FR2969471A1 - COSMETIC APPLICATOR, MAKE-UP ASSEMBLY COMPRISING SUCH AN APPLICATOR AND USE OF SUCH AN ASSEMBLY - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic applicator comprising: - a sleeve (16) extending along a longitudinal axis (XX) to a free end (16a), - a handle (18) connected to the sleeve (16), - a central rod (14) s extending along the longitudinal axis (XX) to a free end (14a), the central rod (14) and the sleeve (16) being slidably mounted relative to each other, and - an applicator head ( 12) located at the free end (14a) of the central rod (14), the sleeve (16) forming at its free end (16a) a wiper member (17) adapted to dewater the applicator head (12). The sleeve (16) further has at its free end (16a) at least one recess (20) passing through radially and opening axially. The length of the rod (14) is adapted so that the applicator head (12) is able to be facing a recess portion (20) at the time of wringing by the wring member (17). ).

Description

COSMETIC APPLICATOR, MAKE-UP ASSEMBLY COMPRISING SUCH AN APPLICATOR AND USE OF SUCH AN ASSEMBLY

The present invention relates to cosmetic applicators, makeup sets comprising such applicators and the use of such sets. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic applicator comprising: - a sheath extending along a longitudinal axis 10 to a free end, - a handle connected to the sheath, - a central shaft extending along the longitudinal axis until at one free end, the central rod and the sleeve being slidably mounted relative to each other, and an applicator head located at the free end of the central rod, the sleeve forming at its free end a wiper member adapted to dewater the applicator head. Such cosmetic applicators provided with a sliding rod are known for example from US5121763 which describes a telescopic mascara applicator. Such applicators in which the shaft is out of the sleeve in its use position, but is retracted into its rest position, can protect the shaft when not in use. However, the use of these applicators whose stem passes from a retracted rest position to a use position in which the applicator head is outside the sleeve does not propose to selectively wring the applicator head. In addition, the state of the latter degrades very quickly due to the extended retracted position in the sheath. The present invention is intended to overcome this disadvantage.

For this purpose, according to the invention, the sheath further has at its free end at least one radially through recess and opening axially and the length of the rod is adapted so that at least a portion of the applicator head is capable of be facing at least a portion of said at least one recess at the time of wringing by the wiper member. With these provisions, the rod is dewatered as soon as it is retracted, except at the recess to allow an excess of cosmetic product quantified and localized on the applicator head. In various embodiments of the invention, one or more of the following arrangements may be used which may be considered independently or in combination: the sleeve is fixedly mounted to the handle and the central rod is slidably mounted relative to the sleeve, - the central rod is fixedly mounted to the handle 20 and the sleeve is slidably mounted relative to the central rod, the sleeve has at its free end two recesses which pass radially and which open axially, the two recesses being arranged symmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis, the recess has a shape making it possible to distribute the product specifically over one or more localized areas of the applicator head, the wall of the sheath has a variation of thickness in the vicinity of the recess, the applicator head is slidably mounted in the sheath between a position of use in which the applicator head is located outside the sheath and a retracted position in which the applicator head 35 is retracted into the sheath, - the handle is provided with an actuator for the change of position of the applicator head between a first position in which the applicator head is in the use position and a second position in which the applicator head is in the retracted position, - in this case the actuator further comprises an elastic member which is located in the handle and which is connected to one of the central rod and the sleeve - the resilient member (28) is in a rest position when the applicator head (12) is in the use position and is in a constrained position when the applicator head (12) is in the retracted position, - the applicator head further comprises a magnet and / or magnetic or magnetizable particles, - the Applicator head has reliefs, protruding and / or hollow. Furthermore, the subject of the invention is also a make-up assembly comprising a reservoir containing a cosmetic product to be applied and such a cosmetic applicator. The handle of the cosmetic applicator may also form a cap for the reservoir and the reservoir may further include a wiper adapted to wipe the sleeve. The applicator head may further comprise a magnet and / or magnetic or magnetizable particles when the cosmetic product is a powdery product comprising magnetic or magnetizable particles.

