FR3014689A1 - WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION COMPRISING AN ESTER OF FATTY ACID AND POLYOL, A BEES WAX AND PARTICLES OF EXPANDED POLYMERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous fatty phase, comprising at least one fatty acid and polyol ester. at least one beeswax and expanded polymer particles. The composition of the invention makes it possible to improve the sensory properties of the cosmetic compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, by allowing a more complete absorption, minimizing the residual greasy or sticky film on the skin. It also has good stability, in the short term (centrifugation) and long term, and when it is subjected to large temperature variations, in particular it is very robust when subjected to temperature cycles between - 20 ° C and + 20 ° C.

Description

The present application relates to a composition for topical application in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprising a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous fat phase, comprising at least one fatty acid ester and polyol, at least one beeswax and expanded polymer particles, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, and in particular for care, hygiene, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair, preferably for the care of the skin of the body or face. In the cosmetic field, and more particularly in the field of skincare and make-up, it is common practice to use galenic architectures that are rich in oils, in particular with a continuous fat phase (for example in anhydrous form or in emulsified form, such as water-in-oil), in order to obtain a protective film, possibly waterproof. These galenics have the advantage of being good active vehicles or sunscreens or good supports for care compositions (for the treatment of dry skin) or makeup due to their film-forming effect and good resistance film formed on the skin. In return, these film-forming compositions have drawbacks, in particular of sensory order and comfort of use. Indeed, the residual film is often perceived as fat and gives a feeling of skin that does not breathe. Moreover, the compositions in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion are not easy to stabilize, in particular with regard to large variations in temperature. There is therefore a need for well-balanced and comfortable compositions providing felt effects of protected and nourished skin without leaving too much residual film, which are stable in the short and long term, and robust with respect to large variations in temperature. The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that the combination of expanded polymer particles with a fatty acid and polyol ester and a beeswax made it possible to obtain compositions having good film-forming properties while retaining good cosmetic properties. such as a pleasant sensation on the skin. Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous fatty phase, comprising at least one fatty acid ester and polyol, at least one beeswax and expanded polymer particles. Since the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes). The composition of the invention makes it possible to improve the sensory properties of the cosmetic compositions in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, by allowing a more complete absorption, minimizing the residual greasy or sticky film on the skin. It also has a good stability, in the short term, evaluated for example by centrifugation, and in the long term, evaluated for example by placing in an oven at 2 months 45 ° C., and when subjected to large temperature variations in particular, it exhibits great robustness when it is subjected to temperature cycles of between -20 ° C. and + 20 ° C. The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances consisting in applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined above. The subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, the protection and / or the make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair , preferably for the care of the skin of the body or face. In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. Expanded Polymer Particles According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the expanded polymer particles are particles having an average particle size of 1 to 300 microns (mw), for example from 5 to 200 μm, and preferably from 10 to 100! am, and even better from 20 to 50! am. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the expanded polymer particles have a density of less than 0.1, especially less than 0.09, and better still, less than 0.06, and more preferably less than 0.05.

In order to obtain this low density, it is advantageous to use hollow particles optionally filled with a gas. This gas can be in particular air, nitrogen, isobutane, isopentane. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the particles are in the form of beads. However, it is possible to use particles in the form of fibers or needles.

These particles may be made of different inert materials that do not react chemically with the medium; in particular, these particles do not react with the oils, the surfactants, the water and the various other constituents of the composition such as the active agents.

The particles are advantageously chosen from particles of thermoplastic materials themselves chosen from polymers or copolymers of acrylonitrile, vinylidene chloride, vinyl chloride and / or acrylic or styrenic monomer, optionally expanded, and microporous microspheres. The acrylic monomer is, for example, a methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate. The styrenic monomer is, for example, α-methylstyrene or styrene. Preferably, the particles are deformable hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile, or vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and (meth) acrylate or styrenic monomer. It is possible, for example, to use a polymer containing 0-60% of units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20-90% of units derived from acrylonitrile and 0-50% of units derived from an acrylic or styrenic monomer, the sum of the percentages. (by weight) being equal to 100%. The acrylic monomer may be methyl or ethyl (meth) acrylate. The styrenic monomer may be styrene or α-methyl styrene. More preferably, the particles used in the present invention are hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate. These particles can be dry or hydrated. Preferably, the density of these particles is chosen in the range from 15 to 200 kg / m 3 and better still from 40 to 120 kg / m 3, and more preferably from 60 to 80 kg / m 3.

