FR2903009A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises useful e.g. to treat skin pathologies related to abnormal exfoliation, such as the xerosis, ichtyosis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, a desquamating agent and a C-glycoside derivative - Google Patents
Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises useful e.g. to treat skin pathologies related to abnormal exfoliation, such as the xerosis, ichtyosis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, a desquamating agent and a C-glycoside derivative Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2903009A1 FR2903009A1 FR0606035A FR0606035A FR2903009A1 FR 2903009 A1 FR2903009 A1 FR 2903009A1 FR 0606035 A FR0606035 A FR 0606035A FR 0606035 A FR0606035 A FR 0606035A FR 2903009 A1 FR2903009 A1 FR 2903009A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- composition
- propane
- fucopyranoside
- propan
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Toxicology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
1 La présente invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique et/ouThe present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and / or
dermatologique utile notamment pour favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou stimuler le renouvellement épidermique, comprenant l'association d'au moins un agent desquamant en une teneur allant de 0,001 à 95% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition et d'au moins un dérivé C-glycoside. Il peut notamment s'agir d'une composition de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières et/ou des fibres kératiniques. Au sens de l'invention, on entend désigner par matières et/ou fibres kératiniques , par exemple, la peau, les muqueuses, le cuir chevelu, les cils, les sourcils et les cheveux. Par peau , on entend au sens large la peau et les semi-muqueuses (lèvres). La desquamation est un phénomène naturel lié au fait que l'épiderme, qui constitue la couche supérieure de la peau et du cuir chevelu, est en constante régénération. L'épiderme est constitué de plusieurs assises de cellules, dont la plus profonde est l'assise basale constituée de cellules indifférenciées. Au cours du temps, ces cellules vont se différencier et migrer vers la surface de l'épiderme en constituant les différentes assises de celui-ci, jusqu'à former à la surface de l'épiderme les cornéocytes qui sont des cellules mortes qui s'éliminent par desquamation. Cette perte en surface est compensée par la migration de cellules de l'assise basale vers la surface de l'épiderme. Il s'agit du renouvellement perpétuel de la peau. Une élimination forcée de la couche cornée accélère le renouvellement et permet de lutter contre le vieillissement. Dans le même temps ces cellules poursuivent leur différenciation dont le dernier stade est le cornéocyte. Il s'agit en fait de cellules mortes qui constituent la dernière couche de l'épiderme, c'est à dire la couche la plus externe encore appelée stratum ralentissement du renouvellement épidermique et par conséquent un vieillissement de la peau, et/ou un épaississement de la couche cornée (ex : formation de callosités), et/ou des désordres desquamatifs de type esthétique (ex : pellicules, squames...) ou pathologique (ex : xéroses, ichtyoses, psoriasis, dermatite atopique). corneum. Il est connu que le processus de desquamation peut être altéré par des facteurs exogènes (ex : rayonnement UV, pollution, agents allergènes, pathogènes), et/ou endogènes (ex : changements hormonaux, âge...) et conduire notamment à un 2903009 2 Pour ce qui est plus particulièrement du vieillissement cutané, résultant de facteurs intrinsèques ou extrinsèques, il se traduit généralement par l'apparition de rides et ridules, par le jaunissement de la peau qui développe un aspect parcheminé accompagné de l'apparition de taches pigmentaires, par la désorganisation des fibres d'élastine et de 5 collagène entraînant une perte d'élasticité, de souplesse et de fermeté ou par l'apparition de télangiectasies. Certains de ces signes du vieillissement sont plus particulièrement liés au vieillissement intrinsèque ou physiologique, c'est-à-dire au vieillissement "normal" lié à l'âge ou chronobiologique, alors que d'autres sont plus spécifiques du vieillissement 10 extrinsèque, c'est-à-dire du vieillissement provoqué d'une manière générale par l'environnement; il s'agit plus particulièrement du photovieillissement dû à l'exposition au soleil, à la lumière ou à tout autre rayonnement. Les changements de la peau dus au vieillissement intrinsèque sont la conséquence d'une sénescence génétiquement programmée où interviennent des facteurs 15 endogènes. Ce vieillissement intrinsèque provoque notamment un ralentissement du renouvellement des cellules de la peau, ce qui se traduit essentiellement par l'apparition d'altérations cliniques telles que la réduction du tissu adipeux sous-cutané et l'apparition de fines rides ou ridules, et par des changements histopathologiques tels qu'une augmentation du nombre et de l'épaisseur des fibres élastiques, une perte de fibres verticales de la 20 membrane du tissu élastique, et la présence de grands fibroblastes irréguliers dans les cellules de ce tissu élastique. Au contraire, le vieillissement extrinsèque entraîne des altérations cliniques telles que des rides épaisses et la formation d'une peau molle et tannée, et des changements histopathologiques tels qu'une excessive accumulation de matière élastique dans le derme 25 supérieur et une dégénérescence des fibres de collagène. L'invention s'intéresse notamment au vieillissement intrinsèque ou physiologique ainsi qu'au vieillissement extrinsèque. On connaît dans l'art antérieur divers agents destinés à lutter contre le vieillissement cutané, parmi lesquels des agents antioxydants, des agents favorisant la 30 prolifération et/ou la différenciation des cellules dermiques et/ou épidermiques, des agents stimulant l'expression des macromolécules dermiques ou épidermiques, soit autant 2903009 3 d'agents que de cibles cellulaires ou moléculaires dans la peau pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les effets multiples du vieillissement cutané. Ainsi, le brevet US-A-4603146 décrit l'emploi d'acide rétinoïque et de ses dérivés dans des compositions cosmétiques, en vue de lutter contre le vieillissement 5 cutané.. A ces agents destinés à lutter contre le vieillissement cutané s'ajoutent également les agents desquamants. D'une manière générale, les agents desquamants agissent en facilitant l'élimination des cellules mortes situées à la surface de la couche cornée de l'épiderme. Cette propriété "desquamante" est aussi appelée, souvent à tort, propriété kératolytique. Malheureusement, certains composés desquamants peuvent présenter, 10 lorsqu'ils sont utilisés à forte concentration, également des effets secondaires tels qu'un inconfort cutané. Il existe donc un besoin de trouver des solutions alternatives par exemple en trouvant des moyens d'employer lesdits agents desquamants à de plus faibles doses pour diminuer ces effets secondaires. 15 Les inventeurs ont découvert de façon surprenante que certains dérivés C-glycoside permettent de renforcer l'action desquamante des agents desquamants. Des dérivés C-glycoside sont notamment décrits dans le document WO 02/051828 pour leurs propriétés sur la synthèse des glycosaminoglycannes (GAGs) et en particulier pour améliorer l'hydratation et la souplesse de la peau. 20 Ainsi, selon un de ses aspects, l'invention concerne une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : de 0,001 à 95% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition d'au 25 moins un agent desquamant et, au moins un dérivé C-glycoside. Selon un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet l'utilisation cosmétique d'au moins un agent desquamant en association avec au moins un dérivé C-glycoside ou d'une composition selon l'invention pour favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou du 30 cuir chevelu et/ou stimuler le renouvellement épidermique, et notamment prévenir, atténuer et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, améliorer l'aspect et/ou la texture de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, et notamment améliorer l'éclat et l'homogénéité 2903009 4 du teint et/ou lisser la peau, diminuer les irrégularités de surface et le microrelief cutané, favoriser l'action de nettoyage et l'élimination de cellules mortes à la surface du corps, favoriser l'élimination des pellicules, lutter contre les imperfections des peaux grasses, améliorer la tenue du maquillage et/ou améliorer le résultat de traitement de la peau avec 5 des colorants du stratum corneum tel que la dihydroxyacétone (DHA). L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'au moins un agent desquamant en association avec au moins un dérivé C-glycoside ou d'une composition selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition destinée à traiter certaines pathologies de la peau liées à une desquamation anormale, telles que les xéroses, les ichtyoses, le 10 psoriasis, la dermatite atopique. L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique pour le soin non thérapeutique de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application de façon simultanée ou séquentielle sur la peau, via au moins une composition, d'au moins un dérivé C-glycoside et d'au moins un agent desquamant. 15 Le procédé de traitement cosmétique selon l'invention peut comprendre au moins une étape consistant à appliquer sur la peau et/ou le cuir chevelu une composition cosmétique selon la présente invention. Le procédé de traitement cosmétique pour le soin non thérapeutique de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu selon l'invention est plus particulièrement un procédé pour favoriser 20 la desquamation de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, et/ou stimuler le renouvellement épidermique, et notamment prévenir, atténuer et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, améliorer l'aspect et/ou la texture de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, et notamment améliorer l'éclat et l'homogénéité du teint et/ou lisser la peau, diminuer les irrégularités de surface et le microrelief cutané, favoriser l'action de nettoyage et 25 l'élimination de cellules mortes à la surface du corps, favoriser l'élimination des pellicules, améliorer la tenue du maquillage et/ou améliorer le résultat de traitement de la peau avec des colorants du stratum corneum tel que la dihydroxyacétone (DHA). Dans le procédé selon l'invention, le dérivé C-glycoside et l'agent desquamant peuvent être conditionnés dans deux compositions distinctes. 30 L'amélioration de la tenue du maquillage et/ou des traitements de coloration de la peau à la DHA résulte du fait que la peau et/ou le cuir chevelu peuvent être préparés 2903009 5 avant le maquillage et/ou la coloration précité(s) par l'application d'une composition selon l'invention, ce qui favorisera le résultat d'un traitement simultané ou ultérieur par un agent de maquillage ou un agent de coloration. Par "signe du vieillissement cutané", on entend toutes les modifications de 5 l'aspect extérieur de la peau et/ou sa texture dues à un vieillissement chronologique ou photo-induit comme par exemple les rides, les ridules, la peau flétrie, la peau molle, la peau amincie, le manque d'élasticité ou de tonus de la peau. L'activité pro-desquamante est effectivement recherchée principalement dans le domaine des compositions dites anti-âge, à savoir destinées à lutter contre les signes 10 cutanés dus au vieillissement et/ou au photovieillissement. Toutefois, l'association utilisée selon la présente invention peut également trouver des applications dans l'atténuation des irrégularités de surface de la peau et l'amélioration du microrelief cutané, en particulier l'atténuation des lentigo actiniques, des marques d'acné ou de varicelle, la désobstruction des pores de la peau ; le traitement de la peau sèche, et des peaux grasses et à tendance 15 acnéique. Pour ce qui est de la peau grasse, elle est souvent associée à un défaut de desquamation, et à un grain de peau épais. De plus, l'excès de sébum peut servir de support au développement anarchique de la flore bactérienne saprophyte (en particulier Propionibacterium acnes et Pityrosporum ovale), et causer des comédons et/ou des lésions 20 acnéiques. Ces lésions acnéiques constituent un autre signe cutané des peaux grasses contre lequel on peut avantageusement lutter en employant au moins une composition selon la présente invention. Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend que toutes les affections précitées sont couvertes sous le terme "améliorer l'aspect et/ou la texture de la peau et/ou 25 du cuir chevelu", ainsi que dans le terme plus particulier "améliorer l'éclat et l'homogénéité du teint et/ou améliorer le microrelief cutané". Pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé, l'association d'un agent desquamant et d'un dérivé C-glycoside ou la composition selon l'invention pourront être appliqués sur toute zone de la peau ou de ses annexes, notamment du visage, du décolleté, des mains, ou 30 sur les lèvres, afin d'atténuer les irrégularités visibles et/ou tactiles de la peau, par exemple pour atténuer les cicatrices, pour lisser la surface et/ou éliminer les peaux mortes notamment des lèvres. 2903009 6 Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le dérivé C-glycoside et l'agent desquamant objets de l'association selon l'invention peuvent être conditionnés dans deux compositions distinctes et appliquées simultanément ou de façon séquentielle. A titre d'exemple, on pourra appliquer la composition comprenant le C- 5 glycoside pour préparer la peau à l'application ultérieure de l'agent desquamant. En outre, de nombreuses pathologies cutanées se caractérisent par la production d'une couche cornée épaissie et par une desquamation anormale, c'est-à-dire par une hyperkératose. Celle-ci peut survenir sur tout territoire anatomique cutané et dans des contextes cliniques très variés. Son substratum physiopathologique et sa cause sont variés. 