FR3073854A1 - SELF-REVERSIBLE REVERSE LATEX, INCLUDING AS ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSID INVERTER, ITS USE AS A THICKENING AGENT, AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

Self-invertible inverse latex, comprising as surfactant surfactant species of the family of alkylpolyglycosides, the alkyl chain of which comprises from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, low levels of residual fatty alcohols, its use as a thickening and / or emulsifying agent and and / or stabilizer of a topical cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, and topical cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical compositions comprising it.

Description

The invention relates to self-reversible reverse latexes comprising, as a reversing agent, a surfactant composition comprising alkyl polyglycosides, the use of said self-reversible reverse latexes as thickeners used for preparing cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical formulations, as well as these. formulations.

Cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical compositions, comprising polar phases, for example aqueous alcoholic or hydroalcoholic phases, frequently require the use of rheology-modifying polymers to increase their viscosity of said polar phases, and more generally to give them a specific rheological behavior.

Among the rheology modifying agents which can be used for the preparation of these compositions, mention may be made of synthetic polymers such as, for example, anionic, or cationic polyelectrolytes, linear or branched, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, are present two physical forms, the powder form and the liquid form.

Said cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical and pharmaceutical compositions are generally in the form of aqueous gels, hydroalcoholic gels, hydro-glycolic gels, emulsions or microemulsions or nanoemulsions of water-in-oil type or of oil-in-water or of water-in-oil-in-water or of oil-in-water-in-oil type, or in any other galenical form commonly used in the cosmetics, dermocosmetics, pharmacy and dermopharmacy.

In the processes for preparing self-reversible reverse latexes by carrying out radical polymerization in reverse emulsion, the surfactants of the oil-in-water type are added at the end of the polymerization step. Their addition is intended to modify and regulate the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the water-in-oil emulsion comprising the polymer (also called “reverse latex”) so as to obtain a mixture which, once added in a polar phase like for example water, will change direction of emulsion to pass from the water-in-oil form to the oil-in-water form, allowing then to bring the previously prepared polymer into contact with the polar phase to be thickened. During such a physical phenomenon, the crosslinked and / or branched polyelectrolyte type polymer deploys in said polar phase and forms a three-dimensional network allowing the polar phase to swell, which is manifested by an increase in the viscosity of this phase. polar.

The mixture comprising the “reverse latex” and the oil-in-water type surfactant is called self-reversible reverse latex and said oil-in-water surfactant is called “reverser” or “reversing agent”.

The reversing agents commonly used for the preparation of self-reversible reverse latexes are oil-in-water type surfactants which have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value high enough to allow the preparation of oil-in-type emulsions. stable water, generally greater than 9 and less than 16. They generally comprise a hydrophilic part consisting of a chain of ethylene oxide units and a part consisting of an aliphatic hydrocarbon chain of hydrophobic nature. Among these reversing agents, there may be mentioned:

- Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, of which the aliphatic hydrocarbon chain contains from 8 to 14 carbon atoms and of which the number of ethylene oxide units is between 5 and 40, for example lauric ethoxylated alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth7), or tridecyl alcohol containing 6 moles of ethylene oxide (INCI name: trideceth-6);

- The ethoxylated sorbitan esters, the hydrocarbon aliphatic chain of which has 12 to 22 carbon atoms and the number of ethylene oxide units of which is between 5 and 40, for example the ethoxylated sorbitan oleate at 20 moles ethylene oxide sold under the trade name Montanox ™ 80, or sorbitan laurate ethoxylated to 20 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the trade name Montanox ™ 20;

Ethoxylated alkylphenols, for example ethoxylated nonylphenols and ethoxylated octylphenols; or

Castor oil ethoxylates, for example castor oil ethoxylated with 40 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ OL 50.

The evolution of consumer requirements and regulatory provisions lead cosmetic formulators to reduce the proportion of ingredients containing ethylene oxide units in their formulations. There is therefore a need to prepare reverse self-reversible latexes free of ethoxylated surfactants as reversing agents.

French patent applications published under the numbers 2 794 034, 2 794 124, 2 808 447, 2 808 446 and 2 810 883 describe the use of alkyl polyglycosides, the alkyl hydrocarbon chain of which has from one to thirty atoms of carbon, for example mixtures of alkylpolyglucosides in which the hydrocarbon alkyl chains are decyl, dodecyl and tetradecyl chains such as the mixture marketed under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ SL 10, dodecyl, tetradecyl and hexadecyl chains such as the mixture marketed under the name brand SIMULSOL ™ SL 26, octyl and decyl chains as the mixture sold under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ SL 8, or the undecylenyl chain as the mixture sold under the brand name SIMULSOL ™ SL 11 W.

However, the use of such compounds to prepare self-reversible reverse latexes must be carried out at a temperature above their melting point, ie generally at a temperature above 70 ° C., which poses problems of destabilization of the reverse latex. and causes a certain destabilization of the self-reversible reverse latex prepared. In some cases it is carried out by diluting said alkylpolyglycosides in water beforehand in order to have a liquid form which can be handled at room temperature. This sometimes has the consequence of reducing the rate of inversion of said self-reversible reverse latexes in the polar phases to be thickened, and therefore of decreasing the productivity of the processes for preparing cosmetic formulations comprising such thickening agents.

There therefore remains a need to develop a surfactant system of the oil-in-water type, the constituent surfactants of which show good suitability for the environmental standards in force by being in particular free of alkylene oxide units (such as for example ethylene oxide), and which make it possible to prepare reverse self-reversible latexes which can be used easily and in particular which can be pumped at 25 ° C., which have a viscosity less than or equal to 8,000 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 mPa.s, viscosity measured at 25 ° C using a Brookfield RVT viscometer and mobile No. 3 at a speed of 20 revolutions / minute, which have a smooth appearance, free of grains or lumps , and which have good inversion properties in polar phases, that is to say inducing a rapid inversion rate, less than 15 minutes, preferably less than 10 minutes, allowing the polymer included in the self-reversible reverse latex to express all of its thickening capacity.

According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion (E) comprising for 100% of its mass:

a) - from 10% by mass to 80% by mass, of a crosslinked polymer (P), resulting from polymerization for 100% molar:

(ai) - of a proportion greater than or equal to 30 mol% and less than or equal to 100 mol%, of monomeric units derived from a monomer having a strong acid function, partially salified or fully salified; and (a2) - Optionally of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 70 mol%, of monomeric units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid, the methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl 3 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] butanoic acid, the carboxylic function of said monomers being in acid form, partially salified or fully salified and / or from the elements of the group consisting of (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate), (2,3-dihydroxy propyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-methacrylate) -dihydroxy propyl) or vinyl pyrrolidone;

(a ₃ ) - of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 1 mol% of monomeric units derived from at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR);

it being understood that the sum of the molar proportions of the monomeric units (ai), (a ₂ ) and (83) is equal to 100%;

b) - from 5% by mass to 50% by mass, more particularly from 5% by mass to 45% by mass, and even more particularly from 5% by mass to 40% by mass, of a fatty phase consisting of at least one oil (H ), and

c) - from 1% by mass to 50% by mass, more particularly from 5% by mass to 45% by mass, and even more particularly from 5% by mass to 40% by mass of water, and

d) - from 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass, more particularly from 0.5% by mass to 8% by mass, and even more particularly from 0.5% by mass to 7% by mass of an emulsifying system (Si) of water-in-oil type, and

e) - from 2% by mass to 10% by mass, more particularly from 2% by mass to 8% by mass and even more particularly from 4% by mass to 7% by mass of an emulsifying system (S ₂ ) of oil-in-water type comprising for 100% of its mass, at least 50% by mass of a composition (C _e ) comprising for 100% of its mass:

ei) - A proportion greater than or equal to 20% by mass and less than or equal to 80% by mass of a diluting agent of formula (I):

HO- [CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O-] _n -H (I), in which n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 6, or a mixture of said agents diluents, e ₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 20% by mass and less than or equal to 80% by mass of a composition (Ce2) comprising for 100% of its mass:

e _2a ) - A proportion greater than 0% and less than or equal to 4% by mass of at least one alcohol of formula (II):

C _m H _2m + i-OH (II), in which m represents an even whole number greater than or equal to 8 and less than or equal to 18;

e ₂ p) - A proportion greater than or equal to 96% by mass and less than 100% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p) comprising:

e ₂ p ₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 60% by mass and less than or equal to 90% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p ₂ ) comprising for 100% of its mass:

θ ₂ β ₂ ι) - A proportion greater than or equal to 5% by mass and less than or equal to 20% by mass of a composition (C ₂ i) represented by formula (III):

R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) _r -H (III), in which R ₂ i represents the n-dodecyl radical, G ₂ i represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1 , 05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₂ i) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (lll ·), (lll ₂ ), (11l ₃ ), (IIL) and (III5):

R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) iH (HI1), R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₂ -H (III2) R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₃ -H (LLLS) R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₄ -H (Llk) R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₅ -H (LLLS)

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (lll ·), (lll ₂ ), (lll ₃ ), (III4) and (llls) respectively equal to ai, a ₂ , a ₃ , a4 and as, such as the sum ai + a ₂ + a ₃ + a4 + as is equal to one, and that the sum ai + 2a ₂ + 3a ₃ + 4a4 + 5as is equal to r;

θ ₂ β ₂₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 10% by mass and less than or equal to 20% by mass of a composition (C ₂₂ ) represented by the formula (IV):

