FR2873027A1 - Nonfluid composition useful in mascara; eyeliner; foundation comprises liquid fatty phase containing semicrystalline polymer with crystallizable side chain, nonpigmentary mineral filler and nonpigmentary organic filter - Google Patents

Abstract

A nonfluid cosmetic composition comprises at least one liquid fatty phase containing: (a) semicrystalline polymer with crystallizable side chain; (b) a nonpigmentary mineral filler; and (c) a nonpigmentary organic filter. Independent claims are also included for: (1) a cosmetic process for caring for, making up or treating the skin or the lips of the human face, comprising applying to the lips of the face or skin with the claimed cosmetic composition; and (2) the cosmetic use of at least one non-pigmentary mineral filler and of at least one non-pigmentary organic filler in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured with at least a sufficient amount of at least one semicrystalline polymer with crystalline side chain(s) and having improved stability with regard to exudation.

Description

The present invention relates to a care composition and / or

  treatment and / or makeup of the skin, including the scalp, and / or lips, the face of human beings, non-fluid, comprising at least one structured liquid fatty phase.

  Many cosmetic or dermatological products are formulated with the aid of a structured or rigidified liquid fatty phase. As an illustration of these products, mention may be made in particular of products in the form of products cast in a stick or cup, such as reds or lip balms, cast foundations, concealer products, blushes. eyelids or cheeks, in the form of paste or cream, eyeliners, body make-up products (semi-permanent tattoo for example), deodorants, sunscreen or skin-coloring compositions. In fact, this structuring of the liquid fatty phase is advantageous in several ways. It makes it possible to limit, on the one hand, its exudation of solid compositions, and on the other hand its migration, after deposition on the skin and more particularly the lips, over time in wrinkles and fine lines.

  Initially, this structuring was mainly obtained using solid particles, fillers and / or waxes, introduced into the liquid fatty phase. However, the use of these particles or fillers tends to matify the composition, and thus to affect the brilliant character particularly appreciated by the users.

  To overcome this drawback, it has been proposed to structure the liquid fatty phases of the cosmetic compositions using semi-crystalline polymers (EP 1 262 163, EP 1 262 164, EP 1 114 636, WO 02/47626).

  However, the cosmetic compositions thus prepared do not also give complete satisfaction. They may in particular have a high sensitivity to temperature variations, and especially in the so-called high temperature range, that is to say greater than about 30 ° C. and then be subject to a phenomenon of exudation of the oily phase with the surface of the compositions. Similarly, some sticks may, after being subjected to significant temperature variations, in particular of the order of 15 to 20 C, become slightly slippery, dry and then provide a dull film.

  Consequently, there remains to date a need for cosmetic compositions which have a satisfactory stability, especially with regard to significant variations in temperature, and moreover, give satisfaction in terms of cosmetic quality such as for example the brightness and the no migration.

  The subject of the invention is precisely a skincare and / or make-up and / or treatment composition for keratin materials such as the skin and / or the lips of the face, making it possible to satisfy all the requirements mentioned above.

  More specifically, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a non-fluid cosmetic composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase, containing at least an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer with side chain (s). ) crystallizable (s), at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmented organic filler.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-fluid" is intended to mean any cosmetic composition devoid of the flowability under the action of its own weight.

  More particularly, this type of cosmetic composition is still referred to as a cast composition as opposed to so-called fluid compositions. These compositions are characterized by a pasty appearance at room temperature (20-25 C).

  Thus, a cosmetic composition may be in accordance with the invention from the moment it has a melting point greater than 25 ° C., in particular ranging from 25 to 60 ° C. and in particular ranging from 30 to 45 ° C. and / or a hardness ranging from from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.005 to 0.4 MPa.

  The composition of the invention may be in the form of paste, solid or cream. It may be a simple oil-in-water or water-in-oil type emulsion or a multiple emulsion, a gel, solid or flexible. Preferably, it is in anhydrous form, and more particularly in the form of anhydrous gel, especially cast in stick or cup.

  In particular, the present invention aims to cover a lipstick comprising at least one liquid fatty phase containing at least an effective amount of at least one semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), with minus a non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmented organic filler.

  The present invention also relates, in another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for the care, make-up or treatment of the skin or the lips of the face of human beings, including the application on the skin or the lips, of the faces of human beings. of a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

  The present invention also aims to protect, in another of its aspects, the use of at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmentary organic filler, in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), and having an improved stability with regard to the exudation.

  Surprisingly, the inventors have thus found that the use of two non-pigmentary fillers of defined nature, namely one organic and the other mineral, made it possible to obtain non-fluid cosmetic compositions, especially in the form of a stick. whose application on the skin and in particular the lips led to a glossy film, comfortable, non sticky, good coverage and non-migrant, while showing good resistance to significant temperature variations, high temperatures, especially greater than about C, as illustrated in the examples.

  In particular, the combination of semicrystalline polymers with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) with at least one non-pigmentary organic filler and at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler, allows to give the composition a good stability in time and temperature. Thus, it is possible to obtain a composition remaining macroscopically homogeneous, without exudation of the liquid fatty phase, even in a humid atmosphere, for at least 2 months at approximately 25 ° C. or above, in particular at approximately 30 ° C., in particular at approximately 45 ° C. , and atmospheric pressure.

