FR3098715A1 - A cosmetic skin whitening composition comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for depigmentation, lightening and / or whitening of the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and / or human hair, and / or for removing pigment spots from human skin comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione. The present invention further comprises a cosmetic process for depigmentation, lightening and / or whitening of an area of the skin, mucous membranes, body hair or human hair, and / or removal of pigment spots from the skin. human, consisting in applying to said area of the skin, body hair or hair a composition according to the invention. Finally, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as a depigmenting, lightening and / or whitening agent for the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and / or human hair and / or as an agent for removing pigment spots on human skin.

Description

Skin whitening cosmetic composition comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin and/or prevention of the appearance of pigment spots on human skin comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione. The present invention also includes a cosmetic process for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening an area of human skin, mucous membranes, body hair or hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin. , consisting in applying a composition according to the invention to said area of the skin, the body hair or the hair. Finally, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as a depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening agent for the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair and/or as an agent making it possible to eliminate human skin pigment spots.

The pigmentation of the skin depends on the seasons of the year, the ethnic groups and the sex, but above all on multiple factors such as the hemoglobin of the vessels, the carotenoids of the dermis and mainly on the concentration of melanin produced by the melanocytes of the basal layer, under the action of tyrosinase, copper and oxygen.

The mechanism of formation of skin pigmentation is particularly complex and schematically involves the following main stages:

Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin

Tyrosinase is the essential enzyme involved in this series of reactions. It catalyzes in particular the reaction of transformation of tyrosine into Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and the reaction of transformation of Dopa into dopaquinone. This tyrosinase acts only when it is in a state of maturation under the action of certain biological factors.

Two chemical types of melanins are produced:
- eumelanins, which are indole-5-6-quinone polymers, brown or black in color;
- pheomelanins, which are compounds containing nearly 10% sulfur and polymer structure of cysteinyl dopa, yellow-red in color.

The color of an individual's skin is in particular a function of this eumelanin/pheomelanin ratio.

Under the effect of exogenous or endogenous stimuli, changes in skin tone may appear, called hyperchromia and hypochromia, depending on hyper or hypopigmentation.

Hyperchromias are accumulations of melanic pigments, carotenoids or exogenous pigments, which can be linked to hypermelanosis such as melasma or lentigo due to skin aging and/or sun exposure.

The motivations for discoloring the skin can be different, and take on more of a cosmetic aspect. Frank lightening of the complexion is particularly sought after in Black Africa, and pallor or whiteness of the face in Asia.

Thus, for a good number of years, various molecules have already been used and tested as lightening, depigmenting or whitening agents.

Agents for lightening, depigmenting or bleaching the skin, body hair and/or human hair are compounds capable of acting at the tissue, cellular or subcellular level. The substances most used as depigmentants in compositions are in particular compounds such as vitamin C, vitamin C derivatives, arbutin, hydroquinone, or kojic acid.

These various compounds are known to act on the synthesis and/or the activity of tyrosinase, or to reduce the quantity of melanin formed or else to stimulate the elimination of melanin through the keratinocytes. Unfortunately, they are either toxic, in the case of hydroquinone, or unstable in solution, in the case of vitamin C and kojic acid, which somewhat complicates the manufacture of the composition.

Thus, there remains the need for a new agent for lightening, depigmenting or bleaching the skin, body hair and/or human hair, having an action at least as effective as those known, but not having their drawbacks.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of three active ingredients, which may or may not be in combination with one or more plant root extracts, has a lightening, depigmenting and/or whitening action on the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair, an action of eliminating pigment spots on human skin and an action of preventing the appearance of pigment spots on human skin.

The use of the combination of these active ingredients with or without these plant root extracts as a lightening, depigmenting, whitening and/or anti-dark spot agent represents the unique general concept of this invention.

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or bleaching the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair, and/or eliminating pigment spots on the human skin, and/or preventing the appearance of pigment spots on human skin comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione.

