outermost layer part and an inner layer part, that is, a core sheath structure, and has a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a flat cross section, a hexagonal cross section, an L type, a T type, a W type, and an eight leaf. It is possible to select a type having an arbitrary shape such as a type, a polygonal type such as a dogbone type, or a diverse type, but the core sheath structure does not easily change even if the cross section of the false twist is deformed, and the outermost layer portion. A round shape is preferable because the thickness is stable and the fastness does not easily decrease. Further, when the flatness of the false twisted yarn is 2.5 or less, it is easy to achieve both high crimping performance and see-through resistance, which is preferable. However, in the hollow cross-sectional structure, the cross-section is liable to be crushed in the false twist, and as a result, the variation in crimping is large and the variation in the see-through performance is liable to occur. Therefore, a substantially solid cross-sectional structure is preferable. A more preferable flatness of the false twisted yarn is 1.0 or more and 2.0 or less.
本発明の仮撚糸の総繊度は33〜500dtexであることが織物にハリ腰、防透け性能を付与する点で好ましい。このとき総繊度が33dtex未満であると、防透け性能を得にくくなるので、好ましくない。また総繊度が500dtexを超えると、アウター向け衣服としたときに厚すぎることになり、透けにくいのは当然となり、本発明の効果が得られず好ましくない。 The total fineness of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 33 to 500 dtex from the viewpoint of imparting firmness and see-through performance to the woven fabric. At this time, if the total fineness is less than 33 dtex, it is difficult to obtain see-through performance, which is not preferable. Further, when the total fineness exceeds 500 dtex, it becomes too thick when used as outer garments, and it is natural that it is difficult to see through, and the effect of the present invention cannot be obtained, which is not preferable.
また本発明の仮撚糸の単糸繊度は0.8〜10dtexであることが最低限のハリ腰を織編物に付与する点で好ましい。このとき単糸繊度が0.8dtex未満であると、繊維強度が極端に弱くなり、織編物の引裂強力や破裂強力が低下するので好ましくない。また、単糸繊度が10dtexを超えると、単糸が太すぎて、高捲縮が得にくくなるので、好ましくない。 Further, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is 0.8 to 10 dtex from the viewpoint of imparting the minimum elasticity to the woven or knitted fabric. At this time, if the single yarn fineness is less than 0.8 dtex, the fiber strength becomes extremely weak, and the tear strength and the burst strength of the woven and knitted fabric decrease, which is not preferable. Further, when the fineness of the single yarn exceeds 10 dtex, the single yarn is too thick and it becomes difficult to obtain high crimping, which is not preferable.
本発明の仮撚糸の捲縮率は25〜45%であることが好ましい。本発明の仮撚糸は内層部に酸化チタンを高含有しているので、繊維配向が低くなり、付与される捲縮は弱くなる傾向にあるが、捲縮率を25%以上有していれば、捲縮により単糸が開繊して、光散乱を効果的に行うことができ、防透け性能が向上するので、好ましい。一方、捲縮率が45%を超えると、捲縮のコイルが細かくなりすぎて、単糸が収束することで、防透け性能が低下する傾向にあるので、好ましくない。 The crimp ratio of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably 25 to 45%. Since the false twisted yarn of the present invention contains a high amount of titanium oxide in the inner layer portion, the fiber orientation tends to be low and the crimping applied tends to be weak, but if the crimping ratio is 25% or more, it tends to be weak. It is preferable because the single yarn is opened by crimping, light scattering can be effectively performed, and the see-through performance is improved. On the other hand, if the crimp ratio exceeds 45%, the crimp coil becomes too fine and the single yarn converges, which tends to reduce the see-through performance, which is not preferable.
また本発明の仮撚糸の強度は1.5〜3.5cN/dtexであることが耐久性と防透け性能が両立できる点で好ましい。強度が3.5cN/dtex以下であることで、繊維がフィブリル化しやすくなり、光散乱性が増加し、防透け性が向上するので好ましい。一方、強度が1.5cN/dtex未満であると、織編物の引裂強力や破裂強力が低下するので好ましくない。 Further, it is preferable that the strength of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is 1.5 to 3.5 cN / dtex from the viewpoint of achieving both durability and see-through performance. When the strength is 3.5 cN / dtex or less, the fibers are easily fibrillated, the light scattering property is increased, and the see-through property is improved, which is preferable. On the other hand, if the strength is less than 1.5 cN / dtex, the tear strength and the burst strength of the woven and knitted fabric are lowered, which is not preferable.