The subject of the invention is also the use of such a set of make-up for applying a cosmetic product to a surface, for example on the lips, on nails and / or on keratinous fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, etc.). .) or any other part of the human body that needs it.

The use of an applicator according to the invention comprises the following steps. The applicator head is first immersed in the cosmetic product reservoir in order to load the applicator head with cosmetic product, if however the applicator head is not already stored partially in the reservoir in direct contact with the cosmetic product. In a second step, the user retracts the applicator head into the sheath to wring it out of the surplus of cosmetic product except at the level of the recess, before extracting it out of the sheath in order to finally be able to apply on a surface the cosmetic product selectively distributed on the applicator head. The invention will be better understood and its advantages will appear better on reading the following detailed description of embodiments of the invention shown by way of non-limiting examples. The description refers to the accompanying drawings in which: - Figure 1A shows a longitudinal sectional view of an applicator according to the invention, the applicator head being in the position of use, - Figure 1B shows a longitudinal sectional view of the applicator of FIG. 1A, the applicator head being in the retracted position; FIG. 2A is a view of the applicator of FIG. 1A; FIG. 2B is a view of the applicator of FIG. FIG. 3A shows a longitudinal sectional view of an applicator according to another embodiment, the applicator head being in the position of use; FIG. 3B is a longitudinal sectional view of the applicator of FIG. 3A; with the applicator head in the retracted position; FIG. 4A is an enlarged perspective view of the applicator of FIG. 2A at the free end of the sleeve showing a recess; FIG. Fig. 5A shows an enlarged perspective view of a recess of the applicator according to a variant; FIG. 5B shows an enlarged perspective view of a recess of the applicator according to another variant; FIG. 6A is an enlarged perspective view of a recess of the applicator according to another variant; FIG. 6B represents an enlarged perspective view at the free end of the sheath of an applicator according to another variant, the sheath comprising two recesses; FIG. 7 represents a partial perspective view of an applicator showing an actuator according to a FIG. 8 represents a partial longitudinal sectional view of an applicator showing an actuator according to another variant, represents a detailed view of the invention, represents a view in detail of another variant, represents a view in detail of another variant, - Figure 10 shows a view of a make-up assembly according to the invention, - Figure 11 shows a view of a variant makeup assembly; and FIG. 9A applicator head according to FIG. 9B applicator head according to FIG. 9C applicator head according to FIG. 12 is a schematic view of a use of a makeup set. according to the invention. In the various figures, the same references denote identical or similar elements. FIGS. 1A and 1B show a cosmetic applicator 10, according to a first embodiment, which comprises an applicator head 12 located at the free end 14a of a central rod 14 which extends along a longitudinal axis XX . The central rod 14 is slidably mounted in a sleeve 16 which also extends along the longitudinal axis X-X. The sleeve 16 is fixedly and immovably connected to a handle 18 at one of its ends 16b, while its opposite end 16a is free. The applicator head 12 is slidably mounted in the sleeve 16 between a position of use, as illustrated in FIG. 1A in which the applicator head 12 is located outside the sleeve 16 and a retracted position, as illustrated in FIG. FIG. 1B, in which the applicator head 12 is retracted into the sheath 16. The use position corresponds to the position of use of the applicator in view of the loading of the applicator head 12 with cosmetic product and / or applying to a surface to be coated with said cosmetic product, while the retracted position corresponds to a position deliberately actuated by the user to wring the applicator head 12. More specifically, the free end 14a of the stem 14 is located in the vicinity of the free end 16a of the sleeve 16 in the use position (Figure 1A), while the free end 14a of the central rod 14 is returned to the inside of the sleeve 16 (Figure 1B) in the retracted position.

