FR2914858A1 - Topical cosmetic composition useful e.g. as depigmenting agent, capillary growth activator and to treat pigmentary spots, comprises vegetable lectin or vegetable extract rich in lectin having inhibiting activity of melanosome phagocytosis - Google Patents
Topical cosmetic composition useful e.g. as depigmenting agent, capillary growth activator and to treat pigmentary spots, comprises vegetable lectin or vegetable extract rich in lectin having inhibiting activity of melanosome phagocytosis Download PDFInfo
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- FR2914858A1 FR2914858A1 FR0702688A FR0702688A FR2914858A1 FR 2914858 A1 FR2914858 A1 FR 2914858A1 FR 0702688 A FR0702688 A FR 0702688A FR 0702688 A FR0702688 A FR 0702688A FR 2914858 A1 FR2914858 A1 FR 2914858A1
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- cosmetic composition
- lectins
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- lectin
- plant
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 35
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- WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxybenzoic acid (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl) ester Chemical compound C1C(C)(C)CC(C)CC1OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O WSSJONWNBBTCMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BEJNERDRQOWKJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N kojic acid Chemical compound OCC1=CC(=O)C(O)=CO1 BEJNERDRQOWKJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004705 kojic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WZNJWVWKTVETCG-UHFFFAOYSA-N kojic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CN1C=CC(=O)C(O)=C1 WZNJWVWKTVETCG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N tyrosine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 OUYCCCASQSFEME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
- A61Q7/02—Preparations for inhibiting or slowing hair growth
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION COSMETIQUECOSMETIC COMPOSITION
La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, pour le ;oin de la peau et des phanères, notamment pour dépigmenter la peau, unifier le teint ou traiter les tâches pigmentaires, à base d'extrait de plante appartenant à la famille des Moraceae et plus spécifiquement au genre Artocarpus. The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the skin and skin appendages, especially for depigmenting the skin, unifying the complexion or treating pigmentary spots, based on plant extract belonging to the family Moraceae and more specifically to the Artocarpus genus.
La compréhension des bases chimiques et enzymatiques de la mélanogénèse est largement documentée. Les mélanocytes migrent de la crête neurale embryonnaire vers la peau pour produire des granules sécrétoires, les mélanosomes, qui produisent de la mélanine. La mélanogénèse se produit dans les mélanosomes, et la mélanine est distribuée plus tard au niveau des kératinocytes via les dendrites des mélanocytes. L'enzyme clé dans la mélanogénèse est la tyrosinase, qui initie une cascade de réactions qui convertissent la tyrosine en bio polymère, la mélanine. La couleur de la peau est une préoccupation de l'être humain depuis de nombreuses années. En particulier, la possibilité de traiter l'hyperpigmentation, comme les tâches de vieillesse, tâches de rousseurs, qui intéresse les individus désirant un teint unifié. I)am certaines zones du monde un éclaircissement global de la peau est souhaité. Il existe de nombreuses méthodes proposées dans ce but. Par exemple, l'acide kojique, l'hydroquinone, les rétinoïdes et autres composés chimiques ont été utilisés peur la dépigmentation. Beaucoup de ces produits se sont avérés irritants pour la peau hoir dangereux à l'usage. L'hyperpigmentation post-inflammatoire est un problème fréquent, présent au niveau de différents désordres cutanés. Les traitements laser ne sont pas efficaces sur tous les types d'hyperpigmentation, les traitements chimiques et les filtres solaires ne préviennent ni n'éliminent complètement les tâches hyperpigmentaires. La recherche, d'un nouveau traitement dépigmentant sans effet secondaire et utilisable dans un soin quotidien, est toujours d'actualité. The understanding of the chemical and enzymatic bases of melanogenesis is widely documented. Melanocytes migrate from the embryonic neural crest to the skin to produce secretory granules, the melanosomes, which produce melanin. Melanogenesis occurs in melanosomes, and melanin is later distributed to keratinocytes via melanocyte dendrites. The key enzyme in melanogenesis is tyrosinase, which initiates a cascade of reactions that convert tyrosine to bio-polymer, melanin. The color of the skin has been a concern of the human being for many years. In particular, the possibility of treating hyperpigmentation, such as age spots, freckles, which interests individuals desiring a unified complexion. I) am certain areas of the world an overall lightening of the skin is desired. There are many methods proposed for this purpose. For example, kojic acid, hydroquinone, retinoids and other chemical compounds have been used for depigmentation. Many of these products have proven to be irritating to the skin when it is dangerous to use. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common problem, present in various skin disorders. Laser treatments are not effective on all types of hyperpigmentation, chemical treatments and sunscreens do not prevent or completely eliminate hyperpigmentary tasks. The research, a new treatment depigmenting without side effects and usable in a daily care, is still relevant.