R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) _s -H (IV), in which R ₂₂ represents the n-tetradecyl radical, G ₂₂ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and s represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₂₂ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (IV1), (IV ₂ ), (IV ₃ ), (IV ₄ ) and (IVs):

R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) iH (IV1) R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) ₂ -H (IV2), R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) ₃ -H (IV3), R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) ₄ -H (IV4), R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) sH (IVs)

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (IV1), (IV ₂ ), (IV ₃ ), (IV4) and (IV5) respectively equal to bi, b ₂ , b ₃ , b4 and bs, such as the sum: bi + b ₂ + b ₃ + b4 + bs is equal to one, and that the sum bi + 2b ₂ + 3b ₃ + 4b4 + 5bs is equal to s;

θ ₂ β ₂₃ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 25% by mass and less than or equal to 40% by mass of a composition (C ₂₃ ) represented by the formula (V):

R ₂ 3-O- (G ₂ 3) tH (V), in which R23 represents the n-octyl radical, G23 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and t represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less or equal to 5.00, said composition (C23) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V4) and (Vs):

R ₂ 3-O- (G ₂ 3) lH (Vi) R23O- (G23) ₂ H (V ₂ ), R23O- (G23) 3H (Vs), R ₂ 3-O- (G ₂ 3) 4-H (V ₄ ), R ₂ 3-O- (G ₂ 3) 5-H (Vs),

in molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V4) and (V5) respectively equal to Ci, C2, c ₃ , C4 and C5, such as the sum: C1 + c ₂ + c ₃ + C4 + C5 is equal to one, and that the sum Ci + 2θ2 + 3c ₃ + 4θ4 + 5cs is equal to t;

e ₂ p24) - A mass proportion greater than or equal to 30% by mass and less than or equal to 55% by mass of a composition (C24) represented by the formula (VI):

R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂ 4) uH (VI), in which R24 represents the n-decyl radical, G24 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and u represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less or equal to 5.00, said composition (C24) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vh), (Vl ₂ ), (Vl ₃ ), (Vl ₄ ) and (Vh):

R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂ 4) iH (Vh),

R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂ 4) ₂ -H (Vl ₂ ),

R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂₄ ) ₃ -H (Vl ₃ ),

R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂₄ ) 4-H (Vl ₄ ),

R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂₄ ) 5-H (Vh), in in molar proportions in said compounds of formulas (Vh), (Vl ₂ ), (Vl ₃ ), (VI4) and (VI5) respectively equal to di, d2, d ₃ , d4 and ds, such that the sum: di + d2 + d ₃ + d4 + ds is equal to 1, and that the sum di + 202 + 3d ₃ + 404 + 5ds is equal to u;

it being understood that the sum of the mass proportions of the compositions (C21), (C2 ₂ ), (C23), and (C24), is equal to 100%;

e ₂ p ₃ ) - a proportion greater than or equal to 10% by mass and less than or equal to 40% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p ₃ ) comprising for 100% of its mass:

e ₂ p ₃ i) - A proportion greater than or equal to 30% by mass and less than or equal to 50% by mass of a composition (C ₃ i) represented by the formula (VII):

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) xH (VII) in which R ₃ i represents the n-hexadecyl radical,

G ₃ i represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₃ i) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (VIh) , (Vlh), (VIl ₃ ), (VIl ₄ ) and (VIl ₅ ):

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) iH (Vlh),

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₂ -H (VI l ₂ ),

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₃ -H (VI l ₃ ),

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₄ -H (VI l ₄ ),

R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₅ -H (VI l ₅ ), in molar proportions of the said compounds of formulas (VIh), (VII2), (VIl ₃ ), (Vll ₄ ) and (VII5) respectively a'1, a'2, a ' ₃ , a' ₄ and a'5, such that the sum a'i + a'2 + a ' ₃ + a' ₄ + a'5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a'1 + 2a'2 + 3a ' ₃ + 4a' ₄ + 5a's is equal to x;

θ2β ₃ 2) - A proportion greater than or equal to 50% by mass and less than or equal to 70% by mass of a composition (C ₃ 2) represented by the formula (VIII):

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) _y -H (VIII), in which R ₃ 2 represents the n-octadecyl radical, G ₃ 2 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and y represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1 , 05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₃ 2) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vllh), (VIII2), (Vllh), (VIII4) and (VIIls):

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) iH (Vllh),

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) 2-H (Vllh),

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) ₃ -H (Vllh),

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) 4-H (VIII4),

R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) 5-H (Vllh), in molar proportions of the said compounds of formulas (Vllh), (Vllh), (VI11 ₃ ), (VIII4) and (Vllh) respectively equal to b ' 1, b'2, b ' ₃ , b' ₄ and b'5, such that the sum bh + b'2 + b ' ₃ + b' ₄ + b'5 is equal to 1, and that the sum bh + 2bh + 3b ' ₃ + 4b' ₄ + 5bh is equal to y, it being understood that the sum of the mass proportions of the compositions (C ₃ i) and (C ₃ 2) is equal to 100%, and it being understood that the sum of the proportions mass of compounds (a), (b), (c), (d) and (e) is equal to 100%.

Within the meaning of the present invention, by “crosslinked polymer”, is meant for the polymer (P), a non-linear polymer which, when added to water, is in the form of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water, but swellable with water and then leading to the production of a chemical gel.

Within the meaning of the present invention, in the polymer (P) as defined above, the term “salified” indicates that the strong acid function present in the monomer is in an anionic form associated in the form of salt with a cation, in particular the alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium cations, or as base nitrogen cations such as ammonium salt, lysine salt or monoethanolamine salt (HOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH ₄ ⁺ ) .

The strong acid function of the monomer comprising it is in particular the sulfonic acid function or the phosphonic acid function. Said monomer is, for example, partially or fully salified styrenesulfonic acid or, preferably 2-methyl 2 - [(1oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or fully salified.

According to a particular aspect of the present invention, the monomer having a strong acid function is 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, and more particularly the sodium or 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid ammonium.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said crosslinked polymer (P), results from polymerization for 100% molar:

(ai) - of a proportion greater than or equal to 40 mol% and less than or equal to 100 mol%, of monomeric units derived from a monomer having a strong acid function, partially salified or totally salified,

According to a first particular alternative of the present invention, said crosslinked polymer (P) is a crosslinked homopolymer of partially or fully salified 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1propanesulfonic acid.

According to a second particular alternative of the present invention, said crosslinked polymer (P) is a crosslinked copolymer of partially or fully salified 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1propanesulfonic acid and at least at least one monomer chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid partially or totally salified, (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate), (2,3-dihydroxy propyl acrylate), (2-hydroxy methacrylate ethyl), (2,3-dihydroxy propyl) methacrylate and vinyl pyrrolidone.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the water-in oil type emulsion (E) as defined above comprises from 20% by mass to 80% by mass and more particularly from 30% by mass to 80% by mass of said polymer ( P).

When said polymer (P) is a crosslinked copolymer, it is particularly derived from polymerization, for 100 mol%, (ai) - of a proportion greater than or equal to 40 mol% and less than 100 mol%, of monomeric units derived from a monomer having a strong acid function, partially salified or totally salified; and (a ₂ ) - of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 60 mol%, of monomeric units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid, the methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl 3 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] butanoic acid, the carboxylic function of said monomers being in acid form, partially salified or fully salified and / or from the elements of the group consisting of (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate), (2,3dihydroxy propyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxy methacrylate propyl) or vinyl pyrrolidone;

(as) - of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 1 mol% of monomeric units derived from at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR);

it being understood that the sum of the molar proportions of the monomeric units (ai), (a ₂ ) and (a ₃ ) is equal to 100%.

By at least one diethylenic or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR), is meant, in the definition of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) object of the present invention, a monomer in particular chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate , diethylene glycol diacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylene-bis (acrylamide) or a mixture of these compounds, diallyoxyacetic acid or one of its salts such as diallyloxyacetate sodium, or a mixture of these compounds.

According to another particular aspect, the crosslinking monomer (AR) is chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, and methylene-bis (acrylamide).

According to another particular aspect, the crosslinking monomer (AR) is used in a molar proportion of less than or equal to 0.5%, more particularly less than or equal to 0.25% and very particularly less than or equal to 0.1 %; it is more particularly greater than or equal to 0.005 mol%.

As examples of crosslinked polymers (P) which may be mentioned in the context of the present invention, there are more particularly:

- A homopolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide);

- A copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and acrylate of ( 2-hydroxy ethyl), crosslinked by triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide)

- A copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked by triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide).

- A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (y) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and (2-hydroxy acrylate) ethyl) (δ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of between 30/70 and 90/10;

- A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and (2-hydroxy acrylate) ethyl) (δ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of between 40/60 and 90/10;

- A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylic acid (ε) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10; and

- A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylic acid (ε) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) greater than or equal to 40/60 and less than or equal to 90/10.

By oil, is meant in the definition of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) which is the subject of the present invention, the oil (H) in particular:

- Linear alkanes containing from eleven to nineteen carbon atoms;

- Branched alkanes, containing from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane), or mixtures of certain d '' like those listed below and identified by their INCI name: C7-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C9-12 isoparaffin, C9-13 isoparaffin, C9-14 isoparaffin, C9-16 isoparaffin , C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-12 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-14 isoparaffin, C12-14 isoparaffin, C12-20 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, C13-16 isoparaffin ;

- Cyclo-alkanes optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals,

- White mineral oils, such as those marketed under the following names: Marcol ™ 52, Marcol ™ 82, Drakeol ™ 6VR, Eolane ™ 130, Eolane ™ 150,

- Hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyl-dodecane; CAS number: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane), hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene;

- The fatty alcohol ethers of formula (IX):

Z1-O-Z2 (IX), in which Z1 and Z _{2 which are} identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example the dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexadecyl ether, bis (1,3-dimethyl butyl) ether or dihexyl ether.

- Mono-esters of fatty acids and alcohols of formula (X):

R'j- (C = O) -OR ” ₂ (X), in which R” i- (C = O) represents an acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from eight to twenty-four atoms of carbon, and R ” ₂ represents, independently of R” i, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from one to twenty-four carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate , isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, cocoate hexyl, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, palmitate methyl, ethyl palmitate, propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, 2-butyl palmitate, palm hexyl itate, octyl palmitate, methyl oleate, ethyl oleate, propyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, butyl oleate, 2-butyl oleate , hexyl oleate, octyl oleate, methyl stearate, ethyl stearate, propyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-butyl stearate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, methyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, propyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, butyl isostearate, 2-butyl isostearate , hexyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate;

- The di-esters of fatty acids and of glycerol of formula (XI) and of formula (XII):

R ” ₃ - (C = O) -O-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O- (C = O) -R” ₄ (XI)

R ”5- (C = O) -O-CH ₂ -CH [O- (C = O) -R” ₆ ] -CH ₂ -OH (XII), formulas (XI) (XII) in which R ” ₃ - (C = O) and R ” ₄ - (C = O), R” ₅ - (C = O), R ”e- (C = O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms.

- The tri-esters of fatty acids and glycerol of formula (XIII): R ” ₇ - (C = O) -O-CH ₂ -CH [O- (C = O) -R” ₈ ] -CH ₂ - O- (C = O) -R ” ₉ (XII), in which R” 7- (C = O), R ”s- (C = O) and R” g- (C = O), identical or different, represent an acyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from eight to twenty-four carbon atoms.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said oil (H) is chosen from:

- Undecane, tridecane, isododecane or isohexadecane,

- The mixtures of alkanes and isoalkanes and cycloalkanes sold under the names Emogreen ™ L15, Emogreen ™ L19, Emosmart ™ L15, Emosmart ™ L19, Emosmart ™ V21, lsopar ™ L or lsopar ™ M;

- White mineral oils sold under the names Marcol ™ 52, Marcol ™ 82, Drakeol ™ 6VR, Eolane ™ 130 or Eolane ™ 150;

- Hemisqualane, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene or hydrogenated polydecene;

- Dioctyl ether or didecyl ether;

- Isopropyl myristate, hexyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoyl / decanoyl triglyceride, hexadecanoyl / octadecanoyl triglyceride, triglycerides from rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil or palm oil.

In the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) which is the subject of the present invention, the water-in-oil type emulsifying system (Si) consists either of a single emulsifying surfactant or of a mixture of emulsifying surfactants , provided that said mixture has an HLB value low enough to induce the formation of water-in-oil emulsions. As an emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type, mention may, for example, be made of esters of anhydro hexitol and of aliphatic carboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or several hydroxyl groups, and more particularly the anhydro hexitol esters chosen from anhydro-sorbitols and anhydro-mannitols and from aliphatic carboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

In the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) which is the subject of the present invention, the water-in-oil type emulsifying system (Si) is more particularly chosen from the elements of the group consisting of sorbitan laurate, by example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 20, sorbitan palmitate, for example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 40, sorbitan stearate, for example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 60, sorbitan oleate, for example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 80, sorbitan sesquioleate, for example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 85, sorbitan trioleate, for example that marketed under the name

Montane ™ 83, sorbitan isolaurate, sorbitan isostearate, for example that marketed under the name Montane ™ 70, mannitan laurate, mannitan oleate, or a mixture of these esters; polyesters of molecular weight between 1000 and 3000 and resulting from the condensation between a poly (isobutenyl) succinic acid or its anhydride, such as HYPERMER ™ 2296, or the mixture sold under the brand name SIMALINE ™ IE 501 A, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates of formula (XIV):

in which y ₂ represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, Z ₄ represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical, or the ethyl radical, Z ₃ represents a radical of formula (XV):

in which y ' ₂ represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10 and Z' ₂ represents a radical of formula (XV) as defined below above, with Z ₂ 'identical or different from Z ₂ , or the hydrogen atom.

As an example of an emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type of formula (XIV) which can be used to prepare the emulsifying system (Si), there is PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate marketed under the name SIMALINE ™ WO, or else mixtures comprising PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and marketed under the names SIMALINE ™ IE 201 A and SIMALINE ™ IE 201 B, or alternatively the mixture comprising Trimethylolpropane-30 tripolyhydroxystearate marketed under the name SIMALINE ™ IE 301 B.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsifier system (S ₂ ) of the oil-in-water type comprising for 100% of its mass, at least 75% by mass of said composition (C _e ) as defined above. According to a very particular aspect, said emulsifying system (S ₂ ) of the oil-in-water type is the composition (C _e ) as defined above.

By diluent agent of formula (I), is meant in the definition of said water-in-oil type emulsion (E), object of the present invention, in particular, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol or hexaglycerol.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said diluting agent is characterized in that in formula (I), n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 3. According to a very particular aspect, n is equal at 1.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsion of the oil-oil type (E), as defined above is characterized in that, in the formulas (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII) and (VIII), G21, G ₂₂ , G ₂₃ , G ₂₄ , G31 and G ₃₂ , identical or different, independently of one another represent the remainder of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, the dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran and tallose. Said residues of a reducing sugar G ₂ i, G ₂₂ , G ₂₃ , G ₂₄ , G ₃ i and G ₃₂ , identical or different, are more particularly chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose or arabinose.

According to a more particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) as defined above is characterized in that in the formulas (III), (IV), (V) and (VI), said residues of a reducing sugar G ₂ i, G ₂₂ , G ₂₃ , G ₂₄ are identical and represent the rest of the glucose, the rest of the xylose or the rest of arabinose and very particularly the rest of the glucose or the rest of the xylose.

According to a very particular aspect of the present invention, said water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above is characterized in that in the formulas (III), (IV), (V) and (VI), said residues of a reducing sugar G ₂ i, G ₂₂ , G ₂₃ , G ₂₄ are identical and represent the rest of the glucose.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) as defined above is characterized in that in the formulas (III), (IV), (V) and (VI), r, s, t and u respectively, independently of one another, represent a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5; this decimal number is in this case often less than or equal to 2.0, and for example greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above is characterized in that in formulas (VII) and (VIII), said remains of a reducing sugar G ₃ i and G ₃₂ represent the same residue of reducing sugar chosen from the remainder of glucose, the remainder of xylose and the remainder of arabinose, and very particularly represent the remainder of glucose, or the remainder of xylose. According to a very particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsion of water-in-oil type (E) as defined above is characterized in that in formulas (VII) and (VIII), said residues of a reducing sugar G ₃ i and G ₃₂ are identical and represent the rest of the glucose.

According to another more particular aspect of the present invention, said water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above is characterized in that in the formulas (VII) and (VIII), x and y respectively, represent a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5; this decimal number is in this case often less than or equal to 2.0, and for example greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, said emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) as defined above, is characterized in that the mass ratio: Δ = mass of the composition (C ₂ p ₂ ) / mass of the composition (C ₂ p3), is greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.0 and less than or equal to 8.0, very particularly greater than or equal to 1.5 and less or equal to 7.0, for example greater than or equal to 2.0 and less than or equal to 7.0.

Said water-in-oil type emulsion (E) which is the subject of the present invention is prepared by the implementation of a process known as “reverse emulsion polymerization”, well known to those skilled in the art, and which comprises the following steps :

a step a) of preparation of an aqueous phase comprising water, the water-soluble monomers and optionally the crosslinking monomer (AR), as well as additives commonly used such as, for example, sequestering agents such as Ethylene Diamine Tetra Acetic under its sodium form, or the penta-sodium salt of penta-acetic acid of diethylenetramine (marketed under the brand name Versenex ™ 80) a step b) of mixing the oily phase (H) with the emulsifying system of water type -in-oil (Si);

a step c) of mixing the aqueous phase and the oily phase, prepared during the previous step, and emulsification using a rotor-stator type mobile;

a step d) of nitrogen inerting;

a step e) of initiating the polymerization reaction by introducing into the emulsion formed in c), a free radical initiator and optionally a co-initiator; then it is allowed to take place, a step f) of introducing the emulsifier system (S ₂ ) of the oil-in-water type as defined above at a temperature below 50 C.

According to a particular aspect of the process as defined above, the polymerization reaction of step e) is initiated by an oxidoreductive couple generating hydrogen sulfite ions (HSO3 ·), such as the cumene hydroperoxide couple-sodium metabisulfite (Na ₂ S ₂ C> 5) or the cumene hydroperoxide-thionyl chloride pair (SOCI ₂ ) at a temperature less than or equal to 10 ° C., if desired accompanied by a polymerization co-initiating agent such as for example the azo-bis (isobutyronitrile) then conducted either in an almost adiabatic manner up to a temperature greater than or equal to 50 ° C., or by controlling the temperature.

According to another particular aspect of the process as defined above, the reaction medium resulting from stage e), is concentrated by distillation, before the implementation of stage

f).

According to another particular aspect of the process as defined above, the reaction medium originating from step e) or from step f) is atomized in a suitable installation.

According to another particular aspect of the process as defined above, the aqueous phase prepared in step a) can comprise chain reducing agents, intended to reduce the length of the polymer chains formed and to increase the rate of connection to the polymer, so as to modify the rheological properties.

Among the chain reducing agents suitable for the process as defined above, mention may be made of methanol, isopropanol, butylene glycol, 2-mercapto ethanol, thioglycolic acid, formic acid or its salts.

The composition (C _e ) included in the emulsifier system (S ₂ ) of the oil-in-water type is prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:

- A step A) of reaction, in the desired proportions, of a reducing sugar of formula (XVI) or a mixture of reducing sugars of formula (XVI):

HO- (G) -H (XVI) in which G represents the remainder of a reducing sugar, with a molar excess of a mixture of alcohols of formula (II):

C _m H ₂ m ₊ i-OH (II), as defined above, to form a mixture of compounds of formula (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII) and (VIII) such as defined above and an excess of said mixture of alcohols of formula (II);

- A step B) of partial elimination of the excess of said mixture of alcohols of formula (II) to form said composition (C _e2 ) as defined above;

- A step C) of mixing said composition (C _e2 ), with at least one diluting agent as defined above;

Step A) is generally implemented in a reactor in the presence of an acidic catalytic system, by controlling the stoichiometric ratio between the two reactants, and more particularly by introducing a molar excess of the mixture of alcohols of formula (II) , under mechanical stirring under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions, for example at a temperature between 70 ° C and 130 ° C and under a partial vacuum between 300 mbar (3.104 Pa) and 20 mbar (2.103 Pa). The expression “acid catalytic system” denotes strong acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, hypophosphorous acid, methanesulfonic acid, para-toluene sulfonic acid, l trifluoromethanesulfonic acid, or ion exchange resins.

The process as defined above can also comprise neutralization, filtration and discoloration operations.

The invention also relates to the use of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above as a thickening and / or emulsifying and / or stabilizing agent of a topical cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition.

According to a particular aspect, said use consists in thickening polar phases such as for example the aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic phases or the polar phases comprising polyols such as glycerol.

According to another particular aspect, said use consists in stabilizing an emulsion of oil-in-water type, or of water-in-oil type, by imparting a homogeneous appearance to said emulsion during storage under different conditions, and more particularly at 25. ° C for a duration at least equal to one month, and more particularly at 4 ° C for a duration at least equal to one month, and more particularly at 45 ° C for a duration at least equal to one month.

According to another particular aspect, said use consists in stabilizing solid particles in topical cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical compositions.

These solid particles to be suspended can have different geometries, regular or irregular, and be in the form of pearls, beads, rods, flakes, lamellae or polyhedra. These solid particles are characterized by an apparent average diameter of between one micrometer and five millimeters, more particularly between ten micrometers and one millimeter.

Among the solid particles which can be suspended and stabilized by the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above in topical cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical compositions, there are micas, oxide of iron, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, talc, silica, kaolin, clays, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, inorganic colored pigments, polyamides such as nylon-6, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyesters, acrylic or methacrylic polymers such as polymethylmethacrylates, polytetrafluoroethylene, crystalline or microcrystalline waxes, porous spheres , selenium sulphide, zinc pyrithione, starches, alginates, plant fibers, Loofah particles, sponge particles.

The subject of the invention is also a topical cosmetic composition (F) comprising for 100% of its total mass between 0.1% and 10% by mass of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined above. above as well as a topical pharmaceutical composition (G) characterized in that it comprises, as thickening agent, for 100% of its total mass between 0.1% and 10% by mass of the emulsion of the water-in-oil type ( E) as defined in one of claims 1 to 8.

The topical expression used in the definitions of said compositions (F) and (G), means that they are applied by application to the skin, hair, scalp or mucous membranes, whether '' a direct application in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical preparation or an indirect application for example in the case of a body care product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or sanitary products intended to be in contact with the skin or mucous membranes.

Said compositions (F) and (G) are generally in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nano -emulsion, whether of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type.

Said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, can be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the pump bottle type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device fitted with a ball applicator (called roll-on).

In general, said compositions (F) and (G) also comprise excipients and or active ingredients usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceuticals, such as thickening surfactants and / or gelling agents, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizing agents, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestrants, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agents intended for bleaching hair and skin, active principles intended to provide a treating action with respect to the skin or hair, sun filters, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of Active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents.

As examples of foaming surfactants and / or detergents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of foaming surfactants and / or anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic detergents.

Among the foaming anionic surfactants and / or detergents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or amino alcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates, alpha olefinsulfonates, paraffins sulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, N-acylated derivatives of peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, derivatives N-acylated fatty acids.

Among the foaming amphoteric surfactants and / or detergents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.

Among the cationic foaming and / or detergent surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made particularly of derivatives of quaternary ammoniums.

Among the foaming nonionic surfactants and / or detergents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned more particularly alkylpolyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product sold under the name INCI "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; copra amides; N-alkylamines.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned fatty esters optionally alkoxylated alkylpolyglycosides, such as the ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as the PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and the PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed respectively under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate marketed under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate marketed under the name ANTIL ™ 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS ™ T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS ™ GT2125.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of copolymers AMPS and alkyl acrylates, the carbon chain of which comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer having a function strong, free, partially salified or fully salified acid, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (XVII): CH ₂ = C (R'3) -C (= O) - [CH2-CH ₂ -O] n-R'4 (XVII) in which R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting only of oses, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main chain of D-mannose is between 0 and 1 , and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, like the galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1 / 3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of polysaccharides made up of derivatives of oses, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronanes and more particularly algines, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly gum xanthan, gellan gum, gum arabic and karaya gum exudates, glucosaminoglycans.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned cellulose , cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic starch derivatives, polyurethanes.

As examples of stabilizing agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly l ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

As examples of solvents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of water, organic solvents such as glycerol , diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, lexylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water and said organic solvents.

As examples of thermal or mineral waters which can be associated with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of thermal waters or mineral with a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and l water from Tercis-les-Bains.

As examples of hydrotropic agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of xylenesulfonates, cumenes sulfonates, hexylpolyglucoside, 2ethylhexylpolyglucoside, n-heptylpolyglucoside.

As examples of emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, non-ionic surfactants may be mentioned, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants.

As examples of nonionic emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of esters of fatty acids and sorbitol, such as the products sold under the names MONTANE ™ 40, MONTANE ™ 60, MONTANE ™ 70, MONTANE ™ 80 and MONTANE ™ 85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between 5 moles and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid with 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate sold under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methylglucoside esters; alkylpolyglycosides comprising an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, 12-hydroxystearyl polyglucoside; the compositions of linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 14 to 36 carbon atoms, and of alkylpolyglycosides as described above, for example the compositions sold under the names MONTANOV ™ 68, MONTANOV ™ 14, MONTANOV ™ 82, MONTANOV ™ 202, MONTANOV ™ S, MONTANOV ™ WO18, MONTANOV ™ L, FLUIDANOV ™ 20X and EASYNOV ™.

As examples of anionic surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate citrate, cetarylsulfate , soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acyl derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.

As examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of aminoxides, quaternium- 82 and the surfactants described in patent application WO96 / 00719 and mainly those in which the fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.

As examples of opacifiers and / or pearlescent agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of palmitate. sodium, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of texture agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE ™ LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO ™, myristyl polyglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV ™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers , chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.

As examples of deodorant agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2 decanediol; 1,3 propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN ™; aluminum hydrobromide, aluminum hydrochlorides, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium hydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium tetrachloride , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorhydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorhydrate, aluminum sulfate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum hydrochloride and glycol complexes, such as aluminum hydrochloride and propylene glycol, aluminum dihydrochloride and propylene glycol complex, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol complex, aluminum hydrochloride and polyethylene glycol complex, dihydrochloride complex aluminum and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.

