FR3004944A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING HENNE AND / OR INDIGO, A FATTY BODY, A (BI) CARBONATE, AND AN ACID, AND A CAPILLARY COLORING METHOD IMPLEMENTING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is: i) a composition comprising a) at least 10% by weight of henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s), b) at least one oil, c) at least one (bi) ) carbonate, d) at least one acid; ii) a method of dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair using said composition; and iii) the use for coloring the keratin fibers of the combination a), b), c) and d) as defined above. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to color the keratinous fibers with results of powerful coloring, chromatic, resistant to washes, perspiration, sebum and light and more durable without alteration of said fibers. In addition, the use of the composition does not release dust of raw materials ("dust-free"). This composition is easy to use, safely and without risk of staining. In addition, the composition and the dyestuff remain storage stable. The treated keratin fibers have a very pleasant cosmetic, their integrity is respected.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING HENNE AND / OR INDIGO, A FATTY BODY, A (BI) CARBONATE, AND AN ACID, AND A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING THE SAME The invention relates to i) a composition comprising a) at least 10% by weight of henna powder and / or indigo-producing plant (s), b) at least one fatty substance, preferably at least one oil, c) at least one (bi) carbonate, d) at least one an acid, preferably having a pKa of less than or equal to 6; ii) a method of dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair using said composition; and iii) the use for coloring the keratin fibers of the combination a), b), c) and d) as defined above. Two major modes of staining human keratinous fibers, and in particular the hair, are known.

The first, called oxidation or permanent staining, consists in using one or more oxidation dye precursors, more particularly one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers. Usually, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access, by a process of oxidative condensation, colored species which remain trapped inside the fiber. Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds. such as indole compounds. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. The second mode of staining, called direct or semi-permanent staining, comprises the application of direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain rather on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little inside the fiber, compared to the small molecules of precursors of oxidation dyes. The main advantages of this type of staining is that it does not require an oxidizing agent which limits the degradation of the fibers and does not use dyes with a certain reactivity, thus limiting the risks of intolerance. The first hair dyes were semi-permanent. One of the best-known natural dyes is that derived from the henna plant. Henna continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color leather, silk and wool, etc. It is also used traditionally for important events, celebrations and various beliefs.

The red henna is made up of shrub leaves of the genus Lawsonia from the family Lythraceae which is based on the principle of staining with the active Lawsone: 2-hydroxy1,4-naphthoquinone. The lawsone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6; Cl 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in Henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis) ("Dyes, Natural", Kirk- Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Henna" Encyclopedia Brittanica). This dye provides a red-orange color with white hair, and a "warm" color that is to say, coppered red with brown hair. The coloring process from henna is complicated to implement. It is first made a kind of "dough", often called "poultice", from mash or powder of henna leaves that is then diluted at the time of use with hot water and said paste is then applied to the keratinous fibers. However, this process from said paste has drawbacks. During the preparation and application of the composition on the keratin fibers, it is not possible to always obtain a satisfactory impregnation because of the poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder. In addition, it is very difficult to hope to reproduce exactly the colors because the Lawsone content very often varies from one batch to another, and different shreds.

Another well-known natural dye is indigo (see Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "hair preparation", section 5.2.3, 2006 VViley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGA, VVeinheim, 10.1002 / 14356007.a12 571.pub2). . Indigo continues to be used to beautify women by coloring hair, nails, or to color leather, silk and wool fabrics, etc. Indigo [482-89-3] is a natural dye, especially from the indigo plant of the empirical formula: C16H10N2O2; it has the following structure: --H The Indigo is derived from the indican can be prepared from different plants called indigofera such as indigo tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa, Isatis tinctoria etc (see Kirk- Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, updated to 17/04/2009, D01: 10.1002 / 0471238961.0425051903150618.a01.pub2). Indigestible plants are usually cut and soaked in hot, heated, fermented and air-oxidized water to release the purple-blue indigo (see Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561). 2537-2561). Indigo is the result of fermentation and oxidation of indican (glycosylated precursor). Indigo as a molecule is insoluble in water. The problem is that staining from indigo leaf is difficult because the rise in color in the keratin fibers is very low. This dye gives a blue color to white hair, and a "cold" color of ash-gray to brown-haired type. The dyeing process from the indigo leaves is complicated to implement. It is first made a kind of "dough" (often called poultice) from crushed stone or indigo leaf powder (indigo indigo or indigo dyers) or pastel dyers (or wadi or Isatis tinctoria ) that it must be fermented, that is then diluted at the time of use with hot water and said paste is then applied to the keratinous fibers. However, this process from said paste has drawbacks. During the preparation and application of the composition on the keratin fibers, it is not possible to always obtain a satisfactory impregnation because of the poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder. In addition, it is very difficult to hope to reproduce exactly the colors because the indigo content varies very often from one batch to another, and different crushed. As much as the color obtained on brown hair has a natural effect, as much the white hair is colored in an orange color with henna or blue with indigo, unsightly and unnatural ("Hair preparations", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology , John VViley & Sons, Inc.). In addition, the colorations obtained are not homogeneous between the root and the tip or from one fiber to another (The Science of Hair Care, C. Bouillon, J. V Volkinson, Ed. 2d, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group Boca Raton, London, pp. 236-241 (2005)).

