FR2939669A1 - COSMETIC METHOD FOR CONTROLLING SKIN BLIND INDUCED BY UV RADIATION; Compositions. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for controlling the skin browning induced by UV radiation, in particular the browning of dark skin comprising applying to the surface of the skin at least one composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: ) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system for both UVA radiation and UVB radiation; c) and optionally at least one keratolytic agent; said composition having a critical wavelength λc greater than 370 nm. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system for both UVA radiation and UVB radiation; c) and optionally at least one keratolytic agent; said composition having a critical wavelength λc greater than 370 nm.

Description

COSMETIC METHOD FOR CONTROLLING SKIN BLIND INDUCED BY UV RADIATION; Compositions

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for controlling the skin browning induced by UV radiation, in particular the browning of dark skin comprising applying to the surface of the skin at least one composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: ) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system for both UVA radiation and UVB radiation; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; d) said composition having a critical wavelength λc greater than 370 nm.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system for both UVA radiation and UVB radiation; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; d) said composition having a critical wavelength λc greater than 370 nm.

Numerous cosmetic compositions intended to limit the darkening of the skin induced by solar radiation and more particular UV radiation have been proposed to date. These products are known to the consumer as depigmenting products, whitening products or whitening These products generally contain molecules that are active on skin pigmentation such as hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid and its derivatives or the resorcinol and these derivatives.

It is also known in International Applications WO04 / 105736, WO07 / 077258, WO07 / 077259, WO07 / 077260, US2008069784, in Applications EP1847247, FR2900046, FR2900,047 to associate with a depigmenting agent UV filters and in particular combinations UVA and UVB filters. However, one of the major drawbacks of these compositions is that they do not make it possible to control in a fully satisfactory manner the evolution and the maintenance over time of the pigmentation of the skin under UV exposure and more particularly the pigmentation of dark skin. under UV exposure so as not to increase the pigment load melanin or melanin already present in the skin.

Thus, there still remains the need to make compositions based on depigmenting agent and UV filters making it possible to obtain a more effective control of the browning of the skin under UV exposure and in particular the browning of dark skin compared with known conventional compositions. However, following extensive research in the field of artificial coloring of the skin, the Applicant has now surprisingly discovered that an application on the surface of the skin a composition comprising in the art. a cosmetically acceptable support: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system at the same time the UVA radiations of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm and the UVB radiations of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; said composition having a critical wavelength λc greater than 370 nm, better control and better maintenance of skin pigmentation under UV exposure and in particular for dark skin was obtained.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic method for controlling the skin browning induced by UV radiation, in particular the browning of dark skin comprising applying to the surface of the skin at least one composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filter system for both UVA radiation with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm and UVB radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; said composition having a critical wavelength Xc greater than 370 nm. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system at the same time UVA radiations of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm and UVB radiations of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; said composition having a critical wavelength Xc greater than 370 nm.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" means a support compatible with the skin, nails, lips, eyelashes and eyebrows, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition 40 comprising such a support.

In the remainder of the present description, the term "filtering system" means both UVA radiation and UVB radiation by a UVA radiation filtering agent having wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm and UVB radiation of 45 nm lengths. wave ranging between 280 and 320 nm constituted either a mixture of several organic compounds and / or mineral compounds filtering said UV radiation, for example a mixture comprising a UVA filter and a UVB filter, or an organic compound filtering both the radiation UVA and UVB radiation. Other features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be apparent from the following detailed description.

DEPIGMENTING AGENTS As depigmenting agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular vitamin C and its derivatives and in particular the vits CG, CP and 3-O ethyl vitamin C; arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in applications EP895779 and EP524109 such as alpha and beta arbutin; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO99 / 10318, WO99 / 32077 and in particular N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-aminophenol and N-ethyloxycarbonyl-paraaminophenol; iminophenol derivatives such as those described in application WO99 / 22707; L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine and its salts or esters; ferulic acid; lucinol and its derivatives; kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives; tranexamic acid and its derivatives; gentisic acid, homogentisate, methyl gentisate or homogentisate; dioic acid; D calcium panthetine sulfonate; lipoic acid; ellagic acid; vitamin B3; linoleic acid and its derivatives; ceramides and their homologs; plant derivatives such as chamomile, bearberry, the family of aloe (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap; a water of kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, a brown sugar extract (Saccharum officinarum), such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Molasses Liquid, without this list being exhaustive. Mention may also be made of biphenyl compounds such as magnolol, Honokiol, magnolignan etc. The amount of depigmenting agent in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.0001 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.001 to 15% by weight, still more preferably from 0.001 to 8%, in particular from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.01 to 4%, more particularly from 0.01 to at 3%, even more preferably from 0.01 to 2% and more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight.

HYDROXYLATED DIPHENYL-METHANE DERIVATIVES According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a depigmenting agent will be chosen from a hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative.

The hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives which can be used in the compositions of the invention are preferably chosen from those described in the application WO2004 / 105736. These compounds have the following formula (I): embedded image in which: R 1 is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, OOH group, and a halogen, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R3 is selected from a methyl group or a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R4 and R5 are independently of each other selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear or branched alkyl chain saturated or unsaturated having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OH group or a halogen. The groups OH, R1, R4 and R5 may be in the ortho, meta or para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon connecting the two aromatic rings to one another.

Also included in the compounds of the invention having the substituted phenyl groups and for which R2 and R3 are distinct, the enantiomeric forms of S configuration, the enantiomers of R configuration or their racemic mixture. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a compound of formula (I) is used in which: R 1, R 2, R 4 and R 5 denote a hydrogen atom; - R3 is a methyl group; the OHOH groups are in the ortho and para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon bonding between them between the two aromatic rings. This compound corresponds to the following formula (II) named 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise named phenyethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or styrylresorcinol. This compound has a CAS number 85-27-8. Such a compound is marketed under the name SYMWHITE 377 or BIO 377 by SYMRISE. R4 RS Ho PHOTOPROTECTIVE AGENTS

The compositions according to the invention comprise a filter system for both UVA radiation with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm and UVB radiation with wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.

The compositions according to the invention must have a critical wavelength λc of less than 370 nm.

The critical length is defined in particular in the B. Diffey publication: B.L. DIFFEY - Method for broad spectrum classification sunscreens Intern. Journ. Sci. 47-52 [1994]. This publication describes an in vitro spectrophotometric method for classifying photoprotective products. It characterizes the uniformity or broadening of the spectrum in UVA radiation from an index called critical length Xc. The critical wavelength is the value from which the integral of the absorption filter spectrum absorbs the 90% of the integral under the curve. It is defined in the following way: ~ c 400 such that J log [mPF (2)] d2 = 0.9 • J log [mPF (2)] d2 290 290 20 This value characterizes the broadening of the spectrum in the part UVA independently and regardless of the level of protection of the composition. It can be easily calculated by means of a conventional spectrophotometer making it possible to draw the absorbance curve of the composition of the invention.

The photoprotective agent (s) present in the filtering system according to the invention are chosen from hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic UVA and / or UVB-active organic and / or inorganic UV filters.

Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; Anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; R, R-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in EP669323 and US 2,463,264; paminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications WO 04/006878, WO 05/058269 and WO 06/032741 and mixtures thereof. 20 40 UVA FILTERS

1) Hydrophobic UV-A Filters Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc .; Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane;

Aminobenzophenones: n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL A + by BASF;

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold in particular under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by SYMRISE;

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene; Merocyanine Derivatives: Octyl-5-N, N-diethylamino-2-phenysulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate;

Preferred hydrophobic UVA filters are butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate.

2) Water-soluble UVA filters

- Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Acid Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by CHIMEX - bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323, and US 2,463,264 and more particularly the compound Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the name trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP" by Haarmann and REIMER, 35 The preferable water-soluble UVA filter is Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Acid Sulfonic Acid

UVB FILTERS 1) Hydrophobic UV-B filters

Para-aminobenzoates: Ethyl PABA; Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA; Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA (ESCALOL 507 from ISP);

Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold in particular under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM 50 Industries; 6 Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold in particular under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE; Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold in particular under the name DIPSAL by SCHER; TEA Salicylate and under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by SYMRISE;

Cinnamates Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; isopropyl methoxy cinnamate; Isoamyl methoxy cinnamate sold in particular under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by SYMRISE; Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate; Cinnoxate; Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate; Derivatives of 13,13'-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF; Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF;

Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX; Methylbenzylidene camphor sold in particular under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK; Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SW by CHIMEX;

Triazine derivatives: Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V; 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine; 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine; 2,4-bis (n-butyl 4'-amino benzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine; The symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,225,467, WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the Symetrical Triazine Derivatives IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004 ) especially 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine) and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, these last two filters being described in the applications of BEIERSDORF WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007 , WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985).

Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Derivatives of benzalmalonate: s Benzalmalonate-functional polyorganosiloxanes such as Polysilicone-15 sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL SLX by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.; Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate;

Preferred hydrophobic UVB filters are selected from Ethylhexyl Salicylate Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Triazone and mixtures thereof. Water-soluble UVB filters capable of absorbing UV from 280 to 320 nm

P-Aminobenzoic Derivatives (PABA) PABA, 20 Glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P25" by BASF Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, Ferulic acid 25 Salicylic acid DEA methoxycinnamate Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO" by CHIMEX, and

The preferred water-soluble UVB filter is Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid UVA AND UVB FILTERS

35 1) UVA and UVB hydrophobic filters

Derivatives of Benzophenone Benzophenone-1 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL 400 by 40 BASF; Benzophenone-2 sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF; Benzophenone-5; Benzophenone-6 sold in particular under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay; Benzophenone-8 sold in particular under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid; Benzophenone-10; Benzophenone-11; Benzophenone-12;

Derivatives of benzotriazole phenyl: Drometzole Trisiloxane sold in particular under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie or manufactured under the name Meroxyl XL by the company Chimex; Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form in particular under the trade name MIXXIM BB / 100 by FAIRMOUNT io CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion, especially under the trade name TINOSORB M by CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS;

Derivatives bis-resorcinyl triazines Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl triazine sold in particular under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY;

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold especially under the name of Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V; The preferred hydrophobic UVA and UVB filters are selected from the group consisting of Drometzole Trisiloxane Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 25 and mixtures thereof and even more preferably Drometzole Trisiloxane.

2) Water-soluble UVA and UVB filters

Benzophenone derivatives having at least one sulfonic radical such as Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF, Benzophenone-5, and Benzophenone-9.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a filtering system consisting of: a) at least, as UVA filter: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and preferably associated with Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Acid Sulfonic Acid and b) at least, as filter UVB, Octocrylene and preferably associated with ethylhexyl salicylate. More preferably, this filtering system will additionally comprise a hydrophobic UVA and UVB filter selected from Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in micronized form or mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a filtering system consisting of: a) at least, as UVA filter: n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate and 9 b) minus a hydrophobic UVA and UVB filter selected from Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in micronized form or mixtures thereof.

