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JP2010053490A - Method for knitting tubular knitted fabric and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Method for knitting tubular knitted fabric and knitted fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2010053490A
JP2010053490A JP2008221585A JP2008221585A JP2010053490A JP 2010053490 A JP2010053490 A JP 2010053490A JP 2008221585 A JP2008221585 A JP 2008221585A JP 2008221585 A JP2008221585 A JP 2008221585A JP 2010053490 A JP2010053490 A JP 2010053490A
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knitting
yarn
needle
stitch
needle bed
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Tomoaki Nakayama
知明 中山
Sadatoshi Kakimoto
定利 垣本
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a knitting method for reducing visibility of holes formed by intermeshing of knitting yarn in the case of joining front and back knitted fabrics of a tubular knitted fabric knitted by using different knitting yarns in front and back needle beds. <P>SOLUTION: A tubular knitted fabric is formed by interlacing front and back knitting yarns at both ends of a stitch row formed by feeding a yarn from a back-side yarn feeding port positioned at the deep part (back part) of a flat knitting frame to a front needle bed and feeding a yarn from a yarn feeding port positioned at the front side to a back needle bed. The knitting method includes a step of using one yarn feeding port and knitting the stitch row of a fabric width using the needle bed allotted to the yarn feeding port, and a step of moving the other yarn feeding port in the direction same as the movement of the former yarn feeding port and knitting a stitch row with a needle bed opposite to the needle bed knitted by the former yarn feeding port, transferring a loop at an end of a moving direction of a yarn feeding port to the opposite needle bed before knitting the stitch row to miss the empty needle and returning the transferred stitch after knitting the stitch row. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2010,JPO&INPIT

Description

本発明は、横編機の前後の針床に別々の給糸口を用い、編成される各編地の端部を編糸の交絡により形成される筒状編地の編成方法とその編地に関する。   The present invention relates to a knitting method of a tubular knitted fabric in which ends of each knitted fabric to be knitted are formed by entanglement of knitting yarns using separate yarn feeders on the front and back needle beds of a flat knitting machine, and the knitted fabric. .

従来、前後針床に別々の給糸口を用いて編成される各編地を使い、その編地の端部で前後を繋げるには、特許文献1に示されているように、給糸口と編成する針床の位置関係と、編成順を考慮することで編糸を交絡させる方法がある。   Conventionally, using each knitted fabric knitted using separate yarn feeders on the front and back needle beds, and connecting the front and back at the ends of the knitted fabric, as shown in Patent Document 1, the yarn feeder and the knitted fabric There is a method in which the knitting yarn is entangled by considering the positional relationship of the needle bed to be performed and the knitting order.

特開平10-72746号公報JP 10-72746 A

しかしながら、特許文献1の編成方法で前後の編地を繋げて筒状編地を形成する場合、2コース毎に編糸が交絡されることで、毎コース隣接する編目と繋がっている部分に対し、隣りの編目と繋がらないコースで他の編目間より少し大きい孔が生じ、その部分が目立ってしまう。   However, when the front and rear knitted fabrics are connected by the knitting method of Patent Document 1 to form a tubular knitted fabric, the knitting yarn is entangled every two courses, so that the portion connected to the stitches adjacent to each course is connected. In a course that does not connect to the adjacent stitch, a hole that is slightly larger than that between other stitches is formed, and that portion becomes conspicuous.

本発明の目的は、前後針床において別々の編糸で編成する筒状編地の前後編地を繋げる際に、孔が目立たないようにする編成方法を提供することである。   An object of the present invention is to provide a knitting method in which holes are not conspicuous when connecting front and rear knitted fabrics of cylindrical knitted fabrics knitted with different knitting yarns on the front and rear needle beds.