Added to this is the risk of tachage clothing and skin with henna or indigo during the preparation of the "dough" and also during the application thereof on keratinous fibers, the consistency being very irregular. Henna stains from current indigo plant (s) are applied as a poultice for a long time on the hair and then rinsed and dried, usually in the open air, without shampoo terminal to allow the color to oxidize in the air during the following hours or even days. Depending on the composition used, the oxidation time is more or less long but never instantaneous. In addition to the break time that is long with henna or indigo that can vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (one night) depending on the desired intensity, without being able to control the result, the result also varies depending on fibers to be stained and the raw material of indigo or henna used. It is known to use metal salts as a mordant to improve the coloring of henna and indigo (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2006 VViley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.KGA, VVeinheim 10.1002 / 14356007.a12 571.pub2 and US 2010 / 03,133,362). It is also known to use metal salts to improve the coloration of indigo (Vat Dyes - see Chem Rev. 2011, 111, 2537-2561, pp. 2537-2561). The use of these requires a great deal of know-how, multiplies the steps of the process, does not always respect the integrity of the fiber (cosmetic not respected) and can disrupt subsequent cosmetic treatments.

It is also known to use a heating iron combined with non-natural direct dyeing to color the hair (EP 1 631 241). Nevertheless, the colorations are not always satisfactory from the point of view of color, in particular in terms of selectivity from root to tip and remanence, and fiber cosmetics.

To remedy the problem of low dyeing efficiency of natural dyes, it is also known to "dope" the coloring by adding direct dyes generally used in direct dyeing such as nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine and azomethine direct dyes , Xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane (DE 199 05 707, EP 0 806 199, JP 2010- 0001278). This option has the disadvantage for users of natural products, or supporters of "natural / organic", that the color is partly made from synthetic dyes. There is therefore a real need to develop coloring processes from natural dyes which make it possible to obtain powerful colorations from henna and / or indigestible plant (s), while respecting the cosmetics of keratinous fibers. . In particular, there is a need to provide methods of staining keratinous fibers from natural dyes, easy to use, and fast which in particular allow to obtain less aggressive colorings for the hair and at the same time which resistant to external agents (light, bad weather, shampoo), which are stubborn and homogeneous while remaining powerful and chromatic. This purpose (s) is (are) achieved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition A comprising: a) at least 10% by weight of henna powder and / or plant (s) indigestible (s); b) at least one fatty substance, preferably at least one oil; c) at least one (bi) carbonate; and d) at least one acid, preferably having a pKa of less than or equal to 6.

The cosmetic composition A is preferably in compact and / or anhydrous form. Another object of the invention is the aqueous composition: composition B, resulting from the mixture between the composition A as defined above, preferably compact and / or anhydrous, with an aqueous composition and more preferably water.

The subject of the invention is also a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair using compositions A or B as defined above.

In addition, the subject of the invention is the use of compositions A and B as defined above for dyeing keratinous fibers, especially human fibers such as the hair. The compositions A and B according to the invention have the advantage of coloring keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, with results of powerful coloring, chromatic, resistant to washes, perspiration, sebum and light and more durable without alteration of said fibers. In addition, the colorations obtained from compositions A and B give homogeneous colors from the root to the tip of a fiber (low color selectivity). In addition, the application of compositions A and B does not release dust of raw materials ("dust-free"). The composition or poultice can be used easily, safely and without risk of staining. In addition, the composition and the active agent remain storage stable. The treated keratin fibers have a very pleasant cosmetic, their integrity is respected. In addition, the composition of the invention, even in compact form, is very miscible in water, even cold (especially between 10 ° C. and room temperature, 25 ° C.), and composition B is particularly creamy, and / or excellent adhesion on the hair. Moreover, the time and / or ease of disintegration of the composition when it is in compact form, and preferably anhydrous, is faster or easier, in equal amounts, than the compact compositions on the market. Furthermore, the time devoted to the coloration from natural product according to the method of the invention is faster and easier, without the need to keep a composition such as a poultice on head long (for several hours or even a night ) or to let the composition rest (the poultice for example) before application for a long time (several hours or several days). a) henna and / or indigestible plant (s) powder Composition A or B comprises a) henna powder and / or indigestible plants. It is understood that the henna powder and / or indigo plant is different from the extract. Indeed an extract is a maceration product in generally organic solvents, while the powder according to the invention is a pure natural product from henna plants or indigesters, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition used in the process for dyeing keratinous fibers comprises as ingredient a) at least 10% by weight of henna in powder form, preferably in fine particles, relative to the weight total of said composition. Preferably the henna used in the invention is red henna (Lawsonia inermis, alba). The henna powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the henna powder is fine. According to the invention, is more particularly meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 lm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size inclusively between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm.