By hexylresorcinol, or 4-Hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol, is meant according to the invention the molecule bearing CAS number No. 136-77-6, and having a molecular weight of 194.27 g.mol. This molecule has the molecular formula

and for chemical structure:

By undecylenoyl phenylalanine is understood according to the invention the molecule resulting from the grafting of phenylalanine on undecylenic acid and bearing CAS number No. 175357-18-3, and having a molecular weight of 331.4 g/mol. This molecule has the molecular formula:

and for chemical structure:

By trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione, or 3-(3,4,5-Trimethoxybenzylidene)-2,4-pentanedione is understood according to the invention the molecule bearing the number CAS n° 945558-97-4, and having a molecular weight of 278.115 g/ soft. This molecule has the molecular formula

and for chemical structure:

By cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or bleaching the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin, and/or preventing and an action for preventing the appearance of pigment spots on human skin according to the present invention is understood to mean a cosmetic composition acting on the vitality of epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and/or on the synthesis and/or activity of tyrosinase, and/or interfering with one of the stages of melanin biosynthesis or even inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis or acting as a structural analogue of one of the chemical compounds of the melanin synthesis chain, causing discoloration of skin pigmentations, spot coverage, lightening dull or dark skin tone, and/or lightening, bleaching, or bleaching of body hair or human hair. In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the intensity, density and size of the pigment spots on the skin to which it has been applied.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% hexylresorcinol, approximately 0.001% to 10% undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and approximately 0.001% to 10% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione by weight of the cosmetic composition .

Preferably according to the invention, said composition further comprises at least one, preferably at least two, more preferably at least three, extract of roots of plants chosen from: Astragalus Membranaceus, Atractylodes Macrocephala, Bupleurum Falcatum, Glycyrrhiza Glabra , Morus Alba, Scutellaria Baicalensis.

Astragalus Membranaceus, otherwise known as Huang Qi, Astragalus penduliflorus or Astragalus propinquus, is a herbaceous plant of the Fabaceae family. It is traditionally used in China in immune system dysfunctions, angina pectoris, hypertension, hepatitis, fatigue, asthma, organ descent, limb weakness, and anemia.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Astralagus Membranaceus.

Atractylodes Macrocephala, otherwise known as Bai Zhu, is a plant in the Astreraceae family. It is used as a tonic agent in East Asia, especially in China, in particular for the treatment of gastrointestinal dysfunctions, cancer, osteoporosis, or obesity.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Atractylodes Macrocephala.

Bupleurum Falcatum, otherwise known as Chai Hu or False Bupleurum, is a herbaceous plant of the Apiaceae family found in Europe, western and boreal Asia. It is in particular conventionally used for its relaxing, anti-neuralgic, anti-inflammatory, hypolipidemic, detoxifying, antimicrobial, or anti-ulcer properties.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Bupleurum Falcatum.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra, or licorice, is a plant of the Fabaceae family well known for its roots. These are in particular conventionally used in food and to facilitate digestion, to quench thirst, and for their anti-inflammatory effects on the digestive tract and stomach, or laxatives.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Glycyrrhiza Glabra.

Morus Alba, or white mulberry, is a plant of the Moraceae family, native to China. Its leaves are marketed for making herbal tea or tea to take advantage of its antioxidant and antidiabetic properties.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Morus Alba.

Scutellaria Baicalensis, otherwise known as Baikal skullcap, is a plant of the Lamiaceae family from Asia. This plant is traditionally used in particular for its anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral, anti-allergic properties, etc.

Preferably, said composition according to the invention comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of Scutellaria Baicalensis.

According to one embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprises extracts of roots of Astragalus Membranaceus, Atractylodes Macrocephala, and Bupleurum Falcatum.

Preferably, said composition comprises:
- approximately 0.001% to 10% hexylresorcinol,
-about 0.001% to 10% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine,
- about 0.001% to 10% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% Astragalus Membranaceus,
- about 0.001% to 10% of Atractylodes Macrocephala,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% Bupleurum Falcatum,
by weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to one embodiment, said composition comprises extracts of the six roots of said plants.