As examples of oils which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, isoparaffins or white mineral oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane; vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils from flowers or vegetables ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefins), polyolefins such as poly (isobutane ), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, silicones modified by amines, silicones modified by fatty acids, silicones modified by alcohols, silicones modified by alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified by polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified by fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified by alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of beeswax, wax carnauba, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids solid at room temperature; solid glycerides at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

As examples of active principles which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters , such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, such as ω-undecelynoyl phenylalanine sold under the name SEPIWHITE ™ MSH, SEPICALM ™ VG, the mono ester and / or glycerol diester of ω-undecelynoyl phenylalanine, ω-undecelynoyl dipeptides, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; compounds showing a soothing action, in particular SEPICALM ™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a hydrating action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylplucoside; plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADIPOLESS ™, fucoxanthin; acylated N proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL ™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine ™; wheat extracts, for example TENSINE ™ or GLIADINE ™; plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; extracts of freshwater or marine algae; extracts of marine plants; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing an antimicrobial action or a purifying action, such as LIPACIDE ™ C8G, LIPACIDE ™ UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5; OCTOPIROX ™ or SENSIVA ™ SC50; compounds showing an energizing or stimulating property such as PHYSIOGENYL ™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP ™ MP; anti-aging active ingredients such as SEPILIFT ™ DPHP, LIPACIDE ™ PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVA ™, PHYTO-AGE ™, leTIMECODE ™; SURVICODE ™; anti-photo aging active ingredients; protective agents for the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction; active ingredients increasing the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; active agents favorably acting on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins; active ingredients creating a feeling of "warming" on the skin such as activators of the microcirculation of the skin (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products creating a feeling of "freshness" on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives) ; active ingredients improving skin microcirculation, for example veinotonics; draining active ingredients; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, small holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; agents for tanning or browning the skin, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxane, ninhydrin, plant extracts for example wood extracts reds of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pteropcarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida as those described in European patent application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their facilitating and / or accelerating action on the tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their coloring action on human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the brand name "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the company Provital, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on the acceleration of tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example the product marketed under the brand name "SunTan Accelerator ™" by the Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the brand name "Zymo Tan Complex" by the company Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze ™ ( INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains acetyl tyrosine, product marketed under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24/242/2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX, the product marketed under the brand name "Try-Excell ™" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylind rica (Seed) Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma which contains extracts of pumpkin seeds (or Loofah oil), the product marketed under the brand name "Actibronze ™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrostan ™ (name INCI: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosinol (name INCI: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by Synerga, the product marketed under the brand name InstaBronze ™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the brand name Tyrosilane ( INCI: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol; peptides known for their melanogenesis activation effect, for example the product marketed under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company Infinitec Activos, the product marketed under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) comprising acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its agonist action of alpha-MSH, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions ™ (INCI name: Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by the company LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example the product marketed under the brand name Tanositol ™ (INCI name: inositol) by the company Provital, the product marketed under the name of brand Thalitan ™ (or Phycosaccharide ™ AG) by the company CODIF international (INCI name: Aqua and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing u n oligosaccharide of marine origin (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions), the product marketed under the brand name Melactiva ™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by the company Alban Muller, the compounds rich in flavonoids for example the product sold under the brand name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (hesperidin type); agents intended for the treatment of hair and / or body hair, for example agents protecting the melanocytes of the hair follicle, intended to protect said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as agents mimicking the activity of DOPAchrome tautomerase chosen from those described in the European patent application published under number EP1515688 A2, synthetic molecules mimicking SOD, for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds, for example cyclodextrin derivatives , silicic compounds derived from ascorbic acid, lysine or arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, combinations of cinnamic acid and vitamin C diester and more generally those cited in the published European patent application under the number EP 1 515 688 A2.

As examples of antioxidant agents which can be combined with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, there may be mentioned EDTA and its salts , citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisol), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE1 GL 47S sold by Akzo Nobel under the name INCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.

As examples of sunscreens which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76 / 768 / EEC as amended annex VII.

Among the organic sunscreens which can be combined with the emulsion of the oil-oil type (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of N, Npropoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of Ν, Ν-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, Ndimethyl PABA, the methyl esters Ν, Ν-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, Ndimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate (pmethoxy 2-ethylhexyl cinnamate), p-methoxy 2-ethoxyethyl cinnamate, pmethoxycyclohexyl cinnamate, ethyl-a-cyano-p-phenyl cinnamate , 2-ethylhexyl-acyano-p-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate; the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy -4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, l-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) -d, camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, 2,4,6-trianillino- (p-carbo-2'ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3,5 -triazi ne, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis- (2 -ethylhexyl) ester of benzoic acid, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'méthyphényl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4-tbutylbenzoylmethane; 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one; the family of diphenylacrylate derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called mineral screens, which can be associated with the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) in said compositions (F) and (G) as defined above, mention may be made of titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides. These mineral screens can be micronized or not, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.

Ia - Preparation of a composition (C _e 2A) based on alkylpolyglucosides and glycerol.

72.5 kilograms (or 8.5 molar equivalents) of a mixture (Mi) comprising, for 100% of its mass, 30.2% by mass of 1-octanol, 38.4% by mass of 1decanol, 7 , 4% by mass of 1-dodecanol, 8.9% by mass of 1-tetradecanol, 5.1% by mass of 1-hexadecanol and 10.0% by mass of 1-octadecanol by introducing with stirring and at 90 ° C, successively each of the aforementioned fatty alcohols in desired proportions.

The mixture (Mi) is homogenized at 90 ° C for thirty minutes, then added with 8.7 kilograms (or a molar equivalent) of glucose, then with 80 grams of 98% sulfuric acid. The reaction medium is then placed under a partial vacuum of 90x10 ² Pa (90mbar) to 45x10 ² Pa (45mbar), and maintained at a temperature of 100 ° C to 105 ° C for five hours with evacuation of the water formed. The reaction medium is then cooled to 80 ° C and neutralized by adding 76 grams of 40% sodium hydroxide. The product is filtered to remove unreacted glucose.

72.0 kilograms of a medium are obtained comprising the glucosidic species formed as well as the unreacted stoichiometric excess fatty alcohols. The residual alcohols present in the mixture thus obtained are then eliminated by passing through a thin film film evaporator.

36.6 kilograms of the reaction medium thus neutralized are then introduced into a thin-film film evaporator, under a reduced pressure of ³ × 10 ² Pa (3mbar) to 5 × 10 Pa (5mbar) with a wall temperature of 240 ° C., for distilling the major part of the residual alcohols and obtain 4.5 kilograms of a concentrate, to which 4.5 kilograms of glycerol are gradually added with stirring, so as to obtain 9.0 kilograms of the expected composition (Ce2a).

Ib - Preparation of a composition (C _e 2B) based on alkylpolyglucosides and diglycerol

The procedure of Example 1 described above is reproduced by replacing the glycerol with diglycerol, in mass proportions such that they make it possible to obtain the composition (Ce2B), comprising for 100% of its mass, 50% mass of diglycerol.

the - Preparation of a composition (C _e 2c) based on alkylpolyglucosides and polyglycerol-6

The procedure of Example 1 described above is reproduced by replacing the glycerol with polyglycerol-6 (sold under the brand name Polyglycerol6 ™ from the company SPIGA), in mass proportions such that they make it possible to obtain the composition (Ce2c), comprising for 100% of its mass, 50% by mass of polyglycerol-6.

It - Preparation of a composition (Ο _β 2τ) based on alkylpolyglucosides and 1,3propanediol

The procedure of Example 1 described above is reproduced by replacing the glycerol with 1,3-propanediol (sold under the brand name Zemea ™ propanediol from the company Dupont-Tate & Lyle), in mass proportions such that they make it possible to obtain the composition (Οθ2τ) comprising, for 100% of its mass, 22% by mass of 1,3propanediol.

II - Preparation and evaluation of self-reversible reverse latexes of a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl acid - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid and partially acrylic acid salified.

An aqueous phase is prepared by pouring successively into a beaker and with stirring, 277 grams of deionized water, 73.1 grams of glacial acrylic acid, 308 grams of 2-methyl acid - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl ) amino] 1-propanesulfonic, 141 grams of a 48% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, 0.45 grams of a 40% mass commercial aqueous solution of diethylenetriamine penta-sodium acetate and 0.128 grams of methylene bis (acrylamide). The pH of this aqueous phase is then adjusted to 5.4 and the solution completed with deionized water until it weighs 682 grams.

An organic phase is independently prepared by mixing 220 grams of isohexadecane, 15 grams of Montané ™ 80, 10 grams of Montané ™ 70 and 0.2 grams of azo bis (isobutyronitryl) (AIBN).

The prepared aqueous phase is then gradually added to the oily phase and then dispersed using an Ultra Turrax type rotor stator sold by the company Ika.

The emulsion obtained is transferred to a reactor to be subjected to a nitrogen sparge to remove the oxygen and cooled to approximately 5-6 ° C. 5 cm ³ of a 0.42% by mass solution of cumene hydroperoxide in isohexadecane are added to the emulsion maintained with stirring, then an aqueous solution of 2.5% by mass of sodium metabisulfite is introduced gradually at a rate of 0.5 cm ³ per minute for sixty minutes to initiate the polymerization reaction. The temperature of the medium increases until it reaches a plateau. The reaction medium is then heated to 85 ° C for one hour and then the whole is cooled to about 35 ° C to obtain the mixture noted (M ₂ ).

The mixture (M ₂ ) previously obtained is fractionated into different portions to which are added the different surfactant compositions ((Ce2A)), (Ce2B), (Ce2c) and (Ce2-r), as described above, as well as Polysorbate 80 (78% by mass of active ingredient) marketed under the brand name Montanox ™ 80 (S2), and an aqueous solution of capryl / caprylyl polyglucosides (60% by mass of active ingredient) sold under the brand name Simulsol ™ SL8 (denoted composition S'2), in mass proportions as indicated in table 1 below.

The self-reversible reverse latexes resulting from these mixtures are respectively denoted (E1), (E ₂ ), (E ₃ ), (Eci), (Ec2) and (Ec ₃ ) and are evaluated by observing their appearance at 25 ° C, by their viscosity at 25 ° C, by the rate of inversion during the preparation of an aqueous gel at 2% by mass of self-reversible reverse latex, by the viscosity of this aqueous gel at 2% by mass d '' a self-reversible reverse latex and by the viscosity of an aqueous gel at 3% by mass of self-reversible reverse latex in the presence of 0.1% by mass of sodium chloride.

The method for evaluating the inversion time of reverse self-reversing latexes consists in pouring into a one-liter beaker, the amount of water necessary for the preparation of an aqueous gel of 800 grams. A mechanical agitator propeller of the Turbotest ™ type, connected to a motor, is placed towards the bottom of the beaker. Stirring is started at a speed of 200 5 revolutions / minute and the necessary amount of self-reversible reverse latex to be evaluated is introduced into the beaker with stirring. The agitation is gradually increased in order to maintain the same height of the vortex in the beaker throughout the thickening phase, until a homogeneous and smooth gel is obtained. The inversion time of the self-reversible reverse latexes corresponds to the time elapsed between the start of the addition of the self-reversible reverse latex tested and the obtaining of a smooth, lump-free gel. The results obtained are reported in Table 1 below.

Self-reversible reverse latex (Ei) (E ₂ ) (Es) Mass proportion of tested surfactant composition contained in the self-reversible reverse latex (Ce2A): 6% (C _e2B ): 6% (Ce ₂ c): 6% Viscosity of aqueous gels and self-reversible reverse latex (in mPas) (Brookfield RVT) 2% mass gel in self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 81,000 74,000 86.000 Aqueous gel at 3% by mass in self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 124.800 122.000 130,000 Aqueous gel at 3% by mass in self-reversible reverse latex + 0.1% by mass in NaCI (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 33,200 32640 28,900 Self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (Mobile 3 Speed 20) 2,330 1.530 1560 Inversion time (in minutes)

2 6 6 Self-reversible reverse latex appearance at 25 ° C Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous

Table 1

Self-reversible reverse latex (Eci) (Ec ₂ ) (EC3) Mass proportion of tested surfactant composition contained in the self-reversible reverse latex (Ce2T): 5% (S ₂ ): 5% (S ' ₂ ): 5% Viscosity of aqueous gels and self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (in mPas) (Brookfield RVT) 2% mass gel in self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) Not measured 67,000 75.200 Aqueous gel at 3% by mass in self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) Not measured 118.000 120.000 Aqueous gel at 3% by mass in self-reversible reverse latex + 0.1% by mass in NaCI (Mobile 6 Speed 5) Not measured 22,400 22,400 Self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (Mobile 3 Speed 20) 1,120 1,450 1,250 Inversion time (in minutes) > 1,440 2 3 Self-reversible reverse latex appearance at 25 ° C Presence of grains after 24 hours; heterogeneous Homogeneous Presence of grains

* nm: not measured

Table 1 (continued)

The self-inverting inverse latexes (Ei), (E ₂ ) and (E3) according to the invention, free of alkoxylated derivatives, make it possible to obtain smooth gels, with an inversion time of less than 5 to 10 minutes, having d '' excellent thickening properties. In addition, they are characterized by a lower drop in the viscosity of a gel at 3% by mass in the presence of salt in comparison in particular with the self-reversible reverse latex (Es ₂ ).

III - Preparation and evaluation of self-reversible reverse latexes of a homopolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid.

An aqueous phase is prepared by pouring successively into a beaker and with stirring, 220 grams of deionized water, 343.5 grams of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, 138 , 1 gram of an aqueous solution at 48% by mass of sodium hydroxide, 0.18 gram of a commercial solution at 40% by mass of diethylenetriamine penta-sodium acetate and 0.140 gram of methylene bis (acrylamide). The pH of this aqueous phase is then adjusted to 3.5 and the solution completed with deionized water until it weighs 707 grams.

An organic phase is independently prepared by mixing 220 grams of isohexadecane, 22 grams of Montané ™ 80VG, and 0.2 grams of AIBN.

The prepared aqueous phase is then gradually added to the oily phase and then dispersed using an Ultra Turrax type rotor stator sold by the company Ika.

The emulsion obtained is transferred to a reactor to be subjected to a nitrogen sparge to remove the oxygen and cooled to approximately 5-6 ° C. 5 cm ³ of a 0.42% by mass solution of cumene hydroperoxide in isohexadecane are added to the emulsion maintained with stirring, then an aqueous solution of 2.5% by mass of sodium metabisulfite is introduced gradually at a rate of 0.5 cm ³ per minute for sixty minutes to initiate the polymerization reaction. The temperature of the medium will increase until it reaches a plateau. The reaction medium is maintained at this temperature for an hour and a half, then the whole is cooled to approximately 35 ° C to obtain the mixture noted (M ₃ ).

The mixture (M ₃ ) previously obtained is divided into different portions, to which are added different surfactant compositions (C _e2 A), (S ₂ ) and (S ' ₂ ), in mass proportions as indicated in table 2 ci below, to obtain the self-reversible reverse latexes respectively referenced (E ₄ ), (Ec ₄ ) and (Ecs). They are evaluated as in paragraph II above. The results obtained are reported in Table 2 below.

Self-reversible reverse latex (E ₄ ) (Ec4) (Ecs) Mass proportion of tested surfactant composition contained in the self-reversible reverse latex (Ce2A): 5% (S ₂ ): 5% (S ' ₂ ): 5% Viscosity of aqueous gels and self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (in mPas) (Brookfield RVT) 2% mass gel in self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 117.000 103.000 Not measured 3% mass gel in reverse self-reversible latex + 0.1% mass NaCI (Mobile 6 Speed 5) mPa.s 6,500 6320 Not measured Self-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 3 Speed 20) 2,660 1.935 Not measured Inversion time in minutes 4 3 Not measured Self-reversible reverse latex appearance at 25 ° C Homogeneous latex Homogeneous latex Viscous, grainy, heterogeneous latex

Table 2

The self-reversible reverse latex (E ₄ ) according to the invention, free of alkoxylated and more particularly ethoxylated derivatives, makes it possible to obtain a smooth gel, with an inversion time of less than 10 minutes, having excellent thickening properties.

IV - Preparation and evaluation of a reverse latex comprising a crosslinked copolymer of the sodium salt of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid and (2-hydroxy acrylate) ethyl).

An aqueous phase is prepared by pouring successively into a beaker and with stirring, 20.4 grams of (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate), 660 grams of a commercial aqueous solution at 55% by mass of 2-methyl- [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] Sodium 1propanesulfonate, 0.45 grams of a 40% by weight commercial aqueous solution of diethylenetriamine penta-sodium acetate and 0.123 grams of methylene bis (acrylamide). The pH of this aqueous phase is then adjusted to 4.0 by adding 0.55 grams of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid.

An organic phase is independently prepared by mixing 265 grams of squalane, 17.76 grams of Montané ™ 80 VG, 9.24 grams Montanox ™ 81 VG and 0.2 grams of azo bis (isobutyronitryl) (AIBN).

The prepared aqueous phase is then gradually added to the oily phase and then dispersed using an Ultra Turrax type rotor stator sold by the company Ika.

The emulsion obtained is transferred to a reactor to be subjected to a nitrogen sparge to remove the oxygen and cooled to approximately 5-6 ° C. 10 cm ³ of a 0.28% by mass solution of cumene hydroperoxide in squalane are added to the emulsion maintained with stirring, then a 2.5% by mass aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfite is gradually introduced at a flow rate of 0.5 cm ³ per minute for sixty minutes to initiate the polymerization reaction and allowing the temperature to rise to 75 C. The reaction medium is then maintained for approximately 60 minutes at this temperature, at the end of which the mixture obtained is cooled to approximately 35. The whole is cooled to a temperature of about 35 ° C (M4).

The mixture (M4) previously obtained is divided into different portions to which are added the different surfactant compositions (Ce2A), (S ₂ ), and (S ' ₂ ), in mass proportions as indicated in Table 3 below. .

The self-reversible reverse latexes resulting from these mixtures are respectively denoted (Es), (Ece) and (Ecz). They are evaluated as in paragraph II above. The results obtained are recorded in the following table 3:

Self-reversible reverse latex (Es) (Ece) (EC7) Mass proportion of tested surfactant composition contained in the self-reversible reverse latex (Ce2A): 3% (S ₂ ): 3% (S ' ₂ ): 3% Viscosity of aqueous gels and self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (in mPas) (Brookfield RVT) 3% mass gel in reverse self-reversible latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 99.600 105.400 98.000 3% mass gel in reverse self-reversible latex + 0.1% mass NaCI (Mobile 6 Speed 5) mPa.s 9,900 30540 2830 Auto-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 3 Speed 20) 2,050 1,800 2,100 Inversion time in minutes 6 3 3 Self-reversible reverse latex appearance at 25 ° C Homogeneous latex Homogeneous latex Viscous, grainy, heterogeneous latex

Table 3

The self-reversible reverse latex (Es) according to the invention, free of alkoxylated and more particularly ethoxylated derivatives, makes it possible to obtain a smooth gel, with an inversion time of less than 10 minutes, having excellent thickening properties.

V - Preparation of a Reverse Latex Comprising a Crosslinked Copolymer of the Sodium Salt of 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide

An aqueous phase is prepared by pouring successively into a beaker and with stirring, 80 grams of deionized water, 253.8 grams of a commercial aqueous solution at 50% by weight of acrylamide, 246.7 grams of 2- acid. methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic, 95.96 grams of a 48% by mass aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide, 0.45 grams of a 40% commercial solution by weight of diethylenetriamine penta-sodium acetate and 0.115 gram of methylene bis (acrylamide). The pH of this aqueous phase is then adjusted to 5.5 and the solution completed with deionized water until it weighs 682 grams.

