FR3145689A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC AND/OR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER, A PARTICULAR SILICONE AND A POLYESTERAMINE - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC AND/OR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER, A PARTICULAR SILICONE AND A POLYESTERAMINE The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more polymers comprising one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s); in particular an oil-in-water silicone emulsion; one or more polyesteramine(s). The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres using said cosmetic composition. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A CATIONIC AND/OR AMPHOTERIC POLYMER, A PARTICULAR SILICONE AND A POLYESTERAMINE

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, which comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, a specific oil-in-water silicone emulsion, and one or more polyesteramines.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers using this composition.

Finally, the invention relates to the use of such a composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, mainly based on surfactants, to wash keratin materials, such as hair and skin in particular. These compositions are applied to the keratin materials, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.

These compositions contain high levels of “detergent” surfactants, which, in order to be able to formulate cosmetic compositions with good washing power, must in particular give them good foaming power.

The surfactants useful for this purpose are generally of the anionic, non-ionic and/or amphoteric type, and in particular of the anionic type.

These compositions generally have good washing power, but the intrinsic cosmetic properties associated with them nevertheless remain quite poor, in particular because the relatively aggressive nature of such a cleaning treatment can, in the long term, lead to more or less pronounced damage caused to the hair fiber, this damage being associated in particular with the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface of this fiber.

Thus, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly those that must be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair that has been damaged or weakened, in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and/or hair treatments such as permanent waving, dyeing or bleaching), it is now common to introduce additional cosmetic agents called conditioners into these compositions. These conditioners are mainly intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions to which the hair fibers are subjected more or less repeatedly. They can, of course, also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

The most commonly used conditioners in shampoos today include cationic polymers, silicones and/or silicone derivatives, which give washed, dry or wet hair an ease of detangling, softness and smoothness that are significantly better than those obtainable with corresponding cleansing compositions that lack them.

The use of a mixture of silicone and cationic polymer is particularly known. However, the compositions containing them still have many drawbacks, such as insufficient deposition of silicones on the hair and therefore a strong impact on their cosmetic properties.

There is therefore a real need to provide cosmetic compositions, such as compositions for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, which make it possible to overcome the drawbacks described above, namely which effectively remove dirt and excess sebum and enhance the cosmetic properties of said fibres, such as detangling. These cosmetic properties can also be long-lasting.

The composition must provide a satisfactory silicone deposit on the keratin fibers.

The applicant has now discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, a specific oil-in-water silicone emulsion and one or more polyesteramines makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above.

1. un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques et/ou amphotères comprenant un ou plusieurs motif(s) acrylique(s) et/ou méthacrylique(s) ;
2. une émulsion huile dans l’eau ayant une taille de particule D50 inférieure à 350 nm et comprenant :
   • un mélange de silicone comprenant (i) un dialkylpolysiloxane à terminaison trialkylsilyle ayant une viscosité de 40 000 à moins de 100 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et (ii) une amino silicone ayant une viscosité de 1 000 à 15 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et un indice d’amine de 2 à 10 mg de KOH par gramme d’amino silicone,
   • un mélange d’émulsifiants comprenant un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques, le mélange d’émulsifiants ayant une valeur HLB de 10 à 16, et
   • de l'eau ;
3. une ou plusieurs polyesteramines.

Thus, the subject of the invention is in particular a cosmetic composition comprising:

1. one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
2. an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising:
   • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of from 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone,
   • an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, the emulsifier mixture having an HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
   • water ;
3. one or more polyesteramines.

The cosmetic composition, when applied to keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as hair, leads to an improvement in the condition and quality of the hair, in particular in terms of the feel of the hair (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, conditioned feel) and detangling of the hair, in particular in terms of combing wet hair.

This cosmetic composition allows to increase the deposition of silicone on the hair compared to a similar composition which does not contain polyesteramines.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, using the composition according to the invention.

Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly from reading the description and the example which follows.

In the following text, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, for example in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units. These polymers are not silicones, i.e. they do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.

By “°cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s)°” or “cationic/amphoteric polymer(s)” is meant one or more cationic polymers, one or more amphoteric polymers or the mixture of one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.

By "acrylic and/or methacrylic unit(s)" is meant units corresponding to acrylic and/or methacrylic acid monomers and/or their salts, and/or their derivatives such as esters (e.g. (meth)acrylates) or amides (e.g. (meth)acrylamide), optionally substituted.

The cationic and/or amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from homo- or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (I):
(I)

• R₁désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié,
• R₂désigne un radical hydroxyle, un radical NR₃R₄ou un radical alcoxy en C₁-C₁₂linéaire ou ramifié, ledit radical alcoxy étant facultativement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux hydroxyle, par un radical d'ammonium quaternaire (N⁺R₅R₆R₇; Y^-) ou par un radical NR₈R₉,
• R₃et R₄, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₂linéaire ou ramifié, facultativement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux hydroxyle, par un radical ammonium quaternaire (N⁺R₅R₆R₇; Y^-), par un radical NR₈R₉ou par un groupe sulfonique (-SO₃H), et
• R₅, R₆et R₇, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₈linéaire ou ramifié ou un radical benzyle, de préférence un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié ;
• R₈et R₉, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié ; et
• Y^-désigne un anion dérivé d’un acide minéral ou organique ou d’un halogénure, de préférence un anion bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, méthosulfate, sulfate ou phosphate.

in which:

• R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical,
• R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical, an NR ₃ R ₄ radical or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N ⁺ R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ ; Y ^- ) or by an NR ₈ R ₉ radical,
• R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N ⁺ R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ ; Y ^- ), by an NR ₈ R ₉ radical or by a sulfonic group (-SO ₃ H), and
• R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical;
• R ₈ and R ₉ , which may be the same or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical; and
• Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.

Preferably, R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

The polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units suitable for the present invention are chosen from cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers and mixtures thereof. They are more preferably chosen from cationic polymers.

The cationic charge density of the polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may preferably be less than or equal to 5 meq/g, more preferably less than or equal to 4 meq/g and better still less than or equal to 3 meq/g. This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 5 meq/g, better still from 1 to 4 meq/g and even more preferably from 1.5 to 3 meq/g.

The term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to anionic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which may be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly linked thereto.

The polymers a) which can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
(II)
(III)
(IV)
(V)

• R₁, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical CH₃;
• R, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₂linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire, facultativement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux hydroxyle ;
• R₅, R₆et R₇, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₈linéaire ou ramifié ou un radical benzyle, de préférence un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié ;
• R₈et R₉, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence méthyle ou éthyle ; et
• Y^-désigne un anion dérivé d’un acide minéral ou organique ou d’un halogénure, de préférence un anion bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, méthosulfate, sulfate ou phosphate.

in which:

• R ₁ , which may be the same or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;
• R, which may be the same or different, denote a linear or branched _C1 - _C12 alkyl radical, preferably a linear _C1 - _C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals;
• R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical;
• R ₈ and R ₉ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and
• Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.

Preferably, the polymers a) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic amides, and more preferably from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (II) or (III).

More particularly, the polymers a) are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one unit of formula (II) as defined above, and more preferably comprising at least one unit of formula (II) in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ represent a methyl.

The polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamides and methacrylamides, and more preferably from the family of acrylamides and even more preferably, acrylamide or methacrylamide.