According to another particularly preferred form of the invention, a filtering system consisting of at least one organic UV filter and at least one inorganic UV filter will be used.

INORGANIC FILTERS: The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention are coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments such as, for example, titanium oxide pigments (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), of iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium. Preferably, the inorganic UV filters 15 of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.05 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferably between 0.010 and 0.1 μm, and even more particularly between 0.015 and 0.050 μm.

The pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds as described for example in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 25, 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

In a known manner, the silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially constituted by a repeating main patterns in which the silicon atoms are connected to each other by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The term "silicones" also includes the silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.

The silicones used for coating the pigments suitable for the present invention are preferably selected from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes, and polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes. Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyl trimethyl silane, polydimethylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogensiloxanes. Of course, the metal oxide pigments before their treatment with silicones may have been treated with other surfactants, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum, silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica such as the product "SUNVEIL" from the company IKEDA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA, io silica and alumina, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE, and Mirasun TiW 60 from the company Rhodia, - alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA, 15-alumina and stearate of aluminum such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 from the company TAYCA, the products" Solaveil CT-10 W "and" Solaveil CT 100 "from the company UNIQEMA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO" from MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from TAYCA, - alumina and lau aluminum spleen such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA, - iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from TAYCA, 25 - d zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR351" from the company TAYCA, silica-alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS "or" MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS "from the company TAYCA, 30-silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product" STT-30-DS "from the company TITAN KOGYO of silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from the company KEMIRA, of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 35 (S)" of the ISHIHARA company, or "UV TITAN M 262" from the company KEMIRA, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from the company TITAN KOGYO, - acid stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product 40 "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" from the company TAYCA.

Other titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane and whose average elementary particle size is between 0.025 and 0.04 μm, such as that sold under the name commercial "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices, TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 21 nm such as that sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3" by CARDRE, TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane and whose average elementary particle size is 25 nm, such as that sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example, those sold under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / polydimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated, containing 30% or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogeniloxane; ); those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone); those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); Uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold for example under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerine such that the product "M 211" sold by KEMIRA.

The photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions of the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the compositions of the invention will be applied to dark skin.

Dark skin refers to skins of persons with a high phototype, that is, skins of persons having a phototype III to VI, defined according to the Fitzpatrick classification which is based on the reactivity of the skin to the effects of radiation. solar: I always burn, never bronze II always burn, little bronze III burns moderately, bronze gradually IV burns weakly, bronze very easily V rarely burns, intensely bronze VI never burns, highly pigmented AGENTS DESQUAMANTS

According to a particularly preferred form, the compositions according to the invention will also comprise at least one desquamating agent. By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

or directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as R-hydroxyacids (BHA), in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid, otherwise known as capryloyl salicylic acid in the name of INCI); α-hydroxy acids (AHA), such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid or 9-octadecene dioic acid; urea and its derivatives; gentisic acid and its derivatives; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and its derivatives; glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as the sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); 40 honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

As other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: oligofructoses, EDTA and its derivatives, laminaria extract, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose, (3-hydroxy-acid) 2pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid, glycerol trilactate, O-octanyl-6'-D-maltose, S carboxymethyl cysteine, silicon salicylate derivatives such as those described in patent EP 0 796 861, oligofucase such as those described in US Pat. EP 0 218 200, 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in patent EP 0 899 330, ficus opuntia indica flower extract such as Exfolactivee Site, - 8-hexadecene 1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glucose and vitamin F esters, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids, such as n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid); urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, it will be used in the compositions of the invention a desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) of the following formula such as the commercial product MEXORYL SAB manufactured by CHIMEX; urea; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; sodium methyl glycine diacetate, and mixtures thereof. The desquamating agent (s) are present in qualities preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from 0.05 to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. INGREDIENTS PROMOTING SOLUBILIZATION AND / OR STABILIZATION OF THE DEPIGMENTING AGENT According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one ingredient promoting the solubilization of said derivative and / or at least one ingredient promoting the stabilization of the depigmenting agent. As ingredients promoting the solubilization of the depigmenting agent that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) lipophilic amino acid derivatives, such as in particular those described in the patent application EP 1 269 986 In particular, the lipophilic amino acid derivatives used may be those of formula R '1 (CO) N (R' 2) CH (R '3) (CH 2) n (CO) OR' 4 in which: n is in whole equal to 0.1 or 2, R'l represents a linear or branched C5 to 021 alkyl or alkenyl radical, R'2 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C3 alkyl group, R ' 3 represents a radical selected from the group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, an ethyl group, a linear or branched C3 or C4 alkyl radical, R '4 represents a C1-C10 alkyl radical or alkenyl radical; C2-C10, linear or branched, or a sterol residue.

A preferred lipophilic amino acid derivative is isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate marketed in particular by AJINOMOTO under the name ELDEW SL 205.

(ii) fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as lauric, cetyl, myristic, stearyl, palmitic, oleic, linoleic, 2-octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol (mixture cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Preferably, the octyl-2-dodecanol marketed under the name EUTANOL G by the company COGNIS or under the name ISOFOL 20 N / F by the company SASOL will be used.

(Iii) ethers such as dicaprylic ether (CTFA name: Dicaprylyl ether); or isosorbide ethers such as dimethyl isosorbide; in particular, the dimethyl isosorbide marketed under the name ARLASOLVE DMI by the company UNIQEMA will be used.

(Iv) esters such as benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN of FINETEX); or caprylic alcohol esters; in particular, the dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS will be used.

(V) isononanoate derivatives such as ethyl hexyl isononanate such as 2 ethyl hexyl isononanoate or ethyl 2-hexyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, in particular Dragoxat 89 from Dragocco or Dermol 89.

INGREDIENTS PROMOTING THE STABILIZATION OF DEPIGMENTING AGENTS

By ingredient promoting the stabilization of the depigmenting agents is meant according to the invention including an ingredient for (i) either stabilize said depigmenting agent, or (ii) stabilize the cosmetically acceptable medium 45 in which is present said depigmenting agent.

In particular in the case (ii), the ingredient promoting the stabilization of said depigmenting agents may in particular be present in a particular dosage form which contributes to the stabilization of said depigmenting agent in said cosmetically acceptable medium.

As stabilizing ingredients of said depigmenting agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) block polymers and / or copolymers b) amphiphilic lipids of ionic or nonionic type present in the form of vesicles in dispersion; c) constituent polymers of microspheres or microcapsules; d) constituent polymers of microparticles; e) polymers and / or surfactants forming microemulsions; F) polymers in the form of thin films; g) polyolefin emulsifiers with a polar part, the composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion; h) amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units. (A) polymers and / or block copolymers

It is known to encapsulate lipophilic active agents in micelles of block copolymers, for example diblock or triblock copolymers of poly (ethylene oxide propylene oxide). Advantageously, use will be made in the composition of the invention of a block amphiphilic copolymer comprising at least one nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block and at least one particular hydrophobic polymeric block. These block amphiphilic copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP 1 555 984. The molecular weight of the block copolymer is generally between 1000 and 100,000. In particular, the ratio by weight of the ionic or nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block (s) on the hydrophobic polymer block (s) is between 1/100 and 50/1. The hydrophobic polymeric block is especially chosen from: styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alkylene oxides having more than 4 carbon atoms, and preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms, the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (A) below: H2C = CR CO X in which: - R is chosen from H, -CH3, 45 - X is chosen from the alkyl oxides of the type where R 'is a radical; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based hydrocarbon having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. 25 (A) 45

Preferably, the hydrophobic polymeric block is obtained from one or more hydrophobic monomers chosen from methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate and tert-butyl (meth) acrylate. cyclohexyl acrylate.

In particular, the hydrophobic polymeric block is selected from polystyrene, poly (tert.-butylstyrene), polymethylmethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polybutylmethacrylate, C3-C6 alkylene polyoxides. Preferably, the nonionic hydrophilic polymeric block is chosen from polyoxides of ethylene.

Preferably, the block copolymer is chosen from the following block copolymers: polystyrene / polyoxyethylene-polymethylmethacrylate / polyoxyethylene-polybutylmethacrylate / polyoxyethylene-polyoxyethylene / polyoxybutylene / polyoxyethylene. (B) amphiphilic lipids of ionic or nonionic type;

According to another embodiment of the invention, the depigmenting agents are associated with ionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipids present in the form of ionic type (eg liposomes) and / or nonionic vesicles (eg: niosomes) in dispersion. in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition, in particular in aqueous dispersion.

The presence of these vesicles contributes to the stabilization of said depigmenting agents in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

These lipid vesicles may be aqueous core or oily heart. Lipid vesicles with an oily heart are preferably used.

By "vesicle" is meant according to the invention any particulate structure comprising, on the one hand, a membrane or "lipid phase" constituted by one or more concentric layers, these sheets comprising one or more bimolecular layers based on amphiphilic lipids. ionic or nonionic and on the other hand, an aqueous or oily phase encapsulated by this lipid phase. For the purposes of the invention, liposomes and niosomes constitute in particular such vesicles.

The niosomes are vesicles prepared from nonionic amphiphilic lipids. The non-ionic amphiphilic lipid which may be mentioned in particular may be chosen from, for example, polyol alkyl or polyalkyl esters, optionally oxyethylenated, and polyol ethers, optionally oxyethylenated, having a melting point. at least 40 ° C. Liposomes are vesicles prepared from ionic amphiphilic lipids. These vesicles are particles formed of a membrane constituted by one or more concentric layers, these sheets comprising one or more bimolecular layers of amphiphilic lipids encapsulating an aqueous or oily phase. The aqueous phase may contain water-soluble active substances and the bimolecular layers of amphiphilic lipids may contain lipophilic active substances. These vesicles generally have a mean diameter of between 0.01 and 5 micrometers.

The ionic amphiphilic lipids may be anionic amphiphilic lipids or cationic amphiphilic lipids.

Examples of anionic amphiphilic lipids that may be mentioned include: neutralized anionic lipids, preferably chosen from the alkaline salts of dicetylphosphate and of dimyristylphosphate, in particular the sodium and potassium salts, the alkaline salts of the acid phosphatidic acid, in particular the sodium salt, the alkaline salts of cholesterol-sulphate, in particular the sodium salt, the alkaline salts of cholesterol-phosphate, in particular the sodium salt, the salts of lipoamino acids such as mono- and disodium derivatives, more particularly the disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid marketed under the name Acylglutamate HS21 by the company AJINOMOTO, - amphoteric lipids, in particular phosphatidylethanolamine of pure soybean - alkylsulphonic derivatives.

As cationic amphiphilic lipids, it is possible especially to use quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amines and their salts.