10 Avantageusement, l'association et les compositions conformes à l'invention permettent de favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou stimuler le renouvellement épidermique et donc plus particulièrement de traiter les pathologies cutanées et/ou du cuir chevelu qui se caractérisent par la production d'une couche cornée épaissie et/ou par une 15 desquamation anormale. Par conséquent, la présente invention se rapporte également selon un autre de ses aspects à l'utilisation de l'association ou d'une composition selon l'invention pour la préparation d'une composition destinée à traiter les pathologies cutanées et/ou du cuir chevelu qui se caractérisent par la production d'une couche cornée épaissie et/ou par une 20 desquamation anormale. A titre illustratif et non limitatif de ces désordres cutanés et/ou du cuir chevelu liés à une dérégulation de la desquamation, on peut citer, dans le cadre de la présente invention : les xéroses - l'acné les hyperkératoses, le psoriasis, l'atopie et les ichtyoses. L'association d'au moins un agent desquamant et d'au moins un dérivé C-glycoside ou d'une composition selon l'invention permet de favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu et/ou stimuler le renouvellement épidermique et peut donc 25 30 2903009 7 être utilisée pour la préparation d'une composition dermatologique destinée à traiter les pathologies cutanées précitées qui se caractérisent par la production d'une couche cornée épaissie et/ou par une desquamation anormale. Enfin, la composition selon la présente invention trouve une autre application 5 dans le domaine des peelings chimiques. L'association selon l'invention est donc avantageuse dans des compositions de peeling. Les peelings sont un moyen bien connu pour améliorer l'aspect et/ou la texture de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, notamment améliorer l'éclat et l'homogénéité du teint et/ou diminuer les irrégularités visibles et/ou tactiles de la peau, et en particulier pour 10 améliorer l'aspect de surface de la peau, pour atténuer les lentigo actiniques, les marques d'acné ou de varicelle, ainsi que pour prévenir, atténuer ou lutter contres les signes du vieillissement cutané, et notamment pour lisser les irrégularités de la texture de la peau, telles les rides et les ridules. Ils ont pour effet d'enlever une partie superficielle de la peau à traiter 15 (épiderme et éventuellement couche superficielle du derme), par des méthodes chimiques. L'invention a donc pour objet un procédé de traitement cosmétique des irrégularités visibles et/ou tactiles de la peau humaine, comprenant les étapes consistant à : a) appliquer topiquement sur la peau une composition selon la présente invention, 20 b) laisser la composition au contact de la peau pendant une durée comprise entre 5 mn et 6 heures, de préférence entre 5 mn et 30 mn, et c) éliminer la composition par rinçage. Selon un mode alternatif de réalisation, l'invention concerne un procédé cosmétique en vue de favoriser la desquamation de la peau et/ou des muqueuses, 25 comprenant au moins une étape (i) de préparation de la peau au peeling consistant à appliquer sur les zones à traiter au moins un dérivé de C-glycoside tel que défini dans ce qui suit, à au moins une concentration inférieure à celle entraînant la desquamation, et (ii) une étape ultérieure comprenant l'application d'au moins un agent desquamant à une concentration adaptée pour provoquer la desquamation. Une étape d'élimination du ou des 30 agents desquamants par rinçage sera ensuite effectuée. Avantageusement, l'étape (i) pourra être répétée avec des concentrations croissantes de dérivé C-glycoside. Ces concentrations seront adaptées par l'homme du 2903009 8 métier en fonction de l'effet recherché et du nombre d'applications envisagées, mais seront généralement inférieures à 10 %. On pourra par exemple utiliser une première concentration d'environ 2%, puis une ou plusieurs applications successives avec une concentration d'environ 4%, puis 6 ou 8% en poids. 5 Ce procédé est plus particulièrement destiné à prévenir, atténuer, et/ou lutter contre les signes du vieillissement cutané, et notamment atténuer les rides et les ridules, et à améliorer l'aspect et/ou la texture de la peau, en particulier à améliorer l'homogénéité du teint et/ou lisser la peau, et notamment atténuer des lentigo actiniques, ou des marques d'acné ou de varicelle, et/ou désobstruer les pores de la peau. 10 AGENT DESQUAMANT Par "agent desquamant", on entend tout composé capable d'agir : - soit directement sur la desquamation en favorisant l'exfoliation, tels que : 15 les acides monocarboxyliques saturés et insaturés, les acides dicarboxyliques saturés et insaturés, les acides tricarboxyliques saturés et insaturés ; les alpha hydroxyacides et beta hydroxyacides des acides monocarboxyliques ; les alpha hydroxyacides et beta hydroxyacides des acides dicarboxyliques ; des alpha hydroxyacides et beta hydroxyacides des acides tricarboxiliques ; des kétoacides, des alpha kétoacides, des beta ketoacides 20 d'acides polycarboxyliques, d'acides polyhydroxy monocarboxyliques, d'acides polyhydroxy bicarboxyliques, d'acides polyhydroxy tricarboxyliques ; et l'acide (3 -hydroxy-2pentylcyclopentyl)acétique. Comme a-hydroxyacides préférés, on peut citer : l'acide glycolique, l'acide citrique, l'acide lactique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide malique ou l'acide mandélique. 25 Les 13-hydroxyacides préférés sont choisis parmi : l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés, en particulier l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique. Comme autres agents exfoliants, on peut citer : les acides pyruvique, gluconique, glucuronique, oxalique, malonique, succinique, acétique, gentisique, 30 cinnamique, azélaique ; le phénol, la résorcine ; l'urée et ses dérivés ; les oligofucoses comme dans le brevet EP 0 218 200 ; l'acide jasmonique et ses dérivés comme dans les demandes de brevet EP 1 333 022 et EP 1 333 021 ; l'acide trichloracétique ; les rétinoides 2903009 9 tels que le rétinol, l'acide rétinoique ; l'adapalène ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le resvératrol ; ainsi que leurs sels et dérivés, tels que les formes cis ou trans, les mélanges racémiques, les formes dextrogyres ou levogyres des agents pré-cités. 5 - soit sur les enzymes impliquées dans la desquamation ou la dégradation des cornéodesmosomes, telles que les glycosidases, la stratum corneum chymotryptic enzym (SCCE) voire d'autres protéases (trypsine, chymotrypsine-like). On peut citer notamment les agents chélatants des sels minéraux tels l'EDTA ; l'acide N-acyl-N,N',N'éthylène diaminetriacétique ; les composés aminosulfoniques et en particulier l'acide (N-2 10 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) ; les dérivés d'acides alpha aminés de type glycine (tels que décrits dans EP 0 852 949, ainsi que le méthyl glycine diacétate de sodium commercialisé par BASF sous la dénomination commerciale TRILON M ) ; le miel ; les dérivés de sucre tels que l'O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, le O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose et 15 la N-acétyl glucosamine. Comme autres agents desquamants utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer, les extraits de laminaire tels que le laminaria saccharina et le laminaria ochrolenca, le trilactate de glycérol, les dérivés siliciés de salicylate comme dans 20 le brevet EP 0 796 861, les sels d'acide 5-acyl salicylique, des actifs ayant des effets sur la transglutaminase comme dans le brevet EP 0 899 330, et un extrait de fleur de ficus opuntia indica comme Exfolactivé de Silab. Comme agents desquamants préférés, on pourra citer les beta-hydroxyacides, tel que l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique ; l'urée et ses dérivés ; les acides glycolique, 25 citrique, lactique, tartrique, malique ou mandélique ; l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le miel ; le N-acétyl glucosamine ; les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) et leurs mélanges. 30 Encore plus préférentiellement on utilisera dans la composition de l'invention un agent desquamant choisi parmi l'acide glycolique, l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique, 2903009 10 l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES), les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine) et leurs mélanges. L'homme du métier saura définir la quantité nécessaire d'agent desquamant présent dans l'association selon l'invention pour obtenir l'effet recherché sur la peau. 5 A titre d'exemple, l'agent desquamant pourra être en une teneur allant de 0,001 à 95% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier de 0, 01 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, préférentiellement de 0,01 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 10 Lorsque la composition a une application en peeling, elle peut notamment de 0,01 à 90% en poids d'agent(s) desquamant(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 à 70% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. De préférence, on utilisera dans les compositions de peeling au moins 10% en poids et en particulier plus de 20% en poids, notamment de 21 à 50% et de préférence de 15 21 à 30% d'agent desquamant en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. DERIVES C-GLYCOSIDE Un dérivé C-glycoside convenant à l'invention peut être un composé de formule générale (I) suivante : XùR Sù/ (I) dans laquelle : R représente : un radical alkyle linéaire, saturé en C1 à C20, en particulier en C1 à C10, ou insaturé en C2 à C20, en particulier en C2 à C1o, ou un radical alkyle ramifié ou cyclique, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C20, en particulier en C3 à C1o: un radical hydrofluoro- ou perfluoro-alkyle, linéaire saturé en C1 à C20, en particulier en Cl à C10 , ou insaturé en C2 à C20, en particulier en C2 à C10, ou ramifié ou cyclique, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C20 , en particulier en C3 à C10 ; 20 25 30 2903009 11 la chaîne hydrocarbonée constituant lesdits radicaux pouvant, le cas échéant, être interrompue par 1 2, 3 ou plus d'hétéroatomes choisis parmi : un oxygène, un soufre, un azote, et - un silicium, et pouvant être éventuellement substituée par au moins un radical choisi parmi : - -OR4, - -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, - -CONHR4, -CN, un atome d'halogène, un radical hydrofluoro- ou perfluoro-alkyle, en C1 à C6, et/ou un radical cycloalkyle en C3 à C8, avec R4 et R5 pouvant représenter, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un atome d'hydrogène, ou un radical alkyle, perfluoroalkyle ou hydrofluoroalkyle linéaire, saturé en C1 à Cao, notamment en C1 à C12, ou insaturé en C2 à C30, notamment en C2 à C12, ou ramifié ou 20 cyclique, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C30, notamment en C3 à C12 ; ou un radical aryle en C6 à Clo, X représente un radical choisi parmi les groupements : 5 10 15 2903009 12 H ùCù I N Rz ~R avec R1, R2 et R3 représentant, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, un atome d'hydrogène, ou un radical R, avec R tel que défini précédemment, et R' l représente un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe ûOH ou un radical R tel que défini précédemment, RI pouvant désigner 5 également un radical aryle en C6 à C10 ; - S représente un monosaccharide ou un polysaccharide comportant jusqu'à 20 unités sucre, en particulier jusqu'à 6 unités sucre, sous forme pyranose et/ou furanose et de série L et/ou D, ledit mono- ou poly-saccharide pouvant être substitué par un groupement hydroxyle obligatoirement libre, et éventuellement une ou plusieurs fonction(s) 10 amine(s) éventuellement protégée(s), et - la liaison S-CH2-X représente une liaison de nature C-anomérique, qui peut être a ou 0, ainsi que leurs sels cosmétiquement acceptables, leurs solvates tels que les hydrates et leurs isomères. 15 Dans le cadre de la présente invention, par halogène , on entend le chlore, le fluor, le brome ou l'iode. Le terme aryle désigne un cycle aromatique tel que phényle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux alkyles en CI-C4. Le terme cycloalkyle en C3 à Cg désigne un cycle aliphatique ayant de 3 à 8 20 atomes de carbone, incluant par exemple le cyclopropyle, le cyclopentyle et le cyclohéxyle. 2903009 13 Parmi les groupes alkyle convenant à la mise en oeuvre de l'invention, on peut notamment citer les groupes méthyle, éthyle, isopropyle, n-propyle, n-butyle, t-butyle, isobutyle, sec-butyle, pentyle, n-hexyle, cyclopropyle, cyclopentyle, cyclohexyle, et allyle. 5 Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, on peut utiliser un dérivé C-glycoside répondant à la formule (I) pour lequel S peut représenter un monosaccharide ou un polysaccharide contenant jusqu'à 6 unités sucre, sous forme pyranose et/ou furanose et de série L et/ou D, ledit mono- ou polysaccharide présentant au moins une fonction hydroxyle obligatoirement libre et/ou éventuellement une ou plusieurs fonctions amine 10 obligatoirement protégée, X et R conservant par ailleurs l'ensemble des définitions précédemment données. Avantageusement, un monosaccharide de l'invention peut être choisi parmi le D-glucose, le D-galactose, le D-mannose, le D-xylose, le D-lyxose, le L-fucose, le L-arabinose, le L-rhamnose, l'acide D-glucuronique, l'acide D-galacturonique, l'acide D15 iduronique, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine, la N-acétyl-D-galactosamine et désigne avantageusement le D-glucose, le D-xylose, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine ou le L-fucose, et en particulier le D-xylose. Plus particulièrement, un polysaccharide de l'invention contenant jusqu'à 6 unités sucre peut être choisi parmi le D-maltose, le D-lactose, le D-cellobiose, le D- 20 maltotriose, un disaccharide associant un acide uronique choisi parmi l'acide D-iduronique ou l'acide D-glucuronique avec une hexosamine choisie parmi la D-galactosamine, la D-glucosamine, la N-acétyl-D-galactosamine, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine, un oligosaccharide contenant au moins un xylose qui peut être avantageusement choisi parmi le xylobiose, le méthyl-P-xylobioside, le xylotriose, le xylotétraose, le xylopentaose et le xylohexaose et 25 notamment le xylobiose qui est composé de deux molécules de xylose liées par une liaison 1-4. Plus particulièrement, S peut représenter un monosaccharide choisi parmi le D-glucose, le D-xylose, le L-fucose, le D-galactose, le D-maltose et notamment le D-xylose. 30 Selon un autre mode de réalisation de l'invention, on peut utiliser des dérivés C-glycoside répondant à la formule (I) pour lesquels X représente un groupement choisi parmi -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NR1R2)-, -CH(R)-, en particulier ûCO-, -CH(OH)-, 2903009 14 -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)-, -CH(CH3)-, et plus particulièrement un groupement ùCO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, et préférentiellement un groupement ù CH(OH)-, S et R conservant par ailleurs l'ensemble des définitions précédemment données. 5 Selon un autre mode deréalisation de l'invention, on peut utiliser un dérivé C-glycoside répondant à la formule (I) pour lesquels R représente un radical alkyle en linéaire, saturé en C1 à C20, en particulier en C1 à C10, ou insaturé en C2 à C20, en particulier en C2 à C10, ou un radical alkyle ramifié ou cyclique, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C20 ; en particulier en C3 à C10 , et éventuellement substitué comme décrit précédemment, S et R 10 conservant par ailleurs l'ensemble des définitions précédemment données. De préférence, R désigne un radical linéaire en C1-C4, notamment C1-C3, éventuellement substitué par ù OH, -COOH ou ùCOOR"2, R"2 étant un radical alkyle saturé en C1-C4, notamment éthyle. Préférentiellement R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire non substitué en C1-C4, notamment C1-C2, en particulier éthyle. 15 Parmi les dérivés C-glycoside de formule (I), on utilise de préférence ceux pour lesquels : - R représente un radical alkyle en linéaire, saturé en C1 à C20, en particulier en C1 à C10, ou insaturé en C2 à C20, en particulier en C2 à C10, ou un radical alkyle ramifié 20 ou cyclique, saturé ou insaturé, en C3 à C20 ; en particulier en C3 à C10, et éventuellement substitué comme décrit précédemment ; S représente un monosaccharide comme décrit précédemment ; X représente -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NR1R2)-, -CH(R)- comme décrit précédemment. 