FR3124723A1 - Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an amphoteric surfactant, a fatty substance and a propellant - Google Patents

Abstract

TITLE: Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an amphoteric surfactant, a fatty substance and a propellant The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one specific fatty substance, in the presence of at least one propellant. The invention also relates to an aerosol device containing said composition, as well as a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as skin and hair, using said composition.

Description

Composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an amphoteric surfactant, a fatty substance and a propellant

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one specific fatty substance, in the presence of at least one propellant.

The invention also relates to an aerosol device containing said composition, as well as a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as skin and hair, using said composition.

For washing keratin materials such as in particular the hair and the skin, the use of detergent cosmetic compositions of the type of shampoos and shower gels, essentially based on surfactants, is common. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair or the skin.

Shampoos and body cleansing products are usually in the form of lotions, gels, mousses, creams or sprays. When these products are packaged in the form of sprays or in aerosol devices, they are generally only available in opaque bottles because the compositions commonly used do not have a sufficiently aesthetic appearance, in particular in the presence of a propellant, or even of a liquefied propellant. However, more and more users of body and hair care products are in particular looking for more aesthetic, fluid and limpid, even transparent compositions.

Moreover, these compositions are generally not stable over time or with respect to temperature, which makes their application difficult and non-homogeneous and provides an unpleasant experience for the consumer.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition which does not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which has an attractive and stable aesthetic appearance over time, easy to distribute over all of the hair or the skin. , and which has improved foaming and cleaning (or washing) properties, in particular giving the keratin materials a pleasant and soft feel.

It has now been discovered that a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprising the combination of at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C at atmospheric pressure, in the presence of at least one propellant made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, and in particular to provide a composition that is stable over time, combining an attractive aesthetic appearance with improved foaming properties.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
(i) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
(ii) one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure;
(iii) one or more propellants; And
(iv) water;
the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (i) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention, when it is dispensed by means of a conventional aerosol device, makes it possible in particular to deliver a homogeneous, firm and unctuous foam, having a good hold in the hand.

In addition, the foam formed from the composition according to the invention has good qualities for use. It spreads easily and evenly over keratin materials and has good conditioning and cleansing properties for the hair or skin, as well as good styling properties for the hair where appropriate. After rinsing or not, the composition provides cosmetic properties to keratin materials and in particular a pleasant feel.

Thanks to its formulation and its improved qualities of use and foam, the composition of the invention can be used in various cosmetic treatments for the skin and/or the hair, such as cleansing compositions, conditioners or styling products. .

As a styling product, it makes it possible in particular to obtain good hold of the hair over time in both wet and dry conditions, while providing volume to the hair, without freezing the hairstyle.

In the case of curly hair, the composition according to the invention also makes it possible to obtain good definition, as well as good hold of the curls.

In particular, the composition according to the invention confers flexibility and volume on the hair, providing it with fluid movement, while retaining a natural appearance. It also provides a particularly soft, smooth and pleasant feel to the hair. The hair styled using the composition of the invention is maintained without being fixed, and the styling effects conferred on it persist throughout the day.

The composition according to the invention advantageously has a monophasic appearance, preferably clear, even transparent, which gives it a particularly attractive aesthetic appearance and highly sought after by users. In particular, when it is packaged in a device under pressure, for example of the aerosol type, the propellant(s) are dispersed in the droplets of the emulsion, which gives the composition a particularly aesthetic homogeneous appearance. The aesthetic appearance of the composition according to the invention is also particularly increased when it is packaged in a container which is itself transparent.

Moreover, the permanent dispersion of the propellant(s) makes it possible to make them non-flammable, improving the safety of the final aerosol product and complying with certain regulations, in particular American regulations.

It has also been observed that the composition according to the invention is stable over time, as well as with respect to temperature. In particular, the appearance of the composition according to the invention remains significantly the same after 2 months of storage at ambient temperature (25° C.).

The present invention therefore also relates to an aerosol device comprising:
- a container containing a composition as defined above, and
- A means for spraying said composition.

The present invention further relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably a method for washing and/or conditioning, keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as hair and skin, comprising the application to said materials keratins of a composition as defined previously; said application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.

The present invention also relates to a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above; said application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.

The present invention further relates to a process for styling keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above; said application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

In addition, by "biphasic or multiphasic appearance" is meant a composition comprising at least two distinct phases from one another and superimposed on one another.

The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil particles of which advantageously have a number-average size less than or equal to 200 nm, preferably between 1 and 150 nm, more preferably between 2 and 100 nm, better still between 5 and 50 nm, even more preferably between 5 and 30 nm, or even between 8 and 20 nm.

The emulsion according to the present invention may be a micro- or a nanoemulsion.

The term "microemulsion" means a thermodynamically stable, microscopically heterogeneous and macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two mutually immiscible liquid substances, such as an oily phase and an aqueous phase). The microemulsions can be of the oil-in-water type (O/W or O/W for oil in water), that is to say oil droplets solubilized in the form of direct micelles swollen in a continuous aqueous phase, or water-in-oil type (W/O or W/O for water in oil), that is to say water droplets dissolved in the form of reverse micelles swollen in a continuous oily phase, or else of the bicontinuous type, c that is to say in the form of structures where the water and the oil are co-solubilized, the water and the oil being able to be simultaneously considered as being the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.

Microemulsions are to be differentiated from nanoemulsions which are thermodynamically unstable dispersions of oil or water droplets within a continuous aqueous or oily phase.

Microemulsions are formed by simple mixing of the different constituents, without the need for significant energy input.

In addition, microemulsions generally have a particular microstructure formed of microdroplets whose size is such that light passes through them without being diffused, so that the appearance of this composition is transparent or translucent whereas the appearance of a conventional emulsion is opaque.