La présente invention .t donc pour objet une composition cosmétique topique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend des lectines végétales ou un extrait végétal concentré en lectines. La synapse de pigmentation entre le mélanocyte et le kératinocyte implique des lectines. Ce sont des récepteurs d'adhésion qui se lient aux résidus sucre présents à la surface des membranes cellulaires. L'addition de lectines à des co-cultures mélanocyte3 kératinocytes est connue pour inhiber de manière réversible le tranfert de la mélanine (Van Den Bossche et al., u The quest for the mechanism of melanin tram fer , Trafj2c, Vol 7, pp. 769-778, 2006). Les lectines peuvent donc être utilisées comme agents dépigmentant, unificateurs de teint et antitâches sans irritation de la peau. La présente invention cosmétique pourra aussi de par ses propriétés inhibitrices de la 5-alpha-reductase (Shimizu et al., The 5-alpha-reductase inhibitory components of heartwood of Artocarpus incisus : structure activity investigations , Planta Med , Vol 66, pp. 16-19, 2000) être utilisée en tant qu'agent modulant la croissance des phanères et principe actif anti-age par inhibition de la collagénase. L'invention cosmétique envisage bien entendu des lectines végétales cosmétiquement acceptables et de préférence un extrait riche en de telles lectines. Io L'invention vise particulièrement des lectines végétales dénommées jacaline et artocarpine extraites d'Artocarpus heterophyllus appartenant à la famille botanique des Moraceae (de Miranda-Santos et al., A crude extract of Artocarpus integrifolia contains two lectins with distinct biological activities , Immunol. Leu., Vol 31(1), pp.65-71, 1992). Artocarpus i ieterophyllus est une espèce répandue en Asie. 15 La présente invention se rapporte donc à une composition cosmétique topique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend des lectines végétales ou un extrait végétal riche en lectines présentant une activité inhibitrice de la phagocytose des mélanosomes. Il s'agit d'un isolat de lectines ou d'un extrait riche en lectines qui peut être obtenu par 20 extraction et isolement, voire purification plus ou moins poussée, selon des techniques connues de l'homme du métier. L'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus peut être sous forme liquide ou solide. Les protocoles de fabrication de l'extrait comprennent, mais ne sont pas limités à l'extraction aqueuse en milieu tamponné des graines d'Artocarpus heterophyllus broyées, suivie par des étapes de filtration pour 25 enlever les résidus insolubles et terminé par une étape de concentration suivie d'un procédé de séchage (lyophilisation ou atomisation) (Siddappa, effect of processing on the trypsine inhibitor in jackfruit seed (Artocarpus integrifolia) , J. Sci.& Indus. Res., Vol 16C(10), pp. 199-201, 1957). The present invention therefore relates to a topical cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises plant lectins or a plant extract concentrated in lectins. The pigmentation synapse between the melanocyte and the keratinocyte involves lectins. These are adhesion receptors that bind to sugar residues present on the surface of cell membranes. The addition of lectins to melanocyte-keratinocyte co-cultures is known to reversibly inhibit the transfer of melanin (Van Den Bossche et al., The Quest for the Iron Melanin Mechanism, Traflex, Vol 7, pp. 769-778, 2006). Lectins can therefore be used as depigmenting agents, complexing agents and anti-taints without skin irritation. The present cosmetic invention can also by its 5-alpha-reductase inhibiting properties (Shimizu et al., The 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors of heartwood of Artocarpus incisus: structure activity investigations, Planta Med, Vol 66, pp. 16-19, 2000) be used as an agent modulating growth of integuments and anti-aging active principle by inhibition of collagenase. The cosmetic invention of course envisages cosmetically acceptable plant lectins and preferably an extract rich in such lectins. The invention is particularly directed to plant lectins called jacaline and artocarpine extracted from Artocarpus heterophyllus belonging to the botanical family Moraceae (Miranda-Santos et al., A crude extract of Artocarpus integrifolia contains two lectins with distinct biological