JP2000328377A - Stretchable composite false-twist textured yarn and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain the subject textured yarn with the total percent crimp(TC) at low levels, i.e., being a specific value or lower, improved in stretchability, puffy feeling, deep colorability, resilience and soft feeling, afforded from such an air-interlaced yarn as to be disposed with a specific conjugate yarn as core yarn and a specific medium-oriented yarn as sheath yarn. SOLUTION: This textured yarn with the total percent crimp(TC) of as low as <=5% is obtained from an air-interlaced yarn composed of (A) as core yarn, a conjugate yarn made from two kinds of polyester-based polymers pref. differing in intrinsic viscosity from each other wherein the higher-intrinsic viscosity polyester is 0.5-0.7 in intrinsic viscosity, the intrinsic viscosity difference is 0.2-0.4, and having cross section of pref. side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core type and (B) as sheath yarn, a medium-oriented polyester yarn of self-elongation tendency [pref. obtained by relaxation heat treatment at 120-190 deg.C under a percent relaxation of 2-15% of a raw yarn with a birefringence (Δn) of pref. 0.2-0.45].

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a stretchable composite false twisted yarn, and more particularly, to an improved softness and ironing property in addition to stretchability, swelling, deep color and resilience. The present invention relates to an elastic composite false twisted yarn free from concerns about "hit" and "shininess" at the time, and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, there has been an increasing demand for a woven fabric having both elasticity, swelling, deep color and resilience as a material for clothing, and an elastic composite false twisted yarn providing such a woven fabric. ing.

[0003] For this reason, Japanese Patent No. 2560170 and Japanese Patent No. 2538735 disclose a heat treatment for relaxing a semi-drawn polyester yarn (intermediate oriented yarn) having a shrinkage ratio of boiling water of 5% or less and a single fiber fineness of 2 de or more as a sheath yarn. Using the yarn as the other core yarn, the boiling water shrinkage is 8% or more, and the single fiber fineness is 3 de or more.
It has been proposed to express the above four characteristics by using a Taslan or interlaced type air entangled yarn provided with a 10.0 de high shrinkage polyester yarn.

Indeed, according to this proposal, the desired texture is expressed in the final fabric, and the single fiber fineness of the sheath yarn is 2d.
"e" or more, "hit" when ironing
Is also disclosed. However, the presence of loops and tarmi that are inevitably generated due to the unique yarn structure of Taslan or interlace sometimes causes "hits" and "shininess" when ironing, thereby deteriorating the original characteristics of the fabric. It turned out that it not only erased the book, but also degraded the end product itself. At the same time, in this type of yarn structure, the core portion is relatively harder than the sheath portion, and the softness of the yarn as a whole still remains as one step.

The inventor of the present invention has studied a processed yarn material that does not cause such a “hit” or “shininess” when ironing, and as a result, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-361.
No. 03, namely a Taslan-type air-entangled yarn of a polyester drawn yarn and a polyester intermediate oriented yarn is subjected to false twisting under an underfeed at a false twist heat fixing temperature exceeding 200 ° C. It was confirmed that the obtained non-stretchable composite false twisted yarn corresponded to this.
However, as described above, since this material is composed of a drawn polyester yarn and a polyester intermediate oriented yarn, the softness is inferior to the former, and it is not possible to sufficiently meet the demand for deep color, which is preferred by consumers. , The disadvantage.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to improve the softness while maintaining the conventional levels of stretchability, swelling, deep color and resilience, and to improve the ironing property when ironing. An object of the present invention is to provide a stretchable composite textured yarn free from concerns about “hit” and “shininess”.

[0007]

According to the present invention, a false twist obtained from an air-entangled yarn in which a polyester-based conjugate yarn is used as a core yarn and a self-extending yarn of a polyester intermediate oriented yarn is used as a sheath yarn. A stretchable composite false twisted yarn, characterized in that the total crimp ratio (TC) is at a low level of 5% or less, and a polyester conjugate yarn as a core yarn. A entangled yarn in which a self-expanding polyester intermediate oriented yarn is arranged as a sheath yarn,
A method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn characterized by subjecting to false twisting at a false twist heat setting temperature of 90 ° C.

Here, the background that led to the adoption of the above configuration in the present invention will be described. First, in the present invention, the “twisted false twisted yarn” described in the aforementioned Japanese Patent No. 2560170 when ironing is used. It started by investigating the cause of "hit" and "shine". As a result, the "hit" and "shininess" at the time of ironing are caused by the loops and tarmi inherent to the Taslan yarn existing on the surface of the processed yarn, and also by the tarmi generated on the yarn surface of the interlaced yarn. , The filaments that make up the tarmi are in a non-crimped state,
In other words, it was found that the flat yarn state itself increased the "hit" and "shininess" during ironing.

In view of the above, the present inventor has conducted intensive studies on the elimination of "hit" and "shininess" during ironing. As a result, the air-entangled yarn using the conventional raw yarn is slightly crimped, and the raw silk state is also reduced. It is extremely useful to provide a crimp that can be substantially maintained, specifically, a crimp of 5% or less, preferably 3% or less in terms of total crimp ratio (TC). By arranging a crimp-expressing conjugate yarn as the yarn, it was clarified that the softness of the processed yarn as a whole was further emphasized. Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described.

[0010]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS As described above, the stretchable composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has a core yarn made of a polyester-based conjugate yarn such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate or polyethylene naphthalate. It is a stretchable composite false twisted yarn in which a fibrous polyester intermediate oriented yarn is arranged as a sheath yarn.

Here, the polyester conjugate yarn means polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate or the like.
Or, a cross-section of a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type obtained by using at least two kinds of polyester-based polymers selected from copolymers and the like. A preferred polymer combination is especially polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities. In this case, that of the polyester polymer with the higher intrinsic viscosity may generally be in the range of 0.5 to 0.7, wherein the intrinsic viscosity difference between the polymers is in the range of 0.2 to 0.4. It is preferred that the adjustment be made as follows. Here, the intrinsic viscosity is 1% by weight of the polymer using orthochlorophenol as a solvent.
This is the value obtained from the solution.

On the other hand, the self-extensible polyester intermediate oriented yarn generally melts and discharges a polyester-based polymer such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or polyethylene naphthalate, or a copolymer thereof, and melts at 2,200 m / min. 4500m / m
The birefringence (Δn) obtained at an in take-off speed of 0.02
The original yarn in the range of ~ 0.45, that is, the intermediate oriented yarn,
It is obtained by a relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of 120 ° C. to 190 ° C. (for a contact type heater) or a temperature of 160 ° C. to 210 ° C. (for a non-contact type heater) under a relaxation rate of １５15%. At this time, it is also useful from the viewpoint of a different color effect that the intermediate oriented yarn itself or its constituent filaments have a thick and thin shape such as thick and thin-yarn.

Next, both yarns are subjected to an air entanglement treatment, which may be interlaced or taslan-treated.
What is necessary is just to give the confound of about 100 pieces / m. What is important is the overfeed rate between the sheath yarn and the core yarn. Generally, the overfeed ratio between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is set to 10% or less and that of the core yarn to 1.0% or less. It is preferable to maintain the rate difference in the range of 1.0% to 9.0%.

At the time of confounding, the mixing ratio of the sheath yarn and the core yarn may be in the range of 25:75 to 75:25 by weight. At this time, if the single fiber fineness of the sheath yarn is adjusted to about 2 to 4 de, that of the core yarn to about 3.0 to 10.0 de, and the latter is adjusted to be 1.5 de more than the former, the resilience is high. A processed yarn is obtained. The total denier of the processed yarn is usually 100 to 350 d
About e is preferable. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the monofilament constituting the core yarn or the sheath yarn may be appropriately determined from a round cross section to an irregular cross section as necessary.

[0015] In the final stage of the production of the elastic composite false twisting yarn, the entangled yarn is subjected to false twisting. What is important here is the heat setting temperature of the false twist, which is to be maintained in the range of 100 ° C. to 190 ° C. based on the temperature of the contact heater. When the temperature is less than 100 ° C., crimping of loops and tarmi generated on the surface of the processed yarn is insufficient, and does not contribute to eliminating “hit” or “shininess” during ironing. On the other hand, when this temperature exceeds 190 ° C., crimping of false twist is excessively developed, and the characteristics of raw silk are lost.