The sleeve 16 forms at its free end 16a a wiper member 17 adapted to dewater the applicator head 12 when the latter passes from its use position to its retracted position. In this case, in the use position (Figure 1A), the applicator head 12 is preferably located on all or part of its length outside the sleeve 16, while in the retracted position (Figure IB), the applicator head 12 is preferably fully retracted inside the sheath 16, the free end 12a of the applicator head is also preferably retracted into the sheath 16, so as to wring the applicator head to its free end 16a. FIGS. 3A and 3B show a cosmetic applicator 10 according to another embodiment in which the applicator head 12 located at the free end 14a of the central rod 14 is fixed immovably to the handle 18, while it is the sleeve 16 which movable relative to the applicator head 12 and with respect to the handle 18. Apart from these differences with the embodiment of FIGS. 1A and 1B, the applicator head 12 also adopts a position of use (illustrated in FIG. 3A) in which the applicator head 12 is located outside the sleeve 16 and a retracted position (illustrated in FIG. 3B) in which the applicator head 12 is in the sleeve 16. The rod 14 of the cosmetic applicator 10 illustrated on FIG. FIGS. 3A and 3B may advantageously be fixed to the handle 18 with a given orientation relative to the sheath 16. The applicator head 12 thus slides in the sheath 16 of the same so at each input / output and therefore does not depend on the manner in which the applicator head 12 is introduced into the sleeve 16 at the level of the wiper member 17.

Thanks to these provisions, it is thus possible to make the spin perfectly reproducible. It is also possible to dispense with the shape of the section of the applicator head 12 and that of the wiper member 17 of the sleeve 16, in order to limit the phenomenon of wear, particularly when the sections of the applicator head 12 and the wiper member 17 of the sleeve 16 are different, or when they are identical but no circular sections. Indeed, one can not overcome the manner in which the applicator head 12 enters the wiper member 17 of the sleeve 16 when the two sections are identical and circular. By way of example (not shown), in the case of an applicator head 12 and a wiper member 17 of triangular sections, the applicator head 12 can not be dewatered in a reproducible manner and / or avoid wear. with a conventional applicator since the user can either very difficult to choose between the only three orientations are possible to penetrate a triangle in another triangle if you do not want to spin more importantly the vertices of the triangle. With this embodiment of the applicator according to the invention in which the orientation of the applicator head 12 can be selectively oriented relative to the wiper member 17 of the sleeve 16, it is then possible to wring the applicator head 12 reproducibly and by limiting the wear or selectively spin the vertices of the applicator head 12 of triangular section so that said vertices are so-called "styling" areas because less loaded product and other parts of areas called " loaders "because more loaded product. This embodiment therefore makes it possible to perform differential spinning at the level of the applicator head 12 by allowing certain zones of said applicator head 12 to be dewatered selectively and differently. Moreover, with this embodiment, it is possible to relatively position the or the loading areas created on the applicator head 12 by the recess or recesses 20, 21, as described below, with respect to means placed on the handle 18. This facilitates the comfort of use because there is no need to orient the applicator 10 to put the applicator head 12 in the desired position depending on the manner in which we have grasped the grasping means. It is also possible to selectively orient the applicator head 12 according to the shape of its section in combination or not with the position of the product load zone or areas on the applicator head 12. Whatever the embodiment (applicator head 12 mobile or sheath 16 movable), the sleeve 16 further has at its free end 16a, as shown for example in Figure 2A, at least one recess 20 which passes radially through the sleeve 16 and which opens axially along the axis XX towards the free end 16a of the sheath. Each recess 20 creates a rupture zone of the wiper member 17. In fact, the sleeve 16 and the central rod 14 extend along the longitudinal axis XX in a cylindrical manner, the wiper member 17 being formed at the periphery of the free end 16a of the sleeve 16, as best illustrated in Figure 4A. Figure 2B shows the cosmetic applicator 10 in the retracted position, the end 12a of the applicator head 12 being completely inserted inside the sheath. A portion of the applicator head 12 is visible through the recess 20. It is understood that the portion 12c of the applicator head 12 which is in this recess 20 is not dewatered by the wiper 17, while the remaining of the applicator head (part 12d) is wrung out as soon as the latter is retracted inside the sleeve 16. More specifically, the dimensional characteristics of the space 22 available between the applicator head 12 and the sleeve 16 has a direct impact. on the spinning of the applicator head12. Indeed, it is understood that more space 22 will be narrow, the spin will be important. The recess 20 preferably extends longitudinally along the X-X axis and may also have various shapes depending on the desired application. In FIGS. 2A-2B and 4A-4B, the recess 20 is of oblong shape, while the recess illustrated in detail in FIG. 5A is conical with a base 20a located at the end 16a of the tube, while that the top 20b of the cone of the recess 20 is remote relative to the end 16a of the tube 16. The portion 12c is of course of a shape corresponding to that of the recess 20 whatever the shape of the latter . In the case of a conical recess as shown in Figure 5A, the portion 12c of the rod 12 which is not dewatered is of progressively larger shape when approaching the free end 12a. Thus, the recess 20 may be of various shape, so as to define a portion 12c not dewatered by the sheath 16 (that is to say, more loaded cosmetic product) which has or not a width (substantially constant along For example, the recess 20 illustrated in FIG. 5A of flared shape has a decreasing width C along the axis XX when one moves away from the free end 16a of the sheath 16. recess 20 may also be stair-shaped, possibly combined with the flared shape as illustrated in FIG. 5A.