The particles that can be used in the invention are, for example, the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methyl methacrylate, sold under the trademark Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel and in particular under the references 551 DE 12 (granulometry D (0.5) of about 12 μm and density of about 40 kg / m 3), 551 DE (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 μm and density of about 60 kg / m3), 551 DE 50 (particle size D (0.5) of about 40 μm), 461 DE 50 and 642 VVE 50 of 50 μm of particle size D (0.5) approximately, 551 DE 80 (particle size D (0, 5) from about 50 to 80 μm). It is also possible to use particles of this same expanded terpolymer having a particle size D (0.5) of approximately 18 μm and a density of approximately 60 to 80 kg / m3 (Expancel EL23) or else of particle size D (0). 5) of about 34 μm and density of about 20 kg / m3. The EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 d42 particles (particle size D (0.5) of approximately 30 to 50 μm and density of approximately 42 kg / m 3) can also be mentioned. 551 DE 80 d42 (particle size D (0.5) about 50 to 80 μm and density of about 42 kg / m3), 461 DE 20 d70 (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 μm and density of about 70 kg / m3), 461 DE 40 d25 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 25 kg / m3), 461 DE 40 d60 (particle size D (0.5) of about 20 to 40 μm and density of about 60 kg / m 3), 461 DET 40 d25 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 25 kg / m 3), 051 DE 40 d 60 (particle size D (0.5) of about 20 to 40 μm and density of about 60 kg / m3), 091 DE 40 d30 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 30 kg / m3), 091 DE 80 d30 (particle size D (0.5) of about 60 to 90 μm and density of about 30 kg / m3). Preferably, particles EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 d42 are used. According to a particular embodiment, the expanded polymer particles are microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate.

The expanded polymer particles are generally present in the composition according to the invention in concentrations of raw material ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight. weight.

Fatty acid and polyol esters Within the context of the invention, the term "polyol" is understood to mean a hydrocarbon molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl radicals. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester (s) and polyol (s) used in the context of the invention are fatty acid (or fatty acid polymer) and polyol esters in which the fatty acid comprises a hydrocarbon chain, preferably a C6-C24 alkyl radical, preferably a C10-C20 alkyl radical. The fatty acid may also be a C16-C20 fatty acid in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid). Examples of C6-C24 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer is poly12-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, poly12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof will be used. The polyol of the polyol fatty acid ester (s) may be selected from a polyol such as glycerine, polyglycerol, sorbitan.

According to one particular embodiment, the polyol of the fatty acid or polyol ester (s) comprises 3 carbon atoms. More particularly, the polyol comprises an alkyl group and two or three hydroxyl groups. Preferably, it is glycerin.

According to another particular embodiment, the polyol of the fatty acid and polyol esters is a polyglycerol. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula: in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6. The fatty acid or polyol ester (s) may for example containing from 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably from 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular from 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, oligoglycerols).

Even more preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles (or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol. According to another particular embodiment, the polyol of the fatty acid or polyol ester (s) is sorbitan. As examples of fatty acid and polyol esters that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of isostearic acid and polyol esters and their mixtures, in particular esters of isostearic acid and of glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI® by the company Cognis (BASF) whose INCI name is: POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE; polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA® by the Nihon emulsion company; polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol decaglyn 1-15 by the company Nihon Chemicals (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate); the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS® by Evonik Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company Uniquema, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690-LQ- (MV) ® by the company CRODA, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of: the diester of dilinoleic acid and of polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, such as that marketed under the name Isolan PDI by the company Evonik-Goldschmidt, whose INCI name is: Dl ISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER Dl LI NOLEATE; polyglycerol polyricinoleate, such as that marketed under the name AKOLINE PGPR by the company Aarhuskarl Shamn, whose INCI name is: POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE; 2-polyglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate, such as that marketed under the name Dehymuls PGPH by Cognis (BASF); DECAGLYCERYL POLYRICINOLEATE, such as that sold under the name NIKKOL DECAGLYN PR-20 by the company Nikko Chemicals; - POLYGLYCERYL-2 STEARATE such as that marketed under the name Nikkol DGMS by the company Nikko Chemicals; POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAHYDROXYSTEARATE, such as that sold under the name NIKKOL DECAGLYN 5-HS by the company Nikko Chemicals; POLYGLYCERYL-10 STEARATE, such as that sold under the name NIKKOL DECAGLYN 1-SV by the company Nikko Chemicals.