25 De préférence, on utilise un dérivé C-glycoside de formule (I) pour lesquels : - R désigne un radical linéaire en C1-C4, notamment C1-C3, éventuellement subsitué par ùOH, -COOH ou ùCOOR"2, R"2 étant un radical alkyle saturé en C1-C4, notamment éthyle ; 30 - S représente un monosaccharide comme décrit précédemment ; 2903009 15 - X représente un groupement choisi parmi ûCO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)-, -CH(CH3)-, et plus particulièrement un groupement ûCO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-,et préférentiellement un groupement ûCH(OH)-. 5 Préférentiellement, on utilise un dérivé C-glycoside de formule (I) pour lesquels : - R désigne un radical alkyle linéaire non substitué en C1-C4, notamment C1-C2, en particulier éthyle ; - S représente un monosaccharide comme décrit précédemment ; notamment 10 le D-glucose, le D-xylose, la N-acétyl-D-glucosamine ou le L-fucose, et en particulier le D-xylose ; X représente un groupement choisi parmi ûCO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, et préférentiellement un groupement ûCH(OH)- . 15 Les sels acceptables pour l'usage non thérapeutique des composés décrits dans la présente invention comprennent des sels non toxiques conventionnels desdits composés tels que ceux formés à partir d'acides organiques ou inorganiques. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les sels d'acides minéraux, tels que l'acide sulfurique, l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide bromhydrique, l'acide iodhydrique, l'acide phosphorique, l'acide borique. On peut 20 également citer les sels d'acides organiques, qui peuvent comporter un ou plusieurs groupes acide carboxylique, sulfonique, ou phosphonique. Il peut s'agir d'acides aliphatiques linéaires, ramifiés ou cycliques ou encore d'acides aromatiques. Ces acides peuvent comporter, en outre, un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi O et N, par exemple sous la forme de groupes hydroxyle. On peut notamment citer l'acide propionique, 25 l'acide acétique, l'acide téréphtalique, l'acide citrique et l'acide tartrique. Lorsque le composé de formule (I) comporte un groupe acide, la neutralisation du ou des groupes acides peut être effectuée par une base minérale, telle que LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 ou Zn(OH)2; ou par une base organique telle qu'une alkylamine primaire, secondaire ou tertiaire, par exemple la triéthylamine ou la 30 butylarnine. Cette alkylamine primaire, secondaire ou tertiaire peut comporter un ou plusieurs atomes d'azote et/ou d'oxygène et peut donc comporter par exemple une ou plusieurs fonctions alcool; on peut notamment citer l'amino-2-méthyl-2-propanol, la 2903009 16 triéthanolamine, la diméthylamino-2-propanol, le 2-amino-2-(hydroxyméthyl)-1,3-propanediol. On peut encore citer la lysine ou la 3-(diméthylamino)propylamine. Les solvates acceptables pour les composés décrits dans la présente invention comprennent des solvates conventionnels tels que ceux formés lors de la dernière étape de 5 préparation desdits composés du fait de la présence de solvants. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les solvates dus à la présence d'eau ou d'alcools linéaires ou ramifiés comme l'éthanol ou l'isopropanol. Parmi les dérivés C-glycoside de formule (I), utilisés selon l'invention, on considère tout particulièrement : 10 1. C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one ; 2. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one ; 3. 1-[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]- C- (3 -D-xylopyranose ; 4. 1-[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]-C-a-D-xylopyranose ; 5. C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ; 15 6. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ; 7. C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane ; 8. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane ; 9. C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-phénylamino-propane ; 10. C-a-D-xylopyrano side-2-phényl amino-propane ; 20 11. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-butyrique ; 12. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-butyrique ; 13. acide 6-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 14. acide 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 15. acide 6-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 25 16. acide 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 17. acide 6-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 18. acide 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 19. acide 6-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 20. acide 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 30 21. 1-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 22. 1-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 2903009 17 23. acide 5-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 24. acide 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 25. acide 5-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside )-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 26. acide 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside )-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 5 27. acide 5-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique ; 28. acide 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique ; 29. acide 5-(C-(3-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 30. acide 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 31. 1-(C-13-D-xylopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 10 32. 1-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 33. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one ; 34. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one ; 35. 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one ; 36. 1 -(C-a-L- fucopyrano si de)-prop ane-2-one ; 15 37. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 38. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 39. 1-(C--L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 40. 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 41. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane ; 20 42. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane ; 43. 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane ; 44. 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane ; 45. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 46. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 25 47. 1-(C-13-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 48. 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 49. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-P-D-fucopyranoside)-butyrique ; 50. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-butyrique ; 51. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-butyrique ; 30 52. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-butyrique ; 2903009 18 53. acide 6-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 54. acide 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 55. acide 6-(C-13-L-fucopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 56. acide 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 5 57. acide 6-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside )-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 58. acide 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside )-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 59. acide 6-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 60. acide 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 61. acide 6-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 10 62. acide 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 63. acide 6-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 64. acide 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 65. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 66. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 15 67. 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 68. 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 69. acide 5-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 70. acide 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 71. acide 5-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 20 72. acide 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-céto-pentanoique ; 73. acide 5-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 74. acide 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 75. acide 5-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 76. acide 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 25 77. acide 5-(C-P-D-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique ; 78. acide 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique 79. acide 5-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique ; 80. acide 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoique ; 81. 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 30 82. 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 2903009 19 83. 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 84. 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 85. 1-(C--D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 86. 1-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 5 87. 1-(C--D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ; 88. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyrano syl)-2-amino-propane ; 89. 1-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phénylaminopropane ; 90. 1-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 91. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrique ; 10 92. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrique ; 93. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 94. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 95. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 96. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 15 97. acide 6-(C-3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 98. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 99. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 100. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 101. 1-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 20 102. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 103. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 104. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 105. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 106. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 25 107. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoique ; 108. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 109. acide 6-(C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 110. acide 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 111. 1-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 30 112. 1-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 2903009 20 113. 1-(C-13-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 114. 1-(C-aùD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane ; 115. 1-(C--D-galactopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ; 116. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ; 5 117. 1-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 118. 1 -(Ca-D-galactopyrano syl)-2 -phénylamino-propane ; 119. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-((3-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyrique ; 120. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(a-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyrique ; 121. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 10 122. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 123. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 124. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 125. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 126. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 15 127. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 128. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 129. 1-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 130. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 131. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 20 132. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 133. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 134. acide Dermatological useful in particular for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp and / or stimulating epidermal renewal, comprising the combination of at least one desquamating agent in a content ranging from 0.001 to 95% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition and at least one C-glycoside derivative. It may especially be a care composition and / or make-up of the materials and / or keratin fibers. Within the meaning of the invention, the term "keratin materials and / or fibers" is intended to denote, for example, the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. By skin, we mean in the broad sense the skin and semi-mucous membranes (lips). Flaking is a natural phenomenon due to the fact that the epidermis, which constitutes the upper layer of the skin and the scalp, is in constant regeneration. The epidermis consists of several layers of cells, the deepest of which is the basal layer of undifferentiated cells. Over time, these cells will differentiate and migrate to the surface of the epidermis by constituting the different bases of it, to form on the surface of the epidermis corneocytes which are dead cells that eliminate by desquamation. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. It is the perpetual renewal of the skin. Forced removal of the stratum corneum accelerates the renewal and helps to fight against aging. At the same time these cells continue their differentiation whose last stage is the corneocyte. It is in fact dead cells which constitute the last layer of the epidermis, ie the outermost layer, also called stratum, slowing epidermal renewal and consequently an aging of the skin, and / or thickening of the stratum corneum (ex: formation of callosities), and / or desquamative disorders of aesthetic type (eg dandruff, dander. . . ) or pathological (eg xerosis, ichthyosis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis). corneum. It is known that the desquamation process can be altered by exogenous factors (eg UV radiation, pollution, allergenic agents, pathogens), and / or endogenous (ex: hormonal changes, age. . . ) In particular with regard to cutaneous aging, resulting from intrinsic or extrinsic factors, it generally results in the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, by the yellowing of the skin which develops a parchment-like appearance accompanied by the appearance of pigment spots, by the disorganization of the elastin and collagen fibers resulting in a loss of elasticity, flexibility and firmness or by the appearance of telangiectasia. Some of these signs of aging are more particularly related to intrinsic or physiological aging, that is to say age-related "normal" or chronobiological aging, while others are more specific to extrinsic aging. that is to say aging generally caused by the environment; this is particularly photoaging due to exposure to the sun, light or other radiation. Skin changes due to intrinsic aging are the result of genetically programmed senescence involving endogenous factors. This intrinsic aging notably causes a slowing down of the renewal of the cells of the skin, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of the subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of the elastic fibers, a loss of vertical fibers of the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue. In contrast, extrinsic aging results in clinical alterations such as thick wrinkles and soft, tanned skin formation, and histopathological changes such as excessive build-up of elastic material in the upper dermis and degeneration of the skin fibers. collagen. The invention is particularly interested in intrinsic or physiological aging as well as extrinsic aging. Various agents are known in the prior art for combating skin aging, among which are antioxidants, agents promoting the proliferation and / or differentiation of dermal and / or epidermal cells, agents stimulating the expression of macromolecules. dermal or epidermal, as many 2903009 3 agents as cellular or molecular targets in the skin to prevent and / or reduce the multiple effects of skin aging. Thus, US Pat. No. 4,603,146 describes the use of retinoic acid and its derivatives in cosmetic compositions, with a view to combating skin aging. . In addition to these agents intended to combat skin aging, desquamating agents are also added. In general, desquamating agents act by facilitating the removal of dead cells located on the surface of the stratum corneum of the epidermis. This "desquamating" property is also called, often erroneously, keratolytic property. Unfortunately, certain desquamating compounds may, when used in high concentrations, also have side effects such as cutaneous discomfort. There is therefore a need to find alternative solutions for example by finding ways to use said desquamating agents at lower doses to reduce these side effects. The inventors have surprisingly discovered that certain C-glycoside derivatives make it possible to enhance the desquamating action of desquamating agents. C-glycoside derivatives are described in particular in WO 02/051828 for their properties on the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and in particular for improving the hydration and the suppleness of the skin. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: from 0.001 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one desquamating agent and, at least one C-glycoside derivative. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of at least one desquamating agent in combination with at least one C-glycoside derivative or a composition according to the invention for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or the scalp and / or stimulate epidermal renewal, and in particular to prevent, attenuate and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, improve the appearance and / or the texture of the skin and / or the scalp, and in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to smooth the skin, to reduce the surface irregularities and the cutaneous microrelief, to promote the cleaning action and the elimination of dead cells on the surface of the body, to promote the elimination of dandruff, to fight against the imperfections of oily skin, to improve the hold of makeup and / or to improve the treatment result of the skin with stratum corneum dyes such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The invention also relates to the use of at least one desquamating agent in combination with at least one C-glycoside derivative or a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a composition intended to treat certain skin-related pathologies. abnormal desquamation, such as xerosis, ichthyosis, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment method for the non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or the scalp, characterized in that it comprises applying simultaneously or sequentially to the skin, via at least one composition, at least one C-glycoside derivative and at least one desquamating agent. The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may comprise at least one step of applying to the skin and / or the scalp a cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The cosmetic treatment method for the non-therapeutic care of the skin and / or the scalp according to the invention is more particularly a method for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or scalp, and / or stimulating epidermal renewal. , and in particular to prevent, attenuate and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or the scalp, and in particular improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or smooth the skin, reduce surface irregularities and cutaneous microrelief, promote the cleaning action and the removal of dead cells on the surface of the body, promote the elimination of dandruff, improve the makeup hold and / or improve the skin treatment result with stratum corneum dyes such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA). In the process according to the invention, the C-glycoside derivative and the desquamating agent may be packaged in two separate compositions. The improvement in the hold of makeup and / or skin coloring treatments with DHA results from the fact that the skin and / or the scalp can be prepared before the makeup and / or the aforementioned coloration (s). ) by the application of a composition according to the invention, which will promote the result of a simultaneous or subsequent treatment with a makeup agent or a coloring agent. By "sign of skin aging" is meant all changes in the external appearance of the skin and / or its texture due to chronological or photoinduced aging such as, for example, wrinkles, fine lines, wilted skin, soft skin, thinned skin, lack of elasticity or tone of the skin. The pro-desquamating activity is actually sought mainly in the field of so-called anti-aging compositions, namely intended to fight against cutaneous signs due to aging and / or photoaging. However, the combination used according to the present invention may also find applications in the attenuation of surface irregularities of the skin and the improvement of the cutaneous microrelief, in particular the attenuation of actinic lentigo, acne marks or chicken pox, unclogging the pores of the skin; the treatment of dry skin, and oily and acne-prone skin. For oily skin, it is often associated with a lack of desquamation, and a thick skin texture. In addition, the excess of sebum can serve as a support for the anarchic development of the saprophytic bacterial flora (in particular Propionibacterium acnes and Pityrosporum ovale), and to cause comedones and / or acne lesions. These acne lesions constitute another cutaneous sign of oily skin which can advantageously be combatted by employing at least one composition according to the present invention. In the context of the present invention, it is meant that all the aforementioned conditions are covered under the term "improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp", as well as in the more particular term " to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to improve the cutaneous microrelief ". For the implementation of this method, the combination of a desquamating agent and a C-glycoside derivative or the composition according to the invention may be applied to any area of the skin or its appendages, in particular the face, décolleté, hands, or on the lips, to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, for example to reduce scarring, to smooth the surface and / or eliminate dead skin including lips. According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative and the desquamating agent which are the objects of the combination according to the invention may be packaged in two separate compositions and applied simultaneously or sequentially. By way of example, the composition comprising C-glycoside can be applied to prepare the skin for subsequent application of the desquamating agent. In addition, many cutaneous pathologies are characterized by the production of a thickened horny layer and by abnormal desquamation, that is to say by hyperkeratosis. This can occur on any anatomical skin and in a wide variety of clinical contexts. Its pathophysiological substratum and its cause are varied. Advantageously, the combination and the compositions in accordance with the invention make it possible to promote desquamation of the skin and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal and therefore more particularly to treat the cutaneous and / or scalp pathologies which are characterized by the production thickened horny layer and / or abnormal desquamation. Consequently, the present invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of the combination or a composition according to the invention for the preparation of a composition intended to treat cutaneous pathologies and / or leather which are characterized by the production of a thickened horny layer and / or abnormal desquamation. By way of nonlimiting illustration of these cutaneous and / or scalp disorders related to a dysregulation of desquamation, mention may be made in the context of the present invention: xeroses - acne, hyperkeratosis, psoriasis, atopy and ichthyosis. The combination of at least one desquamating agent and at least one C-glycoside derivative or a composition according to the invention makes it possible to promote the desquamation of the skin and / or the scalp and / or to stimulate epidermal renewal. and may therefore be used for the preparation of a dermatological composition for treating the aforementioned skin conditions which are characterized by the production of a thickened horny layer and / or abnormal desquamation. Finally, the composition according to the present invention finds another application in the field of chemical peels. The combination according to the invention is therefore advantageous in peeling compositions. Peels are a well-known way to improve the appearance and / or texture of the skin and / or scalp, in particular to improve the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion and / or to reduce the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin and / or scalp. the skin, and in particular to improve the surface appearance of the skin, to reduce actinic lentigo, marks of acne or chickenpox, as well as to prevent, attenuate or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to smooth out irregularities in the texture of the skin, such as wrinkles and fine lines. They have the effect of removing a superficial part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly superficial layer of the dermis) by chemical methods. The subject of the invention is therefore a process for the cosmetic treatment of visible and / or tactile irregularities of human skin, comprising the steps of: a) applying a composition according to the present invention topically to the skin, b) leaving the composition in contact with the skin for a period of between 5 minutes and 6 hours, preferably between 5 minutes and 30 minutes, and c) remove the composition by rinsing. According to an alternative embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for promoting desquamation of the skin and / or mucous membranes, comprising at least one step (i) of preparing the skin for peeling consisting of applying to areas to be treated at least one C-glycoside derivative as defined below, at least at a concentration below that leading to desquamation, and (ii) a subsequent step comprising applying at least one desquamating agent to a concentration adapted to cause desquamation. A step of removing the desquamating agent (s) by rinsing will then be performed. Advantageously, step (i) may be repeated with increasing concentrations of C-glycoside derivative. These concentrations will be adapted by the skilled person according to the desired effect and the number of applications envisaged, but will generally be less than 10%. For example, it is possible to use a first concentration of about 2%, then one or more successive applications with a concentration of about 4%, and then 6 or 8% by weight. This method is more particularly intended to prevent, attenuate, and / or fight against the signs of skin aging, and in particular to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, and to improve the appearance and / or the texture of the skin, in particular to improve the homogeneity of the complexion and / or smooth the skin, and in particular attenuate actinic lentigo, or acne or chickenpox marks, and / or unclog the pores of the skin. DEQUAMANT AGENT The term "desquamating agent" means any compound capable of acting: either directly on desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as: saturated and unsaturated monocarboxylic acids, saturated and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids, acids saturated and unsaturated tricarboxylic; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of monocarboxylic acids; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of dicarboxylic acids; alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids of tricarboxylic acids; ketoacids, alpha ketoacids, beta ketoacids of polycarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy monocarboxylic acids, polyhydroxybicarboxylic acids, polyhydroxy tricarboxylic acids; and (3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid. Preferred α-hydroxy acids include: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid. The preferred 13-hydroxy acids are selected from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. Other exfoliation agents that may be mentioned include: pyruvic acid, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, gentisic acid, cinnamic acid, azelaic acid; phenol, resorcinol; urea and its derivatives; oligofucoses as in patent EP 0 218 200; jasmonic acid and its derivatives as in patent applications EP 1 333 022 and EP 1 333 021; trichloroacetic acid; retinoids such as retinol, retinoic acid; adapalene; Saphora japonica extract; resveratrol; as well as their salts and derivatives, such as cis or trans forms, racemic mixtures, dextrorotatory or levogyrous forms of the aforementioned agents. Or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or the degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may in particular be made of chelating agents for mineral salts such as EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ', N'-ethylene diaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2 hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (as described in EP 0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, O-linoleyl-6-D-glucose and N-acetyl glucosamine. Other desquamating agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention include laminar extracts such as laminaria saccharina and laminaria ochrolenca, glycerol trilactate, and silicon salicylate derivatives, as in patent EP 0 796 861. 5-acyl salicylic acid salts, active agents having effects on transglutaminase as in EP 0 899 330, and a ficus opuntia indica flower extract as Exfolactivé de Silab. Preferred desquamating agents include beta-hydroxy acids such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; urea and its derivatives; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine; derivatives of 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine) and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, in the composition of the invention, a desquamating agent chosen from glycolic acid, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid and (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) acid will be used. sulfonic acid (HEPES), 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine) and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will be able to define the necessary amount of desquamating agent present in the combination according to the invention to obtain the desired effect on the skin. By way of example, the desquamating agent may be in a content ranging from 0.001 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition has a peeling application, it may especially comprise from 0.01 to 90% by weight of desquamating agent (s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 70% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, in the peeling compositions at least 10% by weight and in particular more than 20% by weight, in particular from 21% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 21% to 30% by weight of desquamating agent relative to total weight of the composition. C-GLYCOSIDE DERIVATIVES A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may be a compound of the following general formula (I): embedded image wherein: R represents a linear C 1 to C 20 saturated alkyl radical; in particular C 1 to C 10, or unsaturated C 2 to C 20, in particular C 2 to C 10, or a branched or cyclic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 20, in particular C 3 to C 10: a hydrofluoro- or perfluoro radical; -alkyl, linear saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C2 to C20, in particular C2 to C10, or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C20, in particular C3 to C20, C10; The hydrocarbon-based chain constituting said radicals can, if appropriate, be interrupted by 1 2, 3 or more heteroatoms chosen from: oxygen, a sulfur, a nitrogen, and a silicon, and which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from: -OR4, -SR4, -NR4R5, -COOR4, -CONHR4, -CN, a halogen atom, a C1-C6 hydrofluoro- or perfluoroalkyl radical, and / or a C3-C8 cycloalkyl radical, with R4 and R5 being able to represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or linear hydrofluoroalkyl radical, saturated with C1 to C8, in particular C1 to C12, or unsaturated C2 to C30, especially C2 to C12, or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C30, especially C3 to C12; or a C6 to C10 aryl radical, X represents a radical chosen from the groups: ## STR2 ## with R1, R2 and R3 representing, independently of one another, an atom of hydrogen, or a radical R, with R as defined above, and R '1 represents a hydrogen atom, a group OH or a radical R as defined above, RI may also denote a C6 to C10 aryl radical; S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form, and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide possibly being substituted by a necessarily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function (s), and the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be a or 0, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their isomers. In the context of the present invention, halogen means chlorine, fluorine, bromine or iodine. The term aryl designates an aromatic ring such as phenyl, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals. The term C3-C8 cycloalkyl refers to an aliphatic ring having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including, for example, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl. Among the alkyl groups which are suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned in particular the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl and pentyl groups. hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and allyl. According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose and L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function necessarily free and / or optionally one or more functions amine 10 necessarily protected, X and R otherwise retaining all the definitions previously given. Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L- rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D15 iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D- xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose. More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least a xylose which can be advantageously selected from among xylobiose, methyl-P-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and especially D-xylose. According to another embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use C-glycoside derivatives corresponding to formula (I) for which X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NR1R2 ) -, -CH (R) -, in particular -CO-, -CH (OH) -, 2903009 14 -CH (NH2) -, -CH (NHCH2CH2CH2OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -, -CH (CH3) and, more particularly, a group -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a group -CH (OH) -, S and R otherwise preserving all the definitions previously given. According to another embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (I) for which R represents an alkyl radical in linear, saturated C1 to C20, in particular C1 to C10, or unsaturated C 2 to C 20, especially C 2 to C 10, or a branched or cyclic C 3 to C 20 saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical; in particular at C3 to C10, and optionally substituted as described above, S and R 10 furthermore preserving all the definitions previously given. Preferably, R denotes a linear radical C1-C4, especially C1-C3, optionally substituted with OH, -COOH or COOR "2, R" 2 being a saturated alkyl radical C1-C4, especially ethyl. Preferentially, R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, especially C1-C2, alkyl radical, in particular ethyl. Among the C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I), use is preferably made of those for which: R represents a linear, saturated C 1 to C 20, in particular C 1 to C 10, or unsaturated C 2 to C 20 alkyl radical, in particular C 2 to C 10, or a branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 3 to C 20 alkyl radical; in particular C3 to C10, and optionally substituted as described above; S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; X represents -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NR1R2) -, -CH (R) - as previously described. Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative of formula (I) is used, for which: R denotes a linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C3, radical optionally substituted by OH, -COOH or -COOR "2, R" 2; being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, especially ethyl; S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, -CH (NHCH2CH2CH2OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -, -CH (CH3) -, and more particularly a group -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, and preferably a group -CH (OH) -. Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative of formula (I) is used for which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, in particular ethyl; S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; especially D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and especially D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a group -CH (OH) -. Salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. There may also be mentioned organic acid salts, which may include one or more carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. When the compound of formula (I) has an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; there may be mentioned amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triamine triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed in the last step of preparing said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. Among the C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I), used according to the invention, the following are particularly considered: C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; 2. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; 3. 1- [2- (3-Hydroxypropylamino) propyl] -C- (3-D-xylopyranose); 1- [2- (3-hydroxypropylamino) propyl] -C-α-D-xylopyranose; 5. C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; 7. C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane; 8. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-aminopropane; 9. C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane; 10. C-α-D-xylopyrano-2-phenylamino-propane; 11. 3-methyl-4- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 13. 6- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 15. 6- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 16. 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 17. 6- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 19. 6- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylaminohexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 30 21. 1- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 2903009 17 23. 5- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 25. 5- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 5 27. 5- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid; 28. 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid; 29. 5- (C- (3-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 5- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -4-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 31. 1- (C-13-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 10 32. 1- (C-α-D-xylopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 33. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one; 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one; 35. 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one; 1- (L-α-L-fucopyrano if) -propan-2-one; 37. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane; 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane; 39. 1- (C-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane; 40. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane; 41. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane; 42. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane; 43. 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane; 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-amino-propane; 45. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylaminopropane; 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino propane; 47. 1- (C-13-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino propane; 48. 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-phenylamino propane; 49. 3-methyl-4- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 50. 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 51. 3-methyl-4- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 3-methyl-4- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 2903009 18 53. 6- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 55. 6- (C-13-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 56. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 5 57. 6- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 59. 6- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 61. 6- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 63. 6- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid, 64. 6- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 65. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 66. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 67. 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol; 69. 5- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 70. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 71. 5- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 20 72. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -hexane-2,6-diol) -4-keto-pentanoic acid; 73. 5- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 75. 5- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 76. 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 25 77. 5- (C-P-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid; 78. 5- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid 79. 5- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid; 5- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -4-amino-pentanoic acid; 81. 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 82. 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 2903009 19 83. 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -pentane-2,5-diol; 85. 1- (C-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane; 86. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane; 5 87. 1- (C-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane; 88. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane; 89. 1- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylaminopropane; 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino propane; 91. 3-methyl-4- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 3-methyl-4- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 93. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 95. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 96. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 15 97. 6- (C -3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 98. 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 99. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 101. 1- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) hexane-2,6-diol; 102. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) hexane-2,6-diol; 103. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid; 105. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 25 107. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 109. 6- (C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 111. 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2,5-diol; 30 112. 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2,5-diol; 2903009 20 113. 1- (C-13-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane; 114. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane; 115. 1- (C-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane; 116. 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane; 5 117. 1- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-phenylaminopropane; 1- (Ca-D-galactopyrano-syl) -2-phenylamino-propane; 119. 3-methyl-4 - ((3-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 3-methyl-4- (α-D-galactopyranosyl) -butyric acid ethyl ester; 121. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 122. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 123. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 125. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 15 127. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 128. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid; 129. 1- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) hexane-2,6-diol; 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) hexane-2,6-diol; 131. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid; 132. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid; 133. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 134. acid