Preferably, said composition comprises:
- approximately 0.001% to 10% hexylresorcinol,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine,
- about 0.001% to 10% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% Astragalus Membranaceus,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% of Atractylodes Macrocephala,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% Bupleurum Falcatum,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% of Glycyrrhiza Glabra,
- about 0.001% to 10% of Morus Alba,
- approximately 0.001% to 10% of Scutellaria Baicalensis.
by weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to one embodiment of the invention, said composition further comprises at least one other cosmetically acceptable depigmenting, lightening, whitening and/or pigment spot removal agent, preferably chosen from azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide , hydrogen peroxide, mequinol, ethyl trioxopimelate, vitamin A analogues, such as beta carotene, tretinoin or retinaldehyde and their derivatives, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 4-isopropylcatechol, diacetyl-boldine, alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid or lactic acid, luteolin, vitamin C and its derivatives such as l 'ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate or salicylic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, ubiquinone, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, paracetamol, linoleic acid and vegetable oils containing it, ellagic acid, mercaptodextran, glabridin, hispaglabridin, gallotannine, isoliquiritin, melanyde, N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine, viniferin, resveratrol acid jasmonique and its derivatives, aloesin, alpha lipoic acid, dioic acids, glutathione and its derivatives, plant extracts with flavonoids, such as extracts of artichoke, yarrow, matricaria, of Satsuma mandarin, extracts from the Asteraceae family, bearberry extract, cowberry extract, strawberry tree extract, calluna extract, Scots pine extract, daisy extract, vine, burnet extract, chamomile extract, melon extract, Canada fleabane extract, hawkweed extract, ginger extract, turmeric extract, blue algae extract (phormidium persicinum) and/ or saxifrage extracts.

Azelaic acid is obtained by oxidative degradation of ricinoleic acid. It is a saturated fatty acid highlighted in the lipids of the surface of the skin, which would act by an inhibitory action on thioredoxin reductase whose substrate is an inhibitor of tyrosinase and by a competitive inhibition of tyrosinase.

Benzoyl peroxide is a compound of the aromatic organic peroxide family, which acts by discoloring melanins.

Hydrogen peroxide, otherwise known as hydrogen peroxide, destroys melanin by producing oxygen.

Mequinol or hydroquinone monomethyl ether is a derivative of hydroquinone which selectively damages the membrane of melanocyte lipoproteins and inhibits melanin synthesis by binding to tyrosinase.

Ethyl trioxopimelate is a precursor for the synthesis of chelidonic acid. It is made up of two tautomeric molecules: a molecule with a true ketone structure (oxidized form) and a molecule with a ketoenolic structure (reduced form).

Vitamin A acts by stimulating melanocyte activity. Vitamin A analogues, thanks to their structural homology, bind competitively to vitamin receptors, without having its effect.

Tretinoin is the acid form of vitamin A. It promotes the proliferation of keratinocytes and thus increases the renewal of keratinocytes. This effect disperses the melanin granules in the epidermis, resulting in clearer skin.

Beta carotene is a precursor of vitamin A, which acts by putting melanogenesis to sleep.

Retinaldehyde is also a derivative and analogue of vitamin A, and exhibits the same properties.

Ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid or EDTA is a diaminotetracarboxylic acid which slows down melanogenesis thanks to its chelating properties of divalent cations such as Cu2+ ions, essential for the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase.

Diacetyl-boldine is synthesized from boldine, which is the main alkaloid contained in the leaf of the boldo shrub. It acts on the activity of melanocytes by blocking tyrosinase in an inactive form, by acting on the concentration of the calcium ion (Ca++), leading to a deregulation of tyrosinase which remains in its inactive pre-tyrosinase form. Calcium plays a role in melanogenesis when stimulated by UV rays. It also indirectly disrupts the keratinocyte/melanocyte inter-relationships brought into play during UV stimulation.

Alpha-hydroxy acids are very common organic acids in plants such as glycolic acids from sugar cane, malic acid from apple, quince or mountain ash, citric acid from citrus fruits, tartaric acid from grapes, mandelic acid from 'Bitter Almond…). They are also present in products of animal origin (lactic acid in milk, for example). They have a keratolytic effect.

Luteolin or luteolol is a chemical compound from the flavonoid family, which can in particular come from artichoke, yarrow or chamomile, and which inhibits tyrosinase and blocks the transfer of melanin pigments from melanocytes to keratinocytes. .