An organic phase is independently prepared by mixing 220 grams of isohexadecane, 21 grams of Montane ™ 80 VG and 0.2 grams of azo bis (isobutyronitryl) (AIBN).

The prepared aqueous phase is then gradually added to the oily phase and then dispersed using an Ultra Turrax type rotor stator sold by the company Ika.

The emulsion obtained is transferred to a reactor to be subjected to a nitrogen sparge to remove the oxygen and cooled to approximately 5-6 ° C. 5 cm ³ of a 0.28% by mass solution of cumene hydroperoxide in hexadecane are added to the emulsion maintained with stirring, then an aqueous solution of 2.5% by mass of sodium metabisulfite is introduced gradually at a flow rate of 0.5 cm ³ per minute for sixty minutes to initiate the polymerization reaction and allowing the temperature to rise to 75 C. The reaction medium is then maintained for approximately 60 minutes at this temperature, at from which the mixture obtained is cooled to approximately 35 ° C. The whole is cooled to a temperature of about 35 ° C (Ms).

The mixture (Ms) previously obtained is divided into different portions to which are added different mass proportions of the surfactant composition (Ce2A), as indicated in Table 4 below.

The self-reversible reverse latexes resulting from these mixtures are respectively denoted (Ece) and (Ecs). They are evaluated as in paragraph II above. The results obtained are reported in Table 4 below.

Self-reversible reverse latex (Ec ₈ ) (Ecg) Mass proportion of tested surfactant composition contained in the self-reversible reverse latex (Ce2A): 5% (C _e2 A): 5.5% Viscosity of aqueous gels and self-reversible reverse latex at 25 ° C (in mPas) (Brookfield RVT) 3% mass gel in reverse self-reversible latex (Mobile 6 Speed 5) 159.000 163.000 Gel with 3% by mass of self-reversible reverse latex + 0.1% by mass NaCI (Mobile 6 Speed 5) mPa.s 16480 15,400 Auto-reversible reverse latex (Mobile 3 Speed 20) Not measured Unmeasurable Inversion time in minutes 90 8 Self-reversible reverse latex appearance at 25 ° C Homogeneous and viscous latex Viscous, heterogeneous and stringy latex

Table 4

Self-reversible reverse latexes (E _c8 ) and (E _c g), free of alkoxylated derivatives, do not make it possible to obtain a smooth gel with an inversion time of less than 10 minutes and having a homogeneous appearance.

VI: Illustrative cosmetic formulations

In the following formulations, the percentages are expressed in percentage by mass per 100% of the mass of the formulation.

Via - Care cream

FORMULA

Cyclomethicone: 10%

Self-reversible reverse latex (Ei): 0.8%

Montanov ™ 68: 2%

Stearyl alcohol: 1%

Stearic alcohol: 0.5%

Conservative : 0.65% Lysine: 0.025% EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05% Xanthan gum: 0.2% Glycerin: 3% Water: q.s.p. 100%

Vlb - Sun milk

FORMULA

At Montanov ™ 68: 3.0% Sesame oil : 5.0% PARSOL ™ MCX: 5.0% Carrageenan λ: 0.10% Beautiful : q.s. 100% C Self-reversible reverse latex (Es): 0.80% D Perfume: qs Conservative : qs

OPERATING MODE

Emulsify B in A at 60 ° C then add C around 60 ° C, then D around 30 ° C and adjust the pH if necessary.

Life - Body milk

FORMULA

Montanov ™ 202: 3.5% LANOL ™ 37T: 8.0% SOLAGUM ™ L: 0.05% Water: q.s. 100% Benzophenone-3: 2.0% Dimethicone 350cPs: 0.05% Self-reversible reverse latex (E ₄ ): 2.5% Conservative : 0.2% Perfume: 0.4%

Vld - Make-up remover emulsion with sweet almond oil

FORMULA

Montanov ™ 202:

5%

Sweet almond oil: 5% Water: q.s. 100% Self-reversible reverse latex (E ₃ ): 0.3% Glycerin: 5% Conservative : 0.2% Perfume: 0.3%

Vie: Moisturizing cream for oily skin

FORMULA

Montanov ™ 68: 5% Cetylstearylctanoate: 8% Octyl palmitate: 2% Water: q.s. 100% Self-reversible reverse latex (Es): 2.6% MICROPEARL ™ M100: 3.0% Mucopolysaccharides: 5% SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.8% Perfume: 0.3%

Vif - Cleansing milk

Montanov ™ 68: 3% PRIMOL ™ 352: 8.0% Sweet almond oil: 2% Water: q.s. 100% Self-reversible reverse latex (E ₂ ): 0.8% Conservative : 0.2%

Vlg - - Sun milk

Montanov ™ L: 3.5% LANOL ™ 37T: 10.0% PARSOL ™ MCX: 5.0% EUSOLEX ™ 4360: 2.0% Water: q.s. 100% Self-reversible reverse latex (Ei): 1.8% Conservative : 0.2% Perfume: 0.4%

Vlh - Sunless tanning emulsion

LANOL ™ 99: 15%

Montanov ™ 68: 3.0%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 3.0% Water: q.s. 100% Dihydroxyacetone: 5.0% Monosodium phosphate: 0.2% Self-reversible reverse latex (Ll ₃ ): 2.5% Perfume: 0.3% SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.8% Sodium hydroxide : qs pH = 5.

Vli - Care cream

Cyclomethicone: 10% Self-reversible reverse latex (Lh): 2.8% Montanov ™ 202: 4.5% Conservative : 0.65% Lysine: 0.025% EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05% Xanthan gum: 0.2% Glycerin: 3% Water: qs. 100%

Vlj - Sunscreen

SIMULSOL ™ 165: 3% Montanov ™ 68: 2% Benzoate C12-C15: 8% PECOSIL ™ PS 100: 2% Dimethicone: 2% Cyclomethicone: 5% Octyl para-methoxy cinnamate: 6% Benzophenone-3: 4% Titanium oxide: 8% Xanthan gum : 0.2% Butylene glycol: 5%

Demineralized water: qs 100%

Self-reversible reverse latex (E ₂ ): 1.5%

Preservative, fragrance: qs

Vlk - Sun and self-tanning gel

Montanov ™ 68: 3.0%

Glyceryl triheptanoate: 10.0%

DEEPALINE ™ PVB: 1.05%

Self-reversible reverse latex (Es): 2.2%

Water: qs 100%

Dihydroxyacetone: 5%

Perfume: 0.1%

SEPICIDE ™ HB: 0.3%

SEPICIDE ™ Cl: 0.1%

PARSOL ™ MCX: 4.0%

The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are as follows:

MICROPEARL ™ M 100 is an ultra fine powder with a very soft touch and mattifying action

SEPICIDE ™ Cl, imidazolidine urea, is a marketed preservative

SIMULSOL ™ 165 is self-emulsifying glycerol stearate

SEPICIDE ™ HB, which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative

PARSOL ™ MCX is octyl para-methoxy cinnamate

LANOL ™ 37T is glycerol triheptanoate,

SOLAGUM ™ L is a carrageenan

The EUSOLEX ™ 4360 is a solar filter

DEEPALINE ™ PVB, is a hydrolyzate of acylated wheat proteins

PRIMOL ™ 352 is a mineral oil

PECOSIL ™ PS 100 is Dimethicone PEG-7

Montanov ™ 68 (INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent

Montanov ™ L (INCI name C14-22 Alcohols (and) C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside) is an emulsifying agent

Montanov ™ 202 (INCI name Arachidyl Alcohol & Behenyl Alcohol & Arachidyl) is an emulsifying agent

Claims (11)

1. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) comprising for 100% of its mass: a) - from 10% by mass to 80% by mass, of a crosslinked polymer (P), resulting from polymerization for 100% molar: (ai) - of a proportion greater than or equal to 30 mol% and less than or equal to 100 mol%, of monomeric units derived from a monomer having a strong acid function, partially salified or fully salified; and (a ₂ ) - Optionally of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 70 mol%, of monomeric units derived from at least one monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylic acid, l methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid, 3-methyl 3 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] butanoic acid, the carboxylic function of said monomers being in acid form, partially salified or fully salified and / or from the elements of the group consisting of (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate), (2,3dihydroxy propyl) acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, (2,3-) methacrylate dihydroxy propyl) or vinyl pyrrolidone; (a ₃ ) - of a proportion greater than 0 mol% and less than or equal to 1 mol% of monomeric units derived from at least one diethylene or polyethylene crosslinking monomer (AR); it being understood that the sum of the molar proportions of the monomeric units (ai), (a ₂ ) and (a ₃ ) is equal to 100%; b) - from 5% by mass to 50% by mass, of an oily phase consisting of at least one oil (H), and c) - from 1% by mass to 50% by mass of water, d) - from 0.5% by mass to 10% by mass of an emulsifying system (Si) of the water-in-oil type, and e) - from 2% by mass to 10% by mass of an emulsifying system (S ₂ ) of the oil-in-water type comprising for 100% of its mass, at least 50% by mass of a composition (C _e ) comprising for 100% of its mass: ei) - A proportion greater than or equal to 20% by mass and less than or equal to 80% by mass of a diluting agent of formula (I): HO- [CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -O-] _n -H (I), in which n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 6, or a mixture of said agents diluents, e ₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 20% by mass and less than or equal to 80% by mass of a composition (Ce2) comprising for 100% of its mass: e _2a ) - A proportion greater than 0% and less than or equal to 4% by mass of at least one alcohol of formula (II): C _m H _2m + i-OH (II), in which m represents an even whole number greater than or equal to 8 and less than or equal to 18; e ₂ p) - A proportion greater than or equal to 96% by mass and less than 100% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p) comprising: e ₂ p ₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 60% by mass and less than or equal to 90% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p ₂ ) comprising for 100% of its mass: e ₂ p ₂ i) - A proportion greater than or equal to 5% by mass and less than or equal to 20% by mass of a composition (C21) represented by the formula (III): R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) rH (III), in which R21 represents the n-dodecyl radical, G21 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and r represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal at 5.00, said composition (C21) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (III1), (1112), (III3), (1114) and (IIIs): R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) iH (HI1), R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₂ -H (III2) R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) 3-H (LLLS) R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) ₄ -H (III4), R ₂ iO- (G ₂ i) sH (LLLS) in molar proportions of so-called compounds of formulas (III1), (III2), (III3), (IH4) and (III5) respectively equal to ai, a2, a3, a ₄ and as, such that the sum ai + a2 + a3 + a ₄ + as is equal to one, and the sum ai + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a ₄ + 5as is equal to r; e ₂ p ₂₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 10% by mass and less than or equal to 20% by mass of a composition (C ₂₂ ) represented by the formula (IV): R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) _s -H (IV), in which R ₂₂ represents the n-tetradecyl radical, G ₂₂ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and s represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₂₂ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (IV1), (IV ₂ ), (IV3), (IV ₄ ) and (IVs): R22-O- (G ₂₂ ) 1H (IV1) R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) ₂ -H (IV2), R ₂₂ -O- (G ₂₂ ) ₃ -H (IV3), R22-O- (G ₂₂ ) ₄ -H (IV4), R22-O- (G ₂₂ ) 5-H (IVs) in molar proportions of so-called compounds of formulas (IVi), (IV ₂ ), (IV ₃ ), (IV ₄ ) and (IVs) respectively equal to bi, b ₂ , b ₃ , b ₄ and bs, such that the sum: bi + b ₂ + b ₃ + b4 + bs is equal to one, and the sum bi + 2b ₂ + 3b ₃ + 4b ₄ + 5bs is equal to s; e ₂ p ₂₃ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 25% by mass and less than or equal to 40% by mass of a composition (C ₂₃ ) represented by the formula (V): R ₂₃ -O- (G ₂₃ ) tH (V), in which R23 represents the n-octyl radical, G23 represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and t represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal at 5.00, said composition (C23) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (Vs): R23-O- (G ₂₃ ) iH (V1), R ₂₃ -O- (G ₂₃ ) ₂ -H (V ₂ ), R ₂₃ -O- (G ₂₃ ) ₃ -H (V3), R ₂ 3-O- (G ₂₃ ) ₄ -H (V4), R23-O- (G ₂₃ ) 5-H (V ₅ ), in molar proportions of so-called compounds of formulas (V1), (V ₂ ), (V ₃ ), (V ₄ ) and (V5) respectively equal to Ci, c ₂ , c ₃ , c ₄ and C5, such that the sum: C1 + c ₂ + c ₃ + c ₄ + es is equal to one, and that the sum Ci + 2c ₂ + 3c ₃ + 4c ₄ + 5cs is equal to t; e ₂ p ₂₄ ) - A mass proportion greater than or equal to 30% by mass and less than or equal to 55% by mass of a composition (C ₂₄ ) represented by the formula (VI): R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂₄ ) _u -H (VI), in which R ₂₄ represents the n-decyl radical, G ₂₄ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and u represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₂₄ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vh), (Vl ₂ ), (Vl ₃ ), (Vl ₄ ) and (Vl ₅ ): R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂₄ ) iH (Vh), R ₂₄ -O- (G ₂₄ ) 2-H (VI2) R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂ 4) 3-H (Screw), R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂ 4) 4-H (VI4), R ₂ 4-O- (G ₂ 4) 5-H (Screw), in in the molar proportions of said compounds of formulas (Vh), (Vl ₂ ), (Vl ₃ ), (VI4) and (VI5) respectively equal to di, d ₂ , d ₃ , d4 and ds, such as the sum : di + d ₂ + d ₃ + d4 + ds is equal to one, and that the sum di + 2d ₂ + 3d ₃ + 404 + 5ds is equal to u; it being understood that the sum of the mass proportions of the compositions (C ₂ i), (C ₂₂ ), (C ₂₃ ), and (C ₂ 4), is equal to 100%; e ₂ p3) - a proportion greater than or equal to 10% by mass and less than or equal to 40% by mass of a composition (C ₂ p3) comprising for 100% of its mass: e ₂ p3i) - A proportion greater than or equal to 30% by mass and less than or equal to 50% by mass of a composition (C ₃ i) represented by the formula (VII): R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) xH (VII) in which R ₃ i represents the n-hexadecyl radical, G ₃ i represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₃ i) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vlh), (VIl ₂ ), (Vll ₃ ), (VIl ₄ ) and (Vils): Rsi-O- (G ₃ i) iH (Vlh), R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₂ -H (VI l ₂ ), R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₃ -H (VI h), R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₄ -H (VI l ₄ ), R ₃ iO- (G ₃ i) ₅ -H (VI h), in molar proportions of so-called compounds of formulas (Vlh), (VIl ₂ ), (VIl ₃ ), (VII4) and (VII5) respectively equal to a '1, a' ₂ , a ' ₃ , a'4 and a'5, such that the sum a'i + a' ₂ + a ' ₃ + a'4 + a'5 is equal to one, and that the sum a'1 + 2a ' ₂ + 3a' ₃ + 4a'4 + 5a's is equal to x; e ₂ p3 ₂ ) - A proportion greater than or equal to 50% by mass and less than or equal to 70% by mass of a composition (C ₃₂ ) represented by the formula (VIII): R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) _y -H (VIII), in which R ₃₂ represents the n-octadecyl radical, G ₃₂ represents the remainder of a reducing sugar and y represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 5.00, said composition (C ₃₂ ) consisting of a mixture of the compounds of formulas (Vllh), (Vllh), (Vllh), (Vllh) and (Vllh): R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) iH (Vllh) R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) ₂ -H (Vllh) R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) ₃ -H (Vllh) R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) ₄ -H (Vllh) R ₃₂ -O- (G ₃₂ ) 5-H (Vllh) in molar proportions in so-called compounds of formulas (Vllh), (VI11 ₂ ), (VIIh), (Vllh) and (Vllh) respectively equal to b'1, b ' ₂ , b' ₃ , b'4 and b ' 5, such that the sum b'i + b ' ₂ + b' ₃ + b'4 + b'5 is equal to 1, and the sum b'1 + 2b ' ₂ + 3b' ₃ + 4bh + 5b's is equal to y, it being understood that the sum of the mass proportions of the compositions (C31) and (C32) is equal to 100%, and it being understood that the sum of the mass proportions of the compounds (a), (b), (c), ( d) and (e) is equal to 100%. 2. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in claim 1, in which the polymer (P) is chosen from: - A homopolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide); - A copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid, partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, and acrylate of ( 2-hydroxy ethyl), crosslinked with triallylamine and / or methylenebis (acrylamide); - A copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt or ammonium salt, crosslinked by triallylamine and / or methylene-bis (acrylamide); - A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1 propanesulfonic acid (y) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and (2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate) ) (δ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) between 30/70 and 90/10; - A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1 propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or fully salified in the form of sodium salt, and (2-hydroxy ethyl acrylate) ) (δ) in a molar ratio (γ) / (δ) of between 40/60 and 90/10; - A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylic acid (ε) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) greater than or equal to 30/70 and less than or equal to 90/10; and - A crosslinked copolymer of 2-methyl 2 - [(1-oxo 2-propenyl) amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (γ) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt, and acrylic acid (ε) partially or totally salified in the form of sodium salt in a molar ratio (γ) / (ε) greater than or equal to 40/60 and less than or equal to 90/10. 3. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the diluting agent of formula (I) is glycerol. 4. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that in the formulas (III), (IV), (V) and (VI) , the said reducer residues G21, G22, G23, Θ24 are identical and represent the remainder of the glucose. 5. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in the formulas (III), (IV), (V) and (VI) , r, s, t and u respectively, represent independently of one another a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5. 6. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that in formulas (VII) and (VIII), said residues of a reducing sugar G31 and G32 are identical and represent the rest of the glucose. 7. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that in the formulas (VII) and (VIII), x and y respectively, represent a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5. 8. Water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the mass ratio: Δ = mass of the composition (C2P2) / mass of the composition (C ^), is greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10. 9. Use of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) as defined in one of claims 1 to 8, as a thickening and / or emulsifier and / or stabilizer of a topical cosmetic composition. 10. Topical cosmetic composition (F) characterized in that it comprises, as thickening agent, for 100% of its total mass between 0.1% and 10% by mass of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E), as defined in one of claims 1 to 8. 11. Topical pharmaceutical composition (G) characterized in that it comprises as thickening agent, for 100% of its total mass between 0.1% and 10% by mass of the water-in-oil type emulsion (E) such as defined in one of claims 1 to 8.