6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoique ; 135. acide 6-(C-13-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoique ; 136. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoique ; 25 137. acide 6-(C-(3-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 138. acide 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-pentanoique ; 139. 1-(C--D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol ; 140. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol ; 141. 1-(C-(3-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one ; 30 142. 1-(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one ; 2903009 21 143. 1-(C-(3-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one ; 144. 1. -(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one ; 145. 3'-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one ; 146. 3'-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one ; 5 147. 1-( acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane ; 148. 1 -( acétamido-C-f3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane ; 149. 1-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phénylamino-propane ; 150. 1 -(acétamido-C-a-D -glucopyranosyl)-2 -phénylamino-propane ; 151. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(acétamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyrique ; 10 152. ester éthylique de l'acide 3-méthyl-4-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)butyrique ; 153. acide 6-(acétamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 154. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-hexanoique ; 155. acide 6-(acétamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 156. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoique ; 15 157. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 158. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoique ; 159. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 160. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino-hexanoique ; 161. 1-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 20 162. 1 -(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol ; 163. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 164. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-céto-pentanoique ; 165. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy- pentanoique ; 166. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy- pentanoique ; 25 167. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino- pentanoique ; 168. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino- pentanoique ; 169. acide 6-(acétamido-C-(3-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino- pentanoique ; 170. acide 6-(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phénylamino- pentanoique ; 171. 1-(acétamido-C--D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol ; 3 0 172. 1 -(acétamido-C-a-D-glucopyrano syl)-p entane-2, 5-diol. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic; 135. 6- (C-13-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid; 136. 6- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-amino-pentanoic acid; 137. 6- (C- (3-D-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 138. 6- (CaD-galactopyranosyl) -5-phenylaminopentanoic acid; 139. 1- (C-D-) galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2,6-diol; 140. 1 - (CaD-galactopyranosyl) -pentane-2,6-diol; 1- (1- (C- (3-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one; 142. 1- (CaD-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one; 143. 1- (C- (3-L-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one; 144. 1. - (CaL-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one; 145. 3 '- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) propan-2'-one; 146. 3' - (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) propan-2 ' 147. 1- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane; 148. 1- (acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-amino-propane; 1- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane; 150. 1 - (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -2-phenylamino-propane; 151. ethyl ester of 3-methyl acid 4- (acetamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl) -butyric acid; 152. ethyl ester of 3-methyl-4- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) butyri acid 153. 6- (acetamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 154. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto hexanoic acid; 155. 6- (acetamido-C-13-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 156. 6- (acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid; 157. 6- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; 158. 6- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminohexanoic acid; acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid, 160. 6- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid, 161. 1- (acetamido-C- (3-D) -glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2,6-diol; 162. 1 - (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -hexane-2,6-diol; 163. 6- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) acid) -5-keto-pentanoic acid, 164. 6- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -5-keto-pentanoic acid, 165. 6- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid; 166. 6- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid, 167. 6- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminopentanoic acid, 168. 6- ( acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) -5-aminopentanoic acid, 169. 6- (acetamido-C- (3-D-glucopyranosyl) -5-phenylaminopentanoic acid, 170. 6- (acetamido-CaD-glucopyranosyl) acid - 5-phenylaminopentanoic; 1- (acetamido-C-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2,5-diol; 172. 1- (Acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -pentane-2,5-diol.
2903009 22 A titre illustratif et non limitatif des dérivés C-glycoside convenant plus particulièrement à l'invention, on peut notamment citer les dérivés suivants : - le C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, 5 le C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, le C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, le C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, la 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, la 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, 10 la 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, la 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one, le 1-(C-(3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, le 1-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, le 1-(C-(3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane, 15 le 1-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, le 1-(C-13-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, le 1-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, le 1-(C-13-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane, le 1-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane 20 la 1-(C-13-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, la 1-(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one - la 1-(C-(3-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, la 1-(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one, le C-(3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, 25 - le C-a-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one le C-(3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, le C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, leurs isomères et leurs mélanges.By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside derivatives which are more particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of the following derivatives: C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, 5 CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C- (3-D- fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaL -fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C (1- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (CaL-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C-13-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (CaD-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (C-13-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (CaD-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (C-13-D-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaD-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one 1- (C- (3-L-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaL-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, C- (3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane- 2-one, Ca-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one C- (3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, their isomers and mixtures thereof .
30 Selon un mode de réalisation, le C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane ou le C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, et mieux le 2903009 23 C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, peuvent être avantageusement mis en oeuvre pour la préparation d'une composition selon l'invention. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le dérivé C-glycoside peut être le C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane se présentant sous forme d'une solution à 30 % 5 en poids en matière active dans un mélange eau/propylène glycol (60/40 % en poids) tel que le produit fabriqué par CHIMEX sous la dénomination commerciale MEXORYL SBB . Bien entendu, selon l'invention, un dérivé C-glycoside répondant à la formule (I) peut être utilisé seul ou en mélange avec d'autres dérivés C-glycosides et en toute 10 proportion. Un dérivé C-glycoside convenant à l'invention peut notamment être obtenu par la méthode de synthèse décrite dans le document WO 02/051828. La quantité de dérivé C-glycoside à mettre en oeuvre dans une composition selon l'invention dépend de l'effet cosmétique ou thérapeutique recherché, et peut donc 15 varier dans une large mesure. L'homme de l'art peut aisément, sur la base de ses connaissances générales, déterminer les quantités appropriées. Une composition selon l'invention peut comprendre un dérivé C-glycoside à raison d'environ 0,0001 % à environ 25 % en poids en matière active par rapport au poids 20 total de la composition, et en particulier d'environ 0,001 % à environ 10 % en poids en matière active, et plus particulièrement d'environ 0,05 % à environ 5 % en poids en matière active de dérivé C-glycoside par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to one embodiment, C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and more preferably CpD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, may advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention According to one particular embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative may be CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a solution of 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight), such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name MEXORYL SBB.Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside derivative formula (I) may be used alone or in admixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention may in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in US Pat. WO 02/051828. The amount of derivative C- The glycoside to be used in a composition according to the invention depends on the desired cosmetic or therapeutic effect, and can therefore vary to a large extent. Those skilled in the art can easily, on the basis of their general knowledge, determine the appropriate quantities. A composition according to the invention may comprise a C-glycoside derivative in a proportion of about 0.0001% to about 25% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular of about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of active material, and more particularly from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of active C-glycoside derivative relative to the total weight of the composition.
25 Pour une utilisation en peeling, les mêmes teneurs peuvent être prévues dans les compositions correspondantes. On peut également utiliser des teneurs plus importantes pour améliorer encore l'effet desquamant recherché et/ou diminuer la teneur en agent desquamant dans l'association selon l'invention.For use in peeling, the same levels can be provided in the corresponding compositions. Larger levels can also be used to further improve the desired desquamating effect and / or to reduce the desquamating agent content in the combination according to the invention.
30 Le rapport massique entre l'agent desquamant et le dérivé C-glycoside peut varier en fonction des formulations galéniques et/ou des applications visées.The mass ratio between the desquamating agent and the C-glycoside derivative may vary depending on the galenic formulations and / or the intended applications.
2903009 24 Le rapport massique peut notamment aller de 0,0004 à 900, voire de 0, 004 à 600, de préférence de 0,01 à 300, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 150, voire de 0,01 à 100. En particulier dans des compositions anti-âge, le rapport massique entre l'agent 5 desquamant et le dérivé C-glycoside peut notamment aller de 0,01 à 100, de préférence de 0,01 à 60, plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 30, encore plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 10, de 0,01 à 5 , voire de 0,02 à 2%. Dans des compositions de peeling, le rapport massique entre l'agent desquamant et le dérivé C-glycoside peut notamment aller de 1 à 300, de préférence de 2 à 10 150 et encore plus préférentiellement de 2 à 100, voire de 2 à 50. AGENT ADDITIONNEL La composition selon la présente invention peuvent en outre comprendre au moins un agent additionnel cosmétique et/ou dermatologique destiné à améliorer l'aspect 15 et/ou le confort de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu. Cet agent additionnel peut notamment être un agent anti-âge et/ou anti-rides. L'agent anti-âge et/ou anti-rides peut notamment être choisi parmi : - un agent anti-glycation, tel qu'un extrait de myrtille (Vaccinium angusfifollium), par exemple celui vendu sous la dénomination "BLUEBERRY 20 HERBASOL EXTRACT PG" par la société COSMETOCHEM, un extrait de thé noir tel que le Kombuchka de Sederma, ou l'acide lipoique ou thioctique tel que le Nutralip de Labochim ; - un inhibiteur de NO-synthase, tel que les extraits de Gingko biloba, de Vitis vinifera ou d'Olea europaea ; 25 - un agent agissant sur les macromolécules dermiques ou épidermiques et/ou empêchant leur dégradation, tel que les extraits de Centella asiatica, les asiaticosides et dérivés ; l'acide ascorbique et ses dérivés; les peptides de synthèse tels que la iamin, le biopeptide CL ou le palmitoyl pentapeptide commercialisé par la société SEDERMA sous la dénomination commerciale Matrixil ; l'extrait de malt commercialisé par la société 30 COLETICA sous la dénomination commerciale Collalift ; le lycopène ; l'extrait de Saccharomyces cerevisiae disponible notamment auprès de la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Firmalift ou auprès de la société LSN sous la dénomination 2903009 25 commerciale Cytovitin .; soit sur l'inhibition de la dégradation de l'élastine tels que l'extrait peptidique de graines de Pisum sativum commercialisé par la société LSN sous la dénomination commerciale Parelastyl ; les composés N-acylaminoamides décrits dans la demande WO 01/94381 tels que l'acide {2-[acétyl-(3-trifluorométhyl-phényl)-amino]-3- 5 méthyl-butyrylamino} acétique, autrement nommé N-[N-acétyl, N'-(3-trifluorométhyl)phényl valyl]glycine ou N-acetyl-N-[3-(trifluoromethyl)phenyl]valylglycine ou acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, ou un ester de celui-ci avec un alcool en C1-C6. ; un extrait de peptides de riz tel que la Colhibin de Pentapharm, l'extrait d'algue brune Padina pavonica commercialisé par la société ALBAN MÜLLER sous la 10 dénomination commerciale HSP3 ; un extrait de Laminaria ochroleuca tel que la Laminaïne de Secma ; l'extrait de lupin commercialisé par la société SILAB sous la dénomination commerciale Structurine ; l'extrait de bourgeons de hêtre Fagus sylvatica commercialisé par la société GATTEFOSSE sous la dénomination commerciale