It is understood that said henna particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders. Preferably, said henna particles come from henna leaves. The composition B according to the invention comprises henna powder in an amount of especially between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 70%, and even between 20% and 60% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition A comprises henna powder in an amount of especially between 15% and 100% by weight, more particularly between 20 and 80%, and even between 25% and 70% by weight, more particularly between 25% and 60% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B used in the process for staining keratinous fibers comprises as sole ingredient a) at least 10% by weight of the indigestible plant powder (s). preferably in fine particles, relative to the total weight of the composition. As indigo plant we can cite many species of the genera: - Indigo will make such as Indigo will make tinctoria, Indigo suffraticosa, Indigo will articulata Indigo will make arrecta, Indigo will make gerardiana, Indigo will make argenta, Indigo will make indica, Indigo will make longiracemosa; - Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria; - Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria); Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria; - Calanthus such as Calanthe veratrifolia; and - Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

Preferably the indigo plant is of the kind Indigo will do and more particularly is Indigo will make tinctoria. One can use all or part (especially the leaves especially for Indigo will make tinctoria) of the indigo plant. The indigestible plant powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particle size of the indigestible plant powder. is fine. According to the invention, is more particularly meant a particle size of less than or equal to 500 lm. Preferably, the powder consists of fine particles having a size of between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200. It is understood that said particles of indigestible plant (s) preferably have a moisture content of between 0 and 10 μm. % by weight, based on the total weight of the powders. The composition B according to the invention comprises indole-producing plant powder (s) in an amount particularly inclusive of between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 70%, and even between 20% and 60% by weight. more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition A comprises indigestible plant powder (s) in an amount particularly inclusive of between 15% and 100% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 80%, and even between 25% and 70% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B used in the invention comprises a mixture of henna powder as defined above and indigestible plant powder (s), preferably in fine particles. as defined previously. The ratio by weight of henna powder and indigestible plant powder (s) preferably ranges from 95% to 5% of henna powder for 5% to 95% of indigestible plant powder (s). , particularly from 75% to 25% of henna powder for 25% to 75% of indigestible plant powder (s), and more particularly from 55% to 45% of henna powder for 45% to 55% of indigestible plant powder (s). A mixture of 50% henna powder and 50% indigestible plant powder (s) is particularly appreciated. The composition B according to the invention comprises a mixture of henna powder + indigo-producing plant (s) in an amount particularly inclusive of between 10% and 90% by weight, more particularly between 15% and 70%, and even between 20% and 60% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Composition A comprises a mixture of henna powder + of indigestible plant (s) in an amount particularly inclusive of between 15% and 100% by weight, more particularly between 20% and 80%, and even between 25% and 70% by weight. more particularly between 25 and 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. b) The fatty substance (s): The composition A or B of the invention further comprises ingredient b) one or more fatty substances, which are identical or different.

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% and preferably of 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B of the invention comprises b) one or more oils, which are identical or different. By "oil" is meant a "fatty substance" as defined above which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg); the viscosity at 25 ° C is preferably less than 1200 cps better less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using a TA Instruments ARG2 rheometer equipped with a mobile geometry cone plane d a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a range of shear stress ranging from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa. The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. More particularly, the oils are chosen from non-silicone oils and in particular hydrocarbons and C6-C16 or more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, fatty acid amides and silicone oils.

Preferably, the oils are not oxyalkylenated or glycerolated ethers. Preferably, the oils do not comprise oxyalkylenated unit 02-03 or glycerolated unit. Preferably, the oils are not fatty acids which in salified form give water-soluble soaps.

The oils that can be used as the second ingredient b) in the composition A or B according to the invention can be silicones. The silicones may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or otherwise with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula D "DD" - D '-1 CH3 CH3 with D ": -Si - O - - Si -O-II CH3 C8H17 with D ': Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones falling into this class are also described in l article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to the ASTM 445 Appendix C standard. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. The fatty alcohols, fatty acid amides and fatty acid esters which can be used as the second ingredient b) in the compositions A or B of the invention are in the form of oils. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. More specifically, ingredient b) may represent a C 1 -C 10 alcohol and fatty acid ester of C 6 -C 30 such that RC (O) -O-R 'with R representing a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, linear or branched chain, linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, and R representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group. Preferentially, R represents a linear C10-C20 alkyl group and R 'represents a preferably branched C1-C6 alkyl group such as isopropyl myristate. According to another advantageous variant, ingredient ii) represents one or more 06-030 fatty acid amides and of 01-010 primary or secondary amine, preferably of primary amine, such as those of formula R "- C (O) -N (Ra) -R- with R "representing a linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, linear or branched C 6 -C 30 alkenyl, comprising one or two unsaturations, which may be substituted by one or several hydroxy groups, or (di) (01-06) (alkyl) amino, and R "represents a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl group, Ra represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group as defined for R ". Preferably R "represents an alkenyl group at 014-020, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and R" represents a C1-C6 alkyl group optionally substituted with (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino such that oleyl amidopropyl dimethyl amine.

As for the alkanes at 06-016, the latter are linear, branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms may be chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.

Among the animal oils there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene. Among triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. Among the fluorinated oils that may be mentioned perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® P03" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or the bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, or may include those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Flavors and Fragrances", Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: JAN 15, 2003, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a11_141). According to a preferred embodiment, ingredient b) present in compositions A or B is different from essential oils. Preferably, the oil or oils of the invention are non-silicone. The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. According to a preferred variant of the invention, the one or more oils are chosen from 06-016 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the oils are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly and alkanes from 06-016, polydecenes. In this variant preferably, the oil or oils are chosen from mineral oils such as petroleum jelly. According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly oils of vegetable origin preferentially chosen from jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive and nut oils. coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, argan, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor oil, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil; More particularly, the oils of vegetable origin are chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil; preferably, the oil or oils, ingredient b) of the invention are chosen from coconut oils.

The composition B used in the process of the invention preferably comprises one or more oils in an amount of especially between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50% by weight, preferably between 3 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition A may comprise one or more oils in an amount of from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 5% to 60% by weight and preferably from 10% to 40% by weight. and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B of the invention comprises b) one or more butters, identical or different. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

Preferably, the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 M Pa. Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .

As regards the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken from below Magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of the butter at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the ISO 11357 standard. -3: 1999. The melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state.

It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50 to 100 (%), more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. Regarding the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: The composition A according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height . In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel mobile for inferior raw materials; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally - a third step called withdrawal or the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and note the energy withdrawal of the probe (negative force).

The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or the composition according to the invention. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in mega-pascals or MPa. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters). It may be mentioned more particularly that ingredient b) is chosen from shea butter, shea butter Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii), butter Galam (Butyrospermum parkii), butter or fat Borneo or tengkawang tallow) ( Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), butter mango (A4 - indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea) ), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima) , olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) , cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight content of the butter or butters according to the invention, in the form of triglyceride fatty acids, expressed relative to the total fatty acids of the triglycerides, is less than 23%. Preferably, the butter or butters according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably from butter. Murumuru and Ucuuba butter. In a preferred variant of the invention, the weight content of fatty acids 016 of the triglycerides expressed relative to the total fatty acid triglycerides varies from 0 to 22%, better from 0 to 15%, more preferably from 2 to 12%.

The composition B used in the process of the invention may comprise one or more butters in an amount of especially from 1 to 80% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 3 to 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition A may comprise one or more butters in an amount of from 1% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 5% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 40% by weight. and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B of the invention comprises as ingredient b) a mixture of one or more oils, identical or different, as defined above, and one or more butters, identical or different, as defined above.

Particularly the composition B of the invention comprises one or more oils and one or more butters whose amount [oil (s) + butter (s)] is included between 1 and 80% by weight, more particularly between 2 and 50%. by weight, preferably between 3 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Composition A may comprise one or more oils and one or more butters, the amount of which [oil (s) + butter (s)] is particularly inclusive between 1 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition A or B comprises one or more fats b) different oils and butters as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more waxes, preferably of plant origin. The waxes can be solid fatty alcohols or solid fatty esters at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises, as third component, one or more solid fatty alcohols, preferably of plant origin.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear saturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol).

As regards the fatty esters of fatty acids and / or solid fatty alcohols, mention may be made preferably of linear and saturated fatty acid esters and of linear and saturated fatty alcohols such as cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises one or more waxes, different from the fatty alcohols and fatty esters mentioned above, preferably of plant origin. These waxes (non-silicone) are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ; other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition A or B comprises b) one or more waxes, resins or silicone gums. In the class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the waxes sold under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-020) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from a hydroxyl end-of-the-chain polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R25iO2 / 2, R35iO1 / 2, R5iO3 Wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin20 ETSU. Preferably, the fatty substance (s) do not comprise an oxyalkylenated unit (02-03) or a glycerolated unit. The composition A or B of the invention preferably comprises a fat content different from oil (s) and butter (s) as defined above, ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight. more preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. C) The (bi) carbonate (s) Composition A or B of the invention contains c) one or more carbonates or bicarbonates, which are identical or different. By (bi) carbonates is understood to mean: a) alkali metal carbonates (Met2 +, CO2), alkaline earth metal (Met2 +, CO2) ammonium ((R "4N +) 2, CO32-) or phosphonium ( (R "4P +) 2, C032- with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R", which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Cl-C6) alkyl group optionally substituted such as methyl, ethyl or hydroxyethyl), and b) bicarbonates, also called hydrogenocarbonates, of the following formulas: R '+, HCO3- with R' representing an alkali metal, an ammonium group R "4N + - or phosphonium R" 4P + - wherein R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or hydroxyethyl; and Met2 + (1-1CO3-) 2 with Met 'representing an alkaline earth metal. More particularly, the fourth ingredient is selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth bicarbonates; preferentially the alkali metal bicarbonates.

There may be mentioned carbonates or hydrogenocarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and mixtures thereof, and in particular Na hydrogen carbonate. These hydrogencarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water (see patent, for example FR 2 814 943). Particularly mention may be made of sodium carbonate [497-19-8] = Na2003, sodium hydrogencarbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and sodium dihydrogen carbonate = Na (HCO3) 2. According to the invention, the (bi) carbonate agent (s) used preferably represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the (bi) carbonate agent (s) and more preferably from 0, 01% to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 6%. d) the acid (s) The composition of the invention comprises one or more, identical or different, acids. Preferably the acid or acids, ingredients d) of the invention, have a pKa less than or equal to 6. The acids may have one or more labile protons so that said acids may comprise more than one pKa in which case pKa in the sense of The invention is understood to mean the weakest pKa or also called the first pKa. For example, the pKa values for ortophosphoric acid are as follows: Dissociation reaction Value of pK, H3P0 --- S2PO4- + H + pKai = 2.15 1-12PO4- 71-1P042- + H + pK, 2 = 7 , HP042-P043- + H + pK, 3 = 12.37 The pKa value in question to be considered less than or equal to 6 is pKa1 of 2.15. The pKa are pKa determined at 25 ° C.

The pKa are determined by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art or accessible in scientific journals such as the Handbook. More particularly, the pKa are pKa measured and possibly corrected by calculation as a function of the temperature if obtained at a temperature other than 25 ° C.