本発明は、少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用い、前後の針床に対して別々の給糸口を用いて編成を行う際に、横編機奥側(後方)に位置する奥側給糸口で前針床の針に、その手前側 (前方)に位置する手前側給糸口で後針床の針に給糸して形成されるそれぞれの編目列の両端部で、前後の編糸部分が交絡して形成される筒状編地の編成方法であって、以下のステップを含むことを特徴とする。
(1)いずれか一方の給糸口を用い、その給糸口に割り当てられた針床で編目列の編成を編地幅分行うステップ、
(2)他方の給糸口を、一方の給糸口と同じ方向に移動し、一方の給糸口で編成した針床に対向する針床で編目列の編成を行う際に、給糸口を進める方向の端部の編目を、編目列の編成前に対向する針床に目移してその空針をミスし、編目列の編成後に、目移しした編目の移し戻しを行うステップ。
The present invention uses a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, and when knitting using separate yarn feeders for the front and rear needle beds, the back located on the back side (back) of the flat knitting machine Front and back knitting at both ends of each stitch row formed by feeding the needle on the front needle bed with the side yarn feeder and feeding the needle on the rear needle bed with the front yarn feeder located on the front side (front) A method for knitting a tubular knitted fabric formed by entanglement of yarn portions, which includes the following steps.
(1) A step of performing knitting of a stitch row by a knitted fabric width with a needle bed assigned to the yarn feeder using any one yarn feeder;
(2) The other yarn feeder is moved in the same direction as the one yarn feeder, and the yarn feeder is advanced when the stitch row is knitted on the needle bed facing the needle bed knitted on the one yarn feeder. A step of transferring the stitches at the end to the opposite needle bed before knitting the stitch row, making a mistake in the empty needle, and transferring the transferred stitches after knitting the stitch row.

また本発明は、少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用いて、前後の針床に対して別々の給糸口で給糸して編成される編目列の両端部で、編糸部分が交絡して形成される筒状編地であって、編目列が繋がる境界部において編目列の端部の編目の前にミス糸が渡ることを特徴とする。   Further, the present invention provides a knitting yarn portion at both ends of a stitch row that is knitted by feeding yarns at separate yarn feeders to the front and back needle beds using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds. A tubular knitted fabric formed by entanglement, wherein a miss yarn crosses before a stitch at an end of the stitch row at a boundary portion where the stitch row is connected.

本発明によれば、前後針床で別々の編糸を編成して形成される前後の編地を繋げる際に、編目列の端部の編目をミスすることで、渡り糸を設け、前後の編糸が交絡する位置を前後針床の略中間位置から一方の編目側に位置をずらし、渡り糸の内側に編目を配して組織を表現することで、生じる孔が目立たなくなる。従来のように、境界部で隣りの編目と繋がらない部分でのみ孔が大きくなり目立つのではなく、境界部自体が組織柄として成立しており、編糸の交絡する位置は目立たない位置にずれ、ミスの渡り糸が配置され、孔は目立たない。   According to the present invention, when connecting the front and rear knitted fabrics formed by knitting separate knitting yarns on the front and back needle beds, the transition yarns are provided by missing the stitches at the ends of the stitch rows, By shifting the position where the knitting yarn is entangled from the substantially middle position of the front and back needle beds to one stitch side and arranging the stitch inside the crossover yarn to express the structure, the generated hole becomes inconspicuous. Unlike the conventional case, the hole does not become large and stands out only at the part that is not connected to the adjacent stitch at the boundary part, but the boundary part itself is formed as a textured pattern, and the entanglement position of the knitting yarn is shifted to an inconspicuous position. , Miss transition yarns are placed and the holes are not noticeable.

次に本発明の実施例を図面に基づいて説明する。なお以下に示す実施例では、左右方向に延び、対向する二対の針床を有し、少なくとも目移し、ニット、目移しが同一コースで行うことが可能な、キャリッジに3カムシステムを有する4枚ベッドの横編機を用いる。   Next, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. In the following embodiment, the carriage has two pairs of needle beds that extend in the left-right direction, and has a three-cam system in the carriage that can perform at least transfer, knit, and transfer on the same course. A flatbed flat knitting machine is used.