The number-average size of the particles (or drops of oil) can be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering. As a device that can be used for this determination, mention may be made of the BROOKHAVEN brand device equipped with an SX 200 optical bench (with 532 nm laser), and a BI 9000 correlator. This device provides a measurement of the diameter average by photon correlation spectroscopy (or PCS: " Photon Correlation Spectroscopy ") which makes it possible to determine the average diameter in number from the polydispersity factor also measured by the device. This measurement can also be carried out with a Zetasizer Nano ZS device from Malvern Instruments which makes it possible to determine the average diameter weighted by the scattered intensity (and not weighted by the mass, the number or the volume), as well as the polydispersity factor .

In addition, the composition according to the invention has a very low polydispersity, that is to say that the size of the particles (or drops of oil) is very homogeneous. The particles present in the composition according to the invention are oily phase droplets comprising the fatty substance(s) (ii) and the propellant(s) (iii), within the continuous aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a composition in the form of an oil-in-water microemulsion comprising:
(i) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
(ii) one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure;
(iii) one or more propellants; And
(iv) water;
the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (i) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention, and in particular according to this particular embodiment, is advantageously transparent. The transparency of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by measuring its turbidity, by turbidimetry (in units of NTU). In the context of the present invention, the turbidity measurements were carried out using a UV-Vis Cary 100 model UV spectrophotometer marketed by the company Agilent. It is also possible to measure the turbidity of the composition using a turbidimeter such as model HI 88713-ISO from the company Hanna Instruments.

The composition according to the invention, and in particular according to this particular embodiment, preferably has a turbidity at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure of less than or equal to 200 NTU units, more preferably less than or equal to 100 NTU units, better even less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and even more preferably less than or equal to 20 NTU units.

Transparency can also be assessed visually when the composition is packaged in a transparent container. According to this method, the composition is transparent if you can clearly read the characters printed on a sheet of paper placed behind the container. The printed characters are preferably in Arial font, greater than or equal to 12.

The composition according to the invention is capable of being obtained by any type of process.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has a monophasic appearance. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “single-phase appearance” means that the composition according to the invention consists, at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, of two or more phases, where one of the phases is dispersed in the other, so that the phases cannot be distinguished from each other with the naked eye.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a clear to transparent fluid, preferably transparent.

(i) Amphoteric surfactants

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, which can be used in the composition according to the present invention, may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain or branched containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 6 )alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20 )alkyl betaines, ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amid(C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following structures (I) and (II) respectively:

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (I)
formula (I), in which:
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably R _a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; And
- X ^- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulphate and ethyl sulphate; or else M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (II)
formula (II), in which:
- B represents the -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX'group;
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z=1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';
- Z′ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R _a 'represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a '-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably R _a ' a group alkyl, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name ^MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

It is also possible to use compounds of formula (III):
R _a ''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (III)
formula (III), in which:
- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z'' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- R _a '' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ''-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; And
- n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (III), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) betaines are advantageously used, such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamphoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), present in the composition according to the invention, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, and advantageously greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, and better still from 7 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines and mixtures thereof. According to this embodiment, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic(s) preferably ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, and better still from 7 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Fats

The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point of less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition of the invention have a melting point strictly lower than 35° C., at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), and more preferably lower than or equal to 28° C. and at atmospheric pressure. atmospheric (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). In other words, the fatty substance or substances used in the composition of the present invention are liquid at 35° C. and at atmospheric pressure, preferably liquid at 28° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

Better still, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition according to the invention are liquid at room temperature, that is to say they have a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C., at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

By “fatty substance”, is meant an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), that is to say with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, in water. They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. They are generally soluble, under the same temperature and pressure conditions, in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Preferably, the fatty substance or substances having a melting point of less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure included in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone.

By “non-silicone fatty substance”, is meant a fatty substance whose structure does not contain any silicon atoms, therefore in particular not comprising any siloxane group. By “silicone fatty substance”, is meant a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom, and more particularly at least one Si—O bond.

The fatty substances that can be used generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. They are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated, and preferably do not contain any —COOH function.

The fatty substance(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention can in particular be chosen from hydrocarbons, triglycerides, fatty esters, fatty acids, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure, and preferably liquid at 28° C. at atmospheric pressure.

By "fatty ester", "fatty alcohol" and "fatty acid" according to the present application, is meant respectively esters, alcohols and acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

By hydrocarbon within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

More particularly, the hydrocarbons which are liquid at 35°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), preferably liquid at 28°C at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from:
- linear or branched C ₆ to C ₁₆ alkanes, optionally cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as that sold under the ^Parléam® brand by the company NOF Corporation, squalane.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from paraffin oils, isoparaffins, petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane, isododecane and mixtures thereof.

In a very particularly preferred variant, the hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from vaseline oil, isoparaffins, isododecane and a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

By fatty ester is meant within the meaning of the present invention an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol.

More particularly, the esters which are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5 Pa), preferably liquid at 28° C. at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic mono- or polyacids, C ₁ to C ₂₆ , optionally hydroxylated, and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, C ₁ to C ₂₆ , the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl palmitates, in particular C ₁ to C ₁₈ , in particular ethyl and isopropyl, alkyl myristates, in particular C ₁ to C ₁₈ , such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, alkyl stearates, in particular C ₁ to C ₁₈ , in particular isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and neopentanoate of isostearyl.

It is also possible to use the esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids, C ₃ to C ₂₂ , optionally hydroxylated, and of C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated and d C ₄ to C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated non-sugar alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, undecylenate of glyceryl, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, erucate tridecyl, triisopropyl citrate, triisotearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisanonate, polyethylene glycol distearates, and alkylmalates, in particular (C ₆ -C ₁₈ )alkylmalates, in particular bis(C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ )alkylmalate. Among the esters mentioned above, ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate, and bis(C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ )alkylmalate. Among the liquid fatty esters, it is possible to use esters and di-esters of sugars and C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , fatty acids.

Isopropyl myristate is particularly preferred.

The term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Preferably, these said sugars are chosen from sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their in particular alkylated derivatives, such than methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and fatty acids C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates, and their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose or else methylglucose dioleate ( ^Glucate® DO) are used.

Among the sugar esters, use may be made of pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetra-iso-stearate, pentaerythrityl tetra-octanoate, hexaesters of caprylic and capric acids mixed with dipentaerythritol.