  Non-pigmentary inorganic and organic fillers As mentioned above, the incorporation of at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmented organic filler makes it possible to improve the resistance with respect to significant variations in temperature or viscosity. with respect to a given temperature, especially greater than 30 C. This resistance is reflected in particular by an improved stability with regard to the exudation.

  The stability with respect to the exudation (or syneresis) of the composition according to the invention is evaluated by placing the composition in an oven for eight weeks at 25 ° C. In this test, the physical appearance of the sample is controlled at the moment of its positioning in the room. The sample is then monitored at 24 hours, three days, one week, two weeks, four weeks, and eight weeks. The stability can further be evaluated by repeating the cycle of eight weeks in an oven at 4 C, 37 C, 45 C, 50 C, and under freezing / thawing conditions.

  At the end of the stability test considered, the sample is checked in terms of its physical appearance, of its shape, (it is examined whether it bends, if the composition is in the form of a stick or a stick lipstick, or wrinkles), phase separation, fusion, or syneresis (exudation).

  For the purposes of the present invention, the terms syneresis or exudation are used interchangeably and correspond to the appearance of droplets on the surface of the composition which are visible to the naked eye.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" means solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition, even at temperatures up to the melting point of all the fats of the composition. the composition.

  Generally, the fillers used according to the invention are colorless or white, ie non-pigmentary, that is to say they are not used to impart a particular color or hue to the composition according to the invention, even if their use can inherently lead to such a result.

  As such, they are, in this respect, distinct from nacres, organic pigment materials such as, for example, carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. and inorganic pigment materials such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate chromium and ferric blue, which are used to provide a hue and color effect to the compositions incorporating them.

  Such compounds are not covered, within the meaning of the invention, by the definition of organic or inorganic non-pigmentary fillers.

  The non-pigmentary fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber, or any other form intermediate between these defined forms.

  The shape of the particles of the same charge can be homogeneous, that is to say that the particles are predominantly present in a single type of form, or heterogeneous, that is to say that the particles are present under a set of various forms. The shape of the particles of different charges can be homogeneous or heterogeneous.

  The shape of the particles of the charges is chosen by those skilled in the art so as to ensure their good dispersion in the composition.

  The size of the particles, namely their particle size, is chosen so as to ensure good dispersion of the fillers in the composition according to the invention. The particle size of the particles can be distributed in the range from 5 m to 10 nm, in particular from 10 m to 10 nm.

  The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

  The amounts of the inorganic and non-pigmentary organic fillers are adjusted taking into account that of the semicrystalline crystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), so as to contribute to the desired hardness and to ensure the stability of the compositions depending on the specific applications envisaged.

  This amount may in particular vary from 0.1 to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 2 to 7%.

  More particularly, the weight ratio of fillers / polymers is less than 1, or even less than or equal to 0.9, and in particular less than or equal to 0.6.

  In general, it is greater than 0.015, less than 1 and more particularly less than or equal to 0.6.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmentary organic filler present in a weight ratio in the range of 1: 1 to 10: 1, in particular of 2: 1 to 6: 1, and more particularly from 3: 1 to 5: 1.

  Mineral fillers For the purposes of the present invention, the terms mineral and inorganic are used interchangeably.

  Among the non-pigmentary inorganic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, bentonite, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler selected from the group comprising kaolin, silica, bentone and mixtures thereof.

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-pigmentary inorganic filler present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 15%, in particular from 1% to 10%, more particularly from 2% to 6% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

  Organic fillers Among the organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroylysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), polytrap (Dow Corning), acrylate copolymers, PMMA, 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls), for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof. For the purpose of the present invention, the organic fillers are distinct from the pigments.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-pigmentary organic filler selected from the group comprising nylon, polytrap or acrylate copolymers, such as Polytrap 603 marketed by Lambert Rivière (or ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer). lauryl methacrylate), PMMA, 12-hydroxy-stearic acid oligomer stearate (Octacare DSI OL300 from AVECIA) and mixtures thereof.

  According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-pigmentary organic filler present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 5%, in particular from 0.1 to 3%, and more particularly from 0.5 to 2%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As particular combinations of non-pigmentary organic and inorganic fillers that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the mixture of kaolin, of 12-hydroxy-stearic acid oligomer stearate, such as that sold under the name Octocare DSP OL300 from AVECIA and an acrylate copolymer (such as ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer) in a ratio of 4: 2: 1, in particular in a ratio of 4: 5: 4: 1 , and in particular in a ratio of 4: 4: 1, and more particularly in a ratio of 4.5: 2: 1.

  One or more dispersing agents may be optionally used to protect the dispersed fillers or particles against agglomeration or flocculation. They can be added independently of solid charges or particles or as a colloidal dispersion of particles.

  The dispersant concentration is chosen so as to obtain a satisfactory dispersion of the solid particles (without flocculation) and in particular a colloidal dispersion of stable particles. It is to be adapted according to the total amount of charges to be introduced into the composition. It may be from 0.3 to 5 mg / m 2, in particular from 0.5 to 4 mg / m 2, of the particle surface.

  This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, the esters of polyhydroxystearic acid such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, esters of polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid with polyols such as glycerol, diglycerol, such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymuls PGPH by HENKEL (or poly (12 - hydroxystearate) diglycerol), or poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema and mixtures thereof.

