FR3131213A1 - Care and/or makeup composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: A silicone-polyurethane polymer, One or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, andOne or more vegetable waxes chosen from the group consisting of sunflower wax, carnauba wax and their mixture.

Description

Care and/or makeup composition FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to cosmetic compositions for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips.

STATE OF THE ART

Lip care and/or makeup products intended to beautify, protect and/or color the lips are widely used. In particular, products are known in liquid, semi-fluid or solid form, for a glossy or matte deposit on the lips and having, for makeup products, good color holding properties. For holding performance (non-transfer) and comfort during application, film-forming polymers, volatile oils, fatty phase gelling agents or structuring agents, and fillers and pigments are generally used to improve texture and/or sensoriality. of the deposit. By way of example, application FR3052357 describes in particular a liquid composition (base coat) for the lips comprising a silicone resin, a polyurethane silicone polymer, isododecane, a non-polar wax (polyethylene wax), an oily gelling agent, fillers and pigments. A top coat including glossy oils, applied to this base coat, allows you to obtain a shiny film on the lips.

But there remains a need to develop compositions with the desired holding (non-transfer) and comfort performance, and which are formulated with a focus on natural or natural ingredients.

For non-liquid compositions such as pasty or solid compositions in pots, cups or sticks, we will also look for compositions whose structure does not break or disintegrate upon application.

The Applicant has demonstrated that a selection of waxes of plant origin, in a composition comprising a polyurethane silicone polymer and linear or branched alkanes, makes it possible to meet this need.

A first aspect of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment:

1. A silicone-polyurethane polymer,
2. One or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, and
3. One or more waxes of plant origin chosen from the group consisting of sunflower wax, carnauba wax, and their mixture.

The composition of the invention is not a liquid composition.

Thus, the composition of the invention could be a pasty composition or a solid composition.

The rheological properties of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by viscosity/elasticity measurements at 25°C on the final product.

The viscoelastic parameters of the pasty or solid compositions of the invention are for example measured using a DHR2 rheometer from TA Instruments, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

For a 'solid or pasty composition' of the invention, a pellet of product is cut and placed between 2 smooth metal planes of 20 mm in diameter and 1 mm of air gap. The conservation modulus or elastic modulus G' (expressed in Pascal (Pa)) and the delta phase angle in degrees (°) are recorded as a function of increasing stress ranging from 0.1 Pa to 10,000 Pa. The values retained are extracted from the linear domain in which the moduli are constant, i.e. at deformations less than 100 Pa.

We will consider as solid or pasty a product whose conservation modulus G' is greater than 5,000 Pa, and whose delta phase angle is less than 30°. Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, a solid or pasty composition of the invention is characterized by a conservation modulus G' greater than 5,000 Pa, and whose delta phase angle is less than 30°, as measured according to the protocol described above.

According to a particular mode, the composition has a conservation modulus G' greater than 20,000 Pa, or even greater than 50,000 and a delta phase angle will be less than 25°.

According to another particular mode, the composition has a conservation modulus G' greater than 100,000 Pa, or even greater than 500,000 Pa and a delta phase angle will be less than 20°.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin or lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows or the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Thus, a first aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment:

1. A silicone-polyurethane polymer,
2. One or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, and
3. One or more waxes of plant origin chosen from the group consisting of sunflower wax, carnauba wax, and their mixture.

By ‘keratin materials’ we mean in particular the skin of the face, the eyelids, the eyebrows and the lips. According to a particular method, the composition of the invention is applied to the eyelids, eyebrows or lips.

The compositions of the invention are pasty or solid compositions, as defined for example by the viscoelastic measurement parameters described above.

According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is a stick.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is packaged in a pot or a cup.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that water is preferably not added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%. by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.

The composition of the invention therefore comprises a silicone-polyurethane polymer.

Silicone-polyurethane polymer

By ‘silicone-polyurethane polymer’ according to the invention is meant any polymer comprising organosiloxane units and urethane bonds.