• les copolymères de chlorure d'acrylamidopropyltrimonium et d'acrylamide, tels que le produit vendu sous le nom Salcare^®SC 60 par la société BASF, ou vendu sous le nom N-Hance SP 100 par la société Ashland, ou vendu en tant que
• mélange de chlorure de guar hydroxypropyltrimonium (et) copolymère de chlorure d'acrylamidepropyltrimonium/acrylamide sous le nom N-Hance 4572 (par exemple, polymère de conditionnement Aqualon aqua 4572) par la société Ashland,
• les copolymères d’acrylamide et de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisés par du diméthyl sulfate ou par un halogénure de diméthyle, tels que le produit vendu sous le nom HERCOFLOC par la société Hercules,
• les copolymères d’acrylamide et de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthyl ammonium, tels que ceux vendus sous le nom BINA QUAT P 100 par la société Ciba Geigy,
• les copolymères d’acrylamide et de méthosulfate de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthyl ammonium, tels que le produit vendu sous le nom RETEN par la société Hercules,
• les copolymères de vinylpyrrolidone/acrylate ou méthacrylate de dialkylaminoalkyle quaternisés ou non quaternisés, tels que les produits vendus sous le nom GAFQUAT par la société ISP, par exemple GAFQUAT 734 ou GAFQUAT 755, ou en variante les produits connus sous le nom COPOLYMER 845, 958 et 937. Ces polymères sont décrits en détail dans les documents FR 2 077 143 et FR 2 393 573,
• les terpolymères de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle/vinylcaprolactame/vinylpyrrolidone, tels que le produit vendu sous le nom GAFFIX VC 713 par la société ISP,
• les copolymères de vinylpyrrolidone/méthacrylamidopropyldiméthylamine, tels que ceux vendus sous le nom STYLEZE CC 10 par ISP,
• les copolymères quaternisés de vinylpyrrolidone/diméthylaminopropylméthacrylamide tels que le produit vendu sous le nom GAFQUAT HS 100 par la société ISP,
• de préférence, les polymères réticulés de sels de méthacryloyloxy(C₁-C₄)alkyltri(C₁-C₄)alkylammonium, tels que les polymères obtenus par homopolymérisation de méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé par du chlorure de méthyle, ou par copolymérisation d’acrylamide avec du méthacrylate de diméthylaminoéthyle quaternisé par du chlorure de méthyle, l’homopolymérisation ou la copolymérisation étant suivie d’une réticulation avec un composé oléfiniquement insaturé, en particulier le méthylènebisacrylamide. On peut utiliser plus particulièrement un copolymère réticulé ou non réticulé d'acrylamide/chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthylammonium (20/80 en poids) sous la forme d’une dispersion contenant 50 % en poids dudit copolymère dans une huile minérale. Cette dispersion est vendue sous le nom SALCARE^®SC 92 par la société BASF. On peut également utiliser un homopolymère réticulé ou non réticulé de chlorure de méthacryloyloxyéthyltriméthylammonium contenant environ 50 % en poids de l'homopolymère dans une huile minérale ou dans un ester liquide. Ces dispersions sont vendues sous les noms SALCARE^®SC 95 et SALCARE^®SC 96 par la société BASF.

Among these polymers, we can cite:

• copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride and acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Salcare ^® SC 60 by the BASF company, or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 by the Ashland company, or sold as
• blend of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (and) acrylamidepropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer under the name N-Hance 4572 (e.g., Aqualon aqua 4572 conditioning polymer) by Ashland Company,
• copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules,
• copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
• copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name RETEN by the company Hercules,
• quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name GAFQUAT by the company ISP, for example GAFQUAT 734 or GAFQUAT 755, or alternatively the products known under the names COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in documents FR 2 077 143 and FR 2 393 573,
• dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
• vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP,
• quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP,
• preferably, crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyltri(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer of acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in a mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE ^® SC 92 by BASF. Alternatively, a crosslinked or uncrosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in a mineral oil or in a liquid ester may be used. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE ^® SC 95 and SALCARE ^® SC 96 by BASF.

The polymers a) which can be used in the present invention can also be chosen from amphoteric polymers.

1. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylamide,
2. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, et
3. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère acide de type acide (méth)acrylique.

The amphoteric polymers may be chosen more particularly from amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of:

1. one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamide monomer,
2. one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and
3. one or more units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type.

Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide type monomer (i) are units of structure (VI) below:
(VI)

• R₁désigne un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical CH₃; et
• R₂désigne un radical NR₃R₄dans lequel R₃et R₄, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₂linéaire ou ramifié, facultativement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux hydroxyle, de préférence R₂désigne un radical amino, diméthylamino, tert-butylamino, dodécylamino ou -NH-CH₂OH.

in which:

• R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical; and
• R ₂ denotes a radical NR ₃ R ₄ in which R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be the same or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R ₂ denotes an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH ₂ OH radical.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VI).

The unit derived from a (meth)acrylamide monomer of formula (VI) in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₂ is an amino radical (NH ₂ ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.

Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer (ii) are units of structure (VII) below:
(VII)

• R₃désigne un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical CH₃;
• R₅, R₆et R₇, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle en C₁-C₆linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence un radical alkyle en C₁-C₄linéaire ou ramifié ;
• n désigne un nombre entier allant de 1 à 6, de préférence de 1 à 4 ; et
• Y^-désigne un anion dérivé d’un acide minéral ou organique ou d’un halogénure, de préférence un anion bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, méthosulfate, sulfate ou phosphate.

in which:

• R ₃ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;
• R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ , which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical;
• n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; and
• Y ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VII).

Among these units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type of formula VII), those which are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R ₁ denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R ₅ , R ₆ and R ₇ denote a methyl radical, and Y ^- denotes a chloride anion.

Preferably, the units derived from a (meth)acrylic acid monomer (iii) are units of formula (VIII):
(VIII)

• R₁désigne un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical CH₃; et
• R₂désigne un radical hydroxyle ou un radical NR₃R₄, dans lequel R₃et R₄, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₁₂linéaire ou ramifié facultativement substitué par un groupe sulfonique (-SO₃H), de préférence R₂désigne un radical –NH-C(CH₃)₂-CH₂-SO₃H.

in which:

• R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical; and
• R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical or a radical NR ₃ R ₄ , in which R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be the same or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group (-SO ₃ H), preferably R ₂ denotes a radical –NH-C(CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ H.

Preferred units of formula (VIII) correspond to monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.

Preferably, the unit derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type of formula VIII) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical.

The acid monomer(s) of the (meth)acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or completely neutralized with an organic or mineral base.

Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single unit of formula (VIII).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i). Preferably, they comprise from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.

The content of units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) type can advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.

The content of units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid (iii) type can advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.

• de 30 % en moles à 70 % en moles et de manière davantage préférée de 40 % en moles à 60 % en moles de motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylamide (i),
• de 10 % en moles à 60 % en moles et préférentiellement de 20 % en moles à 55 % en moles de motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii), et
• de 1 % en moles à 20 % en moles et préférentiellement de 5 % en moles à 15 % en moles de motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type acide (méth)acrylique (iii).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:

• from 30 mol% to 70 mol% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mol% of units derived from a (meth)acrylamide monomer (i),
• from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol% to 55 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii), and
• from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).

Amphoteric polymers of this type may also comprise additional units, other than the units derived from a (meth)acrylamide type, (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (meth)acrylic acid type monomer as described above.

However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units derived from monomers (i) of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of (meth)acrylic acid type.

Examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers include acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers. These polymers are listed in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquaternium 53. The corresponding products are sold in particular under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.

1. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylate,
2. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère de type (méth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, et
3. un ou plusieurs motifs dérivés d’un monomère acide de type acide (méth)acrylique.

Another preferred type of amphoteric polymers is the polymer comprising a repetition of:

1. one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylate type monomer,
2. one or more units derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium monomer, and
3. one or more units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type.

The (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer and the (meth)acrylic acid type acid monomer (monomers (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.

The nonionic monomers (i) of (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred examples of these amphoteric polymers include acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylate terpolymers. These polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquaternium 47. The corresponding products are sold in particular under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the company Nalco.

As another type of amphoteric polymer that can be used, there may also be mentioned copolymers based on (meth)acrylic acid and a dialkyldiallylammonium salt, such as copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.

These polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary as polyquaternium 22 and polyquaternium 53 (acrylic acid/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC)/acrylamide terpolymer. Examples of corresponding products are sold under the names Merquat 280 and Merquat 2003PR, respectively, by the Nalco company.

• les copolymères d’halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyl en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylamide, de préférence les copolymères de chlorure de (méth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(méth)acrylamide, et de manière davantage préférée les copolymères de chlorure d’acrylamidopropyltrimonium/acrylamide,
• les terpolymères d’halogénure de (méth)acrylamido (alkyle en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylamide/acide (méth)acrylique, de préférence les terpolymères de chlorure de (méth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(méth)acrylamide/acide (méth)acrylique, de manière davantage préférée les terpolymères d’acrylamide/chlorure de méthacrylamidopropyltriméthylammonium/acide acrylique,
• les terpolymères d’halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C₁-C₆/acide (méth)acrylique, de préférence les terpolymères de chlorure de (méth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C₁-C₆/acide (méth)acrylique ; de manière davantage préférée les terpolymères d’acide acrylique/chlorure de méthylacrylamidopropyltriméthyl-ammonium/acrylates de méthyle,
• les copolymères d'acide(méth)acrylique/ chlorure de diméthyldiallylammonium,
• et les mélanges de ceux-ci.
• Plus préférablement, le(s) polymère(s) a) sont préférablement choisis parmi :
• les copolymères d’halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyl en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylamide, de préférence les copolymères de chlorure de (méth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium/(méth)acrylamide, et de manière préférée entre toutes, les copolymères de chlorure d’acrylamidopropyltrimonium/acrylamide.

The polymer(s) a) are preferably chosen from:

• (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl} )ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers,
• (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl} )ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers,
• (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C _{6 alkyl} )tri(C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl} )ammonium halide/C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl(meth)acrylate/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl(meth)acrylate/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylate terpolymers,
• (meth)acrylic acid/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers,
• and mixtures thereof.
• More preferably, the polymer(s) a) are preferably chosen from:
• (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl)tri(C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl} )ammonium halide/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, and most preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers.