The acids of the invention may be organic or inorganic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, ingredient d) is chosen from mineral acids which are preferably chosen from hydrochloric and phosphoric and sulfuric acids. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, ingredient d) is chosen from organic acids. The acids of the invention are preferably mono or polycarboxylic acids and preferably mono, di or tricarboxylic acids. They may be saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or aliphatic, heterocyclic or non-heterocyclic and may optionally be in the form of lactones.

The acids of the invention can be chosen from the following acids: acetic, ascorbic, adipic, aspartic, benzoic, cinnamic, citric, erythorbic, fumaric, gentisic, gluconic, glutamic, glutaric, glyceric, glycolic, glyoxylic, lactic, maleic acids , malic, mandelic, oxalic, oxoglutaric, phenylacetic, picolinic, pyruvic, salicylic, sorbic, succinic, tartaric, and tartronic. Preferably, the organic acids according to the invention comprise less than 10 carbon atoms. In one variant of the invention, the acids of the invention are chosen from hydroxy acids, in particular hydroxy di or tricarboxylic acids, preferably tricarboxylic acids. In another variant of the invention, the acids of the invention are aliphatic and saturated. According to a particular embodiment, the acid (s) of pKa less than or equal to 6 is citric acid. According to the invention, the acid or acids of pKa less than or equal to 6 used preferably represent from 0.001% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing said acid (s) and more preferably from 0 to , 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight. Form of the Compositions According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition A is in compact form and of different shapes depending on the desired compaction, and in particular in the form of rollers, in the form of pucks, in the form of soap, in the form of pyramids shape, shaped like wafers, shaped platelets. The cosmetic composition A of the invention may also be in non-compact dosage forms, such as a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers. It can also be packaged in pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam.

The compositions The compositions A and B used in the process of the invention are cosmetic, i.e., they are cosmetically acceptable and therefore suitable for use on keratin fibers, especially human fibers such as the hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition i) used in the process of the invention contains one or more "mordants" ie of metal salts conventionally used in "etching" (see for example Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Textile Dyeing", Herbert Leube et al., D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a26_351, and in particular point 4.8.2, p.72, ibid, "Metal-complex dyes", Klaus Gryschtol et al., D01: 10.1002 / 14356007.a16_299) According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition i) used in the method of the invention does not contain "mordants". And preferentially, the dyeing method of the invention does not use mordants.

Aqueous Composition B The composition B of the invention as defined above comprises water. This water constitutes part or all of an aqueous phase C. By "aqueous phase" is meant a phase that essentially comprises water, and further comprises other miscible or water-soluble ingredients, at room temperature. ambient and at atmospheric pressure. Mention may be made, as liquid or solid, which may be in the aqueous phase: the organic solvents as defined hereinafter, polar or polar protic, the acid or base salts, mineral or organic, or the soluble cosmetic active ingredients in the aqueous phase; the water. The composition B of the invention preferably contains water in an amount of from 5 to 90%, more preferably from 20 to 80%, particularly from 40 to 75% by weight relative to total weight of said composition.

As mentioned above, another subject of the invention is the composition B resulting from the mixture between the composition A, preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C and preferably water (only water). It is therefore possible to use in this composition B henna and / or indigo a) as defined previously and optionally other natural dyes as defined below, associated with (x) oils (s) b) such (s) as defined above, c) the (x) (bi) carbonate (s), d) the acid (s) at pKa less than or equal to 6, as defined previously and optionally one or more different fatty substance (s) oils. Preferably the composition B is in the form of a poultice. To do this, composition A according to the invention, preferably in compact and / or anhydrous form comprising ingredients a), b) and c) as defined above, is mixed with an aqueous composition, and preferably mixed with water to obtain a poultice to obtain a creamy and pleasant consistency. When the composition is compact, it is crumbled in the aqueous composition C and preferably the compact composition is crumbled in water. The ratios of composition A according to the invention and an aqueous composition C and preferably water, preferably range from 1 part by weight of composition to 1 part by weight of aqueous composition C and preferably from water (1/1) to 1 part by weight. by weight of composition A for 3 parts by weight of aqueous composition and preferably water (1/3), more preferably 1 part by weight of composition A for 2 parts of aqueous composition C and preferably water (1/2) . According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B comprises only ingredients of natural origin. During the preparation of the poultice, one or more clays, which may be identical or different, may be added as defined below.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition B is at a neutral pH close to 7 (preferably ranging from 6 to 8, better still from 6.5 to 7.5). As mentioned above, the composition B i.e. implemented in the process of the invention in the first step B may be derived from mixing a composition A mixed with water or an aqueous composition preferably to form a poultice. Composition A: Composition A can be compacted or in non-compacted powder, it can be anhydrous or non-anhydrous. According to a particular embodiment, the composition A is in an anhydrous non-compacted powder. It can then be packaged in sachet form. According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, composition A is anhydrous and compacted.

Composition A may comprise water or a mixture of water and also one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents. The composition A used preferably comprises less than 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 2% by weight, or even is free of water.

Preferably composition A is anhydrous i.e. it does not include water other than water bound to the raw materials entering into non-aqueous components. Composition A may be in the form of a powder. It can also be in the form of a paste. Composition A according to the invention is preferably in compact form.