It is advantageous to use 'double liposome' compositions for the simultaneous treatment of the superficial and deep layers of the skin, comprising a first dispersion of lipid vesicles able to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and containing at least one active ingredient capable of treating these deep layers and a second dispersion of lipid vesicles capable of penetrating into the superficial layers of the skin and containing at least one active agent capable of treating these superficial layers. Such a system is described in EP 0 661 035.

The depigmenting agents will preferably be present in the second dispersion of lipid vesicles capable of penetrating into the superficial layers of the skin. They may be associated with active agents targeting the dermis (eg anti-aging active ingredients) present in a first dispersion of lipid vesicles able to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin.

Oleosomes are oily globules provided with a lamellar liquid crystal coating dispersed in an aqueous phase, of average diameter generally less than 500 nanometers.

As an example of formulation in oleosomes, reference may be made in particular to patent EPO 641,557. (C) polymers constituting microspheres or microcapsules

According to one alternative, which is advantageous for lipophilic active agents such as certain depigmenting agents, said active agents may be associated with small particles.

It may be solid particles consisting of the combination of said hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) and at least one polymer. This polymer contributes to the stabilization of said hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

These small particles mainly comprise two different systems: "spherical particles" consisting of a polymer matrix in which said depigmenting agent is absorbed and / or adsorbed and / or mixed, as well as "microcapsules" having a structure of the type core-shell, that is to say a structure consisting of a liquid lipid core at room temperature containing the depigmenting agent in solubilized form, which core is encapsulated in a continuous protective envelope insoluble in the medium.

Microcapsules will preferably be used.

For example, reference can be made to the description of patent application EP 1 414 390.

The spherical particles generally have an average size of between 0.05 and 0.5 μm. The microcapsules are generally small in order to obtain optimal bioavailability of the depigmenting agents.

Preferably, the size of these microcapsules is between 0.01 and 35 l pm and more particularly between 0.030 and 0.5 pm.

In particular, it will be possible to use polymers in the form of microcapsules as described in patent application EP-0274961, the microcapsules provided with a lamellar coating described in application EP-0780115, and the nanocapsules whose continuous polymeric envelope is insoluble in water. water is made of polyesters as described in the applications EP-1025901, FR-2787730 and EP-1034839, or else the biodegradable microcapsules described in the patent application FR-2,659,554, or non-biodegradable described in the application WO-93/05753. 45 The microcapsules in biodegradable polymers penetrate the skin and degrade in the epidermis under the action of the enzymes present therein, whereas the microcapsules in non-biodegradable polymers penetrate only the superficial layers of the stratum corneum and are eliminated naturally. when renewing the skin. As the constituent polymers of microcapsules which can be used in the compositions of the invention in combination with the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of formula (I) or (II), mention may be made especially of poly-L- and DL-lactides and polycaprolactones, polyglycolides and their copolymers, polymers resulting from the polymerization of alkyl cyanoacrylate (the alkyl chain having from 2 to 6 carbon); synthetic or natural hydrodispersible anionic polymers; polyesters of the poly (alkylene adipate) type; dendritic polymers; copolymers of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid methyl ester, polyvinyl acetate phthalate, cellulose acetate phthalate, copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone acetate crosslinked vinyl, polyethylenevinylacetates, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylamides, polyethylene glycols, polyamides, polyethylenes, polypropylenes and organopolysiloxanes.

Preferably, polycaprolactones will be used. (d) constituent polymers of microparticles;

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, particularly advantageous for the care of oily skin, the depigmenting agents will be associated with constituent microparticle polymers.

These polymers contribute to the stabilization of said depigmenting agent in the copsmetically acceptable medium of the composition. The term "microparticles" includes in particular "porous particles" and in particular "microspheres".

Porous particles are particles having a structure having pores. This porous structure may allow at least part of the incorporation of one or more active agents within said particles.

One can refer in particular to the patent application EP 1 637 124. The structure of the particles may be of the matrix type in the image of a sponge. It can also be of vesicular type, that is to say that the particle has an internal cavity delimited by a porous wall. Porosity associated with particle size is characterized quantitatively by their specific surface area. In particular, porous particles having a specific surface area measured according to the BET method of greater than or equal to 1 m 2 / g will be used. The BET method (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) is a method well known to those skilled in the art. It is described in particular in The Journal of the American Chemical Society 45, vol.60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The specific surface area measured according to the BET method corresponds to the total surface area, that is to say it includes the area formed by the pores. According to a particular embodiment, the particles of the invention have a specific surface area measured by BET, especially ranging from 2.5 to 100 m 2 / g.

The porous particles that can be used in the compositions of the invention are generally individualized particles. The term "individualized particles" means particles that are not grouped together in the form of aggregates or agglomerates. In particular, these particles have a density greater than or equal to 0.15 g / cm 3 and in particular ranging from 0.2 to 5 g / cm 3. These particles preferably have a volume average diameter of less than or equal to 10 μm. Indeed, such particles can penetrate the sebaceous follicle by application of a mechanical force. This mechanical force generally comes from a massage which, in addition to the thrust it exerts, generates a pump effect at the level of the follicle. The particles thus gradually reach the follicular canal in which they are likely to absorb the sebum and, where appropriate, to release the active compound that they carry. The constitutive material of the particles is then rejected by virtue of the flow of sebum and / or the growth of the hair thus making it possible to avoid any undesirable reaction of the organism with respect to this material.

In particular, use will be made of particles, in particular spherical, porous particles, of number-average size ranging from 0.1 to 50 μm, in particular from 0.1 to 20 μm and most particularly from 0.5 to 10 μm.

As preferred porous particles, polyamide particles, in particular nylon 6, nylon 6-6, nylon 12 or nylon 6-12, such as those marketed by ATOFINA under the generic name of Orgasol, may be used.

This encapsulation system which allows follicular targeting is particularly advantageous in compositions intended for the treatment of oily skin.

(e) polymers and / or surfactants forming microemulsions

According to another embodiment of the invention, said depigmenting agents are combined in the composition with particular polymers and / or surfactants, the composition being in the form of a microemulsion.

These polymers and / or surfactants contribute to the stabilization of said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative of formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

Microemulsions are generally oil-in-water emulsions whose oil globules have a very fine particle size, that is, a number average size, of less than 0.1 μm.

One can refer in particular to the description of the patent EP 0 728 460.

The microemulsions can be stabilized by a lamellar liquid crystal coating obtained by the combination of a hydrophilic surfactant and a lipophilic surfactant Advantageously, the particular polymers that make it possible to produce microemulsions can be chosen from: anionic polymers with a hydrophobic chain, as described in EP 116,005; and / or the water-soluble nonionic polymers as described in patent EP 1 172 077.

The particular surfactants which make it possible to produce nanoemulsions may in particular be a ternary system of surfactants, including a mixture of nonionic surfactants and an ionic surfactant, as described in patent EP 1 353 629.

In particular, the hydrophobic chain anionic polymer comprises hydrophobic chains selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, divalent cycloaliphatic groups and aromatic divalent groups, and preferably chosen among the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, alkylene, methylenedicyclohexyl, isophorone and phenylene chains.

In particular, the anionic polymer is chosen from copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the anionic polymer is obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) chosen from α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids (α 'monomer) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (α-monomer). "), with a non-surfactant ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) other than (a) and / or an ethylenically unsaturated monomer (c) derived from the reaction of an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated acrylic monomer or a monoethylenically unsaturated isocyanate monomer with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic component or with a primary or secondary fatty amine.

Advantageously, the anionic polymer is an acrylic terpolymer obtained from (a) an α, β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) a non-surfactant ethylenically unsaturated monomer other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound with a monoethylenically unsaturated isocyanate.

For example, the anionic polymer is selected from acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / alkyl acrylate terpolymer, acrylate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, (meth) acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate terpolymer oxyethylenated (25 ° E), the oxyethylenated (20 OE), mono-ketyl acrylic acid / itaconate copolymer, the oxyethylenated (20 OE) mono-stearyl 5-acrylic acid / itaconate copolymer, the alcohols-modified acrylate / acrylate copolymer; Polyoxyethylenated C12-C24 (25 OE), methacrylic acid terpolymer / methyl acrylate / ethoxylated behenyl alcohol dimethylmaisopropenyl benzylisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the water-soluble nonionic polymer may be chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene oxide; polyvinyl alcohols; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylcaprolactam; homopolymers and copolymers of polyvinyl methyl ether; neutral acrylic homopolymers and copolymers; alkyl-C1-C2-celluloses and their derivatives; alkyl-C1-C3-guar or hydroxyalkyl-C1-C3-guar.

The ternary system of surfactants may comprise in particular: (a) a mixture of at least two nonionic surfactants comprising at least one ethoxylated fatty ester having 8 to 100 units (especially 10 to 80 units, and preferably 40) ethylene and at least one sorbitan fatty acid ester; and (b) at least one ionic surfactant selected from the alkali salts of cetyl phosphate and the alkaline salts of palmitoyl sarcosinate. The ethoxylated fatty ester is preferably polyethylene glycol 40 E stearate and the sorbitan fatty acid ester is preferably sorbitan tristearate. The ionic surfactant is especially chosen from potassium cetyl phosphate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and mixtures thereof. (f) polymers in the form of thin films

According to another embodiment of the invention, said hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives of formula (I) or (II) are associated with at least one water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer in the form of a thin film.

The composition is therefore in the form of a thin film.

This water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer contributes to the stabilization of said depigmenting agent in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

By "film" is meant in the present application, a fine and grippy solid. By "end" is meant a solid having a thickness of at most 1000 μm. This film is generally of adequate size to be easily manipulated by the user. It can have a shape of square, rectangle, disk or any other form. Each film generally has a thickness of 10 μm to 1000 μm, preferably 20 to 500 μm and more preferably 50 to 300 μm. It may have an area of 0.25 to 25 cm 2 and preferably 2 to 10 cm 2. These thin films generally contain less than 10% by weight of water, preferably less than 5% by weight based on the total weight of the film, and more preferably, not containing water.

Such films are described in patent application EP1588694.

The thin film comprises a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer which may be selected from: (1) protein-like polymers, such as wheat or soy proteins; keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; casein; albumin; collagen; glutelin; glucagon; gluten; zein; gelatines and their derivatives; (2) polymers derived from chitin or chitosan, such as anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers of chitin or chitosan; (3) polysaccharide polymers, such as (i) cellulosic polymers, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; and (ii) starches and their derivatives; (4) acrylic polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and copolymers thereof; (5) vinyl polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinylether and maleic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam, polyvinyl alcohols; (6) naturally occurring polymers, optionally modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates, carrageenans, ulvans and other algal colloids; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides, such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate; and mixtures of these polymers.

Water-soluble polymers include caprolactams, pullulan, pectin, mannan and galactomannans, glucomannans and their derivatives.

Preferably, the water-soluble polymer may be a cellulosic polymer, in particular hydroxypropyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, or else an alginate, especially sodium alginate. As examples of particular emulsifiers, mention may be made in particular of: polyolefinic emulsifiers with a polar part, in a water-in-oil emulsion; . amphiphilic polymers comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units, in one. oil-in-water emulsion.

g) Polyolefin emulsifiers with polar parts

The polyolefins with a polar part contribute to the stabilization of said depigmenting agent in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

The polyolefins with a polar portion (s) used in the composition of the invention generally consist of a polyolefinic apolar part and at least one polar part. The polyolefinic apolar portion comprises at least 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 60 to 700 carbon atoms. This apolar part may be chosen from polyolefins such as oligomers, polymers and / or copolymers of ethylene, ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, isobutene, 1-pentene and 2-methyl 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 1-heptene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-undecene, 1-dodecene, 1-tridecene, 1-Tetradecene, 1-pentadecene, 1-hexadecene, 1-heptadecene and 1-octadecene. These polyolefins are hydrogenated or not.

The polar part of the polyolefins with a polar part may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric. It is for example composed of polyalkylene glycols (in particular polyoxyethylene) or of polyalkyleneimines, or of carboxylic acids or diacids, of their anhydrides or of their derivatives such as their esters, their amides and their salts, and their mixtures . The polyolefins with a polar carboxylic acid portion can be derived, for example, from the reaction between a polyolefin and at least one carboxylic acid or anhydride, optionally totally or partially salified, selected from the group comprising succinic acid or anhydride, acid maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid (or methyl maleic acid), mesaconic acid (or methyl fumaric acid), aconitic acid, their ester or amide derivatives , and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polar portion of the polyolefin is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene, succinic acid or anhydride, esters or amides of succinic acid or anhydride, alkali metal or alkaline salts. -terreux or organic salts of the succinic acid or anhydride, or the partial salts of the monoesters or monoamides of the succinic acid or anhydride.

The polyolefins with a polar part preferred in the compositions of the invention are optionally modified succinic-terminated polyolefins, as described in patent EP 1 172 089.

As succinically terminated polyolefins, mention may be made in particular of optionally modified esterified succinic-terminated polyisobutylenes, in particular esterified with diethanolamine, and their salts, especially the diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.

Another particularly preferred polar portion polyolefin is a diethanolaminoethyl and triethanolamine polyisobutenyl succinate ester. This product is sold, for example, under the name Chemccinate 2000 by the company Chemron.

As polyolefin with polar part, it is also possible to use a glyceryl polyisobutenyl succinate ester, especially that sold under the name Chemccinate 1000 AF by the company Chemron.

h) amphiphilic polymers comprising AMPS units According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises at least one hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivative. of formula (I) or (II) and at least one amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units.

This amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units contributes to the stabilization of said hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative of formula (I) or (II) in the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition.

As amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) units that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of those described in Patent Application EP 1 466 587. Preferred amphiphilic polymers include copolymers of AMPS and of oxyethylenated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate, comprising in particular from 7 to 23 oxyethylenated groups.

The ingredients promoting solubilization and / or ingredients promoting the stabilization of said depigmenting agent according to the invention will be present in the composition in a content ranging generally from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

GALENIC FORMS

The compositions according to the invention as defined above may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions or water in oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / H), aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using polymeric microparticles such as microspheres and microcapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), microemulsions, or thin films.

These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They can also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

OIL PHASE When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn and soybean oils; , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 15 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1000R2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate of octyl-2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, 25 fatty alcohol decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-io Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. Emulsions

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by Goldschmidt. It is also possible to use, as surfactant of W / O emulsions, a crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane comprising at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the procedure 45 of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US Pat. No. 5,412,004 and examples of US-A-5,811,487, including the product of Example 3 (synthetic example) of US-A-5,412,004. and such as that sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin Etsu.

For O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

ADDITIVES In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid vesicles.

As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned in particular carbopol, luvigel, Hostacerin AMPS, Simulgel, Sepigel, xanthan, guar, cellulose gums, alginates and mixtures thereof. We can also mention hectorites.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to occlusive or non-occlusive cosmetic or dermatological carriers intended to be applied in a localized manner to the skin.

The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil.

The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is from about 20 μm to about 1.5 mm.

Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort.

Preferably, however, the support is `non-occlusive '. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.

According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention may be combined with orally administered compositions containing additional cosmetic active agents which have a beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin, such as, for example, active ingredients. additives to combat the signs of skin aging or additional active ingredients to fight against oily skin.

The additional ingredient used in the composition of the invention may also be an ingredient and / or a cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredient, in particular ingredients and / or active ingredients that are beneficial for the appearance and / or texture of the skin.

EXPENSES

The compositions of the invention may comprise at least one filler.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap Dow Corning) and Silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads) of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example st. arate zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise, in particular, at least one mattifying filler, a blooming filler, a fluorescent agent, an abrasive or exfoliating filler, and mixtures thereof.

Mattifying loads

For the purposes of the invention, mattifying filler means a spherical particle or not, porous or not, having a refractive index less than or equal to 2.2, especially less than or equal to 2, and in particular less than or equal to 1, 8, preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1.6. The mattifying fillers according to the invention have a size in volume comparable to the nacres used. The preferred size of the charges is therefore less than 15 m measured by a laser particle size analyzer, such as for example the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern and the BI90 + from Broockhaven Instrument Corporation.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mattifying fillers are spherical. In a preferred embodiment of the invention the mattifying fillers are porous. In this case, the specific surface area of the particles that can be connected to the porosity is greater than 10 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 50 m 2 / g.

15 Maturity test:

The matifying nature of the fillers according to the invention is defined by a gonioreflectometer measurement. For this, the composition containing 5% of charges is spread on a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5 - 250 cm 2 marketed by Erichsen) using a mechanical film-puller (wet thickness 30 μm). . The composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37 ° C., and the reflection is then measured with a gonioreflectometer. The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. The value of R is even lower than the mattifying effect is important. The mattifying fillers 25 according to the invention are those which at a level of 5% in a cosmetic composition give a value of less than 1, preferably less than 0.75.

The matting effect of the agent and / or of the composition containing it may in particular be evaluated using a gonioreflectometer, by measuring the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection. A value of R less than or equal to 2 generally reflects a matting effect.

The mattifying filler may especially be chosen from rice starch or maize starch, kaolinite, talc, a pumpkin seed extract, cellulose microballoons, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides, microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of polyethylene organopolysiloxane crosslinked elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicates powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof.

The matting agent may especially be chosen from a rice starch or a corn starch, kaolinite, talc, an extract of pumpkin seeds, cellulose microbeads, vegetable fibers, synthetic fibers, in particular polyamides , microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers, polyamide powders, silica powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, silicone resin powders, acrylic polymer powders, wax powders, polyethylene powders, powders of polyethylene crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, amorphous mixed silicate powders, silicate particles and in particular mixed silicate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of matting agents that may be mentioned include: rice or maize starch, in particular starch octenyl succinate aluminum sold under the name Dry Flo by the company National Starch, kaolinite; - silicas; - letalc; an extract of pumpkin seeds as marketed under the name Curbilene by the company Indena; Cellulose microbeads as described in patent application EP 1 562 562; - fibers, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, Teflon, insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1151742; microspheres of expanded acrylic copolymers such as those sold by EXPANCEL under the trade names EXPANCEL 551, fillers with an optical effect as described in patent application FR 2 869 796, in particular: polyamide powders ( Nylon), such as Arkema's Orgasol type 12 nylon particles having a mean size of 10 microns and a refractive index of 1.54, silica powders, for example Miyoshi Silica beads SB150. average 5 microns and refractive index 1.45, - powders of polytetrafluoroethylene, such as PTFE ceridust 9205F Clariant average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.36, - the silicone resin powders as the Silicon resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone of average size 4.5 microns and refractive index 1.41, 40 - powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of poly (meth) acrylate, such as PMMA particles J urymer MBI of Nihon Junyoki of average size 8 microns and refractive index 1.49, or the particles Micropearl M100 and F 80 ED of the company Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku, - the wax powders like the particles Paraffin wax microease 114S of 45 micropowders of average size 7 microns and refractive index 1.54, - polyethylene powders, especially comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, and in particular consisting of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymers such as Flobeads particles EA 209 of Sumitomo (average size 10 microns and refractive index 1.48), elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin. ETSU, and - the composite powders of talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica, such as those sold under the name Coverleaf AR-80 by the company Catalyst & Chemicals, and mixtures thereof, compounds which absorb and / or adsorb sebum as described in the patent application FR 2 869 796. Mention may in particular be made of: silica powders, such as, for example, the porous silica microspheres sold under the name "Silica Beads SB-700" marketed by the company MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE H51", "SUNSPHERE H33" "," SUNSPHERE H53 "marketed by ASAHI GLASS; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name "SA SUNSPHERE H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE H-53" marketed by the company ASAHI GLASS; Amorphous mixed silicate powders, in particular aluminum and magnesium, such as, for example, that sold under the name "NEUSILIN UFL2" by the company Sumitomo. polyamide (nylon) powders, such as for example "ORGASOL 4000" marketed by Arkema, and acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, such as for example the "COVABEAD LH85" marketed by the company WACKHERR company; polymethyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "DOW CORNING 5640 MICROSPONGE SKIN OIL ADSORBER" marketed by the company Dow Corning, or the "Ganzpearl GMP-0820" marketed by Ganz Chemical; allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, such as, for example, "POLY-PORE L200" or "POLY-PORE E200" marketed by AMCOL; ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer, such as, for example, "POLYTRAP 6603" marketed from DOW CORNING; silicate particles, such as alumina silicate; mixed silicate particles, such as: magnesium aluminum silicate particles, such as saponite or magnesium aluminum silicate, hydrated with a sodium sulfate sold under the trade name Sumecton by the company Kunimine; the magnesium silicate complex, hydroxyethylcellulose, black cumin oil, pumpkin oil and phospholipids or Lucas Meyer's Matipure, and their mixtures. As preferred matting agents, it is possible to use, according to the invention, an extract of pumpkin seeds, rice or maize starch, kaolinite, silicas, talc, polyamide powders, polyethylene powders, powders of acrylic copolymers, expanded acrylic copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads, mixed silicate particles, and mixtures thereof.

Chargers with a blooming effect These fillers can be any material that can modify wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties and mask them. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect. As a filler, the following compounds can be exemplified: - porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads SB 150 and SB 700 with an average size of 5 μm and Asahi's SUNSPHERESO series H Glass as the H33, H51 of size respectively 3.5 and 5 pm. Hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP-A-1579849; silicone resin powders, for example SILICON Resin Tospearl0 145 A DE GE Silicone average size of 4.5pm. Powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBIO particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μm, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEADO LH 85 by the company Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel0. - Wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase0 114S micropowders particles of average size of 7pm. polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADSO EA 209 E from Sumimoto, with an average size of 10 μm. crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100, KSP 1010, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu. Talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as for example the Cverleaf AR 80 from Catalyst & Chemical. talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate of hydrocarbone magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules. synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as fibers of silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (nylon), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene , polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742. - the crosslinked silicone spherical elastomers such as Trefil E-505C or E-506 CO from Dow Corning. s - abrasive fillers which mechanically provide a smoothing of the skin microrelief, such as abrasive silica such as SPO Abrasif Semanez or powders of nuts or shells (apricot, walnut for example Cosmetochem).

Fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders, powders of Crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, silicate calcium, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton, and mixtures thereof. The load can be a soft focus load.

By soft-focus charge, we mean a charge which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect. Preferably, the soft-focus charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.

The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica powders and silicates, in particular alumina, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, powders of polyethylene, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of talc of average size less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc of average size in number of 1.8 micron and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3 by the company Nippon Talc , Nylon 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos by Atochem, the silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: 40 hydrated silica (and) paraffin) ) such as those marketed by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere for example reference H-53 by the company Asahi Glass, and silica micro-beads such as those sold under the denomination SB-700 or SB-150 by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting. The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the compositions according to the invention may be between 0.1 and 40%, or even between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Abrasive Charries or Exfoliating Adhesives As exfoliating agents that may be used in rinsed compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. Thus, for example, beads or polyethylene powder, nylon powder, polyvinyl chloride powder, pumice, ground apricot kernels or nut shells can be used. sawdust, glass beads, alumina, and mixtures thereof.

Exfogreen of Solabia (bamboo extract), extracts of strawberry akenes (Greentech strawberry Akenes), peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, and finally the field of vegetable powders with abrasive effect include the cranberry powder.

Preferred abrasive fillers or exfoliant agents according to the invention are peach kernel powder, apricot kernel powder, cranberry kernel powder, strawberry achene extracts, bamboo extracts. .

The additional charge (s) used in the compositions according to the invention may preferably represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 15% and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL ASSETS

The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents.

The additional active agents may in particular be chosen from moisturizing agents, agents which improve the barrier function, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing degradation thereof, agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, agents for promoting maturation of the horny envelope, inhibitors of NO synthases, antagonists of peripheral benzodiazepine receptors (PBRs) , agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensing agents, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, skin microcirculation agents, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebum-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents astrin gents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-acne agents.

The skilled person will choose the active or said assets depending on the desired effect on the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition. For the care and / or the makeup of aged skin, it will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, agents that improve the barrier function, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, the agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, the inhibitors of NO-synthases, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor antagonists (PBRs), agents increasing sebaceous gland activity, agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells, liporestructuring agents and cutaneous microcirculatory agents for the contour eyes.

For the care and / or makeup of oily skin, those skilled in the art will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from sebo-regulating or antiseborrhoeic agents and astringent agents.

For the care and / or make-up of acne-prone skin, it will preferably choose at least one active agent chosen from anti-acne agents, cicatrizing agents and anti-inflammatory agents.

For a slimming treatment of the body, it will preferably choose an active ingredient chosen from slimming active agents and active agents that promote cutaneous microcirculation.

Examples of such compounds are described below.

1. Moisturizing or moisturizing accents

Humidifying or moisturizing agents that may especially be mentioned include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, pidolate and the like. sodium, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, imperata cylindra extract sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids. ; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene mixture glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. Preferably, use will be made of a moisturizing agent chosen from urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as NOF Lipidure-HM. corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry; a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran oils marketed by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in the application WO 02/051828 and in particular CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name MEXORYL SBB; a muscat rose oil marketed by Nestlé; an extract of microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched in zinc marketed by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc. ; spheres of collagen and chondroitin sulfate of marine origin (Ateocollagen) marketed by Engelhard Lyon under the name marine filling spheres; spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon. Another hydrating agent may be a polyoxybutylene polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glycocomponent polymer such as the NOF corporation Wildbride S 753 L, I.

2. Agents improving the barrier function

As agents improving the barrier function, there may be mentioned in particular arginine, serine, an extract of Thermus thermophilus such as Sederma's Venuiteane, an extract of wild yam rhizome (dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y d. Active Organics, plankton extracts such as Secma's omega plankton, yeast extracts such as Coletica's Relipidium, a chestnut extract such as Silab's Recoverin, a cedar bud extract such as Zen's Gatuline Gattefossé, sphingosines such as salicyloyl sphingosine sold under the name Phytosphingosine SLC by the company Degussa, a mixture of xylitol, xylityl polyglycoside and xylitan such as Seppic Aquaxyl, solanaceous extracts such as Lipidessence of Coletica; unsaturated omega 3 oils such as rose hip oils and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made in particular of ceramides or derivatives, in particular ceramides of type 2 (such as N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine), type 3 (such as stearoyl-4-hydroxysphinganine in INCI name) and type 5 (such as N-2 - 40 hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, INCI name: hydroxypalmytoyl sphinganine), compounds based on sphingoids, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and derivatives of chromone vaseline, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, PCA salts. Preferred agents having a restructuring effect of the cutaneous barrier include Thermus thermophilus extract, wild yam rhizome extract (dioscorea villosa), yeast extract, chestnut extract, cedar bud extract. arginine, serine, and especially ceramides of types 3 and 5; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the serine, the aginin or their mixture will be used.

3. Antioxidant Adents Include in particular tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; ferulic acid; serine; ellagic acid, phloretin, polyphenols, tannins, tannic acid, epoigallocathechins and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, extracts of olive leaves as those of society Silab, green tea extracts, resveratrol and its derivatives, ergothineine, N acetylcysteine, a brown alga extract pelvetia canaliculata such as Secma's Pelvetiane, chlorogenic acid, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts; idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from Provital; coenzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SOD, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, glutathione, caprylyl glycol, phloretin, TotarolTM or Podocarpus totara extract containing totarol (totara-8, 11, 13-trienol or 2-phenenanthrenol, 4b, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8a, 9,10-octahydro-4b, 8,8-trimethyl-1 (1-methylethyl) - a jasmine extract such as marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun, hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon, an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B, an extract from lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704, a pomegranate fruit extract (Punica Granatum), such as that sold by the company Draco Natural products.

Other anti-aging agents include DHEA and its derivatives, boswellic acid, rosemary extracts, carotenoids (B carotene, zeaxanthin, lutein), cysteic acid, copper derivatives, jasmonic acid

As preferred antioxidant, ferulic acid will be used in particular; serine; phloretin, pomegranate extract, biotin, chelants, such as BHT, BHA, N, N'-bis (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine and its salts, caprylyl glycol, phloretine TotarolTM, a jasmine extract such as that marketed by SILAB under the name Helisun; hesperitin laurate such as Flavagrum PEG from Engelhard Lyon; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos 40 under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

4. Skin-relaxing or dermodecontracting agents

Examples which may be mentioned are manganese gluconate and other salts, adenosine, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an Iris pallida extract, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as the Wild yam and the carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052. Examples of sapogenins that may be mentioned are those described in the patent application WO02 / 47650, in particular Wild yam, diosgenin extracted in particular from Dioscorea opposita 50 or any extract which naturally closes or after treatment 40 one or more sapogenins (rhizome). wild yam, agave leaf which contains hecogenin and tigogenin, lilyaceous extract and more particularly Yacca or smilax containing the smilagein and sarsapogenin, or the sarsaparilla root) or the Actigen Y of the company Actives Organics; or ginger.

DMAE (dimethyl MEA), extracts of sea fennel, Montpellier rockrose, helicryse, anise, Para cress, an Acmella Oleracea extract such as Gatuline expression of Gattefossé may also be mentioned.

Preferred dermorelaxing agents include adenosine, manganese gluconate, wild yam, sea fennel, glycine and alverine.

5. Anti-glycation agents

By anti-glycation agent is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular dermal proteins, such as collagen.

As anti-glycation agents, mention may be made in particular of plant extracts of the family Ericaceae, such as a blueberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium, Vaccinium myrtillus), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG by the company COSMETOCHEM , ergothioneine and its derivatives, hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ', 5,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (these anti-glycation agents are described in applications FR 2 802 425, FR 2 810,548, FR 2,796,278 and FR 2,802,420, respectively), dihydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, arginine and lysine polypeptides, such as the product sold under the name Amadorineo by Solabia, carcinine hydrochloride (marketed under by Exsymol under the name ALISTIN), an extract of Helianthus annuus, such as Silab's Antiglyskin, wine extracts such as powdered white wine extract on a maltodextrin support sold The name dehydrated white wine 2F by Givaudan, thioctic acid (or alpha lipoic acid), a mixture of bearberry extract and marine glycogen such as Aglycal LS 8777 from Laboratoires Sériobiologiques, a black tea extract. like Sederma Kombuchka and their mixtures.

Preferred anti-glycation agents include blueberry extracts (Vaccinium myrtillus) and black tea extract. 6. Agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation:

Among the active agents stimulating the macromolecules of the dermis or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of those which act:

or on the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide 50 marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium C marketed by Exsymol; plant hormones such as auxins and lignans; folic acid; and an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as that marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; and arginine.

io - either on the inhibition of the degradation of collagen, in particular agents acting on the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMP) such as more particularly the MMP 1, 2, 3, 9. There may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, extracts of medicago sativa such as Vitanol of Silab, an extract of aphanizomenon flos-aquae (cyanophyceae) marketed under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift; extracts of blueberry or rosemary; lycopene; isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular the extracts of soya (marketed for example by the company Ichimaru PHARCOS under the trade name Flavosterone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon; an extract of lychee such as lychee pericarp extract marketed by Cognis under the name Litchiderm LS 9704; Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline sold by Seppic under the name SEPILIFT DPHP: Baccharis genistelloide or Baccharine marketed by SILAB, a moringa extract such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; the sage extract described in the FRA-2812544 application of the labiae family (salvia officinalis from the company Flacksmann), the Rhododendron extract, the blueberry extract, a vaccineium myrtillus extract such as those described in the FR-application A-2814950. Or on the synthesis of molecules belonging to the family of elastins (elastin and fibrillin), such as: retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera sold by the company SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin such as the peptide extract of 40 seeds of Pisum sativum sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-45 acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with an alcohol in C1-C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica. or on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the product of fermentation of milk with Lactobacillus vulgaris, sold by BROOKS under the trade name Biomin yogourth; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the essence of Lucas Meyer's Mamaku, an extract of cress (Odraline de Silab).

or on the synthesis of fibronectin, such as Salina zooplankton extract marketed by Seporga under the trade name GP4G; The yeast extract available in particular from ALBAN MÜLLER under the trademark Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil.

Among the active agents stimulating epidermal macromolecules, such as fillagrin and keratins, mention may be made in particular of the lupine extract marketed by Silab under the trade name Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; and Salina zooplankton extract marketed by the company SEPORGA under the trade name GP4G; Copper tripeptide from PROCYTE; ; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397. Mention may be made of sugar derivatives such as xylose, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol such as that sold under the trade name MEXORYL SBB.

Preferably, an active stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation chosen from glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, elastin degradation inhibiting agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans will be used. fibronectin, agents stimulating the synthesis of epidermal macromolecules, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, use will be made of an active agent stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans chosen from a brown algae extract Padina pavonica, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca, the essence of Mamaku, an extract of cress and their mixtures .

As preferred active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, mention may be made of:

synthetic peptides such as iamin, the biopeptide CL or palmitoyloligopeptide marketed by SEDERMA; peptides extracted from plants, such as the soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Phytokine; rice peptides such as Nutripeptide from SILAB, methylsilanol mannuronate such as Algisium CO marketed by Exsymol; folic acid; an extract of Medicago sativa (alfafa) such as the product marketed by SILBA under the name Vitanol; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; arginine; . an extract of aphanizomenon flosaquae (cyanophyceae) sold under the name Lanablue by Atrium Biotechnologies, the malt extract marketed by the company Coletica under the trade name Collalift lycopene; an extract of lychee; an extract of moringa such as Arganyl LS 9781 from Cognis; an extract of vaccinium myrtillus such as those described in application FR-A-2814950; retinol and derivatives, in particular retinol palmitate; the extract of Saccharomyces Cerivisiae sold by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine; N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valyl-glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C1-C6 alcohol. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, or an extract of Phyllanthus emblica such as Rona Emblica; the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from Silab under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin. ; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Lamina'ine from Secma; the Mamaku essence of Lucas Meyer, the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; Fagus sylvatica beech bud extract marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name Gatuline RC.

7. Adents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes

The agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts that may be used in the composition according to the invention may for example be chosen from plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted especially from soybean (for example a soybean extract sold by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH- VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name 40 Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; and plant hormones such as giberrellins and cytokinins; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C.

Preferably, an agent promoting proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes will be used.

Agents stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes, which can be used in the composition according to the invention, include in particular adenosine; 45 phloroglucinol, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Ichimaru Pharcos' Amacha liquid E, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; Larrea divaricata extract such as Sederma's Capislow, papaya extract, olive leaf and lemon extracts such as Vincience's Xyline, hydrangea macrophylla leaf extract such as Amacha Ichimaru Pharcos liquid E0, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate, phloroglucinol, nut cake extracts marketed by Gattefosse and extracts of solanum tuberosum such as Dermolectin marketed by Sederma. Among the agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes include, for example, minerals such as calcium; sea fennel, a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trade name Structurine; sodium beta-sitosteryl sulphate, such as that sold by Seporga under the trademark Phytocohesine; and a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol, retinol and its esters including retinyl palmitate.

As agents stimulating the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, there may be mentioned also estrogens such as estradiol and homologues; cytokines.

As active agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of the preferred keratinocytes, mention may be made of plant proteins or polypeptides, extracted in particular from soybean (for example a soybean extract sold by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH- VEG 8 or marketed by SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); an extract of hydrolysed soy protein such as RIDULISSE SILAB; a peptide extract of hazelnut such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Nuteline C; Adenosine; phloroglucinol, a yeast extract such as CLR Stimoderm; a peptide extract of lupine such as that marketed by SILAB under the trademark Structurine; a water-soluble corn extract such as that marketed by SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Sérobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397; retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate.

8. Accents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope It will be possible to use in the compositions of the invention agents which affect the maturation of the horny envelope which deteriorates with age and induces a decrease in the activity of the cells. transglutaminase. There may be mentioned, for example, urea and its derivatives and in particular Hydrovance from National Starch 20 25 30 and the other active agents mentioned in L'OREAL application FR2877220 (unpublished).

9. NO-Synthase Inhibitors The agent having a NO synthase inhibiting action may be chosen from OPCs (procyanidolic oligomers); plant extracts of the Vitis vinifera species, sold in particular by the company Euromed under the name Leucocyanidines of extra grapes, or by the company Indena under the name Leucoselect, or by the company Hansen under the name grape marc extract ; plant extracts of the species Olea europaea preferably obtained from olive leaves and in particular marketed by VINYALS in the form of dry extract, or by Biologia & Technologia under the trade name Eurol BT; the extracts of a plant of the species Gingko biloba preferably a dry aqueous extract of this plant sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name Ginkgo biloba extract standard and mixtures thereof.

10. Benzodiazepine Peripheral Antagonists (BPC)

For example, 1- (2-chlorophenyl) -N- (1-methylpropyl) -3-isoquinoline carboxamide may be mentioned; the compounds described in WO03 / 030937, WO03 / 068753, pyridazino [4,5-b] indole-1-acetamide derivatives of general formula (VII) as described in WO00 / 44384.

11. Agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland

Mention may be made, for example, of methyl dehydrojasmonate, hecogenin, hedione, o-linoleyl-6D-glucose and mixtures thereof. 12. Agents stimulating energy metabolism of cells

The active agent stimulating the energetic metabolism of the cells may for example be chosen from biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisiae such as Sederma Phosphovital, the mixture of sodium, manganese, zinc and magnesium salts of pyrrolidone acid. carboxylic acid such as Physiogenyl of Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitonic M3 Seppic and mixtures thereof; a beta-glucan derived from Saccharomyces cerevisiae, such as the product marketed by Mibelle AG 40 Biochemistry;

13. Tensing agents

By tensing agent used according to the invention is meant compounds 45 likely to have a tensor effect, that is to say, can tend the skin.

In general, the term "tensioning agent" according to the invention means any compounds that are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or in the concentration 50. at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a shrinkage of more than 15% in the test described below.

The maximum concentration at which they form a homogeneous appearance medium is determined to within 10% and preferably to within 5%.

The term "medium of homogeneous appearance" means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye. For the determination of the said maximum concentration, the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with deflocculating stirring at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).

The tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test. A homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above.

30 μl of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 × 40 mm, thus having an initial width LO of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 μm.

After 3 hours of drying at 22 ° C. and 40% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen 25 has a retracted width, denoted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.

The tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified in the following way: 'ET' = (LO û L3h / LO) xl00 in 0/0 30 with Lo = initial width 10mm and L3h = width after 3h of drying

The tensioning agent may be chosen from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; Polysaccharides of natural origin; mixed silicates; colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, in the chemical categories listed above, the materials corresponding to the tensor test as described above.

These include: (a) proteins and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, in particular maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, peel, pea, bean, lentil, soybean and of lupine,

(b) polysaccharides of natural origin, in particular (a) polyholosides, for example (i) in the form of starch obtained in particular from rice, maize, potato, cassava, pea, wheat , oat, etc ... or (ii) in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, advantageously in aqueous dispersion of gel microparticles, and (b) the latex constituted by the shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof,

(c) mixed silicates, especially phyllosilicates and in particular Laponites,

(d) the colloidal particles of inorganic filler having a number average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and chosen for example from: silica, silica-alumina composites, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. As silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those sold by Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.

(e) synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latices or acrylic-silicone latices, in particular those described in patent application EP-1038519, such as propylthio (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane ( polymethyl methacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid), or a polydimethyl siloxane grafted propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic acid). Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or LO 21.

The tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to achieve the desired biological effect of the invention.

By way of example, the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight of active ingredient, based on the total weight of the composition.

The term "active material" is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles. It is also possible to use, especially to complement and / or potentiate the effect of tensors, use agents increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors, such as agents increasing the expression of integrins.

By way of example, mention may be made of a rye seed extract, such as that marketed by Silab under the name Coheliss.

14. Lipostructuring Adents By 'liporestructive agents' is meant according to the invention agents capable of stimulating lipogenesis and promoting adipocyte differentiation, thus making it possible to prevent or slow down the melting of the fats contained in the support tissues of the body. skin, otherwise called 'melting lipostructure of the skin'. By "lipo-structure of the skin" is meant the network of lipid cells which forms the volumes on which the skin of the face rests and molds.

These agents, which are intended to reduce the loss of skin density and / or the melting of the lipostructure of the skin, in particular at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or to avoid sagging and / or the digging of the volumes of the face, the loss of consistency of the skin and / or its maintenance, especially at the level of the cheeks and the contour of the eye, and / or 15 - to improve the volumes which underlie the skin face and / or neck, especially in the cheeks, oval of the face and around the eye, and / or - improve the density, rebound and maintenance of the skin, especially at the level of the cheeks, the oval of the face and the contour of the eye, and / or - reshape the features of the face, especially the oval of the face. Examples of liporestructuring agents that may be mentioned include a black tea extract, such as the fermented black tea extract marketed by Sederma under the name Kombuchka, and an extract of Artemisia abrotanum, such as the one sold by Sllab under the name Pulpactyl. 15. Thinning accents

As slimming agents (lipolytics), caffeine, theophylline and its derivatives, theobromine, sericin, asiatic acid, acefylline, aminophylline, chloroethyltheophylline, diprofylline, diniprophylline, etamiphylline and its derivatives, etofylline, proxyphylline; extracts of tea, coffee, guarana, mate, cola (Cola Nitida) and in particular the dry extract of guarana fruit (Paulina sorbilis) containing 8 to 10% of caffeine; extracts of climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), St. John's Wort (Byperycum Perforatum), Common Snapper (Ruscus aculeatus L), Ulmaria (Filipendula ulmaria L), Orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), Birch (Betula alba), Cécropia and Argan; ginkgo biloba extracts, horsetail extracts, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts, diosgenin-rich dioscorate extracts or pure diosgenin or hecogenin and their derivatives, Ballote extracts , extracts of Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, Antirobia, the extract of petit grain of bigarrade; an extract of cocoa bean shells (theobroma cacao) such as that marketed by Solabia under the name Caobromine.

16. Agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation

The active agent acting on the cutaneous microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the appearance of the eye contour, in particular to reduce dark circles. It may be chosen, for example, from a maritime pine bark extract such as Pycnogenol from Biolandes, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), an extract from Ammi visnaga, such as Visnadine from Indena, extract from lupine (Eclaline de Silab), hydrolysed wheat protein / palmitic acid coupling with palmitic acid such as Carilene Laboratories Epaline 100, bitter orange flower extract (Silab remodulin), vitamin P and its derivatives such as methyl Sodium esculetol mono-ethanoate sold under the name Permethol by the company Sephytal, extracts of ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng and sweetclover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, lysine and its derivatives such as Solabia Asparlyne, a black tea extract such as Sederma Kombuchka; rutin salts: an extract of algae corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures.

Preferred agents promoting cutaneous microcirculation are caffeine, a bigarade flower extract, black tea extract, rutin salts, coralline officinalis seaweed extract.

17. Soothing or Anti-Irritant Adents A soothing agent is a compound that reduces the sensation of tingling, itching, or tightness of the skin.

As soothing agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: procyannidol oligomers, vitamins E, B5, B3, caffeine and its derivatives, pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them, b-acid glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide) and the plants containing it (eg Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, the extracts of Centella asiatica, the oil of Canola, bisabolol, vitamin E and C diesterphosphoric acid, such as Seppic's Sepivital EPC, chamomile extracts, allantoin, omega 3 unsaturated oils such as musk rose, blackcurrant, ecchium, pea oil its, calophilum oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name "Seppicalm VG" by Seppic, an extract of Boswellia serrata an extract of Centipeda cunnighami such as that sold under the name "Cehami 40 PF" by the company TRI-K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Silab's helioxin, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds such as Sensiline of Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium such as that sold under the name "Canadian Willowherb Extract" by the company FYTOKEM PRODUCTS, aloe vera, phytosterols, blueberry water 45, rose water, a mint extract, in particular mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and commercial made by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG, an extract of rose petals such as the Rose Flower Herbasol extract of Cosmetochem 50, shea butter, a mixture of barley seed wax fraction obtained by supercritical CO2, shea butter and argan oil such as "Stimu-tex AS" from Pentapharm, alkaline earth salts including strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As preferred soothing agents according to the invention, use will be made of: b-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid, glycyrrhetinic monoglucuronide acid) and the plants containing them ( eg Glycyrrhiza glabra); ursolic acid and its salts; extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol; chamomile extracts, allantoin; a mixture of water lily flower extract and palmitoylproline such as that sold under the name Seppicalm VG by the company Seppic; aloe vera, rose water, a mint extract, in particular 20 mint leaves such as Silab's Calmiskin, filamentous bacteria such as Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in patent EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the name Mexoryl SBG denomination, an extract of rose petals such as Rose Flower Herbasol extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter, a fermented extract of Alteromonas 25 marketed under the name ABYSSINE by the company Atrium Biotechnologies; the thermal waters of the Vichy basin, such as the waters from Celestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc, and preferably Lucas spring water; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

18. Sebo-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents By "seboregulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents" is meant in particular agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.

There may be mentioned in particular: 40 - retinoic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), selenium chloride, sea fennel; mixtures of cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic; - the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine, marketed 45 in particular by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Sepicontrol A5; zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; copper derivatives and in particular copper pidolate such as Cuivridone from Solabia; extracts of plants of the species Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha piperita, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia oficinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all sold for example by the company MARUZEN; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; Linseed extract such as that sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron extract BG by the company Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by the company Ichimaru Pharcos; Mixtures of argan oil, serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) extract and sesame seed extract, such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by the company Pentapharm; mixtures of extracts of willowweed, terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae), such as that sold under the name Seborilys 25 by the company green tech; extracts of Pygeum afrianum, such as that sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by the company Euromed; extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by the company Actives International, or those sold by the company Euromed; mixtures of extracts of plantain, berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate, such as the product sold under the name Seboclear by the company Rahn; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove extract 35 Powder by the company Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl by Serobiological Laboratories; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; 40 - algae laminaria extracts, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by the company Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides of algae laminaria digitata such as that sold under the name Phycosaccharide AC by the company Codif; cane sugar extracts such as the product sold under the name 45 Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulphonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by the company Ichthyol; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tubers and modified with alkylsulphonate chains, such as the one sold under the name Biopol Beta by the company Arch Chemical; extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by the company Bioland; extracts of Cinchona succirubra bark such as that sold under the name Red Bark HS by the company Alban Muller; extracts of quillaja saponaria, such as that sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in the form of a gel under the name AC.Net by Sederma; Phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOL ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOL ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; and - their mixtures. As preferred anti-seborrhoeic active agents, mention may be made of: benzoyl peroxide, vitamin B6 (or pyridoxine), zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; - meadowsweet extracts (Spiraea ulamaria) such as that sold under the name Sébonormine by the company Silab; algae extracts laminaria saccharina such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by the company Biotechmarine; Mixtures of extracts of burnet root (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), of ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and of cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as that sold under the name Sebustop by the company Solabia; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove extract 40 Powder by the company Maruzen; lactic protein filtrates, such as the product sold under the name Normaseb by the company Sederma; - extracts of ulmaire (spiraea ulmaria) such as that sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol; Sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Sederma; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOLO ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl citrate (C14-C15) sold under the name COSMACOLO ECL by the company Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, and in particular mixtures of 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, of sebacic acid and of 1,10-decandiol, such as that sold under the name Acnacidol BG by the company Vincience; - and their mixtures.

Preferably, the anti-seborrhoeic active agent is chosen from: io - zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, carboxylate zinc, zinc salicylate, zinc cysteate; and preferably zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (or zinc pidolate) or zinc salicylate; clove extract, such as that sold under the name Clove Extract Powder by the company Maruzen; glycine grafted on an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by the company Seppic; trialkyl citrate (C12-C13) sold under the name COSMACOLO ECI by the company Sasol; trialkyl (C14-C15) citrate sold under the name COSMACOLO ECL by the company Sasol; - and their mixtures.

The anti-seborrhoeic active agent is for example present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Astringent Adents

By "astringent agents" is meant according to the invention agents for controlling the dilation of the sebaceous follicles.

As astringent agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of extracts of mushroom pulp (polyporus officinalis) such as "Laricyl LS88650" from Cognis, extracts of Terminalia catappa and sambucus 35 nigra, such as Phytofirm LS91200 from Cognis, gall-nut extracts such as Tanlex VEO from Ichimaru Pharcos, aluminum hydroxychloride, extracts of centella (ex Plantactiv centella of Cognis), di-ethyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as Varisoft 432 CG from Degussa, extracts of marmalade, mauve extracts, Hammamelis extracts, extracts of sweet almonds, marshmallow roots and flax seeds such as Almondermin LS 3380 from Cognis, burdock extracts, extracts of nettle, extracts of birch, extracts of horsetail, extracts of chamomile such as those sold under the name Extrapone 9 special0 by the company Symrise, extracts of scutellaria, extracts of Ulmaire (for example l e Cytobiol Ulmaire 45 from Libiol), a blend of extracts of white ginger, horsetail, nettle, rosemary, yucca such as Bell flavors & fragrances Herb extract B1348, extracts of acacia, elm , white willow, cinnamon, birch, meadowsweet, panama sapogenins, Interchemical zinc phenolsulfonate, gentian extracts, cucumber, walnut, the mixture of extracts of Ratanhia, grapefruit 45 , grindelia and oak gall as Alban Muller's Epilami.

Preferred astringent agents according to the invention will be scutellaria extracts, ulmary extracts, close-up queen extracts, gentian extracts, burdock extracts and mixtures thereof.

20. Aclents cicatrisants

Examples of healing agents that may be mentioned include: allantoin, urea, certain amino acids such as hydroxyproline, arginine, serine, and also extracts of white lily (such as Phytelene Lys 37EG 16295). of Indena), a yeast extract such as the healing wound LS LO / 7225B from Serobiological Laboratories), tamanu oil, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract such as Biodynes TRF from Arch Chemical, oat extracts, chitosan and derivatives such as chitosan glutamate, carrot extracts, artemia extract such as Vincience GP4G, sodium acexamate, lavandin extracts, propolis extracts, ximeninic acid and its salts, rosa rugosa oil, marigold extracts such as Alban Muller's Marigold Lipstick, horsetail extracts, lemon bark extracts such as Cosmetochem lemon Herbasol, helichryse extracts, millefeuilles extracts , and folic acid.

Preferred healing agents according to the invention will be arginine, serine, folic acid, tamanu oil, sodium acexamate, horsetail extracts, helichryse extracts, and mixtures thereof. .

21. Anti-inflammatory Adents

Particular antiinflammatory agents which can be used according to the invention include cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin, betamethasone, azealic acid, acetaminophen, diclofenac, clobetasol propionate, and the like. folic; an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by the company COGNIS under the name Eperuline; a root extract of Paeonia suffructicosa such as that marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

As a preferred anti-inflammatory agent, there will be mentioned azelaic acid, folic acid, an extract of Eperua falcata bark such as that marketed by COGNIS under the name Eperuline; an extract of Paeonia suffructicosa root such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B; and their mixtures.

22. Anti-acne Adents In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the composition may further comprise at least one anti-acne active agent.

By "anti-acne active" is meant any active having effects on the specific flora of oily skin such as for example Propionibacterium acnes (P acnes).

These effects can be bactericidal. As anti-bactericidal active agents, mention may in particular be made of: the active agents and preservatives with anti-microbial activity mentioned in the application DE10324567, the Asian acid, the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- trimethylpentyl 2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), sold in particular under the name Octopirox by Clariant; citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-enecarboxylic acid), and 2-ethyl hexyl glycerol ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the name Sensiva SC 50 by the Shulke & Mayr company, - caprylate / glyceryl caprate, for example sold under the name Capmul MCM by ABITEC; calcium and sodium phosphosilicate, sold in particular under the names Bioactive glasspowder and Actysse Premier BG by the company Schott Glass; silver-based particles, for example those sold under the name Metashine ME 2025 PS by the company Nippon Sheet Glass; the hop cone extract (Humulus Lupulus) obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name HOP CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, the extract of Millepertius obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction, such as that sold under the name ST John's Wort CO2-TO extract by the company Flavex Naturextrakte, 30 - the mixture of extracts of roots of scutellaria baicalensis, of paeonia suffruticosa and of glycyrrhiza glabra, such as that sold under the name BMB-CF by the Naturogin company, - argan extract as Argapure LS9710 from COGNIS; - bearberry leaf extracts such as the one sold under the name "Melfade-J" by Pentapharm; 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, such as Acnacidol P from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, di-iodomethyl p-tolylsulfone, such as Amicale Flowable from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as Zincare from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic DCA from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (or triclocarban), 3 , 4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, 45 miconazole and its salts, itraconazole , terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 5o-4-hydroxy benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerine or octoglycerine, octanoylglycine such as Lipacid C8G from Seppic, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent application WO9318743, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of certain surfactants having an antimicrobial effect such as cocoampho sodium acetate or diacetate disodium such as Miranol C2M CONC NP, betaines such as cocoyl betaine Genagen KB from Clariant, sodium lauryl ether sulfate such as Emal 270 D from Kao, decyl glucoside such as Plantacare 2000 UP, C12-13 dialkool maleate branched as Cosmacol EMI, propylene glycol monoesters such as monolaurate, monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprate, lauryl dimethylamine betaine such as Empigen BB / LS as well as quaternary polyammoniums such as Quaternium-24 or Bardac 2050 from Lonza and those described in patent FR 0 108 283 and mixtures thereof.

As preferred antimicrobial agents, one will use in the compositions of the invention an agent selected from octoglycerin or octoxyglycerine, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. Other additional anti-acne active agents may be added to the aforementioned anti-acne active agents.

In particular, active agents having bacterial anti-adhesion effects or acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their multiplication can be mentioned.

As agents that prevent and / or reduce the adhesion of microorganisms, mention may be made in particular of: phytanetriol and its derivatives as described in patent application EP 1 529 523, vegetable oils such as coconut oil, wheat, marigold oil, castor oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, sunflower oil, macadamia oil, described in patent EP 1 133 979, or certain surfactants such as disodium cocoamphodiacetate, cocoamphodiacetate or oxyethylenated glyceryl (70E), hexadecenylsuccinate 18, octoxyglyceryl palmitate, octoxyglyceryl behenate, dioctyl adipate, PPG-15 stearyl ether, branched C12-C13 di-alcohols tartrate described in US Pat. EP 1 129 694 and mixtures thereof. In particular with respect to the propagation of P acnes, or as active agents acting on the biofilm of bacteria to prevent their proliferation, mention may be made of pentylene glycol, nylon-66 (polyamide 66 fibers), rice bran oil, polyvinyl alcohol such as Celvol 540 PV alcohol from Celanese Chemical, rapeseed oil such as Akorex L from Karlshamns, and fructose derivatives and mixtures thereof. The active ingredient against acne may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the nature and / or the solubility of the aforementioned assets, a person skilled in the art will know how to choose the most suitable embodiment according to the invention.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents will be present in one of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For peeling applications, the contents of cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients may range from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition.

Peelings are a well-known means of improving the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and uniformity of the complexion and / or to reduce visible and / or tactile irregularities. of the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth the 25 irregularities of the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines.

They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods. Concrete but non-limiting examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

COSMETIC SET

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and a composition as described above and disposed within said compartment. The container may be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.

The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap. articulated on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve. The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, a felt, or 'a spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.

The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be disposed on an impregnated carrier, particularly in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and disposed (individually or in combination) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538. including correcting pencils.

The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.

The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. container.

The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and capable of covering at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042.

The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described for example in the patent FR2792618.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. The amounts of the ingredients in the following formulation examples are expressed as% by weight based on the totality of the formulation. Examples 1 to 3: Cream gels: Ingredients Ex 1 EX 2 Ex 3 Phenylethyl resorcinol 0.3 0.5 Caprylyl glycol 0 5 0.5 0.5 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3 3 3 (and) SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (LUVIGEL EM ùBASF) Water gsp100 gsp100 gsp100 Triethanolamine 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 Drometrizole trisiloxane 2 2 2 Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.3 0.3 0.3 Cyclohexasiloxane 2 2 Glycerine 5 5 Propylene glycol 10 10 Octocrylene 7 7 7 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 3 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.3 Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic 0.5 0.5 0 , 5 acid Conservative 0.8 0.8 0.8 Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 Salicylic acid 0.5 0.5 lucinol 0.3 60 Examples 4 and 5: Hand cream: Ingredients EX 4 Ex 5 Phenylethyl resorcinol 0.3 0.3 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 3 3 Water qs 100 qs 100 Triethanolamine 0.9 0.9 Ethylhexyl salicylate 5 5 Dromet rice trisiloxane 7 7 Synthetic wax 2 2 Cyclohexasiloxane 7 7 Glycerine 5 5 Dimethicone 13 13 Octocrylene 7 7 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 3 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.1 Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid 0.5 0.5 Preservative 0.8 0.8 Disodium EDTA 0 , 2 0.2 Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer 4.2 4.2 Dimethicone crosspolymer 0.2 0.2 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5 Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 2 2 Salicylic acid 1.05 COMPARATIVE EVALUATION OF THE PREVENTION OF SKIN BLURBISH.

The following two formulations are prepared. Ingredients Ex 6 outside the invention Phenylethyl resorcinol 0.1 Capryloyl salicylic acid 0.1 Disodium EDTA 0.15 Triethanolamine 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Preservative 0.3 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 7.5 Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum (and) stearic acid 2 Acrylates / C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer 0.3 Cyclopentasiloxane 6 Glycerin 5 Stearic acid 1.5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.2 The graph of the FIG. 1 shows that the composition has a critical wavelength λc equal to 349 nm. 5 Ingredients Ex 7 according to the invention Complexant 0, Triethanolamine 0.5 Preservatives 1 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 3 Stearyl alcohol 1,3 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3 Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid 2 Octocrylene 5 Drometrizole Trisiloxane 1.3 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 2 Xanthan Gum 0.3 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.2 Cyclopentasiloxane 3 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 8 Glycerin 5 G lyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate 2 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 1,3 Phenyl ethyl resorcinol 0.1 Caprylyol salicylic acid 0.1 Water qs 100 The graph of FIG. 1 shows that composition 7 has a critical wavelength λc equal to 377 nm. In Examples 6 and 7, in vivo tests are carried out on 8 volunteers satisfying the following criteria:

They have a highly pigmented skin type V, associated with an Individual Typological Angle (ITA °) less than 15 ° in the selection.

The phototype is expressed as the angle ITA ° calculated from the value of L * and b * of the skin.

ITA ° = (ATAN ((L * -50) / b)) * 180/3, 14159)

where L * is the luminance of the skin, b * its yellow component obtained by standard colorimetric measurements using a Minolta CR200 colorimeter. ATAN is the arc-tangent function. This calculation, well known to those skilled in the art, is described in detail in Chardon A, Cretan I, and Hourseau C: Skin color typology and suntanning pathways. Int J Cosm Scie, 13, 191-208, 1991. The skin types can be grouped according to their ITA ° as follows: ITA °> 55 °: very light skin 41 ° <ITA ° <55 °: light skin 28 ° <ITA ° <41 °: intermediate skin 10 ° <ITA ° <28 °: matte skin - 30 ° <ITA ° <100: brown skin ITA ° <-30 °: black skin

Minizones are delineated on the back and subjected to a UVA + UVB spectrum of 10 290 to 400 nm.

Each zone produced (application at 2 mg / cm 2) was exposed according to 6 increasing doses of UV (D1 to D6). The zone without product noted "DMPnp".

Quantification of the piqmentation:

Visual Pigmentation Ratings: Scale at 14 Evaluation Levels Colorimetric measurements on each exposed area (treated or untreated) + one measurement on the adjacent control area. Exploitation of the measures:

Comparison for each dose of UV, for each product (as well as for the bare skin, DMPnp) and for each subject of the level of UV pigmentation induced relative to the unexposed non-exposed zone:

- Exploitation of the parameters L *, a *, b *, then computation for each dose of UVJ, for each product (or untreated zone exposed) and for each subject of their variation and the parameter (AE) 2 = Aa * 2 + Ab * 2 + AL * 2 30 The higher the DE, the darker the exposed skin

- The variation of the angle ITA ° between the exposed zone and the unexposed control zone which makes it possible to observe the change in skin class before and after exposure of each of the zones. AITA ° = ITA ° exposed spot - ITA ° adjacent skin: The larger the AITA, the darker the exposed skin.

The results are represented in the curves of Figure 2.

These results demonstrate that the composition characterized by a critical wavelength (λc) value greater than 370 nm exhibits a better efficacy for preventing browning than a composition having a lower critical wavelength value (λc). at 370 nm. 20

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic method for controlling the skin browning induced by UV radiation, comprising applying to the surface of the skin at least one composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support: a) at least one depigmenting agent and b) at least one filtering system both UVA radiations of wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm and UVB radiations of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm; c) and optionally at least one desquamating agent; said composition having a critical wavelength Xc greater than 370 nm. 15 2. Method according to claim 1 for controlling the browning of a dark skin induced by UV radiation. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the depigmenting agent is chosen from the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives .referred to the following formula (t): in which: R, is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a grouping methyl, a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an OH group, and a halogen, R2 is selected from a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a linear alkyl chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 3 is selected from a methyl group or a straight or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, R 4 and R 5 are independently one of the other selected from a hydrogen atom,. a methyl group, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, an OH group or a halogen; as well as their S configuration enantiomers, their R configuration enantiomers or racemic mixtures thereof. 4. Process according to claim 3, wherein the hydroxylated diphenylmethane derivatives are chosen from those of formula (I) in which: R1, R2, R4 and R5 denote a hydrogen atom; R3 is a methyl group; the OH groups are in the ortho and para position with respect to the bond formed with the carbon bonding between them between the two aromatic rings. 5. A process according to claim 4 wherein the hydroxylated diphenyl methane derivative is 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-benzenediol or 4- (1-phenylethyl) -1,3-dihydroxybenzene or otherwise known as phenyethyl resorcinol or phenylethylbenzenediol or styrylresorcinol of formula (II) below: 6. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the filter system is constituted by: a) at least, as UVA filter: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and preferably associated with Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Acid Sulfonic Acid and b) at least as a UVB filter, octocrylene and preferably associated with ethylhexyl salicylate. The method of claim 6, wherein the filter system will further comprise a hydrophobic UVA and UVB filter selected from Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in micronized form or mixtures thereof. 8. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the filtering system consists of: a) at least, like UVA filter: n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate and b) at least one hydrophobic UVA and UVB filter selected from Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in micronized form or mixtures thereof. 9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the filter system is constituted by at least one organic UV filter and at least one inorganic UV filter. 10. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition further comprises at least one desquamating agent. 35 11. The method of claim 10 wherein the desquamating agent is selected from beta-hydroxy acids, n-octanoyl acid 5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid); urea; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; methyl glycine sodium diacetate, and mixtures thereof. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises at least one ingredient promoting solubilization of the depigmenting agent and / or at least one ingredient promoting stabilization of the depigmenting agent. . A process according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises at least one adjuvant selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents; conservatives ; solvents; the perfumes ; bactericides; odor absorbers, dyestuffs, plant extracts, salts, basic agents; acids; nonionic, anionic, cationic surfactants; the fillers chosen from mattifying fillers, blooming fillers, fluorescent agents, abrasive or exfoliating fillers and mixtures thereof; the active agents chosen from moisturizing agents, barrier-improving agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or keratinocyte differentiation, corneal envelope enhancers, NO-synthase inhibitors, peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energetic metabolism of cells, tensing agents, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, skin microcirculation agents, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebum regulators or anti-inflammatory agents. Seborrhoeic agents, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents -Inflammatory and anti-acne agents. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. 15. A cosmetic or dermatological assembly comprising: a) a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure member; and b) a composition disposed within said compartment, the composition being in accordance with any one of the preceding claims.