Gatuline RC; un extrait peptidique de Voandzeia substerranea tel que celui commercialisé par la 15 société Laboratoires Sérobiologiques sous la dénomination commerciale Filladyn LS 9397 ; - un agent modulant la différenciation ou la prolifération des cellules, et notamment la différenciation des kératinocytes et/ou la prolifération des fibroblastes ou des kératinocytes et, tel que un extrait de soja (protéines hydrolysées de soja) tel que le 20 RIDULISSE de SILAB, le 1,3,5-triméthoxybenzène (phloroglucinol : un agent myorelaxant et/ou dermodécontractant, tel que le gluconate de magnésium, le gluconate de manganèse et autres sels, l'alvérine citrate et ses sels, la glycine, un extrait d'Iris pallida, un hexapeptide (Argériline R de Lipotec) ou les sapogénines comme le Wild yam et les amines carbonylées décrites dans la demande 25 EP1484052, et l'adénosine. un agent ayant notamment un rôle dermocontractant. Ces agents additionnels anti-âge sont généralement présents dans les compositions cosmétiques à des teneurs allant de 0,01 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,01 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de 30 la composition et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,01 à 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The weight ratio may especially range from 0.0004 to 900, or even from 0.004 to 600, preferably from 0.01 to 300, and even more preferably from 0.01 to 150, or even from 0.01 to 100. In particular in anti-aging compositions, the mass ratio between the desquamating agent and the C-glycoside derivative can especially range from 0.01 to 100, preferably from 0.01 to 60, more preferably from 0.01 to at 30, even more preferably from 0.01 to 10, from 0.01 to 5, or even from 0.02 to 2%. In peeling compositions, the mass ratio between the desquamating agent and the C-glycoside derivative may especially range from 1 to 300, preferably from 2 to 150 and even more preferably from 2 to 100, or even from 2 to 50. ADDITIONAL AGENT The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic and / or dermatological agent for improving the appearance and / or comfort of the skin and / or scalp. This additional agent may especially be an anti-aging and / or anti-wrinkle agent. The anti-aging and / or anti-wrinkle agent may especially be chosen from: an anti-glycation agent, such as a blueberry extract (Vaccinium angusfifollium), for example that sold under the name BLUEBERRY HERBASOL EXTRACT PG "by COSMETOCHEM, a black tea extract such as Sederma's Kombuchka, or lipoic or thioctic acid such as Labochim's Nutralip; an inhibitor of NO-synthase, such as extracts of Gingko biloba, Vitis vinifera or Olea europaea; An agent acting on dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, such as extracts of Centella asiatica, asiaticosides and derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives; synthetic peptides such as iamin, biopeptide CL or palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil; the malt extract marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Collalift; lycopene; the Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract available in particular from the company SILAB under the trade name Firmalift or from the company LSN under the name 2903009 25 commercial Cytovitin; or on the inhibition of the degradation of elastin, such as the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum marketed by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; the N-acylaminoamide compounds described in application WO 01/94381 such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, otherwise known as N- [N] acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or N-acetyl-N- [3- (trifluoromethyl) phenyl] valylglycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine, or an ester thereof with a C 1 -C 4 alcohol C6. ; an extract of rice peptides such as Pentapharm's Colhibin, the extract of the brown alga Padina pavonica marketed by the company Alban Müller under the trade name HSP3; an extract of Laminaria ochroleuca such as Laminaïne from Secma; the lupine extract marketed by SILAB under the tradename Structurine; the extract of beech buds Fagus sylvatica marketed by Gattefosse under the trade name Gatuline RC; a peptide extract of Voandzeia substerranea such as that marketed by Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trade name Filladyn LS 9397; an agent modulating the differentiation or the proliferation of the cells, and in particular the differentiation of keratinocytes and / or the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and, such as a soy extract (hydrolysed soy proteins) such as the RIDULISSE of SILAB, 1,3,5-trimethoxybenzene (phloroglucinol: a myorelaxing and / or dermodecontracting agent, such as magnesium gluconate, manganese gluconate and other salts, alverine citrate and its salts, glycine, an extract of Iris pallida, a hexapeptide (Argériline R from Lipotec) or sapogenins such as Wild yam and carbonyl amines described in application EP1484052, and adenosine, an agent having a particular role of dermocontractant.These additional anti-aging agents are generally present in the cosmetic compositions at contents ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to total amount of the composition and even more preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2903009 26 L'invention concerne donc également une composition comprenant : au moins un dérivé C-glycoside, au moins un agent desquamant choisi parmi l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique, l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique 5 (HEPES), un dérivé EDTA et leurs mélanges ; et au moins un agent additionnel anti-âge, et de préférence au moins deux agents anti-âge choisis parmi l'adénosine, un extrait de malt, un extrait de padina pavonica, un extrait de soja, un extrait de wild yam, et leurs mélanges.The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising: at least one C-glycoside derivative, at least one desquamating agent chosen from n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2- acid; ethane sulfonic acid (HEPES), an EDTA derivative and mixtures thereof; and at least one additional anti-aging agent, and preferably at least two anti-aging agents selected from adenosine, a malt extract, an extract of padina pavonica, a soy extract, an extract of wild yam, and their mixtures.
10 Les compositions selon l'invention comprennent un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. Par milieu physiologique acceptable , on entend désigner un milieu compatible avec les matières et/ou les fibres kératiniques d'êtres humains, comme par exemple, de manière non limitative, la peau, les muqueuses, les ongles, le cuir chevelu 15 et/ou les cheveux. Ce milieu physiologiquement acceptable comprend de l'eau, éventuellement en mélange ou non avec un ou plusieurs solvants organiques tels que des alcools en C1-C8, notamment l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le tert-butanol, le n-butanol, des polyols comme la glycérine, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol et des éthers de polyol.The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By acceptable physiological medium is meant a medium compatible with the materials and / or the keratinous fibers of human beings, such as, for example, without limitation, the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair. This physiologically acceptable medium comprises water, optionally mixed or not with one or more organic solvents such as C 1 -C 8 alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyol ethers.
20 Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique et peuvent donc comprendre un milieu cosmétiquement ou pharmaceutiquement acceptable. La composition peut également comprendre une phase grasse, qui peut comprendre des huiles, des gommes, des cires usuellement utilisées dans le domaine 25 d'application considéré. Comme huiles ou cires utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les huiles minérales (huile de vaseline), les huiles végétales (fraction liquide du beurre de karité, huile de tournesol, huile d'abricot, de son de riz...), les huiles animales (perhydrosqualène), les huiles de synthèse (huile de Purcellin), les huiles ou cires siliconées (cyclométhicone , dimethicone) et les huiles fluorées (perfluoropolyéthers), les 30 cires d'abeille, de carnauba, ou paraffine, le beurre de karité, l'huile de jojoba hydrogénée. On peut ajouter à ces huiles des alcools gras (cétyliques, stéaryliques, ...) et des acides gras (acide stéarique, ....).The compositions according to the invention may be a cosmetic or dermatological composition and may therefore comprise a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, which may comprise oils, gums, waxes usually used in the field of application under consideration. As oils or waxes that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (vaseline oil), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil, apricot oil, rice bran ...) , animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils (Purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone, dimethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), bees waxes, carnauba waxes, or paraffin waxes, shea butter, hydrogenated jojoba oil. To these oils can be added fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl, ...) and fatty acids (stearic acid, ....).
2903009 27 Lorsque la composition est une émulsion, la proportion de la phase grasse peut aller de 5 % à 80 % en poids, et de préférence de 5 % à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les cires, les émulsionnants et les coémulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement 5 utilisés dans le domaine cosmétique. L'émulsionnant et le coémulsionnant sont présents, dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3 % à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L'émulsion peut, en outre, contenir des vésicules lipidiques. Lorsque la composition est une solution ou un gel huileux, la phase grasse peut 10 représenter plus de 90 % du poids total de la composition. La composition peut contenir également des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine considéré, tels que les tensioactifs, les émulsionnants, les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les additifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres, les absorbeurs d'odeur et les matières 15 colorantes, d'autres actifs cosmétiques ou pharmaceutiques. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine cosmétique, et par exemple de 0,01 % à 10 % du poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse et/ou dans les sphérules lipidiques.When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, the waxes, the emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may further contain lipid vesicles. When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition. The composition may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the field in question, such as surfactants, emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters odor absorbers and dyestuffs, other cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and for example from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.
20 Comme tensioactifs susceptibles d'être utilisés, on peut citer par exemple le stéarate de glycérol, le polysorbate 60 et le mélange de PEG-6/PEG-32/Glycol Stéarate vendu sous la dénomination de TefoseR 63 par la société Gattefosse ; des dérivés PEG stéarate, des dérivés de sucres. Comme gélifiants hydrophiles utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les 25 polymères carboxyvinyliques (carbomer), les copolymères acryliques tels que les copolymères d'acrylates/alkylacrylates, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides tels que l'hydroxypropylcellulose, les gommes naturelles et les argiles, et, comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées comme les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras comme les stéarates d'aluminium et la silice hydrophobe, éthylcellulose, 30 polyéthylène. La composition peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques envisageables.Suitable surfactants which may be used include, for example, glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose® 63 by the company Gattefosse; PEG stearate derivatives, sugar derivatives. As hydrophilic gelling agents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays. and lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose, polyethylene. The composition may be in any conceivable galenic form.
2903009 28 Notamment, la composition peut avoir la forme d'une solution aqueuse, alcoolique, hydroalcoolique ou huileuse; d'une dispersion du type lotion ou sérum; d'une émulsion eau-dans-huile, huile-dans-eau ou multiple; d'une suspension; de microcapsules ou microparticules; de dispersions vésiculaires de type ionique et/ou non ionique; d'une 5 lotion aqueuse, huileuse ou sous forme de sérum; d'une mousse, d'une préparation solide par exemple de stick; d'une composition pour aérosol comprenant également un agent propulseur sous pression ou sous forme d'un patch. La composition selon l'invention peut se présentersous la forme d'une composition pour soins capillaires, notamment un shampooing, une lotion de mise en plis, 10 une lotion traitante, une crème ou un gel coiffant, une composition de teinture, notamment d'oxydation, des lotions restructurantes pour les cheveux, une composition de permanente (notamment une composition pour le premier temps d'une permanente), une lotion ou un gel antichute, un shampooing antiparasitaire. Elle peut également se présenter sous la forme d'une composition de nettoyage, 15 de protection, de traitement ou de soin pour le visage, pour les mains, pour les pieds, pour les grands plis anatomiques ou pour le corps (par exemple crèmes de jour, crème de nuit, crème démaquillante, composition anti-solaire, lait corporels de protection ou de soin, laits après-solaire, lotion, gel ou mousse pour le soin de la peau, comme des lotion de nettoyage, composition de bronzage artificiel); une composition de maquillage du corps ou 20 du visage telle qu'un fond de teint; une composition pour le bain; une composition désodorisante comprenant par exemple un agent bactéricide; une composition après-rasage; une composition épilatoire; une composition contre les piqûres d'insectes; une composition anti-douleur; une composition pour traiter certaines maladies de la peau comme l'eczéma, la rosacée, le psoriasis, les lichens, les prurits sévères.In particular, the composition may have the form of an aqueous, alcoholic, hydroalcoholic or oily solution; a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; a water-in-oil, oil-in-water or multiple emulsion; a suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; an aqueous, oily or serum lotion; a foam, a solid preparation for example stick; an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure or in the form of a patch. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo. It may also be in the form of a cleaning, protective, treatment or care composition for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example day, night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or skincare milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition) ; a body or facial makeup composition such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus.