As is apparent from the foregoing, the compact composition according to the invention is "solid". "solid" means the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), ie a composition of high consistency which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - "Compact composition" means that the composition consists of a mixture of products whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction or pressing during manufacture. In particular, by performing a measurement with a texturometer TA.XT.plus Texture Analyzer sold by the company Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the invention can advantageously have a pressure resistance of between 0.2 and 2.5 kg , especially between 0.8 and 1.5 kg, brought to the surface of the mobile used (in this case 7.07 mm 2). The measurement of this resistance is achieved by moving a SMS P / 3 flat-bottomed cylindrical mobile in contact with the powder, over a distance of 1.5 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm / second.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition A is in compact form and of various shapes depending on the desired compaction, and in particular in the form of pebbles, in the form of pucks, in the form of soaps, in the form of pyramids, in the form of cartons, or in the form of platelets. More preferably when the composition comprises b) one or more oils and / or butters and / or fats, it is in compact form. The cosmetic composition A of the invention may also be in other non-compact dosage forms, such as a lotion, a mousse, a cream, a gel or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers. It can also be packaged in pump bottle without propellant or under pressure in an aerosol bottle in the presence of a propellant and form a foam. Preferably the composition B is in the form of a "poultice". As mentioned above, the composition B is derived from the mixture between the composition A, preferably compact and / or anhydrous, and an aqueous composition C and preferably water (only water) to lead to a mixture preferably under form of a poultice. It is therefore possible to use composition A comprising: a) henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s) as defined above; b) at least one oil and optionally at least one butter as defined previously; c) at least one (bi) carbonate; and d) at least one acid with pKa less than or equal to 6. For this purpose the composition A as defined above is preferably in compact and / or anhydrous form comprising the ingredients a) to d) as defined previously is mixed to an aqueous composition, and preferably mixed with water to obtain a poultice of a creamy and pleasant consistency. When the composition A is compact, it is crumbled in the aqueous composition C and preferably the compact composition is crumbled in water. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition B is at a neutral pH close to 7 (preferably ranging from 6 to 8, better still from 6.5 to 7.5).

The compositions A, B and / or C may comprise one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example lower alkanols in Cl-04, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. The organic solvents are present in proportions preferably of between 0.1 and 20% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the composition in question, and still more preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight approximately.

Adjuvants: The compositions A, B and / or C of the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof. , anionic, cationic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes , buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents other than the butters or oils of the invention such as, for example, ceramides, film-forming agents, preserving agents, opacifying agents and inorganic or organic thickeners such as clays. According to one particular embodiment, compositions A and / or B are not in emulsion form. Preferably in this embodiment compositions A and / or B do not contain surfactants. According to another advantageous variant, the composition B is in emulsion form, in which case A, B and / or C contain surfactants. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition considered. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition A or B used in the coloring process according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged. e) Additional dyes: The compositions A, B and / or C of the invention as defined above may further contain d) one or more additional direct dyes other than henna powder and / or plant (s) indigestible (s) a). These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and / or nonaromatic dyes of current use such as neutral, benzene neutral, acidic or cationic direct dyes, direct dyes neutral azo, acidic or cationic, natural direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinone dyes, direct dyes azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methines, styrils, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes. Preferably, the compositions A, B and / or C of the invention may comprise one or more natural dyes different from henna and from indeterminate plant (s) a) as defined above. Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are juglone, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. These natural dyes can be added as defined compounds, extracts, or parts of plants. Said defined compounds of extracts, or part of plants are preferably in the form of powders, especially fine whose particles have sizes identical to that of the henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s) a) as defined above.

The direct dye or dyes, natural or not different from the henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s) a), of the composition according to the invention represents, in particular, from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question. Preferably composition B of the invention does not contain synthetic direct dyes, i.e. which have no natural occurrence.

Compositions A and B comprising ingredients a) to d) as defined above, as well as composition C according to the invention may further comprise one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing. of keratin fibers.

Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bisphenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Preferably compositions A and B and / or C of the invention do not contain para-phenylenediamine (s).

Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. The oxidation base (s) present in the composition (s) are in general present each in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition (s). Preferably compositions A, B and / or C do not contain oxidation dyes. pH of the compositions B and C According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pH of the aqueous composition B as well as the pH of the aqueous composition C is neutral ie of pH around 7 (preferably from 6 to 8, better still 6 , 5 to 7.5). According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition B used in the process of the invention and / or the composition C is acidic and preferably of pH has a pH ranging from 3 to 6.5. The pH of the composition B and / or C can optionally be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying agents different from d) or alkalizing agents other than c) usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using systems conventional buffers present in the composition A or in the composition C mixed with the composition A to give the composition B. Among the acidifying agents different from the acids d) as defined previously compositions used in the invention include, at for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids of pKa greater than 6. The alkaline agents different from c) are preferably chosen from ammonia alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and derivatives thereof, sodium or potassium hydroxides and compounds of the following formula: In which W is a linear or branched (C1-C6) alkylene group, such as propylene optionally substituted with a hydroxy group or a C4-alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical. Process for the Preparation of Composition A Composition A can be obtained in the following manner: Ingredients a) to d) as defined are mixed by hand or with a conventional mixer and / or an extruder and / or are subjected to pressure classical mechanical stress. Staining method using the composition of the invention According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the staining process is carried out in several steps, the first step consists in the preparation of the composition B of the invention, particularly in the form of a creamy poultice, in particular as defined above from composition A of the invention; in the second step, the composition B is applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on the said fibers preferably for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably a time ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better still from 1 hour to 12 hours; hours; - In the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until disappearance of the composition B, preferably without shampooing; the keratinous fibers may then be dried or allowed to dry naturally without a hair dryer. According to another particular embodiment of the invention the dyeing process is carried out in several steps, the first step consists in the preparation of the composition B of the invention as described above; in the second step, composition B is left to stand for several hours, preferably 24 hours, and then composition B is applied and left on the said fibers, preferably for a minimum of 30 minutes (preferably from minutes to 24 hours, better from 1 hour to 12 hours); - In the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until disappearance of the composition B, preferably without shampooing; the keratinous fibers can then be dried or allowed to dry naturally without a hair dryer. The aqueous composition mixed with the composition A preferably of the water used in the first step may be at a room temperature, or at a higher temperature, in particular at a temperature ranging from 40 ° C to 98 ° C. According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition is mixed or crumbled with or in an aqueous composition and preferably water at a temperature below 40 ° C, in particular between 10 ° C and 40 ° C .