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention is the reaction product of a polyorganosiloxane functionalized by hydroxyl groups, preferably comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, with a diisocyanate compound.

Such a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups corresponds to the formula formula (I)

in which R is chosen independently at each occurrence from a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, and optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and in particular from an alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, aryl group -alkyl or alkyl-aryl substituted or not; preferably, R is chosen from linear, cyclic or branched and optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl groups, including, without limitation, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, amyl groups , hexyl, cyclohexyl, vinyl, C1-C8 allyl or aryl, aryl-alkyl or alkyl-aryl, including, without limitation, phenyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl,

wherein each of the above R groups may be optionally substituted with one or more heteroatoms, including oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus and halogen, particularly fluorine, as exemplified by fluoroalkyl groups (perfluoroalkyl ) such as mono-, di- and trifluoromethyl, perfluorophenyl, and C1-C6 substituted amino alkyl groups, including those corresponding to the formula - (CH ₂ ) _1-6 -NR ^N ₂ and - (CH ₂ ) _1-6 -NR ^N - (CH ₂ ) _1-6 -NR ^N ₂ where R ^N is typically hydrogen, but may also be methyl, ethyl, propyl, and the like; polyether groups, including, without limitation, polyethylene oxide groups having the formula -(CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n -, propylene oxide groups having the formula -(CH(CH ₃ ) CH ₂ O) _n - and combinations thereof; and amine oxide, phosphate, hydroxyl, ester and/or carboxylate functions, or the like; Or

in which R may comprise an additional group - L -OH;

in which L represents either a bond or a linking group; preferably L is a linking group chosen from divalent hydrocarbons having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, including a divalent alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or aryl-alkyl group, such as for example an alkyl group in C1-C10, including, without limitation, bivalent groups of formula -(CH ₂ ) _1-10 -, preferably -(CH ₂ ) _{1- 6} -, and more preferably, L is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -;

and where n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50.

Preferably, R represents at least one or more occurrences of a methyl group, more preferably, R represents a methyl group at all or almost all occurrences, which means that R represents a methyl group at more than 90 % of occurrences, notably more than 95% of occurrences, or even more than 98% of occurrences. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ia:

in which L and n are as defined previously.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups comprises a polymethylsiloxane corresponding for example to the structure of formula Ib:

where n is as defined above.

The diisocyanate may in particular correspond to the formula O=C=NR ¹ -N=C=O, where R ¹ is a divalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, including 20 optionally substituted by one or more heteroatoms, and in particular R ¹ may be chosen from a linear, cyclic or branched, optionally substituted cyclic alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, aryl, alkyl-aryl or arylalkyl group, including, without limitation:

1. a formula group:

1. a formula group:

1. a formula group:

1. a formula group:

1. a formula group:

and combinations thereof.

The diisocyanates which may be suitable in the context of the invention include, without limitation, toluene diisocyanate; methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, including 2,2'-MDI, 2,4'-MDI and 4,4'-MDI; 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate; isophorone diisocyanate; dicyclohexylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate; xylene diisocyanate; cyclohexane diisocyanate; 3,3'-dimethyl-4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate; p-phenylene diisocyanate; m-phenylene diisocyanate; 4,4'-isopropylidene dicyclohexyl isocyanate; and their equivalents.

In a preferred embodiment, the diisocyanate is chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

In one embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate.

In another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of isophorone diisocyanate.

In yet another embodiment, the diisocyanate comprises or consists essentially of dicyclohexylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate, this embodiment being particularly preferred.

Thus, according to a particular mode, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

• of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (I)

in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

• with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention comprises recurring units derived from polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups and diisocyanate in the form of an alternating copolymer AB, where the unit A has the structure of formula II:

in which R, L and n are defined as previously in relation to formula I, Ia, Ib and le, and where unit B has the structure of formula III:

where R1 is as defined above, and in which the units A and B are arranged in a linear, branched or cyclic, and preferably linear, configuration.

