ITMI20070151A1 - PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FIBER FABRIC EXTRAFINE ANIMALS NON-TEXTIBLE INDUSTRIALY AND FABRIC THAT WERE OBTAINED - Google Patents
PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FIBER FABRIC EXTRAFINE ANIMALS NON-TEXTIBLE INDUSTRIALY AND FABRIC THAT WERE OBTAINED Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- ITMI20070151A1 ITMI20070151A1 IT000151A ITMI20070151A ITMI20070151A1 IT MI20070151 A1 ITMI20070151 A1 IT MI20070151A1 IT 000151 A IT000151 A IT 000151A IT MI20070151 A ITMI20070151 A IT MI20070151A IT MI20070151 A1 ITMI20070151 A1 IT MI20070151A1
- Authority
- IT
- Italy
- Prior art keywords
- yarns
- fibers
- fabric
- extrafine
- extra
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 22
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims description 33
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000006193 liquid solution Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010926 purge Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/40—Yarns in which fibres are united by adhesives; Impregnated yarns or threads
- D02G3/404—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions
- D02G3/406—Yarns or threads coated with polymeric solutions where the polymeric solution is removable at a later stage, e.g. by washing
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/60—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
- D03D15/68—Scaffolding threads, i.e. threads removed after weaving
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/04—Silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
Description
DESCRIZIONE DESCRIPTION
dell’invenzione industriale avente per titolo: of the industrial invention entitled:
Processo per la produzione di un tessuto in fibre animali extrafini non tessibili industrialmente e tessuto così ottenuto” Process for the production of an industrially non-woven extra-fine animal fiber fabric and fabric thus obtained "
La presente invenzione concerne un processo per la produzione di un tessuto in fibre animali extrafin non tessibili industrialmente ed un tessuto così ottenuto. The present invention relates to a process for the production of an industrially non-woven extra-fine animal fiber fabric and a fabric thus obtained.
Nel campo delle fibre animali extrafini è risaputo che è possibile realizzare industrialmente filati di fibre a titolo molto elevato, per esempio filati pettinati con titolo compreso tra 200 e 50 dtex. E’ però altrettanto risaputo che tali filati hanno una resistenza cinetica talmente bassa da non poter essere assoggettati ad un’operazione di tessitura industriale, che richiede una resistenza a rottura non inferiore a 80-100 grammi. In the field of extra-fine animal fibers it is known that it is possible to industrially produce yarns of fibers with a very high count, for example combed yarns with a count between 200 and 50 dtex. However, it is equally well known that these yarns have a kinetic resistance so low that they cannot be subjected to an industrial weaving operation, which requires a breaking strength of not less than 80-100 grams.
Scopo della presente invenzione è stato quello di realizzare un processo che permettesse la tessitura di filati in fibre animali extrafmi, in particolare in fibre di cashmere, che non sono altrimenti tessibili industrialmente. The purpose of the present invention was to provide a process which would allow the weaving of yarns in extrafine animal fibers, in particular in cashmere fibers, which are not otherwise industrially wearable.
In vista di tale scopo il processo secondo la presente invenzione si caratterizza per il fatto di comprendere la seguente successione di fasi: a) filatura di filati misti di fibre animali extrafini e fibre di seta; In view of this purpose, the process according to the present invention is characterized in that it comprises the following succession of phases: a) spinning of mixed yarns of extra-fine animal fibers and silk fibers;
b) binatura di ciascuno di detti filati misti con un rispettivo filato di fibre sintetiche dissolubili in una soluzione liquida leggermente acida ad alta temperatura; b) doubling each of said blended yarns with a respective yarn of synthetic fibers dissoluble in a slightly acid liquid solution at high temperature;
c) tessitura dei filati binati; c) weaving of the coupled yarns;
d) dissoluzione di detti filati di fibre sintetiche mediante una soluzione liquida leggermente acida ad alta temperatura. d) dissolution of said synthetic fiber yarns by means of a slightly acid liquid solution at high temperature.