Preferably the ratio by weight of composition of the invention / amount by weight of aqueous composition and preferably water is 1/1 to 1/3, preferably 1/2. According to a particularly advantageous method the keratinous fibers are after the third step: a) is wiped mechanically with a towel, or absorbent paper, b) are dried by heat with a heat source (convection, conduction or radiation) by sending for example a hot gaseous stream such as air necessary for the evaporation of the solvent (s); as a thermal source include a hair dryer, a hair helmet, a hair straightener, an infrared ray dispenser or any other conventional heating device. Whatever the mode of application, the application temperature of composition B varies from ambient temperature (15 to 25 ° C.) to 80 ° C. and more particularly from 15 to 45 ° C. Thus, it is advantageous, after application of the composition B preferably in the form of poultice according to the invention, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature ranging from 30 to 60 ° C. In practice, this operation can be carried out by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser and other conventional heating devices. Both heating and smoothing of the hair can be used as a heating iron at a temperature ranging from 60 to 220 ° C and preferably from 120 to 200 ° C.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). If in the process of the henna powder is the only ingredient a) as defined above, it may be followed by another coloring process as defined above comprising as ingredient a) indigo; and vice versa. More particularly, the process of the invention is carried out according to one of the following three processes: Process 1: i) A composition B obtained from a composition containing henna is preferably applied to the head in the form of a poultice and / or indigestible plant (s) by mixing an amount of 1 part by weight and water at temperature inclusive between 40 and 98 ° C for an amount of 2-3 parts by weight, for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours; ii) before rinsing without shampooing; then iii) the hair is dried; optionally thereafter iv) a heating iron is used at a temperature ranging between 100 and 220 ° C and preferably between 130 and 200 ° C along the hair; Method 2: i) A composition B obtained from a composition A containing henna and / or indigestible plant (s) is preferably prepared in the form of a poultice by mixing a quantity of 1 by weight and water at temperature included between 40 and 98 ° C for an amount of 2-3 parts by weight, ii) and then the composition B is allowed to stand for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes at 48 hours, better between 6 hours and 24 hours, then iii) composition B is applied to the head leaving for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours, ii ) before rinsing without shampooing; then iv) the hair is dried; optionally thereafter v) a heating iron is used at a temperature included between 100 and 220 ° C and preferably between 130 and 200 ° C along the hair; Method 3: i) A composition B obtained from a composition A containing henna and / or indigestible plant (s) is preferably applied to the head in the form of a poultice by mixing a 1 part by weight and water at temperature included between 10 and 40 ° C for an amount of 2-3 parts by weight, for a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably between 30 minutes and 24 hours, better between 1 hour and 12 hours, ii) before rinsing without shampooing, then iii) drying the hair; optionally thereafter iv) a heating iron is used between 100 and 230 ° C and preferably between 130 and 180 ° C along the length of the hair.

To obtain the poultice B from the composition A in compact form, it is preferably crumbled said composition A (1 part) in a receptacle, for example a bowl, to which hot water C is added at a temperature of between 40.degree. and 98 ° C, then mixed until a creamy poultice is obtained.

A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a dyeing process which is carried out at room temperature (25 ° C). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, all the ingredients used in the process are of natural origin, and preferably of plant origin.

I) EXAMPLES OF COLORING The percentages are given by weight relative to 100 g of composition. Composition A: Ingredient Trade name Quantity Natural henna powder (Lawsonia Natural henna powder 70 g% inermis) Refined coconut oil Refined coconut oil GV 24/26 23 g% Sodium bicarbonate Sodium bicarbonate 4 g% Citric acid citric acid 3 g % Composition B Ingredient Trade name Quantity Natural henna powder (Lawsonia Natural henna powder 70 g% inermis) Refined coconut oil Refined coconut oil GV 24/26 23 g% Ammonium bicarbonate Sodium bicarbonate 6 g% Citric acid 4 Citric acid 1 part by weight of each of the 2 compositions is mixed with 2 parts by weight of hot water (approximately 60 ° C) in a bowl. The mixture is easily made, the compositions, even compact, disintegrate rapidly in water. The poultice obtained is very creamy, easily applied to keratinous fibers, and this by completely impregnating the keratinous fibers from the root to the tip. The poultice is applied to 90% natural white dry gray hair with a 60-minute break. We rinse the hair thoroughly.

The hair is dried. An intense, coppery, aesthetic coloration is obtained with good homogeneity from the root to the tip or from one fiber to the other. The hair is smooth and soft. 10 25

Claims (24)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition A comprising: a) at least 10% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of henna powder and / or indigestible plant (s); b) at least one fatty substance; c) at least one (bi) carbonate; and d) at least one acid, preferably having a pKa less than or equal to 6. 10 2. Composition A according to the preceding claim in compact form and / or anhydrous, preferably the composition is compact and / or anhydrous. 3. Composition A according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the ingredient a) powder consists of fine particles less than or equal to 500 lm; preferably, the powder consists of fine particles of size included between 50 and 300 μm and more particularly between 10 and 200 μm. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient a) is only red henna powder. 5. Composition A according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the ingredient a) is only indigestible plant powder (s). 25 6. Composition A according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the ingredient a) is a mixture of henna powder, preferably red henna, and indigestible plant powder (s). A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient a) is in an amount of from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 15 to 70%, or even 20 to 60%. % by weight, more particularly between 25 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. 8. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient b) represents one or more oils selected from non-silicone oils; and in particular hydrocarbons and C6-C16 or more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; oils of animal origin; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils ; glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides, and silicone oils. 9. Composition A according to the preceding claim wherein the one or more oils are chosen from oils of plant origin such as jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, and brazil nut oils. marula, corn, argan, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, almond, castor , avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed oil, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed and coconut oil, preferentially the oil or oils, ingredient b), are selected from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coconut oil, argan oil and sunflower oil; more preferably, the oil or oils, ingredient b), are chosen from coconut oil. 10. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient b) represents one or more butters, preferably selected from butters of natural origin, and particularly of plant origin such as those selected from shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia , Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), Mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter ( Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadam butter ia (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter; preferentially the butter or butters according to the invention are chosen from Murumuru butter, Ucuuba butter, Shorea butter, Ilipé butter, Shea butter, Cupuaçu butter and even more preferably from butter. Murumuru and Ucuuba butter. 11. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises ingredient b) as defined in the preceding claim, in an amount ranging between 1 and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 5 and 60% by weight, preferably between 10 and 40% by weight, and more preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient c) is selected from: i) alkali metal carbonates (Met2 +, CO32-), alkaline earth metal (Met2 +, CO32-) ammonium ( (R "4N +) 2, CO32-) or phosphonium ((R" 4P +) 2, CO32- withMet 'representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R ", which may be identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl, and ii) bicarbonates or hydrogenocarbonates, of the following formulas: R '+, HCO3- with R' representing an alkaline metal, an ammonium group R "4N + - or phosphonium R" 4P + - where R ", identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl; and Met '2+ (1-1CO3-) 2 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal; more particularly, ingredient c) is selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal and ammonium bicarbonates; preferentially the alkali metal bicarbonates. 13. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the ingredient or ingredients c) represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (s) containing the (bi) carbonate agent (s) and more preferably from , 01% to 10% by weight, better from 1 to 6%. 14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient d) is selected from organic or inorganic acids of particularly organic, preferably mono, di or tricarboxylic, optionally in the form of lactones and / or comprising less than 10. carbon atoms. 15. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein ingredient d) is selected from acetic, adipic, ascorbic, aspartic, benzoic, cinnamic, citric, erythorbic, fumaric, gentisic, gluconic, glutamic, glutaric, glyceric, glycolic, glyoxylic, lactic, maleic, malic, mandelic, oxalic, oxoglutaric, phenylacetic, picolinic, pyruvic, salicylic, sorbic, succinic, tartaric, and tartronic. 16. Composition A according to any preceding claim wherein ingredient d) is selected from hydroxy acids, especially di or tricarboxylic such as citric acid. 17. Composition A according to any one of the preceding claims wherein ingredient d) represents from 0.001% to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the composition, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight. 18. Aqueous composition B made from a mixture of a composition A according to any one of the preceding claims, and an aqueous composition C and preferably water, in proportions preferably from 1 part by weight of composition according to 1 any one of the preceding claims for 1 part by weight of an aqueous composition C and preferably water (1/1) to 1 part by weight of composition according to any one of the preceding claims for 3 parts by weight of an aqueous composition C and preferably water (1/3), more preferably 1 part by weight composition according to any one of the preceding claims for 2 parts by weight of an aqueous composition C and preferably water by weight (1/2); the composition B is preferably in the form of a poultice. 19. Composition B according to the preceding claim containing water in an amount ranging from 5 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, particularly from 40 to 75% by weight relative to the weight. total of said composition. 20. Composition A or B according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition comprises one or more surfactants. 21. Composition A or B according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition consists only of ingredients of natural origin. 22. Composition B according to claims 18 and 19 is at a pH of from 6 to 8, more preferably from 6.5 to 7.5. 23. A method of dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, implementing the following steps: in the first step, the preparation of a composition B according to any one of claims 18 to 22; in the second step, the composition B is: a) either immediately applied to the keratinous fibers, and is left on the fibers, preferably a minimum time of 30 minutes, preferably ranging from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better from 1 hour to 12 hours, b) is allowed to stand for several hours preferably 24 hours, then applied and left on the fibers preferably a minimum of 30 minutes, preferably from 30 minutes to 24 hours, better hour to 12 hours; during the third step, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water until the poultice disappears, preferably without shampooing; the keratinous fibers can then be dried with a heat source or allowed to dry naturally at room temperature. 24. Use of the composition A according to any one of claims 1 to 17, 20 and 21, or composition B according to any one of claims 18 to 22, for dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair.