FR3111815A1 - Process for treating keratin materials comprising the application of a mixture of a composition comprising a liquid fatty substance and a solid fatty substance and of an aqueous composition comprising a surfactant. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application of a mixture of a composition in the form of a mousse obtained from a composition A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance and an aqueous composition B comprising at least one surfactant.

Description

Process for treating keratin materials comprising the application of a mixture of a composition comprising a liquid fatty substance and a solid fatty substance and of an aqueous composition comprising a surfactant.

The invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, comprising the application of a mixture of a composition in the form of a mousse obtained from a composition A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance and an aqueous composition B comprising at least one surfactant.

The treatment of keratin materials, such as in particular the hair and the skin, is very important. It includes, in particular, the coloring or lightening of the hair, the shaping of the hair, the cleaning of the skin or the hair, the conditioning of the skin or the hair, the aesthetic care of the skin, the sun protection or makeup.

In the field of washing and/or conditioning keratin materials, in particular human materials, and better still skin and hair, it is possible to use shower gels and conditioning shampoos. The latter are generally formulated on the basis of micellar aggregates of surfactants.

When using a foaming product, whether for the hair or for the skin, it is sought to have a product giving good qualities of foam, that is to say a foam that forms easily and quickly, in abundant quantity, with a firm texture and good hold (not runny), and which rinses off quickly.

However, it has been found that obtaining a foam of satisfactory quality and quantity, which retains these properties, in particular of quality and quantity over time, could be improved.

The existing compositions also have the disadvantage of requiring a lot of rinsing water in order to remove the excess product from the keratin materials. In many countries where access to water is restricted, the rinsing time and therefore the quantity of water needed to properly rinse the product are key indicators of the usability of a composition.

In the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular human materials, and better still skin and hair, care gels or creams can be used. However, these compositions are not always stable over time and their qualities of application to the hair or the skin are not always optimal (difficult to spread, to distribute, for example).

In the field of coloring, for a long time, many people have sought to modify the color of their hair, and in particular to color it, for example, in order to mask their white hair.

To color human keratin fibres, there are mainly two methods.

The first type of coloring is so-called permanent or oxidation coloring, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds.

It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors.

The second type of coloring is so-called semi-permanent coloring or direct coloring, which consists in applying direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for said fibers to the keratin fibers, leaving them to pause, then rinsing them.

In order to produce these dyes, the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes.

Most colorings with natural dyes, such as henna and indigo in particular, are difficult to achieve and have several drawbacks. Indeed, a kind of "paste" (often called "poultice") is first made from crushed or powdered leaves, which is then diluted at the time of use with hot water, then said paste is applied to the keratin fibres.

In addition, during the preparation and application of the composition to the keratin fibers, it is not always possible to obtain satisfactory impregnation due to the low consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder . Indeed, during mixing and soaking, lumps form and are then difficult to break.

In addition, the poultice tends to dry on the head during the exposure time, which makes rinsing difficult.

Preparation and coloring processes with natural dyes are relatively complex and time-consuming.

There is therefore a real need to develop methods for treating keratin materials such as the hair and the skin which use compositions with new galenics which are stable over time, easy to apply and which rinse off easily, while providing good cosmetic and sensory properties to keratin materials, in particular in terms of softness, without feeling of a greasy feel.

In particular, there is a real need to develop a coloring process using direct dyes or oxidation dyes, in particular natural dyes, such as natural plant powder, which are more practical, more stable, which rinse off more easily. , are faster and easier to implement than conventional coloring methods while still being able to produce satisfactory coloring, for example powerful and intense colorings.

It has been discovered that the mixture of a composition comprising at least one fatty substance having a melting point lower than or equal to 25°C and at least one fatty substance having a melting point higher than 25°C in the form of a mousse with an aqueous composition comprising at least one surfactant made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Indeed, this particular process makes it possible to generate, by shearing, a foam which, after mixing with an aqueous composition comprising at least one surfactant, leads to a composition having a firm and stable texture over time, which is smooth, with good qualities of use, in particular in terms of ease of application and distribution on keratin materials and rinsability.

The subject of the invention is therefore a method for treating human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair, comprising:
i) the generation of a foam from a composition A comprising:
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C,
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25°C; And
ii) mixing composition A in the form of a foam with an aqueous composition B comprising one or more surfactant(s);
iii) the application of the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin materials, such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a foam which has a firm and creamy texture and allows easy spreading and distribution of the product on keratin materials, and in particular the hair. When the process uses one or more dye(s), it also makes it possible to obtain good dyeing properties. Advantageously, the composition resulting from the mixing of composition A in the form of a foam and of the aqueous composition B is an oil-in-water emulsion in the form of a foam.

A subject of the invention is also a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition A as defined above and in a second compartment a composition B as defined above.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, the term “ stable compositions ” means compositions for which no phase shift or creaming is observed during storage in the absence of light at a temperature of 25° C. to 45° C., for at least 2 days, preferably for at least one week, more preferably for at least 2 weeks, more preferably for at least 1 month.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Composition A

Composition A used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

The term “ fatty substance ” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Liquid fatty substances
Composition A according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C., at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa). In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “liquid fatty substance(s)” or “oil”.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

“Non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing no Si—O bonds and “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si—O bond.

Preferably the liquid fatty substances are non-silicone.

More particularly, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. according to the invention are chosen from liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and their mixtures.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. of carbon. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the framework of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

Composition A may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and fatty acids C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

The silicone oils that can be used in composition A according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2/ s at 25° C., and preferably 1.10 −5 at 1 m2/s.

Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work by Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa -2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 −6 m²/s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are used.

These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which there may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:
- the SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- 200 series oils from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they can in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1×10 −5 to 5×10 −2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- amino groups, substituted or not, such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from sunflower oil, soybean oil , olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. present in composition A according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75 % by weight, more preferably from 75 to 98% by weight, and better still from 80 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, composition A does not comprise liquid silicone fatty substances.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. present in composition A according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferably from 75 to 98% by weight, and better still from 80 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solid fatty substances
Composition A according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) . In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “solid fatty substance(s)”.

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

Preferably, the solid fatty substances are non-silicone.

The fatty substance or substances having a melting point above 25° C. are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides , mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty acids”, is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the fatty acid or acids are chosen from behenic acid and arachidic acid.

By “fatty alcohol”, is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachydic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and from Saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols. or C2-C26 pentahydroxylated.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40° C. and which can go up to at 200° C., and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically detectable and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Bran Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricury Wax, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, and Sumac Wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention may also be made of C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

Mention may also be made of the polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, the hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; particular mention may be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

The ceramides or analogues of ceramides such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; particular mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be employed preferably correspond to the following formula: R³CH(OH)CH(CH₂GOLD²)(NHCOR¹), in which :
R ¹ denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C fatty acids₁₄-VS₃₀, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid at C₁₆-VS₃₀;
R ² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
R ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon group₁₅-VS₂₆, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C alkyl groups₁-VS₁₄; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C alpha-hydroxyalkyl group₁₅-VS₂₆, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C alpha-hydroxy acid₁₆-VS₃₀.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C fatty acids₁₆-VS₂₂;R ² denotes a hydrogen atom andR ³ denotes a saturated linear group at C₁₅.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ³ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2) ₁₂ -CH3 group.

It is also possible to use the compounds for whichR ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C fatty acids₁₂-VS₂₂;R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical andR ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon radical₁₂-VS₂₂, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a group -CH=CH-(CH2)₁₂-CH3.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, and their mixtures.

The total content of fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. advantageously ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. advantageously ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition A.

The weight ratio in composition A between the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C is advantageously higher or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than 5, preferably ranges from 5 to 15, better ranges from 6 to 12.

The weight ratio between the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C is advantageously higher or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than 5, preferably ranges from 5 to 15, better ranges from 6 to 12.

Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25 ° C) is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 90% by weight, better still greater than or equal at 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a greater than 25°C) is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 90% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, composition A is anhydrous.

By " anhydrous composition ", is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition comprising a water content less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5 % by weight, more preferably still less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the anhydrous compositions according to the invention are completely free of water (0%).

Aqueous composition B

The coloring process according to the invention uses an aqueous composition B .

Composition B comprises water in a total content which may range from 50 to 99% by weight, preferably from 60 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

The aqueous composition B comprises one or more surfactants.

Surfactants

Composition B according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants. These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

The term “ anionic surfactant ” means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates , alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfo-acetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C1-C4) -N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amido-ether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulphate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters.