  As another dispersant that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of the quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as the Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia, the poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the Dow company. Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C. Semicrystalline polymers with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) For the purposes of the invention, "polymers" means compounds comprising at least 2 repeating units preferably at least 3 repeating units and more especially at least 10 repeating units.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising at least one crystallizable pendant chain having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition).

  By "crystallizable chain" is meant a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, and which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, pendant or lateral to the polymer backbone. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more semi-crystalline polymers with side chain (s). ) crystallizable (s) and in particular at least one semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) low melting point (also called first polymer), associated with at least one semicrystalline polymer to side chain (s) crystallizable (s) high melting point (also called second polymer).

  In particular, these polymers have a melting temperature that is higher than the temperature of the keratin support intended to receive the composition, and more particularly keratin materials, such as the lips or the skin, including the scalp.

  By "organic compound" or "organic structure" or organic chain is meant compounds or chains containing carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and optionally heteroatoms such as S, O, N, P alone or in combination.

  In the following description, the semicrystalline polymer (s) or semicrystalline side chain (s) crystallizable (s) having a melting temperature Pf2 of less than 50 C will be called "semi-crystalline polymers with side chain (s) (S) crystallizable low melting point (s) and the crystallizable side-chain (s) crystalline polymer (s) or polymer (s) having a melting point Pfl greater than or equal to 50 ° C. will be referred to as "Semicrystalline polymers with high melting crystallizable side chain (s)".

  This temperature or melting point (Pf) can be measured by any known method and in particular with a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.).

  According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) of low melting point having a melting temperature of less than 50 C, and in particular in a range from 30 ° C. to less than 50 ° C.

  According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) of high melting point having a melting temperature at least equal to or greater at 50 ° C., in particular in the range 55 ° C. to 160 ° C., and more particularly in the range 60 ° C. to 130 ° C.

  According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least one semicrystalline polymer having a lateral crystallizable chain (s) of low melting point and at least one semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of high melting point.

  The structuring or gelling of the liquid fatty phase according to the invention is due to crystallization of the semicrystalline polymer (s) with lateral chain (s) crystallizable in the liquid fatty phase, associated or not with one or more compounds crystalline and does not report any physical interaction of the dipole or hydrogen type, between polymeric chains.

  The semicrystalline polymers to which the invention applies include, in particular, a polymeric backbone and at least one crystallizable side organic chain.

  Advantageously, the crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymer (s) to which the invention applies have a number average molecular weight greater than 2000.

  The semicrystalline polymers with a high melting point crystallizable side chain (s) usable in the invention are in particular semi-crystalline polymers with an organic structure, solid at ambient temperature and having a melting temperature. greater than or equal to 50 C, comprising a polymeric organic backbone and at least one crystallizable side organic chain and having a number average molecular weight greater than 2,000.

  It is possible to use as solid-melting polymers solid polymers at room temperature and having a melting point of greater than 50 ° C. for random polymers having a controlled crystallization, as described in document EP-AO 951. 897 and more especially the commercial products Engage 8 401 and Engage 8 402 from Dupont de Nemours, respectively with a melting point of 51 ° C. and 64 ° C., which are random ethylene / 1-octene bipolymers.

  Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer (s) (high or low melting point) of the composition of the invention comprise a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500. 000, for example from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and more preferably from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have a number-average molecular mass greater than 5,600, for example from 5,700 to 99,000. .

  The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention acting as a structuring agent are solids that are not deformable at ambient temperature (around 20-25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). They are capable of structuring, alone or as a mixture, the composition without the addition of a particular surfactant, filler or wax.

  According to the invention, the low melting semi-crystalline polymers and / or the high melting compounds are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase at at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting temperature. Apart from the crystallizable chains, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. In particular, the polymeric backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the liquid fatty phase.

  According to the invention, the high melting point semi-crystalline compound (s) are advantageously polymers having a temperature or melting point (Pfl) such that 50 ° C., 150 ° C., especially 55 ° C., and more particularly 60 ° C. C <Pfl <130 ° C. and the low melting point polymers advantageously have a melting temperature Pf 2 such that C 2 P 2 <50 ° C, and in particular C 2 C 2 45 C. This melting temperature is a temperature of change of state of the first order.

  In general, the polymers having a low melting point have a melting temperature Pf2 at least equal to the temperature of the keratinous support to receive the composition according to the invention.

  In particular, the crystallizable chain or chains of semicrystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. The polymers with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), according to the invention, are advantageously in random or statistical form.

  In particular, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. In general, the crystallizable units (chains) of the semicrystalline polymers according to the invention come from monomer (s) crystallizable chain (s), used (s) for the manufacture of semi-crystalline polymers.

  According to the invention, the low-melting semi-crystalline polymer and the high-melting semi-crystalline polymer are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain (s) by repetition pattern.

  The semicrystalline polymers that can be used in the invention are in particular: homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain (s) and the homopolymers or copolymers bearing in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,156,911, homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain (s), in particular with a group (s) ) fluorinated (s), as described in the document WO-A-01/19333, and - their mixtures.

  These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising from 50 to 100% by weight of units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain.