In questo modo è possibile ottenere industrialmente tessuti in fibre animali extrafini, in particolare in fibre di cashmere, che finora non è stato possibile sottoporre a tessitura industriale. In this way it is possible to industrially obtain fabrics in extra-fine animal fibers, in particular in cashmere fibers, which up to now has not been possible to subject to industrial weaving.
I filati misti (o cosiddetti “in mischia intima”) permettono infatti di raggiungere titoli elevatissimi mescolando fibre corte morbidissime ma a bassissima tenacità, come le fibre di cashmere extrafine, con fibre lunghe sottilissime e tenacissime come la seta. Blended yarns (or so-called "intimate blends") make it possible to reach very high counts by mixing very soft but very low tenacity short fibers, such as extrafine cashmere fibers, with very thin and very tenacious long fibers such as silk.
Una percentuale idonea dei due tipi di fibre può essere ad esempio 80% di cashmere (WS) e 20% di seta (SE). A suitable percentage of the two types of fibers can be, for example, 80% cashmere (WS) and 20% silk (SE).
La binatura è preferibilmente effettuata con filati sostanzialmente dello stesso titolo e prevede una torsione in senso opposto a quella dei filati misti. In particolare se, come usuale, la torsione dei singoli filati è di tipo Z, la torsione di binatura è di tipo S. The doubling is preferably carried out with yarns substantially of the same count and involves a twist in the opposite direction to that of mixed yarns. In particular, if, as usual, the twist of the single yarns is of the Z type, the doubling twist is of the S type.
Per effetto della torsione di binatura in senso contrario a quella dei filati misti si ottiene un tessuto assai morbido e nello stesso tempo tenace, pur avendo utilizzato fibre animali extrafini altrimenti non tessibili industrialmente. As a result of the twisting of the doubling in the opposite direction to that of mixed yarns, a very soft and at the same time tenacious fabric is obtained, despite having used extra-fine animal fibers otherwise not industrially woven.
Un esempio di realizzazione pratica del processo secondo la presente invenzione verrà ora descritto in dettagli con riferimento agli uniti disegni, in cui: An example of practical embodiment of the process according to the present invention will now be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
la figura 1 mostra un filato misto di fibre animali extrafini, in particolare di fibre di cashmere extrafine, e di fibre di seta, binato con un filato di fibre sintetiche dissolubili in soluzione liquida leggermente acida ad alta temperatura, in particolare di fibre poliviniliche; Figure 1 shows a mixed yarn of extrafine animal fibers, in particular of extrafine cashmere fibers, and of silk fibers, combined with a yarn of synthetic fibers dissolvable in a slightly acidic liquid solution at high temperature, in particular of polyvinyl fibers;
la figura 2 mostra una porzione di un tessuto greggio ottenuto per tessitura di filati binati come quelli di figura 1; figure 2 shows a portion of a raw fabric obtained by weaving coupled yarns such as those of figure 1;
la figura 3 mostra la stessa porzione di tessuto dopo la dissoluzione dei filati di fibre sintetiche. Figure 3 shows the same portion of fabric after the dissolution of the synthetic fiber yarns.
E<!>qui preso in considerazione a titolo di esempio un filato misto 1 di composizione 80% WS - 20%SE con titolo extrafine di 66 dtex. Il filato 1 è stato realizzato mediante filatura tradizionale con torsione Z, preferibilmente di 1100 giri/metro lineare. A mixed yarn 1 of composition 80% WS - 20% SE with an extrafine count of 66 dtex is considered here by way of example. The yarn 1 was made by traditional spinning with Z twist, preferably at 1100 rpm.
Il filato misto 1 viene successivamente binato con un filato 2 sostanzialmente di pari titolo, anclresso con torsione Z, preferibilmente di 1000 giri/metro lineare, costituito da fibre sintetiche cosiddette “idrosolubili”, ossia dissolubili in soluzione acquosa leggermente acida ad alta temperatura, in particolare di materiale polivinilico (PVA). Il filato 2 può essere di fibre filate con taglio di tipo cotoniero (quindi di natura discontinua). The mixed yarn 1 is subsequently combined with a yarn 2 substantially of the same count, also with a Z twist, preferably of 1000 rpm, consisting of so-called "water-soluble" synthetic fibers, i.e. dissoluble in a slightly acidic aqueous solution at high temperature, in detail of polyvinyl material (PVA). The yarn 2 can be of spun fibers with a cotton cut (therefore of a discontinuous nature).