Very particularly, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, sulphated surfactants such as alkyl sulphates or alkyl ether sulphates, and acylglutamates , more preferably alkyl sulphates, are preferably used.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. , said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₃ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl) )amido(C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following structures ( A1 ), ( A2 ) and ( A3 ), respectively:
- Ra-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N+(R _b )(R _c )(CH2COO-) ( A1 )
in which: Ra represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- R'a-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') ( A2 )
in which: B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX', B' represents -(CH ₂ )z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X' represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom, Y' represents –COOH, –COOZ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or CH ₂ -CHOH -SO ₃ Z', Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine, R'a represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C ₁₀ at C ₃₀ of an R'a-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group;
- Ra''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ )nCONH(CH ₂ )n'-N(Rd)(Re) ( A3 )
in which: Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z''; Rd and Re , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z'' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra'' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; n and n' , independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

These compounds of formula ( A1 ) or ( A2 ) are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

Among the compounds of formula (A3), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C 3 -C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines such as cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition B of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols or fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example , from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)- aminopropylmorpholine.

The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides.

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in composition B according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the general formula (X) next :
(X)
in which the groups R₈to R₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈to R₁₁comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups, C alkoxy groups₁-VS₃₀, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-VS₆), C-alkylamide₁-VS₃₀, alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)amidoalkyl(C₂-VS₆), alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)acetate, and hydroxy-C₁-VS₃₀,X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)- or alkyl(C₁-VS₄)aryl sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium , cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or marketed stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula ( XI ) below:
(XI)
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides , phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts in particular of formula ( XII ) below:
( XII )
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18 , R19 , R20 and R21 group, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula ( XIII ) below:
( XIII )
wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, C1-C22 hydrocarbon R27 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, C1-C6 hydrocarbon R29 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated. or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C1-C4) sulphate, alkyl (C1-C4)- or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl-sulphonate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
The anion X − is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.
The ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r , s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, the of hydrogen, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of the salts, in particular the chloride or the methyl sulphate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from surfactants having an HLB value greater than or equal to 7, preferably an HLB value ranging from 7 to 18.

The term HLB (from the English “Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25° C. within the meaning of Griffin.

By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is meant the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The value of HLB according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulphated anionic surfactants, such as alkyl sulphates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants, better still from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglucosides, such as: coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside and decyl glucoside.

Preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) in composition B preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight. weight, even better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of fatty substances (that is to say, of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25° C. and of the fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25 ° C) and the total content of the surfactant(s) in the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions A and B is greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30.

Direct dye(s)

Composition A and/or composition B of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

These additional direct dyes can be synthetic or natural.

By "direct dye" is meant colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

They can be ionic or non-ionic.

These synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitrated (hetero )aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine such as cyanines or hemicyanines, styryls, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine, fluorescent dyes and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryl dyes; carbonyls; azines; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri-(hetero)aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

The direct dye(s) useful according to the invention may contain one or more quaternized cationic chromophore or one or more chromophore bearing a quaternized or quaternizable cationic group.

As direct dye useful according to the invention, mention may be made of acridine dyes; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azo, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthropes; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindins; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudo-indigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isovianthrone; lactones; (poly)methines such as dimethines of the stilbene or styryl type; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, in particular nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; periones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrone; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthropes; pyronins; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squares; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

For cationic azo dyes, particular mention may be made of those derived from the cationic dyes described in the Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & sons, updated on 04/19/2010.

Among the azo dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

Among the nitrobenzene dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-6-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Azo dyes include: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

Among the hydrazono dyes, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

Among the aryl nitro dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N′- bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

Among the triarylmethane dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; among the cationic triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: Basic Green 1; Basic Violet 3; Basic Purple 14; Basic Blue 7; Basic Blue 26.

Quinone dyes include: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5- β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

Among the azine dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

Examples of indoamine dyes include: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-(β-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'- methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1, 4-benzoquinone imine.

Among the fluorescent dyes, mention may be made of: the radicals resulting from the dyes acridines, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN) methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN}bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolo-pyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (including cyanines and styryls/hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamine (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, periones , perinones, perylenes, polyenes/carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.