The total amount of cationic/amphoteric polymer(s) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units present in the composition of the present invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.04 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Silicone(s) in the form of a oil in water emulsion

• un mélange de silicone comprenant (i) un dialkylpolysiloxane à terminaison trialkylsilyle ayant une viscosité de 40 000 à moins de 100 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et (ii) une amino silicone ayant une viscosité de 1 000 à 15 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et un indice d’amine de 2 à 10 mg de KOH par gramme d’amino silicone ;
• un mélange d’émulsifiants comprenant un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques, le mélange d’émulsifiants ayant une valeur HLB de 10 à 16, et
• de l'eau.

The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising:

• a silicone blend comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone;
• an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, the emulsifier mixture having an HLB value of from 10 to 16, and
• water.

In the oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase.

The silicone mixture comprises one or more trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes, which are preferably of formula (IX):

R' ₃ SiO(R' ₂ SiO) _p SiR' ₃

• R', identiques ou différents, sont un radical hydrocarboné monovalent ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, mieux encore de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone, plus préférablement le méthyle, et
• p est un entier de 500 à 2 000, de préférence de 1 000 à 2 000.

in which:

• R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and
• p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000.

The trialkylsilyl-terminated (or end- or α,ω-blocked) dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25°C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

The trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain, in addition to R' ₂ SiO _2/2 units (D units) in formula (IX), RSiO _3/2 units (T units) and/or SiO _4/2 units (Q units), in which R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R, which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₈ alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is most preferred.

Preferably, the trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones).

The silicone mixture comprises one or more amino silicones which are preferably of formula (X):

XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂

• R, identiques ou différents, sont un radical hydrocarboné monovalent ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, mieux encore de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone, plus préférablement de méthyle ;
• X, identiques ou différents, sont R ou un groupe hydroxyle (OH) ou alcoxy en C₁-C₆; de préférence X est R, c’est-à-dire un radical hydrocarboné monovalent ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone, mieux encore de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone, plus préférablement le méthyle ;
• A est un radical amino de formule -R¹-[NR²-R³-]_xNR² ₂, ou les formes amino protonées dudit radical amino, dans lequel R¹est un radical alkylène en C₁-C₆, de préférence un radical de formule -CH₂CH₂CH₂- ou -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH₂-, R², identiques ou différents, sont un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical alkyle en C₁-C₄, de préférence un atome d’hydrogène, R³est un radical alkylène en C₁-C₆, de préférence un radical de formule -CH₂CH₂-, et x vaut 0 ou 1 ;

in which:

• R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;
• X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group; preferably X is R, i.e. a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl;
• A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is a C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² , identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R ³ is a C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 0 or 1;

• m+n est un entier de 50 à environ 1000, de préférence de 50 à 600.

And

• m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably 50 to 600.

Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -R ¹ -[NR ² -R ³ -] _x NR ² ₂ , or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² are hydrogen atoms, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1.

Preferably, R, which may be identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₂₈ alkyl radicals, such as the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals such as the n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radical; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl and phenanthryl radical; alkaryl radicals, such as the o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the a- and b-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is most preferred.

The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C, preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.

The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably 3.5 to 8 mg.

The molar percentage of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3 to about 8%.

Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend of the invention include a trialkylsilyl terminated amino silicone.

Most preferably, the amino silicones are trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane copolymers, most preferably trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers. The amino radical A can be partially or fully protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, in which the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (X).

The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the silicone mixture.

The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers. It may optionally comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

The emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16.

The nonionic emulsifiers may be selected from the nonionic surfactants described below.

Mention may be made of alcohols, α-diols and C _1-20 alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups optionally ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups optionally ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5, and in particular from 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated esters and preferably polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C _6-24 alkyl)carbohydrate derivatives, amine oxides such as (C _10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C _10-14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

We can also cite nonionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:

R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v

• R₁représente un radical alkyle ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié comprenant de 6 à 24 atomes de carbone, et notamment de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, ou un radical alkylphényle dont le radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comprend de 6 à 24 atomes de carbone, et notamment de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone ;
• R₂représente un radical alkylène comprenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone,
• G représente un motif sucre comprenant 5 à 6 atomes de carbone,
• t désigne une valeur allant de 0 à 10 et de préférence 0 à 4,
• v désigne une valeur allant de 1 à 15 et de préférence 1 à 4.

in which:

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
• R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
• G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
• t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
• v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.

• R₁désigne un radical alkyle saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, comprenant de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone,
• R₂représente un radical alkylène comprenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone,
• t désigne un nombre allant de 0 à 3, et de préférence égal à 0,
• G désigne le glucose, le fructose ou le galactose, de préférence le glucose ;
• le degré de polymérisation, à savoir la valeur de v, allant éventuellement de 1 à 15 et de préférence de 1 à 4 ; le degré de polymérisation moyen étant plus particulièrement compris entre 1 et 2.

Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:

• R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• R ₂ represents an alkylene radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
• t denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,
• G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
• the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. 1,4-alkyl(poly)glycosides in ₈ /C ₁₆ and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl/caprylyl glucosides, are particularly preferred.

Commercial products include products sold by COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); products sold by SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or products sold by CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

The nonionic emulsifiers could preferably be chosen from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, a sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, fatty acid glycol esters, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid amides.

1. les polyoxyalkylène alkyl éthers, notamment les alcools gras (poly)éthoxylés de formule :

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are selected from:

1. polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, in particular (poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols of formula:

R ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _c OH

• R₃représentant un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₄₀linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₃₀, facultativement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, et
• c étant un entier compris entre 1 et 200 inclus, préférentiellement entre 2 et 150 et plus particulièrement entre 4 et 50, le plus préférablement entre 8 et 20.

with :

• R ₃ representing a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and
• c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.

1. (ii) les polyoxyalkylène (C8-C32)alkylphényléthers,
2. les esters d’acides gras (en C₈-C₃₂) de sorbitan polyoxyalkylénés, en particulier des esters d’acides gras polyéthoxylés de sorbitan contenant de préférence de 2 à 40 motifs oxyde d’éthylène, de préférence de 2 à 20 motifs oxyde d’éthylène ; de préférence des esters d'acide gras (en C₁₀-C₂₄) de sorbitan polyoxyéthylénés contenant de préférence de 2 à 40 motifs oxyde d’éthylène, de préférence de 2 à 20 motifs oxyde d’oxyde d’éthylène ; et
3. les esters d’acides gras (en C₈-C₃₂) polyoxyéthylénés contenant par exemple de 2 à 150 mol d’oxyde d’éthylène ; de préférence des esters d’acides gras (en C₁₀-C₂₄) polyoxyéthylénés contenant par exemple de 2 à 150 mol d’oxyde d’éthylène.

(Poly)ethoxylated fatty alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO);

1. (ii) polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers,
2. polyoxyalkylenated sorbitan (C ₈ -C ₃₂ ) fatty acid esters, in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan (C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ ) fatty acid esters preferably containing from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and
3. polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (C ₈ -C ₃₂ ) containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ ) containing for example from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers could be selected from polyalkylene glycol alkyl ether and polyalkylene glycol alkyl esters; preferably polyethylene glycol (PEG).

• polyéthylèneglycol octyl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol lauryl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol tridécyl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol cétyl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol stéaryl éther ; parmi ces derniers, on peut mentionner plus particulièrement le tridéceth-3, le tridéceth-10 et le stéareth-6.
• polyéthylèneglycol nonylphényl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol dodécylphényl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol cétyphényl éther ; polyéthylèneglycol stéarylphényl éther ;
• monostéarate de polyéthylèneglycol sorbitan, monooléate de polyéthylèneglycol sorbitan.
• stéarate de polyéthylèneglycol, et notamment le stéarate de PEG-100.

Some useful emulsifiers are:

• polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene glycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among these, trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6 may be mentioned in particular.
• polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether;
• Polyethylene glycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate.
• polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.

Most preferably, the nonionic emulsifiers are selected from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all of these emulsifiers are present in the emulsifier mixture.

The emulsifier mixture could comprise one or more cationic emulsifiers which could be selected from tetraalkylammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylarylammonium halides and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds, including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be selected from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as the chloride.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises nonionic emulsifiers in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, if any, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total amount of 40 to 60% by weight, preferably 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane(s) in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, preferably 38 to 42% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total amount of 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion comprises water preferably in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.

The oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

• une étape de mélange d’un ou plusieurs dialkylpolysiloxanes à terminaison trialkylsilyle d’une viscosité de 40 000 à moins de 100 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et d’une ou plusieurs amino silicones d’une viscosité de 1 000 à 15 000 mPa.s à 25 °C et d’un indice d’amine de 2 à 10 mg de KOH par gramme d’amino silicone, à une température de 15 °C à 40 °C, de préférence à 25 °C, pour obtenir un fluide de silicone mixte, puis
• une étape d’ajout d’un mélange d’émulsifiants comprenant un ou plusieurs émulsifiants non ioniques, dans laquelle le mélange d’émulsifiants a une valeur HLB de 10 à 16, au fluide de silicone mixte pour obtenir un mélange silicone-émulsifiant, puis
• une étape d’homogénéisation du mélange silicone-émulsifiant suivie par
• une étape d’ajout, de préférence par étapes, d’eau, de préférence d'eau déminéralisée, pour obtenir une émulsion huile dans l'eau ayant une taille de particule D50 inférieure à 350 nm.

A method of preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises:

• a step of mixing one or more trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15°C to 40°C, preferably at 25°C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, and then
• a step of adding an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier mixture, and then
• a homogenization step of the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by
• a step of adding, preferably in steps, water, preferably demineralized water, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm.

The method of preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise a step of adding a biocide. Biocide could be added to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination. The biocide could be added at the level to preserve the emulsion against microbial contamination and obtain said emulsion. The amount of the biocide depends on the type of biocide and the manufacturer's recommendations.

The preparation of the emulsifier mixture could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.

The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e. after addition of the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.

The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, preferably 100 to 300 nm, more preferably 150 to 250 nm, most preferably 160 to 200 nm. It corresponds to the mean hydrodynamic diameter of the particles. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. The particle size D50 could be measured using a ZetaSizer apparatus from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method.

Particle size measurement

The emulsion particle size is measured using a ZetaSizer instrument from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS which is based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of the particle size (mean hydrodynamic diameter of the particles) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being the “cumulant analysis”.

Take 0.5 g of the emulsion sample into a 250 ml beaker, pour 100 ml of deionized water into it, and then mix them well to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slot of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the value of the 50% particle diameter in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170 nm, 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm and 50% smaller than 170 nm or about 50% by volume of all the droplets in said emulsion are 170 nm.

Viscosity measurement

Viscosity, especially of silicones or emulsion, is measured at 25°C. atmospheric.

For viscosities between 1000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, single-gap cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.

For viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plate geometry: 25 mm dia./cone 6°); with the “zero air gap” setting and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.

Three measurements are made for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. MCR Rheometer range products operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 – Rotational Rheometer Methods.

Measuring the amine index

The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken into a 500 ml beaker and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added and stirred to mix the sample well; the sample solution is then titrated with 0.1(N) HCl solution. A blank determination with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is also performed. The calculation of the amine value is performed using the aforementioned potentiometer.

The amine index is calculated according to the formula:

56.11 × (V – VBlank) × N / W mg KOH/g sample,

where v = volume of HCl required in ml, Vblank = volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the toluene-butanol mixture 1:1 in ml; N = normality of HCl, i.e. 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams.

HLB Value

The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and denotes the hydro-lipophilic ratio of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, the HLB values refer to the values at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure.

HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.

The calculation of the HLB value of nonionic surfactants is done according to the following equation: HLB = (E + P)/5, E being the weight percentage of the oxyethylene content and P being the weight percentage of the polyhydric alcohol content, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, no.4), pages 249-256.

It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and M. Seiller entitled “Galenica 5: Dispersed systems – Volume I – surfactants and emulsions – Chapter IV – Notions of HLB and critical HLB, pages 153-194 – paragraph 1.1.2. Determination of HLB by experimental means, pages 164-180”.

The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be considered.

This calculated HLB could be defined as follows:

“Calculated HLB = 20 × molar mass of the hydrophilic part/total molar mass”.

For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed on the fatty alcohol and the “calculated HLB” then corresponds to the “Griffin HLB” as defined above.

For an ester or amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being located beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).

For ionic surfactants/emulsifiers, the HLB value of each surfactant/emulsifier can be calculated by applying the Davies formula as described in Davies JT (1957), “A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent,” Gas/Liquid and Liquid/Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress on Surface Activity): 426-438.

According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic/hydrophobic contribution offered by the structural components of the emulsifier: HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH ₂ group) +7.

Approximate HLB values for some cationic emulsifiers are given in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.

When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB _Mix is said to be the HLB required for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (W _A HLB _A + W _B HLB _B )/(W _A + W _B ) = HLB _Mix , where W _A = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used, and W _B = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLB _A , HLB _B = the HLB values assigned to emulsifiers A and B; HLB _Mix = the HLB of the mixture.

Said oil-in-water emulsion is for example described in document WO 2017/108824.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the oil-in-water emulsion b) in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10%, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyesteramines

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more polyesteramines.

The polyesteramine according to the invention is a polymer comprising repeating units linked by ester bonds and also comprising at least one amine function, preferably at least two amine functions in its structure. The amine function may be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

Preferably, the polyesteramine of the invention comprises at least one amine function, more preferably at least two amine functions, incorporated into the polymer backbone. More preferably, the at least one amine function is a tertiary amine function.

Preferably, the polyesteramine of the invention is chosen from branched polyesteramines.

The polyesteramine of the invention may result from a reaction involving at least one organic amine, at least one polyol, at least one di- or tri-carboxylic acid and at least one fatty acid.

The organic amine may be an alkanolamine. The term "alkanolamine" means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Preferably, an alkanolamine suitable for the present invention is an amine comprising a tertiary amine function, namely a tertiary alkanolamine.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated.

In particular, the polyol(s) comprises from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.

The polyol may be preferentially selected from polyols having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen from diglycerol, glycerol, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

The di- or tri-carboxylic acid may be selected from adipic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, trimellitic acid, dimer acid, trimer acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid and pyromellitic acid.

The di- or tri-carboxylic acid is preferably a dicarboxylic acid. More preferably, the dicarboxylic acid has from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably, from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

The term "fatty acids" is intended to mean a long chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the solid fatty acids according to the invention, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

The fatty acid may be selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

1. au moins une amine organique, de préférence au moins une alcanolamine, plus préférablement, au moins une alcanolamine tertiaire ;
2. au moins un polyol, de préférence au moins un polyol ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone ;
3. au moins un acide dicarboxylique, de préférence au moins un acide dicarboxylique ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone ; et
4. au moins un acide gras, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, de préférence au moins un acide gras, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone.

Advantageously, the polyesteramine according to the invention is chosen from the polyesteramines (Ia) resulting from the reaction of:

1. at least one organic amine, preferably at least one alkanolamine, more preferably at least one tertiary alkanolamine;
2. at least one polyol, preferably at least one polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;
3. at least one dicarboxylic acid, preferably at least one dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; and
4. at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

1. bis-hydroxyéthyl méthylamine ;

1. (ii) glycérine ;
2. (iii) acide adipique ; et
3. au moins un acide gras, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, de préférence au moins un acide gras, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone.

More preferably, the polyesteramine of the invention is chosen from the polyesteramines (Ib) resulting from the reaction of:

1. bis-hydroxyethyl methylamine;

1. (ii) glycerin;
2. (iii) adipic acid; and
3. at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the polyesteramine according to the invention is chosen from compounds having the INCI names polyester-11, polyester-37 and their mixtures, preferably polyester-11.

Examples of these compounds are products sold by INOLEX under the brand names Kerazyne (polyester-11) and ClariSilk (polyester-37).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) (Ia) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise the polyesteramine(s) (Ib) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise polyester-11 in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and even better from 0.3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactant(s)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants. These may be anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic surfactants, and preferably anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise one or more anionic surfactants; preferably one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants. It may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants. It may also comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactant(s)

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is said to be “anionic” when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants can be used.

• les tensioactifs anioniques carboxylate comprennent au moins une fonction carboxylique ou carboxylate (-COOH ou -COO^-) et peuvent facultativement comprendre également une ou plusieurs fonctions sulfate et/ou sulfonate ;
• les tensioactifs anioniques sulfonate comprennent au moins une fonction sulfonate (-SO₃H ou -SO₃ ^-) et peuvent facultativement comprendre également une ou plusieurs fonctions sulfate, mais ne comprennent pas de fonctions carboxylate ; et
• les tensioactifs anioniques sulfate comprennent au moins une fonction sulfate mais ne comprennent pas de fonctions carboxylate ou sulfonate.

It is understood in this description that:

• the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
• the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and
• Anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The carboxylic anionic surfactants which can be used therefore comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (—COOH or -COO ^- ).

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C ₆ -C ₃₀ aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds.

The alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Also useful are C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids, such as C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made in particular of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (XI):

• R₁représente un radical alkyle ou alcényle en C₆-C₂₄linéaire ou ramifié, un radical alkylphényle en C₈-C₉, un radical R₂CONH-CH₂-CH₂- avec R₂désignant un radical alkyle ou alcényle en C₉-C₂₁linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence, R₁est un radical alkyle en C₈-C₂₀et de préférence en C₈-C₁₈et aryle désigne de préférence phényle,
• n est un nombre entier ou décimal (valeur moyenne) allant de 2 à 24 et de préférence de 2 à 10,
• A désigne H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg ou un résidu de monoéthanolamine ou de triéthanolamine.

in which

• R ₁ represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C _{24 alkyl} or alkenyl radical, a C ₈ -C ₉ alkylphenyl radical, a radical R ₂ CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - with R ₂ denoting a linear or branched C ₉ -C ₂₁ alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably, R ₁ is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ and preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
• n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
• A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or triethanolamine.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (XI), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different R ₁ groups.

• R₁désigne un radical alkyle en C₁₂-C₁₄, cocoyle, oléyle, nonylphényle ou octylphényle,
• désigne un atome d’hydrogène ou de sodium, et
• n varie de 2 à 20 et de préférence de 2 à 10.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids which are particularly preferred are those of formula (XI) in which:

• R ₁ denotes a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl,
• denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
• n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (XI) are used in which R denotes a _C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

• les acylglutamates, notamment en C₆- C₂₄ou même en C₁₂- C₂₀, tels que les stéaroylglutamates, et notamment le stéaroylglutamate disodique ;
• les acylsarcosinates, notamment en C₆-C₂₄ou même en C₁₂-C₂₀, tels que les palmitoylsarcosinates, et notamment le palmitoylsarcosinate de sodium ;
• les acyllactylates, notamment en C₁₂-C₂₈ou même en C₁₄-C₂₄, tels que les béhénoyllactylates, et notamment le béhénoyllactylate de sodium ;
• les glycinates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les éther carboxylates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄, et notamment les éther carboxylates d'alkyle en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les acides (C₆-C₂₄₎alkyl (amido) éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, notamment ceux comprenant de 2 à 50 groupes oxyde d’éthylène ;

The carboxylic anionic surfactants are preferably chosen, alone or in a mixture, from:

• acylglutamates, in particular _C6 - _C24 or even _C12 - _C20 , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
• acylsarcosinates, in particular _C6 - _C24 or even _C12 - _C20 , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
• acyllactylates, in particular _C12 - _C28 or even _C14 - _C24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 acyl glycinates;
• _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, and in particular _C12 - _C20 alkyl ether carboxylates;
• polyoxyalkylenated ( _C6 - _C24) alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds. The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

• les sulfosuccinates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀, notamment les sulfosuccinates de lauryle ;
• les éther sulfosuccinates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les iséthionates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et de préférence les iséthionates d'acyle en C₁₂-C₁₈,

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen, alone or in a mixture, from:

• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
• _C6 - _C24 acyl isethionates and preferably _C12 - _C18 acyl isethionates,

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The sulfate-based anionic surfactants that can be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.

The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

• les sulfates d'alkyle, notamment en C₆-C₂₄ou même en C₁₂-C₂₀,
• les alkyl éther sulfates, notamment en C₆-C₂₄ou même en C₁₂-C₂₀, comprenant de préférence de 2 à 20 motifs oxyde d'éthylène ;

Preferably, the sulfate-based anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in a mixture, from:

• alkyl sulfates, especially _C6 - _C24 or even _C12 - _C20 ,
• alkyl ether sulfates, in particular _C6 - _C24 or even _C12 - _C20 , preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

• les sulfates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les alkyl éther sulfates en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀; comprenant de préférence de 2 à 20 motifs oxyde d'éthylène ;
• les sulfosuccinates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀, notamment les sulfosuccinates de lauryle ;
• les éther sulfosuccinates d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les iséthionates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et de préférence les iséthionates d'acyle en C₁₂-C₁₈;
• les sarcosinates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀; notamment les sarcosinates de palmitoyle ;
• les carboxylates d'éther d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄, de préférence les carboxylates d'éther d'alkyle en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les acides carboxyliques d'éther d'alkyle en C₆-C₂₄(amido) et les sels de ceux-ci, en particulier ceux comprenant de 2 à 50 groupes oxyde d'alkylène et notamment oxyde d'éthylène ;
• les glutamates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;
• les glycinates d'acyle en C₆-C₂₄et notamment en C₁₂-C₂₀;

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in a mixture, from:

• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl sulfates;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially lauryl sulfosuccinates;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
• _C6 - _C24 acyl isethionates and preferably _C12 - _C18 acyl isethionates;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 acyl sarcosinates; especially palmitoyl sarcosinates;
• _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably _C12 - _C20 alkyl ether carboxylates;
• _C6 - _C24 alkyl ether carboxylic acids (amido) and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 acyl glutamates;
• _C6 - _C24 and especially _C12 - _C20 acyl glycinates;

in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

The anionic surfactants are preferably of the sulfate type and are preferably selected from salts, in particular alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium salts, alkyl sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl radical of all of these various compounds preferably contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

The anionic surfactant(s) is (are) more preferably chosen from anionic surfactants of the alkyl ether sulfate type, and better still from C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulfate salts, such as lauryl ether sulfate salts.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 10 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s).

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₃ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines.

Among the secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of the respective structures (XII) and (XIII) below:

R _a -C(O)-N(Z)CH ₂ (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ C(O)O ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (XII)

• R_areprésente un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₆à C₃₀dérivé d’un acide R_aCOOH de préférence présent dans l’huile de noix de coco hydrolysée, ou un groupe heptyle, nonyle ou undécyle ;
• R_breprésente un groupe bêta-hydroxyéthyle ;
• R_creprésente un groupe carboxyméthyle ;
• M⁺représente un contre-ion cationique dérivé d’un métal alcalin ou métal alcalino-terreux, tel que le sodium, un ion ammonium ou un ion dérivé d’une amine organique ; et
• X^-représente un contre-ion anionique organique ou minéral, de préférence choisi parmi les halogénures, acétates, phosphates, nitrates, sulfates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄, sulfonates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄ou d'alkylaryle en C₁-C₄, en particulier sulfate de méthyle et sulfate d'éthyle ;
• m est égal à 0, 1 ou 2 ; et
• Z représente un atome d’hydrogène ou un groupe hydroxyéthyle ou carboxyméthyle.

in which

• R _a represents a C ₆ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
• R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
• R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
• M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
• X ^- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, preferably chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate;
• m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
• Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

Or alternatively M ⁺ and ^X- are absent;

R _a' -C(O)-N(Z)-CH ₂ -(CH ₂ ) _m' -N(B)(B') (XIII)

• B représente le groupe -CH₂CH₂-O-X' ;
• B' représente le groupe -(CH₂)_zY', avec z = 1 ou 2 ;
• X' représente le groupe -CH₂-C(O)OH, -CH₂-C(O)OZ’, -CH₂-CH₂-C(O)OH, -CH₂-CH₂-C(O)OZ’ ou un atome d'hydrogène ;
• Y' représente le groupe –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ’, -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H ou le groupe -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃-Z’ ;
• Z'' représente un contre-ion cationique dérivé d’un métal alcalin ou métal alcalino-terreux, tel que le sodium, un ion ammonium ou un ion dérivé d’une amine organique ;
• R_a’représente un groupe alkyle en C₆-C₃₀ou alcényle en C₆-C₃₀d'un acide R_a’-COOH, qui est de préférence présent dans de l'huile de noix de coco ou dans de l'huile de lin hydrolysée, ou un groupe alkyle, notamment un groupe alkyle en C₁₇et sa forme iso, ou un groupe en C₁₇insaturé ;
• m est égal à 0, 1 ou 2 ; et
• Z représente un atome d’hydrogène ou un groupe hydroxyéthyle ou carboxyméthyle.

in which

• B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ -OX';
• B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
• X' represents the group -CH ₂ -C(O)OH, -CH ₂ -C(O)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(O)OH, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -C(O)OZ' or a hydrogen atom;
• Y' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z';
• Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
• R _a' represents a C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl or C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a C ₁₇ alkyl group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C ₁₇ group;
• m is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
• Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.

Compounds of this type are classified in the CTFA Dictionary, 5th Edition, 1993, as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, and hydroxyethylcarboxymethylcocamidopropylamine.

Non-limiting examples that may be cited include cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ^® C2M Concentrate or under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by Chimex under the trade name Chimexane HA.

Compounds of formula (XIV) can also be used:

R _a'' -NH-CH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n -C(O)NH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (XIV)

• Y’’ représente le groupe –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃H ou le groupe CH₂-CH(OH)-SO₃-Z'' ;
• R_det R_ereprésentent, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, un radical alkyle ou hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₄;
• Z'' représente un contre-ion cationique dérivé d’un métal alcalin ou alcalino-terreux, tel que le sodium, un ion ammonium ou un ion dérivé d’une amine organique ;
• R_a"représente un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₆-C₃₀d’un acide R_a"-C(O)OH qui est de préférence présent dans l’huile de noix de coco ou dans l’huile de lin hydrolysée ; et
• n et n' désignent, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, un nombre entier allant de 1 à 3.

in which

• Y'' represents the group –C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ -CH(OH)-SO ₃ -Z'';
• R _d and R _e represent, independently of one another, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
• Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
• R _a" represents a C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a" -C(O)OH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; and
• n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (XIV), we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

Among the above-mentioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, it is preferable to use (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine (or cocobetaine), (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 0.75% to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactant(s)

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise(s) in particular primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, and/or the salts or quaternary ammonium salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

• ceux correspondant à la formule générale (XV) suivante :

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include:

• those corresponding to the following general formula (XV):

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be the same or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ arylalkyl sulfonates.

Aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, but not limited to, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are selected, for example, from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkylamido-C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl acetate and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of C 1 -C 4 alkyl halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfonates or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl arylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (XV), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, to dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular, to behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or to palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or to stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl ^® 70 by Van Dyk.

- imidazoline quaternary ammonium salts, such as, for example, those of the following formula (XVI):

• R₁₂représente un groupe alcényle ou alkyle comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, par exemple dérivé d’acides gras de suif,
• R₁₃représente un atome d’hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₄ou un groupe alcényle ou alkyle comprenant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone,
• R₁₄représente un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₄,
• R₁₅représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₄; X^-est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures tels que chlorure, bromure et iodure, phosphates, acétates, lactates, sulfates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄et sulfonates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄ou d'alkylaryle en C₁-C₄.

in which

• R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
• R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
• R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
• R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group; X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides such as chloride, bromide and iodide, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkylaryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ denotes a methyl group and R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is marketed, for example, under the name Rewoquat ^® W 75 by Rewo;

- a quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt, in particular of formula (XVII) below:
(XVII)

• R₁₇est choisi parmi l'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle comprenant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone ou un groupe -(CH₂)₃-N⁺(R_16a)(R_17a)(R_18a),
• R_16a, R_17a, R_18a, R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀et R₂₁, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l’hydrogène et un radical alkyle comprenant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et
• X^-est un anion choisi dans le groupe des halogénures, tels que chlorure, bromure et iodure, acétates, phosphates, nitrates, sulfates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄, sulfonates d'alkyle en C₁-C₄ou d'alkylaryle en C₁-C₄, en particulier sulfate de méthyle et sulfate d'éthyle.

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

• R ₁₇ is selected from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a ),
• R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be the same or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and
• X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfates, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, marketed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, marketed by Finetex (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functions, for example those of formula (XVIII) below:

in which:

R ₂₂ is selected from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

• le groupe
• des groupes hydrocarbonés saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés en C₁-C₂₂R₂₇et
• un atome d’hydrogène,

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

• the group
• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₂ R ₂₇ hydrocarbon groups and
• a hydrogen atom,

• le groupe
• des groupes hydrocarbonés en C₁-C₆saturés ou insaturés, linéaires ou ramifiés R₂₉, et
• un atome d’hydrogène,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

• the group
• saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups R ₂₉ , and
• a hydrogen atom,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups;

r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,

r1 and t1, which may be the same or different, have the values 0 or 1,

r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t,

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,

x and z, which may be the same or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

X ^- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic,

provided that the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15, then when x is equal to 0, R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ and when z is equal to 0, R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉ .

The alkyl groups in R ₂₂ can be linear or branched and more particularly, linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group at R ₂₇ , it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ , it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly, from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₁ to C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be the same or different, have the value 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, have the value 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulfate or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or C ₁ -C ₄ arylalkyl sulfonate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with ammonium having an ester function may be used.

The anion X ^- is even more particularly a chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

More particularly, in the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (XVIII) are used in which:

• x et y sont égaux à 1,
• z est égal à 0 ou 1,
• r, s et t sont égaux à 2,
• R₂₃est choisi parmi :

• le groupe
• méthyle, éthyle ou des groupes hydrocarbonés en C₁₄-C₂₂, et
• un atome d’hydrogène,
  • R₂₅est choisi parmi :
• le groupe, et
• un atome d’hydrogène,
  • R₂₄, R₂₆et R₂₈, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi les groupes hydrocarbonés linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés en C₁₃à C₁₇et, de préférence parmi les groupes alkyle et alcényle linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés en C₁₃à C₁₇.

R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

• x and y are equal to 1,
• z is equal to 0 or 1,
• r, s and t are equal to 2,
• R ₂₃ is chosen from:

• the group
• methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, and
• a hydrogen atom,
  • R ₂₅ is chosen from:
• the group , And
• a hydrogen atom,
  • R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be the same or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups and, preferably, from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₁₃ to C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (XVIII), there may be mentioned, for example, salts, in particular diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, these may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably a methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably a dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ^® by Henkel, Stepanquat ^® by Stepan, Noxamium ^® by Ceca or Rewoquat ^® WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a predominance by weight of diester salts.

Examples of these compounds include distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and in particular methosulfates.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which are described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

Alternatively, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride can be used, for example, sold by KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants, preference is more particularly given to those of formula (XV) such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, and more particularly, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total amount of surfactants may range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight. at 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional cationic polymer(s)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional cationic polymers different from the polymers a) described above. These optional additional cationic polymers are non-silicone polymers.

The additional cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between about 500 and 5×10 ⁶ and preferably between about 10 ³ and 3×10 ⁶ .

1. les polysaccharides cationiques, notamment les celluloses cationiques et les gommes galactomannane. Parmi les polysaccharides cationiques , on peut mentionner plus particulièrement les dérivés d’éthers de cellulose comprenant des groupes ammonium quaternaire, les copolymères de cellulose cationique ou les dérivés de cellulose greffés avec un monomère d’ammonium quaternaire soluble dans l’eau, et les gommes de galactomannane cationiques.

Among the additional cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly:

1. cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in French patent 1,492,597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Dow chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, and hydroxyalkylcelluloses may be mentioned, for example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular with a dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names CELQUAT L 200 and CELQUAT H 100 by the company National Starch.

1. Les polymères formés de motifs pipérazinyle et de radicaux alkylène ou hydroxyalkylène divalents contenant des chaînes linéaires ou ramifiées, facultativement interrompues par des atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou d'azote ou par des cycles aromatiques ou hétérocycliques, ainsi que les produits d'oxydation et/ou de quaternisation de ces polymères.
2. Les polyaminoamides solubles dans l’eau préparés en particulier par polycondensation d’un composé acide avec une polyamine ; ces polyaminoamides peuvent être réticulés avec une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde, un dianhydride, un dianhydride insaturé, un dérivé bis-insaturé, une bis-halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un halogénure de bis-alkyle ou alternativement avec un oligomère résultant de la réaction d’un composé difonctionnel qui est réactif avec une bis-halohydrine, un bis-azétidinium, une bis-haloacyldiamine, un halogénure de bis-alkyle, une épihalohydrine, un diépoxyde ou un dérivé bis-insaturé ; l’agent de réticulation étant utilisé dans des plages allant de 0,025 à 0,35 mol par groupe amine du polyamino amide ; ces polyamino amides peuvent être alkylés ou, s’ils contiennent une ou plusieurs fonctions amine tertiaire, ils peuvent être quaternisés.
3. Les dérivés polyamino amides résultant de la condensation de polyalkylène polyamines avec des acides polycarboxyliques suivie d'une alkylation avec des agents difonctionnels. On peut citer, par exemple, les polymères d'acide adipique/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylènetriamine dans lesquels le radical alkyle comprend de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone et désigne préférablement le méthyle, l'éthyle ou le propyle. Parmi ces dérivés, on peut citer plus particulièrement les polymères d'acide adipique/diméthylaminohydroxypropyl/diéthylènetriamine vendus sous le nom Cartaretine F, F4 ou F8 par la société Sandoz.
4. Les polymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyalkylène polyamine incluant deux groupes amines primaires et au moins un groupe amine secondaire avec un acide dicarboxylique choisi parmi l'acide diglycolique et les acides dicarboxyliques aliphatiques saturés contenant de 3 à 8 atomes de carbone ; le rapport molaire entre la polyalkylène polyamine et l'acide dicarboxylique étant compris entre 0,8:1 et 1,4:1 ; le polyaminoamide résultant étant mis à réagir avec l'épichlorhydrine dans un rapport molaire de l'épichlorhydrine par rapport au groupe amine secondaire du polyaminoamide préférablement compris entre 0,5:1 et 1,8:1. Des polymères de ce type sont vendus en particulier sous le nom HERCOSETT 57 par la société Hercules Inc. ou encore sous le nom de PD 170 ou DELSETTE 101 par la société Hercules dans le cas du copolymère acide adipique/époxypropyle/diéthylènetriamine.
5. Les cyclopolymères d’alkyldiallylamine ou de dialkyldiallylammonium, tels que les homopolymères ou copolymères contenant, comme constituant principal de la chaîne, des motifs répondant à la formule (XXX) ou (XXXI) :

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Patents 3,589,578 and US Patent 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example the chloride) may be used. Such products are sold in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 and JAGUAR C162 by the company Rhodia.

1. Polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers.
2. Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in ranges from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyamino amide; These polyamino amides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized.
3. Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Examples include adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
4. Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name HERCOSETT 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or DELSETTE 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
5. Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers or copolymers containing, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to the formula (XXX) or (XXXI):

• k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ;
• R₁₂désigne un atome d’hydrogène ou un radical méthyle ;
• R₁₀et R₁₁, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, désignent un groupe alkyle en C₁-C_6,un groupe hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₅, un groupe amidoalkyle en C₁-C₄; ou en variante R₁₀et R₁₁peuvent désigner, conjointement avec l’atome d’azote auquel ils sont liés, un groupe hétérocyclique tel que pipéridyle ou morpholinyle ; R₁₀et R₁₁, indépendamment l’un de l’autre, désignent de préférence un groupe alkyle en C₁-C₄; et
• Y^-est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate ou phosphate.

in which:

• k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
• R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
• R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, denote a C ₁ -C _{6 alkyl group,} a C ₁ -C ₅ hydroxyalkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₄ amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, preferably denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group; and
• Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

1. Les polymères de diammonium quaternaire comprenant des motifs répétés de formule :

We can cite more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example, chloride) sold for example under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company Nalco.

1. Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:

• R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅et R₁₆, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques ou arylaliphatiques comprenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux aliphatiques hydroxyalkyle en C₁-C₁₂,

in which:

• R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals,

or otherwise R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, form with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second non-nitrogen heteroatom,

• A1 et B1 représentent des groupes polyméthylène divalents comprenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone qui peuvent être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et qui peuvent contenir, liés à ou insérés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène ou de soufre ou des groupes sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et
• X^-désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique ;

or otherwise R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -D group in which R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

• A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
• X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

1. un résidu glycol de formule -O-Z-O-, dans laquelle Z désigne un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, ou un groupe répondant à l'une des formules suivantes : -(CH₂-CH₂-O)_x-CH₂-CH₂- et -[CH₂CH(CH₃)-O]_y-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-, où x et y désignent un nombre entier de 1 à 4, représentant un degré de polymérisation défini et unique ou tout nombre de 1 à 4 représentant un degré de polymérisation moyen ;

1. un résidu diamine bis-secondaire, tel qu'un dérivé de pipérazine ;
2. un résidu bis-diamine primaire de formule : -NH-Y-NH-, où Y désigne un radical hydrocarboné linéaire ou ramifié, ou sinon le radical divalent
   -CH₂-CH₂-S-S-CH₂-CH₂- ;
3. un groupe uréylène de formule : -NH-CO-NH- ;

furthermore, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _p - in which n and p, which may be the same or different, denote an integer from 2 to 20, and in which D denotes:

1. a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - and -[CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

1. a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
2. a primary bis-diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or otherwise the divalent radical
   -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;
3. a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

We can cite more particularly polymers which are composed of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
(XXXIII)

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which may be the same or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

1. Les polymères d'ammonium polyquaternaire comprenant des motifs de formule (XXXIV) :

A particularly preferred compound of formula (XXXIII) is that for which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known under the name Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

1. Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (XXXIV):

• R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀et R₂₁, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe méthyle, éthyle, propyle, β-hydroxyéthyle, β-hydroxypropyle ou
  -CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pOH, dans lequel p est égal à 0 ou à un entier compris entre 1 et 6, à condition que R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀et R₂₁ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène,
• r et s, qui peuvent être identiques ou différents, sont des entiers compris entre 1 et 6,
• q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34,
• X- désigne un anion, tel qu'un halogénure,
• A désigne un radical dihalogénure ou représente préférablement --CH₂-CH_2-O-CH₂-CH₂-.

in which:

• R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or
  -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
• r and s, which may be the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
• q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,
• X- denotes an anion, such as a halide,
• A denotes a dihalide radical or preferably represents --CH ₂ -CH _2- O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

1. Les polymères quaternaires de vinylpyrrolidone et de vinylimidazole, par exemple les produits vendus sous les noms Luviquat^®FC 905, FC 550 et FC 370 par la société BASF.
2. Les polyamines telles quePolyquart^®H vendu par Cognis, référencé sous le nom Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine dans le dictionnaire CTFA.
3. Les polymères comprenant dans leur structure :
   1. un ou plusieurs motifs correspondant à la formule (A) ci-dessous :

1. facultativement, un ou plusieurs motifs correspondant à la formule (B) ci-dessous :

Examples include the products Mirapol ^® A15, Mirapol ^® AD1, Mirapol ^® AZ1 and Mirapol ^® 175 sold by the company Miranol.

1. Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, for example the products sold under the names Luviquat ^® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.
2. Polyamines such as Polyquart ^® H sold by Cognis, referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
3. Polymers comprising in their structure:
   1. one or more patterns corresponding to formula (A) below:

1. optionally, one or more patterns corresponding to formula (B) below:

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. The hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.

The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, can range from 1,000 to 3,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 g/mol and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mol.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for example, but not limited to, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Further cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

The additional cationic polymers, different from the cationic/amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units described above, are preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides.

The additional cationic polymers are more preferably selected from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups (preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, and more preferably methyl groups), more preferably from C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyl-alkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups, cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with trimethylammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably the additional cationic polymers are cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with trimethylammonium groups.

• un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques et/ou amphotères comprenant un ou plusieurs motif(s) acrylique(s) et/ou méthacrylique(s), choisi(s) de préférence parmi des copolymères d'halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylamide, des terpolymères d'halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylamide/acide (méth)acrylique, des terpolymères d'halogénure de (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en C₁-C₆)tri(alkyle en C₁-C₄) ammonium/(méth)acrylate d'alkle en C₁-C₆/acide (méth)acrylique ; des copolymères d'acide (méth)acrylique/chlorure de diméthyldiallylammonium et des mélanges de ceux-ci, et
• un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques supplémentaires, différents des polymères a) décrits plus haut, choisis de préférence parmi les polysaccharides cationiques correspondant à la famille générale (1) ; choisis plus préférentiellement parmi les gommes de guar cationiques comprenant des groupes trialkylammonium ; mieux encore parmi les gommes de guar hydroxyalkyle comprenant des groupes trialkylammonium ; les dérivés d'éther de cellulose comprenant des groupes ammonium quaternaire, tels que les polymères d'ammonium quaternaire d'hydroxyéthylcellulose qui a réagi avec un époxyde, substitués par des groupes triméthylammonium, et leurs mélanges, et encore plus préférablement, les polymères supplémentaires sont choisis parmi les dérivés d'éther de cellulose comprenant des groupes ammonium quaternaire, et leurs mélanges, tels que les polymères d'ammonium quaternaire d'hydroxyéthylcellulose qui a réagi avec un époxyde substitués par des groupes triméthylammonium.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition may comprise:

• one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units, preferably chosen from (meth)acrylamido(C 10 alkyl) halide copolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/(meth)acrylamide, (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 2 alkyl) halide terpolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 2 alkyl) halide terpolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/C-alkyl (meth)acrylate₁-C₆/(meth)acrylic acid; (meth)acrylic acid/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers and mixtures thereof, And
• one or more additional cationic polymers, different from the polymers a) described above, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides corresponding to the general family (1); more preferably chosen from cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups; better still from hydroxyalkyl guar gums comprising trialkylammonium groups; cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide, substituted by trimethylammonium groups, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably, the additional polymers are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, and mixtures thereof, such as quaternary ammonium polymers of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted by trimethylammonium groups.

The amount of additional cationic polymer(s), different from the polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units, when present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The amount of additional cationic polymer(s) different from the polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units, chosen from cationic polysaccharides when they are present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, preferably ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Optional additive(s)

The composition of the invention may also contain various additives traditionally used in hair compositions.

As additives that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of anionic or nonionic polymers, additional amphoteric polymers different from the polymers a) previously described, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, fatty substances, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymer thickeners, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

The above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 40% by weight, and preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this optional additive or additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not significantly, negatively affected by the addition or additions envisaged.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition according to the invention as described above and optionally removing it by rinsing after an optional application time.

The application time of the composition on the keratin fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, better still from 5 seconds to 10 minutes and even better from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

The composition can be applied to wet or dry keratin fibers.

The composition could be a shampoo, conditioner or conditioner,

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention as described above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

In the present invention, the expression “keratin fibers” designates human keratin fibers, and in particular human hair.