  These homo- or co-polymers are of any kind as long as they have the conditions indicated below with in particular the characteristic of being soluble or dispersible in the liquid fatty phase, by heating above their melting point. Pf. They can result from: - the radical polymerization of one or more monomers with double bond (s) reactive (s) or ethylenic vis-à-vis a polymerization, namely a vinyl group, ( meth) acrylic or allylic, - polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co-reactive groups (carboxylic or sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as for example polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas, polyamides.

  In general, these polymers are chosen in particular from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer (s) which may be represented by the formula X:

VS

  wherein: M represents an atom of the polymer backbone, S represents a spacer, and C represents a crystallizable group. Crystallizable -S-C chains can be aliphatic or

  aromatic, possibly fluorinated or perfluorinated. S represents in particular a linear or branched or cyclic (CH 2) n or (CH 2 CH 2 O) or (CH 2 O) group, where n is an integer ranging from 0 to 22. Preferably S is a linear group. Preferably, S and C are different.

  When the crystallizable -S-C chains are hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chains, they contain alkyl hydrocarbon chains containing at least 11 carbon atoms and at most 40 carbon atoms and better still at most 24 carbon atoms. These include aliphatic chains or alkyl chains having at least 12 carbon atoms and preferably these are C14 to C24 alkyl chains. When it is fluorinated or perfluorinated alkyl chains, they comprise at least 6 fluorinated carbon atoms and in particular at least 11 carbon atoms of which at least 6 carbon atoms are fluorinated.

  As examples of semi-crystalline polymers or copolymers with crystallizable chain (s), mention may be made of those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: alkyl (meth) acrylates saturated with the C14 alkyl group; C24, perfluoroalkyl (meth) acrylates with a C11-C15 perfluoroalkyl group, N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides with C14-C24 alkyl group with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters with alkyl chains or perfluoro ( alkyl) with C14-C24-alkyl (with at least 6 fluorine atoms for a perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers with alkyl chains or perfluoro (alkyl) with C14-C24 alkyl group and at least 6 carbon atoms. fluorine for a perfluoroalkyl chain, C14-C24 alpha-olefins such as octadecene, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group having from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

  When the polymers result from a polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are carried by a monomer which may be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

  When the polymers which are the subject of the invention are copolymers, they contain, in addition, from 0 to 50% of Y or Z groups resulting from the copolymerization of: a) Y which is a polar or non-polar monomer or a mixture of the two when Y is a polar monomer, it is either a monomer carrying polyoxyalkylenated groups (in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated), a hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylate such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, (meth) acrylamide, an N-alkyl (meth) acrylamide, an N, N-dialkyl (meth) acrylamide such as, for example, N, N-diisopropylacrylamide or N-vinylpyrrolidone (NVP), N-vinyl caprolactam, a monomer bearing at least one carboxylic acid group such as (meth) acrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric or bearing a carboxylic acid anhydride group such as maleic anhydride, and mixtures thereof, - when Y is a non-polar monomer it can be a branched linear alkyl (meth) acrylate ester or cyclic vinyl ester, alkyl vinyl ether, alpha-olefin, styrene or C 1 -C 10 alkyl-substituted styrene, such as α-methylstyrene, a vinyl-unsaturated polyorganosiloxane macromonomer.

  By "alkyl" is meant within the meaning of the invention a saturated group including C8 to C24, except express mention, and in particular C14 to C24.

  (3) Z which is a polar monomer or a mixture of polar monomers. In this case, Z has the same definition as the "polar Y" defined above.

  Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chain (s) are homopolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylate or of alkyl (meth) acrylamide with an alkyl group as defined above, and in particular at C14 to C24, copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer preferably of a different nature from (meth) acrylic acid such as N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and mixtures thereof.

  According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C24 alkyl (meth) acrylates, and (meth) ) Cu-Cu perfluoroalkyl acrylates, C14-C24 N alkyl (meth) acrylamides with or without fluorine atom, C14-C24 alkyl chain or perfluoroalkyl vinyl esters, C14 alkyl chain or perfluoroalkyl vinyl ethers at C24, C14-C24 alpha-olefins, para-alkyl styrenes with an alkyl group having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, with at least one optionally fluorinated C1 to C10 monocarboxylic acid ester or amide, which may be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 1 is H or CH 3, R is an optionally fluorinated C 1 to C 10 alkyl group and X is O, NH or NR 2, where R 2 is an alkyl group; C1 in Clo possibly fluorinated.

  According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth) acrylates.

  As a particular example of a structuring semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer TM products from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer TM Polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97 ). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) and have the above formula X.

  The semi-crystalline polymers with a low melting point are in particular those described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7 and 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911 with a -COOH group, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and C5-C16 alkyl (meth) acrylate of Pf2 ranging from 20 ° C to 35 ° C and more particularly from the copolymerization of: acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio, acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a ratio 1/19, - acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethylacrylate in a ratio 2, 5 / 76.5 / 20, - acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and methylacrylate in a 5/85/10 ratio, of acrylic acid, polyoctadecylmethacrylate in a ratio 2.5 / 97.5.

  It is also possible to use the National Starch Structure O polymer such as that described in US Pat. No. 5,736,125 (Pf2) of 44 C, as well as the semi-crystalline pendent-chain (s) crystallizable polymers ( s) having fluorinated groups as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of WO 01/19333.

