FR2853241A1 - Treatment or prevention of signs of aging or stress on the skin, by application of compositions that have a thermal effect to specific acupuncture points on face or neck - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic process for prevention and/or treatment of signs of aging or stress on the skin comprises applying a transdermal system containing at least one composition (A) with a thermal effect. Application is made to at least one of the acupuncture points PC-1, 6-E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 23-VC, on the face or neck, or to a limited region that contains these points. An independent claim is also included for a kit that contains (A) and instructions showing the location of the appropriate acupuncture points.

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating

signs

  skin of aging and / or stress including the application, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or neck chosen from points PC-1, 6-E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 5 23 -VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, of a transdermal system comprising at least one composition with thermal effect.

  In particular, a transdermal system with a thermal effect of the heating or cooling hydrogel type will be used.

  Women, even men, currently tend to want to look young for as long as possible and therefore seek to fade the marks of aging skin, which are reflected in particular by wrinkles and fine lines. In this regard, advertising and fashion refer to products intended to keep radiant and wrinkle-free skin as long as possible, marks of young skin, all the more since the physical appearance acts on the psyche and / or on morale.

  Until now, wrinkles and fine lines have been treated with cosmetic products containing active agents which act on the skin, for example by moisturizing it or improving its cell renewal or by promoting the synthesis of the collagen which makes up skin tissue.

  Although these treatments act on wrinkles and fine lines due to chronological or intrinsic aging, as well as those due to photoaging, they have no effect on expression lines, which require intervention on the muscle contractile component of wrinkles present in the skin. These expression lines are in principle arranged radially around the mouth and / or the eyes and / or horizontally on the forehead and / or located in the intersourcing space.

  The Applicant has previously shown that the contractile muscle fibers, in particular striated muscle fibers, which are under the direct control of the neuromuscular influx, play an essential role in the formation of expression lines and that the modulation neuro-muscular influx attenuated expression wrinkles and also had a "smoothing" effect on the skin microrelief. In addition, the repeated mechanical traction exerted by the subcutaneous muscles in the facial expression areas (forehead, glabella and crow's feet) create tension forces in the dermis, which would gradually modify the phenotype of fibroblasts present in the wrinkle area, making them acquire particular contractile properties.

  At the same time, the skin is subjected to cutaneous stress, which can be of chemical, physical, mechanical or bacterial origin. It is known in fact that during superficial cutaneous stress, the keratinocytes of the superficial layers of the epidermis release biological mediators which have the capacity to attract certain infiltrating cells of the skin, themselves responsible for the maintenance of '' transient local irritation. These cells infiltrating irritated or attacked areas then release enzymes such as leukocyte elastase, under the action of which in particular, the elastic fibers of extracellular support of the connective tissue can be degraded, and thus lead to a reduction in the elasticity of the skin.

  Thus, in the long term, the sum of superficial cutaneous micro-stress, for example generated by prolonged exposure to UV or by irritants, can lead to a more or less accelerated loss of the natural elasticity of the skin. The network formed by the elastic fibers of the underlying connective tissue and extracellular spaces can then gradually be destructured. It follows an accelerated aging of the skin (wrinkled and / or less supple skin) via the alteration of the dermal elastic network, as well as an accentuation of wrinkles (deeper wrinkles). The main areas of sagging skin in the face and neck are located in the cheekbones, the nasolabial fold and under the chin.

  One of the means commonly used to act on expression lines is the botulinum toxin which is injected in particular into the glabella lines which are inter-eyebrow lines (see JD Carruters et al., J. Dermatol. Surg. Oncol. , 1992, 18, pp. 1721). Dermatologists also use degradable implants based on collagen, hyaluronic acid or polylactic acid. However, these methods have the disadvantage of requiring medical intervention and do not give lasting results.

  Cosmetic processes are also known which involve the stimulation of acupuncture points, which use magnetic and / or electrical systems, or more traditionally acupuncture needles; but these methods require the intervention of a practitioner and sometimes generate dyesthetic sensations 5. (heating, pain) for the patient.

  There is therefore a need to find new cosmetic methods for preventing and / or treating the skin signs of aging and / or stress, which are easier to implement and do not have the drawbacks of the methods described above. 10 Now the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that the application of a transdermal system with thermal effect, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or neck chosen from points PC-1, 6-E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 23VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, made it possible to modify the bioenergetic environment 15 at the acupuncture point and thus mimic the effects of acupuncture, in particular by inducing variations in local temperature by a 'cooling' or 'warming' thermal effect. This modification of the bioenergetic environment consists in particular of variations in cellular ionic fluxes at the point of application capable of leading, depending on the points of application, to relaxed and / or de-stressed skin 20 (points PC-1 and 6-E ) or on the contrary to a toned and / or firmed skin (points 18-IG, 19GI and 23-VC).