本発明の仮撚糸の交絡度は30〜180ヶ/mであることが重要である。湿潤状態の防透け性能向上には仮撚糸の単糸間の捲縮が開繊していることが非常に重要である。湿潤状態では織編物内空隙に水が介在することで、光透過性が大きくなり、防透け性が低下する。捲縮が開繊していれば、単繊維間空隙内に水が入り込むようになり、織編物内空隙には水が残らなくなるので、湿潤状態で防透け性能が低下し難くなる。捲縮をより大きく開繊させるためには、交絡付与が効果的である。本発明の仮撚糸においては、30ヶ/m以上の交絡度を付与することで、捲縮の一部に収束部は形成されるが、同時に開繊形態も固定することが出来るので、湿潤状態の防透け性能を向上させることができる。また交絡度が180ヶ/mを超えると、収束部が多くなりすぎて、収束部から光が透過しやすくなり、防透け性が低下する。好ましい交絡度は50〜150ヶ/mである。 It is important that the degree of entanglement of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is 30 to 180 pieces / m. It is very important that the crimps between the single yarns of the false twisted yarns are opened in order to improve the see-through performance in a wet state. In a wet state, water intervenes in the voids in the woven or knitted fabric, which increases the light transmission property and lowers the see-through property. If the crimps are open, water will enter the voids between the single fibers and no water will remain in the voids in the woven or knitted fabric, so that the see-through performance will not easily deteriorate in a wet state. Confounding is effective in order to open the crimps more greatly. In the false twisted yarn of the present invention, by imparting a degree of entanglement of 30 k / m or more, a convergent portion is formed in a part of the crimp, but at the same time, the open fiber form can be fixed, so that it is in a wet state. It is possible to improve the see-through performance of. Further, when the degree of entanglement exceeds 180 pieces / m, the number of converging portions becomes too large, and light is easily transmitted from the confounding portions, and the transparency resistance is lowered. The preferred degree of entanglement is 50-150 / m.
また、本発明の仮撚糸は捲縮を開繊した状態を維持するために、無撚り使いが好ましいが、撚糸加工を施しても構わない。好ましい撚数は50〜700T/mである。 Further, the false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferably used without twisting in order to maintain the crimped state, but may be twisted. The preferred twist is 50-700 T / m.
次に、本発明の仮撚糸及び織編物の製造方法について説明する。 Next, a method for manufacturing the false twisted yarn and the woven knitted fabric of the present invention will be described.
まず、本発明の仮撚糸の元糸となる原糸を紡糸するにあたっては、高配向未延伸糸を紡糸することが好ましい。捲縮率を向上させるためには非晶部が高配向状態であることが好ましく、好ましい紡糸速度は2800〜3500m/minである。一方、仮撚工程通過性を向上するためには、仮撚張力を調整させるべく、原糸伸度は高い方が好ましい。好ましい原糸伸度は125〜200%である。 First, when spinning the raw yarn which is the main yarn of the false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is preferable to spin the highly oriented undrawn yarn. In order to improve the crimp ratio, the amorphous portion is preferably in a highly oriented state, and the spinning speed is preferably 2800 to 3500 m / min. On the other hand, in order to improve the passability of the false twist process, it is preferable that the yarn elongation is high in order to adjust the false twist tension. The preferred yarn elongation is 125-200%.
続いて、高配向未延伸糸に対して仮撚加工を施す。本発明の仮撚条件としては任意の仮撚条件を選定できる。ツイスターにはスピンドル式、フリクションディスク式、ベルトニップ式いずれを用いても構わないが、高速で仮撚可能で繊維断面変形が比較的少ないフリクションディスク式が好ましい。仮撚温度は接触式ヒータの場合、170〜220℃であれば、強固な捲縮付与ができる点で好ましい。仮撚数においては、仮撚係数(仮撚数(T/M)×繊度(dtex)0.5)が27,000〜33,000となる範囲で設定することが、強固な捲縮付与ができる点で好ましい。 Subsequently, false twisting is performed on the highly oriented undrawn yarn. Any false twist condition can be selected as the false twist condition of the present invention. A spindle type, a friction disc type, or a belt nip type may be used for the twister, but a friction disc type that can be false twisted at high speed and has relatively little fiber cross-sectional deformation is preferable. In the case of a contact heater, the false twist temperature is preferably 170 to 220 ° C. in that strong crimping can be imparted. For the number of false twists, setting the false twist coefficient (number of false twists (T / M) x fineness (dtex) 0.5 ) in the range of 27,000 to 33,000 gives strong crimping. It is preferable in that it can be done.