The polymer may also comprise branching or grafting points in the polyorganosiloxane in which one or more R groups in formula I or II is a group IV such as:

in which R is as defined for formula I, and R* may represent an -L-O- group further coupling the side chain of a unit B of formula III, which may in turn be further coupled to the unit A of formula II, and so on, or R* may represent -L-OH, a group R as defined above, or a terminal group.

When the polyorganosiloxane has branching or grafting points of this type, they can be present in the form of T or Q type grafts, where T indicates that only one R group on the Si atom is a polyorganosiloxane chain, as indicated below. -above and Q indicates that the two R groups are polyorganosiloxanes.

These types of polyorganosiloxane compounds are called silicone polymer-polyurethane copolymer and T-resin or Q-resin, branched or grafted.

Silicone-polyurethane polymers can also be prepared from functionalized isocyanate prepolymers. For example, an isocyanate prepolymer may be a difunctional or multifunctional polyorganosiloxane isocyanate, such as the polyorganosiloxane diisocyanate shown below in formula V:

in which R, R ¹ and L are as defined above, and where x is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably 10 and 50.

The prepolymer can also be multifunctional by introducing additional isocyanate groups carrying one or more R groups. The functionalized isocyanate prepolymer is reacted with a polyorganosiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups to obtain a compound of formula I or a multifunctional analog of it.

The prepolymer according to formula V generally has a molecular weight ranging from 4000 to approximately 15,000 Daltons. The prepolymer according to formulas I, Ia, Ib and for its part typically has a molecular weight ranging from 250 to approximately 15,000 Daltons.

In one embodiment of the invention, the silicone-polyurethane polymer is free or essentially free of polyalkylene glycol subunits, notably polyethylene glycol (PEG) or polypropylene glycol (PPG).

By “essentially free of”, it is meant that the polymer comprises less than approximately 1% by weight, preferably less than approximately 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than approximately 0.1% by 20% by weight. of polyalkylene glycol subunits.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone-polyurethane polymer used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is a linear polymer comprising the reaction product of formula Ib with a diisocyanate chosen from the group consisting of the diisocyanate of 1, 6- hexamethylene, dicyclohexylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

Such a silicone-polyurethane polymer is for example available from Siltech Corporation in the form of a pre-mixture in isododecane, under the commercial reference SILMER UR 5050 or UR 100100 (45% in polymer dry matter in the isododecane).

According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a hemi-squalane.

According to another embodiment, a silicone-polyurethane polymer is used in the form of a premix in a linear C9-C16 alkane or a mixture of linear C9-C16 alkanes, preferably a mixture of n -nonane and n-dodecane (C9-C12, VEGELIGHT SILK) or a mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane (C11-C13, CETIOL ULTIMATE).

The silicone-polyurethane polymer according to the invention will be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight of active material (dry matter) of polymer, in particular in a content ranging from 8% to 20%, in particular from 10% to 18% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, and preferably does not comprise any silicone compound distinct from the polyurethane silicone according to the invention.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone resin, in particular less than 1% by weight of silicone resin, and preferably does not comprise any silicone resin.

By ‘silicone resin’ we mean in particular silicone resins of type MQ, type T or type MQT, which are generally in solid form, in particular in powder form.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of non-natural wax (in particular of plant origin), in particular less than 1% by weight of non-natural wax, and preferably does not comprise of unnatural wax. Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of polyethylene wax, in particular less than 1% by weight of polyethylene wax, and preferably does not comprise any polyethylene wax.

Oily phase

The oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes.

As linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, we can cite in particular:

- iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C8-C16 such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemi-squalane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETYL®,:

- linear alkanes having respectively hydrocarbon chains in

- C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Créations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

- C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN® L15,

- C9-C12, C12-C14, C16-C18 such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC, VEGELIGHT® 1618LC,

- n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

• and their mixtures.

Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition comprises one or more C8-C19 alkanes chosen from the group consisting of branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, hemi-squalane; linear C8-C19 alkanes such as nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane and their mixtures, in particular mixtures of linear C11/C13 alkanes, C10/C12, C10/C14, and C15/C19.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least isododecane as branched C8-C19 alkane.

According to a particular mode, the total content of linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes in the composition of the invention will be at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it will range from 40 to 80% by weight, in particular from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase of the composition of the invention is structured by one or more vegetable waxes, chosen from the group consisting of carnauba wax, sunflower wax, and their mixture. Indeed, the Applicant has demonstrated that the choice of these waxes made it possible to obtain a pasty or solid composition according to the invention, with good holding and comfort properties. The composition may also include additional waxes, distinct from sunflower and carnauba waxes, for additional texture and sensorial (slippery) properties. Those skilled in the art will nevertheless take care to choose them according to their nature (hardness) and in contents such that they do not impact the holding and comfort properties provided by sunflower and carnauba waxes.

Waxes of plant origin according to the invention

By “wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid/liquid state change and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 40°C, preferably greater than 60°C.

As the examples illustrate, the Applicant has shown, within natural vegetable waxes, that sunflower and/or carnauba waxes, mixed with the silicone-polyurethane polymer, made it possible to obtain the expected hardness properties (for that the final product does not break or disintegrate upon application), and compatibility with the silicone polyurethane polymer (hot solubility).

Thus, the composition of the invention comprises at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of: carnauba wax and sunflower wax.

Non-limiting examples of commercial references for sunflower wax and carnauba wax are cited in the following table 1:

Plant-based wax Commercial reference Fusion point Carnauba wax CARNAUBA WAX T-1 INA TRADING 78-83 Carnauba wax KAHLWAX 6607L MB 74-80 Sunflower wax SUNFLOWER WAX (KOSTER) 73-78 Sunflower wax SUNFLOWER WAX (YOKOSEKI) 74-80

The melting point is generally indicated in the characteristics given by the supplier for each wax. It can also be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one sunflower wax.

According to another mode, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one carnauba wax.

The presence of several waxes of different hardness (melting point) will make it possible to optimize the hardness, texture and slipperiness properties of the composition.

Thus, advantageously, it may include a sunflower wax and a carnauba wax.

Preferably, the total content of sunflower and carnauba waxes is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the total content of sunflower and carnauba wax(es) selected according to the invention will range in particular from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, depending on whether the composition of the invention is pasty or solid and packaged in a pot (or a cup), or a stick, those skilled in the art will adjust the contents of each wax, depending on the melting point ranges. shown in Table 1 above.

Paste fats and additional waxes (optional)

The composition may also include an additional ingredient chosen from pasty fatty substances, additional waxes distinct from the waxes described above, and mixtures thereof.

Pasty fats

By “pasty fatty substance” is meant a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

As examples of pasty fatty substances, mention may in particular be made of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, esters of polyol(s) and diacid fatty acid dimer, or of one of its esters, oil esters. hydrogenated castor oil, oligomeric glycerol esters, in particular diglycerol esters, vegetable butters and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, pasty fatty substances of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, will be used.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the composition will comprise at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from jojoba esters. The total content of pasty fatty substances may range from 0 to 15%, in particular from 1 to 10%, in particular from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred mode of the invention, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one wax of plant origin chosen from a sunflower wax, a carnauba wax, and their mixture, and advantageously also a pasty fatty substance , in particular chosen from jojoba esters.

Additional waxes (optional)

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more additional waxes distinct from the waxes described above. These additional waxes can provide benefits in terms of texture and/or sensoriality to the composition of the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention will not include silicone waxes or non-natural waxes or waxes of natural origin.

Therefore, it is preferable to use additional natural waxes or waxes of natural origin.