  Acupuncture is based on an energy model in which energy flows along specific paths called meridians, each meridian being associated with a particular physiological system and a specific internal organ. Acupuncture points are specific sites along the meridians, each point having a predictable effect on essential energy.

  This process associating (i) transdermal systems with thermal effect and (ii) acupuncture points on the face and / or neck with relaxing effect (points PC-1 and 6-E) or with toning effect (points 18-IG , 19-GI and 23-VC), has the advantage of being easy to implement and of not generating dyesthetic sensations for the patient; on the contrary, the latter even feels a pleasant impression of relaxed and / or firmer, and visibly rejuvenated skin.

  A first object of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the skin signs of aging and / or stress, comprising the application, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or of the chosen neck among points PC-1, 6-E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 23VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, of a transdermal system comprising at least one composition with thermal effect, otherwise called 'transdermal system with thermal effect'.

  This process makes it possible to influence the bioenergetic environment at the acupuncture point and to generate the effect mediated by the specific nature of the chosen acupuncture point, namely a 'relaxing' effect (PC-1, 6-E) or a 'toning' effect (18-IG, 19-GI and 23-VC).

  The “cutaneous signs of aging” according to the invention are in particular the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular expression wrinkles.

  The 'cutaneous signs of stress' according to the invention are in particular an alteration of the dermal elastic network leading to a loss of elasticity and sagging of the skin.

  The 'acupuncture points of the face and / or neck' according to the invention are characterized in that they are: (i) located at the level of the wrinkle-forming zones (forehead, glabella, goose paste) and / or areas of tension (before the mandibular gonion) and associated with relaxing energy; or (ii) localized in the areas of sagging skin (submental, nasolabial fold, cheekbones), and associated with a toning energy.

  We will use in particular the acupuncture points with a 'relaxing' or 'toning' effect on the face and / or neck described in the Dictionary of acupuncture points by Drs G. Guillaume and M. Chieu: The points with a 'relaxing' effect are: - PC1- Yin Tang, located at the forehead (wrinkle formation area), between the two eyebrows at the glabella; it eliminates heat and wind, calms the mind; - the 6E- Jia Che, located in front of the mandibular gonion (area of tension); it releases the tensions of the masseters in the case of contracture.

  The points with a 'toning' effect are: - 18IG7Quan Liao, located directly below the palpebral commissure 5, in a depression located at the lower edge of the zygomatic arch; it disperses the wind, invigorates the Luo (tones the energy in the transfer of meridians), permeabilizes the meridians, calms the pain; - 19GI- He Liao, located on either side of the nasolabial fold; it tones the sagging nasolabial fold; - 23VC- Lian Quan, located under the chin; it strengthens the elasticity of the epidermis at the sub-chin level.

  The location of these points is presented in the attached figure.

  By "restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising said acupuncture point" is meant an area comprising one of the acupuncture points according to the invention taken in isolation, said area not extending to the face and / or entire neck. For example, this zone could correspond to the size of the patch applied to said acupuncture point, generally 22 between 0.25 cm and 20 cm and preferably between 0.25 and 5 cm2.

  The 'transdermal system' according to the invention can be any system allowing active or passive release of the active substance by transdermia. Among the transdermal systems applicable to the invention, there may be mentioned for example: - patches, that is to say any active ingredient delivery system having a composite structure in the form of layers which, by application to the skin, ensures the release of the active product by transdermia. We can cite for example: o patches with controlled release with a hydrophobic polymer matrix (FR 2 738 744 L'Oreal); o reservoir-type patches containing an active substance reservoir, a diffusion membrane and an adhesive layer; O patches with optimized adhesion, comprising a hydrophobic polymer layer fixed on a support layer and containing particles of active compound, oil particles and particles of a water-absorbing agent (FR2 761 889 L'Oreal); o patch gels with a high water content, of hydrogel type, in particular based on at least one hydrocolloid, and having a contact adhesion, similar to that resulting from a suction effect; o oily patch gels based on copolymers of styrene and isoprene which may contain a high proportion of hydrophobic compounds.

  - composite films as described in EP-A-0 285 563; advantageously, it is possible to use a composite film comprising a reservoir layer constituted by a matrix formed of a silicone polymer inside of which are arranged inclusions constituted by the active aqueous phase gelled by means of at least one gelling agent (FR 2,650,747 L'Oreal); - solid fine films based on natural or synthetic polymers which applied to previously wet skin dissolve in situ (WO 02/053197); - compositions based on polymers having adhesive properties capable of forming a film which is removed after drying (EP-0 514 760, EP-0 826 364) or an elastic and pliable solid layer removed by applying a fabric or an adhesive plastic (WO 93/05893); or gels or pastes ('beauty masks') which, after application to the face, dry to give a film which is removed by washing, cleaning or tearing off; we generally speak of 'varnish-patch' or 'peel-patch'.

  Advantageously, in the context of the invention, patches or patch gels, otherwise known as “hydrogels”, will be used.

  The patch generally comprises at least one polymer matrix of which a surface, adhesive or capable of becoming so, in particular after hydration, is intended to be brought into contact with the skin.

  By “polymer matrix” is meant a layer of hydrophobic or hydrophilic polymer which may consist of a self-adhesive matrix (on dry skin and / or on wet skin).

  The “hydrophobic” polymeric matrices constituting the “conventional” patches are based in particular on polyacrylic, polyvinyl adhesive, or on a silicone polymer of polyurethane, styrene or isopropene, the crosslinking of which is preferably partial so as to give it adhesion without requiring an additional adhesive layer. An adhesive matrix made of latex, butyl or any other elastomeric adhesive can also be used.

  The “hydrophilic” polymer matrices constituting the “hydrogel” patches are based in particular on natural or modified polysaccharides, polyacrylates, acrylamide derivatives, pyrrolidone, caprolactam and their copolymers, proteins. The hydrocolloid (s) used can, for example, be chosen from the group formed by: gellan gum; cellulose or its derivatives; algae extracts such as agaragar, carrageenans, alginates; seed extracts such as locust bean gum, guar gum, guar gums modified in particular by grafting an alkyl group; exudates from plants or microorganisms; fruit extracts such as pectins; gelling agents of animal origin such as gelatin, caseinates; synthetic water-soluble gelling polymers such as polyacrylic acids crosslinked, optionally with an alkyl chain, such as "Carbopol" or Pemulen "from the company GOODRICH; silicon derivatives such as synthetic hectorites such as" Laponite RD and RDS " sold by the company WAVERLY, aluminum and magnesium silicates such as the product "Veegum" 15 sold by the company VANDERBILT; products of the POLYCAREO type, marketed by the company Rhone-Poulenc; or a mixture of these compounds.

  The surface of the matrix intended to come into contact with the skin may be smooth or have roughness or reliefs.

  Preferably, the polymer matrix is deposited on a support. Such a support can be made of any suitable material impermeable to the active compounds contained in the adjacent matrix.

  The support can be an occlusive support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material, chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes, or a complex of such materials. These materials can also be present in laminated form with at least one metal sheet such as an aluminum sheet.

  The support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is between approximately 20 μm and approximately 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to be able to perfectly match the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user a feeling of discomfort.

  Preferably, however, the support is' non-occlusive. In the latter hypothesis, a support is advantageously used consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric, a perforated nonwoven fabric.

  Preferably, the patch comprises at least one protective sheet, peelable before application of the patch.

  In known manner, the patches according to the present invention can be cut according to an appropriate contour corresponding to the area of the skin surface to be treated. In general, the size of a patch according to the invention is between 0.25 cm2 and 20 cm2, and preferably between 0.25 and 5 cm.

  The patch can be packaged in a tray or in a protective bag formed by two sheets of a paper / waterproof plastic film complex, the paper being coated with a cold-sealable adhesive, the sheets being sealed around the patch by contact of adhesive coated surfaces.

  Advantageously also, the patch according to the invention comprises at least one zone of small dimension, in the form of a tab, capable of promoting the detachment of the patch.

  Preferably, such a patch or gel-patch is used at the acupuncture point for a duration of application of between imin and 120 min, and preferably of between 15 min and 30 min, but the duration of application may be longer. long, for example all night. The term “composition with a thermal effect” means any composition capable, after application of the transdermal system to the skin, of generating a “cooling” or “warming” effect.

  As an example of 'compositions with a cooling effect', mention may be made of formulations of the hydrogel type which, due to the very high water content and the physical state of the water inside the polymer network, make it possible to capture the heat. of the skin, inducing a feeling of freshness, as described in applications WO 0032154, US 6,224,899 and 30 US 6,039, 971. The cool effect provided by the hydrogels results from the lowering of their temperature occurring during the evaporation of the water in the hydrogel.

  It is also possible to use a hydrogel containing “thermostabilizing” microcapsules containing at least one encapsulated crystalline compound having a melting temperature slightly lower than the temperature of human skin, for example between 250C to 40C, to prolong the supply of freshness, as described in application FR-2 825 631 (L'Oreal). As an example of encapsulated crystalline compounds, mention may be made of straight-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms. The hydrogels will then contain from 0.1% to 90% by weight of thermostabilizing microcapsules, based on the final hydrogel.

  The composition may also comprise compounds with a refreshing effect, such as menthol or plant extracts and / or essential oils of mint, aloe vera or ginseng for example. These compounds are generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

  As an example of 'compositions with a heating effect', it is advantageous to use exothermic compositions comprising at least iron powder capable, when oxidized in the presence of oxygen, of generating heat. In this case, the formulation must be maintained in a non-oxidizable form until application at the acupuncture point; the patch will then be packaged and stored in a heat-sealed and oxygen-impermeable sachet, in the form of an aluminum / polyethylene complex, by

example.

  Advantageously, the composition will also comprise carbon, metal salts and water.

  As a source of iron powder, mention may be made of reduced iron powder, electrolytic iron powder, iron alloys, fragmented iron powder. Generally, an amount of iron powder will be used between 30 and 80% of the total weight of the exothermic composition.

  As carbon source, animal products, oils, resins, etc. can be used. The carbon is generally in an amount between 3 to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

  The metal salts usable in such a composition include sulfates such as iron, potassium, sodium, manganese, magnesium sulfate; chlorides such as potassium, sodium, calcium, manganese chlorides; carbonates, acetates, nitrates, nitrites and other metallic salts. These salts are generally in proportions of between 1 to 5% by total weight of the composition.

  The water is generally in an amount between i to 40% of the total weight of the composition.

  It is also possible to use compositions comprising at least one compound with a warming effect, such as camphor, capsaicin or plant extracts or essential oils of eucalyptus or ginger for example. These compounds are generally used at concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

  According to a first embodiment, the method according to the invention aims to prevent and / or smooth wrinkles and fine lines, in particular expression lines and / or relax facial features; it includes the application on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or the neck chosen from the 'relaxing' points PC-i and 6-E or a restricted area of the face and / or the neck comprising it, a thermal effect transdermal system.

  Alternatively, it is possible to use a transdermal system with a cooling or heating thermal effect, both of which are capable of inducing bioenergetic movements at the level of said acupuncture points dedicated to relaxation.

  Preferably, on the relaxing acupuncture points of the face and / or neck as defined above, a warming hydrogel-type transdermal system will be used.

  According to a second embodiment, the method according to the invention aims to firm and / or tone the skin; it includes application to at least one acupuncture point on the face and / or neck chosen from the 'toning' points 18-IG, 19-GI and 23-VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck. comprising, a transdermal system with thermal effect.

  Alternatively, a transdermal system with a cooling or warming thermal effect can be used, both of which are capable of inducing bioenergetic movements at the said acupuncture points dedicated to stimulation.

  Preferably, toning acupuncture points on the face and / or neck as defined above will be used with a refreshing hydrogel-type transdermal system. A preferred method according to the invention simultaneously aims to relax the forehead and firm the cheekbones of the face; it includes the application of a warming hydrogel on the 'relaxing' point PC1 or on a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, and a refreshing hydrogel on the 'toning' point 18-IG or an area restricted face and / or neck comprising it. The application will be done simultaneously on the two points 1 8- IG on the cheekbones.

  The transdermal system according to the invention can also comprise at least one compound chosen from anti-wrinkle oils, vitamins and their mixtures.

  Among the “anti-wrinkle oils”, there may be mentioned the essential oil of dill, geranium bourbon, rosewood, myrtle and vetiver.

  As 'vitamins' which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following vitamins: A, D2, BI, B2, B5, B6, B12, C and E as well as nicotinic acid (vitamin PP) and biotin (vitamin H ), and their mixtures. The vitamins are generally in amounts between 0.1 to 10%, preferably between 1 and 5%.

  The amount of these assets can vary widely. Generally, these active agents are present in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 15% and preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Also within the scope of the invention is a cosmetic treatment kit comprising 20 (1) at least one transdermal system with thermal effect and (2) a user manual indicating the location of the acupuncture points of the face and / or neck at (i) areas of wrinkle and / or tension formation or (ii) areas of sagging skin.

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic use, on at least one acupuncture point 25 of the face and / or of the neck, of a transdermal system with thermal effect, as a substitute for implanted and / or electrical acupuncture systems. , to prevent and / or treat skin signs of aging and / or stress.

  The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention.

  The figure shows the location of the acupuncture points on the face and neck specific to the 'relaxing' or 'toning' effect for the application of transdermal patches with thermal effect defined according to the invention.