図1は、本発明により実施される筒状編地1を形成する工程を示す図である。図中、左側のSと数字は、編成の手順(編成ステップ)を示す。但し、一つの編成ステップは、必ずしも一つの編成コース(キャリッジ移動)に対応するのではなく、複数の編成コースを表現する場合も、またその逆の複数の編成ステップが、一つの編成コースを表現する場合もある。針床は、前後にそれぞれ二段ずつ設けられ、後針床の下段をBD、上段をBU、前針床の上段をFU、下段をFDで、それぞれ示す。そして、英大文字A,B,C,・・・,Gは、後針床の編針を示し、英小文字a,b,c,・・・,gは、前針床の編針を示す。また、▼は図1にも示すように、横編機に備えられた手前側に位置する手前側給糸口2、▽は手前側給糸口2の奥側に位置する奥側給糸口3を示し、●は新たに編成する編目、○は編針に係止する編目を示す。上下方向の矢印は、その位置の編針に係止していた編目を、目移しで矢印の示す方向に移動させていることを示し、右側に示される左右方向の矢印は、キャリッジの進行方向を示し、点線で示す矢印はキャリッジの移動のみを示している。各ステップにおいては便宜上、前後針床の編針を示す大小の英文字は適宜省略してあり、その編針の数も説明の便宜上少なく表示している。   FIG. 1 is a diagram showing a process of forming a tubular knitted fabric 1 carried out according to the present invention. In the figure, S and a number on the left side indicate a knitting procedure (knitting step). However, one knitting step does not necessarily correspond to one knitting course (carriage movement), and when expressing a plurality of knitting courses, and vice versa, a plurality of knitting steps express one knitting course. There is also a case. The needle bed is provided in two stages on the front and rear sides, and the lower stage of the rear needle bed is indicated by BD, the upper stage is indicated by BU, the upper stage of the front needle bed is indicated by FU, and the lower stage is indicated by FD. Uppercase letters A, B, C,..., G indicate knitting needles on the rear needle bed, and lowercase letters a, b, c,. Further, as shown in FIG. 1, ▼ indicates the near-side yarn feeder 2 located on the near side provided in the flat knitting machine, and ▽ indicates the far-side yarn feeder 3 located on the far side of the near-side yarn feeder 2. , ● indicates a stitch to be newly knitted, and ○ indicates a stitch locked to the knitting needle. The up and down arrows indicate that the stitch locked to the knitting needle at that position is moved in the direction indicated by the transfer, and the left and right arrows on the right side indicate the direction of travel of the carriage. The arrows indicated by dotted lines indicate only the movement of the carriage. In each step, for the sake of convenience, large and small English letters indicating the knitting needles of the front and rear needle beds are omitted as appropriate, and the number of knitting needles is also displayed for convenience of explanation.

S1では、横編機に備えられた奥側に位置する奥側給糸口3を用い、手前側の針床となるFDの編針a,b,c,d,e,f,gで右方向に向けてニットし、筒状編地1の半分の編目列を前編地4として形成し、続いてキャリッジの移動のみ左方向に向けて行う。S2では、手前側給糸口2が次編成で進行する方向の後編地5の端部となるBDの編針Gに係止する編目を対向するFUの編針gに目移しする。S3では、奥側給糸口3の手前側に位置する手前側給糸口2を用い、奥側の針床となるBDの編針A,B,C,D,E,Fでニットし、筒状編地1のさらに半分の編目列を後編地5として形成する。この時、BDの編針Gに対してミスすることで編糸が渡り、各給糸口2,3と編目に繋がる編糸は、手前側給糸口2に繋がる編糸が上側の状態で上下に重なっている。   In S1, the back yarn feeder 3 located on the back side provided in the flat knitting machine is used, and the FD knitting needles a, b, c, d, e, f, and g serving as the front needle bed are moved rightward. The knit fabric is knitted, and a half stitch row of the tubular knitted fabric 1 is formed as the front knitted fabric 4, and then only the carriage is moved leftward. In S <b> 2, the front yarn feeder 2 is transferred to the knitting needle g of the FU that opposes the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle G of the BD that is the end of the rear knitted fabric 5 in the direction in which the next knitting proceeds. In S3, the front yarn feeder 2 located on the front side of the back yarn feeder 3 is used, and the knitting needles A, B, C, D, E, and F serving as the back needle bed are knitted, and cylindrical knitting A further half stitch row of the ground 1 is formed as the back knitted fabric 5. At this time, a knitting yarn crosses by making a mistake with respect to the knitting needle G of the BD, and the knitting yarn connected to the yarn feeders 2 and 3 and the stitch overlaps with the knitting yarn connected to the front yarn feeder 2 in the upper and lower directions. ing.

S4では、BDの編針GからFUの編針gに目移ししていた編目を、BDの編針Gに移し戻す。BDの編針Fから手前側給糸口2に繋がる渡り糸が、編針Gに係止する編目の外側に位置する。また、S2〜S4のステップは、3つのカムシステムを使いキャリッジが左から右に向かう同一コースで行う。   In S4, the stitch transferred from the knitting needle G of the BD to the knitting needle g of the FU is transferred back to the knitting needle G of the BD. The transition yarn connected from the knitting needle F of the BD to the front side yarn feeder 2 is positioned outside the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle G. Further, the steps S2 to S4 are performed in the same course in which the carriage moves from left to right using three cam systems.

S5では、奥側給糸口3により、FDの編針g,f,e,d,c,b,aで左方向に向けて前編地4をニットし、下側になって重なっていた編糸が手前側給糸口2に繋がる編糸を挟んだ状態となる。その後、キャリッジの移動のみ右方向に向けて行う。   In S5, the front knitted fabric 4 is knitted in the left direction with the FD knitting needles g, f, e, d, c, b, a by the back side yarn feeder 3, and the knitting yarn that has overlapped on the lower side is knitted. The knitting yarn connected to the near-side yarn feeder 2 is sandwiched. Thereafter, only the carriage is moved rightward.

S6では、手前側給糸口2が次編成で進行する方向の後編地5の端部となるBDの編針Aに係止する編目を対向するFUの編針aに目移しする。S7では、手前側給糸口2により、BDの編針G,F,E,D,C,Bで後編地5としてニットし、BDの編針Aをミスしている。この編成の際、S3で示すように、手前側給糸口2に繋がる起点となる編目は編針Gではなく編針Fに係止する編目となり、編糸の渡りがその編目の外側に位置する為に、編糸が交絡するポイント6は後編地5の編成の際にBD側に引き寄せられ、前後針床の中間位置から編針Gの編目に接するように近づき目立ちにくくなる。S8では、FUの編針aに係止する編目をBDの編針Aに移し戻し、BDの編針Bから手前側給糸口2に繋がる渡り糸が、編針Aに係止する編目の外側に位置する。S6〜S8のステップもまた、3つのカムシステムを使いキャリッジが右から左に向かう同一コースで行う。この場合も各給糸口2,3と編目に繋がる編糸は上下に重なり、奥側給糸口3に繋がる渡り糸が下側となっている。   In S6, the front yarn feeder 2 is transferred to the knitting needle a of the FU facing the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle A of the BD, which is the end of the rear knitted fabric 5 in the direction in which the next knitting proceeds. In S7, the knitting needles G, F, E, D, C, and B of the BD are knitted as the back knitted fabric 5 by the front yarn feeder 2, and the knitting needle A of the BD is missed. At the time of this knitting, as shown by S3, the stitch that becomes the starting point connected to the front yarn feeder 2 is not the knitting needle G but the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle F, and the transition of the knitting yarn is located outside the stitch. When the rear knitted fabric 5 is knitted, the point 6 where the knitting yarn is entangled is attracted to the BD side, approaching the stitches of the knitting needle G from the middle position of the front and back needle beds and becoming less conspicuous. In S8, the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle a of the FU is transferred back to the knitting needle A of the BD, and the transition yarn that is connected from the knitting needle B of the BD to the front yarn feeder 2 is positioned outside the stitch that is locked to the knitting needle A. Steps S6 to S8 are also performed on the same course in which the carriage moves from right to left using three cam systems. Also in this case, the knitting yarns connected to the yarn feeders 2 and 3 and the stitches overlap each other, and the transition yarn connected to the back yarn feeder 3 is on the lower side.

S9では、奥側給糸口3により、FDの編針a,b,c,d,e,f,gで右方向に向けてニットし、下側になって重なっていた編糸が手前側給糸口2に繋がる編糸を挟んだ状態となる。その後、キャリッジの移動のみ左方向に向けて行っている。   In S9, the back side yarn feeder 3 knits the right side with the FD knitting needles a, b, c, d, e, f, and g, and the knitting yarn overlapped on the lower side is the front side yarn feeder. 2 is put between the knitting yarns connected to 2. Thereafter, only the carriage is moved leftward.

S10は、さらにS2〜S4のステップを繰り返した状態を示し、前後針床で別々の編糸を編成して形成される前後の編地の両側を繋げたことを示している(筒状編地1)。編糸を交絡するポイント7においても、交絡するポイント6と同じ理由から、後編地5の編成の際にBD側に引き寄せられ、前後針床の中間位置から編針Aの編目に接するように近づき目立ちにくくなる。交絡するポイント6,7がBD側に引き寄せられ、編針A,Gに係止する編目の外側で交互にミスすることで渡り糸が編目の前面に現れ、交絡するポイント6,7はそれらの編目に近い位置でその渡り糸に隠れ、ほとんど目立たなくなり、組織柄としての付加価値も加わる。 S10 indicates a state in which the steps of S2 to S4 are further repeated, and indicates that both sides of the front and rear knitted fabrics formed by knitting different knitting yarns on the front and back needle beds are connected (cylindrical knitted fabric). 1). At the point 7 where the knitting yarn is entangled, for the same reason as the point 6 where the knitting yarn is entangled, the knitting yarn is drawn to the BD side during the knitting of the rear knitted fabric 5 and approaches the stitch of the knitting needle A from the middle position of the front and back needle beds. It becomes difficult. The interlaced points 6 and 7 are drawn toward the BD side, and the cross yarns appear on the front surface of the stitches by alternately making mistakes outside the stitches locked to the knitting needles A and G. The interlaced points 6 and 7 are those stitches. Hidden by the crossover thread at a position close to, becomes almost inconspicuous, and adds value as a tissue pattern.

なお、本実施例では、前編地4と後編地5の境界を組織柄として表現でき、ノースリーブなどの身頃などに適用できる。また、天竺にて筒状編地を編成しているが、組織を構成しても良い。また、2枚ベッドの編機においても、1本置きの編針を使って編成する所謂針抜き編成が可能となる。   In this embodiment, the boundary between the front knitted fabric 4 and the rear knitted fabric 5 can be expressed as a tissue pattern, and can be applied to a body such as a sleeveless body. Moreover, although the tubular knitted fabric is knitted with the tengu, a structure may be formed. Also in a two-bed knitting machine, so-called needle punching knitting can be performed using every other knitting needle.

本実施例での前後別々の給糸口で給糸して編成される編目列の両端部で、編糸部分が交絡して形成される筒状編地の編成図である。FIG. 3 is a knitting diagram of a cylindrical knitted fabric formed by entanglement of knitting yarn portions at both ends of a stitch row knitted by knitting with separate yarn feeders in the front and rear in the present embodiment.

符号の説明Explanation of symbols

1 筒状編地
2 手前側給糸口
3 奥側給糸口
4 前編地
5 後編地
6、7 交絡するポイント
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Tubular knitted fabric 2 Front side yarn feeder 3 Back side yarn feeder 4 Front knitted fabric
5 Back knitted fabric 6, 7 Points to be entangled

Claims (2)

少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用い、前後の針床に対して別々の給糸口で給糸して編成を行う際に、横編機奥側(後方)に位置する奥側給糸口で前針床の針に、その手前側(前方)に位置する手前側給糸口で後針床の針に給糸して形成されるそれぞれの編目列の両端部で、前後の編糸部分が交絡して形成される筒状編地の編成方法であって、以下のステップを含むことを特徴とする編成方法;
(1)いずれか一方の給糸口を用い、その給糸口に割り当てられた針床で編目列の編成を編地幅分行うステップ、
(2)他方の給糸口を、一方の給糸口と同じ方向に移動し、一方の給糸口で編成した針床に対向する針床で編目列の編成を行う際に、給糸口を進める方向の端部の編目を、編目列の編成前に対向する針床に目移してその空針をミスし、編目列の編成後に、目移しした編目の移し戻しを行うステップ。
When using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds and knitting with separate yarn feeders for the front and back needle beds, the back side feed located on the back side (back) of the flat knitting machine The front and back knitting yarn portions at both ends of each stitch row formed by feeding the needle on the front needle bed with the yarn mouth and the needle on the rear needle bed with the front yarn feeder located on the front side (front) A knitting method of a tubular knitted fabric formed by entanglement, comprising the following steps;
(1) A step of performing knitting of a stitch row by a knitted fabric width with a needle bed assigned to the yarn feeder using any one yarn feeder;
(2) The other yarn feeder is moved in the same direction as the one yarn feeder, and the yarn feeder is advanced when the stitch row is knitted on the needle bed facing the needle bed knitted on the one yarn feeder. A step of transferring the stitches at the end to the opposite needle bed before knitting the stitch row, making a mistake in the empty needle, and transferring the transferred stitches after knitting the stitch row.
少なくとも前後一対の針床を有する横編機を用いて、前後の針床に対して別々の給糸口で給糸して編成される編目列の両端部で、編糸部分が交絡して形成される筒状編地であって、前後の各編目列が繋がる境界部において編目列の端部の編目の前にミス糸が渡ることを特徴とする筒状編地。










Using a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and back needle beds, the knitting yarn portions are entangled at both ends of the stitch row that is knitted by feeding yarns to the front and rear needle beds at different yarn feeders. A tubular knitted fabric characterized in that a miss yarn crosses before a stitch at an end of the stitch row at a boundary portion where the front and rear stitch rows are connected.










JP2008221585A 2008-08-29 2008-08-29 Method for knitting tubular knitted fabric and knitted fabric Pending JP2010053490A (en)

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102465384A (en) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-23 株式会社岛精机制作所 Method for raising knitted fabric and knitted fabric
CN104342838A (en) * 2013-08-09 2015-02-11 H.斯托尔两合公司 Method for producing a textile article on a flat knitting machine
CN111455532A (en) * 2020-04-13 2020-07-28 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Perforated warm-keeping cloth, production method and polar fleece fabric prepared from perforated warm-keeping cloth
CN113756000A (en) * 2021-08-03 2021-12-07 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 Weaving method for improving alternating effect of fully-formed stripes and fabric thereof
CN114059219A (en) * 2020-08-06 2022-02-18 株式会社岛精机制作所 Method for knitting knitted fabric
CN115404587A (en) * 2021-05-26 2022-11-29 株式会社岛精机制作所 Knitting method of knitted fabric

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102465384A (en) * 2010-11-05 2012-05-23 株式会社岛精机制作所 Method for raising knitted fabric and knitted fabric
CN104342838A (en) * 2013-08-09 2015-02-11 H.斯托尔两合公司 Method for producing a textile article on a flat knitting machine
CN111455532A (en) * 2020-04-13 2020-07-28 福建华峰新材料有限公司 Perforated warm-keeping cloth, production method and polar fleece fabric prepared from perforated warm-keeping cloth
CN114059219A (en) * 2020-08-06 2022-02-18 株式会社岛精机制作所 Method for knitting knitted fabric
CN115404587A (en) * 2021-05-26 2022-11-29 株式会社岛精机制作所 Knitting method of knitted fabric
DE102022204793A1 (en) 2021-05-26 2022-12-01 Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. METHOD OF KNITTING A KNIT
KR20220159901A (en) 2021-05-26 2022-12-05 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 Method for knitting knitted fabric
CN115404587B (en) * 2021-05-26 2023-10-10 株式会社岛精机制作所 Knitting method of knitted fabric
CN113756000A (en) * 2021-08-03 2021-12-07 斓帛职业培训学校(桐乡)有限公司 Weaving method for improving alternating effect of fully-formed stripes and fabric thereof
CN113756000B (en) * 2021-08-03 2022-11-25 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 Knitting method for improving full-forming stripe alternation effect and fabric thereof

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