As additional waxes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of polar or apolar waxes.

As "additional polar waxes", we can cite beeswax, rice wax, candelilla wax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax, cotton wax, oil wax. 'china insect, montan wax, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, 'jojoba wax, shellac wax, a behenic ester of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid, triglycerides of C18-C36 fatty acids or one of their mixtures. Preferably, additional polar waxes of plant origin will be used chosen from the group consisting of beeswax, rice wax, candelilla wax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, olive wax. , and their mixtures.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will include a non-polar wax content of less than 5%, in particular less than 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition, or even does not include any non-polar wax.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention will comprise one or more additional polar waxes, preferably additional polar waxes of plant origin distinct from sunflower and carnauba waxes.

When the composition includes one or more additional waxes, the total content of additional wax(es) may range from 0.5 to 10%, or even from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will include a carnauba wax, a sunflower wax and a beeswax.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise a total wax content (including the waxes of the invention and the additional waxes) ranging from 5 to 30%, for example from 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 12%. at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A particular composition of the invention will comprise at least one wax of plant origin chosen from a sunflower wax, a carnauba wax, and their mixture, and advantageously also a beeswax and a pasty fatty substance, in particular chosen among jojoba esters.

Other additional ingredients

The composition according to the invention may further comprise another additional ingredient chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, fillers, coloring materials (e.g. pigments), and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the fatty phase of the composition of the invention may also comprise other texturizing and/or gelling agents, in particular a lipophilic gelling agent.

Lipophilic gelling agent

By “lipophilic gelling agent” according to the invention is meant a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition.

Mention may in particular be made of mineral gelling agents such as bentones dispersed in an oil. We can cite for example the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V from Elementis with the INCI name Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

The total content of lipophilic gelling agent(s) may range from 0.5 to 5%, in particular from 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, and possibly one or more coloring materials.

Charges

The fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and/or to confer a mattifying effect.

For the purposes of the invention, by "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the middle of the composition. The fillers are chosen in particular from micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders; cellulose powders; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice and cotton starches, reticulated or not, and their mixtures.

The fillers may or may not be treated on the surface, in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

According to a particular mode, the filler is not treated on the surface.

According to a particular mode, the filler is treated on the surface, in particular with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent. Mention may in particular be made of lipophilic agents chosen from the group consisting of N-acylated amino acids or their salts, silicone agents, metallic soaps, lecithin and its derivatives, waxes, fatty esters, and phospholipids. According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one silica powder, preferably a silica powder treated on the surface with a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent.

Preferably, the silica powder is treated with a lauroyl lysine. We can cite in particular the commercial reference AMILON ^® from the company IKEDA.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition advantageously comprises a silica powder treated with a lauroyl lysine and an untreated silica powder.

According to a particular mode, the silica powder, in particular the hydrophobic treated silica powder, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2 to 10%, in particular from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular mode, the total content of filler(s) in the composition will range in particular from 2 to 10%, in particular from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Coloring materials

The composition of the invention may also comprise coloring materials.

According to a first mode, the composition of the invention is a makeup composition and therefore comprises at least one coloring material.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is a care composition or a top coat not comprising any coloring material.

The term “coloring material” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

A coloring material can be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and their mixtures, soluble or insoluble in the continuous phase of the invention, in this case the oily phase of the invention.

According to a particular mode, the coloring material(s) are chosen in particular from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

By “pigments” we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit. We can cite mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e. pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).

Among the “mineral pigments ” , we can cite, as examples, titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

For compositions intended for the lips, we can cite as examples titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

Among the “organic pigments”, we can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red n° 19; D & C red no. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow No. 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red n° 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D & C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red No. 36 ;; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow no. 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D & C red no. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and lacquers.

In particular, the coloring material(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0% to 20% by weight.

According to a particular mode, the composition does not contain any coloring matter.

