FR3051672A1 - COSMETIC OR DERMOCASMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF SUREAU AND AN ORGANIC SILLICIUM DERIVATIVE - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an extract of elderberry and at least one organic derivative of silicon, and the use of such a composition to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye.

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an elderberry extract and at least one organic silicon derivative, as well as the use of such a composition for reducing the visibility of a ring, and more broadly for improving the appearance of the eye contour.

The region around the eye, otherwise known as the "periocular zone", is a particularly fragile zone, especially because of a very thin skin (0.1 to 0.5 mm) and a hydrolipidic protective film reduced. Tens of thousands of daily eyelid blinks also produce continuous mechanical stress on the surrounding skin. The infra-orbital region is moreover abundantly irrigated by extremely fine subcutaneous capillary vessels that may become congested. Such singularities also make this region an anatomical site particularly sensitive to external aggressions (solar radiation, pollution, microbial agents, friction) and the effects of aging. Thus and more than any other part of the face, the outline of the eye is a revealer of our general condition, some abuse (lack of sleep, excess alcohol). or even our age. This is why it is generally the object of intensive and specific cosmetic and dermocosmetic care, whether decorative, protective or repairing.

Among the various clinical signs associated with the damage of the area of the eye contour are the formation of crow's feet wrinkles at the outer corner of the eye, a digging of the orbital cavity related to the relaxation of the connective tissues of the area, and especially the appearance of colored rings (or "periorbital hyperchromias" according to the medical term) and bags under the eyes which are considered particularly unsightly because strongly associated with states of fatigue, disorders of the mood and age.

In terms of care of the eye contour, various solutions exist, which can range from the application of simple makeup products (foundation) and other lightening products to unify and whiten the complexion, to medical interventions aesthetic: plasma or hyaluronic acid injections, laser, lower eyelid surgery or blepharoplasty, facelift, deep chemical peel, etc. (Friedmann DP, Clin, Past Surg, 2015, vol.42, pp.33-50) . An alternative is the local application, in day or night version, of cosmetic or dermo-cosmetic gels or creams containing active ingredients, most often aimed at preventing or reabsorbing dark circles and puffiness. These products seek to oppose the multiple causes responsible for the occurrence of dark circles and puffiness.

A focus on such cosmetic and dermocosmetic ingredients stamped "eye contour" shows that plant extracts occupy a privileged place. Thus, by way of example and limited to a recent literature, mention is made of "concealer" and / or "anti-bag" claims for an algae extract (Chavan M. et al., J. Cosmet Sci. 2014, vol.65, pp.103-113), an association of Amazonian herbaceous plants (Alsaad SM et al., J. Drugs Dermatol., 2013, vol.12, pp.124-157), a "coniferous" extract. (patent FR3019042), an extract from the family of mimosaceae (patent FR2980362), a combination of extracts of subtropical plants (patent WO2015018631).

In addition, like an article entitled "Targeting inflammatory pathways to reduce dark circles and puffiness" (Chajra H. et al., SOFW Journal, 2014, vol.140, pp.16-31), many of these assets target the inflammatory origin of these skin conditions, and its vascular consequences. Indeed, colored rings are very often the consequence of a post-inflammatory haemodynamic congestion process (Eberlin S. et al., J. Cosmet Dermatol., 2009, vol.8, pp. 1-27-135). In other words, under the effect of chronic or environmental stress (aging, asthenia, insomnia, pollution, UV, etc.), the capillaries in the infra-ocular area swell with blood. This vasodilatation therefore engenders embrittlement and permeability of their walls and by the same leakage of constituents of blood (red and white blood cells, plasma) in the surrounding tissue, the dermis (extravasation phenomenon). The ring appears in fine transparency under the furrow of the eyelids, with a more or less purplish color depending on the amount of blood pigments infiltrated into the extracellular matrix, mainly hemoglobin and its oxidation products. Similarly, the bags under the eyes are partly the expression of edema linked to a localized micro-inflammatory state, and can also be limited by an anti-inflammatory treatment.

Consequently, taking into account these various findings, the Applicant has endeavored to identify a plant and to design an extract, endowed with anti-inflammatory characteristics and an in vivo efficacy in reducing the visibility of an alteration of the contour. of the eye. At the end of a screening, the choice of the plaintiff stopped on the one hand, on the shrub or shrub "elder", on the other hand and specifically on its flowers. Regarding the design of the resulting extract, the plaintiff favored an approach incorporating the notion of "sustainable development", which is today of great importance in the cosmetics industry.

Indeed, this elderflower extract has been obtained, uncommonly and preferred in the context of the invention, by biorefinery, that is to say by extraction of a plant residue (called "fish"). ) from a prior extraction of odorous substances useful in perfumery. This "eco-responsible" approach optimizes the use of biomass and reduces waste production. In addition, the collaboration with the perfumer supplier of this elderberry, geographically close to the plaintiff, has reduced the transport time and limit the release of greenhouse gases.

A characteristic of interest of this extract is also its richness in polyphenols (nearly 30% of the dry matter), a family of molecules adorned with multiple properties beneficial to health, demonstrated just recently for the prevention or the treatment of cutaneous disorders (Dzialo M. et al., J. Mol Sc, 2016, vol 17, pp.1-41). Such an extract thus has a strong antioxidant capacity.

Another characteristic of interest of this extract, which is decisive for its activity, is the presence of chelating constituents capable of complexing iron (Fe 2+) and preventing it from catalyzing autooxidation processes which damage the tissues. In the contour of the eye, such processes cause the browning of hemoglobin and thus enhance the coloring of the ring, and contribute to the inflammatory mechanism responsible for edema with the expression of a protein. adhesion by cells of the wall of blood capillaries (Koo SW et al., J. Invest Dermatol., 2003, vol 120, pp. 871-879).

It remains that, pursuing an investigation work on its ecoresponsible extract of newly developed elder flowers, the Applicant has discovered, and this is the basis of the present invention, that said extract, when associated with an organic derivative of silicon the restructuring and regenerating effect on the connective tissue of the skin (Levrier M. et al., Senologia, 1977, vol.2, pp.3-9), presented, by a surprising and beneficial effect of synergy: efficiency potentiated, compared to the extract alone, in reducing the intensity of a colored ring, and this. after a clinical evaluation under dermatological control [cf. test 1 below]; a potentiated efficacy, with respect to the extract alone, in the reduction of a pocket under the eyes, and after the same clinical evaluation under dermatological control [cf. test 2 below]; - a potentiated efficacy, compared to the extract alone, in the radiance of the complexion, and this also after a clinical evaluation under dermatological control [cf. test 3 below].

In the state of the art, elderberry, Latin name and botanical genus Sambucus, belongs to the family Caprifoliaceae. There are around twenty species in the world but the most widespread in Europe, especially used in herbal medicine and herbal medicine, is the black elderberry, or "Sambucus nigra L." (Monograph, Alternative Medicine Review, 2005, vol.10, pp.51-55). Formerly known as the "country pharmacy", elderberry is appreciated since ancient times for its healing properties, where all the parts (bark, fruits, flowers and leaves) of the plant are exploited, although the inflorescence, namely a set of flowers grouped in branch, is often favored because of the presence of flavonoids of interest and other derivatives of the hydroxycinnamic acid (Ghedira K., Phytotherapy, 2011, vol.9, pp.244-248; Lopez-Garcia J. et al., Molecules, 2013, vol.18, pp.13435-13445). Concerning the elder flower, the literature reports its potential for inflammation with the existence of an aqueous extract capable of inhibiting the pro-inflammatory activity of certain (periodontal) pathogens (Harokopatis E. et al., J. Periodontol., 2006, vol.77, pp.271-279). When used in cosmetics, the same aqueous extract of elder flowers is used as the active substance for absorbing ultraviolet light in sunscreen products (patent FR2628970). It is also noted an antioxidant composition intended to prevent or inhibit the effects induced by free radicals on the skin, based in particular on an extract of elderflower (patent WO03086329).

Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a composition, for cosmetic or dermocosmetic use, in particular intended for modifications affecting the contour of the eye, characterized in that it comprises, in association with any physiologically adjuvant compatible with the skin, as the main active ingredient, a synergistic combination of an elder flower extract and at least one organic silicon derivative.

The term "elderflower extract" according to the invention means: an extract obtained from elderberry according to all the species of the genus Sambucus, preferably the species "Sambucus nigra L." (black elderberry), "Sambucus canadensis" and "Sambucus ebulus L.", and especially the species "Sambucus nigra L." (black elderberry); an extract obtained from the inflorescence of the directly milled elderberry, or from solid waste (spent waste) recovered after exhaustion of the lipophilic fraction present in the flowers of the plant, preferably an ecoresponsible extract obtained from a lot of elderflower; an extract obtained by extraction with one or more solvents chosen from hydroglycolic or aqueous-alcoholic solvents. Among the hydroglycolic extracts, an extraction solvent of the water / propanediol or water / butanediol or water / glycerol type is preferred, particularly the water / propylene glycol mixture. Among the hydroalcoholic extracts, an extraction solvent of the water / methanol or water / ethanol or water / propanol type is preferred, particularly the water / ethanol mixture; an extract characterized by a mass content of total polyphenols of between 0.5 and 5%, preferably between 1 and 3%, with in particular derivatives of the flavonoid and phenylpropanoid type, such as respectively rutin and chlorogenic acid.

The term "organic silicon derivative" according to the invention means: a compound defined by the following general formula (I):

Wherein R is a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl, X = 1 or 2, said compound of general formula (I) being stabilized, with the formation of non-covalent bonds and under complex form, by one or more entities selected from a sugar or polysaccharide, carboxylic acid, amino acid or amino acid derivative, polypeptide or protein, glycoprotein, glycosaminoglycan, alcohol, xanthine. Thus, by way of nonlimiting example of such a stabilizing entity, the sugar or the polysaccharide is polymannuronic acid, pectin, lactose, trehalose, rhamnose, and / or their salts, the carboxylic acid is theophylline acetic acid, ascorbic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and / or their salts, the amino acid or an amino acid derivative is arginine, serine, threonine, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and / or their salts, the polypeptide or the protein is collagen or hydrolyzate of collagen, elastin or elastin hydrolyzate, a vegetable protein such as a wheat protein or a hydrolyzate of vegetable proteins such as a hydrolyzate of wheat proteins, the glycosaminoglycan is hyaluronic acid and / or its salts, the alcohol is oleic acid, xanthine is caffeine, 1'acéfylline. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing entity is chosen from polymannuronic acid and / or its salts and particularly its sodium salts, ascorbic acid and / or its salts and particularly its sodium salts, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and particularly its sodium salts, theophylline acetic acid; a compound of general formula (I) which is in the form of monomers, dimers or trimers, essentially monomers or dimers, or of a mixture of monomers, dimers and trimers, essentially of a mixture of monomers and dimers, with a state in solution that can be represented by the following foil (II): [(TO) + (Tl) + (T2)] (II) in which: TO, T1 and T2 respectively have the formulas:

(TO) (T1) (T2) where:. R is as defined above for the compounds (I), X represents a hydroxyl group or a radical R as defined above for the compounds (I), and the molar distribution of TO (monomer), T1 (dimer) and T2 (trimer) is such that 50% <TO <90%, 10% <Tl <40% and 0% <T2 <15%; a compound of general formula (I) or (II) in which the term "C1-C4 alkyl group" means a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched. Such a group is especially a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, 1-methylethyl, 1-methylpropyl and 2-methylpropyl group, in particular a methyl or ethyl group.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the organic silicon derivative of formula (I) is chosen from monomethylsilanetriol or dimethylsilanediol, preferentially monomethylsilanetriol. It is particularly preferred monomethylsilanetriol stabilized with polymannuronic acid and / or its salts.

Advantageously, the amount of the elder extract in the above composition is between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 3% by weight.

Advantageously, the amount of stabilized silicon organic derivative (complex in dilute solution) in the above composition is between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention are suitable for topical administration to the skin, presented in all the forms normally used for such administration. As an indication and not limitation, the compositions may be in the form of suspensions, lotions, creams, gels, powders and multiple emulsions that may be optionally microemulsions or nanoemulsions, etc.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, as physiologically acceptable adjuvant, at least one adjuvant known to those skilled in the art and acceptable in the cosmetic or dermocosmetic fields, chosen from oils, waxes, silicone elastomers, surfactants, co-polymers and the like. -surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents, humectants, emollients, organic or inorganic sunscreens, light stabilizers, preservatives with the exception of preserving aldehyde preservatives, dyes, mattifying agents, tensing agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, etc., and mixtures thereof.

The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional active agents, the person skilled in the art ensuring, however, that any optional active additional compounds, as well as their proportions, are chosen in such a way that the advantageous properties recognized by the compositions according to the invention are not altered. These additional active agents may be chosen, without this list being limiting, among the deglycating agents, the agents stimulating the synthesis of collagen or elastin or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans or proteoglycans or preventing their formation. cell proliferation agents, depigmenting or propigmenting agents, antioxidants or anti-radical or anti-pollution agents, moisturizing agents, agents stimulating lipolysis, draining or detoxifying agents, anti-inflammatory agents, penetration enhancers, desquamating agents, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, astringent agents, blood or lymphatic microcirculation agents, etc., and mixtures thereof. By way of illustration, two examples of cosmetic or dermocosmetic formulation are mentioned below;

Formula A (cream) (topical application: colored anti-ring)

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (Elderflower Extract) 1.5% Methylsilanetriol polymannuronate 5%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 7%

Isobutyl myristate 3%

Cetyl palmitate 7%

Ethylene glycol monostearate 5%

Sorbitan Laurate 2%

Polysorbate 20 2%

Carbomer (acrylate / acrylamide copolymer & mineral oil) 0.3%

Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Water qs 100%

Formula B (gel) (topical application: anti-pocket)

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (elderflower extract) 2%

Dimethylsilanediol Hyaluronate 4%

Carbomer (acrylate / acrylamide copolymer & mineral oil) 1.5%

Sodium benzoate 0.2%

Sorbic acid 1% 1,3-butanediol 10%

Glycerin 5%

Soda 0.13%

Phenoxyethanol 0.9%

Water qs 100%

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to improve the appearance of the contour of the eye, and preferentially to reduce the visibility of a colored ring or a pocket under the eyes.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above for combating any cutaneous disorder resulting from the same micro-inflammatory state, preferentially inflammation (Salminen A-et al., Aging, 2012, vol.4, pp.166-175) androgenetic alopecia (Mahé YF et al., J. Dermatol Int., 2000, vol.39, pp. 576-584), rosacea (Buhl, T., J. Invest.

Dermatol., 2015, vol.135, pp. 2199-2208), atopic dermatitis.

Finally, a last subject of the invention relates to a method of non-therapeutic cosmetic care of the contour of the eye, which comprises the application to said cutaneous region, in an effective amount, of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition as defined above. above to reduce the visibility of clinical signs affecting the eye contour.

Preferably in the above uses and method, there is particularly associated an extract of elderflower, advantageously obtained from a solid residual by-product after extraction of lipophilic odorous substances (fortifying), with at least one of monomethylsilanetriol stabilized with polymannuronic acid and / or its salts. The invention is illustrated below, purely by way of indication, by the following tests mentioned above in the description (tests 1 to 3).

Test 1: highlighting the concealer effect The study was performed on 10 volunteers aged 30 to 50 years, single-blind, and against a placebo.

A composition according to the invention comprising an elder flower extract and methylsilanetriol polymannuronate was applied twice daily for 28 days to the hemisphere of the eye contour of a subject having colored rings, vascular origin (the other hemi-face receiving placebo). At the end of the 28 days (D28), it was determined, under the control of a dermatologist expert, a clinical score of the affected eye treated with the composition according to the invention.

The results are shown in Table 1 below, in comparison with the extract alone.

Table 1

The results demonstrate, compared to the sole extract of elder flowers, the benefit provided by the combination of the same extract and at least one organic derivative of silicon. It is particularly emphasized, in the case of the composition according to the invention, a significant decrease in the intensity of rings with an efficiency more than doubled, thus justifying an existing synergy between the two components.

Test 2: highlighting the anti-pouch effect

The same clinical study as the test 1 was performed on 10 other volunteers aged 30 to 50 years, but having bags under the eyes of vascular origin, single blind, and against a placebo.

After the same treatment, the following results are obtained in Table 2 below, in comparison with the extract alone.

Table 2

The results clearly show a better benefit provided by the combination of an elderflower extract and at least one organic silicon derivative, in comparison with the same extract alone, especially in the percentage of improved volunteers where all volunteers is concerned.

Test 3: highlighting the effect on the radiance of the complexion of the skin

The same clinical study as the test 1 was performed on 10 other volunteers aged 30 to 50, but having a dull and tired skin color.

After the same treatment, the following results are obtained presented in Table 3 below, in comparison with the extract alone.

Table 3

The results clearly show a better benefit provided by the synergistic combination of an extract of elderberry flowers and of at least one organic silicon derivative, in comparison with the same extract alone, notably in terms of the percentage of improvement of the the radiance of the complexion of the skin than the percentage of volunteers improved.

Claims (17)

1. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in combination with any physiologically compatible adjuvant with the skin, as main active ingredient, an extract of elder flowers and at least one organic derivative of silicimn. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract is obtained from the species Sambucus nigra L., Sambucus canadensis and Sambucus ebulus L,, 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said extract is obtained from an elderflower seed. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said extract contains a mass content of between 0.5 and 5% of total polyphenols. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that said total polyphenols are derivatives of flavonoid and phenylpropanoid type. 6. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said organic silicon derivative is a compound defined by the following general formula (I): RxSi (OH) 4-x (I) in which: R is a (Ci-C4) ) alkyl, X = 1 or 2, said compound of general formula (I) being stabilized, with the formation of non-covalent bonds, by one or more entities selected from a sugar or a polysaccharide, a carboxylic acid, an amino acid or a amino acid derivative, a polypeptide or a protein, a glycoprotein, a glycosaminoglycan, an alcohol, a xanthine. 7. Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that the said stabilizing entity is chosen from polymannuronic acid, pectin, lactose, trehalose, rhamnose, theophylline acetic acid, ascorbic acid and lactic acid. , salicylic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, arginine, serine, threonine, hydroxyproline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, collagen or hydrolyzate of collagen, elastin or a hydrolyzate elastin, a vegetable protein or a hydrolyzate of vegetable proteins, hyaluronic acid, oleic acid, caffeine, acefylline. 8. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that said compound of general formula (I) is chosen from monomethylsilanetriol or dimethylsilanediol. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that said compound of general formula (I) is monomethylsilanetriol. 10. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said organic silicon derivative is monomethylsilanetriol stabilized with polymannuronic acid. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the amount of said elder extract is between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the amount of said organic silicon derivative is between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises one or more active agents selected from the deglycating agents, the agents stimulating the synthesis of collagen or elastin or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans or proteoglycans or preventing their degradation, agents increasing cell proliferation, depigmenting or pro-pigmenting agents, antioxidants or anti-radical or anti-pollution agents, moisturizing agents, agents stimulating lipolysis , draining or detoxifying agents, anti-inflammatory agents, penetration enhancers, desquamating agents, soothing and / or anti-irritant agents, astringent agents, blood or lymphatic microcirculation agents, and mixtures thereof. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for its use to improve the appearance of the eye contour. 15. Composition for use according to claim 14 for reducing the visibility of a colored ring. 16. Composition for use according to claim 14 for reducing the visibility of a pouch under the eyes. 17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for its use to fight against inflammation, androgenetic alopecia, rosacea, atopic dermatitis.