Among the triglycerides, mention may be made of triglycerides of vegetable origin such as vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides.

More particularly, the said vegetable or synthetic oils are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else , for example sesame, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, bran oils rice, cotton, rose bush, kiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, poppy seed, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, coconut, copra, vernoia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol ^® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. It is also possible to use triacetin (triester of glycerol and acetic acid).

Preferably, the triglycerides used are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 5 Pa), more preferably liquid at 28° C. at atmospheric pressure, triglycerides of plant origin, in particular triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, coconut oil, and triacetin.

By fatty acid is meant a non-salified fatty acid, i.e. the fatty acid must not be in the form of a generally soluble soap, i.e. it must not be salified. by a base.

More particularly, the fatty acids which can be used according to the invention are chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical, preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R is a C ₇ to C ₂₉ alkyl or C ₇ to C ₂₉ alkenyl group, more preferably a C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ alkyl or C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ alkenyl group. R can be substituted by one or more hydroxy groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.

Preferably, the fatty acid(s) liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure, more preferably liquid at 28° C. at atmospheric pressure, are chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition according to the invention contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and they can be saturated or unsaturated.

Saturated non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally include in their structure at least one ring, aromatic or not, preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the non-polyoxyalkylenated saturated fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, decyl-2-tetradecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

Octyldodecanol and decyl-2-tetradecanol are most particularly preferred.

Non-polyoxyalkylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, they are preferably 2 or 3 in number and they may or may not be conjugated.

These non-polyoxyalkylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

They may optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic ring or not. They are preferably acyclic.

More particularly, the non-polyoxyalkylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols which can be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenic) alcohol, undecylenic acid and mixtures thereof.

Oleic alcohol is particularly preferred.

The liquid silicones at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure that can be used in the composition according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25° C., and preferably 1.10 ^-5 at 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the silicones which are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and polyorganosiloxanes which are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicones can also be organomodified. The organomodified liquid silicones at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure that can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work by Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and more particularly still from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE ^® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ^® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as VOLATILE ^SILICONE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa -2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m²/s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are used.

These silicones which are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:
- ^SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or ^MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL ^® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- oils of the 200 series from DOW CORNING, such as DC200, having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL ^® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

As regards the polyorganosiloxanes which are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure comprising at least one aryl group, they can in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- the oils of the RHODORSIL ^® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- amino groups, substituted or not, such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydroxyl groups.

The silicones that are liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure that can be used according to the present invention can also be chosen from amino silicones and mixtures thereof.

The term "amino silicone" denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25° C.) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from:
a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (IV):
(IV)
in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;

b) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (V):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (V)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups:
• -NR''-QN(R'') ₂ ,
• -N(R'') ₂ ,
• -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) are chosen from silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (VI):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) are chosen from the silicones of formula (VII) below:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) are chosen from the silicones of formula (VIII) below:

in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C ₁ -C ₄ , at least one of the radicals R ₁ or R ₂ designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (VII) or (VIII) can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (VII) or (VIII).
A product containing structural amino silicones (VII) is offered by WACKER under the name ^BELSIL® ADM 652.
A product containing amino silicones of structure (VIII) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR ^1300® . Another product containing amino silicones of structure (VII) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG ^1® .

When these amino silicones are implemented, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind, but preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (VIII), use is made of microemulsions whose mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, it is possible to use, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (VIII) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 ^E® or SLM ^28020® by the company WACKER.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (IX):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (X):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g/mol.
A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (XI):

in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; And
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
Such amino silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (XII)

in which :
- R ₇ , which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;
- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; And
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
Such amino silicones are described in particular in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

e) amino silicones of formula (XIII):

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which are identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB) _n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]
or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C ₂ -C ₁₂ , linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R denote a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; And
- R′, which are identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', which are identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferentially R' denote -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by mole of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mole.
The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 g/mol, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000 g/mol.
Mention may in particular be made of the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) amino silicones of formulas (XIV) and (XV):

in which :
- R, R' and R'', which are identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

The following divalent groups may be mentioned in particular:
-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particular mention may be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, R ₁ and R ₂ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XV) with:
- x ranging from 10 to 2000, and in particular from 100 to 1000;
- y ranging from 1 to 100;
- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XV) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

h) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XVIII):
(XVI)
Or
(XVII)
Or
(XVIII)

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin Etsu company.

In formula (XVII), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.
By way of example of amino silicones of formula (XVII), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVIII), the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.
By way of example of amino silicones of formula (XVIII), mention may be made of aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 fluid by the company Dow Corning.

i) and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substance(s) (ii) having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure are preferably chosen from linear or branched C ₆ to C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 atoms carbon of mineral or synthetic origin, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerides, fatty acid and/or alcohol esters, silicones and mixtures thereof; these compounds being liquid at 35° C. at atmospheric pressure, and more preferably liquid at 28° C. at atmospheric pressure.

Advantageously, the fatty substance(s) (ii) having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure are chosen from triglycerides, fatty acid and/or alcohol esters, linear or branched hydrocarbons at more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, silicones and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isopropyl myristate, coconut oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, triacetin, petroleum jelly, liquid paraffin, amodimethicone and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the fatty substance(s) (ii) having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, is preferably greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, more preferably this total content ranges from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.25 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The weight ratio (R) between the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (i) and the total content of fatty substances (ii) having a melting point less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, present in the composition of the invention, is greater than or equal to 1, advantageously greater than or equal to 2, preferably this weight ratio (R) ranges from 2 to 50, more preferably from 5 to 40, and better still from 10 to 35.

(iii) Propellants

The composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more propellants.