activities, Immunol. Leu., Vol 31 (1), pp. 65-71, 1992). Artocarpus i ieterophyllus is a widespread species in Asia. The present invention thus relates to a topical cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises plant lectins or a plant extract rich in lectins having an inhibitory activity of phagocytosis of melanosomes. It is an isolate of lectins or a lectin-rich extract which can be obtained by extraction and isolation, or even more or less thorough purification, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art. The extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus may be in liquid or solid form. The extraction manufacturing protocols include, but are not limited to buffered aqueous extraction of ground Artocarpus heterophyllus seeds, followed by filtration steps to remove insoluble residues and terminated by a concentration step. followed by a drying process (lyophilization or atomization) (Siddappa, effect of processing on the trypsin inhibitor in jackfruit seed (Artocarpus integrifolia), J. Sci. & Indus Res., Vol 16C (10), pp. 199- 201, 1957).
30 Les compositions cosmétiques objet de l'invention peuvent être utilisées en tant qu'éclaircissant et/ou en tant qu'unificateur du teint et/ou en tant qu'anti-tâches. The cosmetic compositions which are the subject of the invention can be used as a lightener and / or as a complexion modifier and / or as anti-stains.
L'invention a aussi pour objet une composition cosmétique en application topique et ou sur les phanères, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend des lectines 35 végétales ou un extrait végétal concentré en lectines présentant une activité sur la croissance des phanères, ainsi qu'une composition cosmétique en application topique et ou sur les phanères caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend des lectines végétales ou un extrait végétal présentant une activité inhibitrice de la 5-alpha-reductase. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition in topical application and or on integuments, characterized in that it comprises plant lectins or a plant extract concentrated in lectins having an activity on the growth of integuments, and a cosmetic composition for topical application and or on integuments characterized in that it comprises plant lectins or a plant extract having a 5-alpha-reductase inhibitory activity.
Ces dernières compositions cosmétiques, peuvent être utilisées en tant qu'anti-repousse poils et/ou en tant que activateur de la croissance capillaire et/ou en tant qu'agent matifiant. Parmi les compositions objet de l'invention, on retient plus particulièrement une composition cosmétique topique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend des lectines végétales ou un extrait végétal concentré en lectines présentant une activité inhibitrice de la collagénase, et notamment des lectines ou des extraits concentrés en lectines, issus de plantes appartenant à la famille des Moraceae, comme Artocarpus heterophyllus, riche en ces lectines. These latter cosmetic compositions can be used as anti-hair regrowth and / or as an activator of hair growth and / or as a mattifying agent. Among the compositions which are the subject of the invention, a topical cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises plant lectins or a plant extract concentrated in lectins having an activity that inhibits collagenase, and in particular lectins or extracts, is more particularly retained. concentrated in lectins, from plants belonging to the Moraceae family, such as Artocarpus heterophyllus, rich in these lectins.
On retient enfin tout particulièrement une composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend de 0.005 à 10% et de préférence de 0.1 à 5% en poids de la composition totale, de lectines végétales ou d'un extrait végétal riche en ces lectines et notamment celle comprenant une phase aqueuse contenant des lectines végétales ou un extrait végétal riche en ces lectines. Finally, a cosmetic composition as defined above is especially selected, characterized in that it comprises from 0.005 to 10% and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total composition, of plant lectins or of an extract plant rich in these lectins and in particular that comprising an aqueous phase containing plant lectins or a plant extract rich in these lectins.
Les composés actifs dans cette composition cosmétique doivent être libérés par voie topique de toutes les manières connues de l'homme du métier. Si les paramètres de libération topique de l'actif cosmétique sont requis, la composition active par voie topique de cette invention doit être préférablement composée d'un véhicule capable de fonctionner comme système de libération pour permettre la pénétration de l'agent actif par voie topique au niveau de la peau. Un des systèmes acceptables de libération topique de cette invention, particulièrement de lectines, peut être un système de liposomes. D'autres formulations acceptables peuvent contenir, l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus, un émulsionnant qui maintient la stabilité physique de l'extrait, et, éventuellement. un agent chélateur, des conservateurs, des émollients, des humectants et/ou des épaississants ou agents gélifiants. The active compounds in this cosmetic composition must be released topically in all the ways known to those skilled in the art. If the topical release parameters of the cosmetic active are required, the topically active composition of this invention should preferably be composed of a vehicle capable of functioning as a delivery system to allow entry of the active agent topically. at the level of the skin. One of the acceptable topical delivery systems of this invention, particularly lectins, may be a liposome system. Other acceptable formulations may contain Artocarpus heterophyllus extract, an emulsifier that maintains the physical stability of the extract, and possibly. a chelating agent, preservatives, emollients, humectants and / or thickeners or gelling agents.
Des émulsions huile dans eau, eau dans huile, eau dans silicone, émulsions multiples, formulations à base de solvants, gels aqueux, produits moussants connus de l'homme du métier mais aussi utilisés comme véhicules pour la libération de la composition de cette invention. Oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-silicone emulsions, multiple emulsions, solvent-based formulations, aqueous gels, foaming products known to those skilled in the art but also used as vehicles for the release of the composition of this invention.
La composition cosmétique active par voie topique peut être associée à d'autres ingrédients comme des hydratants, des adjuvants cosmétiques, des antioxydants, des agents blancrissants, des inhibiteurs de la tyrosinase et autres agents dépigmentants, des sébo-régulateurs et autres agents matifiants, des agents régulateurs de la croissance ies phanères, des agents anti-collagénase et autres agents anti-age, des surfactants, des agents moussants, des conditionneurs, des humectants, des parfums, des viscosifiants, des tampons, des conservateurs, des filtres et écrans solaires. Il a été montré dans le cadre de la présente invention, une inhibition dose dépendante de la phagocy ose des mélanosomes par les kératinocytes. Par ce mécanisme, des différences significatives de pigmentation ont été observées. Une composition cosmétique comprend donc de 0.005 à 10% et de préférence de 0.1 à 5% en poids de la composition totale de lectines végétales ou d'extrait de plante riche en ces lectines. The topically active cosmetic composition may be combined with other ingredients such as moisturizers, cosmetic adjuvants, antioxidants, whitening agents, tyrosinase inhibitors and other depigmenting agents, sebo-regulators and other mattifying agents, growth regulators, dander, anti-collagenase agents and other anti-aging agents, surfactants, foaming agents, conditioners, humectants, perfumes, viscosifiers, buffers, preservatives, filters and sunscreens . It has been shown in the context of the present invention, a dose-dependent inhibition of phagocyosis of melanosomes by keratinocytes. By this mechanism, significant differences in pigmentation have been observed. A cosmetic composition therefore comprises from 0.005 to 10% and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the total composition of plant lectins or of plant extract rich in these lectins.
EXEMPLES Exemple 1 : Activité inhibitrice de la phagocytose de l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus Dans le but d'étudier le rôle possible de l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus sur la pigmentation, les inventeurs ont mesuré l'effet d'un extrait sec d'Artocarpus heterophyllus riche en jacal7ne et artocarpine sur la phagocytose des mélanosomes par les kératinocytes in vitro. Méthode : Pour la réalisation de ce test une co-culture kératinocytes/mélanocytes a été utilisée. Culture réalisée à 3 C, 5% de CO2 dans un milieu de culture comprenant 2 volumes de NHEK medium pour 1 volume de NHEM medium. Les kératinocytes et les mélanocytes sont ensemencés en co-culture dans des plaques 24 puits. Apres 24 heures de co-culture, les cellules sont traitées avec le composé à tester et incubées pendant 24 heures à 37 C et 5% de CO2. Les billes fluorescentes sont ajoutées la co-culture et les cellules sont incubées 24 heures de plus. A la fin de l'expérience, le surnageant et les billes sont enlevés et les plaques mises à incuber pendant 15 min à 37 C et 5% de CO2 avec le milieu de co-culture additionné de 10% de sérum de veau fcetal. Ensuite les tapis cellulaires sont rincés au tampon phosphate et les cellules sont traitées par de la trypsine pour réaliser l'étude de cytométrie en flux. Toutes ces conditions ont été réalisées en triplicata. L'analyse par cytométrie en flux permet de mesurer la fluorescence et donc d'évaluer l'activité phagocytaire des kératinocytes. EXAMPLES Example 1: Inhibitory activity of the phagocytosis of the extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus In order to study the possible role of the extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus on the pigmentation, the inventors measured the effect of a dry extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus rich in jacalene and artocarpine on phagocytosis of melanosomes by keratinocytes in vitro. Method: For carrying out this test a keratinocyte / melanocyte co-culture was used. Culture carried out at 3 C, 5% CO2 in a culture medium comprising 2 volumes of NHEK medium for 1 volume of medium NHEM. Keratinocytes and melanocytes are inoculated in co-culture in 24-well plates. After 24 hours of co-culture, the cells are treated with the test compound and incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2. Fluorescent beads are added to the co-culture and the cells are incubated for another 24 hours. At the end of the experiment, the supernatant and the beads are removed and the plates incubated for 15 min at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2 with the co-culture medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum. Then the cell mats are rinsed with phosphate buffer and the cells are treated with trypsin to perform the flow cytometry study. All these conditions were realized in triplicate. The flow cytometry analysis makes it possible to measure the fluorescence and thus to evaluate the phagocytic activity of the keratinocytes.
Résultats : Tableau 1 Concentration Pourcentage d'inhibition Significativité 0.04% 25% p<0.01 0.01% 15% p<0.01 0.005% 12% p<0.05 Dans ces conditions expérimentales, l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus testé à 0.04%, 0.01% et 0.005% induit une inhibition de l'activité phagocytaire de manière dose dépendante (Tableau 1). Results: Table 1 Concentration Percentage of inhibition Significance 0.04% 25% p <0.01 0.01% 15% p <0.01 0.005% 12% p <0.05 Under these experimental conditions, Artocarpus heterophyllus extract tested at 0.04%, 0.01% and 0.005% induces an inhibition of phagocytic activity in a dose-dependent manner (Table 1).
L'extrait d'Artocarpe heterophyllus permet donc de diminuer l'activité 10 phagocytaire des kératinocytes en empêchant le transfert de mélanosomes vers les kératinocytes. Artocarp heterophyllus extract therefore makes it possible to reduce the phagocytic activity of keratinocytes by preventing the transfer of melanosomes to the keratinocytes.
Exemple 2 : Activité éclaircissante de l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus en 15 formulation cosmétique testé sur peau asiatique Formule testée (Les pourcentages sont donnés par rapport au poids total de la composition, les ingredients sont mélangés par des méthodes connues de l'homme du métier) : Eau 81.50 % 20 Amisol soft 06.00 % Gomme xanthane 00.50 % Phenonip 00.50 % Isononyl isononanoato 05.00 % Eau 05.50 % 25 Extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus 01.50 % EXAMPLE 2 Lightening Activity of Artocarpus Heterophyllus Extract in Cosmetic Formulation Tested on Asiatic Skin Test Formula (The percentages are given in relation to the total weight of the composition, the ingredients are mixed by methods known to the human being. trade): Water 81.50% 20 Amisol soft 06.00% Xanthan gum 00.50% Phenonip 00.50% Isononyl isononanoato 05.00% Water 05.50% 25 Artocarpus heterophyllus extract 01.50%
Protocole : Une crème formulée à 1.5 % d'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus a été testée sur 21 femmes asiatiques entre 35 et 60 ans, pendant 2 et 3 mois avec une application 30 biquotidienne sur le visage. Chaque sujet étant son propre contrôle. Les sujets sélectionnés, présentent au niveau du visage des taches d'hyperpigmentation. Aucun des sujets n'a utilisé d'agent dépigmentant, éclaircissant ou anti-tâches brunes durant les 6 dernières semaines. L'impact de l'actif sur la coloration cutanée est calculé par chromamétrie, détermination des valeurs L*, a*, b* permettant aussi de calculer l'ITA (Individual Typological Angle) spécifique de la coloration de la peau. Protocol: A cream formulated with 1.5% Artocarpus heterophyllus extract was tested on 21 Asian women between 35 and 60 years, for 2 and 3 months with twice-daily application on the face. Each subject being his own control. The selected subjects present on the face patches of hyperpigmentation. None of the subjects used depigmenting, brightening or brown staining agents during the last 6 weeks. The impact of the active ingredient on the skin coloration is calculated by chromametry, determination of the L *, a *, b * values also making it possible to calculate the ITA (Individual Typological Angle) specific to the coloring of the skin.
Tableau 2 Zone traitée Zone contrôle Comparaison des variations traité _ versus contrôle +2.5% -0.9% p < 1.10-6 Après 2 mois a* -8.0% -0.2% p < 1.10"4 b* +3.0% +0.8% p < 0.05 ITA +14.2% -9.6% p < 1.10-5 L* +2.8% -1.3% p<1.10-6 Après 3 mois a* -15.4% -7.6% p < 0. 01 b* +4.6% +2.7% ns ITA +15.2% -16.0% p < 1.10"5 A2mois : Après 2 mois d'utilisation du produit, des augmentations significatives de la luminance moyenne L* (+ 2.5% ; p<1.10-5), du b* moyen (+3.0% ; p<0.01), et de 10 l'ITA moyen (+14.2% ; p<1.10-4) ont été observées pour la crème contenant l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus. Pendant la même période, une diminution significative du a* moyen a aussi été observée pour les zones traitées (-8 % ; p<l .104). Pendant la même période, aucune variation significative n'a été observée pour le contrôle. Cependant, il faut noter qu'une coloration de la peau au niveau de la zone 15 contrôle a été observée (diminution du L* et de l'ITA) mais de manière non significative. Table 2 Zone treated Control zone Comparison of variations treated _ versus control + 2.5% -0.9% p <1.10-6 After 2 months a * -8.0% -0.2% p <1.10 "4 b * + 3.0% + 0.8% p < 0.05 ITA + 14.2% -9.6% p <1.10-5 L * + 2.8% -1.3% p <1.10-6 After 3 months a * -15.4% -7.6% p <0.01 b * + 4.6% + 2.7% ns ITA + 15.2% -16.0% p <1.10 "5 A2month: After 2 months of use of the product, significant increases in mean luminance L * (+ 2.5%, p <1.10-5), mean b * ( + 3.0%, p <0.01), and mean ITA (+ 14.2%, p <1.10-4) were observed for the cream containing Artocarpus heterophyllus extract. During the same period, a significant decrease in mean * was also observed for the treated areas (-8%, p <l .104). During the same period, no significant variation was observed for the control. However, it should be noted that skin staining at the control zone was observed (decreased L * and ITA) but not significantly.
L'ensemble de ces données nous indiquent un effet éclaircissant significatif à 2 mois grâce à l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus. 20 A3mois : Après 3 mois d'utili:;ation de la formule contenant l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus, une augmentation significative de la luminance moyenne L* a été observée (+2.8% ; p<1.10-4i, du b* moyen (+4.6% ; p<0.01), ainsi que de l'ITA 25 moyen (+15.2% ; p<1.10-3). Une diminution significative du a* moyen a aussi été observée pour la zone traitée (-15.4% ; p<1.10"7).5 7 Il faut noter qu'après 3 mois de test des diminutions significatives de la luminance moyenne L* (-1.3% ; p<0.05), du a* moyen (-7.6% ; p<1.10'3) et de l'ITA moyen (-16.0% ; p<0.05) ont été observées pour les zones non traitées. Une augmentation significative (lu b* moyen a aussi été constatée pour les zones contrôles (+2.7% ; p<0.05). L'ensemble de ces données confirme les résultats observés à 2 mois cad que la formule contenant l'extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus induit un éclaircissement significatif des zones traitées (augmentation du L* et de l'ITA moyens). Il faut noter que durant les 3 mois de l'étude, une coloration des zones to contrôles a été observée (diminution du L* et de l'ITA). Cette coloration due à des variations saisonnières d'exposition au soleil a été progressive mais est devenue significative entre le 2éme et le 3éme mois de l'étude. All these data indicate a significant lightening effect at 2 months thanks to the extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus. 20 months: After 3 months of use of the formula containing the extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus, a significant increase in the average luminance L * was observed (+ 2.8%, p <1.10-4i, b * mean (+ 4.6%, p <0.01), as well as the mean ITA (+ 15.2%, p <1.10-3) .A significant decrease in average a * was also observed for the treated zone (-15.4%). p <1.10 "7) .5 7 It should be noted that after 3 months of testing significant decreases in mean luminance L * (-1.3%, p <0.05), average * (-7.6%; 1.10'3) and mean ITA (-16.0%, p <0.05) were observed for untreated areas, and a significant increase (mean b *) was also observed for control areas (+ 2.7%; <0.05) All these data confirm the results observed at 2 months, ie that the formula containing the extract of Artocarpus heterophyllus induces a significant lightening of the treated areas (increase of the average L * and ITA). It should be noted that during During the 3 months of the study, a staining of zones to controls was observed (decrease in L * and ITA). This staining due to seasonal variations in sun exposure was gradual but became significant between the 2nd and 3rd month of the study.
Exemple 3 : 15 Compositions cosmétiques utiles selon l'invention Les pourcentages sont donnés par rapport au poids total des compositions, les ingrédients sont mélangés par des méthodes connues de l'homme du métier. Crème de nuit anti-age 20 Eau qsp 100% Glycérine 04.00 % Dermosoft GMCY 00.50 % Gomme xanthane 00.50 % 25 Biophilic H 04.00 % Huile de tournesol biologique 05.00 % Huile de noisette biologique 05.00 Cire d'abeille 04.00 % 30 Dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO 00.20 % Beurre de karité biologique 03.00 % Eau 04.50 % Extrait d'Artocarpus heterophyllus t 01.50 % 35 Maltodextrine 00.50 % Mamaku vital essence Nature Ph 02.00 % Sorbate de potassium 00.30 % Parfum sensuelle 00.40 % Crème main anti-tâche: : Eau Glycérine Dermosoft LP Biophilic S Gomme xanthane Tocophérol qsp 100% 02.00 % 01.00% 05.00 % 00.30 % 00.20 DC 9045 (Cyclopentasiloxane + dimethicone crosspolymer) 01.00 % DC 345 (Cyclopentasloxane) 02.00 % DC 200-350 (Dimethicone) 01.00 % Eau 05.00 % Extrait d'Artocarpus neterophyllus 01.50 0/0 Maltodextrine 00.50 % Hydraporine 04.00 % Kaolin 02.00 Lait pour le corps anti-repousse poils Eau qsp 100% Glycérine 04.00 % Xanthane 00.40 Dermosoft GMCY 00.50 % Emulmetik 320 02.00 % Beurre de karité biologique 03.00 % Huile d'amande douci, biologique 02.00 % Dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO 00.20 % Dermosoft GSC 01.00 % Eau 05.50 % Extrait d 'Artocarpus üeterophyllus 01.50 % Maltodextrine 00.50 %35 Eau Sorbate de potassium Parfum sensorielle 02.00 % 00.30 % 00.40 % Formule solaire éclaircissante : Eau Eusolex UV pearl Xanthane Glycérine Dermofeel PA3 15 Biophilic H Example 3: Useful cosmetic compositions according to the invention Percentages are given with respect to the total weight of the compositions, the ingredients are mixed by methods known to those skilled in the art. Anti-aging night cream 20 Water qs 100% Glycerin 04.00% Dermosoft GMCY 00.50% Xanthan gum 00.50% 25 Biophilic H 04.00% Organic sunflower oil 05.00% Organic hazelnut oil 05.00 Beeswax 04.00% 30 Dermofeel Toco 70 non GMO 00.20% Organic Shea Butter 03.00% Water 04.50% Artocarpus Heterophyllus t 01.50% 35 Maltodextrin 00.50% Essential Mamaku Essence Nature Ph 02.00% Potassium Sorbate 00.30% Sensual Perfume 00.40% Hand Cream Anti-Task:: Water Glycerin Dermosoft LP Biophilic S Xanthan gum Tocopherol qs 100% 02.00% 01.00% 05.00% 00.30% 00.20 DC 9045 (Cyclopentasiloxane + dimethicone crosspolymer) 01.00% DC 345 (Cyclopentasloxane) 02.00% DC 200-350 (Dimethicone) 01.00% Water 05.00% Artocarpus extract neterophyllus 01.50 0/0 Maltodextrin 00.50% Hydraporine 04.00% Kaolin 02.00 Anti-hair regrowth body lotion Water qs 100% Glycerin 04.00% Xanthan 00.40 Dermosoft GMCY 00.50% Emulmetik 320 02.00% Butter of ka biological rite 03.00% Organic sweetened almond oil 02.00% Dermofeel Toco 70 no GMO 00.20% Dermosoft GSC 01.00% Water 05.50% Artocarpus üeterophyllus extract 01.50% Maltodextrine 00.50% 35 Water Potassium sorbate Sensory fragrance 02.00% 00.30% 00.40% Lightening Solar Formula: Water Eusolex UV Pearl Xanthan Glycerin Dermofeel PA3 15 Biophilic H
Parsol 1789 Parsol SLX Dermofeel BGC 20 Beurre de karité Lanette 16 DC 345(Cyclopentasi oxane) Parsol 1789 Parsol SLX Dermofeel BGC 20 Shea Butter Lanette 16 DC 345 (Cyclopentasi Oxane)
Dermosoft 1388 qsp 100 % 15.00 % 00.40 % 04.00 % 00.20 % 04.00 % Dermosoft 1388 qs 100% 15.00% 00.40% 04.00% 00.20% 04.00%
04.00 % 04.00 04.00 % 00.50 % 00.60 % 01.50 % 04.00% 04.00 04.00% 00.50% 00.60% 01.50%
04.00 % 05.00 % 01.50 % 00.50 % Eau Extrait d 'Artocarpus i!eterophyllus Maltodextrine 25 30 Liftessence nature Parfum monoï 3036 02.00 cYo 00.40 % 35 04.00% 05.00% 01.50% 00.50% Water Artocarpus i! Eterophyllus extract Maltodextrin 25 30 Liftessence nature Monoi scent 3036 02.00 cYo 00.40% 35
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| CN103211732A (en) * | 2013-04-28 | 2013-07-24 | 江南大学 | Preparation method and application of mixture with tyrosinase inhibitory activity |
| FR3044554A1 (en) * | 2015-12-08 | 2017-06-09 | Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF AN EXTRACT OF HARUNGANA MADAGASCARIENSIS |
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| P. TENGAMNUAY, K. PENGRUNGRUANGWONG, I. PHEANSRI, K. LIKHITWITAYAWUID: "Artocarpus lakoocha heartwood extract as a novel cosmetic ingredient: evaluation of the in vitro anti-tyrosinase and in vivo skin whitening activities", INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE, vol. 28, no. 4, August 2006 (2006-08-01), pages 269 - 276, XP002457793 * |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103211732A (en) * | 2013-04-28 | 2013-07-24 | 江南大学 | Preparation method and application of mixture with tyrosinase inhibitory activity |
| FR3044554A1 (en) * | 2015-12-08 | 2017-06-09 | Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL USE OF AN EXTRACT OF HARUNGANA MADAGASCARIENSIS |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2914858B1 (en) | 2012-09-21 |
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