  It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers of low melting point obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or of NVP as described in document US Pat. No. 5,519,063 and more particularly those described in US Pat. Examples 1 and 2 of Application EP 1 262 163, with a melting point of 40 ° C. and 38 ° C., respectively.

  The semi-crystalline polymers with a high melting point are in particular the Intelimer described in the "Intelimers Polymers" document, Landec IP22 (Rev. 4.97) with a melting point of 56 ° C., which is a viscous product at room temperature, which is impermeable. , non-sticky.

  In particular, among the semi-crystalline polymers of low melting point suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made of stearyl polyacrylate such as the product sold under the name Intelimer IPA 13-1, from the company LANDEC .

  In particular, among the semi-crystalline polymers with a high melting point suitable for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of behenyl polyacrylate.

  The structuring of the fatty phase may be advantageously modulated according to the nature of the polymers and their respective concentrations and may be such that a rigid structure is obtained in the form of a stick or a stick.

  In particular, the amount of polymer (s) is adjusted so as to obtain the expected hardness of the composition in question and according to the particular application envisaged.

  The hardness of the compositions according to the present invention, especially in the form of a lipstick stick or stick, can be, for example, from 30 g to 300 g, in particular from 30 g to 250 g, and more particularly from 30 g to 300 g. gf at 200 gf.

  The hardness can be measured using the butter cutter method, which consists of cutting 12.7 mm diameter sticks from the composition and measuring its hardness at 20 C using a DFGHS2 dynamometer from INDELCOCHATILLON. CO. moving at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness value measured by this method is expressed as the shear force (expressed in gram-force) required to cut a stick under these conditions.

  It is possible, however, to use a quantity of semicrystalline polymer such that the composition is in the form of a flexible paste that can be applied to the finger or with the aid of an applicator on keratin materials.

  In particular, the composition according to the invention can be in cast form.

  In practice, the total amount of semicrystalline polymer represents from 0.1 to 80% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.5 to 40% and more preferably from 3 to 30%.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a semicrystalline polymer with a high melting point crystallizable side chain (s) and a semicrystalline polymer with a lateral crystallizable chain (s). (s) low melting point in a weight ratio in the range of 10/90 to 90/10 and especially 40/60 to 60/40.

  Advantageously, the weight ratio of semicrystalline polymers with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) with respect to the liquid fatty phase is from 0.20 to 0.60 and better still from 0.25 to 0, 50, to obtain a hard stick which disintegrates in contact with the skin or lips and in particular of hardness ranging from 100 to 350 gf.

  Liquid fatty phase By "liquid fatty phase", in the sense of the application, is meant a liquid fatty phase at room temperature (20-25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), composed of one or more liquid fatty substances. at room temperature, also called oils, compatible with each other. This fatty phase is macroscopically homogeneous and constitutes the continuous phase of the composition.

  The liquid fatty phase structured by the semicrystalline polymer (s) and in which the non-pigmentary organic and inorganic fillers are dispersed may comprise one or more oils that are cosmetically and dermatologically acceptable and, generally, physiologically acceptable, chosen in particular from the oils of origin. mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbonated, hydrogenated, fluorinated and / or silicone, alone or mixed to the extent that they form a stable homogeneous mixture and where they are compatible with the intended use. The oil or oils making up the fatty phase may also be selected on the basis of their polar or apolar properties.

  For the purposes of the invention, hydrocarbon oils are understood to mean oils containing predominantly carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and in particular alkyl or alkenyl chains such as alkanes or alkenes, but also alkyl or alkenyl chain oils comprising or ether, ester, hydroxyl or carboxylic acid groups. It is possible to add polar oils to polar oils, the apolar oils serving in particular as co-solvents for polar oils.

  There may be mentioned: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene, squalane, mink or turtle oil, their mixtures; linear or branched hydrocarbons or fluorocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, liquids such as paraffin oils and their derivatives or petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (such as Parleam, hydrogenated isoparaffin sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats), isododecane, polydecenes or 'ISOPARs', isoparaffins; silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), volatile or nonvolatile; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, which are liquid at ambient temperature; phenyl PDMSs such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenylmethyl dimethyltrisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; PDMS substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, in particular polyoxyethylenes or copoly (oxyethylene-oxypropylene) s such as dimethicone copolyols, silicones bearing both hydrophobic hydrocarbon groups (for example alkyl groups containing C2-C30) and polyoxyethylenated or copoly (oxyethylenated / oxypropylenated) sequences or grafts such as alkyl dimethiconecopolyols; fluorinated or perfluorinated silicones such as perfluoroalkylated polydimethyl siloxanes and perfluoroalkylated polymethylphenylsiloxanes; fluorinated oils and in particular perfluorinated oils, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of C8 to C24 fatty acids, and glycerol, the acids of which may have various chain lengths, the last of which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as soya, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grape seed, sesame, shea, maize, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or sprouted cereals, wheat germ, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, avocado, hazelnut, blackcurrant pips, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; esters and fatty ethers, such as esters and ethers derived from long-chain (ie having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms) acids or alcohols, in particular esters of formula RCOOR ', in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 'represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin (octanoate) oil. cetostearyl), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, palmitates, adipates and benzoates, especially diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, laurate hexyl, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethyl hexyl, diisostearyl malate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearate glycerin or diglycerin, tri-isoketyl citrate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; C8 to C26 fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; C 8 to C 26 fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures.