Moreover, as illustrated for example in FIG. 6A, the wall of the sheath 16 may have a variation of thickness e20 in the vicinity of the recess 20 to vary the force of the wringing of the applicator head 12 by the sleeve 16 The more free space available for the applicator head 12 is large inside the sleeve 16, the less the applicator head 12 will be dewatered. However, the available free space depends for a given applicator head 12 of the thickness e20 of the inner wall of the sleeve 16. Thus, the force of the spin varies with the thickness e20 of the inner wall of the sleeve 16. More the thickness e20 is important and the strength of the spin is too. In the present case, as illustrated for example in FIG. 6A, the thickness e20 of the wall of the recess 20 varies, preferably increasing progressively from the free end 16a of the sleeve 16 to the bottom of the recess 20 The sheath 16 may further have at least one second recess. The different recesses are possibly similar or different. The recesses are preferably distributed symmetrically on the free end 16a of the sleeve 16 about the longitudinal axis X-X. In this case, as shown in FIG. 6B, the sleeve 16 has a second recess 21 passing radially and opening axially, the first recess 20 and the second recess 21 are arranged symmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis X-X. Note that both the position of the recess or recesses 20,21 on the sleeve 16, as their shape characteristics, can be combined to adapt the capabilities of the applicator to the desired makeup result. To pass the applicator head 12 from one position to the other, the cosmetic applicator is preferably provided with an actuator connected to the central rod 14. In the present case, as illustrated in FIGS. 1A-1B and 2A -2B, the handle 18 has a slot 24 in which an actuator 26 can move. The actuator 26 is movable between a first position as illustrated in FIGS. 1A and 2A in which the applicator head is in the use position, and a second position as illustrated in FIGS. 1B and 2B, in which the applicator head 12 is in the retracted position. Other mechanisms are possible in order to move the applicator head from the retracted position to the position of use, such as rotary type mechanisms used for lipsticks. With this type of mechanism, a rotational movement of a portion of the housing causes a translational movement of the application element. This type of mechanism is preferred for an applicator head and a sleeve having circular sections. The slot 24 can be bayonet-shaped as illustrated in FIG. 7, in which case the actuator 26 can slide freely between a first end 24a in which it can be locked in its first position and a second end 24b in which it can be locked in its second position. Between these two extreme positions, the actuator 26 can slide freely along the central slot 24c as soon as it is actuated. When the applicator head 12 is movable relative to the handle 18, this actuator 26 is connected directly to the central rod 14, as illustrated in FIG. 1A, or by any other means allowing the rod 14 to slide in the sheath. by actuation of the actuator 26. While when the sleeve 16 is movable, this actuator 26 is connected directly to the sleeve 16, as shown in Figure 3A, or by any other means allowing the sliding of the sleeve 16 around the rod 14 by actuation of the actuator 26. An elastic member 28 may be provided for this purpose to further recall the actuator 26 to the position 5 of use. In the present case, as best illustrated in Figures 1A-1B, when the applicator head 12 is movable relative to the handle 18, the elastic member 28 is housed between the rear end 14b of the rod 14 (opposite to The free end 14a) and the bottom 18b of the handle 18. For this purpose, the handle 18 defines with its longitudinal wall a chamber between the rear end 18b and a front end 18a in which the elastic member 28 is confined. This chamber 30 may be provided at its rear end 18b with a central pin 32 for centering the elastic member 28, in particular when it is a helical coil spring, as illustrated in FIG. FIGS. Similarly, the rear end 14b of the rod 14 may be similarly provided with another lug 34 having the same function. The coil spring 28 is preferably a compression spring so that the use position corresponds to a natural position of the latter. Indeed, when the actuator 26 is in its second position (where it is held by the user), as soon as it is released, the coil spring 28 relaxes and drives the rod 14 out. of the sheath 16. In order to ensure good stability of the sliding of the rod 14 within the sheath, the rear end 14b of the rod 14 may be provided with a sleeve 35 adapted on the one hand, to slide on In the interior of the chamber 30, and on the other hand, to receive a portion in this case, a few turns of the spring 28. The front end 18a of the chamber 30 also forms a stop for the sleeve 35. The sleeve 16 thus extends between its free end 16a and the front end 18a of this chamber. Thus, the sliding of the rod 14 can be substantially coaxially within the sleeve 16.