また、仮撚後にインターレースノズルにより交絡を付与し、糸に開繊性を付与することができる。開繊性と収束性のバランスを考慮して、交絡圧は0.1〜0.4MPaであることが好ましい。 Further, after false twisting, entanglement can be imparted by an interlaced nozzle, and the yarn can be imparted with openness. The entanglement pressure is preferably 0.1 to 0.4 MPa in consideration of the balance between openness and convergence.
糸加工速度については早ければ生産性が高くなり好ましいが、安定加工性を考慮すると、100〜800(m/min)が好ましい。 As for the yarn processing speed, the higher the productivity, the higher the productivity, which is preferable, but considering the stable workability, 100 to 800 (m / min) is preferable.
このようにして製造した本発明の仮撚糸を、公知の製織方法、編成方法を用いて、織物や編物とする。織組織や編組織としては公知の如何なる組織をも適用できる。本発明において、織物と編物を総称して「織編物」という。本発明の織編物は組織あるいは密度になんら制約されることはない。湿潤状態での防透け性を向上させるには、本発明の仮撚糸を30%以上用いた織編物が好ましい。特にセルロース系のフィラメントまたはスパン糸は、湿潤状態での防透け性が低いが、例えば織編物の30質量%以上に本発明の仮撚糸を用いて交織または交編することで、湿潤状態での防透け性を向上することができる。 The false twisted yarn of the present invention produced in this manner is made into a woven fabric or a knitted fabric by using a known weaving method and knitting method. Any known structure can be applied as a woven structure or a knitted structure. In the present invention, woven fabrics and knitted fabrics are collectively referred to as "woven and knitted fabrics". The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is not restricted by the structure or the density. In order to improve the see-through property in a wet state, a woven or knitted fabric using 30% or more of the false twisted yarn of the present invention is preferable. In particular, cellulosic filaments or spun yarns have low see-through resistance in a wet state. It is possible to improve the transparency.
製織に用いる織機としては、一般に使用される普通織機、レピア、ウォータージェットルーム、エアージェットルーム等の機種が、特に限定されることなく採用できる。 As the loom used for weaving, commonly used models such as ordinary looms, rapiers, water jet rooms, and air jet rooms can be adopted without particular limitation.
また、製編の際は、丸編み機、トリコット機およびラッシェル機等市販の編機を使用することができる。本発明の仮撚糸を、編糸の少なくとも一部に使用する際は、各々の張力を適正化して製編を行う必要がある。編組織としては、天竺、スムース、ポンチ、リブおよびハーフ組織等任意の設計が可能となる。 Further, at the time of knitting, a commercially available knitting machine such as a circular knitting machine, a tricot machine and a Raschel machine can be used. When the false twisted yarn of the present invention is used for at least a part of the knitted yarn, it is necessary to optimize each tension for knitting. As the knitting structure, any design such as a tenjiku, smooth, punch, rib and half structure is possible.
また、染色加工工程は、一般のポリエステルやナイロンの仮撚糸による織編物の染色工程及び条件に準じて行うことができる。必要に応じて耐熱加工、防縮加工、防しわ加工、柔軟加工、減量加工などを施してもよい。 Further, the dyeing process can be performed according to the dyeing process and conditions of a woven or knitted fabric using a general polyester or nylon false twisted yarn. If necessary, heat-resistant processing, shrink-proof processing, wrinkle-proof processing, flexible processing, weight reduction processing and the like may be performed.
また本発明の織編物には、必要に応じて、少量の樹脂材、例えば柔軟剤、ラジカル捕捉剤、酸化防止剤、蛍光増白剤、抗菌剤、紫外線吸収剤、光安定剤、難燃剤、艶消し剤、耐電防止剤、硬仕上げ剤、形態安定剤、撥水剤、吸水剤等を含ませてもよい。 Further, in the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention, if necessary, a small amount of resin material such as a softener, a radical scavenger, an antioxidant, a fluorescent whitening agent, an antibacterial agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a light stabilizer, a flame retardant, etc. It may contain a matting agent, an electric resistance inhibitor, a hard finishing agent, a morphological stabilizer, a water repellent agent, a water absorbing agent and the like.
次に実施例を挙げて本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれら実施例に何ら限定されるものではない。なお、本発明における各種測定法は下記の通りである。 Next, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. The various measurement methods in the present invention are as follows.
1.繊度
枠周1.0mの検尺機を用いて100回分のカセを作製し、下記式に従って繊度を測定した。
・繊度(dtex)=100回分のカセ重量(g)×100
1. 1. Fineness A skein for 100 times was prepared using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.0 m, and the fineness was measured according to the following formula.
・ Fineness (dtex) = 100 times of skein weight (g) x 100
2.強度
JIS L1013:2010(化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方法) 8.5.1に準じてインストロン型引っ張り試験機を用いて、つかみ間隔20cm、引っ張り速度10cm/分の条件で測定し、算出した。
2. 2. Strength JIS L1013: 2010 (Chemical fiber filament yarn test method) Measured and calculated under the conditions of a grip interval of 20 cm and a tensile speed of 10 cm / min using an Instron type tensile tester according to 8.5.1.
3.交絡度
交絡度は、0.1cN/dtexの張力下における1m当たりの交絡部の数であり、糸に0.02cN/dtexの張力下で非交絡部にピンを刺し、糸1mにわたり0.1cN/dtexの張力でピンを糸の長手方向の上下に移動せしめ、抵抗なく移動した部分を非交絡部として移動した距離を記録し、ピンが止まる部分を交絡部とした。この作業を30回繰り返し、その非交絡部の距離の平均値から1m当たりの交絡度を計算した。
3. 3. Degree of entanglement Degree of entanglement is the number of entangled parts per 1 m under tension of 0.1 cN / dtex. The pin was moved up and down in the longitudinal direction of the thread by the tension of / dtex, the distance moved was recorded as the non-entangled portion, and the portion where the pin stopped was defined as the entangled portion. This work was repeated 30 times, and the degree of entanglement per 1 m was calculated from the average value of the distances of the non-entangled portions.
4.捲縮率
周長0.8mの検尺機に、90mg/dtexの張力下で糸を10回巻回してカセ取りした後、2cm以下の棒につり下げ、約24時間放置する。このカセをガーゼにくるみ、無緊張状態下で90℃×20分間熱水処理した後、2cm以下の棒につり下げ約12時間放置する。放置後のカセの一端をフックにかけ他端に初荷重と測定荷重をかけ水中に垂下し2分間放置する。このときの初荷重(g)=1.8mg/dtex、測定荷重(g)=90mg/dtex、水温=20±2℃である。放置したカセの内側の長さを測り、Lとする。さらに、測定荷重を除き初荷重だけにした状態で2分間放置し、放置したカセの内側の長さを測り、L1とする。次式により、捲縮率を求めた。この作業を5回繰り返し、平均値により求めた。
捲縮率(%)={(L−L1)/L}×100
4. Curing rate In a measuring machine with a circumference of 0.8 m, the thread is wound 10 times under a tension of 90 mg / dtex to remove the skein, then hung on a rod of 2 cm or less and left for about 24 hours. Wrap this skein in gauze, treat it with hot water at 90 ° C for 20 minutes under no tension, hang it on a stick of 2 cm or less, and leave it for about 12 hours. Hook one end of the skein after leaving it, apply the initial load and the measured load to the other end, hang it in the water, and leave it for 2 minutes. At this time, the initial load (g) = 1.8 mg / dtex, the measured load (g) = 90 mg / dtex, and the water temperature = 20 ± 2 ° C. Measure the inner length of the left-over skein and let it be L. Further, it is left for 2 minutes with only the initial load excluding the measured load, and the length inside the left skein is measured and used as L1. The crimp ratio was calculated by the following equation. This work was repeated 5 times and calculated by the average value.