According to another mode, it contains coloring materials in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC

The composition of the invention is a solid composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular a composition for the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows, or the lips, preferably the eyelids, the eyebrows and the lips.

According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is a “top-coat” composition, which can be used on any lip makeup composition, to provide a long-lasting matte result (without transfer).

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is a makeup composition in a single gesture, to provide color, matteness and hold (non-transfer).

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a stick, or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup (e.g. lip stick).

In particular it will be a lip stick or a composition in a pot or cup for the lips. According to another particular mode, it will be a pencil liner.

According to another particular method, it will be a stick or a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger or with a brush, for the eyebrows (e.g. eyebrow pencil).

According to another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger, sponge or brush, for the eyelids (e.g. eye shadow).

According to another method, it will be a stick or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable with the finger, with a sponge or with a brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas (e.g. concealer foundation or concealer).

Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, in particular a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, a eye shadow, complexion corrector or concealer.

COSMETIC PROCESS

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials comprising the application, to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyebrows, or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to the invention.

The solid composition applied to the lips is preferably in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or cup.

The method according to the invention is in particular a method of making up the skin and/or lips, intended to deposit a non-transfer film on said skin and/or lips.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. % are expressed as % by weight of ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Selection of vegetable waxes for solid compositions

Several vegetable waxes were tested in a binary mixture with the polyurethane silicone polymer SILMER® UR-5050.

SILMER® UR-5050 includes Bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone/SMDI copolymer at 45% by weight of dry matter in isododecane.

The binary mixture includes 20% wax and 80% Silmer UR-5050 (% raw material).

It is prepared according to the following protocol:

The wax tested and the Silmer UR-5050 are mixed and heated to the melting temperature of the wax, then the mixture obtained is homogenized then poured and cooled in Petri dishes.

Several parameters were evaluated, in particular color, hardness (primary criterion for the selection of waxes suitable for the invention), and hot solubility (95°C).

These parameters are evaluated by a panel of experts:

1 – color

Colored mixtures are not compatible with the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The color rendering, both for the mass composition and for the film applied to the lips, does not conform to that expected from the mixture of pigments used.

The color obtained after cooling the mixture is visually noted according to grades from A to C (“A”-white to light yellow, “B”-yellow to dark; “C”-brown).

We advantageously select the waxes forming with Silmer a mixture whose color is noted “A”.

2 Hot solubility (95°C):

Solubility is evaluated by observing the appearance of the composition with a rating from 1 to 4 (“A” – clear to translucent, “B” – cloudy, “C” – opaque); Waxes are selected for which a hot solubility rating of A is obtained.

3 Hardness

The hardness of the composition is assessed with a finger by pressure on the surface of the composition poured in a Petri dish, and a grade from A to C is given ("A" - hard consistency; "B" - soft consistency – the finger sinks into the surface; “C” – liquid consistency)).

We select the waxes for which a hardness rating of A is obtained;

The compositions are evaluated by a panel of experts, who assign them a score from 1 to 4 for each criterion, as illustrated in the following table 2:

[Table 2]: INCI Witness Invention Invention Tradename Rice wax Carnauba wax Sunflower wax Fusion point 79-85 78-83 73-78 Tradename KAHLWAX 2811 RICE CARNAUBA WAX T1 INA TRADING SUNFLOWER WAX (KOSTER) Color HAS HAS HAS Dissolution B HAS HAS Hardness B HAS HAS

These results show that only the waxes of plant origin chosen from carnauba wax and sunflower wax form a non-colored, homogeneous and translucent mixture when hot, essential for the preparation of a composition according to the invention having acceptable properties. in terms of hold, glide on application and makeup finish.

Other waxes of plant origin may nevertheless be used as optional additional waxes, in association with the waxes according to the invention, depending on the texture and/or sensoriality sought.