Vitamin C or ascorbic acid has a depigmenting action linked to its reducing properties, which interrupt the chain oxidations of melanogenesis, by inhibiting the auto-oxidation of DOPA into dopamine and transforming the oxidized form of pigmented melanin into its reduced form with little pigmentation. Moreover, as an acid, this molecule promotes desquamation. Examples of more stable vitamin C derivatives are magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, salicylic acid.

Arbutin is a natural derivative of hydroquinone (β-glucoside of hydroquinone) present in the dried leaves of different plant species, including bearberry (genus Arctostaphylos). It acts by reversibly and competitively inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.

Kojic acid is produced naturally by several species of fungus of the genera Penicillium and Aspergillus, including Aspergillus oryzae. This compound inhibits the activity of tyrosinase in particular by chelating cupric ions at the active site of the enzyme.

Ubiquinone or coenzyme Q10 is a molecule present in most eukaryotic cells, mainly in the mitochondria, where it participates in the respiratory chain as part of aerobic cellular respiration. It has an anti-stain action on the skin.

Vitamin B3 or vitamin PP or Niacinamide or Nicotinamide is a precursor of NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADP+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate), and is necessary as a redox cofactor in the metabolism of carbohydrates, lipids and proteins. It acts as an anti-stain agent for the skin.

Paracetamol, known for its analgesic and antipyretic properties, inhibits the action of tyrosinase in the skin, hair and/or hair, and therefore the synthesis of melanin.

Linoleic acid is an omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid. This molecule, like the vegetable oils containing it, suppresses the production of melanin by active melanocytes and increases the desquamation of melanin pigments in the epidermis.

Ellagic acid is an antioxidant polyphenol present in many fruits and vegetables such as chestnuts, raspberries, strawberries, cranberries, walnuts, pecans, pomegranates, and in particular a plant of Mexican origin called Caesa spinosa. This compound inhibits the process of melanogenesis.

Mercaptodextran is a polythiol which can be synthesized by thiolating a dextran using for example N-acetylhomocysteine thiolactone. This compound inhibits tyrosinase.

Resorcinol is the meta isomer of benzenediol. It inhibits, as well as its derivatives such as 4-n-butylresorcinol, tyrosinase.

Gallotannine is a molecule that can be extracted in particular from maple, and which has an effect on tyrosinase activity.

Melanide is a molecule from Scots pine, which reduces the synthesis of melanione and inhibits the activity of tyrosinase.

N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine inhibits melanotropin, a melanin stimulator present in the skin, which controls tyrosinase activity, melanin synthesis (eumalanine) and the melanosome.

Viniferine is a molecule derived from vine shoots and having an inhibiting action on tyrosinase and possessing an anti-radical action.

Jasmonic acid, like its derivatives, is part of the jasmonates, belonging to the group of phytohormones, and has tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

Aloesin is a molecule extracted from aloes and has an inhibiting effect on tyrosinase.

Alpha-lipoic acid is a sulfur acid present in all cells of the body. It plays a key role in the production of the energy the body needs to function properly. As a depigmenting agent, it inhibits tyrosinase activity.

Dioic acids are a molecule having an effect on tyrosinase.

Glutathione and its derivatives act by direct and indirect inhibition of tyrosinase and the passage of the production of eumelanin to the production of phaeomelanin.

By plant extracts with flavonoids are meant according to the invention plant extracts containing these secondary metabolites, which share the same basic structure formed by two aromatic rings linked by three carbons. Flavonoids are responsible for the varied color of flowers and fruits. They are used as tyrosinase inhibitors.

The artichoke extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of Cynara scolymus L.

The yarrow extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of Achillea millefolium L.

The extracts of matricaria according to the invention are preferably extracts of Matricaria recutita L.

The Satsuma mandarin extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of citrus unshiu bark.

The extracts of the Asteraceae family according to the invention are preferably extracts of one of the 23,500 species divided into 1,600 genera that this family contains, and which include flavonoids.

The bearberry extracts according to the invention are preferably leaf extracts of the plant arctostaphylos uva-ursi L., a subshrub with a creeping stem from mountainous regions.