That is, the heat setting temperature in this range allows the processed yarn to be slightly and delicately crimped while maintaining the characteristics of the texture and physical properties of the processed yarn using raw silk recommended by the two patents mentioned at the beginning. Is to be provided. Here, the level of “mild and subtle crimp” is 5% or less, preferably 3.5% or less and 1.0% or less, based on the “total crimp rate (TC)” commonly used in the art. That is all.

The stretchable composite false twisted yarn obtained in this manner is twisted as required, subjected to a weaving and knitting step, and then subjected to an alkali reduction treatment in a dyeing and finishing step. At this time, in a finishing treatment at around 130 ° C., for example, in a relaxation treatment, the self-extensibility of the polyester intermediate oriented yarn is developed, a feeling of swelling is expressed, and the molecular structure of the yarn is relaxed. A markedly increased soft dyed fabric rich in deep color can be obtained.

[0018]

In the stretch composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the characteristics of the processed yarn using conventional raw silk, namely, stretchability,
While maintaining a feeling of swelling, resilience and deep color,
Furthermore, since a slight crimp is added, a soft feeling is improved, and a structure without fear of "hit" or "shininess" at the time of ironing is obtained. At this time, as the core yarn is a conjugate yarn having a crimp expression performance and a stretching ability as compared with the raw yarn, the “konare” with the sheath yarn is also improved, and the softness of the processed yarn as a whole is improved. Function to further enhance the stretchability.

[0019]

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples, but the intrinsic viscosity and the total crimp ratio (T
C), the stretch ratio and the elongation recovery ratio follow the following definitions, respectively.

-Total crimping ratio (TC) A skein is produced by making a stretchable composite false twisted yarn 10 turns in a measuring machine having an outer circumference of 1.125 m. One end of the skein is fixedly hung, and the length after leaving the lower end for 1 minute while simultaneously suspending a light load of 2 mg / denier and a heavy load of 0.2 g / denier is defined as L0. Next, remove the heavy load from the state,
The skein with only a light load suspended is immersed in warm water at 97 ° C. to 100 ° C. for 20 minutes to develop crimp, and then removed from the warm water. After further removing the light load from the removed skein and allowing it to air dry for 24 hours in this state, the length of the skein when the light load and the heavy load are suspended again is L1, and the heavy load is subsequently removed. The length of the skein after left for 1 minute is L2. At this time, the total crimp rate is calculated by the following equation. Total crimp rate (TC)% = (L1−L2) / L0 × 100

Stretch rate (ST) A test piece having a size of 5 cm × 20 cm is applied with an initial load of 20 g using a tensile tester equipped with an automatic recording device, and a gripping interval is 10 c.
m, and the tensile speed is 30 cm / mi.
After elongating with a constant load of 1.5 kg with n, immediately return to the original position at the same speed and draw a load-elongation curve. Where S
T is the extension distance of Lcm immediately before returning to the original position at the same speed immediately after stretching with the above 1.5 kg constant load.
(Up to 0.01 cm), it is expressed by the following equation. ST = [(L-10) / 10] × 100 (%)

Elongation recovery rate (EL) In the load-elongation curve obtained at the time of measuring the above-mentioned stretch rate, after elongating with a constant load of 1.5 kg, immediately after returning to the original position at the same speed, the residual elongation was measured. When Rcm (up to 0.01 cm), EL is represented by the following equation. EL = [(LR) / L] × 100 (%)

Example 1 As a core yarn forming an air entangled yarn, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.41 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 were used in a weight ratio of 50:50. Side-by-side type conjugate yarn (100de / 24fi)
l) was prepared. Further, as a sheath yarn forming the confounding yarn, a polyethylene terephthalate intermediate oriented yarn (80 de / 36 fill) having a birefringence index (Δn) of 0.38 is applied at a relaxation rate (overfeed rate) of 12% to 160%. Relaxation heat treatment was performed while running on a contact-type heater heated to ℃.

Next, the overfeed rate of the core yarn is set to 1.5.
% And that of the sheath yarn were adjusted to 7%, and both yarns were introduced into an interlace nozzle (pressurized air pressure: 3.5 kg: gauge pressure) to obtain an air entangled yarn having a degree of entanglement of 78.

The air entangled yarn was used for a false twist of 1800 T / M,
It was subjected to false twisting at a heater (contact type) temperature of 150 ° C. to obtain an elastic composite false twisted yarn.

Next, S1 was added to the stretch composite false twisted yarn.
Using a twisted yarn of 600 T / M, a satin finish (woven density: warp 1)
(60 / whale size, 90 / whale size) were obtained. This was subjected to an alkali treatment at a weight loss rate of 20%, and then dyed black by a conventional method, followed by finishing treatment.

The obtained woven fabric maintains the same elasticity, swelling, resilience and deep color as those of the conventional product, while emphasizing the softness that is not seen in the conventional product. It had a texture. In addition, since the conjugate yarn constitutes the core yarn of the stretchable composite false twisting yarn, it exhibits a stretch property of 15% in both the warp and weft directions of the woven fabric, and also has a good elongation recovery rate of 90%. Met.

Finally, the woven fabric was ironed at 220 ° C., and the “hit” and “shininess” during ironing were
Upon inspection for the presence of any, no such spots were found.

[0029]

According to the present invention, mild crimping can be applied to the processed yarn structure using conventional raw silk as long as the characteristics (stretchability, swelling, resilience and deep color) are not lost. The use of a conjugate yarn as the core yarn makes it possible to provide a stretchable composite false-twisted yarn that has a further improved softness and stretchability and is free from concerns about "hit" and "shininess" when ironing. The concern that the quality at the stage of the final sewn product is deteriorated as compared with the related art is eliminated.

Claims (13)

[Claims] 1. A false twisted yarn obtained from an air-entangled yarn in which a polyester-based conjugate yarn is used as a core yarn and a self-extensible polyester intermediate oriented yarn is used as a sheath yarn. (TC) is at a low level of 5% or less. 2. The stretchable composite false twisting yarn according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate yarn has a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath-core type cross section made of polyester polymers having different intrinsic viscosities. 3. The polyester polymer having a higher intrinsic viscosity has an intrinsic viscosity in a range of 0.5 to 0.7.
Or the stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to 2. 4. An intrinsic viscosity difference between the polymers is from 0.2 to
The stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, 2 or 3, which is in the range of 0.4. 5. The self-stretching polyester intermediate oriented yarn is obtained by heating a raw yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 0.2 to 0.45 at a relaxation temperature of 2 to 15% to 120 to 190 ° C. The stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, which is obtained by relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of: 6. The stretch composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the entangled yarn is an interlaced yarn or a Taslan (registered trademark) yarn. 7. A confounding yarn in which a polyester-based conjugate yarn is used as a core yarn and a self-extensible polyester intermediate oriented yarn is used as a sheath yarn, and is subjected to false twisting at a false twist heat fixing temperature of 100 ° C. to 190 ° C. A method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn. 8. The method of claim 7, wherein the conjugate yarn has a cross-section of a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath-core type made of polyester polymers having different intrinsic viscosities. Method. 9. The polyester polymer having a higher intrinsic viscosity has an intrinsic viscosity in a range of 0.5 to 0.7.
Or a method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to item 8. 10. An intrinsic viscosity difference between the polymers is 0.2 to 0.2.
10. The method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to claim 7, 8 or 9, which is in the range of 0.4. 11. The self-stretching polyester intermediate oriented yarn is prepared by heating a raw yarn having a birefringence (Δn) of 0.2 to 0.45 at a relaxation rate of 2 to 15% to 120 ° C. to 190 ° C. The method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to claim 7, which is obtained by relaxation heat treatment at a temperature of: 12. The method according to claim 7, wherein the confounding yarn is an interlaced yarn or a Taslan yarn. 13. A false twist heat setting temperature of 110 ° C. to 180 ° C.
The method for producing a stretchable composite false twisted yarn according to claim 7, wherein