  According to a particular embodiment, the liquid fatty phase that is suitable for carrying out the compositions in accordance with the invention is advantageously chosen from hydrogenated polyisobutene, tri-isoketyl citrate, isononyl isononanoate and octyldodecanol. their mixtures.

  The liquid fatty phase is, in practice, 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 20 to 80%. Advantageously, it represents at least 60% of the total weight of the composition.

  Volatile oil According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one volatile oil.

  By "volatile oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

  The volatile cosmetic oil or oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, have in particular a vapor pressure, measured at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10-3 to 300 mmHg (0.266 Pa to 40,000 Pa), preferably from 0 to 300 mmHg. , 02 mm to 300 mm Hg (2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa) and better still from 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12000 Pa).

  According to the invention, these volatile oils facilitate, in particular, the application of the composition to the skin, the lips. These volatile oils are favorable for obtaining a film with properties without total transfer. After evaporation of these oils, a non-sticky flexible film-forming deposit is obtained on the skin and the mucous membranes, respectively following the movements of the skin and the lips on which the composition is applied. These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of a silicone chain or a mixture of these oils.

  In particular, the volatile oils are cosmetic oils chosen from oils having no flash point, oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C to C, and mixtures thereof, in order to facilitate their use. In addition, they advantageously have a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 5 220 C and better still less than 210 C, in particular ranging from 110 to 210 C.

  As the volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups. having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  As another volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) and isododecane. isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or permetyls, branched C8 to C16 esters such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate and mixtures thereof.

  Preferably, isododecane (permetyls 99 A), isoparaffins C8-C16 as Isopar L, E, G or H, their mixtures, optionally associated with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane.

  Fluorinated volatile oils can also be used. These volatile oils represent in particular from 5 to 97.5% of the total weight of the composition, and better still from 10 to 75%, in particular from 30 to 75% of the total weight of the composition. In general, the amount of volatile solvent is used in an amount sufficient to provide non-transfer properties. This amount will be adapted by those skilled in the art as a function of the intensity of the desired non-transfer properties.

  The volatile oil represents in particular 20 to 50% by weight of the composition, preferably 30 to 40%, in particular 35% approximately.

  In particular, the volatile oil represents 40 to 60% of the liquid fatty phase, in particular 45 to 55%.

  The weight ratio of volatile oil relative to the semicrystalline polymer is advantageously between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1.5 to 2.

  Solid fatty phase The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the liquid fatty phase in which the polymer (s) are stabilized, a solid fatty phase which may be chosen from waxes, gums and / or pasty fatty substances. , of plant, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or even silicone, and mixtures thereof.

  Paste fat body A pasty fat substance is a viscous product containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. For the purposes of the invention, "pasty fat" means fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., in particular from 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), in particular from 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. The skilled person can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the viscosity of the pasty compound tested.

  The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured by the "Differential Scanning Calorimetry" method with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 C / min.

  According to the invention, one or more pasty fatty substances are used. In particular, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds (containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), possibly of polymeric type; they may also be chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone and / or fluorinated. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds are preferably used in major proportion.

  Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylenated lanolines or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C. and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. $) Such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. As vegetable triglycerides, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Rheox's "THIXINR", may be used.

  Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20 ° C., such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold. by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in a proportion of 0.5 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a proportion of 2-45% by weight and more particularly in a proportion of 5-30% by weight. % by weight, in the composition.

  Waxes It is also possible to use in the composition of the invention at least one wax or a mixture of wax such as the one (s) used until today in cosmetics.

  A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at ambient temperature (20-25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a temperature of melting higher than 40 C, in particular greater than 45 C, and better than 50 C, up to 200 C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. The size of the crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse the light, conferring on the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

  This recrystallization in the mixture may be responsible for reducing the brightness of said mixture. Also, advantageously, the composition contains little or no conventional waxes and especially less than 20% by weight of conventional wax and better still less than 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The conventional waxes, in the sense of the demand, are those generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; they are notably of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber or sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline point waxes melting point> 55 ° C, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, but also of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization of ethylene and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis with a melting point> 55 ° C., hydrogenated oils, fatty acid esters and glycerides at 55 ° C., silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or poly esters (di) methylsiloxane solid at 55 C.

  The waxes may be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles such that they can be prepared by known methods, such as those of "Microemulsions Theory and Practice, LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977, p 21 32) ". As liquid wax at room temperature, mention may be made of Jojoba oil.

  Aqueous Phase The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. , isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase may, in addition, contain C2 ethers and hydrophilic C2 to C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase can be essentially water.

  The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 90% (especially 0.1 to 90%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 0 to% by weight (especially 0.1 to 70% by weight) and more particularly from 0 to 60% by weight (in particular 0.1 to 60% by weight).

  The composition may have, for example, a continuous fat phase which may contain less than 10% by weight of water, especially less than 5% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to its weight. total weight.

  According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in anhydrous form. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, in particular less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Additives The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field in question, chosen from among medium-soluble dyestuffs, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and surfactants. , and their mixtures.

  These additives may be present in the composition according to the amounts generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological field and in particular in a proportion of from 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 20%.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention, namely brightness, non-stickiness, coverage and non-migration in particular, are not substantially not, impaired by the addition envisaged.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dyestuff.

  According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains at least one dyestuff chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and their mixtures.