The propellant(s) that can be used in the composition of the invention are preferably chosen from liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1,1,1, 2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1-chloro-1,1-difluoroethane, 1,1-difluoroethane; volatile hydrocarbons, such as in particular C ₃ to C ₅ alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane, pentane; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the propellant(s) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, for example n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and their halogenated derivatives; dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; more preferably from dimethyl ether, C ₃ to C ₅ alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, and better still from C ₃ to C ₅ alkanes, in particular propane , n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the propellant(s) used are fully dispersed in the composition before the composition is used for the first time. The term “entirely dispersed in the composition” means that the propellant(s) are entirely present in the droplets of oily phase and/or in the aqueous phase (for example dispersed in the aqueous phase in the form of micelles) of the composition in the form emulsion; or that the total content of the non-dispersed propellant(s) ( ie not present in the emulsion according to the invention) is less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

Advantageously, the total content of the propellant(s), present in the composition according to the invention, is less than or equal to 10% by weight, and preferably less than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition . More preferably, the total content of the propellant(s) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(iv) Water
The composition according to the present invention further comprises water.

The total water content, present in the composition of the invention, is advantageously greater than 40% by weight, and more preferably ranges from 50 to 93% by weight, better still from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise an organic solvent comprising one or more hydroxy function, preferably chosen from monoalcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from polyols, polyol ethers , and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol, PPG-3 methyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the organic solvent(s) comprising one or more hydroxy functions, when they are present in the composition of the invention, advantageously ranges from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight. weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better still from 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants

Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols or fatty acids, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 100 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, derivatives of N-( C ₆ to C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

The nonionic surfactant(s) which can be used according to the present invention may more particularly be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30.

Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols are chosen from nonionic surfactants of formula (XIX):
_RO- (CH2- _CH2 -O) _n -H(XIX)
in which :
R is an alkenyl radical, linear or branched, C ₈ to C ₄₀ , and
n is an integer ranging from 6 to 20.

Preferably, R represents an alkenyl radical, linear or branched, C ₁₂ to C ₃₀ , and more preferably C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ .

Preferably, n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12.

Advantageously, R represents a C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ linear or branched alkenyl radical; and/or n represents an integer ranging from 8 to 12.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) of formula (XIX) are chosen from oleic alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide, oleic alcohol with 10 moles of ethylene oxide, oleic alcohol with 12 moles of ethylene oxide and mixtures thereof; and more preferably the nonionic surfactant of formula (I) is oleic alcohol with 10 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: OLETH-10).

Other polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols such as oleth-3, oleth-5, laureth-4, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20, oleth-30 and mixtures thereof can also be used.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units.

Mention may in particular be made of esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C ₈ -C ₃₀ (preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acids and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of oxide of ethylene which can be chosen from esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as :
- polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21),
- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-20),
- polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (POLYSORBATE-40),
- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-60),
- polyoxyethylene (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-61),
- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-80),
- polyoxyethylenated (5 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-81),
- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan tristearate (POLYSORBATE-65),
- polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan trioleate (POLYSORBATE-85).

The nonionic surfactant(s) which can be used according to the present invention can more particularly be chosen from nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The term "alky(poly)glycoside" denotes an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside also called alkylglycoside in the present application, which can be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably C ₂ to C ₄ .

The nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) used, alone or as a mixture(s), in accordance with the present invention may be represented by the following formula (XX):
R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t (G) _v (XX)
formula (XX), in which:
- R ₁ represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R ₂ represents an alkylene group comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a saccharide unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and
-v designates a value ranging from 1 to 15.

Preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) correspond to formula (XX) in which:
- R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
- G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose,
- t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and
- R ₂ and v are as defined previously.

The degree of polymerization of the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the subscript v in formula (XX) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.

The glycosidic bonds between the saccharide units are 1,6 or 1,4; and preferably in 1,4.

The nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants which can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides represented in particular by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names ^PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE ^® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX ^® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or else those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK, or the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from silicone nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

By silicone compound is meant a compound which comprises at least one (—Si—O—) group.

The silicone surfactants that can be used can be water-soluble, spontaneously water-dispersible or water-insoluble. Preferably, they are water-soluble or spontaneously water-dispersible.

Preferably the silicone surfactants are oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated.

The silicone surfactants can be chosen from the compounds of formulas (XXI), (XXII), (XXIII), (XXIV) and (XXV) below:

in which :
- R ₁ , identical or different, represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, C ₁ -C ₃₀ , or a phenyl radical;
- R ₃ and R ₄ , which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;
- R ₂ , identical or different, represents a group –(CH ₂ )cO-(C ₂ H ₄ O)a'-(C ₃ H ₆ O)b'-R ₅ or else –(CH ₂ )cO-( C ₄ H ₈ O)a'-R ₅ in which a' varies from 0 to 50; b' varies from 0 to 50 and a'+b' is greater than or equal to 1; c varies from 0 to 4; And
- R ₅ , identical or different, is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; a linear or branched alkoxy group, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; a linear or branched acyl group, comprising from 2 to 12 carbon atoms; a hydroxyl group, an -SO ₃ M group, an -OCOR ₆ group, a C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkoxy group optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, optionally carrying at minus one hydroxyl group; a C ₂ -C ₆ aminoacyl group optionally substituted on the amine by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group; an —NHCH ₂ CH ₂ COOM group, an —N(CH ₂ CH ₂ COOM) ₂ group; a C ₁ -C ₁₂ aminoalkyl group, optionally substituted on the amine and on the alkyl chain by one or two C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, a C ₁ carboxyacyl group -C ₃₀ , a phosphono group optionally substituted by one or two substituted C ₁ -C ₁₂ aminoalkyl groups, a -CO(CH ₂ ) _d COOM group, an -OCOCHR ₇ (CH ₂ ) _d COOM group, an -NHCO group (CH ₂ ) _d OH, an -NH ₃ Y group; in which M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, Na, K, Li, NH4 or an organic amine; R ₆ denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, C ₁ -C ₃₀ ; R ₇ denotes a hydrogen atom or an SO ₃ M group; d varies from 1 to 10; and Y represents an anion such as a halide (chloride, bromide), a sulfate, or a carboxylate (acetate, lactate, citrate);
- m varies from 0 to 20;
- m' varies from 1 to 20;
- n varies from 0 to 500;
- p varies from 1 to 50;
- q varies from 0 to 20;
- w varies from 1 to 100;
- a varies from 0 to 50; b varies from 0 to 50; and a+b is greater than or equal to 1, in formula (XXIV).