When the sleeve 16 is movable relative to the handle 18, as best illustrated in FIGS. 3A-3B, the elastic member 28 is housed between the rear end 16b of the sleeve 16 (opposite the free end 16a) and the front end 18a of the chamber 30. For this purpose, the handle 18 defines with its longitudinal wall a chamber 30 between the rear end 16b and a front end 18a in which the elastic member 28 is confined. The centering of the elastic member 28 is made in this chamber being mounted coaxially with the sleeve 16, in particular when it is a helical coil spring, as shown in the figures. The coil spring 28 is preferably a compression spring so that the use position corresponds to a natural position of the latter. Indeed, when the actuator 26 is in its second position (where it is maintained by the user), as soon as it is released, the coil spring 28 relaxes and drives the sleeve 16 part- above the rod 14, more precisely over the applicator head 12.

To ensure good stability of the sliding of the sleeve 16 around the rod 14, the handle may be provided with a central pin 32 for fixed connection of the rod 14 to the handle 18. In addition, the rear end 16b of the sheath 16 may be provided with a sleeve 35 adapted on the one hand, to slide inside the chamber 30, and on the other hand, to receive a part - in this case, a few turns - of the spring 28. The front end 18a of the chamber 30 also forms a stop for the sleeve 35.

The presence of the spring 28 makes it possible to simplify the slot 24, which therefore no longer requires a bayonet shape as shown in FIG. 7, but may simply be straight extending along the longitudinal axis XX, such as best seen in Figure 2A.

The elastic member may be a coil spring 28, as shown in FIGS. 1A-1B, but may also be replaced by a leaf spring, for example as illustrated in FIG. 8 or by any other type of spring. elastic member of known type.