Example 2: Examples of formulations

2-1. Lip stick

INGREDIENTS (INCI NAME) % in weight C9-C12 ALKANE Qsp 100 ISODODECANE 15 BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/SMDI COPOLYMER 10 (in weight of MA) PIGMENT 12 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER SEED WAX) 11.3 SILICA 3.0 JOJOBA ESTERS 3 CERA ALBA 3.0 CERA CARNAUBA 1.5

The composition was prepared according to the following protocol:

• heat the mixture of waxes, pastes and oils to 95°C,
• add the pigment phase,
• add load,
• add the polymer
• add the most volatile oil at the end of the process.

The composition obtained is in the form of a stick.

Upon application, the product glides easily on the lips, drawing a clear contour, with a homogeneous, matte, non-sticky and non-transferring deposit.

2-2. Solid eye pencil (eyeliner)

INGREDIENTS (INCI NAME) % C9-C12 ALKANE
ISODODECANE
BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/SMDI COPOLYMER
PIGMENTS (BLACK IRON OXIDES)
HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER SEED WAX)
SILICA
JOJOBA ESTERS
CERA ALBA
DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE
CERA CARNAUBA
PROPYLENE CARBONATE
SODIUM MYRISTOYL GLUTAMATE
ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE
qsp 100
24.0
16.0 (by weight of MA)
9.7
9.0
5
3.0
2.4
1.5
1.2
0.4
0.3
0.05

The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

• heat the mixture of waxes, pastes and oils to 95°C,
• add the pigment phase,
• add load,
• add the polymer,
• add the most volatile oil at the end of the process.

The composition obtained is poured into a pot.

The product is easily applied with a brush, allowing you to obtain a precise and clean line on the eye contour, matte, non-sticky and non-transferring.

2-3. Eyebrow pencil

INGREDIENTS (INCI NAME) % in weight ISODODECANE Qsp 100 BIS-HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE/SMDI COPOLYMER 16 (in weight of MA) DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 3.0 PROPYLENE CARBONATE 0.9 HYDROPHOBIC PROCESSED PIGMENTS 12 HYDROPHOBIC TREATED SILICA 5.0 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER SEED WAX) 9.0

The composition is prepared according to the following protocol:

• heat the sunflower wax to 95°C,
• add the polymer
• add the pigment phase,
• add load,
• add isododecane at the end of the process.

The composition is poured into a pot, a bucket or a pallet.

The product is easily applied with a brush to the eyebrows, allowing you to obtain precise and clean makeup on the eyebrows, matte, non-sticky and non-transferring.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic composition for care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable environment:
a) A silicone-polyurethane polymer,
b) One or more linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, and
c) One or more waxes of plant origin chosen from the group consisting of sunflower wax, carnauba wax, and their mixture. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the total content of sunflower and carnauba waxes ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from pasty fatty substances, additional waxes distinct from waxes c), and their mixtures. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is a wax of natural origin chosen from beeswax, rice wax, candelilla wax, soy wax, rapeseed wax, wax olive, and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone-polyurethane polymer is the reaction product

• of a polyorganopolysiloxane functionalized with hydroxyl groups, in particular corresponding to the structure of formula (I)

in which n is an integer between 0 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 200, more preferably between 10 and 100, and even more preferably between 10 and 50,

• with a diisocyanate compound, in particular chosen from the group consisting of 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, and combinations thereof.

Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone polyurethane polymer is present in a content ranging from 5 to 25%, in particular from 8 to 20%, in particular from 10% to 18% by weight of active material (dry matter) relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear or branched C8-C19 alkane(s) is(are) chosen from the group consisting of branched alkanes such as isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane, hemi-squalane; linear C8-C19 alkanes such as nonane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane, n-nonadecane and their mixtures, in particular mixtures of linear C11/C13 alkanes, C10/C12, C10/C14, and C15/C19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises another additional ingredient chosen from lipophilic gelling agents, fillers, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a pot or a cup, in particular a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, a shadow eyelid, or a complexion corrector or concealer. Cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any one of the claims 1 to 10.