Crisp rate (%) = {(L-L1) / L} x 100
5.防透け性
JIS L1923:2017 「繊維製品の防透け性評価方法」A法(視感法)に基づき、乾燥状態と湿潤状態の防透け性を求めた。4級以上を合格基準とする。
5. See-through property JIS L1923: 2017 "See-through property evaluation method for textile products" Based on the method A (visual method), the see-through property in a dry state and a wet state was obtained. Level 4 or above is the acceptance standard.
6.耐光堅牢度
染色していない織編物を用いて、フェードメーター60時間照射による変退色(ΔE)をミノルタ製CM−3600dを用いて測定した。また、光源はD65、視野角は2°とした。0.5以下を合格基準とする。
6. Light fastness Using an undyed woven or knitted fabric, discoloration (ΔE) due to irradiation with a fade meter for 60 hours was measured using CM-3600d manufactured by Minolta. The light source was D65 and the viewing angle was 2 °. The acceptance criteria are 0.5 or less.
7.工程通過性
仮撚時の操業性を評価実施し(108錘・1日間)、糸切れ率を下記基準で判定を行った。◎および○を合格基準とする。
・◎:糸切れ率が3%未満
・○:糸切れ率が3%以上5%未満
・△:糸切れ率が5%以上10%未満
・×:糸切れ率が10%以上
8.扁平度
仮撚糸を繊維軸方向に5箇所サンプリングし、おのおの断面顕微鏡写真を撮影した。撮影された全繊維断面について、最も長い部位(長軸)の長さ(A)と、該長軸に直交する短軸の最大長さ(B)との比A/Bを測定し、全測定値の平均値で表した。
7. Process passability The operability during false twisting was evaluated (108 weights for 1 day), and the yarn breakage rate was judged according to the following criteria. ◎ and ○ are the acceptance criteria.
・ ◎: Thread break rate is less than 3% ・ ○: Thread break rate is 3% or more and less than 5% ・ △: Thread break rate is 5% or more and less than 10% ・ ×: Thread break rate is 10% or more 8. Flatness False twisted yarns were sampled at 5 points in the fiber axis direction, and cross-sectional micrographs were taken for each. For the photographed total fiber cross section, the ratio A / B of the length (A) of the longest part (major axis) and the maximum length (B) of the short axis orthogonal to the long axis is measured, and the total measurement is performed. Expressed as the average value.
9.酸化チタン含有率
JIS R9301−3−7:1999:「化学分析法−7:酸化チタンの定量法(ジアンチピリルメタン吸光光度法(A 法))に基づき算出する。
9. Titanium oxide content JIS R9301-3-7: 1999: Calculated based on "Chemical analysis method-7: Titanium oxide quantification method (diantipyrylmethane absorptiometry (A method)).
<実施例1>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.3MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.5,強度:2.5cN/dtex、捲縮率:27%、交絡度:155ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Example 1>
A round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.3 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.5, strength: 2.5 cN / dtex, crimp ratio : 27%, entanglement degree: 155 pieces / m processed yarn was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も大変良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も大変良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had very good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had very good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<実施例2>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを1.8質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを20質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、ピン仮撚機(TH312:愛機製作所製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:100m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:220℃、仮撚係数:33,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.1MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:2.3,強度:2.2cN/dtex、捲縮率:43%、交絡度:39ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが比較的少なく、良好であった。
<Example 2>
A polyethylene terephthalate having a round cross section in which an outermost layer containing 1.8% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 20% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is used at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a pin false twisting machine (TH312: manufactured by Aiki Seisakusho), the above-mentioned highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 100 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 220. False twisting is performed at ° C. and false twist coefficient: 33,000, and then interlacing is performed at entanglement pressure: 0.1 MPa, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 2.3, strength: 2.2 cN / dtex, crimping. Processed yarns having a coefficient of 43% and an entanglement degree of 39 pieces / m were obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was good with relatively few yarn breakages.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<実施例3>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とアナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最内層とを、20:50:30の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度173%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.2MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.6,強度:3.2cN/dtex、捲縮率:29%、交絡度:90ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Example 3>
The outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide, the inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide, and the innermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide were formed at 20:50:30. Polyethylene terephthalate having a round cross section arranged by mass ratio was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m / min) to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 173%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.2 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.6, strength: 3.2 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn having a ratio of 29% and a degree of entanglement of 90 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も大変良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も大変良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had very good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had very good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<実施例4>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを20質量%含有する内層とアナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最内層とを、20:30:50の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度173%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.2MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.6,強度:3.3cN/dtex、捲縮率:30%、交絡度:75ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Example 4>
The outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide, the inner layer containing 20% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide, and the innermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide were formed at 20:30:50. Polyethylene terephthalate having a round cross section arranged by mass ratio was spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m / min) to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 173%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.2 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.6, strength: 3.3 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn having a ratio of 30% and a degree of entanglement: 75 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<実施例5>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを12質量%含有する内層とを30:70の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:180℃、仮撚係数:27,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.2MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.4,強度:2.8cN/dtex、捲縮率:20%、交絡度:82ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Example 5>
A round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 12% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged at a mass ratio of 30:70 is used at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 180 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 27,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.2 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.4, strength: 2.8 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn of 20% and entanglement degree: 82 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も大変良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had very good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<実施例6>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のナイロン6を紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度100dtex、36フィラメント、伸度65%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.2倍、ヒータ温度:180℃、仮撚係数:30,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.25MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.4,強度:2.9cN/dtex、捲縮率:35%、交絡度:103ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Example 6>
Nylon 6 with a round cross section in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 100 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 65%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, processing speed: 500 m / min, drawing ratio: 1.2 times, heater temperature: 180 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 30,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.25 MPa, interlacing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.4, strength: 2.9 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn having a ratio of 35% and a degree of entanglement: 103 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、110℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 110 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も大変良好であり、さらに耐光堅牢度も良好であり、防透けアウター衣料として好適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had very good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, and also had good light fastness, and was suitable as a see-through outer garment.
<比較例1>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とアナターゼ型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.3MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.5,強度:2.4cN/dtex、捲縮率:26%、交絡度:142ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Comparative Example 1>
A polyethylene terephthalate having a round cross section in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is used at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.3 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.5, strength: 2.4 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn having a ratio of 26% and a degree of entanglement: 142 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も良好であったが、耐光での変褪色が大きく、アウター衣料として不適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, but its discoloration due to light resistance was large, and it was not suitable as outer clothing.
<比較例2>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを2.3質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.3MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.5,強度:2.2cN/dtex、捲縮率:27%、交絡度:133ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが多く、生産が難しいものであった。
<Comparative Example 2>
A polyethylene terephthalate having a round cross section in which an outermost layer containing 2.3% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged at a mass ratio of 20:80 is used at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.3 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.5, strength: 2.2 cN / dtex, crimp ratio : 27%, entanglement degree: 133 k / m processed yarn was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was difficult to produce due to many yarn breakages.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も大変良好であったが、耐光での変褪色が少し目立ち、アウター衣料として好適ではなかった。 The obtained woven fabric had very good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, but the discoloration due to light resistance was a little noticeable, and it was not suitable as outer clothing.
<比較例3>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.05MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.5,強度:2.5cN/dtex、捲縮率:30%、交絡度:20ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Comparative Example 3>
A round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.05 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.5, strength: 2.5 cN / dtex, crimping rate A processed yarn having a ratio of 30% and a degree of entanglement of 20 pieces / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態こそ良好であったが、湿潤状態の防透け性は低下し、防透けアウター衣料は不適であった。 The obtained woven fabric was good in a dry state, but the see-through property in a wet state was lowered, and the see-through outer garment was unsuitable.
<比較例4>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを15質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:210℃、仮撚係数:31,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.4MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:1.6、強度:2.3cN/dtex、捲縮率:22%、交絡度:193ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが少なく、大変良好であった。
<Comparative Example 4>
A round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 15% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged in a mass ratio of 20:80 is spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 210 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 31,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.4 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 1.6, strength: 2.3 cN / dtex, crimp ratio : 22%, entanglement degree: 193 pieces / m processed yarn was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very good with little yarn breakage.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態・湿潤状態共に防透け性は低く、防透けアウター衣料として不適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had low see-through resistance in both dry and wet states, and was unsuitable as a see-through outer garment.