By natural dyes is meant any dye or dye precursor having at least one natural occurrence and produced by extraction (and possibly purification) from a plant matrix, or by grinding. Natural dyes can also be obtained by fermentation.

The natural dye(s) are, for example, chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, anthragallol, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinusolin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, orceins, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin, brazilein, santaline, santarubin, carthamine, flavonoids (with for example morine, apigenidin, quercetin), anthocyanins (of the apigenidin type), carotenoids, or mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use extracts, decoctions or ground materials (such as powders), containing these natural dyes and in particular extracts, decoctions or ground materials obtained for example from henna, pernambuco wood, logwood, sandalwood, sorrel , turmeric, madder, indigo, sorghum, cochineal, carrots, annatto, murex, brazilwood, safflower.

Preferably, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, chlorophyllin, extracts of sorghum, orceins, cochineal carmine, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin and brazilein, extracts of logwood, or sorrel or Brazilwood and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are chosen from natural dyes.

According to this embodiment, more preferably, the direct dye or dyes are chosen from natural dyes in powder form.

When the natural dye or dyes are in powder form, the powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit size corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve, particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to a particular mode of the invention, the size of the particles of the powder is fine.

According to the invention, the size of the particles of the powder is preferably less than or equal to 500 μm.

Preferably, the powder consists of particles with a size comprised inclusively between 10 and 300 μm and more particularly between 50 and 250 μm.

It is understood that said particles preferably have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dye(s), if present, are contained in composition B .

When it comprises some, composition A may comprise one or more direct dyes in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, better still, from 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

When it comprises some, composition B may comprise one or more direct dyes in a total content ranging from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, better still, from 0.05 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Oxidation dye(s)
Composition A and/or composition B of the process according to the invention may or may comprise one or more oxidation dye(s).

Oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more coupling agents.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 -fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para -phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropy l)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4' -aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding acid addition salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para- phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine , 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding acid addition salts.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N ,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl )-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.

Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino- 3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β- hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding acid addition salts.

Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the salts of corresponding additions.

Among the heterocyclic bases which may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in the application of patent FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin- 4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine , 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid- 3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazol o[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl) amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin -6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts.

More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by:
a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;
b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; Or
c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine , 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 -tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino -3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyr azole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5- diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts. It is also possible to use 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt.

The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino -3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1, 2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2 -amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1, 2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6- hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one.

2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt will preferably be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1 will be used. -one and/or a corresponding salt as heterocyclic bases.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more coupling agents advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.

Among these coupling agents, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.

Mention may be made, for example, of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1-ß-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N -methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N-(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2 ,6-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5 -one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6- methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß–hydroxyeth yl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.

In general, the addition salts of oxidation bases and of coupling agents which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oxidation dye or dyes, if present, are contained in composition B .

When it comprises some, composition A may comprise one or more oxidation bases in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

When it comprises some, composition B can comprise one or more oxidation bases in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

When it comprises some, composition A can comprise one or more coupling agents in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

When it comprises some, composition B can comprise one or more coupling agents in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Additives

Compositions A and/or B according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives, pigments and organic solvents other than the fatty substances described above.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives may generally be present in an amount comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, composition A used in the process according to the invention is in the form of a gel.

The consistency of the gel can be characterized by penetrometry. Preferably, the gel has a minimum penetration force greater than or equal to 100 g, more preferably ranging from 220 to 500 g.

The penetration force can be measured as follows: a cylindrical rod consisting of a cylindrical cell (diameter 2 cm) is made to penetrate the product at a fixed speed up to a predefined penetration distance, then to extract the probe of the product at this same speed. The curve of the force exerted by the product on the probe (expressed in g) as a function of time is recorded. Measurements can be made on a Swantech TA.XT PLUS Texturometer, in 30mL pots, with a force search speed of 10.00 mm/sec and a penetration speed of 0.30 mm/sec ., and a penetration distance traveled of 10.00mm.

Process

The process for treating keratin materials, such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair, of the invention comprises:
i) the generation of a foam from composition A as described previously,
ii) mixing composition A in foam form with aqueous composition B as described above, and
iii) the application of the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair.

Preferably, step i) of generating the foam is carried out by mechanical shearing of composition A. The shearing can be carried out for example with a whisk, an electric beater, an expansion system by air injection, or even a pump bottle equipped with a push button.

