FR3046352A1

FR3046352A1 - COSMETIC USE OF A EUTECTIC SOLVENT TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN

Info

Publication number: FR3046352A1
Application number: FR1650055A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Christian Lubrano; Georges-Olivier Maillet; Celine Laperdrix
Original assignee: Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Current assignee: Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Priority date: 2016-01-05
Filing date: 2016-01-05
Publication date: 2017-07-07
Anticipated expiration: 2036-01-05
Also published as: FR3046352B1

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à l'utilisation cosmétique d'un solvant eutectique composé de molécules d'origine végétale ou naturelle en tant qu'agent renforçant la fonction barrière de l'épiderme, pour améliorer l'éclat de la peau, et/ou lisser la surface de la peau, et/ou adoucir la peau, et/ou améliorer le teint de la peau. La présente invention se rapporte également à l'utilisation cosmétique d'une composition cosmétique comprenant un solvant eutectique et au moins un principe actif choisi parmi la mangiférine, la mangoustine, la rutine, l'apigénine, l'esculine, le mannitol, la baïcaléine, l'acétate de lupéol, les coumarines, les polyols, les triterpènes, les saponines, les caroténoïdes, les polyphénols ou l'un de leurs mélanges, ou des extraits de plante riche en ces molécules tels qu'un extrait de manne de frêne (fraxinus ornus) riche en mannitol, un extrait de gomme chicle (Manilkara zapota) riche en acétate de lupéol, un extrait de scutellaire (Scutellaria baïcalensis) riche en baïcaléine ou un extrait de grains de café vert riche en acides chlorogéniques pour améliorer l'éclat de la peau, et/ou lisser la surface de la peau, et/ou adoucir la peau, et/ou améliorer le teint de la peau. La présente invention se rapporte par ailleurs à une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant de 1 à 40% en poids, par rapport au poids totale de ladite composition cosmétique, d'au moins un solvant eutectique et de la mangiférine, la valeur de 40% étant exclue, ainsi qu'à un dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, comprenant une composition selon l'invention et à un procédé de soin cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau, comprenant une application sur la peau d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention.The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin as an agent reinforcing the barrier function of the epidermis, to improve the radiance of the skin, and / or smooth the surface of the skin, and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the complexion of the skin. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising a eutectic solvent and at least one active ingredient selected from mangiferin, mangustine, rutin, apigenin, esculin, mannitol, baaleinin , lupeol acetate, coumarins, polyols, triterpenes, saponins, carotenoids, polyphenols or a mixture thereof, or plant extracts rich in these molecules such as an ash manna extract (fraxinus ornus) rich in mannitol, an extract of chicle gum (Manilkara zapota) rich in lupeol acetate, a scutellar extract (Scutellaria baïcalensis) rich in bayaleine or an extract of green coffee beans rich in chlorogenic acids to improve the shine the skin, and / or smooth the surface of the skin, and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the skin tone. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition, of at least one eutectic solvent and mangiferin, the value of 40% being excluded, as well as a device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, comprising a composition according to the invention and a process cosmetic treatment for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising an application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Description

COSMETIC USE OF A EUTECTIC SOLVENT TO IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF THE SKIN

DESCRIPTION

Technical area

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin, as well as to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one eutectic solvent and a cosmetic care pork paste to improve the appearance skin.

The present invention finds applications in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly cutaneous cosmetics.

In the description below, references in brackets ([]) refer to the list of references at the end of the text.

Description of the invention

The skin is a vital organ in its own right that consists of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.

The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis. This multilayered (Malpighian) and keratinizing epithelium, the outermost part of which is the stratum corneum, consists of different cells associated with many protective barrier functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes which, by their proliferation / differentiation processes, result in the formation of the horny layer known for its appearance and its hydrophobic, compact and tight properties. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin and therefore the human body with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, waterborne and bacteriological attacks. The major role of the epidermis is therefore to provide the skin, via differentiation and stratum corneum, a first line of protection against aggression, including physical, chemical, thermal, water and bacteriological.

In the intermediate position, the dermis is also a connective tissue mainly invested with fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its qualities of compressibility and elasticity known. Within the conjunctive framework, other cells and structures are inserted, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages (hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands). ) that originate in the deep dermis. The hypodermis, located in depth and consisting for the most part of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as for example cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.

Keratinocyte differentiation is an oriented maturation of epidermal keratinocytes into corneocytes (keratinocytes of the stratum corneum) during which cells change size, morphology, biochemical composition (enrichment of fatty molecules), membrane nature and biological activity. Corneocytes are dead anucleated keratinocytes, which pile up on the surface of the skin, before desquamating. They thus form a compact and highly hydrophobic layer through which the penetration of exogenous agents or water losses are not normally possible. This process of differentiation is also accompanied by modifications of the components and cellular structures such as interkeratinocyte junctions which are increasingly represented as a function of differentiation.

Intercellular junctions are characteristic areas of epithelial cell membranes that allow strong cell adhesion to one another. They represent areas of interaction of the plasma membrane with the cytoskeleton and, in fact, areas of intercellular communication. They can be subdivided into three categories: anchor junctions, communicating junctions and impervious junctions.

Anchorage junctions are structures that mechanically join the cells together with more or less complex intracytoplasmic arrangements. These are the intermediate junctions / adherent junctions (zonula adherens) directly responsible for the maintenance of the cellular form and directly involved in the communication since at the origin of numerous cellular signals; and desmosomes and hemidesmosomes that provide strong and durable adhesion by acting as a "snap" (predominant junctions in the skin and the strongest). Participating directly in the barrier function of the epidermis, interkeratinocyte junctions are involved in the regulation of skin hydration and in the protection thereof. Water / hydration of living organisms is essential. It is also for the good general and cellular functioning of all organs. In the skin, water is 80% represented in the dermis, and in the epidermis there is a decreasing gradient from the basal layer to the stratum corneum of 70 to 10%. In depth, the water (from the diet) is conveyed via the blood capillaries irrigating the dermis. It diffuses into the integument and is normally retained in the epidermis thanks to the differentiation and the tightness of the most differentiated layers, thus regulating the insensible loss of water (PIE), hence the importance of good keratinocyte differentiation. .

The barrier function of the epidermis is essential. It tends to deteriorate with age or in certain transient situations, causing defects of desquamation, scars, dry and inhomogeneous appearance, alteration of complexion and color. Reinforcing it is therefore a protective process and a process that promotes hydration. This mechanism gives rise to cosmetic benefits of protection, hydration, nutrition, smoothing, softness, radiance, and even skin tone, appearance and color of the skin.

The dermal connective tissue plays an essential role in the support and maintenance of the cutaneous architecture. Changes in texture and composition are largely responsible for skin changes that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis that underlies it. It is indeed the dermal tissue that gives the skin its biomechanical qualities (compressibility, extensibility, stretchability, firmness in particular). More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes significant age-related disorders, through the aging of its cells and its material. As they age, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less proliferative. They mostly do not synthesize the constituent elements of the matrix. In addition, these constitutive macromolecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and to fragment. Their networks disorganize and reorient themselves parallel to the dermal-epidermal junction, especially under the action of matrix protein degrading enzymes, MMPs (Matrix Metallo Proteases), also called collagenases or elastases. With age, syntheses of these macromolecules are no longer provided by fibroblasts. These phenomena of deterioration of the dermal tissue cause on the surface a lack of organization of the epidermis and in a more visible and direct way, a loss of firmness that may lead to skin ptosis and / or the formation of wrinkles . By its external position, the skin is a particular organ that is exposed to environmental stresses, especially UV radiation, which contribute to and accelerate the appearance of the aforementioned phenomena (in particular by triggering the induction of degradation enzymes). These stresses cause various reactions, including inflammatory, which contribute to the premature aging of the skin: lack of firmness, ptosis, wrinkles in particular.

Regarding the barrier function and the keratinocyte differentiation, the most common cosmetic solution is physical: it is to strengthen the surface barrier by a lipidic contribution (hydrophobic to limit the PIE). But it is transient and inefficient because it does not directly influence the natural biological process of epidermal differentiation. Molecules of the family retinoids directly influence this process but also causing an inflammatory reaction. Moreover, these molecules are not of natural origin.

Regarding the natural hydration and nutrition, the most common cosmetic solution is physical: the supply of water and fat via emulsions allows an immediate effect but only transient and lacking sustainable efficiency because it does not influence directly the biological process of water retention in tissue or tissue nutrition.

Regarding the connective tissue, a common cosmetic solution consists in incorporating fragments or peptides that are supposed to take place and functions in the dermis. This solution allows an immediate effect thanks to the hygroscopic properties but this effect is transient and lacks lasting efficiency because it does not directly influence the biological process of synthesis of the dermal matrix or regeneration of its cells.

There remains a real need to find new compositions and / or compounds to effectively ensure a protective, moisturizing and / or anti-aging in the cells of the skin, its annexes and mucous membranes. In particular, there is a real need to find natural compounds that prevent, that is, inhibit or, at the very least, delay or treat the effects of aging of skin structures and cells. its annexes and mucous membranes.

Description of the invention

The present invention precisely aims to meet these many needs by providing a eutectic solvent active from a cosmetic point of view.

The Applicant is the first to have demonstrated, surprisingly, that a certain range of eutectic solvent has a cosmetic efficacy as such, that is to say even when it is not associated with an active ingredient. cosmetic.

The Applicant is thus the first to have developed a range of formulation bases having a biological action on the nutrition and hydration of the skin. The Applicant has in fact surprisingly demonstrated that the eutectic solvents described in the invention make it possible to improve the appearance of the skin because they have at least one of the following effects: to reinforce and / or to improve the appearance of the skin; protective barrier function of the epidermis, epidermal differentiation, keratinocyte differentiation, epidermal hydration, epidermal nutrition, cell renewal, protection of the dermal matrix, protective lipid formation epidermis and proteins involved in epidermal metabolism, and fibroblast turnover. Advantageously, the eutectic solvent makes it possible to provide, in particular, an effect on the surface of the skin, radiance, smoothing, softness, improvement of the complexion, firmness, fight against wrinkles and improvement of the skin. general appearance of the skin.

In addition, the Applicant has surprisingly demonstrated that these effects were amplified by the presence of at least one solubilized active ingredient in a formulation base described in the context of the invention, in particular by mangiferin.

Thus, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin, to improve the radiance of the skin, and / or to smooth the surface of the skin, and / or to soften skin, and / or improve the skin's complexion.

More particularly, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin as an agent reinforcing the barrier function of the epidermis, to improve the brightness of the skin, and / or smooth the surface of the skin, and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the skin tone.

A eutectic solvent is defined as a solvent associating molecules in relative amounts such that the melting point of the mixture is lower than that of isolated pure compounds. This is explained by the formation of strong hydrogen bonds between the molecules, ideally configured in certain relative proportions of the components.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "molecule of plant origin" is intended to mean any molecule extracted directly from the plant by a solvent, in particular of natural origin, or by physical process, in particular approved by the Ecocert reference system (May version 2). 2012, implemented as of 1 July 2012, [1]), or a plant molecule chemically modified only using reactions approved by the Ecocert standard (Version 2 of May 2012, implemented on 1 July 2012, [ 1]). The plant can come from nature and thus be in the wild, or can come from a crop. The plant can be any part of a plant, especially the underground parts or the aerial parts of a plant. It can be a leaf, a fruit, a stem or a root.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "molecule of natural origin" is intended to mean any molecule of animal, mineral or vegetable origin, in particular obtained by a method approved according to the Ecocert reference (Version 2 of May 2012, implemented at July 1, 2012, [1]). It may be for example water.

Such molecules, of plant or natural origin, as well as processes for obtaining these molecules, are for example described in the document FR3017292 ([2]). For example, a process for preparing a eutectic solvent, which may constitute a base for a cosmetic formulation, may comprise the following steps: (i) mixing a eutectic solvent as defined herein and an active ingredient until to obtain a homogeneous dispersion, (ii) cooling the homogeneous dispersion obtained in step (i) until obtaining a balm texture, as described in the document FR3017292 ([2]).

According to the invention, said eutectic solvent may comprise at least one element chosen from a simple carbohydrate, an organic acid, a polyol, and a nitrogen compound. Advantageously, the eutectic solvent comprises a simple carbohydrate, an organic acid and a nitrogen compound. In another embodiment, the eutectic solvent is a single carbohydrate, an organic acid, and a nitrogen compound; in other words, he understands only these compounds.

The simple carbohydrate may be chosen for example from hexoses, for example sucrose, fructose, maltose, mannose and glucose, or a mixture of two or three of these carbohydrates.

According to the invention, said organic acid may be an organic acid that can be used in cosmetics, for example chosen from citric acid, malic acid, salicylic acid, succinic acid, or a mixture of these acids.

According to the invention, said nitrogenous compound may for example be a quaternary ammonium. It may be betaine, for example glycine betaine or trigonelline, or an amino acid such as proline.

According to the invention, the eutectic solvent may also comprise a small amount of water. The small amount of water is a quantity of water sufficient to reduce the viscosity of the cosmetic formulation base. The water content may be in particular between 5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the eutectic solvent, for example 10%, or 15%, or 20%. The water may advantageously be constitutive water of plant origin. The plant constitutive water, also called "cellular water of the plant" or "water of constitution", is a water which can for example be obtained by evaporation and condensation from a plant, for example a fruit or a vegetable. The vegetable constitutive water can be obtained for example as described in document FR2721518 ([3]). Water is in perpetual movement in the plant. It distributes the nutrients and minerals essential for the growth of the plant and regulates the temperature. Examples of plant constitutive water that can be used are fruit such as apple, lemon, strawberry or pear.

According to the invention, the eutectic solvent may also comprise a polyol, such as glycerol, sorbitol, malitol, xylitol or a plant-derived glycol such as zemea® of the company (Dupont Tate & Lyle Bio Products , LLC.).

According to the invention, the eutectic solvent may for example be a mixture of glycerine, betaine and water, for example in molar proportions 2/1/1, corresponding to mass proportions of 58/36/6 in percentages respectively, or a mixture of citric acid, betaine and water, for example in molar proportions 1/1/2 respectively, this corresponding to mass proportions of the order of 56/34/10 in weight percent. The cosmetic use of eutectic solvent makes it possible to increase the naturalness of the cosmetic compositions and the concentration of active principles, preferably of vegetable origin, in simple form and moreover without having to add preservatives.

Another advantage of the present invention is in particular the possibility of using a very limited number of materials to manufacture a cosmetic product, which leads to the possibility of a final formula that is healthy and free of products that are discussed at the regulatory level.

According to the invention, the eutectic solvent can be used either as a solubilizing formulation base at least one active ingredient in a cosmetic composition, as described in document FR3017292 ([2]), or as a cosmetic composition as such.

The term "having a cosmetic efficacy" means any biological efficacy for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, on the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the external organs, the teeth and external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic efficacy allows, exclusively or mainly, to protect, perfume, maintain in good condition, change their appearance or correct the superficial defects.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reinforcing the skin barrier function" is intended to mean the restoration or maintenance of a normal level of exchanges in / out (water loss) and out / in (penetration of water). hydrophilic agents or microorganisms) of the skin. Advantageously, the strengthening of the barrier function of the skin makes it possible to protect the dermal matrix, and thus to prevent degradation and / or to improve the appearance of the skin. The improvement of the barrier function of the skin may be due to the stimulation of the synthesis of the proteins involved in epidermal and / or keratinocyte differentiation, and / or to the stimulation of inter-keratinocyte junctions and / or to the increase of the expression of lipids in the epidermis by the use of the eutectic solvent.

The term "protection of the dermal matrix", as used herein, the physical and biological protection of the constituent fibers of the dermis giving the skin its biomechanical qualities (collagen, elastin, this list not being limiting).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improve the appearance of the skin" is understood to mean any effect that makes it possible to obtain an advantage over the appearance of the skin with respect to the appearance of the skin before using the eutectic solvate according to the invention. By way of example, the improvement in the appearance of the skin may be an improvement of at least one characteristic of the skin surface chosen from brightness, smoothness, softness and homogenization of the color. and complexion, and / or prevention of the degradation of at least one of these characteristics.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the brightness of the skin" is intended to mean obtaining a brighter skin. This effect can be observed qualitatively, for example visually, or quantitatively, for example by chromometric studies or the L * a * b * components are measured.

The term "smooth skin surface" in the sense of the present invention, the qualitative and quantitative reduction of microreliefs of the skin, including their depth. It may be for example the decrease in the depth of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "softening the skin" is intended to mean obtaining a more silky effect of the skin to the touch after use of the mangiferin, and / or a reduction in the roughness effect of the skin. skin to the touch.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the skin tone" is intended to mean obtaining a less gray and / or less dull and / or less scruffy complexion after using mangiferin on the skin.

According to the present invention, the eutectic solvent may be further used as an agent for improving epidermal hydration and / or epidermal nutrition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the hydration of the epidermis" is intended to obtain a quantitative increase in water and / or a prevention of the reduction of water within the body. epidermis through the use of mangiferin. It can come from the retention and / or fixation of water molecules in the living epidermis, for example by a reinforcement of the barrier function at the surface which thus limits the insensible loss of water. Advantageously, it improves the suppleness and elasticity of the skin. The use of the eutectic solvent according to the invention can prevent the degradation and / or improve the hydration of the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the nutrition of the epidermis" is intended to mean the reinforcement, qualitative or quantitative, of "fat" and lipidic structures, in particular ceramides and phospholipids, which are naturally synthesized by keratinocytes at the time of terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. Advantageously, this has the effect of reinforcing the lipophilic and hydrophobic barrier at the surface.

According to the present invention, the eutectic solvent may be further used as an activating agent for the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes and / or cell junctions between keratinocytes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "activator of keratinocyte differentiation" is understood to mean obtaining an improvement in cell turnover and / or a qualitative improvement in the oriented maturation of epidermal keratinocytes into corneocytes, giving rise to to epidermal differentiation, which is therefore also activated.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "epidermal differentiation activator" is intended to mean obtaining an improvement and / or an acceleration, qualitative or quantitative, of the oriented maturation of epidermal keratinocytes into corneocytes. It may comprise, in this context, an improvement in the change in cell size, and / or the change in cell morphology, and / or the change in biochemical composition, in particular an enrichment in fatty molecules, and / or a change of membrane nature, and / or a change in biological activity of epidermal cells such as keratinocytes and / or a quantitative increase in interkeratinocyte junctions. Without wishing to be bound by the explanation of a mechanism of action, it seems that the activation of the epidermal differentiation is at the origin of the effects of improvement of the brightness of the skin, of smoothing the surface of the skin. skin, softening the skin and improving the complexion of the skin. Indeed, the activation of the epidermal differentiation allows a strengthening of the barrier function of the skin, and therefore a better retention of water and nutrients in the epidermis, resulting in a decrease in the dehydration of the skin and / or an increase in hydration, and an improvement in the nutrition of the skin. Advantageously, these effects on the epidermis are at the origin of the cosmetic effects of the eutectic solvent on the appearance of the skin. The use of the eutectic solvent according to the invention can prevent the degradation and / or improve the protection of the skin, because of the reinforcement of the epidermic differentiation, which is, directly or indirectly, related to the barrier function of the epidermis .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stimulation of interkeratinocyte junctions" is intended to mean the over-expression of the proteins involved directly or indirectly in the protein establishment of the intercellular junctions between the keratinocytes. It may be, for example desmocollines, desmogleins, envoplakines, periplakines, connexins or claudines, this list not being limiting. The inventors have in particular shown the overexpression of the genes coding for the cadherins (Desmoglein2 and Desmocollin2) involved in the intercellular junctions, following the use of the eutectic solvent.

According to the present invention, the eutectic solvent can be further used as an agent stimulating the synthesis of proteins involved in epidermal differentiation.

The term "stimulate the synthesis of the proteins involved in epidermal differentiation", within the meaning of the present invention, the increase in the production, by the epidermal cells, of proteins allowing, directly or indirectly, the cells of the epidermis as keratinocytes, to change size and / or morphology and / or biochemical composition and / or membrane nature and / or biological activity in the context of epidermal differentiation / keratinocyte. These proteins may be transglutaminase, keratin 10, filaggrin, this list not being limiting.

According to the present invention, the eutectic solvent may be further used as an agent for increasing the lipid expression of the epidermis.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "increase in the expression of lipids in the epidermis" is understood to mean the stimulation of the neosynthesis of several categories of lipids, including ceramides / cerebrosides, which are particularly present in the upper layers of the skin. the epidermis, ensuring cellular cohesion, permeability and nutrition.

According to the present invention, the eutectic solvent may be further used as an agent for the renewal of epidermal skin cells, and in particular dermal fibroblasts.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cell renewal" is understood to mean the metabolic stimulation of epidermal or dermal skin cells, allowing better degradation and / or evacuation of senescent cells and an accelerated appearance of new cells. . This renewal is directly or indirectly linked or targets the intrinsic or extrinsic aging of the skin.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of a cosmetic composition comprising a eutectic solvent and at least one active ingredient chosen from mangiferin, mangustine, rutin, apigenin, esculin, mannitol, baaleine, lupeol acetate, coumarins, polyols, triterpenes, saponins, carotenoids, polyphenols or a mixture thereof, or plant extracts rich in these molecules such as a manna extract of ash (fraxinus ornus) rich in mannitol, an extract of chicle gum (Manilkara zapota) rich in lupeol acetate, a scutellar extract (Scutellaria baïcalensis) rich in bayaleine or an extract of green coffee beans rich in chlorogenic acids to improve the radiance of the skin, and / or smooth the surface of the skin, and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the complexion of the skin.We mean by "rich in a compound", within the meaning of this invention, a concentration in this composition Se, by weight relative to the total weight of the extract, of at least 50%, for example between 50% and 99%, or between 50 and 90%, or between 50 and 80%, or between 50 and 70% %, or between 50 and 60%.

Preferably, the at least one active ingredient is mangiferin. The Applicant has surprisingly demonstrated that a eutectic solvent of vegetable or natural origin has improved cosmetic efficacy and / or provides an additional and / or synergistic effect to the active principle (s) it contains. , including mangiferin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "additional effect" means any additional effect, from a qualitative and / or quantitative point of view, reinforcing the effect (s) of the active principle (s). (s).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synergistic effect" means any effect greater than or equal to the addition of the effects of the active principle (s).

The term "active ingredient" means any material, including plant, natural or natural origin, providing cosmetic effectiveness.

The active ingredient may for example be solubilized in a eutectic solvent described in the present invention, as described in document FR3017292 ([2]).

The cosmetic composition advantageously has a balm-like texture. Indeed, in certain proportions close to the solubility limit, the active ingredient forms with the solvent an unexpected structure of the balm type. This solubility limit depends on the active ingredient and the eutectic solvent, and can be determined by standard techniques of the art. For example, one skilled in the art can determine the solubility limit visually, from the moment the active ingredient recrystallizes in the solvent. It preferably has a viscosity of between 40000 mPa.s at 80000 mPa.s, for example between 50000 mPa.s at 70000 mPa.s, for example a viscosity of 50000 mPa.s, 60000 mPa.s or 70000 mPa. s.

The composition of the present invention has the advantage of being directly applicable to the skin since it contains at least one eutectic solvent according to the present invention.

The composition described in the present invention may, for example, comprise between 1 and 50% by weight of eutectic solvent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, for example from 1 to 40%, or from 5 to 40%, or from 10 to 30%, or 15 to 25%.

According to the invention, the weight percentage of the active ingredient, in particular of mangiferin, in the cosmetic composition may be between 0.01 and 5% relative to the total weight of the eutectic solvent. For example, the weight percentage of the active ingredient may be from 0.05 to 5%, or from 0.1 to 5%, or from 0.5 to 4%, or from 1 to 3%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mangiferin" is intended to mean the mangiferin molecule, also called aphlolol, of formula (I):

Formula 1

It is a C-glucoside of hydroxy tetra 1,3,5,7 xanthone. Discovered initially in the mango tree, its identity with the aphloïol, extract of Aphloia theiformis (flacourtiaceae), was validated in 1964 (Paris R. and Etcheparne S.: "About the structure of the aphloiol: kinship of this xanthone with mangiferin >>, CR Ac, Soi, Paris, 258, 1964, pp. 5277-5279 ([4])). This xanthone is also present in many plant species, but is most concentrated in these two species (Hostettman K. Review xanthone glycosides, Phytochemistry 16.7, 1977, 821-829 ([5])).

The purified mangiferin molecule is in the form of a yellow powder with no odor or taste. It is very slightly soluble in cold water, more in hot water and alcohol, as well as alkaline liquids. The mangiferin extract may be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example with polar solvents, chosen in particular from ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane- 1,3-diol, glycerin, and a mixture of these solvents. The mixtures of these solvents can be made in all possible proportions, according to the knowledge of those skilled in the art. The extraction process may be any process known to those skilled in the art, for example as described in document FR2876906 ([6]).

The mangiferin may be in the form of a plant extract rich in mangiferin, for example an extract whose mangiferin content is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry matter of the extract.

Mangiferine can be prepared from a plant comprising mangiferin or purified from a plant extract comprising mangiferin.

The plant comprising mangiferin may be selected from Aphloia theiformis and Mangifera indica.

A plant extract rich in mangiferin can be an extract of leaves.

In the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to mean any cosmetic composition, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair systems and capillaries, external organs, teeth and external mucosa.

Advantageously, a cosmetic composition allows, exclusively or mainly to protect them, maintain in good condition, change their appearance or correct the superficial defects.

As used herein, the term "dermatological composition" is intended to mean any composition for dermatological purposes, ie a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes and integuments, nails , hair, hairs.

In the context of the invention, the cosmetic use means a use exclusively for aesthetic purposes, to the exclusion of any therapeutic use. The cosmetic use of the invention therefore means use on healthy skin, that is to say non-pathological.

The composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using the Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this method being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μm.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition is a composition for topical use. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition of the invention has a balm texture, due to the solubilization of the at least one active principle in the eutectic solvent.

Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition, of at least one eutectic solvent and mangiferin, the value of 40 % being excluded. The percentage by weight of the at least one eutectic solvent may for example be from 5 to 40%, or from 10 to 30%, or from 15 to 25%.

Advantageously, the percentage by weight of the active ingredient, in particular of mangiferin, in the cosmetic composition may be between 0.01 and 5% relative to the total weight of the eutectic solvent in the cosmetic composition. For example, the weight percentage of the active ingredient may be from 0.05 to 5%, or from 0.1 to 5%, or from 0.5 to 4%, or from 1 to 3%.

The present invention also relates to a device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a mask and a tube.

Advantageously, the cosmetic treatment method makes it possible to provide, in particular, an effect on the surface of the skin, of radiance, of smoothing, of softness, of improvement of the complexion and of the general appearance of the skin, by reinforcing and / or improving epidermal differentiation and / or improving the differentiation of keratinocytes and / or improving the protective barrier function and / or hydration of the epidermis and / or epidermal nutrition.

In the context of the cosmetic processes according to the invention, or of the use according to the invention, the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of healthy skin, that is to say say skin that does not have a pathological condition. It may also be skin that does not have a visible or noticeable trace of external aggression, such as itching, sunburn, burns, bites, signs of inflammation, sores. being not limiting.

Preferably, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes. Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below, given for illustrative purposes.

EXAMPLES

Example 1 Preparation of the eutectic solvent mixture

In the following examples, the eutectic solvent was prepared as follows.

400 g of eutectic mixture "glycerin / betaine / water" in the molar ratio 2/1/1 are prepared by solubilizing, by means of a propeller stirrer, 147 g of betaine in a mixture composed of 230 g of glycerin and 23 g of Demineralized Water. The solubilization is carried out at 50 ° C., with gentle stirring (500 rpm), for 30 minutes. This mixture forms the basis of formulation. 0.1% of mangiferin (syn, aphlool) is then incorporated.

Example 2: Effect of the formulation base on the proteins involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes, nutrition and hydration.

Different studies were performed on skin models reconstructed from normal human keratinocytes and fibroblasts, obtained from abdominal plastids (Bioalternatives full thickness reconstructed skin models, 5-day FTRS) under the appropriate culture conditions, at a specific temperature. of 37 ° C, scus atmosphere at 5% CO2 and saturated with moisture. The models were treated for 7 days, in topical application (2pL). On D12 (ie 12 days after the start of treatment) the models were separated, dermal and epidermal, for separate analysis. Each expression analysis ("full transcriptome") was performed using the Affymetrix U219 chip (36,000 transcripts and variants) and a hybridization station (geneAtlas).

The main results (genes overexpressed) concerning the epidermis are indicated in the following Table 1:

Table 1: S100 calcium binding protein A7 ///

S100 calcium binding protein A7A S100A7 /// S100A7A S100 calcium binding protein A7A S100A7A retinoic acid receptor responder RARRES1 hyaluronan synthase 3 HAS3 S100 calcium binding protein A12 S100A12 UDP-N-acetyl-alpha-D-galactosamine: polypeptide N-acetylgalactosaminyltransferase 7 (GalNAc -T7) GALNT7

S100 calcium binding protein A7A S100A7A stathmin-like 2 STMN2 stathmin-like 2 STMN2 growth differentiation factor 15 GDF15 desmocollin 2 DSC2 S100 calcium binding protein A7 /// S100 calcium binding protein A7A S100A7 /// S100A7A laminBl LMNB1 desmocollin 2 DSC2

heparin-binding EGF-like growth factor HBEGF

epithelial mitogen homolog (mouse) EPGN gap junction protein, beta 2, 26kDa GJB2 growth differentiation factor 15 GDF15 desmocollin 2 DSC2 arachidonate 15-lipoxygenase, type B ALOX15B growth differentiation factor 15 GDF15 small proline-rich protein 3 SPRR3 laminB1 LMNB1 desmoglein 2 DSG2 S100 calcium binding protein A7 S100A7

cholesterol 25-hydroxylase CH25H apolipoprotein L, 6 APOL6 defensin, beta 4A /// defensin, beta

4B DEFB4A /// DEFB4B glucosamine phosphate N-acetyltransferase 1 GNPNAT1 desmoglein 2 DSG2

epithelial mitogen homolog (mouse) EPGN tetraspanin 31 TSPAN31 early growth response 1 EGR1

These markers listed in Table 1 were significantly overexpressed by treatment with the formulation base and are involved in differentiation, in desquamation, generally in the epidermal barrier function, in lipid formation. protection and / or in the retention of water in the epidermis.

Example 3 Effect of the Formulation Base on Proteins Involved in Dermal Metabolism

The main results (overexpressed genes) concerning the dermis are shown in Table 2 below:

Table 2: fibroblast growth factor binding protein 1 KIAA1199 FGFBP1 KIAA1199 tyrosinase-related protein 1 TYRP1 tissue factor pathway inhibitor 2 TFPI2

metallo-endopeptidase membrane MME leucine rich repeat containing 15 LRRC15 integrin, alpha 6 ITGA6 lysyl oxidase-like 4 LOXL4 cyclin DI CCND1

glycoprotein M6B GPM6B fibulin 1 FBLN1 dystonin dystonin-like DST /// LOC100652766 mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase kinase 8 MAP3K8 CD163 molecule CD163 lectin, galactoside-binding, soluble, 7 /// lectin,

galactoside-binding, soluble, 7B LGALS7 /// LGALS7B fibulin 1 FBLN1 BCL2-associated transcription factor 1 BCLAF1 collagen, type XVII, alpha 1 COL17A1 integrin, beta 8 ITGB8

These markers listed in Table 2 were significantly overexpressed by treatment with the formulation base and are involved in the metabolic activity of fibroblasts, synthesis and organization of the dermal matrix.

Example 4: Synergistic effect of the formulation base containing mangiferin on the proteins involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes, nutrition and hydration The experiment carried out in this example is the same as that of example 2 but with a treatment of reconstructed epidermis with the formulation base containing 0.1% of mangiferin. Overall, the overexpressed genes are the same as after treatment with the formulation base, however, the indices are higher by a factor of 1.5. Some other genes appear to be strongly overexpressed (see Table 3 below). All are also involved in interkeratinocyte junctions, in water retention, in the adhesion of the epidermis to the dermal-epidermal junction and / or in the terminal differentiation of the epidermis.

Table 3: Plakophilin 2 PKP2 cadherin, EGF LAG seven-pass G-type receptor 2 (flamingo homolog, Drosophila) CELSR2 early growth response 1 EGR1 keratin 19 KRT19 integrin, beta 6 ITGB6

versican VCAN insulin-like growth factor binding protein 5 IGFBP5 keratin 2 KRT2 syndecan 2 SDC2

EXAMPLE 5 Synergistic effect of the formulation base containing mangiferin on the proteins involved in dermal metabolism The experiment carried out in this example is the same as that of Example 3 but with a treatment of the reconstructed epidermis thanks to the base formulation containing 0.1% mangiferin. Overall, the overexpressed genes are the same as after treatment with the formulation base, however the indices are higher by a factor of 2.5 or even 3. Some other genes appear to be strongly overexpressed: COL17A, Col14A, LOXL4, FGFBP1 , FBLN1, GMP6B, COMP, FLRT3 and CTGF. All are also involved in the metabolism of dermal fibroblasts and the renewal of the matrix.

Example 6 Effect of the Formulation Base on the Renewal of Dermal Fibroblasts

Different studies were performed on normal human dermal fibroblasts, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a medium DMEM ("Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium") supplemented with 1% of serum of fetal calf (FCV), at a temperature of 37 ° C, under a 5% CO 2 atmosphere and saturated with moisture. The cells were treated with the formulation base (5.10'3 and 5.10'2%) at the end of each kinetic point, according to the quadruplicate test at 1, 2, 3 and 6 days (quadruplate tests and reproduced twice). ), cell viability was assessed by quantification of the metabolic activity of mitochondrial dehydrogenases, by measurement of hydrolysis of MTT ("MethylThiazoleTetrazolium").

The data in Table 4 below relate to the percentage viability of fibroblasts, undergoing different treatments.

The positive reference is DMEM supplemented with 5% FCS.

Table 4:

This example shows that the addition of the formula base allows the fibroblasts to proliferate by up to 26%.

EXAMPLE 7 Synergistic Effect of the Formulation Base Containing Mangiferine on the Renewal of Dermal Fibroblasts

Various studies have been carried out on normal human dermal fibroblasts, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a medium DMEM ("Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Medium") supplemented with 1% of serum fetal calf (FCS), at a temperature of 37 ° C, under a 5% CO2 atmosphere and saturated with moisture. The cells were treated with the formulation base (5.10'3 and 5.10'2%) containing 0.1% mangiferin. At the end of each kinetic point, according to the quadruplicate test at 1, 2, 3 and 6 days (quadruplate tests and reproduced twice), the cell viability was evaluated by quantification of the metabolic activity of the mitochondrial dehydrogenases, by measurement of hydrolysis of MTT ("MethylThiazoleTetrazolium").

The data in Tables 5, 6 and 7 below relate to the percentage of viability of fibroblasts undergoing different treatments.

The positive reference is DMEM supplemented with 5% FCS.

Table 5:

Table 6:

Table 7:

This example shows that the addition of the base of formula containing mangiferin allows the fibroblasts to proliferate up to 43% more than when they are treated with the formulation base alone or with mangiferin alone.

Example 8 Example of a Cosmetic Formulation Incorporating the Formulation Base

ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 0.300 qs ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.100 qs

CROSSPOLYMER SALICYLIC ACID 0.100 qs TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.100 qs PERFUME 0.100 qs SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.032 qs APHLOIATHEIFORMIS LEAF EXTRACT 0.100 qs XANTHAN GUM 0.005 qs

REFERENCES 1. Ecocert reference document, Version 2 of May 2012, implemented on 1 July 2012. 2. FR3017292 3. FR2721518. 4. Paris R. and Etcheparne S.: "About the structure of aphloiol: kinship of this xanthone with mangiferin", CR Ac. Sci. Paris, 258, 1964, p. 5277-5279. 5. Hostettman K., Review xanthone glycosides, Phytochemistry 16.7, 1977, 821-829.

Claims

1. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin as an agent reinforcing the barrier function of the epidermis, to improve the radiance of the skin, and / or to smooth the surface of the skin , and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the complexion of the skin.

2. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to claim 1, as an agent for improving the hydration of the epidermis and / or the nutrition of the epidermis.

3. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to claim 1 or 2, furthermore as activating agent for the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes and / or cellular junctions between keratinocytes.

4. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to any one of claims 1 to 3, furthermore as an agent atcivator for the renewal of dermal fibroblasts.

5. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to any preceding claim, further as an agent stimulating the synthesis of proteins involved in epidermal differentiation.

The cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said eutectic solvent comprises at least one member selected from a single carbohydrate, an organic acid, a polyol and a nitrogen compound.

The use according to claim 5, wherein: said single carbohydrate is selected from sucrose, fructose and maltose or a mixture of two or three of these carbohydrates; and / or in that said organic acid is selected from citric acid and malic acid or a mixture of these acids; and / or in that said nitrogenous compound is chosen from glycine betaine and trigonelline.

8. Cosmetic use of a eutectic solvent according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said eutectic solvent is a mixture of glycerin, betaine and water in molar proportions 2/1/1, or a mixture of acid citric, betaine and water in molar proportions 1/1/2.

9. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising a eutectic solvent and at least one active ingredient selected from mangiferin, mangoustine, rutin, apigenin, esculin, mannitol, baaceine, lupeol acetate, coumarins, polyols, triterpenes, saponins, carotenoids, polyphenols or one of their mixtures, or extracts of plants rich in these molecules such as an extract of ash manna (fraxinus ornus) rich in mannitol , an extract of chicle gum (Manilkara zapota) rich in lupeol acetate, an extract of scutellar (Scutellaria baïcalensis) rich in baigueine or an extract of green coffee beans rich in chlorogenic acids to improve the radiance of the skin, and / or smooth the surface of the skin, and / or soften the skin, and / or improve the complexion of the skin.

The use of claim 9 wherein the at least one active ingredient is mangiferin.

11. A cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising from 1 to 40% by weight, the value of 40% being excluded, with respect to the total weight of said cosmetic composition, from at least one eutectic solvent and mangiferin.

12. Device in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe and a mask, said device comprising a composition according to claim 11.

13. A cosmetic care method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising an application to the skin of a cosmetic composition according to claim 11.