<比較例5>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを10質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した丸断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度175%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、ピン仮撚機(TH312:愛機製作所製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:100m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:220℃、仮撚係数:34,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.1MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:2.5、強度:3.8cN/dtex、捲縮率:47%、交絡度:39ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが比較的少なく、良好であった。
<Comparative Example 5>
A round cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 10% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged at a mass ratio of 20:80 is spun at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 175%. Then, using a pin false twisting machine (TH312: manufactured by Aiki Seisakusho), the above-mentioned highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 100 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 220. False twisting is performed at ° C. and false twist coefficient: 34,000, and then interlacing is performed at entanglement pressure: 0.1 MPa, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 2.5, strength: 3.8 cN / dtex, crimping. Processed yarns having a coefficient of 47% and an entanglement degree of 39 pieces / m were obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was good with relatively few yarn breakages.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態・湿潤状態共に防透け性は低く、防透けアウター衣料として不適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had low see-through resistance in both dry and wet states, and was unsuitable as a see-through outer garment.
<比較例6>
アナターゼ型酸化チタンを0.7質量%含有する最外層とルチル型酸化チタンを35質量%含有する内層とを20:80の質量比率で配した扁平断面のポリエチレンテレフタレートを紡速3、000(m/min)で紡糸し、繊度140dtex、36フィラメント、伸度173%の高配向未延伸糸を得た。そして、フリクション仮撚機(ATF12:TMTマシナリー製)を用いて上記高配向未延伸糸をフィードローラから給糸し、加工速度:500m/min、延伸倍率:1.7倍、ヒータ温度:170℃、仮撚係数:26,000で仮撚を行い、その後、交絡圧:0.2MPaでインターレース加工を行い、繊度:84dtex、扁平度:2.9,強度:1.4cN/dtex、捲縮率:14%、交絡度:78ケ/mの加工糸を得た。その際の仮撚工程通過性は糸切れが大変多く、生産が大変難しいものであった。
<Comparative Example 6>
A flat cross-section polyethylene terephthalate in which an outermost layer containing 0.7% by mass of anatase-type titanium oxide and an inner layer containing 35% by mass of rutile-type titanium oxide are arranged at a mass ratio of 20:80 is used at a spinning speed of 3,000 (m). / Min) was spun to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 140 dtex, 36 filaments and an elongation of 173%. Then, using a friction false twisting machine (ATF12: manufactured by TMT Machinery), the highly oriented undrawn yarn is fed from a feed roller, and the processing speed is 500 m / min, the draw ratio is 1.7 times, and the heater temperature is 170 ° C. , False twist coefficient: 26,000, false twisting, then entanglement pressure: 0.2 MPa, interlacing processing, fineness: 84 dtex, flatness: 2.9, strength: 1.4 cN / dtex, crimp ratio A processed yarn having a ratio of 14% and a degree of entanglement: 78 / m was obtained. At that time, the passability of the false twisting process was very difficult to produce due to the large number of yarn breakages.
その後、上記糸を経糸・緯糸に用いて、エアージェット織機で平織物に製織を行い、次に、得られた製織生地を98℃拡布連続精練、120℃液流リラックス、160℃仕上げセットを施し、加工密度(経糸:130本/2.54cm、緯糸:110本/2.54cm)の製品とした。 After that, the above yarns are used as warp and weft yarns to weave a plain woven fabric with an air jet loom, and then the obtained woven fabric is spread and continuously scoured at 98 ° C, relaxed at 120 ° C, and finished at 160 ° C. , The product had a processing density (warp: 130 threads / 2.54 cm, weft threads: 110 threads / 2.54 cm).
得られた織物は乾燥状態だけでなく、湿潤状態の防透け性も良好であったが、耐光での変褪色が大きく、アウター衣料として不適であった。 The obtained woven fabric had good see-through resistance not only in a dry state but also in a wet state, but its discoloration due to light resistance was large, and it was not suitable as outer clothing.
本発明によれば、湿潤状態の防透け性及び堅牢度、さらに製造工程通過性に優れた仮撚糸及び織編物を提供することができる。その結果、かかる織物は、防透け性のみならず、遮熱性やUVカット性にも優れ、カジュアル衣料、フォーマル衣料、ユニフォーム衣料、スポーツ衣料等のアウター用途に好適に利用できる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a false plyed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric having excellent see-through resistance and fastness in a wet state and excellent passability in a manufacturing process. As a result, such a woven fabric is excellent not only in transparency but also in heat shielding property and UV blocking property, and can be suitably used for outer applications such as casual clothing, formal clothing, uniform clothing, and sports clothing.
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