The cowberry extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the leaf of the plant Vaccinium vitis-idaea L., a sub-shrub with an erect stem which grows in the mountains.

The strawberry tree extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the leaves of Arbutus unedo L.

The calluna vulgaris or false heather extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the flowers of Calluna vulgaris L., conventionally containing arbutin.

The Scots pine extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Pinus sylvestris plant.

The Broussonetia extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Broussonetia papyfera plant, used for its tyrosinase inhibiting effect, thanks to the compound contained in its roots, 5- (3 '- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) propyl )-3,4-bis(3-methyl-2-butenyl)-1,2-benzenediol.

The daisy extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Bellis perennis plant, of the Asteraceae family.

The vine extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of vine shoots, having an inhibiting action on tyrosinase and possessing an antiradical action.

The great burnet extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Sanguisorba officinalis plant, of the Rosaceae family.

The chamomile extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Chamaemelum nobile plant, of the Asteraceae family.

The melon extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of the Cucumis melo plant, from the Cucurbitaceae family.

The Canada fleabane extracts according to the invention are preferably extracts of Erigeron canadensis.

The extracts of piloselle, or Pilosella officinarum, according to the invention are preferably extracts of this perennial plant of the Asteraceae family.

Saxifrage, pass-pierre or perce-pierre, according to the invention is the perennial plant of the Saxifragaceae family belonging to the genus Saxifraga.

Preferably according to the invention, said composition further comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, preferably chosen from keratolytic agents, desquamating agents, soothing agents, sunscreens, anti-wrinkle active agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging, and/or surfactants.

Keratolytic and/or desquamating agents help eliminate dead cells from the stratum corneum of the epidermis. They act by simple contact with the skin, by interacting with keratin. Examples of these agents are salicylic acid and its derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, and urea.

Soothing agents or anti-inflammatory agents help reduce skin and/or scalp discomfort. These include allantoin, azulene, bisabolol.

By sunscreen or UV filter is meant an agent which makes it possible to protect the skin from UVA and/or UVB. As such, it constitutes a means of passive external photoprotection, functioning as an ultraviolet filter. There are two types of UV filters, present together or separately in marketed products, namely mineral filters such as talc, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or kaolin, which come in the form of microscopic powders which act as reflecting UV rays, and chemical filters, which are organic chemical compounds forming a mixture of several chromophores that absorb ultraviolet light (such as oxybenzone, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl-methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate). Each of the chromophores has a specific UV absorption band (hence narrowband or broadband filters).

Even more preferably, said sunscreen is chosen from homosalate, oxybenzone, ensulizole, ecamsul, avobenzone, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, octocrylene, polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, octinoxate, peg 25-paba, isomamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl triazone, drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, octisalate, padimate o, benzophenone-4, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetra-methylbutylphenol, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, titanium dioxide, talc, zinc oxide, kaolin, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl-methoxycinnamate , octyl salicylate and/or diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate

By surfactant is meant an agent making it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases.

Preferably according to the invention, said composition is formulated in the form of a cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a serum, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous hydroalcoholic or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous or oily gel, of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, and/or of a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase at using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or lipid vesicles of the ionic and/or non-ionic type.

The composition of the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters , pigments, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and/or into the nanoparticles.

Preferably according to the invention, said area of the skin is the face, the hands and/or the neckline.

According to a second aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening an area of the skin, mucous membranes, body hair or human hair, and/or eliminating pigment spots. human skin, and/or preventing pigment spots on human skin, consisting in applying to said area of the skin, said body hair or said hair a composition according to the invention.

Preferably, an amount of 0.1 to 50 mg/cm2, preferably 0.25 to 2.5 mg/cm2, of cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the area of the skin, preferably 1 mg/cm2 .

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied once or twice a day, preferably twice a day, for at least 7 days, preferably at least 15 days, more preferably at least one month, from particularly preferably at least 2 months, and more particularly preferably at least 3 months. Very particularly preferably, the cosmetic composition is applied in the process according to the invention twice a day for at least 3 months.