25 Lorsque la composition selon l'invention est destinée à un usage de type peeling, elle peut également se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques évoquées ci-dessus pour autant qu'elle s'élimine facilement par rinçage, et notamment sous forme de gel aqueux, de solution aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique. Elle peut être appliquée par tout moyen permettant une répartition uniforme et notamment à l'aide d'un coton, d'une tige, d'un 30 pinceau, d'une gaze, d'une spatule ou d'un tampon, ou encore par pulvérisation, et peut être éliminée par rinçage à l'eau ou à l'aide d'un détergent doux. Selon un mode préféré de 2903009 29 réalisation de l'invention, la composition destinée au peeling chimique renferme une phase aqueuse continue. La présente invention a également pour objet une composition de soin de la peau et/ou du cuir chevelu, caractérisée en ce que l'agent desquamant est choisi parmi les 5 beta-hydroxyacides, tel que l'acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique ; l'urée et ses dérivés ; les acides glycolique, citrique, lactique, tartrique, malique ou mandélique ; l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N-2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) ; l'extrait de Saphora japonica ; le miel ; le N-acétyl glucosamine et les dérivés de l'acide 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylique (procystéine), et les extraits de laminaire tels que le laminaria saccharina et le laminaria 10 ochrolenca. La présente invention a enfin pour objet une composition de peeling caractérisée en ce que l'agent desquamant est présent en une teneur supérieure à 20 % en poids, par exemple allant de 21 % en poids à 70%% en poids, notamment de 21 à 50% et 15 encore plus préférentiellement de 21 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les exemples suivants illustrent la présente invention. EXEMPLES 20 Exemple 1 : Evaluation sur peau reconstruite de l'effet desquamant d'un mélange entre un agent desquamant et un dérivé C-glycoside Le test utilise un modèle de peau reconstruite: il consiste à évaluer par comptage au microscope le nombre de cornéocytes libérés après application du produit desquamant ou du mélange desquamant à tester.When the composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenic forms mentioned above provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. It can be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition for the chemical peel contains a continuous aqueous phase. The present invention also relates to a care composition of the skin and / or scalp, characterized in that the desquamating agent is selected from 5 beta-hydroxy acids, such as n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid; urea and its derivatives; glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); Saphora japonica extract; honey ; N-acetyl glucosamine and 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine), and laminar extracts such as laminaria saccharina and laminaria ochrolenca. The present invention finally relates to a peeling composition characterized in that the desquamating agent is present in a content greater than 20% by weight, for example ranging from 21% by weight to 70% by weight, in particular from 21 to 50% and even more preferably from 21 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The following examples illustrate the present invention. EXAMPLES Example 1: Evaluation on reconstructed skin of the desquamating effect of a mixture between a desquamating agent and a C-glycoside derivative The test uses a reconstructed skin model: it consists of evaluating by counting under the microscope the number of corneocytes released. after application of the desquamating product or the desquamating mixture to be tested.
25 Après mise en culture des modèles de peau reconstruite, les produits à tester sont appliqués en topique à différentes concentrations allant de 0,01 à 50% pour évaluer un effet dose. Les produits à tester sont : l'acide glycolique à des concentrations allant de 1 à 70% en poids de 30 matière active ; 2903009 30 le C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane en solution à 30 % en poids dans un mélange eau/propylèneglycol 60/40 mis en oeuvre à des concentrations allant de 0,01 à 10% en poids de matière active ; le mélange d'acide 5-n-octanoyl salicylique et de C-(3-D-xylopyranoside- 5 2-hydroxy-propane en solution à 30 % en poids dans un mélange eau/propylèneglycol 60/40. Le témoin négatif est constitué d'un volume équivalent d'eau MilliQ. Le témoin positif est une solution d'acide glycolique à 30%. Chaque condition est traitée en triplicate.After culturing the reconstructed skin models, the test products are applied topically at different concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 50% to evaluate a dose effect. The products to be tested are: glycolic acid at concentrations ranging from 1 to 70% by weight of active ingredient; C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in solution at 30% by weight in a water / propylene glycol 60/40 mixture used at concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight of active ingredient, the mixture of 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid and C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in solution at 30% by weight in a water / propylene glycol 60/40 mixture. Negative is a volume equivalent of MilliQ water The positive control is a solution of glycolic acid at 30% Each condition is treated in triplicate.
10 Une fois le temps d'action écoulé (10mn), les cornéocytes libérés, suite au traitement, sont comptés sur lames de verre. Les formulations suivantes sont préparées selon les méthodes classiques de l'homme du métier. Exemple 2 : Lotion Nom chimique % poids Acide Glycolique 10 Glycérine 3 C-R-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- 1,5% propane à 30 % en poids en matière (MA) active dans un mélange eau/ 1,2propanediol 60/40 Alcool éthylique 96 degrés non 10 dénaturé Eau déminéralisée stérilisée QsplOO MA : matière active 20 Exemple 3 : Crème huile-dans-eau Phase Nom chimique % poids A Conservateur qs Sel disodique de l'acide éthylène di- 0,15 amine tétracétique, 2 H2O 15 2903009 31 l'acide (N-2 hydroxyéthylpiperazine-N- 0,25 2-éthane) sulfonique (HEPES) Glycérine 3 C-(3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- propane à 30 % en poids en matière 10% (MA) active dans un mélange eau/ 1,2propanediol 60/40 Eau déminéralisée stérilisée _ 55,22 Mélange de mono-stéarate de glycéryle, stéarate de polyéthylène glycol (100 0,3 0E) (50/50) B Alcool cétylique pur, d'origine naturelle 0,4 Conservateur qs C Acide N-octanoyl-5 salicylique 1 N-lauroylsarcosinate d'isopropyle 10 Copolymère acide D acrylique/méthacrylate de stéaryle 0,5 polymérisé dans un mélange acétate d' éthyle/cyclohéxane Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (viscosité : 5 8 cSt) Eau déminéralisée stérilisée 10 E Alcool éthylique 96 degrés non dénaturé 5 Copolymère acrylamide/acrylamido 2- F méthyl propane sulfonate de sodium en 1 émulsion inverse à 40 % dans isoparaffine/eau H Tri-ethanolamine à 99 % 1,03 Eau déminéralisée stérilisée 7 MA= matière active La crème est appliquée quotidiennement sur la peau du visage et/ou du cou. On obtient des compositions agréables à appliquer qui présentent des propriétés 5 desquamantes sans toutefois provoquer de sensations de picotement, de tiraillement ou d'échauffement chez l'utilisateur.Once the action time has elapsed (10 minutes), the corneocytes released, following the treatment, are counted on glass slides. The following formulations are prepared according to conventional methods of the art. EXAMPLE 2 Lotion Chemical Name% by weight Glycolic Acid 10 Glycerin 3 CRD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-1.5% propane 30% by weight of material (MA) active in a mixture of water / 1,2-propanediol 60/40 ethyl alcohol 96 degrees non-denatured Demineralized sterilized water QsplOO MA: active ingredient Example 3: Oil-in-water cream Phase Chemical name% weight A Preservative qs Disodium salt of ethylene di- 0.15 amine tetracetic acid, 2 H2O 15 2903009 (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-0.25 2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES) Glycerin 3 C- (3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane at 30% by weight of material 10% (MA ) active in a mixture of water / 1,2-propanediol 60/40 Demineralized water, sterilized 55,22 Mixture of glyceryl mono-stearate, polyethylene glycol stearate (100 0,3 0E) (50/50) B Pure cetyl alcohol, d natural origin 0.4 Preservative qs C N-octanoyl-5 salicylic acid 1 Isopropyl N-lauroylsarcosinate 10 Acrylic acid copolymer D acryli 0.5 stearyl methacrylate polymerized in a mixture of ethyl acetate / cyclohexane Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 5 8 cSt) Demineralized sterilized water 10 E 96 degree undenatured ethyl alcohol 5 Acrylamide / acrylamido copolymer 2- F sodium methyl propane sulfonate in 1 inverse emulsion at 40% in isoparaffin / water H 99% Tri-ethanolamine 1.03 Demineralized sterilized water 7 MA = active ingredient The cream is applied daily to the skin of the face and / or the neck. Pleasant compositions to be applied which have desquamating properties are obtained without, however, causing tingling, tugging or heating sensations in the user.
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FR0606035A FR2903009B1 (en) | 2006-07-03 | 2006-07-03 | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A C-GLYCOSIDE DERIVATIVE AND A DESQUAMANT AGENT |
PCT/IB2007/052526 WO2008004164A2 (en) | 2006-07-03 | 2007-06-29 | Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition combining a c-glycoside derivative and a desquamating agent |
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FR3006587A1 (en) * | 2013-06-10 | 2014-12-12 | Oreal | COMPOSITION FOR CORRECTING SKIN DYSCHROMY AND IMPROVING THE HOMOGENEITY OF THE DYE |
FR3009957A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-03-06 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF SULFONIC AND ACRYLIC POLYMERS |
WO2018115239A1 (en) * | 2016-12-23 | 2018-06-28 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid and at least one alkylpolyglucoside |
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FR2924604A1 (en) * | 2007-12-06 | 2009-06-12 | Oreal | Cosmetic composition, useful for the make-up and/or care of lips, comprises a liquid fatty phase, hydrophilic polar phase comprising a water-miscible organic solvent, a surfactant and a C-glycoside derivative |
FR3006587A1 (en) * | 2013-06-10 | 2014-12-12 | Oreal | COMPOSITION FOR CORRECTING SKIN DYSCHROMY AND IMPROVING THE HOMOGENEITY OF THE DYE |
FR3009957A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-03-06 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF SULFONIC AND ACRYLIC POLYMERS |
WO2015028745A3 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-05-07 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonic polymer, a hydrophobic polysaccharide and a silicone surfactant |
CN105658199A (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2016-06-08 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising sulphonic polymer, hydrophobic polysaccharide and silicone surfactant |
WO2018115239A1 (en) * | 2016-12-23 | 2018-06-28 | L'oreal | Composition comprising hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid and at least one alkylpolyglucoside |
FR3061002A1 (en) * | 2016-12-23 | 2018-06-29 | L'oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID AND AT LEAST ONE ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE |
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