FR2965476A1 - Preparing a cosmetic composition, useful for care and/or make-up of keratin materials e.g. skin, comprises adding a first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient comprising e.g. lipophilic sunscreens with volatile linear alkanes, in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparing a cosmetic composition comprises adding, to a medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, at least a first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient comprising (i) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactant, (iii) lipophilic clay activated by 2-4C monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) filler, and (v) coloring agent mixed with hydrocarbon additional dispersant, in the form of a pre-mix with one or more 9-14C volatile linear alkanes. Independent claims are included for: (1) the pre mix obtained by the process comprising: at least one coloring agent additional mixed with hydrocarbon dispersant and dispersed in one or more 9-14C volatile linear alkane; at least one lipophilic clay activated by 2-4C monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, and dispersed in one or more 9-14C volatile linear alkane; (2) a cosmetic composition-I obtained by the process, comprising (A) the pre mix of at least one first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient with one or more 9-14C volatile linear alkane and (B) at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, where the pre mix is present at at least 30 wt.% of the composition; and (3) a cosmetic composition-II, in a medium, comprising at least one lipophilic cosmetic pre mix ingredient comprising sunscreen filter and silicone surfactant and at least one or more 9-14C volatile linear alkane.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of certain lipophilic cosmetic raw materials in the form of a premix with one or more volatile linear alkane (s), in cosmetic compositions, especially cosmetic care compositions and / or or make-up of keratin materials.

By `keratin materials' is meant in particular skin, lips, nails, and keratin fibers, such as hair and eyelashes.

The use of said premixes according to the invention makes it possible in particular to facilitate the manufacture of cosmetic products at the industrial level by simple mixing with the other ingredients of the oily phase prepared separately, in particular by avoiding a step of grinding in the tank for pulverulent raw materials or high viscosity, delicate and expensive, before mixing.

The preparation of these premixes also makes it possible to have better dispersed raw materials, leading to an improvement in the cosmetic performances obtained, intrinsic to said raw materials. It can thus be expected to improve the properties of SPF for a sunscreen, those of emulsification for a silicone surfactant, those of gelling for a clay, those of holding and / or optical effect and / or dullness for a load, those coverage and / or shade for the coloring agents.

It is known to one skilled in the art to use solvents, in order to convey certain cosmetic raw materials in the form of pre-blends. These solvents are chosen according to the chemical nature of the raw materials to be conveyed so as to solubilize them or to disperse them homogeneously. They can be oily or aqueous, volatile or nonvolatile. These raw materials may be active ingredients, which are then in the form of extracts, or gelling agents which lead to the formation of a gel with the solvent, surfactants, fillers, or else coloring agents. which form with the solvent pigment pastes. They are most often solubilized or dispersed in volatile oily solvents such as cyclic silicones, branched alkanes such as isododecane or solvents of petroleum origin such as isoparaffins.

However, these volatile oily solvents, which may be present in large quantities associated with the cosmetic raw materials in the premixes, may alter the cosmetic properties of the composition on application, in particular induce a lack of comfort (sensation of dryness). It is therefore necessary to find a new oily solvent, to solubilize or disperse lipophilic raw materials, which does not have the defects mentioned above. We have unexpectedly found that it is possible and advantageous to convey lipophilic sunscreens, silicone surfactants, lipophilic clays, lipophilic fillers, or lipophilic coloring agents in specific volatile linear alkanes, without having the disadvantages mentioned above. The use of volatile linear alkanes from plants is also an advantageous alternative to silicone solvents and petrochemical solvents. These lipophilic raw materials are solubilized or dispersed in these volatile linear alkanes so as to form a premix which is then used during the manufacture of the cosmetic product.

In addition to pre-blends, the invention also covers all cosmetic compositions manufactured using a premix in the form of a dispersion or a prior solution, of the raw material (s) of the invention in one or more alkanes. Volatile linear systems of the invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, comprising adding, to a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, at least one first ingredient. lipophilic cosmetic chosen from: (i) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactants, (iii) lipophilic clays activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) fillers, (v) coloring agents mixed with an additional hydrocarbon dispersant in the form of a premix with one or more C9-C14 volatile linear alkanes.

Preferably, the premix consists of an ingredient selected from (i) to (v) or their mixture (s) and volatile linear or C9-C14 alkanes, ie it does not contain any other ingredients than these.