Moreover, the applicator head 12 can be of any kind. In particular, it may be a brush composed of a rigid metal core and bristles, a molded and / or injected plastic brush with or without bristles (not shown in the figures), a flocked tip. It can also be metallic. In the latter case, the applicator head 12 will preferably be in the form of a helix, like a screw thread as illustrated in the figures and better seen in detail in FIG. 9A. According to another variant, the cosmetic applicator 10 may further comprise a magnet 13 placed in the applicator head 12 provided with a housing for this purpose as illustrated in FIG. 9B or the applicator head 12, in particular when it is metallic, can itself be magnetized. The applicator head 12 may also be made using a material comprising magnetic or magnetizable particles capable of generating a magnetic field. Magnetizable particles are understood to mean particles capable of generating a magnetic field when they have been subjected to a magnetic field serving to magnetize them, whether for the applicator head or for the cosmetic product, as mentioned hereafter in one of the following: embodiments. The magnetization of said particles may be performed after the manufacture of the applicator head and / or the cosmetic product, or by virtue of a magnet integrated into the applicator itself or to the makeup assembly according to the invention. These magnetic properties are particularly sought after when the cosmetic product that it is desired to apply with this cosmetic applicator 10 also has such magnetic properties, as described in detail hereinafter. According to another variant, the applicator head 12 may have reliefs (protuberances and / or recesses); in the present case, as illustrated for example in FIG. 9C, the applicator head 12 is provided with a plurality of protuberances 15 which are preferentially regularly distributed on the surface of the applicator head 12. In this case, the applicator head 12 is preferably obtained by injection molding. FIG. 10 represents a make-up assembly comprising a reservoir 36 containing a cosmetic product 38 and a cosmetic applicator 10, as described previously. This set of makeup may be contained in a box 40 provided with housings respectively adapted to receive the reservoir 36 and the applicator 10.

The cabinet 40, like the tank 36, may be of varied shape, with or without a lid. The makeup assembly may also be in the form of a cylindrical reservoir extending along the longitudinal axis XX, in which case the handle 18 of the applicator 10 may form a plug for the reservoir 42 and is arranged so that the applicator head 12 soaks in the cosmetic product 38 to be applied, when the handle 18 closes the reservoir 42, as illustrated in FIG. 11. The reservoir 42 may also be provided with a wiper member 44 for wiping the sleeve 16 when the latter is removed from the reservoir 42. Such a makeup set is particularly intended for the makeup of lips, nails or keratin fibers, especially eyelashes, and allows a precise application and a controlled dosage of the cosmetic product, in particular for mascara. The use of this cosmetic applicator may be preferentially as described below. Starting from a set of make-up as illustrated in FIG. 10, after extracting the applicator 10 from its housing formed in the box 40, the user / user can massively load the applicator head 12 with cosmetic product 38 (the applicator head 12 being in the use position out of the sleeve 16). The user / user then retracts the applicator head into the sleeve 16 with the aid of the actuator 26 to wring out the excess of cosmetic product 38 with the aid of the wiper member 17. To do this, the the user slides the actuator 26 to its second position (as shown in FIGS. 1B and 2B), then releases the actuator 26 which then naturally returns to its first position in which the applicator head 12 is located 16. During this operation, the applicator head 12 has been sprayed with the surplus of cosmetic product 38 in the portion 12d in contact with the wiper 17, while the portion 12c, which corresponds to the portion of the stem. with regard to the recess 20, remains charged with cosmetic product 38.

The user / user can then load the surface that he / she wants to cover into a cosmetic product, for example lips, nails, or any type of keratin fibers, for example eyelashes 46, as illustrated in FIG. figure 12.

In order to load the eyelashes 46, the user / user first preferably uses the portion 12c which is the most loaded cosmetic product 38, then applies the cosmetic product by distributing it on the eyelashes 46 using the part 12d of the applicator head 12 which has been previously dewatered. During these operations, the actuator 26 allows the user / user to easily locate the position of the portion 12c of the applicator head 12 loaded with cosmetic product, since they are preferably in the same alignment according to the invention. longitudinal axis XX. When the cosmetic applicator 10 comprises an applicator head 12 further comprising a magnet 13, the loading of the applicator head 12 into a cosmetic product 38 is also done by magnetic attraction. Preferably, the cosmetic product 38 comprises iron oxides (Fe3O4) conferring on it the desired magnetic properties, or a similar component. Advantageously, the cosmetic product comprises nacres containing said iron oxides or the like. A set of make-up according to this particular embodiment can be advantageously used for applying to a surface a cosmetic product 38 in the form of a magnetic or magnetizable powdery material, said powdery material being held by attraction on the applicator head. Such a makeup set is particularly suitable for the application as a powdery material of a magnetic makeup powder on the eyelashes, the surface of the eyelashes having been previously coated with a first cosmetic product 38, such as a mascara. Moreover and generally, a make-up assembly according to the invention is particularly suitable for depositing a second cosmetic product 38 on a surface having already wholly or partially received a first cosmetic product 38. For example, a first mascara is applied to the eyelashes using a known applicator of the prior art (or a second applicator according to the invention) and decorative effects are carried out using a makeup set according to the invention. invention particularly suitable for performing a very localized application such as retouching. In the case of the makeup assembly as illustrated in FIG. 11, the user removes the cap 18 from the reservoir 42 by grasping the handle 18 (which can be screwed onto the reservoir 42). The sheath 16 is then wiped with a possible surplus of cosmetic product during this operation by means of the wiper member 44, and the user then performs the same operations as those mentioned above. makeup set as figure 10. 15

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic applicator comprising: - a sleeve (16) extending along a longitudinal axis (XX) to a free end (16a), - a handle (18) connected to the sleeve (16), - a central rod (14) extending along the longitudinal axis (XX) to a free end (14a), the central shaft (14) and the sleeve (16) being slidably mounted relative to each other, and - a head applicator (12) located at the free end (14a) of the central rod (14), the sleeve (16) forming at its free end (16a) a dewatering member (17) adapted to dewater the applicator head (12). ), characterized in that the sheath (16) further has at its free end (16a) at least one recess (20) extending radially through and opening axially, and in that the length of the rod (14) is adapted so that at least a portion of the applicator head (12) is capable of facing at least a portion of said at least one recess (20) at the time of thunderstorm by the wiper member (17). 2. Cosmetic applicator according to claim 1, wherein the sleeve (16) is fixedly mounted to the handle (18) and the central rod (14) is slidably mounted relative to the sleeve (16). Cosmetic applicator according to claim 1, wherein the central shaft (14) is fixedly mounted to the handle (18) and the sleeve (16) is slidably mounted relative to the central shaft (14). 4. Cosmetic applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sheath (16) has at its free end (16a) two recesses (20, 21) extending radially through and opening axially, 21 said recesses (20, 21) being arranged symmetrically with respect to the longitudinal axis (XX). 5. Cosmetic applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wall of the sheath (16) has a thickness variation (e20) in the vicinity of the recess (20). 6. Cosmetic applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the applicator head (12) is slidably mounted in the sheath (16) between a position of use in which the applicator head (12) is located outside the sheath. (16) and a retracted position in which the applicator head (12) is retracted into the sleeve (16). Cosmetic applicator according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said handle (18) is provided with an actuator (26) for changing the position of the applicator head (12) between a first position in which the applicator head (12) is in the use position and a second position in which the applicator head (12) is in the retracted position. 8. Cosmetic applicator according to the preceding claim, wherein the actuator (26) further comprises a resilient member (28) which is located in the handle (18) and which is connected to one of the elements of the central rod ( 14) and the sleeve (16). 9. Cosmetic applicator according to the preceding claim, wherein the elastic member (28) is in a rest position when the applicator head (12) is in the use position and is in a constrained position when the applicator head (12). is in the retracted position. Cosmetic applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the applicator head (12) further comprises a magnet (13) and / or magnetic or magnetizable particles. 11. Cosmetic applicator according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the applicator head (12) has reliefs (15). 12. Makeup set comprising a reservoir (36; 42) containing a cosmetic product (38) to be applied and a cosmetic applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims. 13. Set of makeup according to the preceding claim, wherein the handle (18) of the cosmetic applicator (10) forms a cap for the reservoir (42) and wherein the reservoir (42) further comprises a wiper member. (44) adapted to wipe the sheath (16). The make-up set according to claim 12 or 13, wherein the applicator head (12) further comprises a magnet (13) and / or magnetic or magnetizable particles and wherein the cosmetic product (38) is a powdery product comprising magnetic or magnetizable particles. 15. Use of a make-up set according to any of claims 12 to 14 for applying a cosmetic product (38) to a surface (46).