According to a third aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention as a depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening agent for the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair and/or as an agent allowing for removing pigment spots from human skin, and/or as an agent for preventing pigment spots from human skin.

is a graph describing the seven-day evolution of pigmentation in a model composed of reconstructed human epidermis in culture to which composition A of the invention or a placebo have been applied.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Evaluation of the effect of composition A according to the invention on pigmentation in a model composed of pigmented human epidermis reconstituted in culture.

Material and method

Test system

0.5 cm2 of reconstructed epidermis composed of normal human keratinocytes and melanocytes. The cells are cultured on inert polycarbonate filters in a chemically defined medium for 10 days before the start of the experiment.

Incubation protocol

The reconstructed epidermis was incubated for 7 days in the absence (control) or in the presence of test products applied topically:

Composition A according to the invention:
- 1% hexylresorcinol,
- 1% undecylenoyl phenylalanine,
- 1% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione,
- 0.5% Astragalus Membranaceus,
- 0.5% Atractylodes Macrocephala,
- 0.5% Bupleurum Falcatum,
- 0.001% Glycyrrhiza Glabra,
- 0.001% Morus Alba,
- 0.001% Cutellaria Baicalensis,
- QSP glycerine

10μL per topical application

Each day, the tested products are reapplied to the surface of the epidermis for a total of 6 applications (one per day).

Effects assessment

Measurement of the reconstructed pigmentation of the epidermis

After 7 days of incubation, the color of the reconstructed epidermis was measured using a chromameter (CM-700d for Konica Minolta).

Statistics

The results are expressed in arbitrary units on the L a b scale. , using the L-axis (lightness value) and relative change from control (mean ± S.D.).

The level of significance between "control" and "tested product" was evaluated using a Student t test (*: p<0.05).

Results presented in Figure 1:

control Composition L-value – Clarity (in relative unit) 35.39 39.28 34.98 39.04 33.89 38.57 Mean 34.75 38.96** S.D. 0.78 0.36 % variation / control 0 12.11

**: Mean significantly different from the "control" group (p<0.01)

Under the experimental conditions, the composition according to the invention, tested by topical application, significantly increased the clarity of the reconstructed epidermis by 12.11% (p<0.01) compared to the control.

Findings:

This study has demonstrated that under these experimental conditions, the composition described above significantly increased the clarity of the pigmented human epidermis reconstructed in culture by 12.11% (p<0.01) and therefore reduced the pigmentation .

Example 2: In vivo evaluation of the effect of the application of composition B according to the invention.

Composition B according to the invention:
- 1% hexylresorcinol,
- 1% undecylenoyl phenylalanine,
- 1% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione,
- 0.5% Astragalus Membranaceus,
- 0.5% Atractylodes Macrocephala,
- 0.5% Bupleurum Falcatum,
- QSP glycerine

Or

Placebo: 100% glycerin

23 female volunteers (2/3 of Asian type), average age 56.9 years [40 to 75 years], with a heterogeneous complexion, apply twice a day for 2 months a composition B above in half-face and on a forearm versus placebo. Single-blind study:
- Evaluation by expert judges
- Lightening of hyperpigmented areas

After 2 months of application, 4 expert judges complete a questionnaire on 5 criteria. For each criterion, a score between 0 and 7 is assigned.

After 2 months of application of this composition, an improvement on all the criteria presented is observed compared to T0 and the placebo. Expert judges note visible results on the lightening of the complexion.

Complexion uniformity:

After 2 months, the use of the composition according to the invention improves the uniformity of the skin. Imperfections are reduced and less visible.

Lightening of hyperpigmented areas:

The composition according to the invention improves the luminosity of the face after only 1 month of application.

Intensities of pigment spots:

After 2 months of application of the composition according to the invention, the pigmentation is more homogeneous and the existing spots are significantly reduced.

Example 3: In vivo evaluation of the effect of the application of composition C according to the invention.

composition C according to the invention:
- 2% hexylresorcinol,
- 2% undecylenoyl phenylalanine and
- 2% trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione,
- QPS: glycerin

Or

Placebo: 100% glycerin

23 female volunteers (2/3 of Asian type), average age 57.5 years [40 to 75 years], with a heterogeneous complexion, apply twice a day for 2 months a composition C above in half-face and on a forearm versus placebo. Single-blind study:
- Evaluation by expert judges
- Lightening of hyperpigmented areas

After 2 months of application, 4 expert judges complete a questionnaire on 5 criteria. For each criterion, a score between 0 and 7 is assigned.