  Advantageously, the composition contains a dyestuff which may be chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and pearlescent agents normally used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 40% and more particularly from 5 to 25%, and in particular of 0.01% by weight. at 20%, and in particular from 0.1 to 10% if it is present.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a dyestuff present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% of the total weight of the composition.

  Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, 13-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, yellow quinoline. They may represent from 0 to 20% (0.001 to 20%) of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6% (if present). The water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue, and may represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pigments may represent from 0 to 50% (0.01 to 50%), preferably from 0.5 to 40% and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the composition (if present).

  The pearlescent pigments (or nacres) may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica, in particular covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, and micatitane with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride or interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments. They may represent from 0 to 20% (0.05 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15% (if present).

  According to one embodiment of the invention, the pigments and nacres are introduced into the composition in the form of a pigment paste.

  The pigments may or may not be superficially coated, in particular surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the pigment in the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may also contain cosmetic, dermatological or hygienic active ingredients.

  Among the cosmetic, dermatological or hygienic active agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of cosmetic oils, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sunscreens, antioxidants, antiacneas, anti-inflammatory agents and anti-inflammatory agents. -Inflammatory, bronzing agents (in the absence of UV), depigmenting agents, matting agents and mixtures thereof. Among the moisturizers, there may be mentioned glycerol and glycerol polymethacrylate, sodium hyaluronate and polyol esters or sugars. These active agents are used in a quantity customary for those skilled in the art, and especially at concentrations of 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be manufactured by known methods generally used in the field of cosmetics or dermatology. In particular, can be manufactured according to a process which comprises heating the mixture of the liquid fatty phase and the semi-crystalline polymer at least to its melting temperature, the addition of inorganic and non-pigmentary organic fillers, and, where appropriate , the optional amphiphilic compound (s), colorants which are soluble in the medium, pigment pastes, and additives, and then mixing the mixture until a solution is obtained. The homogeneous mixture obtained can then be poured into a suitable mold such as a lipstick mold or directly into the packaging articles (housing or cup in particular).

  During the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, the organic and inorganic non-pigmentary fillers can be introduced either directly in the form of a mixture, or one after the other, or in the form of a colloidal dispersion which can contain an inorganic or non-pigmentary organic filler or a mixture of inorganic and / or non-pigmentary organic fillers.

  Advantageously, these non-pigmentary organic and inorganic particles or fillers are introduced into the composition in the form of a colloidal dispersion, called a "particulate paste", that is to say a concentrated colloidal dispersion of fillers or solid particles, coated or uncoated. in a continuous medium, surface-stabilized with a dispersing agent or optionally without a dispersing agent.

  According to a particular embodiment, the non-fluid cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty phase and contains, as semi-crystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), a mixture of stearyl polyacrylate and behenyl polyacrylate, as a non-pigmentary inorganic filler, kaolin, and as a non-pigmentary organic filler a mixture of 12-hydroxystearic acid oligomer stearate, and di-methacrylate copolymer, ethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate.

  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a dermatological composition or skin and / or lip care or in the form of a sunscreen composition, facial or body care, hygiene body, especially in the form of deodorant. More specifically, it may be lip makeup products but also care products and / or skin treatment, including scalp, and lips, such as daily care creams, lip balms , lipsticks, lip glosses, lip pencils and sunscreens of the skin of the face or lips, to make-up products of the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as funds dyes including cast in stick or cup, concealer, blushers, skin coloring products and ephemeral tattoo products, body care products such as deodorants including stick, and eye makeup products such as eyeliners especially in the form of pencil and mascaras, especially in the form of bread or eyeshadows.

  Advantageously, the composition of the invention is in the form of a makeup product for keratin materials and more particularly a lipstick. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Quantities are given as a percentage by mass.

  Examples of compositions Example I: Lipstick formula Four compositions of lipstick type are prepared. The compositions corresponding to formulas 2 or 4 are in accordance with the present invention.

  The compositions made on the basis of formulas 1 or 3 correspond to the formulations of the prior art and have been established for comparison.

  % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Components Formula 1 Formula 3 Comparative Formula 2 Comparative 4 Stearyl polyacrylate 11 11 11 11 (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from Landec) Behenyl polyacrylate 11 11 11 11 Sorting citrate -isocetyl 10.22 10.22 10.22 10.22 Octyldodecanol 15.32 15.32 15.32 15.32 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene Qs 100 100 Qs 100 100 Qs 100 (Parleam) Acid Oligomer Stearate 122 2 2 2 hydroxy-stearic acid (Octacare DSP OL300 from AVECIA) 1-1 dimethacrylate copolymer of ethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate (Lambert River Polytrap 603) Kaolin - 4 4.46 4.46 Pigments 8.6 8.6 8, 6 8.6 Preparation of Behenyl Polyacrylate 120 g of hydrogenated polyisobutene are introduced into a 1 liter reactor equipped with a central stirrer with anchor, a condenser and a thermometer. room temperature at 80 C in 45 min. At 80 ° C., the following mixture C1 is introduced over 2 hours: 40 g of cyclohexane + 4 g of Trigonox 141 [2,5 bis (2-ethyl hexanoyl peroxy) -2,5-dimethyl hexane].