La binatura è effettuata con torsione S, preferibilmente di 440 giri/metro lineare, in modo da ottenere un corretto bilanciamento finale del filato binato. The doubling is carried out with S twist, preferably of 440 rpm, in order to obtain a correct final balance of the twinned yarn.
Il filato binato risultante, indicato con 3 in figura 1, è ovviamente di composizione 50%PVA, 40%WS e 10%SE. The resulting combined yarn, indicated with 3 in figure 1, obviously has a composition of 50% PVA, 40% WS and 10% SE.
Come mostrato in figura 2, un appropriato numero di filati binati 3 viene successivamente sottoposto ad una tessitura tradizionale trama e catena (o su macchina circolare di tipo Jersey), in cui i filati polivinilici 2 fungono da supporto per consentire la tessitura dei filati misti 1, altrimenti non tessibili industrialmente. As shown in figure 2, an appropriate number of coupled yarns 3 is subsequently subjected to a traditional weft and chain weaving (or on a circular Jersey-type machine), in which the polyvinyl yarns 2 act as a support to allow the weaving of the mixed yarns 1 , otherwise not industrially woven.
Il tessuto greggio così realizzato, che può avere qualsiasi armatura di tipo tela, twill o jacquard, ha evidentemente la stessa composizione del filato binato 3. The raw fabric thus made, which can have any weave of the canvas, twill or jacquard type, evidently has the same composition as the combined yarn 3.
Tale tessuto greggio viene poi sottoposto ad una fase tintorìale di purga, in cui viene immerso in una soluzione acquosa di circa 50 litri per lkg di polivinilico con un pH leggermente acido (circa 4,5) ad una temperatura tra 30°C e 100°C (a seconda della natura del filato di PVA). This raw fabric is then subjected to a dyeing phase of purge, in which it is immersed in an aqueous solution of about 50 liters per lkg of polyvinyl with a slightly acid pH (about 4.5) at a temperature between 30 ° C and 100 ° C (depending on the nature of the PVA yarn).
Il filato 2 di PVA viene così eliminato per dissoluzione o scioglimento, lasciando un tessuto finale (fig. 3) composto esclusivamente dai filati misti 1 e quindi di composizione finale 80%WS - 20%SE con titolo di 66 dtex, impossibile da realizzare industrialmente con tecniche tradizionali. The PVA yarn 2 is thus eliminated by dissolution or dissolution, leaving a final fabric (fig. 3) composed exclusively of mixed yarns 1 and therefore of a final composition 80% WS - 20% SE with a count of 66 dtex, impossible to manufacture industrially with traditional techniques.
Grazie alla torsione di binatura S in senso opposto a quella dei singoli filati 1 e 2, dopo lo scioglimento dei filati 2 di PVA il filato residuo 1 ha una torsione che è pari alla somma algebrica delle torsioni di filatura (1100 Z) e dì binatura (440 S), ossia nelTesempio considerato pari a 660 Z. Grazie a questa torsione ridotta il tessuto risultante è quindi estremamente morbido, oltre che di titolo extrafine. Thanks to the doubling twist S in the opposite direction to that of the single yarns 1 and 2, after the PVA yarns 2 have been dissolved, the residual yarn 1 has a twist that is equal to the algebraic sum of the spinning twists (1100 Z) and the doubling twists (440 S), ie in the example considered equal to 660 Z. Thanks to this reduced torsion, the resulting fabric is therefore extremely soft, as well as having an extra fine count.
In definitiva, con il processo secondo la presente invenzione è possibile realizzare un tessuto che ha le seguenti uniche proprietà·. Ultimately, with the process according to the present invention it is possible to produce a fabric which has the following unique properties.
a) è formato da filato con titolo extrafine altrimenti non tessibile industrialmente; a) is made of yarn with an extra-fine count otherwise not industrially woven;
b) ha una morbidezza elevatissima. b) it has a very high softness.
Claims (12)
Priority Applications (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT000151A ITMI20070151A1 (en) | 2007-01-31 | 2007-01-31 | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FIBER FABRIC EXTRAFINE ANIMALS NON-TEXTIBLE INDUSTRIALY AND FABRIC THAT WERE OBTAINED |
AT07123777T ATE529551T1 (en) | 2007-01-31 | 2007-12-20 | METHOD FOR PRODUCING A FABRIC FROM EXTRA FINE ANIMAL FIBERS WHICH CANNOT BE WOVEN INDUSTRIALLY |
EP07123777A EP1953280B1 (en) | 2007-01-31 | 2007-12-20 | Process for the production of a fabric made of extra-fine animal fibres which are not industrially weaveable |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
IT000151A ITMI20070151A1 (en) | 2007-01-31 | 2007-01-31 | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FIBER FABRIC EXTRAFINE ANIMALS NON-TEXTIBLE INDUSTRIALY AND FABRIC THAT WERE OBTAINED |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
ITMI20070151A1 true ITMI20070151A1 (en) | 2008-08-01 |
Family
ID=39428221
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
IT000151A ITMI20070151A1 (en) | 2007-01-31 | 2007-01-31 | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FIBER FABRIC EXTRAFINE ANIMALS NON-TEXTIBLE INDUSTRIALY AND FABRIC THAT WERE OBTAINED |
Country Status (3)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1953280B1 (en) |
AT (1) | ATE529551T1 (en) |
IT (1) | ITMI20070151A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
ITMI20070467A1 (en) * | 2007-03-09 | 2008-09-10 | Jacopo Geraldini | PROCESS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF A FABRIC IN |
ITMI20080204A1 (en) * | 2008-02-08 | 2008-05-09 | G T I S P A Gruppo Tessile Ind | PROCEDURE FOR REALIZING A FABRIC AND FABRIC SO AS REALIZED |
CN102704099A (en) * | 2012-06-06 | 2012-10-03 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 | 220Nm pure cashmere spun yarn and preparation method thereof |
ITMI20131647A1 (en) * | 2013-10-04 | 2015-04-05 | Ermes Ardizzone | PROCEDURE FOR THE REALIZATION OF VERY LIGHT, ANTI-SKY AND NATURAL ELASTIC FABRIC AND MESH WITH PROTEIN FIBERS. |
ITUA20162888A1 (en) * | 2016-04-26 | 2017-10-26 | Jacopo Geraldini | Process for the production of textile material consisting of yarns derived from valuable animal and / or vegetable fibers, extra-fine, with a title such as to be considered non-wearable with mechanical looms and textile material obtained with the process |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB775387A (en) | 1954-06-04 | 1957-05-22 | Kanegafuchi Spinning Co Ltd | Process for manufacturing spun yarn |
GB1068662A (en) | 1962-10-20 | 1967-05-10 | Hanjiro Fujii | Novel yarn |
JPS5598936A (en) * | 1979-01-18 | 1980-07-28 | Unitika Ltd | Production of wool yarn fabric |
IT1312400B1 (en) | 1999-06-15 | 2002-04-17 | Jacopo Geraldini | PROCESS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A TEXTILE ARTICLE IN PURE CASHMERE |
CN1450216A (en) | 2002-04-05 | 2003-10-22 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒集团公司 | Worsted high count yarn technological method for blended spinning cashmere fibre and natural silk fibre |
-
2007
- 2007-01-31 IT IT000151A patent/ITMI20070151A1/en unknown
- 2007-12-20 EP EP07123777A patent/EP1953280B1/en active Active
- 2007-12-20 AT AT07123777T patent/ATE529551T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
EP1953280A2 (en) | 2008-08-06 |
ATE529551T1 (en) | 2011-11-15 |
EP1953280B1 (en) | 2011-10-19 |
EP1953280A3 (en) | 2008-10-29 |
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