Preferably, the silicone surfactants correspond to the general formulas (XXI), (XXII) or (XXV) as defined above, and more particularly correspond:
to formulas (XXI) or (XXII) in which at least one, preferably all, of the following conditions are satisfied:
- R ₁ denotes the methyl group;
- R ₂ represents a -(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ group, with c=2 or 3;
- R ₂ represents a group –(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ , with R ₅ representing a hydrogen atom, a group methyl or an acetyl group; preferably a hydrogen atom;
- R ₂ represents a group –(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ , with a' varying from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25;
- R ₂ represents a -(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ group, with b' varying from 0 to 25, preferably b ' is equal to 0;
- n varies from 0 to 100; and or
- p varies from 1 to 20;
or to formula (XXV) in which at least one, preferably all, of the following conditions are satisfied:
- R ₁ denotes the methyl or cetyl group;
- R ₂ represents a -(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ group, with c=2 or 3;
- R ₂ represents a group –(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ , with R ₅ representing a hydrogen atom, a group methyl or an acetyl group; preferably a hydrogen atom;
- R ₂ represents a group –(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ , with a' varying from 1 to 25 and more particularly from 2 to 25;
- R ₂ represents a -(CH ₂ ) _c -O-(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a' -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ group, with b' varying from 0 to 25, preferably from 1 to 20;
- n and q vary from 0 to 100; and or
- m' varies from 1 to 20.

More preferentially, the silicone surfactants can be chosen from the compounds of formula (XXII) in which R ₁ denotes a methyl group, and R ₂ is a group —(CH ₂ ) _c —O—(C ₂ H ₄ O) _{a '} -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b' -R ₅ with c is equal to 2 or 3; a' ranges from 2 to 25, b' ranges from 0 to 25, R ₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; such as the compounds of formula

or the compounds of formula (XXV) such as

wherein R is a cetyl group, X=10, Y=1, n=1 to 200, o=1 to 100, and m=1 to 40 or wherein o and y are 0 and X=11, nn=1 to 200, and m=1 to 40.

By way of example, the nonionic silicone surfactants can be chosen from PEG-dimethicone, such as PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-14 dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and/or alkyl PEG/PPG dimethicone, such as cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-14/4 dimethicone.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicone surfactants sold under the trade names FLUID DC193 and DC 5225C by the company Dow Corning, SILWET ^® L 77 by the company OSI, and MAZIL ^® 756 by the company Mazer PPG, KF-6017 by the company Shin Etsu and Abil EM 90 from Evonik.

Preferably, when they are present, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl(poly)glycosides, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 oxide units of ethylene, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from oleth-10, polysorbate 80, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the nonionic surfactant(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2.5 to 7.5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present in the composition of the invention, the weight ratio (Ra) between the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (i) and the total content of nonionic surfactants is preferably greater than or equal to 1, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprises:
(i) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants;
(ii) one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure;
(iii) one or more propellants;
(iv) water; And
(v) one or more nonionic surfactants;
the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (i) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of surfactants (that is to say the sum of the total contents of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (i), optionally of nonionic surfactants and of any additional surfactants) is preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this total content ranges from 5 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 7.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fixing polymers

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more fixing polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fixing polymer" means any polymer capable, by application to the hair, of conferring a shape on the hair or of allowing the maintenance of an already acquired shape.

All anionic, amphoteric, cationic, nonionic fixing polymers and their mixtures used in the art can be used in the composition according to the present application.

Preferably, the fixing polymer(s) according to the invention are chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof.

The anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5,000,000.

The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono or dicarboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula (XXVI):


(XXVI)
in which
- n is an integer from 0 to 10,
- A ₁ denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulphur,
- R ₇ denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group,
- R ₈ denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group,
- R ₉ denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a –CH ₂ –COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.

In the aforementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably designates a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular, the methyl and ethyl groups.

The preferred anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups according to the invention are:
A) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylic acid)) or their salts.
Among these polymers, mention may be made of copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters, esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1222944 and German Application No. 2330956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit as described in particular in the applications for Luxembourg patent nos. 75370 and ^75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C ₁ to C 4 alkyl methacrylate. C ₂₀ , for example, lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ^ACRYLIDONE® LM (INCI name VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/Nt-butylacrylamide terpolymers such as the products ULTRAHOLD ^® STRONG and ULTRAHOLD ^® 8 marketed by BASF (INCI name Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer), methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / acrylate of tert-butyl such as the products sold under the names LUVIMER ^® 100 P or LUVIMER ^® PRO 55 by the company BASF (INCI name Acrylates copolymer), copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate such as the products sold under the names LUVIMER ^® MAE or LUVIFLEX ^® SOFT by the company BASF (INCI name Acrylates copolymer), acrylic acid/butyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name BALANCE ^® CR by the company AKZO NOBEL (INCI name Acrylates copolymer ), copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate sold under the name ^EUDRAGIT® L 100 by the company ROHM PHARMA (INCI name Acrylates copolymer). Mention may also be made of branched block polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid monomers, such as the product sold under the name ^FIXATE® G-100L by the company LUBRIZOL (INCI name AMP-acrylates/allyl methacrylate copolymer).

B) Crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or propionate units in their chain, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated carboxylic acid, linear or branched, with a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted or crosslinked, or yet another vinyl, allylic or methallyl ester monomer of an α- or β-cyclic carboxylic acid . Such polymers are described inter alia in French ^{patents nos} . INCI names VA / crotonates / vinyldecanoate copolymer and VA / crotonates copolymer respectively). Mention may also be made of the products LUVISET ^® CA 66 sold by the company BASF, ARISTOFLEX ^® A60 sold by the company CLARIANT (INCI name VA / crotonates copolymer) and MEXOMERE ^® PW or PAM sold by the company CHIMEX (INCI name VA / vinyl butyl benzoate/crotonate copolymer).

