FR3136666A1 - Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one carboxyvinyl polymer and at least one polysaccharide polymer at a certain content - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one carboxyvinyl polymer and at least one polysaccharide polymer at a certain content. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one modified carboxyvinyl polymer or no, and at least one polysaccharide polymer. The polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one carboxyvinyl polymer and at least one polysaccharide polymer at a certain content Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, in particular intended to reduce the appearance of cutaneous blackheads and/or prevent cutaneous blackheads.

More particularly, the present invention aims to provide a composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least one carboxyvinyl polymer modified or not and at least one polysaccharide polymer in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.

It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin materials of a composition as described previously.

Background of the invention

There are cosmetic compositions to combat the appearance of skin blackheads or mask them, particularly on the face. This type of skin imperfection, which concerns all skin types, is in fact most often considered unsightly and therefore undesirable. Given its black or even brown color, it is considered too visible and even more so on poorly pigmented skin.

To date, the origin of the color of the skin blackhead has not been fully established.

On the other hand, it is known that the cutaneous blackhead comes from the process of comedogenesis which affects the pilosebaceous units such as sebaceous follicles, which are distributed mainly on the face.

Clinically, a cutaneous blackhead is therefore an open comedo (non-inflammatory lesion) characterized by distension of the hair canal, retention of sebum and excessive cornification of the pilosebaceous canal. Hypercornification leads to the retention of sebum and the accumulation of cellular debris.

A number of solutions for treating skin blackheads have already been proposed.

Some of these solutions are based more particularly on the treatment of blackheads with an active ingredient capable of preventing, altering or removing blackheads. As an illustration of these active ingredients, the active ingredients capable of solubilizing lipids constituting blackheads such as alkyl lactate derivatives, described in US patent 4,540,567, the lipase enzyme, described in US application can in particular be cited. 2006/00511339, or else neutralized fatty acids as described in application EP 3 150 187.

A certain number of these active ingredients, however, have the disadvantage of altering the properties of the composition comprising them, in particular the odor and/or color of the composition, over time. These active ingredients also prove effective against blackheads that are already evident.

One of the solutions proposed to overcome these drawbacks is the use of glycolipids in compositions.

Indeed, it has been observed that glycolipids, and in particular rhamnolipids, inhibit the formation of cutaneous blackheads by probably intervening in the oxidation process of L-DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine). For the record, L-DOPA is involved in the very complex mechanism of melanogenesis. More precisely, the oxidation of L-DOPA, favored by the microbial activity present in the comedo, manifests itself by a color effect probably of the dopachrome type, the latter being a colored intermediate in the melanin biosynthesis pathway. Rhamnolipids appear to alter the formation of the product of the oxidation reaction in comedones, and therefore inhibit the black or brown coloring of the latter.

Such compounds have already been used in cleaning compositions, described in application WO 2020/114793, in particular for cleaning cosmetic residues, unwanted microorganisms or even the body's own excretions such as sebum.

However, the sensory properties of these compositions remain to be improved, in particular by eliminating the formation of lint or residue during the application of these compositions to the keratin materials, such as the skin, of the user (linting phenomenon).

In addition, such compositions may present stability problems over time.

Consequently, it remains very difficult to use glycolipids in cosmetic compositions, while maintaining good stability and satisfactory sensory properties, in particular without presenting a linting phenomenon when applying the composition to the skin of the patient. the user.

Thus, the present invention aims to develop new effective cosmetic compositions for the prevention and/or aesthetic treatment of cutaneous blackheads, which have both good stability over time, while having good sensoriality, in particular without presenting any fluffing phenomenon.

The subject of the present invention is a composition, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one glycolipid,
- at least one carboxyvinyl polymer modified or not, and
- at least one polysaccharide polymer,
in which the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratin materials such as the skin.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads comprising at least one step of application to said keratin materials. of a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.

As illustrated in the examples below, the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to obtain effective and stable compositions, with a pleasant final sensoriality and without presenting any linting phenomenon during the application of the composition. on the user's keratin materials, such as the skin. This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the different examples can in particular be combined in variants not illustrated.

The expression “at least one” means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “ between ” and “ ranging from… to… ”.

By “ keratin materials ” according to the invention is meant the skin of the body, face and/or eye contour, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, scalp and/or hair, or any other skin area of the body. More particularly, the keratin materials according to the invention are the scalp, the hair, and/or the skin.