EXAMPLES

  Example 1: Refreshing hydrogel patch (1) Sodium polyacrylate (2) Ethyl Parahydroxybenzoate (3) Propyl Parahydroxybenzoate (4) Propylene Glycol (5) Copolymer Sodium starch Acrylate (6) Tartaric Acid (7) Glycerin (8) Water 5- 10% 0.05 - 0.15% 0.05 - 0.15% 0.2 - 2% 1 -2% 0.21% 10 - 25% 60 - 75% The method of preparation of said formulation is described below - below: Compounds (2), (3) and (4) are mixed together and dissolved by heating if necessary. Compound (7) is then added, then compounds (1) and (5). In another tank, the compound (6) is dissolved in (8) by stirring for 3 hours. The whole is then added to the preceding mixture. This mixture is then deposited on a non-woven support (polyester 65 g / m2) to form the patch.

  Example 2: Warming hydro2el patch (1) Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose (2) Starch grafted Acrylate 1000 (3) DL- Malic Acid 1-2% 1-2% 0.1-0.5% (4) Butyl Parahydroxybenzoate 0.1- 0.2% (5) Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate 0.1-0.2% (6) Kaolin 1-5% (7) Sodium Polyacrylate 4-7% (8) Aluminum Hydroxide Gel 0.1-0.2% (9 ) Glycerine 10-20% (10) Water 70-80% The method of preparation of said formulation is described below: Compounds (3), (4), (5) are mixed together and dissolved in compound (9 ).

  Then compounds (6) and (8) are added, then (2) and (7). In another tank, the compound (1) is dissolved in (10) by stirring. The whole is then added to the previous mixture. This mixture is then deposited on a polyurethane support to form the patch.

  This patch is then heated for 20 seconds in a microwave oven at 600 W and then applied to the area to be treated.

  The application of the warming hydrogel patch will be done on the PC-1 frontal point, preferably in the evening at bedtime on well-cleaned skin.

  The application of the refreshing hydrogel patch will be done on the cheekbones 18-IG, preferably in the evening at bedtime on well-cleaned skin.

  The duration of application is generally 15 to 30 minutes but it is possible to leave the patches to act overnight.

  This application allows a diffusion of the cooling or warming effect of the formulation at the level of the epidermis at a specific acupuncture point, to modify the bioenergetic environment and mimic the effect of acupuncture at the point of application. defined. After a few weeks, the skin is visibly relaxed and smoothed out.

  level of the areas of tension and / or formation of wrinkles (forehead), and firmer, toned at the level of the areas of relaxation (cheekbones).

Claims (9)

  1. Cosmetic method for preventing and / or treating the skin signs of aging and / or stress comprising the application, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or neck chosen from points PC-1, 6 -E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 23-VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, of a transdermal system comprising at least one composition with thermal effect.   2. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, characterized in that the application of a transdermal system with thermal effect, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or of the neck chosen from points PC1, 6-E, 18-IG, 19-GI and 23V-C or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, 15 makes it possible to influence the bioenergetic environment at the acupuncture point.   3. Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that a transdermal system of the heating hydrogel or cooling hydrogel type is used.   4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3 for preventing and / or smoothing wrinkles and fine lines, in particular expression lines and / or relaxing facial features, characterized in that one applies to the at least one acupuncture point for the face and / or neck chosen from the PC-1 and 6-E 'relaxing' points or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, a warming hydrogel type transdermal system.   5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3 for firming and / or toning the skin, characterized in that one applies to at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or the neck chosen from the points' toners' 18-IG, 19-GI and 23-VC or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it, a refreshing hydrogel-type transdernal system.   6. Method according to one of claims l to 5 for simultaneously relaxing the forehead and firming the cheekbones of the face, characterized in that a warming hydrogel is applied to the relaxing point PCl or a restricted area of the face and / or neck including it, and a refreshing hydrogel on the toning point 1 8-IG or a restricted area of the face and / or neck comprising it.   7. Method according to one of claims i to 6, characterized in that the transdermal system further comprises at least one compound chosen from anti-wrinkle oils, vitamins and their mixtures. 10 8. Cosmetic treatment kit comprising (1) at least one transdermal system with thermal effect and (2) instructions for use indicating the location of the acupuncture points of the face and / or neck respectively at (i) the zones formation of wrinkles and / or tensions or (ii) areas of sagging skin.   9. Cosmetic use, on at least one acupuncture point of the face and / or neck, of a transdermal system with thermal effect, as a substitute for implanted and / or electrical acupuncture systems, for preventing and / or treat the skin signs of aging and / or stress.