  Then, 30 min after the start of the casting of the mixture C1, is introduced in 1:30 the C2 mixture consisting of: - 200 g of behenyl acrylate + 400 g of cyclohexane.

  At the end of the two flows, the mixture is maintained for 3 hours at 80 ° C., and then all of the cyclohexane present in the reaction medium is distilled at atmospheric pressure. The polymer containing 60% by weight of active material in Parleam is then obtained. Its weight average molecular weight is 17,000 to 27,000 and its Pf is 58 C.

  Preparation The semi-crystalline polymers with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) are dissolved in a portion of the oil at 100 [deg.] C., then the non-pigmentary organic and inorganic fillers are added with part of the oily phase. The whole is mixed using a magnetic bar for about 40 minutes, then poured into lipstick molds. The lipsticks obtained with a comparative formulation (formula 1 or 3) have a very slight exudation after exposure at room temperature (20-25 C) for 24 hours. The lipstick sticks obtained with a formulation according to the invention (formula 2 or 4) have good stability at 24 hours. The lipsticks were then exposed for two months in an oven at 47 C. The lipstick sticks corresponding to the comparative formulas present a significant exudation in drops on the whole stick, as well as blisters and cracks. The lipstick sticks made with a formulation according to the invention do not exhibit any of these alterations. The resulting lipstick is glossy, non-sticky and non-migrating.

  Example II: Lipstick Formulations Two lipstick compositions were prepared. Formulation B is a composition according to the invention, while formulation A is a control composition.

  In% relative to the total weight of the composition Components Formulation A Control Formulation B stearyl polyacrylate 11 11 (Intelimer IPA 13-1 from Landec) Behenyl polyacrylate 11 11 Isononyl isononanoate 10 10 tri-isoketyl citrate 10, 22 10.22 Octyldodecanol 15.32 15.32 Pigments 9 9 Hydrogenated polyisobutene Qs 100 100 Qs (Parleam) 2 2 12-hydroxy stearic acid oligomer stearate (Octacia DSP OL300 from AVECIA) Kaolin 4.46 2 Copolymer di-methacrylate - 0.5 ethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate (Lambert River Polytrap 603) Preparation The lipsticks were prepared according to the procedure described in Example I. The control lipstick present, after exposure for 24 hours at room temperature, a net exudation and large droplets on the stick.

  In contrast, the lipstick stick made with the formulation according to the invention has, after exposure for 24 hours at room temperature, a smooth, glossy appearance, without trace of exudation.

Claims (26)

  1. A non-fluid cosmetic composition comprising at least one liquid fatty phase and containing at least: an effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline polymer with a lateral crystallizable chain (s), a non-mineral filler pigmentary, and - a non-pigmentary organic filler.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises at least one semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of low melting point having a melting temperature of less than 50 C, in particular in a range from 30 C to less than 50 C.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of high melting point having a melting temperature of at least equal or greater than 50 ° C., in particular ranging from 55 ° to 150 ° C., and more particularly ranging from 60 ° to 130 ° C.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of at least one semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s) of low melting point and at least one semicrystalline crystalline side chain polymer (s) with a high melting point.   5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the weight ratio of the semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of high melting point and the semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) (s) crystallizable (s) of low melting point is in the range of 10/90 to 90/10, and in particular of 40/60 to 60/40.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of low melting point is stearyl polyacrylate.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the semicrystalline polymer with side chain (s) crystallizable (s) of high melting point is behenyl polyacrylate.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the non-pigmentary inorganic filler and the non-pigmentary organic filler is in the range of 1: 1 to 10: 1, in particular 2 1 to 6: 1, more preferably 3: 1 to 5: 1.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-pigmentary inorganic filler is present in a proportion of 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight. %, more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-pigmentary organic filler is present in a proportion of 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular 0.1 at 3%, and more particularly from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-pigmentary inorganic filler is chosen from the group comprising kaolin, silica, bentone and mixtures thereof.   12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-pigmentary organic filler is chosen from the group comprising nylon, polytrap, 12-hydroxy-stearic oligomer stearate, PMMA, and mixtures thereof. .   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase is chosen from an oil of mineral origin, animal, vegetable, synthetic, and mixtures thereof.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase is selected from hydrogenated polyisobutene, tri-isoketyl citrate, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one dyestuff.   16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the dyestuff is chosen from lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.   17. Composition according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the dyestuff is present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from 5 to 25%.   18. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the pigments and pearlescent agents are introduced in the form of a pigment paste.   19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one solid fatty phase selected from waxes, gums, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.   20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one additive selected from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, neutralizers, fragrances, surfactants, and mixtures thereof.   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in anhydrous form.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in cast form.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, deodorant, body makeup product. , eye shadow or cheek, concealer product.   24. Lipstick comprising at least one liquid fatty phase containing: at least one effective amount of at least one semi-crystalline crystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable, at least one non-mineral filler pigmentary, and - at least one non-pigmented organic filler.   25. A cosmetic process for the care, make-up or treatment of the skin or the lips of the face of human beings, comprising the application to the skin or the lips of the face of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims.   26. Cosmetic use of at least one non-pigmentary inorganic filler and at least one non-pigmentary organic filler in a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one liquid fatty phase structured by at least a sufficient amount of at least a semicrystalline polymer with lateral chain (s) crystallizable (s), and having an improved stability with regard to the exudation.