Preferably, the keratin materials according to the invention are skin.

By “ the skin ”, we mean the entire skin of the body, and preferably, the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face.

By “ cosmetic ”, we mean a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and appendages. The composition according to the invention is non-therapeutic.

Detailed description of the invention Glycolipid

As mentioned previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, glycolipids.

If two or more glycolipids are used, they may be the same or different.

The term “ glycolipid ” means a compound formed of a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are attached.

In particular, the glycolipid(s) may be chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from rhamnolipids.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably comprises at least one rhamnolipid.

Glucolipids:

The glycolipid(s) may be glucolipids, which comprise a glucose moiety and may be represented by the following general formula (I):
(I)
in which :
- R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
- p designates an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and
- q designates an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

Glucolipids can be produced by the bacteria Alcaligenes Sp.MM1.

Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctorate (thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch 46C 197-203.). Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth via solvent extraction using ethyl ether or a mixture of dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol.

Sophorolipids

The glycolipid(s) may be sophorolipids, which comprise a sophorose moiety and may be represented by the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
- R ³ and R ⁴ represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an acetylated group,
- R ⁵ represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably methyl,
- R ⁶ represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R ⁵ and R ⁶ groups does not exceed 20 and is preferably 14 to 18.
- R ⁷ represents a hydrogen atom,
- R ⁸ represents a hydroxy OH group,
or R ⁷ and R ⁸ together form a lactone ring.

The sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the invention either in the free open-chain acid form, where R ⁷ represents a hydrogen atom and R ⁸ represents a hydroxy OH group, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R ⁷ and R ⁸ as indicated in the following formula (III):
(III)
in which :
- R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are as defined above,
provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetylated group.

Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola . The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J Chem (1962) 40 1326 and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984) 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones, which can be used as mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

As sophorolipids for example, we can use that sold under the name Sopholiances from Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife from BASF.

Trehalolipids

The glycolipid(s) may be trehalolipids, which comprise a trehalose moiety and may be represented by the following general formula (IV):
(IV)
in which :
- R ⁹ , R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ represent, independently of each other, a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated hydrocarbon radical having 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacteria Rhodococcus erythropolis . Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Ishigami et al. (1987) J. Jpn Oil Chem Soc 36 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch 46C 197-203; and Passeri et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch 46C 204-209.

Cellobiose lipids:

The glycolipid(s) may be cellobiose lipids, which comprise a cellobiose moiety and may be represented by the following general formula (V):
(V)
in which :
- R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
- R ¹² represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
- R ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom or an acetylated group; ,
- R ¹⁴ represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

Cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus ustilago . Suitable fermentation methods are provided by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986) Biotech Letts 8 757-762.

Rhamnolipids:

The glycolipid(s) may be rhamnolipids.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one rhamnolipid.

Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of a rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid), linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three chains of β-hydroxy fatty acids linked together by an ester bond.

Preferably, the rhamnolopids are chosen from mono- and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI):
(VI)
in which :
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
- n designates an integer equal to 1 or 0, and
- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical,
as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers.

Thus, when n is equal to zero, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
- n designates an integer equal to 1, and
- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical,
as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers.

The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration, and is preferably in alpha configuration.

In the context of the invention,:
- the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their carboxylate salts with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium,
- the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated with one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or a solvate of a linear or branched alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids are preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and
- the term “ alkyl ” radical designates a saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group; for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ -alkyl group having a hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
- n designates an integer equal to 1; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl radicals and the radicals of formula -(CH ₂ ) _o CH ₃ with o designating a whole number ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15, and more particularly from 4 to 12.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII):
(VII)
in which :
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1,
- n is equal to 1,
- R ₁ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) _p −CH ₃ , with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
- R ₂ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) _q −CH ₃ , with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers.

By way of illustration and not limitation of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds of formula Di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

The formula Di-RL-CXCY is an alternative writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (Di-RL) functionalized by two radicals R ₁ and R ₂ respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, also called di- RL-C10C10, or any of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1, is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 50% in weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, or any of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R ₁ represents a radical -(CH ₂ ) _o CH ₃ with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12 and R ₂ is chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl radicals, preferably, R ₁ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) ₆ CH ₃ and R ₂ a nonenyl radical, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.