The invention also relates to a premix capable of being used in a process according to the invention, consisting of at least one first cosmetic ingredient chosen from (i) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactants (iii) lipophilic clays activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) fillers, (v) coloring agents mixed with an additional hydrocarbon dispersant, and one or more volatile linear alkanes. in C9-C14.

According to one particular embodiment, the premix capable of being used in a process according to the invention consists of at least one coloring agent mixed with an additional hydrocarbon dispersant and dispersed in one or more C9 volatile linear alkanes. -C14.

According to another particular embodiment, the premix capable of being used in a process according to the invention consists of at least one lipophilic clay activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, and dispersed in a or more volatile linear C9-C14 alkanes

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition that can be obtained by the process of the invention and characterized in that it comprises (A) a premix of at least one first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient chosen from: ) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactants, (iii) lipophilic clays activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) fillers, (v) coloring agents mixed with a dispersant additional hydrocarbon, with one or more volatile linear alkanes C9-C14, and (B) at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, said premix representing at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition (cosmetic product) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, said premix and at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, said premix possibly constituting from 3 to 98% by weight of the total weight of the the composition, especially from 3 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

In particular, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least one first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient chosen from lipophilic sunscreens and silicone surfactants, (ii) at least one or more alkanes. linear volatile C9-C14, and at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, the total content of (i) and (ii) may constitute from 3 to 98% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular from 3 to 50% by weight and in particular 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). By "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is meant a linear cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg, that is to say 101 325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure. (760 mmHg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. after. Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m3 regulated temperature (25 ° C) and humidity (relative humidity 50%) 15 g volatile hydrocarbon solvent . The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in min).

Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6,000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C). In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. In particular, the flash point is measured according to ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane that is suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one carbon isotope 14C. (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and better or better than 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 14C / 12C is from 6.10-13 to 1.2.10-12. The quantity of isotopes 14C in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry). Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

By way of example of alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11) and n-dodecane (C12). , ntridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the volatile linear alkane (s) are chosen from n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises dodecane. According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises tetradecane.

According to another preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. It is also possible to mention n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile linear alkane alone can be used. It is alternatively or preferentially possible to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2 .

According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1. As examples, mention may be made especially of volatile linear alkanes mixtures C10 / C11, Cl1 / C12 or C12 / C13. According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2. As examples, mention may in particular be made of volatile linear alkanes mixtures C1 0 / C12, or C12 / C14, for a number of carbon n even and the mixture Cl 1 / C13 for an uneven carbon number n. According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. Volatile linear Cl 1 / C13 or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes. Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 9 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, C n volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 9 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear Cn + alkane x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 10 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear C11 (n-undecane) alkane, from 20 to 45, will be used % by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. According to one particular embodiment, the alkane mixture is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059. According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL. According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL. In yet another embodiment, a mixture of ndodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

The volatile alkane (s) may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention in a content ranging from 10% to 99.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the premix, preferably ranging from 45% to 95% by weight. weight, and more preferably ranging from 50% to 90% by weight. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise any other volatile oil than the volatile linear alkane or alkanes. In another embodiment, the composition may further comprise a liquid fatty phase comprising other volatile and non-volatile oils.

DISPERSED LIPOPHILIC RAW MATERIALS IN VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES According to the invention, the lipophilic raw materials conveyed in the form of pre-mixtures are in particular lipophilic pulverulent raw materials or lipophilic raw materials of high viscosity. They may be lipophilic sunscreens, silicone surfactants, lipophilic gelling clays, in particular activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol (eg ethanol), lipophilic fillers, or lipophilic coloring agents, in particular mixed with a hydrocarbon surfactant for the latter.

SOLAR FILTERS According to a first variant of the invention, the pre-mix consists of one or more lipophilic filters solubilized or homogeneously dispersed in at least one of the volatile linear alkanes described above. According to the invention the filter or filters may be of mineral or organic nature. Examples of lipophilic mineral filters are titanium nano oxides or zinc nano oxides. Examples of lipophilic organic filters that may be mentioned include cinnamic acid derivatives, such as isopentyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, methyl diisopropyl cinnamate, 4-methoxy cinnamate and the like. isoamyl, 4-methoxy cinnamate diethanolamine. Among the derivatives of cinnamic acid mentioned above, it is most particularly preferred, according to the present invention, to use 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX" by GIVAUDAN; this filter therefore corresponds to the following structural formula: OMe C4H9 Among the salicylic acid derivatives that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of homomenthyl salicylate, also known under the name of homosalate, such as the product commercially available under the name the name "KEMESTER HMS" by the company Witco. It corresponds to the following formula: OHCO 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL 0-18" by BASF, and having the following formula: COOCH2CHC4H9 C2H5 OH 5 The family of filters derived from dibenzoylmethane and especially 4-tert.-butyl-4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane can advantageously be mentioned as absorbent in UV-A, sold under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the Company. GIVAU DAN which has the following structural formula: OCH 3 CH 2 Another dibenzoylmethane derivative according to the present invention is 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, a filter sold under the name "Eusolex 8020" by the company Merck, and having the structural formula following: CH2 Similarly, the 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-R, R-diphenylacrylate, also called octocrylene,

15 is a liquid lipophilic filter known for its activity in UV-B. It is sold in particular under the name "Uvinul N 539" by the company BASF and II has the following formula: C = C-COOCH2CHC4H9 (V1 CN C2H5 in which denotes a phenyl radical.) As another lipophilic filter for use in the invention may also be mentioned ethylbenzylidene camphor known as absorbent in the UV-B and sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck.

As another lipophilic filter that may be used in the invention, 2,4,6-tris [p- (2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3,5-triazine may also be mentioned as absorbent in the UV-B and which is sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL T 150" by BASF. This product has the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R denotes a 2-ethylhexyl radical. Finally, mention may be made of benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, known as an absorbent in UV-A and UV-B and sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 4360" by Merck. . The lipophilic sunscreen (s) may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content that may vary from 0.2 to 50%, preferably from 5 to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of said premix. According to a second variant of the invention, the pre-mixture consists of one or more silicone nonionic surfactants solubilized or homogeneously dispersed in at least one of the volatile linear alkanes described above. The silicone nonionic surfactants may be chosen from polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones with polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and / or polyoxypropylenated (or PPO) side groups and / or hydrophilic polyoxyalkylenic (or PPO) end groups having alkyl side groups. C1 to C20, the poly-dialkyl silicones with side groups and / or poly glycerolated or glycerolated end and their mixture.

The silicone nonionic surfactant is preferably chosen from: - polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones with polyoxyalkylene (or POE) and / or polyoxypropylenated (or PPO) polyoxyalkylenic and / or hydrophilic end groups, comprising alkyl side groups more hydrophobic than the linear and branched C 1 to C 20, and preferably C 4 to C 20, groups, preferably straight-chain alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl. These surfactants can still carry organosiloxane side groups. In particular, in this first category, mention may be made of: polydimethylsiloxanes with POE side groups and with alkyl side groups, such as in particular Cety1 PEG-PPG 10/1 dimethicone, sold under the name ABIL EM90 by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT; - Branched polydimethyl siloxanes with alkyl side groups, such as in particular Iauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6038 by the company Shin Etsu.

- It - polydialkyl silicones with side groups and / or polyglycerolated or glycerolated end. These silicone surfactants also preferably comprise linear or branched C1 to C20 alkyl side groups, and also preferably linear alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl. Similarly, these silicone and glycerolated surfactants can, in addition, carry organosiloxane side groups.

In particular, in this category, mention may be made of: polydimethyl siloxanes with polyglycerolated side groups, such as polyglyceryl-3-disiloxane dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6100 by the company Shin Etsu; polyglycerolated side-branched polydimethyl siloxanes, such as polyglyceryl-3 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6104 by the company Shin Etsu; Branched polydimethyl siloxanes with polyglycerol side groups and alkyl side groups, such as lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6105 by Shin Etsu. The silicone nonionic surfactant may in particular be chosen from: - a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, that is to say an oxypropylenated and / or oxyethylenated poly (C 8 -C 22) dimethyl methyl siloxane alkyl.

The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of the following formula (1): ## STR2 ##

In which: - PE represents (-C 2 H 4 O) x- (C 3 H 6 O) y R, where R is chosen from an atom of hydrogen and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging from 0 to 80, x and y not being simultaneously 0 - m ranging from 1 to 40 n ranging from 10 to Ranging from 1 to 100, ranging from 7 to 21, ranging from 0 to 4 and preferably from R = H, m = 1 to 10, n = 10 to 100, and from 1 to 30; p = 15; and q = 3. C 8 -C 22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol include cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by Goldschmidt.

Of the silicone nonionic surfactants, Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone, marketed under the name ABIL EM90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, is preferred.

The surfactant or surfactants may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content which may vary from 5 to 90%, preferably from 15 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of said premix. GELIFYING LIPOPHILIC CLAYS According to a third variant of the invention, the pre-mixture consists of one or more lipophilic clays dispersed in the presence of a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably in the presence of ethanol in at least one of the volatile linear alkanes. previously described. The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. These lipophilic clays are dispersed in at least one of the linear volatile alkanes previously described in the presence of an activator which is preferably ethanol. This gives a premix in the form of a gel which can be used to gel the oily phase of the cosmetic product and thus improve its stability.

The lipophilic clay may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content which can vary from 0.2 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight and still more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight. relative to the total weight of said premix. The monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content which may vary from 0.1 to 25%, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight and even more preferably from 2 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said premix. CHARGES According to a fourth variant of the invention, the pre-mix consists of one or more charges dispersed in at least one of the volatile linear alkanes described above. The fillers can be mineral or organic synthetic or natural and all shapes, platelet, spherical or oblong. Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic; Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include polyamide, polyethylene, poly methyl methacrylate powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning), polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) and synthetic or natural micronized waxes.

The charge (s) may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content that can vary from 0.2 to 60%, preferably from 1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said premix. STAINING AGENTS According to a fifth variant of the invention, the premix consists of one or more coloring agents dispersed in at least one of the volatile linear alkanes described above and in the presence of one or more additional dispersants, preferably hydrocarbon dispersants. According to the invention, the term "coloring agent" means pigments and pigments with an optical effect.

As examples of pigments, mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials) and metallic pigments. Examples of inorganic pigments that may be mentioned include: Metal oxide pigments such as iron oxides, titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Examples of organic pigments that may be mentioned include: carbon black, cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran dyes, organic lacquer-type pigments barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (eg D & C or FD & C) and those exempt from FDA certification as cochineal carmine lacquers. As examples of composite pigments, mention may be made of: Iron or titanium oxides coated with silica or alumina, iron or titanium oxides coated with hydrocarbon compounds, silicone compounds, fluorinated or fluorosilicone compounds.

The pigments resulting from the coating of a silica ball with iron or titanium oxides. As examples of metallic pigments, mention may be made of: aluminum powder, copper, gold, silver, platinum and bronze powder.

By way of examples of optical effect pigments, mention may be made of reflective particles comprising a substrate made of mica such as nacres or of another lamellar material such as bismuth oxychloride, goniochromatic coloring agents, photochromic staining, and fluorescent agents.

According to this fifth variant of the invention, the premix also contains an additional dispersant for homogeneously mixing the coloring agents in the volatile alkane (s) described above. As an example of a hydrocarbon dispersant, mention may be made of the 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate sold under the reference DISPERSUN DSP OL-300 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals.

The coloring agent may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content which may vary from 10 to 90%, preferably from 40 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said premix.

The additional dispersant (preferably hydrocarbon surfactant) may be present in the pre-mix according to the invention at a content which may vary from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said premix. PREPARATION OF PRE-MIXING

The premix according to the invention is prepared separately, in parallel with the preparation of the rest of the ingredients constituting the oily phase. It is generally obtained by mixing, at room temperature and with stirring, optionally with a grinding step, the volatile linear alkane (s) with the lipophilic starting materials described above, until a homogeneous solution or dispersion is obtained.

By "homogeneous solution" is meant a medium transparent to the naked eye in which the ingredient is also distributed in the premix.

"Homogeneous dispersion" means a medium more or less opaque to the naked eye in which said ingredient forms a second phase distinct from the solvent and which is distributed homogeneously to the naked eye in the premix.

According to a first embodiment, for the preparation of a premix containing a mineral lipophilic sunscreen such as titanium nano oxide dispersed in one or more volatile linear alkanes, the titanium nanooxide and the dye mixture are milled. volatile linear alkanes until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained.

According to another embodiment, for the preparation of a premix containing a silicone surfactant dispersed or solubilized in one or more volatile linear alkanes, these ingredients are mixed and homogenized until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained. .

According to another embodiment, for the preparation of a pre-mixture containing lipophilic gelling agents activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol (eg modified ethanol activated clay) and dispersed in one or more volatile linear alkanes, one The monoalcohol (ethanol) is mixed with the volatile linear alkanes and the hectorite is added, which is then ground and crushed. According to another embodiment, for the preparation of a premix containing fillers. (Ex: silica) dispersed in one or more volatile linear alkanes, the charge is dispersed in the mixture of volatile linear alkanes using a stirrer.

According to another embodiment, for the preparation of a premix containing inorganic coloring agents (eg iron oxides, titanium dioxide) dispersed in one or more volatile linear alkanes, pigment pastes consisting of 50 to 85% by weight of metal oxides, 10 to 35% by weight of volatile linear alkanes and 2 to 4% by weight of an additional hydrocarbon dispersant compatible with the coating of said metal oxides, by grinding the pigment in the volatile linear alkanes in the presence of the dispersant, for example using a Dynomill type ball mill, such as that containing zirconium oxide beads of 0.6 to 0.8 mm.

The premix is then mixed with stirring and at room temperature with the oily phase of the composition until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained. This homogeneous dispersion is then emulsified with stirring with the aqueous phase to obtain a stable emulsion.

The use of premix may or may not, depending on whether the lipophilic raw material is available or not commercially in the form of a premix, be indicated on the list of ingredients of a final cosmetic product with the INCI name. volatile linear alkanes X (and) lipophilic YX starting material being one of the volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of volatile linear alkanes described above and Y being one of the lipophilic raw materials described above.

PREPARATION OF A COMPOSITION (COSMETIC PRODUCT) CONTAINING SAID PRE-MIXTURE

The premix according to the invention can be used in the preparation of a cosmetic composition in combination with at least one additional cosmetic ingredient.

In general, said premix will be added to the liquid fatty phase of said composition.

The additional cosmetic ingredient may be selected from oily or aqueous solvents, gelling agents, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersing agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, UV protective agents, cosmetic active ingredients, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients, fillers, pulverulent or non-pulverulent dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additional cosmetic ingredients present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the cosmetic properties and the desired performances do not are not affected.

According to a first embodiment, said premix constitutes the core of the composition (cosmetic product) and will in particular represent more than 30% by weight, in particular more than 50% by weight or even more than 80%, especially more than 90%. or even more than 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, said premix constitutes an ingredient of the composition (cosmetic product) comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, and will generally represent less than 50% by weight, especially less than 40% by weight, or even less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. This embodiment will be exemplified below.

Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic product (cosmetic composition) comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, said premix and at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, said premix possibly constituting from 2 to 98% by weight of the weight total of the composition, in particular from 3 to 50% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to keratin materials.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

By way of example, the composition according to the invention may comprise in particular at least one liquid fatty phase comprising at least one additional oil, distinct from the volatile linear alkanes of the premix described above.

Oils The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 5 to 95%, in particular from 10 to 80%, in particular from 15 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 65% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof. The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the oils of plant origin are preferred.

According to one particular embodiment, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil, in particular a volatile silicone oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), 10 mmHg). As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 atoms silicon, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Aqueous Phase The composition may or may not further comprise an aqueous phase generally comprising water and / or water-miscible solvents, such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and polyols such as glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the values are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES Example 1 Fluid FDT prepared from a pre-mix of mineral filter and volatile linear alkanes EXAMPLE 1% by weight Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Al polyglyceryl isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 GI 34 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 16, 20 A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by Elementis A4 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 1.79 Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate aluminum 0.54 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Titanium Nano Oxide sold under the reference UV Titan 3.00 M212 Mixture of n-undecane : n-tridecane in which the n-6.00 undecane is predominant in the mixture * Undecane + Tridecane sold under the reference Cetiol UT 9.00 by the company Cognis Microsphere Silica sold under the reference SB 700 by the 5.50 society Miyoshi Kasei Perfume 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved. Then, at room temperature, the A2 and A3 phases are added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm). When the dispersion is homogeneous, phase A4 is added while maintaining the stirring at room temperature.

This phase A4 was prepared beforehand by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, titanium nano oxide and volatile linear alkane mixture. This phase A5 is then added, as well as the phases A6, A7 and A8, keeping the stirring and the temperature close to ambient. The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing the PEG 20 then the methyl paraben and the magnesium sulphate in a beaker and adding water preheated to 95 ° C. The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by gradually increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added.

The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. EXAMPLE 2% by weight of Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 Al ABIL EM 90 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which n-15.00 undecane is predominant in the mixture * Polyglycerol isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 GI 34 by Evonik - Goldschmidt A2 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu Cyclohexasiloxane 19.05 A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by Elementis Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate aluminum 1.79 A4 Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.54 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Nano oxide titanium ve ndu under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 A5 Silica microsphere sold under the reference SB 700 by the 5.50 company Miyoshi Kasei A6 Fragrance 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 B PEG 20 1.70 Sulfate magnesium 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of phase Al are weighed in the main beaker and homogenized using a magnetic bar. Then, at room temperature, the constituents of phase A2 and phase A3 are added, with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm).

Phase A4 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. This phase A4 is then added while maintaining the stirring at room temperature, as well as the phases A5 and A6. The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes. Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added.

The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. Example 3 Fluid FDT prepared from an ethanol-activated lipophilic modified clay pre-mixture and volatile linear alkanes EXAMPLE 3% by weight Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2 70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Al polyglyceryl isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 GI 34 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu Cyclohexasiloxane 22.03 A2 Undecane + Tridecane sold under the reference Cetiol UT 11.92 by the company Cognis Hectorite modified distearyl dimethyl ammonium sold under the reference Bentone 38 VCG by the company 0.72 A3 Elementis ethanol 0.20 N-undecane mixture : n-tridecane in which n- 3.08 undecane predominates in the mixture * A4 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 1.7920 Iron oxide red coated with stearoyl gl Aluminum utamate 0.54 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Nano titanium oxide sold under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 Microsphere of aluminum Silica sold under the reference SB 700 by the 5.50 company Miyoshi Kasei Perfume 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100 % * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved. The components of phase A2 are then added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm) while keeping the temperature of the beaker close to room temperature. Phase A3 is prepared separately by mixing the ethanol with the volatile linear alkanes and adding the hectorite which is pasted and then crushed three times to the three-cylinder. Phase A4 is prepared separately in the same way by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. Phase A3 is then added to the main beaker and when the dispersion is homogeneous, phase A4 is added, followed by phases A5 and A6, while stirring is maintained at room temperature. The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes. Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added. A5 A6 B C The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. EXAMPLE 4% by weight Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2,70 ABIL EM 90 by the company Evonik - Example 4 Fluid FDT prepared from a premix of feed and volatile linear alkanes Goldschmidt Al polyglyceryl isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 GI 34 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 18.95 A3 Gel bentone sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by Elementis Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 1.79 A4 Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0, 54 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.19 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 7.48 Nano titanium oxide sold under the reference UV Titan M212 0.25 Silicon microsphere sold under the reference SB 700 5 , 50 A5 by Miyoshi Kasei Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which n-undecane is predominant in the mixture * 15.00 A6 Fragrance 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 B PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed in the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved.

Then, at room temperature, the A2 and A3 phases are added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm). When the dispersion is homogeneous, phase A4 is added while maintaining the stirring at room temperature. Phase A4 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. This phase A4 is then added while maintaining agitation. Phase A5 is also prepared separately by dispersing the silica in the mixture of volatile linear alkanes using a Rayneri stirrer. This phase A5 is then added while maintaining stirring.

Phase A6 is finally added at room temperature, while maintaining stirring. The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing the PEG 20 then the methyl paraben and the magnesium sulphate in a beaker and adding water preheated to 95 ° C. The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes. Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added.

The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm. EXAMPLE 5 Fluid FDT prepared from a premix of pigments, surfactants and volatile linear alkanes EXAMPLE 5% by weight Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference 2 70 ABIL EM 90 by the Evonik company - Goldschmidt Al polyglyceryl isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN 0.90 GI 34 by the company Evonik - Goldschmidt Butyl paraben 0.10 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the 3.00 company Shin Etsu A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 24, 88 A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone Gel VS 5 V 4.00 by the company Elementis Mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane in which the n-2,11 undecane is predominant in the mixture * stearate of oligomer d 12-hydroxystearic acid sold as 0.37 under the reference DISPERSUN DSP OL-300 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 1.79 A4 aluminum oxide red iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.54 d Foil Oxide Black coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.19 aluminum Titanium dioxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 7'48 aluminum A5 Undecane + Tridecane sold under the reference Cetiol UT 12.89 by the company Cognis A6 Microsphere Silica sold under the reference SB 700 by 5.50 company Miyoshi Kasei A7 Fragrance 0.30 Demineralized water 25.00 Methyl Paraben 0.20 B PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% * Major mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059. Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and this phase is heated to 75 ° C. until the butyl paraben is dissolved. Then, at room temperature, the constituent of phase A2, then that of phase A3, is added with stirring using a Moritz stirrer (1000 rpm). Phase A4 is prepared separately by mixing: - 8,800 / 0 of a pigment preparation consisting of 850/0 of titanium dioxide, 120/0 of undecane / tridecane mixture and 3 ° / U of dispersant (Oligomer stearate of 12 hydroxystearic acid), 2.750% of a pigment preparation consisting of 650% of yellow iron oxide, 320% of undecane / tridecane mixture and 3% of dispersant (oligomer stearate). of 12 hydroxystearic acid), 0.68% of a pigment preparation consisting of 80% of red iron oxide, 17% of undecane / tridecane mixture and 3% of dispersant (acid oligomer stearate). 12 hydroxystearic acid), 0.25% of a pigment preparation consisting of 75% black iron oxide, 22% undecane / tridecane mixture and 3% dispersant (12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate) . Each of these pigment preparations is made by grinding the pigment in the undecane / tridecane mixture in the presence of the dispersant, using a Dynomill-type ball mill containing zirconium oxide beads of 0.6. at 0.8 mm.

This phase A4 is then added as well as the phases A5, A6 and A7 while maintaining agitation and the temperature close to ambient. The aqueous phase B is also prepared separately, by weighing the PEG 20 then the methyl paraben and the magnesium sulphate in a beaker and adding water preheated to 95 ° C.

The aqueous phase is stirred with a magnetic stirring bar until the three components are dissolved and the phenoxy ethanol is added at 40 ° C. The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase by progressively increasing the stirring speed (Moritz) up to 4000 rpm. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

Finally, phase C (ethanol) is added. The product obtained is stirred with Rayneri (pale) and stirred for 10 minutes at 50 rpm.

The same examples are reproduced by substituting the undecane / tridecane mixture with the n-dodecane sold under the name PARAFOL12_97 by SASOL.

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. A process for the preparation of a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, comprising the addition, to a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, of at least one first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient chosen from: i) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactants, (iii) lipophilic clays activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) fillers, (v) coloring agents mixed with a additional hydrocarbon dispersant in the form of a premix with one or more C9-C14 volatile linear alkanes. 2. Preparation process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the premix consists of an ingredient selected from (i) to (v) or their mixture (s) and volatile linear alkane (s). C9-C14. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane or alkanes are selected from n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. 25 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkanes are in the form of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other in carbon number n d at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2. 5. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mixture of volatile linear alkanes is a mixture n-undecane: n-tridecane (C11 / C13) comprising - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75 % by weight of volatile linear C11 alkane (n-undecane) - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the weight total alkanes in said mixture of volatile linear alkanes. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane (s) are present in a content ranging from 10% to 99.8% by weight, preferably ranging from 45% to 95% by weight. and more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the premix. 7. Pre-mixture that can be used in a process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, consisting of at least one coloring agent mixed with an additional hydrocarbon dispersant and dispersed in one or more volatile linear alkanes. in C9-C14. 8. Pre-mixture may be implemented in a process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, consisting of at least one lipophilic clay activated by a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol and dispersed in one or more C9-C14 volatile linear alkanes 9. Cosmetic composition obtainable by the method according to one of claims 1 to 6 and characterized in that it comprises (A) a premix of at least a first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient chosen from: ) lipophilic sunscreens, (ii) silicone surfactants, (iii) lipophilic clays activated with a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, (iv) fillers, (v) coloring agents mixed with a dispersant additional hydrocarbon, with one or more volatile linear alkanes C9-C14, and (B) at least one additional cosmetic ingredient, said premix representing at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 35 10. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) at least one first lipophilic cosmetic ingredient selected from lipophilic sunscreens and silicone surfactants, and (ii) at least one or more volatile linear C9-C14 alkanes. 5