After 2 months of application of this composition, an improvement on all the criteria presented is observed compared to T0 and the placebo. Expert judges note visible results on the lightening of the complexion.

Complexion uniformity:

After 2 months, the use of the composition according to the invention improves the uniformity of the skin. Imperfections are reduced and less visible.

Lightening of hyperpigmented areas:

The composition according to the invention improves the luminosity of the face after only 1 month of application.

Intensities of pigment spots:

After 2 months of application of the composition according to the invention, the pigmentation is more homogeneous and the existing spots are significantly reduced.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition for depigmenting, lightening and/or bleaching the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin and/or preventing appearance of pigment spots on human skin comprising hexylresorcinol, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione. Composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises approximately 0.001% to 10% of hexylresorcinol, approximately 0.001% to 10% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and approximately 0.001% to 10% of trimethoxybenzylidene pentanedione by weight of the cosmetic composition . Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one, preferably at least two, more preferably at least three, extract of roots of plants chosen from: Astragalus Membranaceus, Atractylodes Macrocephala, Bupleurum Falcatum , Glycyrrhiza Glabra, Morus Alba, Scutellaria Baicalensis. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said composition comprises extracts of roots of Astragalus Membranaceus, Atractylodes Macrocephala, and Bupleurum Falcatum. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the said composition comprises extracts of the six roots of the said plants. Composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition additionally comprises at least one other cosmetically acceptable depigmenting, lightening, whitening and/or agent for eliminating pigment spots, preferably chosen from azelaic acid, benzoyl peroxide , hydrogen peroxide, mequinol, ethyl trioxopimelate, vitamin A analogues, such as beta carotene, tretinoin or retinaldehyde and their derivatives, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, 4-isopropylcatechol, diacetyl-boldine, alpha-hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid or lactic acid, luteolin, vitamin C and its derivatives such as l 'ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate or salicylic acid, arbutin, kojic acid, ubiquinone, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, paracetamol, linoleic acid and vegetable oils containing it, ellagic acid, mercaptodextran, glabridin, hispaglabridin, gallotannine, isoliquiritin, melanyde, N-undecylenoyl-phenylalanine, viniferin, resveratrol acid jasmonique and its derivatives, aloesin, alpha lipoic acid, dioic acids, glutathione and its derivatives, plant extracts with flavonoids, such as extracts of artichoke, yarrow, matricaria, of Satsuma mandarin, extracts from the Asteraceae family, bearberry extract, cowberry extract, strawberry tree extract, calluna extract, Scots pine extract, daisy extract, vine, burnet extract, chamomile extract, melon extract, Canada fleabane extract, hawkweed extract, ginger extract, turmeric extract, blue algae extract (phormidium persicinum) and/ or saxifrage extracts. Composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition additionally comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable agent, preferably chosen from keratolytic agents, desquamating agents, soothing agents, sun filters, anti-wrinkle active agents, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, and/or surfactants. Composition according to the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated in the form of a cream, an ointment, an ointment, a mask, a serum, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse, an aerosol, a stick, a shampoo, a conditioner, patches, an aqueous hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, of an aqueous or oily gel, of an anhydrous liquid, pasty or solid product, and/or of an oil dispersion in a phase aqueous using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or lipid vesicles of the ionic and/or non-ionic type. Cosmetic process for depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening an area of human skin, mucous membranes, body hair or hair, and/or removing pigment spots from human skin, and/or preventing pigment spots on the human skin, consisting in applying to the said area of the skin, the body hair or the hair a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8. Cosmetic use of the composition according to claims 1 to 8 as a depigmenting, lightening and/or whitening agent for the skin, mucous membranes, body hair and/or human hair and/or as an agent for removing pigment spots from the skin human skin and/or as an agent for preventing pigment spots on human skin.