According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII), as defined above, and more preferably chosen from:
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, and
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R ₁ represents a radical -(CH ₂ ) _o CH ₃ with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12 and R ₂ is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl radicals, and preferably, R ₁ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) ₆ CH ₃ and R ₂ is a nonenyl radical.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, more preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
- at least 50% by weight, and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1 , relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,
- from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and n and m are equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and
- from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R ₁ represents a radical -(CH ₂ ) ₆ CH ₃ and R ₂ represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

Rhamnolipids are conventionally prepared by methods known to those skilled in the art from producing bacteria, such as Pseudomonas strains.

Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H.P. Kleber in Adv Biochem. Eng./Biotechnol. (1986) 33, 53-90 and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R. M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

As rhamnolipids, we can use that sold under the name Rheance One by the company Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of glycolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of rhamnolipid(s) ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 3 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Carboxyvinyl polymer modified or not

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer.

Preferably, the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.

By “(meth)acrylic” within the meaning of this application, we mean acrylic or methacrylic.

By way of example, we can cite those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen K, Synthalen L, or Synthalen M.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, we can in particular cite Carbopol 980 (CTFA name: carbomer) marketed by the company Lubrizol.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, in particular a carbomer.

The carboxyvinyl polymer(s), modified or not, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polysaccharide polymer

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer.

The polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content greater than or equal to 0.3% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-starchy heteropolysaccharides:

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 0.1% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The term “ heteropolysaccharide ” means a polysaccharide formed from different monosaccharides.

The term “ homopolysaccharide ” means a polysaccharide formed from a single monosaccharide.

The non-starchy heteropolysaccharides can be chosen from heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms.

The heteropolysaccharides produced by microorganisms can be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan, gellan gums, and mixtures thereof.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C with a viscometer). Brookfield, type LVT at 60 revolutions per minute).

Xanthan gums are for example marketed under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane ^TM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name Novaxan ^TM by the company ADM , and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

Succinoglycans are for example marketed under the name Rheozan, by the company Rhodia.

Gellan gum is for example marketed under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.

The non-starchy heteropolysaccharides can also be chosen from heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae.

The heteropolysaccharides isolated from algae can be chosen from alginate-based compounds.

By “ alginate-based compound ” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and alginic acid salts (alginates) or said derivatives.

Mention may in particular be made of alginate-based compounds having a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 15,000 to 500,000, and better still from 20,000 to 250,000.

According to a preferred embodiment, the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or one of its salts.

Preferably, the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, more preferably sodium alginate.

The alginate-based compounds suitable for the invention can be sold under the names Kelcosol, Satialgine ^TM , Cecalgum ^TM or Algogel ^TM by the company Cargill products, under the name Protanal ^TM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol® and Manugel® by the company ISP.

The non-starchy heteropolysaccharides can be chosen from the heteropolysaccharides of higher plants, and in particular the heterogeneous heteropolysaccharides and their derivatives.

Mention may in particular be made of gum arabic, galactomannans, such as guar gum and its derivatives, fenugreek, tara gum, and locust bean gum, glucomannans (konjac gum), LM and HM pectins and their derivatives. , and their mixtures.

Unmodified non-ionic guar gums are for example sold under the name Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name Viscogum ^TM by the Cargill company, and under the name Supercol® guar gum by the Aqualon company.

Hydrolyzed non-ionic guar gums are for example sold under the name Meyprodor® by the company Danisco.

Non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar), by the company Rhodia, or under the name N-Hance® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.

Guar gums modified by cationic groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

The anionic guar gums can be chosen from carboxymethylated guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).

Unmodified locust bean gum is notably sold under the name Viscogum ^TM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin, and under the name Grinsted® LBG by the company Danisco.

Chemically modified carob gums can be chosen from cationic carobs, for example sold under the name Catinal CLB (carob Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Toho.

Tara gum is, for example, sold under the name Vidogum SP by the Unipektin company.

Konjac gum is, for example, sold under the name Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shimizu.

Pectins are notably marketed by the company Cargill under the name Unipectin ^TM , by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, more preferably xanthan gum.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, more preferably comprises xanthan gum.

Polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides:

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the polysaccharide polymer(s) distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, again more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Such a polymer may in particular be chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides.

In particular, the non-starchy homopolysaccharides can be chosen from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or by fungi, in particular chosen from pullulan, dextran and dextran sulfate, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Pullulan is, for example, produced under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the Hayashibara group in Japan.

Dextran is for example sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, under the name Dextran 40 powder or Dextran 70 powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is notably marketed by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.

Scleroglucan is for example sold under the name Amigel by the Alban Muller company, or under the name Actigum ^TM CS by the Cargill company.

The non-starchy homopolysaccharides can also be chosen from homopolysaccharides isolated from algae, in particular chosen from galactans, furcellaran, and mixtures thereof.

Galactan can be chosen from agar or carrageenan.

Carrageenans are notably marketed by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names Satiagel ^TM and Satiagum ^TM , and by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.

Agar is for example produced by the B&V Agar Producers group, under the name Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the Hispanagar company, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the Setexam company. .

Furcellarane is, for example, produced by the Est-Agar company.

The non-starchy homopolysaccharides can also be chosen from the homopolysaccharides of higher plants, in particular the homogeneous homopolysaccharides and their derivatives.

These polymers may in particular be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructans.

As celluloses, mention may in particular be made of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses with C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chains, such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (alkyl in C ₁₂ ) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C ₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company Croda .

Among the cellulose derivatives, mention may also be made of celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as hydroxyethyl celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, in particular C ₈ -C ₂₂ , arylalkyl, alkylaryl, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether groups of alkyl phenol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 ( polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company Amerchol.

Celluloses and derivatives can also be sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose). ) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name Methocel ^TM (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel ^TM (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose ^TM (carboxymethylcellulose ), Culminal® (Methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by the company Hercules Aqualon.

Fructosan can be chosen from inulin and its derivatives (in particular dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins). Inulin is for example sold under the name Beneo ^TM inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit® by the company Sensus.

Among the non-starchy homopolysaccharides, we can also cite chitin (Poly N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, β(1,4)-2-Acetamido-2-deoxy-D-glucose).

According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides can be chosen from starchy polysaccharides.

As a representative of this category, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches may be particularly cited.

Native starches are for example sold under the names C*Amilogel ^TM , Cargill Gel ^TM , C* Gel ^TM , Cargill Gum ^TM , DryGel ^TM , C*Pharm Gel ^TM by the company Cargill, under the name Corn starch by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch.

Modified starches are for example sold under the names C*Tex-Instant (pre-gelatinized adipate), C*StabiTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized phosphate), C*PolarTex-Instant (pre-gelatinized hydroxypropyl), C*Set ( acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C*size (oxidation), C*BatterCrisp (oxidation), C*DrySet (dextrinization), C*Tex™ (acetylated distarch adipate), C*PolarTex™ (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C * StabiTex™ (distarch phosphate, acetylated distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill. They can also be chosen from distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the product offered under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropylated cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized distarch phosphate). gelatinized cassava) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the Avebe Company or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

As examples of oxidized starches, we can cite those marketed under the name C*size from the company Cargill.

As particulate starches, the following may be cited in particular:

- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, for example those marketed under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei ( INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch);

- hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular the acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as for example those marketed under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200, D-223, by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer);

- polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as that containing starch and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, such as that marketed under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides are chosen from non-starchy homopolysaccharides, more preferably from homopolysaccharides produced by microorganisms or by fungi, and preferably scleroglucan gum.

Preferably, the polysaccharide polymer(s) are chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides, more preferably from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, non-starchy homopolysaccharides and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.

We can cite the mixture of xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum sold under the name Actigum ^TM VSX 20 by the company Cargill.

Charges

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-silicon filler.

By “ fillers ”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all forms, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

By “ non-silicon filler ” is meant a filler not comprising a silicon atom.

As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, kaolin, particles of N-acylated C ₈ -C ₂₂ amino acids, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, polymer powders. tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, modified or unmodified starches, boron nitride, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acid copolymers acrylic, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

Synthetic or natural micronized waxes, particularly natural, are also suitable. We can in particular cite the Carnauba wax microbeads sold under the name Microcare 350® by the company Micro Powders or under the name Sunhancer Eco SPF Booster by the company Lubrizol. Such additional micronized waxes make it possible in particular to improve the properties when applying the composition to the skin.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from modified or unmodified starches.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler chosen from modified or unmodified starches.

The starch molecules suitable as fillers according to the present invention can have as their origin all plant sources of starch, in particular cereals, vegetables and tubers. More particularly, it may be corn, rice, rice hull, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat, tapioca starches.

As examples, we can cite in particular Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by the company Remy; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder marketed under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch or under the name Organic Tapioca Natural by the company Agrana Starke, rice hull powder marketed under the name Ricesilk by the company Soliance.

The modified starch may be a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) carboxyalkyl starch. The (C ₁ -C ₄ ) carboxyalkyl starches are preferably carboxymethyl starches. The carboxyalkyl starches which can be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxymethyl starch (INCI name: Sodium Caroxymethyl Starch), in particular a sodium salt of carboxymethyl starch, such as those sold under the name Primojel® by the company DMV International or Glycolys ® and Glycolys® LV by the Roquette Company.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises native tapioca starch powder, rice hull powder, or mixtures thereof, and more preferably native tapioca starch powder.

The filler(s), preferably non-silicon, may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.7% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty acid and fatty alcohol

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 18 carbon atoms.

By “ liquid fatty acid ” is meant a fatty acid that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013.105 Pa).

The fatty acids of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

In particular, liquid fatty acids comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms can be chosen from caprylic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, hexanoic acid and their mixtures.

Fatty acids can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product several species, particularly of different chain lengths, can coexist in the form of a mixture.

In particular, liquid fatty acids comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.

“ Liquid fatty alcohols ” are liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in water (i.e., have a water solubility of less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight), and are soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in at least one organic solvent (for example ethanol, chloroform, benzene or petroleum jelly ) at least 1% by weight. The fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated.

In particular, liquid fatty alcohols comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms can be chosen from oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol (the dodecan-1-ol), 2-butyl-1-octanol, 2-hexyl-1-decanol and mixtures thereof.

In particular, liquid fatty alcohols comprising 6 to 18 carbon atoms are linear.

Fatty alcohols can be mixtures, which means that in a commercial product several species, particularly of different chain lengths, can coexist in the form of a mixture.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms chosen from oleic acid, oleic alcohol, linoleic acid, linoleic alcohol , isostearic acid, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably includes oleic alcohol.

The liquid linear or branched fatty acid(s) or alcohol(s) comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.2 % to 10% by weight, even better 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises oleic alcohol in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight, even better 0.5%. at 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Polyol

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyol.

By “ polyol ” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of the alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions and more particularly at least four –OH functions.

Preferably, the polyol(s) according to the present invention have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol can for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the polyol(s) are chosen from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol chosen from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and glycerol.

The polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 17% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Solvent

The composition according to the invention may comprise water.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 40% to 95% by weight of water, preferably from 50% to 90% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a water-soluble solvent.

By “ water-soluble solvent ” is meant in the present invention a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).

Water-soluble solvents are different from the polyols mentioned previously.

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C ₃ and C ₄ ketones and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

The composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight of water-soluble solvent, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of water-soluble solvent, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight. of water-soluble solvent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.

It may in particular be at least one active ingredient for the care of oily skin.

It can also advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient for the care of aged skin.

By the expression “ additional active ”, we mean, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent for the activate, a biological activity which can be in particular:
- a desquamating activity (which allows the opening of comedones), and/or
- anti-microbial activity (in particular on C. acnes), and/or
- a soothing or anti-irritant activity, and/or
- a sebo-regulatory or anti-seborrheic activity, and/or
- an astringent activity, and/or
- an activity intended to combat and/or prevent the signs of aging, particularly chronobiological, for example wrinkles and fine lines.

The additional active ingredient usable in the compositions of the invention is preferably chosen from moisturizing agents other than the polyols mentioned above, humectants, desquamating agents, soothing agents, anti-irritant agents, sebum-regulating or anti- seborrheic agents, depigmenting agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents, healing agents, anti-bacterial agents, vitamins, astringent agents, and their mixtures in all proportions.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, dyes, polar additives, surfactants, film-forming polymers other than polysaccharide polymers or modified or unmodified carboxyvinlyic polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), dispersing agents, and mixtures thereof.

The additional active ingredient used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and better still, from 0.01% to 5% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the planned addition. .

Cosmetic composition

The composition according to the invention comprises a “ physiologically acceptable medium ”.

The term “ physiologically acceptable medium ” within the meaning of the invention means a medium suitable for the administration of a composition topically, and compatible with all keratin materials of human beings such as skin, lips, nails, mucous membranes, eyelashes, eyebrows, scalp and/or hair, or any other skin area of the body, preferably the skin.

According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical administration route.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention is suitable for topical administration, that is to say by application to the surface of the keratin material considered, such as the skin considered.

These compositions are particularly intended for topical application to the face and/or body.

In particular, the composition is applied to the areas of the face and more particularly the forehead and/or the sides of the nose and/or the chin.

The pH of said composition is advantageously less than or equal to 8, preferably ranging from 4 to 7, even better ranging from 4.5 to 7.

The composition according to the invention can be presented in all the dosage forms normally used in the cosmetic field.

It may in particular be in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic solution, possibly gelled, of a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous gel , or even a dispersion of oils in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules being able to be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or non-ionic type. It can be more or less fluid in consistency.

Preferably, the composition considered according to the invention is distinguished from compositions with an essentially detergent vocation with regard to the skin, hair and/or mucous membranes, such as soaps, shampoos and shower gels for washing and/or cleaning.

The composition according to the invention may comprise all the constituents usually used in the application and topical administration envisaged.

The composition according to the invention can advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W). , of liquid or semi-liquid consistency like milk, or of soft consistency, or of multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Preferably, such an emulsion is not intended to be rinsed after application.

Preferably, the composition is in the form of a fluid oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition may alternatively have the form of a facial and/or body care or makeup product, and be packaged for example in the form of a cream in a pot or a fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle or in a dropper bottle. .

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by any known process generally used in the cosmetic field.

The ingredients are mixed before being shaped, in the order and under conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, other agents intended to beautify the appearance and/or texture of the skin may also be added to the composition according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer, in particular a carbomer and at least one polysaccharide polymer chosen from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, and at least one polysaccharide polymer distinct from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides; the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a more preferential embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one rhamnolipid, at least one homopolymer of crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid, in particular a carbomer and at least xanthan gum and gum of scleroglucan in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Processes and uses

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads comprising at least one step of application to said materials. keratins of a composition as described above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.

The cosmetic uses and processes considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic.

The cosmetic use or process of the invention is implemented by administering topically a composition according to the invention.

Topical administration consists of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques of use of these compositions.

By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or process according to the invention can be implemented by topical application, for example daily, of at least one composition according to the invention, which can for example be formulated in the form of a cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion, make-up remover milk, or after-sun composition, preferably in the form of a serum.

According to one embodiment, the application is repeated for example 1 to 2 times daily over a day or more and generally over an extended period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more periods of 'interruption.

According to another embodiment, the application is daily (once a day) and generally over an extended period of at least 4, or even 4 to 15 weeks, with where appropriate one or more interruption periods.

According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned, for example using a suitable soap, and/or previously cleared of blackheads, for example using 'an adhesive patch or mechanical action.

According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention will be applied to areas of skin previously cleaned using a washing solution.

Furthermore, treatment combinations may be envisaged with possibly topical forms in order to complement or reinforce the activity of the composition according to the invention.

One could imagine a topical treatment with a composition according to the invention, associated with an additional composition dedicated to topical application.

Thus, the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads, comprising:
a) a step of topical application to the skin of a washing solution;
b) a step of topical application to the skin of the composition as described above, in particular in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion; And
c) optionally, a step of topical application of a composition different from the composition applied in step b),
steps b) and c) can be carried out simultaneously or successively.

Such a composition applied in step c) can be described as an “additional composition”.

The cleansing solution may in particular be in different forms, such as a solution, an aqueous solution, a lotion, a milky lotion, a cream, a gel, a liquid gel, a paste, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, an emulsion (O/W or W/O form), or others, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution or gel.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius, and is ambient temperature (20-25°C), unless otherwise stated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise stated.

A composition according to the invention ( composition 1 ) and a composition outside the invention ( Composition 2 ), in particular not comprising a polysaccharide polymer in a content strictly greater than 0.2%, and a composition outside the invention ( Composition 3 ), in particular not comprising a polysaccharide polymer, have been prepared.

These compositions, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, include the compounds detailed in Table 2 below, in the contents expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Phase Compounds (INCI name) Composition 1
(invention) Composition 2
(excluding invention) Composition 3
(excluding invention) HAS Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Conservatives qs qs qs Caprylyl glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 Butylene Glycol 5 5 5 Propylene glycol 5 5 5 Ascorbyl Glucoside 1 1 1 B Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum ⁽¹⁾ 0.6 0.2 - Glycerin 5 5 5 VS Oleyl alcohol 2.5 2.5 2.5 Glyceryl stearate citrate 0.25 0.25 0.25 Carbomer ⁽²⁾ 1 1 1.6 D Sodium Hydroxide Qs pH=6 Qs pH=6 Qs pH=6 E Glycolipids ⁽³⁾ 1.5 1.5 1.5 F Tapioca Starch ⁽⁴⁾ 2 2 2 G Ethanol 2 2 2

1. sold by the company Cargill under the trade name Actigum™ VSX 20;
2. sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol 980 Polymer;
3. sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name Rheance One;
4. sold by the company Agrana Starke under the trade name Organic Tapioca Natural.

The following compositions 1, 2 and 3 were prepared according to the process below.

In a tank, the components of phase A are heated to a temperature of 75°C until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained using a rotor/stator.

The components of phase B are dispersed in phase A until a perfectly homogeneous medium is obtained using a rotor/stator.

The components of phase C are added and homogenized using a rotor/stator, at a temperature of 75°C.

The components of phase D are dispersed using a rotor/stator, until a homogeneous medium is obtained, while maintaining the temperature at 25°C.

Finally, the components of phase E, F and phase G are added until a homogeneous mixture is obtained under blades.

Measurement of short-term stability:

The short-term stability of the compositions can be evaluated by centrifugation.

Each composition is placed in a glass tube placed in a cup and subjected to a relative centrifugal force of 900 g for 1 hour at 25°C.

Following this test, the compositions tested must remain homogeneous in the well without release, without phase separation and without color change.

Measurement of long-term stability:

The long-term stability of the compositions can be evaluated according to the following protocol.

The properties of the composition to be tested are evaluated immediately after its preparation.

The composition to be tested is then stored for 2 months at different temperatures: at room temperature (approximately 20°C), at 4°C, at 37°C and at 45°C. The temperature can be regulated using an oven, for example from the Bio concept brand by Firlabo.

The properties are evaluated after 1 month and 2 months of storage under the conditions described above.

The properties evaluated are:

- the pH of the composition, measured using a pH meter;

- the viscosity of the composition, measured using a viscometer, for example Rheomat RM 100 from the Lamy Rheology brand, according to the CID-012-02 method;

- the appearance of the composition, in particular its microscopic appearance evaluated by observation of the composition under the microscope between slide and coverslip, at X10 magnification;

- the color and odor of the composition; And

- release, creaming, coalescence, formation of a surface film, marbling, etc.

The closer the properties of the composition after 1 month and/or 2 months of storage remain to those measured initially, then the more the composition can be considered to remain stable.

In particular, if the composition remains smooth and homogeneous, without release, without phase separation and without color change, then it is considered to be stable.

Measurement of the sensory effect:

The evaluation of the sensory effect consists of noting the presence and quantity of residues of composition 1 according to the invention and of composition 3, outside the invention during the application of each composition to the skin, on a scale ranging from from 1 (no residue) to 5 (significant amount of residue).

To do this, 50 µL of the composition to be tested are taken using an Eppendorf micropipette equipped with a 0.5 mL combitips, then placed on one half of a SKIN FX support (Reference: SHEET MEDIUM BACK K6 LANGUETTE from AXON CABLE SAS) applied to the back of the hand.

The composition is then spread with the fingers, by approximately 15 rotations, twice at 15 second intervals.

The presence of residues on the fingers having applied the composition is evaluated.

The fingers having applied the composition are brought into contact by rotating (thumb and middle index finger) in order to quantify the quantity of residue on the fingers.

The composition thus spread is left to dry for 120 seconds.

The fingers are then rinsed with a cloth moistened with hot water.

Between two assessments, the fingers are rinsed using a cloth moistened with hot water.

The study is carried out by a panel of 5 experienced people individually assessing the presence of residues according to the protocol above.

The result is expressed by the average of the marks obtained, rounded to the nearest half unit, according to the following scale:
- score < 3: little or no residue;
- score equal to 3: quantity of acceptable residues;
- note > 3: significant quantity of residues.

According to the invention, a composition is considered to have unacceptable residues if its average score according to the protocol above is greater than or equal to 3.0.

Stability results:

The stability results are compiled in Table 3 below.

Compositions Composition 1
(invention) Composition 2
(excluding invention) Composition 3
(excluding invention) Short-term stability Compliant Improper Improper Long-term stability Compliant Improper Improper

Composition 1 according to the invention is stable, in the sense that no significant change in its properties is observed, even after storage for 2 months at 45°C.

Composition 2, outside the invention, shows creaming after evaluation of the stability of the composition by centrifugation as well as a release of oil on the surface after 2 months of storage at 45°C. Consequently, composition 2, outside the invention, is therefore unstable.

Composition 3, outside the invention, presents a phase shift after evaluation of the stability of the composition by centrifugation as well as creaming after 2 months of storage at 4°C. Consequently, composition 3, outside the invention, is therefore unstable.

Sensory result:

The sensory effect of composition 1 according to the invention and of composition 3 outside the invention were evaluated according to the measurement protocols detailed above.

The sensory effect and viscosity results are compiled in Table 4 below.

Compositions Composition 1
(invention) Composition 3
(excluding invention) Sensory effect (amount of residue) 2 4

Composition 1 according to the invention has a pleasant final sensoriality and little or no linting phenomenon when applying the composition to the user's skin, unlike composition 3.

As a result, a composition according to the invention, comprising at least one glycolipid and at least one polysaccharide polymer in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, presents both stability and advantageous sensory properties.

Claims (15)

Composition, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one glycolipid,
- at least one carboxyvinyl polymer modified or not, and
- at least one polysaccharide polymer,
in which the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content strictly greater than 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the glycolipid(s) are chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from rhamnolipids. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the glycolipid(s) are chosen from di-rhamnolipids corresponding to general formula (VI):
(VI)
in which :
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
- n designates an integer equal to 1, and
- R ₁ and R ₂ , independently of each other, represent hydrocarbon radicals, identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or not, substituted or not substituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated alkyl radical, as well as their salts, their solvates, and their optical isomers. Composition according to claim 3, in which the di-rhamnolipid(s) correspond to the general formula (VII):
(VII)
in which :
- m designates an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, preferably m is equal to 1,
- n is equal to 1,
- R ₁ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) _p −CH ₃ , with p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
- R ₂ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) _q −CH ₃ , with q being an integer varying from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12,
as well as their salts, solvates, and optical isomers. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, glycolipids, preferably chosen from di-rhamnolipids corresponding to formula (VI) as defined in claim 3 or in claim 3. formula (VII) as defined in claim 4, more preferably chosen from:
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII), in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and n and m are equal to 1,
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which n and m are equal to 1, p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8, and
- a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, R ₁ represents a radical -(CH ₂ ) _o CH ₃ with o being an integer varying from 4 to 12 and R ₂ is chosen from pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl radicals, and preferably, R ₁ is a radical -(CH ₂ ) ₆ CH ₃ and R ₂ is a nonenyl radical. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising said glycolipid(s), preferably chosen from rhamnolipids, in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight , even better from 0.3% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular a carbomer. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the carboxyvinyl polymer(s), modified or not, are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, better 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide polymer(s) are chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides, preferably from non-starchy heteropolysaccharides, non-starchy homopolysaccharides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sugar gum. xanthan, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide polymer(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one liquid linear or branched fatty acid or alcohol comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from oleic acid, oleic alcohol, linoleic acid, linoleic alcohol, isostearic acid, isostearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, more preferably includes oleic alcohol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one polyol, preferably chosen from caprylyl glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one filler, preferably chosen from modified or unmodified starches. Process for caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular for reducing and/or inhibiting and/or preventing the appearance of blackheads comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13. Use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13, to reduce and/or inhibit and/or prevent the appearance of blackheads on keratin materials such as the skin.