C) Copolymers of monounsaturated C ₄ -C ₈ carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from:
- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2047398, 2723248, 2102113, patent GB839805. Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names GANTREZ ^® AN or ES by the company ISP, such as GANTREZ ^® ES 225 (INCI name Ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) or GANTREZ ^® ES 425L (INCI name Butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer);
- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or methacrylic ester groups , acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain,
the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are for example described in patents FR2350384 and FR2357241.

D) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.

The fixing polymers with sulfonic acid-derived units can be chosen from:
A′) Homopolymers and copolymers comprising vinylsulfonic, styrene-sulfonic, naphthalene-sulfonic or acrylamido-alkylsulfonic units.
These polymers can be chosen in particular from:
- salts of polyvinylsulfonic acid having a molecular mass of between approximately 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
- salts of polystyrene sulphonic acid such as the sodium salts sold for example under the name ^FLEXAN® II by AKZO NOBEL (INCI name Sodium polystyrene sulphonate). These compounds are described in patent FR 2198719;
- salts of polyacrylamide sulphonic acids such as those mentioned in US patent 4128631, and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropane sulphonic acid sold under the name ^RHEOCARE® HSP-1180 by COGNIS (INCI name polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulphonic acid).

B′) Sulphonic polyesters, these polymers being advantageously obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol or of a mixture of diol and diamine, and of at least one difunctional monomer comprising a function sulfonic. Among these polymers, we can mention:
- linear sulfonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications US 3734874, US 3779993, US 4119680, US 4300580, US 4973656, US 5660816, US 5662893 and US 5674479. Such polymers are for example EASTMAN ^® AQ38S POLYMER products , EASTMAN ^® AQ55S POLYMER, EASTMAN ^® AQ48 ULTRA POLYMER marketed by the company EASTMAN CHEMICAL (name Polyester-5) which are copolymers obtained from diethylene glycol, 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, isophthalic acid and salt of sulfoisophthalic acid.
- branched sulphonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications WO 95/18191, WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899. Such compounds are, for example, the products EASTMAN® ^AQ10D POLYMER (denomination Polyester-13) or EASTMAN® ^AQ1350 POLYMER offered by the company EASTMAN CHEMICAL (denomination Polyester-13).

According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid such as acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tertiobutylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ^ULTRAHOLD® STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers crotonic acid derivatives such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name RESYN 28-2930 by the company AKZO NOBEL, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, by example, under the names GANTREZ ^® ES 425L or ES 225 by the company ISP, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name LUVIMER ^® MAE by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name LUVISET ^® CA 66 by the company BASF and the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted by polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX ^® A60 by the company CLARIANT, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold under the name ACRYLIDONE ^® LM by the company ISP, the polymer sold under the name FIXATE ^® G-100L by the company LUBRIZOL, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid/vinyl p-tert-butylbenzoate copolymers sold under the names ^MEXOMERE® PW or PAM by the company Chimex.

The total content of the anionic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and better still still from 0.3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amphoteric fixing polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C randomly distributed in the polymer chain where B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups, or alternatively B and C can denote groups deriving from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or of sulphobetaines;
B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or indeed B and C are part of a chain of a polymer with an ethylene-α,β-dicarboxylic unit, one of the carboxylic groups of which has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The more particularly preferred amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above are chosen from the following polymers:
(1) copolymers with acidic vinyl units and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Patent No. 3836537.
(2) polymers comprising units deriving from:
a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by an alkyl group,
b) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The more particularly preferred N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tertiobutylacrylamide, N-tertiooctyacrylamide, N -octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tertio-butyl-aminoethyl methacrylates.

Particular use is made of copolymers whose INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names ^AMPHOMER® , ^AMPHOMER® LV71 or ^BALANCE® 47 by the company AKZO NOBEL.
(3) partially or totally crosslinked and acylated polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of general formula (XXVII):
(XXVII)
in which
- R ₁₀ represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or from a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and
- Z denotes a group deriving from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:
a) in the proportions of 60 to 100% by mole, the group (XXVIII)
(XXVIII)
where x=2 and p=2 or 3, or else x=3 and p=2; this group being derived from diethylene-triamine, triethylene-tetraamine or dipropylene-triamine;
b) in the proportions of 0 to 40% by mole, the group (XXVIII) above, in which x=2 and p=1 and which derives from ethylene-diamine, or the group derived from piperazine:

c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the —NH—(CH ₂ ) ₆ —NH— group derived from hexamethylenediamine;
these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide , and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl 2,4,4-adipic, terephthalic acids, double bond acids ethylenic such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids.

The alkane-sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane- or butane-sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula (XXIX):
(XXIX)
in which
- R ₁₁ denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group,
- y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3,
- R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and
- R ₁₄ and R ₁₅ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R ₁₄ and R ₁₅ does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethyl-aminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or acetate of vinyl.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate/methyl-dimethyl-carboxymethylammonio-ethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z-301N or Z-301W by the company CLARIANT (INCI name Acrylates copolymer).
(5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units corresponding to the following formulas (D), (E) and (F):
the unit (D) being present in proportions comprised between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions comprised between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions comprised between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), R ₁₆ represents a group of formula (XXX):
(XXX)
in which :
if q=0, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more atoms nitrogen and/or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ being in this case a hydrogen atom;
or if q=1, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
(6) The polymers containing units corresponding to the general formula (XXXI) are, for example, described in French patent FR 1400366:
(XXXI)
in which R ₂₀ represents a hydrogen atom, a CH ₃ O-, CH ₃ CH ₂ O-, phenyl group, R ₂₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R ₂₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, R ₂₃ denotes a lower C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R ₂₄ -N(R ₂₂ ) ₂ , R ₂₄ representing a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ , -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, R ₂₂ having the meanings mentioned above above.
(7) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl-chitosan or N-carboxybutyl-chitosan, such as for example the product sold under the name CHITOGLYCAN by the company SINERGA SPA (INCI name: Carboxymethyl chitosan) .
(8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type chosen from:
a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on the compounds comprising at least one unit of formula (XXXII):
-DXDXD- (XXXII)
where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E', the same or different E or E' denotes a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted or substituted main chain. hydroxyl groups and which may additionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane.
b) The polymers of formula (XXXIII):
-DXDX- (XXXIII)
where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E' is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group, having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or not by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betainized by reaction with the acid chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

(9) (C ₁ -C ₅ )alkylvinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam.