In the above description, all preferred embodiments regarding the components may be used individually or in combination.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLES

In the examples which follow, and unless otherwise indicated, the quantities are indicated as percentages by weight of active ingredient (AI) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1 : Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion

450 g of amino silicone fluid (trimethylsilyl-terminated aminoethyl-aminopropylmethylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer with an amine number of 7.2 mg KOH/g sample and a viscosity of 5600 mPa.s at 25 °C) were introduced into an emulsion tank. Stirring was started and 1800 g of trimethylsilyl-terminated dimethylsiloxane polymer fluid with a viscosity of 61500 mPa.s at 25 °C were introduced under stirring into the same tank. The two fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.

In a separate tank, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60 °C. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. Then 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active material) were added. This mixture of nonionic emulsifiers had an HLB value = 11.25.

Then 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were added to the tank and mixing was started. Mixing was continued until the entire mass became a creamy paste. The entire paste was added to the emulsion tank. Homogenization was ensured for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 60 minutes. 72.7 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was ensured for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of demineralized water was added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes. Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol as a biocide was added and homogenization was carried out for 3 minutes.

A stable oil-in-water emulsion with a D50 particle size of 170 nm was obtained.

Example 2

Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2 and C3 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of AM).

Composition C1
(Invention) C2
(Comp.) C3
(Comp.) Coco-betaine 1.2 1.2 1.2 Sodium laureth sulfate 12.6 12.6 12.6 Sodium chloride 1.4 1.4 1.4 Carbomer 0.35 0.35 0.35 Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride copolymer/
acrylamide (=APTAC/AA) 0.072 0.072 - Polyquaternium-10 0.4 0.4 0.4 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 Stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3
(from example 1) 5% emulsion, i.e. 0.5% MA SiA + 2% MA Si 5% emulsion, i.e. 0.5% MA SiA + 2% MA Si 5% emulsion, i.e. 0.5% MA SiA + 2% MA Si Glycerin 0.5 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 0.2 0.2 0.2 Hexylene glycol 0.6 0.6 0.6 Polyester-11 1 - 1 Preservatives, pH agent qs qs qs Water Qs 100 100 100

*MA = active ingredient

SiA: amodimethicone

Yes: PDMS

The compositions could be used as a shampoo.

Detangling property

The following protocol was used:

A 3-gram, 20-cm-long lock of hair was soaked in tap water. Fingers were then passed through the lock of hair five times for five seconds. Each lock was passed between two fingers to remove excess water (1 pass). Each lock was then wrapped around the fingers, or each lock was placed in a watch glass.

Compositions C1, C2 and C3 were applied to each strand of hair (evenly from roots to ends). An amount of 1.2 g of each composition was used.

The strands were gently massaged by passing each strand between two fingers about six times for fifteen seconds, from roots to ends (without creating knots) so as to lather the compositions.

The strands were then rinsed under running water and the fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds.

Finally, we passed each strand between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passes).

Combing was carried out in the wet state.

The peak load (expressed in milliNewton (mN)) was measured: the peak load corresponds to the maximum force required to comb the strand of hair. The less force, the better the combability and conditioning of the hair.

Wet combing

Three strands of hair (each weighing 3.0 g and 20 cm long) were used per treatment group.

The hair strand was soaked in distilled water for 1 minute, then combed 5 times on each side, and wet combing was then measured.

Five measurements were taken per strand using a combing tester to assess the product performance. The peak load was then measured (this is the maximum force required to comb the sample; the starting position is at 40 mm and the combing speed is 1500 mm/minute).

The results are grouped in Table 2 below:

C1 (invention) C2 (comparative) C3 (comparative) Average measurement (mN) 709.31 747.07 782.77 Standard deviation 41.97 31.09 42.17 P value 0.01 0.00

The p-value was calculated for compositions C2 or C3 compared to composition C1 according to the invention. When the p-value < 0.05, the difference is significant.

Therefore, Table 2 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in significantly improved combability and conditioning of the hair. As such, the use of the polymer of the invention results in significantly improved detangling of the hair. The synergy of the polymer with the polyester was observed by a very low average peak charge measurement in formula C1, compared to formula C2 (with polymer only) and C3 (with polyesteramine only).

Silicone deposit

Each composition C1, C2 and C3 was applied 5 times to hair strands with a rinse step after each application, and the silicone deposition was measured using a WDXRF Optim’x Thermofischer (wavelength dispersion) XRF system on 250 mg hair samples. The principle is based on the radiation emission characteristics of the chemical element, produced by the impact of high-energy photons delivered by an X-ray tube.

• écoulement de gaz hélium – argon/méthane (90/10) ;
• tube à rayons X (Rh), cristal PET et détecteur FPC ;
• tension 25 kV-2 mA ;
• 3 mesures/mèche = 60 s/mesure ;
• taille minimale de l’échantillon 250 mg (morceaux de 2 mm).

Operating parameters:

• helium gas flow – argon/methane (90/10);
• X-ray tube (Rh), PET crystal and FPC detector;
• voltage 25 kV-2 mA;
• 3 measures/strand = 60 s/measure;
• minimum sample size 250 mg (2 mm pieces).

Protocol

0.4 g of composition was applied to 1 g of hair strand. The shampoo was massaged 6 times with the fingers from the root to the tip to generate foam. The strand was then rinsed under running water (25 °C) for 10 seconds. The strand was then dried at room temperature (RT)/45 °C in an oven. This procedure was counted as 1 wash, followed by 4 additional washes to complete 5 wash cycles.

This measurement was carried out after one application and after 5 applications for each composition.

The quantities of silicone deposited are indicated in Table 4 below, in ppm.

C1 (inv) C2 (comp) C3 (comp) Application No. 1 4103 ± 32 3784 ± 44 BQL 5 8011 ± 42 7356 ± 56 145 ± 22

BQL: below the limit of quantification (80 ppm)

Table 3 shows that the use of the polymer of the invention results in a considerably improved amount of silicone deposited on the hair. The synergy of the polymer with the polyester was observed by a very significant silicone deposition in formula C1, compared to formula C2 (with polymer only) and C3 (with polyesteramine only).

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) one or more cationic and/or amphoteric polymers comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
(b) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and comprising:
– a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxane having a viscosity of from 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of from 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine number of from 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone,
– a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, the mixture of emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 16, and
– water; and
(c) one or more polyesteramines. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the polymer(s) a) are chosen from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic and/or methacrylic monomers, and preferably from homopolymers or copolymers resulting from the (co)polymerization of one or more monomers including one or more monomers of structure (I):
(I)
in which:
– R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical,
– R ₂ denotes a hydroxyl radical, an NR ₃ R ₄ radical or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkoxy radical, said alkoxy radical being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N ⁺ R ₅ R ₆ R ₇ ; Y ^- ) or by an NR ₈ R ₉ radical,
– R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, by a quaternary ammonium radical (N+R5R6R7; Y-), by an NR8R9 radical or by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), and
– R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl radical or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical;
– R8 and R9, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; and
– Y- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or a halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer(s) a) are chosen from:
- (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 2 -C 3 )alkyl halide copolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/(meth)acrylamide, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 2 alkyl) halide terpolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/(meth)acrylamide/(meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide/methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers,
- (meth)acrylamido(C 1 -C 2 -C 3 )alkyl halide terpolymers₁-C₆)tri(C alkyl)₁-C₄) ammonium/C alkyl (meth)acrylate₁-C₆/(meth)acrylic acid, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/C alkyl (meth)acrylate terpolymers₁-C₆/(meth)acrylic acid; more preferably, terpolymers of acrylic acid/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/methyl acrylates,
– (meth)acrylic acid/dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers;
– and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the trialkylsilyl-terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes are of formula (IX): R' ₃ SiO(R' ₂ SiO) _p SiR' ₃
in which:
– R', identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and
– p is an integer from 500 to 2,000, preferably from 1,000 to 2,000,
and are preferably trimethylsilyl terminated PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones). Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino silicones, which are preferably of formula (X): XR ₂ Si(OSiAR) _n (OSiR ₂ ) _m OSiR ₂ X
in which:
– R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group; preferably X is R,
– A is an amino radical of formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a C1-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1; and
– m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;
preferably A is an amino radical of the formula -R1-[NR2-R3-]xNR22, or the protonated amino forms of said amino radical, in which R ¹ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -, R ² are hydrogen atoms, R ³ is -CH ₂ CH ₂ -, and x is 1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylsilyl terminated dialkylpolysiloxanes having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25°C and an amine value of 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyesteramine(s) is (are) chosen from polyesteramines (Ia) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) at least one organic amine, preferably at least one alkanolamine, more preferably at least one tertiary alkanolamine;
(ii) at least one polyol, preferably at least one polyol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms;
(iii) at least one dicarboxylic acid, preferably at least one dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; and
(iv) – at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms;
preferably chosen from polyesteramines (Ib) resulting from the reaction of:
(i) bis-hydroxyethyl methylamine;
(ii) glycerin;
(iii) adipic acid; and
(iv) at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably at least one fatty acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more surfactants. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, in which a composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to said keratin fibres. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres.