FR2905865A1 - Preparation of a topical composition, useful to brighten skin, comprises percolation of a fluid under pressure through vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarin and/or vegetable substances containing vitamin C - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of a composition for topical application, comprises percolation of a fluid under pressure through vegetable substances in solid or pasty form, containing sugar derivatives of coumarin and/or vegetable substances containing vitamin C. Independent claims are included for: (1) the composition susceptible to be obtained by the process; (2) treating keratinous matters, comprising preparing a cosmetic composition by the given process and applying the composition on the keratinous matter; (3) a receptacle, in the form of a packet or a capsule, for percolation under pressure through a fluid and susceptible to be used to implement the given process, defining a housing containing the vegetable substances containing the sugar derivatives of coumarin and/or vitamin C, in solid or pasty form; and (4) a kit for implementing the process, comprising receptacles containing the vegetable substances and a receptacle containing a medium.

Description

Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition having an effect

  The present invention relates to a process for the preparation of a composition for topical application, containing vegetable substances precursors of lightening compounds. The subject of the invention is also the composition obtained and its use for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular skin and human keratinous fibers such as the hair. More particularly, the compositions considered according to the invention may constitute a skincare product and especially a facial product having lightening properties. It is known that during the aging process, various signs appear on the human skin, very characteristic of this aging, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and cutaneous function. The main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles increased with age, and the disorganization of the skin grain, that is to say that the micro-relief is less regular and has an anisotropic character. In addition, the complexion of the skin is generally modified; it appears paler and more yellow, which seems to be due essentially to a disorganization of microcirculation (less hemoglobin in the papillary dermis). In addition, colored spots appear on the surface, which is due to altered melanogenesis. On the other hand, a number of people with colored or even dark skin are looking for cosmetic compositions for lightening the skin. To obtain this effect, it is generally used cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing one or more lightening agents. However, to obtain a significant lightening effect, these compositions must firstly comprise high amounts of lightening agents, and secondly be used for a long time. Indeed, in most cases, it is not observed immediate lightening effect from the application of compositions comprising said lightening agents. As representative of the lightening agents commonly used, mention may be made of agents with optical effect and in particular optical brighteners 40. Such agents possess the ability to induce, under appropriate conditions of use, a change in the visual appearance of the surface to which they are applied. However, optical brighteners are difficult to synthesize. The use of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is also known. However, this compound poses problems of instability, leading in particular to the appearance of color in the composition containing it, and it is necessary to stabilize vitamin C to have cosmetically acceptable compositions, that is to say having neither color neither odor nor instability. There remains therefore the need for lightening cosmetic compositions, which do not emit color in an UV medium or in a visible medium, and which, when applied to the skin, give a particular radiance to the complexion. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using a method of percolation of particular plant substances, bioconvertible compounds can be obtained which, when applied to the skin, are converted by the skin enzymes into compounds. having lightening properties. The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain concentrated plant extracts giving a radiance effect to the complexion. The invention thus relates to a process for preparing a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under pressure through one or more vegetable substances in solid or pasty form, at least one plant substance being selected from vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarins, plant substances containing vitamin C and mixtures thereof. By vegetable substance is meant any substance belonging to the plant domain (trees, plants, leaves, flowers). Thus, the plant substance can come from woods, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, barks, pulps, peels, berries, beans and seeds of 25 plants. The term "sugar derivatives of coumarins" means coumarin derivatives containing a sugar, especially a saccharide unit such as glucosyl or glucopyranosyl, compounds which will lighten the skin's complexion. These are generally hydroxylated coumarin derivatives containing a glucoside unit such as esculoside (or esculin or dihydrxycoumarin glucoside) which is obtained from chestnut leaves and bark. By vegetable substance containing vitamin C, is meant a plant naturally rich in vitamin C, that is to say, containing in sufficient quantity so that vitamin C is active on the complexion of the skin and lighten it. Since the composition prepared according to the process of the invention is intended for topical application and in particular for application to keratin materials, it is physiologically acceptable. Physiologically acceptable composition means a non-toxic composition that can be applied to keratin materials and is pleasant to use. By keratin materials is meant the skin, the scalp, the lips, and / or the integuments such as the nails, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. The composition may be in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition. The percolation step makes it possible to obtain a plant extract, and the composition may consist of the extract as obtained by the claimed process or it may contain the extract and a physiologically acceptable medium containing or not containing other compounds usually used in the cosmetics field. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, and in particular for the lightening of the skin. The invention finally relates to a packaging device for implementing the preparation method of the present invention. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. Percolation process The percolation process is carried out according to the usual percolation technique. A fluid is passed whose temperature is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., preferably from 30 ° C. to 150 ° C., and still more preferably from 40 ° C. to 120 ° C., under a pressure of preferably at least 20 ° C. 3 bar (3.105 Pa), for a very short period of time, less than one minute, through at least one plant substance in solid or pasty form, preferably in solid form, and more preferably in powder form. This process leads to the production of a stable plant extract ready for use, intended to be used rapidly after it has been obtained, for example within 5 minutes of obtaining it, in particular after cooling to a cosmetically acceptable temperature, preferably below 60 C. This extract can be used up to a week after it is obtained. Given the very short preparation time, the plant extracts obtained by the method described above and the cosmetic compositions containing them can be prepared "on demand" by mixing the plant extracts and other active ingredients according to the desired cosmetic properties. According to another embodiment, the vegetable substances can be packaged in a ready-to-use device, and it is not necessary to determine beforehand the concentrations of the vegetable substances in solution, which limits the measurement errors. of the user. In addition, the method according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the use of multi-compartment bottles, which makes the process particularly economical and safer for the user. Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium permitting the passage of fluid under the action or effect of pressure. The fluid may consist of steam optionally with liquid water, or one or more liquid solvents and / or 5o gaseous physiologically acceptable, in particular organic, or by a mixture of steam and water. water possibly accompanied by liquid water, and one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents. Preferably, the fluid comprises at least water vapor which may be accompanied by liquid water, and even more preferably it is water vapor which may be accompanied by liquid water. As organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The percolation fluid may also be mineral water such as, for example, Vichy waters (Lucas springs, hospital, Grande Grille); the water of La Roche Posay, the water of Avène, the water of Vittel. One or more solvents can also be added as indicated above. The process of the present invention may be carried out using a conventional device for generating a fluid under pressure, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and even more preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 150 ° C. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber equipped with a thermal block, as well as a circuit for conveying the fluid produced to the plant extract. According to another embodiment, the device comprises a reservoir of liquid (s) and a pump for conveying the liquid or liquids to the chamber. The liquid in the reservoir is the percolating fluid as described above. A particularly useful device for carrying out the process of the present invention is an espresso type coffee machine. Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in documents AT-A-168405, US-A-2688911, DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-1265636, and in the applications FR0650303, FR0650304, FR0650306, FR0650308. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the percolation step is carried out with a fluid at a temperature greater than 30 ° C., preferably between 30 ° C. and 150 ° C., under a pressure preferably from minus 3 bar, better at least 4 bar, preferably at least 10 bar and most preferably between 10 and 30 bar. The vegetable substance (s), in solid or pasty form, may be used directly, in the device generating the fluid under pressure, in a container intended for this purpose. They may also be packaged in a particular packaging device of the single dose type comprising a closed housing delimited by at least one wall at least partly permeable to a fluid under pressure of at least 3 bar. Such devices are, for example, described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753. These conditioning devices are generally airtight, moisture and / or light. According to a particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid.

  These devices can be made from woven or non-woven materials, plastic or vegetable, for example, cellulose, metal such as aluminum or composite. Such devices are for example described in WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A-99/03753.

  The subject of the invention is also a container, in particular in the form of a sachet or a capsule, adapted to percolation under pressure by a fluid route, the container delimiting at least one housing containing at least one plant substance in solid form or pasty, chosen from vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarin, vegetable substances containing vitamin C and their mixtures, and in particular from the bark of Skimmia japonica, horse chestnut leaves and barks, and mixtures thereof. As indicated above, the housing may be delimited by two sealed sheets, or it may be delimited by a tray closed by a lid. The process described above may comprise only the percolation step, but it may also comprise one or more subsequent stages of mixing with a physiologically acceptable medium and / or with one or more additives used in cosmetics. Vegetal substance To prepare the plant extract, it is possible to use any plant substance containing a sweet derivative of coumarin or vitamin C, this substance being in solid form or in pasty form, preferably in solid form, and even more preferably under powdery form. In the present invention, solid form is understood to mean a compound or a composition in the form of a tablet (or tablet), a sheet 40 or a powder, a powder being a finely divided solid, for example opposition to a composition in the form of cream or gel which are flexible compositions. In addition, the term "powder" means a compound or a composition in the form of a powder (consisting of particles or grains).

In the sense of the present invention, pasty form means an intermediate consistency between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa.s, and even more preferably greater than 1 Pa.s, this at 25 ° C. with a shear rate of 10 s -1.

As vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarin, mention may be made of substances containing glucosidic derivatives of coumarin having one or more hydroxy groups, such as: Skimmia japonica bark, which contains 7-hydroxycoumarin 7-glucoside (or umbelliferone glucoside), -the leaves and barks of horse chestnut, which contain esculin or 6,7-dihydroxycoumarin 6-glucoside. As vegetable substances containing vitamin C, there may be mentioned, for example, the fruits of Eglantier (rose hips), broccoli, horseradish, parsley. In addition to vegetable substances containing a sweet derivative of coumarin or vitamin C, there may be one or more other vegetable substances which may come from woods, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, bark, pulp, peel, berries, beans and seeds of plants, such as: - for their softening properties: apricot, blueberry, white broth, chamomile, chamomile, poppy, fenugreek, marshmallow, flax, lily, mallow, marigold, elder, linden, coltsfoot, psyllium, plantain, quince, peach, orange, cactus, apple; - for their anti-inflammatory properties: agrimony, hawthorn, heather, quackgrass, juniper, marshmallow, elderberry, linden, fenugreek, gentian, lettuce, wild pansy, plantain, the bramble, the rosemary, the sage, the tamier, the tussilage, the immortelle, the daisy; - for their antipruritic properties: alchemilla, lavender, walnut, plantain, scabieuse, cabbage, chervil, clematis, cucumber, comfrey, aristoloche, burdock, white broth, chamomile Roman, euphraise, climbing ivy; - for their antiseptic properties: garlic, agrimony, blueberry, burdock, oak, comfrey, eucalyptus, juniper, rose geranium, laurel, lavender, marjoram, mint, pine, rosemary, sandalwood, thyme, thyme, sage, honeysuckle, immortelle, daisy, tansy; - for their antiperspirant properties: sage, oak, walnut, pine, horsetail, coltsfoot; - for their astringent properties: yarrow, agrimony, alchemilla, strawberry tree, mugwort, comfrey, cypress, oak, rose hips, witch hazel, black mulberry, blueberry , hazel, walnut, nettle, poplar, plantain, bramble, ratanhia, rose, loosestrife, willow, tormentil, red vine, sweetclover; - for their calming properties: carrots, wild pansies, elderberries, linden, passionflower, basil, camphor, pear, apple, vine, lettuce, rose, ginger; - for their healing properties: St. John's wort, potentilla anserine, marigold, feverfew, Roman chamomile, comfrey, yarrow, wormwood, agrimony, sagebrush, 5o arnica, chervil myrtle, periwinkle, plantain, poplar, primrose, sage, seneon, elder, verbena, angelica, aristoloche, alder, aurone, bistort, birch, blessed thistle, juniper, loquat, eucalyptus, vulnerary, benoite, centaury, cabbage, houseleek, strawberry, horsetail, meadow queen, coltsfoot, wild pansy, burdock, daisy, lily; - for their invigorating properties: St. John's wort, wild rose, mistletoe, maté, cassier, absinthe, arnica, calament, cinnamon, geranium, hyssop, marjoram, lemon balm, parsley, Scots pine, rosemary, savory, wild thyme, basil, rose hips, gentian, hops, bay leaves, mint, sage, tormentil, yarrow, garlic , benoit, bistort, oak, quince, cypress, horse chestnut, loquat, walnut, nettle, plantain, water pear, cinquefoil, knotweed, loosestrife, veronica, angelica, sagebrush, asparagus, juniper, mustard, cinchona, fumitory, nasturtium, watercress, kelp, butcher's broom, tansy; - for their properties promoting the retention of blood and lymphatic microcirculation: blackcurrant, blueberry and grape seeds; for their texturing properties: wheat, fucus; - for their antioxidant properties: rice, rosemary, sage, thyme, green tea, licorice; - for their foaming or emulsifying properties: saponaria, ivy, birch, panama wood, quillaja, sarsaparilla, quino, soya, citrus fruit such as lemon; for their photoprotective properties: sunflower, licorice, magnolia, kaemperia; - for their thickening or absorbing properties: peas, wheat, maize; and 30 - for their fragrant properties: rosemary, violet, lavender, and rose. More particularly, the vegetable substances used in the process according to the present invention are those containing polyphenols and oligomers of the flavonoid classes, such as: the substances containing flavonols and oligomers of flavonols, which are for example in the lemon peel; licorice roots; grape seeds and black currants; green tea leaves, pine bark; hawthorn berries; pods and cocoa beans; - substances containing flavones, which are for example in chamomile flowers and skullcap root; substances containing flavanes, which are for example in flower petals (cotton, etc.); substances containing isoflavones, which are, for example, in soybean seed; - substances containing flavanones, which are for example in pine bark, citrus peel (orange, lemon ..) - substances containing chalcones, which are for example in citrus peel and skin of Apple ; Arylchroman-containing substances, which are for example in campeche wood and brazil wood; - substances containing anthocyanidins, which are for example in seeds and leaves of sorghum, pods and cocoa beans; s - substances containing coumarin derivatives, which are for example in the bark of Skimmia japonica; - and their mixtures. The vegetable substance or substances may be used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty adjuvants, and preferably pulverulent. Once the percolation is complete, these adjuvants remain in the percolator. The adjuvants may be selected from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes, pigments, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, mono or disaccharides such as glucose, sucrose, sorbitol, fructose, zinc, zirconium, resin particles such as silicone or silicates, talc, polyaspartic acid, calcium borosilicates, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), cellulose and its derivatives, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, optionally modified starch, corn kernels, polydimethylsiloxane gums, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sawdust, fucus powder, flour or extracts of wheat, rice, peas, lupine, soya, barley, cross-linked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, particles poly (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile), especially those sold under the name Expancel by the company Akzo Nobel, and mixtures thereof.

When one or more adjuvants are present, the vegetable substance (s) are present preferably in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the vegetable substance (s) and adjuvants. Composition The composition obtained according to the method of the invention contains the plant extract (s) obtained by percolation, and may contain any other adjuvant added during or after the percolation step.

From the preparation process of the invention, a plant extract is obtained which can constitute a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and which can be applied directly to the keratin materials. Moreover, this extract may be mixed with a cosmetically acceptable medium optionally containing one or more additives or active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics. It is also possible to mix at least two compositions obtained by the method of the invention. Depending on whether the process described above comprises only the percolation step or that it comprises one or more subsequent stages of mixing the extract obtained with a physiologically acceptable medium, the composition obtained may contain only the plant extract or it may additionally contain the additives of the physiologically acceptable medium added after the percolation step.

The invention also relates to a particularly cosmetic composition obtained by the method according to the invention. This composition has the advantage of being free from preservatives. A particular embodiment of the invention consists in applying the composition obtained via a device that does not require human intervention and possibly equipped with a cooling means. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process as defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratin material. The keratinous material is preferably the skin. More specifically, the invention further relates to a cosmetic process for lightening the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition obtained by the process according to the invention. The application to keratin materials may be carried out for example by means of an operator or by means of a device that does not require human intervention. The duration of application can vary between 15 seconds 25 and 1 hour. The amount of vegetable extract (s) present in the composition obtained by the process of the present invention is in general between 0.01 and 99% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 50% by weight. and still more preferably between 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the plant extract obtained by the process of the present invention is mixed with a physiologically acceptable medium, this medium may have different galenic forms, and may be for example aqueous or anhydrous, or in the form of emulsions, and be fluid creamy or solid. The aqueous medium comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent to solubilize compounds that are not sufficiently soluble in water. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example lower alkanols C1-C4, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvents are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight. Depending on the desired dosage form, this aqueous medium may comprise any additive usually required to obtain the desired galenic; for example, if it is desired to have an emulsion, fatty substances such as oils, and possibly emulsifiers, are added.

By way of examples of such additives, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, agents inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as that, for example, silicone oils, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents, but also oils, waxes, gums, colored or pearlescent pigments. The above additives are generally present including for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions. considered. The pH of the composition is generally between 3 and 8, and preferably between 4 and 7. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics or else using classic buffers. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Among the alkalinizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium.

The physiologically acceptable medium may also be anhydrous, and for example a dry support such as a thin film as described, for example, in EP-A-1588694, or an atomized powder as described for example in EP-A- 938892, which are powders comprising modified starch 45 and an oily phase, or a pulverulent composition of the Chamallows type, as described, for example, in EP-A-966956 and EP-A-968702. The physiologically acceptable medium may also be an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (W / O / W or W / O / H) emulsion, prepared as described herein. In conventional manner with or without emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). When the emulsion is multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase in which the primary emulsion is introduced. The emulsions contain in the oily phase at least one oil chosen from oils usually used in the cosmetics field. This medium may also contain one or more active agents chosen from those usually used in the field concerned. As active ingredients, vitamins (vitamin A or retinol, vitamin C and vitamin C derivatives such as esters, vitamin E or tocopherol, vitamin K, vitamin PP or B3 or niacinamide) may be used, alone or in mixtures, as well as their derivatives and in particular their esters; keratolytic and / or desquamating agents such as 33-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, ahydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, ascorbic acid and its derivatives; anti-inflammatory agents; soothing agents; moisturizing agents; mattifying agents; anti-acne agents; anti-inflammatory agents; and their mixtures.

Depending on the dry support used, the final composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form suitable for treating keratinous substances, and in particular keratinous fibers. , and skin. The composition obtained may constitute in particular a skin care product, having, in addition to the lightening effect, a nourishing, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti-drying effect or any other application of skincare. It can also be a makeup product.

Another embodiment consists in preparing at least two compositions according to the method of the invention, in mixing them, and optionally adding a cosmetically acceptable medium and / or one or more additives conventionally used in cosmetics as described above. then to apply the composition obtained on the keratin materials.

The invention also relates to a kit for carrying out the method as defined above, comprising one or more containers as defined above, and one or more containers containing a physiologically acceptable medium. This kit makes it possible to obtain a composition according to the invention wherein the percolation extract is added to a physiologically acceptable medium which may be an emulsion, a dry support or any other cosmetic dosage form as described above. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention.

Example 1: Place 3 g of Rosehip fruit in a capsule and put the capsule in a commercial espresso machine. This powder mixture is then passed through the water vapor produced by the machine until a composition (A) having a final volume of 15 ml is obtained. The extract is collected in a moisturizing emulsion which constitutes 80% by weight of the composition.

The moisturizing emulsion has the following composition: Phase A 1 2 0/0 Methyl-glucose sesquistearate (Glucate SS) Stearyl alcohol / Ceteareth-0/0 10 Preservatives 0.1 0/0 Vaseline oil 4 0/0 Phase A2 5 0/0 Cyclopentasiloxane 15 Phase B1 Glycerin 7 0/0 Sodium magnesium silicate (clay) 0.5% Demineralized water Qsp 80 0/0 Preservatives 0.25 0/0 20 Phase B2 3% PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate (Glucamate SSE 20) Demineralized water 19% Phase C 2% NYLON-12 (ORGASOL) 30 Polyamide fibers (Nylon-66) 5% (Polyamide 0.9 Dtex, 0.3 mm - Paul Bonte Company) 35 Phase D 0, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Procedure: The Al and A2 phases are heated separately (at about 70 ° C.) with stirring and then mixed. Similarly, the phases B1 and B2 are heated separately (at about 70 C) with stirring and then mixed. The mixture of B1 and B2 is then poured into the mixture of Al and A2 with stirring. Phase C and then phase D are then added and homogenized. To this composition is added 20 ml of the aqueous extract. An emulsion that can be used for the radiance of the complexion is then obtained. Example 2: Water vapor was passed according to the same procedure as that of Example 1, on 5 g of Skimmia japonica bark powder. The obtained aqueous extract (15 ml) is collected in a beaker containing a dry support containing adenosine, a dry support which dissolves in contact with the extract. Composition of an anhydrous film-type dry support 5 Hydroxypropyl-methylcellulose 10% Glycerine 5 0/0 Panthenol 2 Adenosine 0.15 0/0 Purified water 50 0/0 Procedure for preparing the film: the mixture is mixed together ingredients. The mixture is deposited on a silicone paper using standard roll or doctor coating techniques, in a thickness of the order of 500 μm.

After drying in a hot air tunnel at a temperature of about 50 ° C, the resulting film is cut to the desired shape, for example in the form of 25 mm square wafers. The vegetable extract obtained after percolation is added to a thin film. A fluid composition applicable to the skin and having a noticeable effect on the radiance of the complexion is then obtained.

Claims (17)

  1. A process for preparing a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating fluid under pressure through one or more vegetable substances in solid or pasty form, at least one plant substance being chosen among vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarins, vegetable substances containing vitamin C and mixtures thereof. i0   2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fluid is constituted by water vapor optionally accompanied by liquid water, or by one or more liquid and / or gaseous solvents physiologically acceptable, or by a mixture of steam optionally with liquid water, and one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and / or gaseous solvents.   3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pressure is at least 3 bar and preferably at least 4 bar.   4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the temperature is greater than 30 C.   5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vegetable substance (s) containing sugar derivatives of coumarins or of vitamin C are chosen from among the bark of Skimmia japonica, the leaves and bark of horse chestnut, the fruits of Eglantier, and their mixtures. 30   6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vegetable substance (s) containing sugar derivatives of coumarins or of vitamin C are used in admixture with one or more vegetable substances chosen from substances containing flavonols and oligomers of flavonols, substances containing flavones, substances containing flavanes, substances containing isoflavones, substances containing flavanones, substances containing chalcones, substances containing arylchroman, substances containing anthocyanidins, substances containing coumarin derivatives, and mixtures thereof. 40   7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vegetable substance or substances are used in admixture with one or more solid or pasty additives. 45   8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more subsequent stages of mixing with a physiologically acceptable medium. 2905865 15   9. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium, an anhydrous medium or an emulsion. 5   10. A composition obtainable by the process according to any one of the preceding claims.   11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is free of preservative.   12. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, and that this composition is applied to the keratinous material.   13. A cosmetic process for lightening the skin, comprising applying to the skin a composition obtained by the method according to any one of claims 1 to 9.   14. Container, especially in the form of a sachet or a capsule, adapted for fluid pressure percolation and capable of being used for carrying out the process according to claim 1, the container delimiting at least one housing containing at least one vegetable substance in solid or pasty form, selected from vegetable substances containing sugar derivatives of coumarin, plant substances containing vitamin C and mixtures thereof.   15. Container according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets.   16. Container according to claim 14, characterized in that the housing is delimited by a tray closed by a lid.   17. Kit for carrying out the process according to any one of claims 8 and 9, comprising one or more containers according to any one of claims 14 to 16, and one or more containers containing a physiologically acceptable medium. 15 30