As preferred fatty acid and polyglycerol esters according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134® by Evonik Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl -4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name Isolan GPS® by Evonik Goldschmidt, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690® by Croda, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and polyol ester (s) are (C16-C20) fatty acid esters of glycerol, polyglycerol which may contain from 2 to 10 moles (units) of glycerol and / or sorbitan. Preferably, the fatty acid and polyol ester (s) are C 16 -C 20 fatty acid and polyglycerol esters. Preferably, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt will be used in the composition of the invention. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. carbon, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (Cio), and polyol. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and polyol ester according to the invention is an ester of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and of dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 1 to 10, preferably from 2 to 8, still more preferably from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid); and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms (preferably isostearic acid). Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 and 40%, preferably between 40 and 70%. Such esters of polyl2-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol are described in application US2005 / 0031580. In a preferred embodiment, the polyol fatty acid ester is an ester of polyhydroxystearic acid and dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) a polyhydroxystearic acid, with from 2 to 5 units polyglycerol (preferably 4 units); (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms (preferably sebacic acid) and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms (from preferably isostearic acid).

As a preferred example of polyhydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol acid ester, there may be mentioned 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate of formula: 1s where PHS denotes polyhydroxystearic acid and IS denotes isostearic acid. Such a compound may for example be prepared according to the process described in US2005 / 0031580.

Even more preferably, the polyglyceryl 4-diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS® by Evonik Goldschmidt will be used in the composition of the invention.

The content of fatty acid and polyol ester (s) in the composition according to the invention is adapted to the aqueous and fatty phase contents of the composition. The fatty acid or polyol ester (s) may in particular be present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight. %, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, and even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The proportion of the fatty phase can range, for example, from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This indicated amount does not include the content of lipophilic surfactants, in particular the fatty acid or polyol ester (s) present in the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes any fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or that is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, present in the said fatty phase. composition. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises beeswax, such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax) and synthetic beeswax, preferably beeswax. natural, such as for example that marketed under the name WHITE BEESWAX SP 453P by STRAHL & PITSCH. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of beeswax is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from solid fatty substances and pasty fatty substances other than beeswax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change having, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. liquid and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty fatty substance may be greater than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fatty substance sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to the standard ISO 113573: 1999. The enthalpy of melting of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to pass the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably selected from synthetic fats and vegetable fats. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG- 5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company VEVY, a mixture in which the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, especially: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols in C 2-C100, preferably C 2 -C 50, the esters, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company CREMER OLEO arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by ALZO; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives; pentaerythritol esters; diol dimer and diacid dimer esters; if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acid radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters may in particular be chosen from the following INCI nomenclature esters: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA, Lusplan PHY / IS-DA), phytosteryl isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and their mixtures, - mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil mixtures such as hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture of soybean, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), - shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed so The Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cocoa butter, in particular that sold under the name CT COCOA BUTTER DEODORIZED by the company DUTCH COCOA BV or the one marketed under the name BUTTER OF COCOA NCB HD703 758 by the BARRY CALLEBAUT company; shorea butter, in particular that marketed under the name DUB SHOREA® by the company STEARI NERI E DUBOIS; - and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oils of soya, coconut, palm and rapeseed, and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above.

The additional waxes considered in the context of the present invention are generally lipophilic, solid, deformable or non-deformable compounds, at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a point melting greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. By carrying one or more waxes, according to the invention, in the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make them or to be miscible with one or more oils and to form a mixture of wax (es) and oil. (S), macroscopically homogeneous, but by bringing the temperature of said mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax (es) in the oil (s) of the mixture is obtained. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax, placed in a crucible, is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to - 20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally is subjected to a second temperature rise from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. They can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone.