Among the amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above which are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylamino ethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER ^® , AMPHOMER ^® LV 71 or BALANCE ^® 47 by the company AKZO NOBEL and those of family (4) such as methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethyl-carboxymethylammonio-ethyl methacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z- 301N or Z-301W by CLARIANT.

The total content of the amphoteric fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and better still further from 0.3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cationic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly linked to it, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and about 5,000,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 3,000,000.

Among these polymers, mention may more particularly be made of the following cationic polymers:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulas:

in which :
- R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ group;
- A is a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R ₄ , R ₅ , R ₆ , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; And
- X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C ₁ to C alkyl groups ₄ , groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyl-amino-ethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name ^HERCOFLOC® by the company HERCULES,
- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxy-ethyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride described for example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxy-ethyl-trimethyl-ammonium methosulfate such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylamino-alkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name “ ^GAFQUAT® ” by the company ISP, such as for example “ ^GAFQUAT® 734” or “ ^GAFQUAT® 755” or else the products called “COPOLYMER ^® 845, 958 and 937”. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,
- fatty chain polymers with a vinylpyrrolidone motif, such as the products sold under the names Styleze W20 and Styleze W10 by the company ISP,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl-capro-lactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, and
- And quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethyl-amino-propyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the products marketed under the name “ ^GAFQUAT® HS 100” by the company ISP.

(2) cationic guar gums, preferably containing quaternary ammonium, such as those described in American patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 by the company MEYHALL.

(3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole;

(4) chitosans or their salts; the salts that can be used are in particular the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate.
Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name KYTAN BRUT STANDARD by the company ABER TECHNOLOGIES, the chitosan pyrrolidone-carboxylate sold under the name KYTAMER ^® PC by the company AMERCHOL.

(5) cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- , hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.
The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name “CELQUAT L 200” and “CELQUAT H 100” by the National Starch Company.

The total content of the cationic fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and better still further from 0.3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The nonionic fixing polymers which can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:
- polyalkyloxazolines;
- vinyl acetate homopolymers;
- vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and maleic ester, for example, dibutyl maleate;
- homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company ROHM GmbH under the name EUDRAGIT ^® NE 30 D (INCI name acrylates copolymer);
- copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates;
- styrene homopolymers;
- styrene copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; styrene and butadiene copolymers; or copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine;
- polyamides;
- vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers marketed for example under the names LUVISKOL ^® K30 powder by the company BASF or PVP K30L or K60 solution or K90 by the company ISP, or such as polyvinylcaprolactam marketed under the name LUVISKOL ^® PLUS by BASF (INCI name PVP);
- vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name LUVITEC ^® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those marketed under the name PVP/VA ^® S630L, E735, E635, W735 by the company ISP, ^LUVISKOL® VA 73, VA 64, VA 37 by the company BASF (INCI name VP/VA copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole terpolymers, for example that marketed under the name ^LUVISET® CLEAR by the company BASF (INCI name VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer).
The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The total content of the nonionic fixing polymer(s), present in the composition according to the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use fixing polymers of the grafted silicone type, comprising a polysiloxane part and a part consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.

These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-A-0412704, EP-A-0412707, EP-A-0640105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0582152 and WO 93/23009 and US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037.

These polymers can be amphoteric, cationic, anionic or nonionic, and they are preferably anionic or nonionic.

Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers which can be obtained by radical polymerization from the mixture of monomers formed:
a) from 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate,
b) from 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid,
c) from 5 to 40% by weight of a silicone macromer of formula

where v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the percentages by weight being calculated with respect to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting link of the thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly((meth)acrylate type), and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting link of the thiopropylene type, polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylate isobutyl type .

Grafted silicone polymers are for example marketed under the names SILICONE PLUS POLYMER® ^VS80 and VA70 by 3M (INCI names Polysilicone-8 and Polysilicone-7 respectively).

As another type of silicone fixing polymers, mention may be made of the product ^LUVIFLEX® SILK marketed by the company BASF (INCI name PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates Copolymer).

The total content of the grafted silicone-type fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight. , and better still from 0.3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to use, as fixing polymers, polyurethanes, functionalized or not, siliconed or not, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric, or mixtures thereof.

The polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297 of which the applicant is the holder, as well as in applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 from BASF, and EP 0 619 111 from National Starch.

As polyurethanes which are particularly suitable in the present invention, mention may be made of the products marketed under the names LUVISET ^PUR® and ^LUVISET® Si PUR by the company BASF (INCI names Polyurethane-1 and Polyurethane-6 respectively).

The total content of the polyurethane(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more fixing polymers chosen from nonionic fixing polymers, anionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from anionic fixing polymers and mixtures thereof; and better still chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides , phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid or its esters, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the fixing polymer(s), when they are present in the composition of the invention, preferably ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise sodium chloride, in a total content preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

The composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional compounds different from the compounds defined above, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric polymers different from polymers fixing agents defined above, thickeners, silicones other than silicones defined above, fatty substances other than fatty substances (ii) defined previously, antioxidants, penetrating agents, conditioning agents, UV filters, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents, lubricants (or anti-caking agents) and their mixtures.

Preferably, when the additional compound(s) above are present in the composition according to the invention, the additional compound(s) are generally present in a content comprised for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition of the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 7.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents or acidifying agents usually used. Among the basifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of ammonia, alkanolamines, mineral or organic hydroxides. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of examples, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as for example acetic acid, tartaric, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

The invention also relates to an aerosol device comprising:
- a container containing a composition as defined above, and
- A means for spraying said composition.

Preferably, the aerosol device according to the invention makes it possible to deliver said composition in the form of a foam.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example one-piece, which comprises a spray means and a container.

The spray means generally consists of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle through which the composition of the invention is sprayed, preferably in the form of a foam. By way of example of an aerosol device that can be used according to the present invention, mention may in particular be made of plastic aerosols equipped with a 2×0.51 mm GI valve and a DMPR229 diffuser .

The container containing the pressurized composition can be opaque or transparent. It can be made of glass, polymeric material or metal, and possibly covered with a layer of protective varnish.

Preferably, the container of said aerosol device is transparent, so that the composition according to the invention is visible to the naked eye through said container.

A subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably a method for washing and/or conditioning, keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application to said materials keratins of a composition as defined previously; this application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.

Thus, a subject of the present invention is also a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined above; this application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.

Preferably, the application of the composition according to the invention is followed by rinsing.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin materials. Preferably, it is applied to moist keratin materials. At the end of the process, the keratin materials can optionally be dried or left to dry.

By “keratin materials”, in the present invention is meant the skin and the scalp, and the keratin fibers such as in particular the hair. More preferably, the keratin materials are the hair.

When the composition of the invention comprises one or more fixing polymers, the cosmetic treatment process of the invention is preferably a styling process, that is to say shaping and/or fixing, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

When the cosmetic treatment process is a styling process, the application of the composition according to the invention is preferably not followed by rinsing.

In a first embodiment of the styling process according to the invention, the composition is applied to damp hair.

In a second embodiment of the styling process according to the invention, the composition is applied to dry hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples

To. Preparation of formulation juices

The juices of formulations A1 to A3 according to the invention and the juice of the following comparative formulation B1 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% by weight of active ingredient). A1 A2 A3 B1 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 15 15 15 4.9 Oleth-10 - 5 - - Cocoglucoside - - 5 - Isopropyl myristate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

b. Protocol
The formulation juices were prepared according to the following protocol:
The surfactants were solubilized in water. Then, the fatty substance was added to the mixture with simple stirring in order to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion. The turbidity and particle size measurements were carried out at the end of this stage for obtaining the emulsion and before pressurizing the formulations.

The turbidity and particle size measurements of the juices of formulations A1 to A3 and B1 were carried out before introducing the propellants and pressurizing the compositions.

The turbidity was measured using a UV-Vis model Cary 100 UV spectrophotometer marketed by the company Agilent. The number-average size of the oil drops in the juices of formulations A1 to A3 and B1 was determined by the quasi-elastic light scattering method using a Zetasizer Nona ZS device from Malvern Instruments. .

vs.Results
The results obtained for each of the juices of formulations A1 to A3 and B1 are expressed in the table below. A1 A2 A3 B1 Particle size (nm) 4.7 ± 0.3 5.9±0.6 7.4±0.9 > 400 Turbidity (NTU) 5.1 5.0 5.3 Not transparent

The propellants (isobutane/butane/propane mixture 56/24/20) were then added to the juices of formulations A1 to A3 and B1, according to a juice/gas ratio: 95/5. The compositions A1 to A3 and B1 thus obtained were then packaged in transparent PET aerosol devices fitted with a DMPR229 diffuser and a 2x0.51 mm GI valve, and pressurized.

The pressurized compositions A1 to A3 according to the invention remain monophasic and transparent, while the pressurized composition B1 is not transparent.

Furthermore, the single-phase appearance and the transparency of compositions A1 to A3 are stable over time. In particular after 2 months of storage at ambient temperature (25° C.), the appearance of these formulations has not changed. Conversely, two distinct phases form rapidly with an opaque upper phase for the comparative composition B1. And this distinction of phases is accentuated over time, in particular after 24 hours of storage at ambient temperature .

The compositions A1, A2 and A3 according to the invention distributed using the aerosol device make it possible to obtain a uniform, firm and creamy foam which fits well in the hand and is easily and uniformly applied to the whole of the hair. Compositions A1, A2 and A3 also provide good detergency properties with, in addition, a conditioning effect on the hair thus treated.

Claims (17)

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
(i) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
(ii) one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 35° C. at atmospheric pressure;
(iii) one or more propellants; And
(iv) water;
the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (i) being greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl amido(C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamphoacetates, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines, and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylamido(C ₃ -C ₈ )alkyl betaines and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (i) ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 7 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) (ii) have a melting point of less than or equal to 28°C at atmospheric pressure, and are preferably chosen from C ₆ to C ₁₆ linear or branched, linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms of mineral or synthetic origin, non-polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acids, triglycerides, esters of acids and/or alcohols fats, silicones and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance(s) (ii), having a melting point less than or equal to 35°C at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight, preferably ranges from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.25 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (i) and the total content of fatty substances (ii), having a melting point less than or equal to 35 ° C at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2, more preferably ranges from 2 to 50, better still from 5 to 40, and even more preferably from 10 to 35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant(s) (iii) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, dimethyl ether, and mixtures thereof; preferably from dimethyl ether, C ₃ to C ₅ alkanes, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from C ₃ to C ₅ alkanes and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from propane, n-butane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the propellant(s) (iii) ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total water content is greater than or equal to 40% by weight, preferably ranges from 50 to 93% by weight, and more preferably from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, alkyl(poly)glycosides, fatty acid esters of ethoxylated sorbitans having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from oleth-10, polysorbate 80, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, PEG -11 methyl ether dimethicone, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total content of the nonionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 2.5 to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition. Composition according to Claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (i) and the total content of nonionic surfactants is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably greater than or equal to 1 .5 Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the turbidity of the said composition, measured by turbidimetry at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 200 NTU units, preferably less than or equal to 100 NTU units, more preferably less than or equal to 50 NTU units, and better still less than or equal to 20 NTU units. Aerosol device comprising:
- a container containing a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, and
- A means for spraying said composition. Aerosol device according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the container is transparent. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably washing and/or conditioning process, in particular human keratin materials such as hair and skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 13; said application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time. Process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13; said application being followed or not by rinsing after a possible exposure time.