Stage i) of generating the foam can be carried out at the time of use, just before stage ii) of mixing with composition B , or else long before and stored.

Preferably, step i) of generating the foam is carried out at the time of use, just before step ii) of mixing with the aqueous composition B , more preferably 30 seconds to 24 hours before step ii) more preferably still 1 minute to 2 hours, better still 1 minute to 30 minutes before step ii) .

Preferably, step ii) of mixing with the aqueous composition B is carried out at the time of use, just before application, more preferably 30 seconds to 24 hours before application, even more preferably 1 minute to 2 hours, better still 1 minute 30 minutes before application.

According to a preferred embodiment, the method according to the invention is a hair dyeing method comprising:
i) the generation of a foam from composition A as described above,
ii) mixing composition A in foam form with aqueous composition B as described above, and
iii) applying the mixture obtained in step ii) to the hair;
composition A and/or composition B comprising one or more dyes.

According to this embodiment, composition A may comprise one or more dye(s) chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from direct dyes, more preferably chosen from natural dyes . According to this embodiment, the dye(s) may or may be mixed with the other compounds of composition A during its manufacture. As a variant, the dye(s) can be mixed extemporaneously at the time of use with composition A , before the foam is generated, the dye then preferably being introduced in powder form.

According to this embodiment, the aqueous compositionBcan comprise one or more dye(s) chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from direct dyes, more preferably chosen from natural dyes.

According to a preferred variant of the hair dyeing process, the aqueous composition B comprises at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from direct dyes, more preferably chosen from natural dyes.

According to this variant, composition B comprising one or more dyes can be prepared in advance and stored, preferably, it is obtained extemporaneously at the time of use by mixing with the dye(s).

When the composition(s) A and/or B comprises or comprise one or more oxidation dye(s), the dyeing process according to the invention comprises a step ii)' of mixing a composition comprising at least one agent oxidant, such as H ₂ O ₂ with the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions A and B as defined above obtained in step ii) .

Preferably, when mixing the dyes with the aqueous composition B, the temperature of the aqueous composition B is between 10 and 100°C, better still between 40 and 100°C.

In particular when the dyes are natural dyes, the aqueous composition B is preferably hot, in particular it is at a temperature of between 50 and 100°C.

Preferably, composition B is obtained by mixing the dye(s) and water with a weight ratio of the amount of dye(s) relative to the amount of water ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, more preferably 0.2 to 1, more preferably 0.25 to 0.5.

Composition B is incorporated into composition A , which is already in the form of a mousse. The mixing is carried out with weak agitation, for example using a spatula or using a rotor-stator.

Composition A and composition B are mixed with a weight ratio of the amount of composition A relative to the amount of composition B ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 3, better still ranging from 0.3 to 1.5.

The mixture obtained, depending on whether it is intended for the care, cleaning, conditioning, coloring or shaping of keratin materials, can be applied to dry or wet keratin materials, which may have been washed beforehand.

If the mixture is intended to color the hair, it is applied according to an exposure time which can range from 10 minutes to 2 hours, preferably from 30 to 60 minutes. Preferably, the step of applying the mixture according to the invention is followed by a step of rinsing the keratin materials, preferably with water. At the end of the treatment process, the keratin materials optionally undergo washing followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

set

Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device or “kit” for hair treatment comprising at least 2 compartments.

According to a first variant, the device with several compartments comprises at least one compartment comprising a composition A as defined above and a second compartment comprising a composition B as defined above.

According to a second variant, when composition A and/or composition B comprises or comprise one or more oxidation dye(s), the multi-compartment device comprises a third compartment comprising at least one oxidizing agent such as H ₂ O ₂ .

According to a variant, the device according to the invention further comprises an additional composition comprising one or more treatment agents.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by appropriate means of application, which are identical or different, such as paintbrushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means making it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples

In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated in mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Composition A1 according to the present invention and comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

A1 (rev) A2 (comp) Sunflower oil 90 89 Behenyl alcohol 7 7 Behenic acid 3 3 Sodium lauryl sulphate - 1

Compositions B1 to B4 according to the present invention and comparative composition B5 were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

B1
(inv) B2
(inv) B3
(inv) B4
(inv) B5
(count) Coconut glycoside 5 3 3 - - Sodium lauryl sulphate - - - 1 - Sodium metabisulphite powder 0.22 - - - - Monoethanolamine 6.90 - - - - Ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid 0.20 - - - - 1-Hydroxy-4-amino-benzene (p-aminophenol) 0.10 - - - - 6-Hydroxy benzomorpholine 0.006 - - - - 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.3 - - - - 1-Hydroxy-3-amino-benzene (m-aminophenol) 0.06 - - - - 1-Methyl-2,5-Diamino-benzene 0.23 - - - - Vitamin C: ascorbic acid 0.12 - - - - Sodium PCA - 3 - - - Citric acid - - 3 - - Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100

A foam is generated from each composition A1 and A2 using a Philips brand electric single-batter (position No. 2) for 2 minutes.

Compositions B1 to B4 are then mixed with composition A1 in the form of a foam, in a mass ratio B:A of 7:3 using a rotor-stator; and the comparative composition B5 is also mixed with the comparative composition A2 in the form of a foam, in a mass ratio B5 : A2 of 7:3 using a rotor-stator.

The composition resulting from the mixing of composition A1 and of composition B1 is then mixed with once its weight of oxidizing composition (6%, H ₂ O ₂ ).

The mixtures M1 , M2 , M3 and M4 according to the invention and the comparative mixture M5 are thus obtained.

The mixtures M1 to M4 according to the invention are easy to produce, the compositions A1 and B1 to B4 being easy to mix. There are no lumps, and you get a foam with a smooth texture.

Compositions M1 to M3 are applied to locks of 90% white natural hair weighing 1 g, at the rate of 10 g of composition per lock of hair.

Compositions M1 to M3 spread easily.

The compositions are left on the locks for 30 minutes at 27° C., then rinsed with water.

Compositions M1 to M3 rinse out more easily.

The process according to the invention therefore makes it possible to improve the qualities of use of the compositions in terms of ease of mixing of the compositions, ease of application of the compositions and ease of rinsing of the compositions.

Furthermore, the method M1 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain colored locks with good coloring results, in particular with a good build-up of the color.

Comparative process:

Composition M4 was compared to composition M5 . The M4 composition is stable for several days whereas the M5 composition destabilizes after only a few hours following the preparation of the M5 mixture.

Claims (18)

Process for the treatment of human keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair, comprising:
i) the generation of a foam from a composition A comprising:
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C,
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25°C,
ii) mixing composition A in the form of a foam with an aqueous composition B comprising one or more surfactant(s);
iii) the application of the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin materials such as the hair and the skin, preferably the hair. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which step i) of generating the foam is carried out by shearing the composition A . A process according to any preceding claim wherein composition A is anhydrous. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides , silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from triglyceride-type oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content in composition A of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferably from 75 to 98% by weight, better still from 80 to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25°C are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content in composition A of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25°C ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio in composition A between the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25° C. is greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably ranges from 5 to 15, better still ranges from 6 to 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content in composition A of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25 ° C is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 90% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 95 % by weight relative to the total weight of composition A. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant(s) are chosen from surfactants which have an HLB value greater than or equal to 7, preferably an HLB value ranging from 7 to 18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic surfactants, better still from (C 6 -C 24 alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C 6 -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, even better still from (C ₆ -C 24 alkyl) ₆ -C ₂₄ )polyglucosides. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of surfactant(s) in composition B varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0 .5 to 8% by weight, even better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) and the total content of the surfactant(s) in the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions A and B is greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition A and composition B are mixed with a weight ratio of the quantity of composition A relative to the quantity of composition B ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 3, better ranging from 0.3 to 1.5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition A and/or composition B , preferably composition B , comprises or comprise at least one natural or synthetic direct dye, preferably at least one natural direct dye, more preferably at least one natural direct dye chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, chlorophyllin, sorghum extracts, orceins, cochineal carmine, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin and brazilein, extracts of logwood, or orseille or wood from Brazil and mixtures thereof . Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compositionATand/or compositionB, preferably the compositionB, comprises or comprise at least one oxidation dye. A multi-compartment device comprising at least one compartment comprising composition A as defined in any one of the preceding claims and in a second compartment comprising composition B as defined in any one of the preceding claims.