As examples, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as carnauba wax, rice bran wax such as that marketed under the reference NC 1720 by the company CERA RICA NODA, Candellila wax such as that marketed under the reference SP 75 G by the company STRAHL & PITSCH, microcrystalline waxes such as microcrystalline waxes whose melting point is greater than 85 ° C such as the products HI-MICO 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 marketed by the NIPPON SEIRO company, ceresins or ozokerites such as isoparaffins whose melting point is less than 40 ° C such as the product EMW-0003 marketed by the company NIPPON SEIRO, α-olefin oligomers such as polymers PERFORMA V® 825, 103 and 260 sold by NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES; ethylene-propylene copolymers such as PERFORMALENE® EP 700, polyethylene waxes (preferably of molecular weight between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes, sunflower seed wax marketed by KOSTER KEUNEN under the reference sunflower wax. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluorinated waxes. Mention may also be made of polymethylene waxes; silicone wax sold under the name DOW CORNING 2501 COSMETIC WAX by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, the mixture of vegetable waxes (mimosa / jojoba) polyglycerolated (3 moles) sold under the name HYDRACIRE S by the company Gattefosse, the hydrogenated castor oil marketed under the name Antisettle CVP by Cray Valley The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile oil The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure, The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal origin, or vegetable oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof For the purposes of the present invention, the term " silicone oil ", an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

Non-volatile oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg). The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as oleate phytostearyl, isostearate of physostearyl and glutanate of lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl, for example sold under the name ELDEW PS203 by AJINOMOTO, triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have lengths various chains of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by Cognis; hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, for example: synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene; synthetic esters such as oils; of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10. The esters may in particular be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitate or 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as lactam isostearyl ester, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl-2-hexylate, and mixtures thereof, benzoates of 015 to 015 alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as di pentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, diol dimeric diol and dimer esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical. and described in application FR 03 02809, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and - di-alkyl carbonates, 2 alkyl chains that may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis (BASF), non-volatile silicone oils, such as polydi non-volatile methylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyls; trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 Cst, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof. Volatile oils For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6). - pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example isododecane and isohexadecane sold by the company IN EOS. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 atoms. silicon, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and hexamethyl. disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used. It is also possible to use a mixture of the above-mentioned oils.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol). The fatty phase may also contain other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling and / or structuring agents. These compounds may especially be chosen from gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethylC1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by Shin-Etsu, under the name "Trefil" by Dow Corning, or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; and their mixtures. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

According to one particular embodiment, the level of silicone fatty substances in the composition is less than 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase. Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention mainly comprises non-silicone fatty substances. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water. According to the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase may range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, better still from 20 to 85% by weight, and still more preferably from 40 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, better still at least 50% by weight. % in weight. The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have for example the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a paste, a mousse, butter, balm.

The emulsions may contain at least one additional emulsifier different from the fatty acid and polyol esters as defined above. This or these additional emulsifiers may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. These are W / O emulsifiers and / or O / W emulsifiers. They are appropriately selected to obtain an W / O emulsion. For the W / O emulsifiers, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, the PEG-10 oxyethylenated dimethylsiloxane DIMETHICONE sold under the name KF-6017 by the company Shin Etsu, alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL VVE 09 by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT. For O / W emulsifiers which can be used in W / O structures, mention may be made, for example, of emulsifiers, nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters having, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say containing oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. As glyceryl ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or glyceryl tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof) Mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing Glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 can also be used. stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. rbone, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl alcohols (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). For example, ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned. Mention may be made, by way of examples of mono or polyalkyl esters or sugar ethers, of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda. sucrose stearate marketed under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTER S 1570 and sucrose tristearate marketed under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTER S 370 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods. Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates, for instance mono-sodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-11PF and disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft HS-21P by the name Ajinomoto company. The additional emulsifier or emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion of active material ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain silicone emulsifier (s). According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid or polyol ester (s) are present in the composition as a majority emulsifier (s). In the context of the present invention, the term "majority emulsifier" means that in the case where the composition contains additional emulsifiers different from the fatty acid and polyol esters, they are always each present in a lower amount by weight. the weight amount of fatty acid esters and polyol.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid or polyol ester (s) are present in the composition as sole emulsifier (s). In known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, gelling agents and / or hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents; charges ; and their mixtures.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Active ingredients As an example of an active ingredient, and in a nonlimiting manner, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA ), the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-21-ascorbyl-phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the Company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures. Among the hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation, ascorbic acid is used according to a preferred embodiment of the invention. Ascorbic acid can be of any kind. Thus, it can be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of preferably concentrated orange juice. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form. Other active agents which may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, sugars such as mannose, trehalose, xylitol or sorbitol, and polyols such as glycerin, glycols such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; and the acids indicated above and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; mattifying agents such as fibers; tensors; UV filters, and in particular organic UV filters; and their mixtures. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition. The following example makes it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight of raw material, unless otherwise indicated. The names of the compounds are indicated in INCI names. EXAMPLE The following compositions are made. Composition AB (Invention) (comparative) Fat phase A MINERAL OIL 8 5 (SONNEBORN BLANDOL) ISONONYL ISONONANOATE (WICKENOL 151 from ALZO) 5 5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER (Cetiol OE from Cognis) 5 5 BEESWAX 0.5 - (WHITE BEESWAX SP 453P of STRAHL & PITSCH) OZOKERITE - 0.5 (OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P of STRAHL & PITSCH) POLYGLYCERYL-4 3 3 Dl ISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARA TE / SEBACATE (ISOLAN GPS of EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) 10 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 0,1 0,1 ( EXPANCEL 551 DE 40 D42 by AKZO NOBEL) Aqueous phase WATER qs qs GLYCERIN 5 5 Preservative (s) 1 1 DENATURED ETHYL ALCOHOL (SILCOMPA A96 KI ND) 1 1 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 1,5 1,5 (EPSOM SALT PH.EUR USP of KALI UND SA LZ) Procedure: Cold mixing of the compounds of the aqueous phase B. Then the phase B is slowly poured into the fatty phase A with vigorous stirring.

The stability of the short-term compositions is evaluated by centrifugation. The compositions are placed in a glass tube and subjected to a relative centrifugal force of 900 g for 1 hour at 25 ° C. The product resulting from composition A remains homogeneous in the tube. The product resulting from composition B has a problem of coalescence of the aqueous phase (appearance of drops of water at different levels along the wall of the tube). The stability of the long-term compositions is evaluated after 2 months at ambient temperature and 45 ° C. For the composition A, its macroscopic appearance, in particular its viscosity, and its microscopic aspect hardly evolve in terms of quality. On the contrary, there is a fluidification of the composition B with a slight eddy on the surface (early release of the fatty phase). The thermal stability of the compositions is evaluated in the following manner: The composition is subjected to 10 thermal cycles between -20 ° C. and + 20 ° C. During each of these cycles, the composition is maintained at -20 ° C. for 6 hours, then it goes from -20 ° C. to + 20 ° C. for 6 hours, then it is kept at + 20 ° C. for 6 hours. then it goes from + 20 ° C to - 20 ° C for 6 hours. At the end of the 10 cycles, no change in the organoleptic properties (appearance, color, odor) of the composition A is observed. The composition B exhibits instability, with a slight phase shift, in particular the presence of water at the bottom of the pillbox (beginning of sedimentation of the aqueous phase).

These results show that the composition A according to the invention has a good stability in the short and long term and when it is subjected to temperature variations, even when these temperature variations are important, unlike the comparative composition B in which the beeswax has been replaced by a mineral wax.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) comprising a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous fatty phase, comprising at least one fatty acid and polyol ester, at least one wax of bee and expanded polymer particles. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid and polyol ester (s) are (C16-C20) fatty acid esters of glycerol, polyglycerol which may contain from 2 to 10 moles (units) of glycerol and and / or sorbitan, preferably C16-C20 fatty acid esters and polyglycerol. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the fatty acid ester (s) and polyol are esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and dicarboxylic acids obtained by esterification of a polyglycerol mixture with (i) polyhydroxystearic acid with from 2 to 5 units of polyglycerol; (ii) linear or branched aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having 4 to 14 carbon atoms and (iii) linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the fatty acid ester of polyol is 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate of formula wherein PHS is polyhydroxystearic acid and IS isostearic acid. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the fatty acid or polyol esters are present in an active ingredient content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5%, and even more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the beeswax is natural or synthetic, preferably natural. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the amount of beeswax is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one oil. 9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the expanded polymer particles have an average particle size of 1 to 300 microns (m), for example from 5 to 200 μm, and preferably from 10 to 100 μm. ! am, and even better from 20 to 50! am. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 wherein the expanded polymer particles have a density of less than 0.1, especially less than 0.09, and better, less than 0.06, and even more preferably less than 0.06. 0.05. 20 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the expanded polymer particles are hollow optionally filled with a gas, this gas may be in particular air, nitrogen, isobutane, isopentane. 12. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the foamed polymer particles are selected from polymers or copolymers of acrylonitrile, vinylidene chloride, vinyl chloride and / or acrylic or styrenic monomer, optionally expanded, and the microporous microspheres, preferably are microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate. 30 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the expanded polymer particles are present in concentrations of raw material ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight 14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13 is applied to the keratinous material. 15. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13 in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face , or for hair care.