FR2848109A1 - An oxidant composition for use with hair dyeing, bleaching and permanent waving compositions comprises poly(acrylamidopropane sulfonic acid) and an acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid/acrylic acid or acrylate copolymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Oxidizing composition for the hair comprising one or more oxidants - hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing it by hydrolysis, one or more copolymers based on acrylamido-2-propane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid or 1-4C, optionally hydroxylated, alkyl acrylate and one or more crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or amphiphilic copolymers comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid unit and at least one unit comprising a hydrophobic part. Independent claims are included for (1) a method of oxidation dyeing of human hair using a coloring composition comprising at least one oxidation colorant precursor and the claimed oxidizing composition; (2) a method of treating human hair to obtain a permanent wave comprising the application of a reducing composition and mechanical tensioning of the hair, optionally rinsing, applying the claimed oxidant composition and rinsing; (3) a method of bleaching or decoloring human hair by applying the claimed oxidant composition and rinsing; (4) a two compartment kit for hair perming in which on compartment contains a suitable reducing composition and the other the claimed composition; (5) a two compartment kit for hair bleaching in which on compartment contains a powder or anhydrous paste containing at least one persalt and the other the claimed composition.

Description

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Oxidizing compositions containing a mixture of polymers including at least one copolymer based on acrylic acid or optionally hydroxylated alkyl acrylate and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid
The present invention relates to oxidizing compositions for the treatment of keratin materials comprising a polymer mixture including at least one copolymer based on 2acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and acrylic acid or optionally alkyl acrylate. hydroxylated, their uses for dyeing, for permanent deformation or for the bleaching or stripping of human keratin fibers and in particular the hair.

 It is known to decolorize keratinous fibers and in particular human hair with bleaching compositions containing one or more oxidizing agents. Among the oxidizing agents conventionally used, mention may be made of hydrogen peroxide or compounds capable of producing by hydrolysis of hydrogen peroxide, such as urea peroxide or persalts such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, hydrogen peroxide being particularly preferred.

 These bleaching compositions are generally in the form of anhydrous products (powders or creams) containing alkaline compounds (amines and alkali silicates), and a peroxygenated reagent such as a persulfate, perborate or percarbonate of ammonium or alkali metals, which it is diluted at the time of use with an aqueous composition of hydrogen peroxide.

 The bleaching compositions can also result from mixing, at the time of use, the anhydrous powder of reagent

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 peroxygenated with an aqueous composition containing the alkaline compounds and another aqueous composition containing the hydrogen peroxide.

 It is also known to dye keratinous fibers, and in particular human hair, with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular ortho or para-phenylene diamines, ortho or para-aminophenols, heterocyclic compounds, generally referred to as dyeing bases. 'oxidation.

The oxidation dye precursors, or oxidation bases, are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds or dyes by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as than indolic compounds.

To locate the product of discoloration or dye on the hair so that it does not run on the face or outside the areas that are proposed to discolor, so far we have used the use of thickeners such as crosslinked polyacrylic acid, hydroxyethylcelluloses, certain polyurethanes, waxes, and additionally, in the case of aqueous decolorizing compositions, to mixtures of nonionic surfactants of HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic
Balance) suitably selected, which cause the gelling effect when diluted with water and / or surfactants.

 More recently, the use of amphiphilic polymers having at least one unsaturated monomer has been discovered.

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 ethylene sulfonic group and more particularly polymers or copolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, subject of the patent application FR 2,818,537 to obtain solutions of hydrogen peroxide thickened or in gel form, stable to conservation.

 However, the formulas thus thickened, or gelled, pose a problem of use when mixing the oxidant with a staining medium. Indeed, it occurs from the first moments of the mixture a very important fluidification of the two formulas. Even if this fluidification phase is only transient, the use of these oxidizing formulas is problematic, especially for professionals.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that it is possible to reduce very strongly this fluidification observed during the mixtures, by combining at least one copolymer based on acrylic acid or optionally hydroxylated alkyl acrylate and acid.
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid with oxidizing formulas containing at least one polymer having at least one particular 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid unit sequence. The Applicant has thus obtained thickened, storage stable oxidizing compositions, whatever the source of oxygenated water used and by avoiding the problems of fluidification, particularly in case of mixing.

 The invention also relates to processes for the oxidation dyeing of keratinous fibers, the processes for treating said fibers, and in particular perming, fading or stripping processes, as well as dyeing devices or multi-compartment kits.

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 Other characteristics, aspects, objects and advantages of the invention appearing in the description below will make it possible to better understand the invention.

 For the purposes of the present invention, stripping is understood to mean total or partial destruction of the synthetic pigments or dyes present on or in the keratinous fibers resulting from a direct dyeing or oxidation process.

 By decolorization is meant in the sense of the present invention total or partial destruction of the natural pigments present in the keratinous fibers (in particular eumelanines and phaeomelanins).

 The subject of the present invention is therefore an oxidizing composition for keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, and more particularly the hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (a) at least one oxidizing agent chosen from the group formed by peroxide of hydrogen and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis or mixtures thereof, (b) at least one copolymer based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and acrylic or acid-based acid 2 acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, C1-C6 alkyl acrylate, and (c) at least one polymer chosen from cross-linked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymers or amphiphilic copolymers consisting of at least one sequence of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid units, and at least one unit providing a hydrophobic part.

 For the purposes of the present invention, hydrophobic part is understood to mean a hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or otherwise, saturated or unsaturated.

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 The polymers contained in the composition according to the invention are in free form or are partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di or tri-ethanolamine, a aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine as well as mixtures of these compounds.

 The copolymer (b) is formed by 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and acrylic acid or with 2acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylate, optionally hydroxylated or even polyhydroxylated.

Preferably, the monomer used is hydroxyethyl acrylate.

 The polymers (c) contain at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid unit sequence. Thus, when these polymers consist only of this sequence, they are poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) homopolymers. These are described in patent FR 2 753 372.

According to the invention, the polymers poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) are crosslinked, preferably by trimethylol propane triacrylate and comprise, distributed randomly: from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) below:

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 wherein X + denotes a cation, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations, at most 10 mol% of the cations may be H + protons; from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

 Preferably, the crosslinked poly (2-acylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) homopolymer comprises a number of units of formula (1) in a sufficiently high quantity to obtain polymer particles whose hydrodynamic volume in water solution has a radius ranging from 10 to 500 nm and whose distribution is homogeneous and unimodal.

 The crosslinked poly (2-acylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) polymers are present in the cosmetic compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 10% and more particularly from 0.05% to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

 When the polymers (c) contain more than one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid unit sequence, the copolymer is chosen from amphiphilic copolymers consisting of at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid unit sequence. and at least one pattern providing a hydrophobic portion. These amphiphilic polymers are described in patent application FR 2 818 540.

 The amphiphilic copolymers have a molecular weight by weight ranging from 20,000 to 10,000,000, preferably from 50,000 to 8,000,000, more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000.

 These can be crosslinked. When they are, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from polyunsaturated compounds

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 olefins commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Preferably, these agents are chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking preferably ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

 The amphiphilic copolymers comprise at least one block of a hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation comprising at least one hydrophobic part ranging from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

(2) dans laquelle R1 et R3, identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical alkyle, linéaire ou ramifié en C1-C6, de préférence méthyle ; Y désigne 0 ou NH ; R2 désigne un radical hydrocarboné hydrophobe comportant de 6 à 50 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement de 6 à 22 atomes de carbone et encore plus préférentiellement de 6 à 18 atomes de carbone ; désigne un nombre de moles d'alkylène allant de 0 à 100. This hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation is chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (2) below:

(2) wherein R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y is 0 or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms; denotes a number of moles of alkylene ranging from 0 to 100.

 The amphiphilic polymers described above are present in concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and even more

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 preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 Another subject of the invention is a process for the oxidation dyeing of human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair using a dye composition comprising, in a support suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, at least one dye precursor oxidation and an oxidizing composition as defined above. At the time of use, the coloring composition is mixed with the oxidizing composition described; the resulting mixture is then applied to the keratinous fibers and left for about 3 to 50 minutes, preferably about 5 to 30 minutes, followed by a rinsing step, washing with shampoo, rinsing again and finally drying. The coloring composition and the oxidizing composition described can be applied sequentially, in any order, with or without intermediate rinsing.

 Another subject of the present invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair, with a view to obtaining a permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permed hair, this process comprising the following steps .

 A reducing composition is applied to the keratinous material to be treated, the keratin fiber being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application. It is wicked by wick or globally. It is conventional to leave the hair on which the reducing composition has been applied for a few minutes, generally from 5 minutes to one hour. Thus, the reducer has time to act on the hair. This phase

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 standby is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 35 C to 45 C, preferably protecting the hair with a cap.

 The keratin fiber impregnated with the reducing composition is optionally rinsed with an aqueous composition.

 The oxidizing composition according to the invention is applied to the optionally rinsed keratinous fiber, in order to fix the new shape imposed on the hair. Again, the treated hair is left standing for 3 to 30 minutes, preferably 5 to 15 minutes.

 The keratinous fiber undergoes, once again, rinsing, generally with water.

 The oxidizing composition according to the invention can also be used in a process for bleaching or pickling human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: an application to the keratin fiber of the oxidizing composition according to the invention and then a rinsing step of the keratin fiber thus treated.

 Another object of the invention is a device with 2 compartments for dyeing or for permanent deformation or for the bleaching of keratinous fibers. A first compartment contains either a coloring composition or a reducing composition or a first oxidizing composition and a second compartment contains the oxidizing composition defined above.

 In the context of the bleaching, the first composition is preferably an anhydrous powder or paste containing at least one persalt.

 The following examples illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

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Example 1
The Applicant has carried out a comparative test in order to highlight the improvement made in the fluidification during the mixing of the oxidizing composition and the coloring composition.

 The Applicant has made 3 compositions, 2 according to the prior art and one according to the invention. (table below).

 The stability of these oxidizing gels has been studied over time.

This assessment was made by a panel of 5 experts.

<Tb>
<Tb>

Formula <SEP> A <SEP> Formula <SEP> B <SEP> Formula <SEP> C
<tb> compliant <SEP> compliant <SEP> compliant
<tb> to <SEP> art <SEP> to <SEP> art <SEP> to
<tb> previous <SEP> previous <SEP> the invention
<tb> Water <SEP> oxygenated <SEP> 6% <SEP> 6% <SEP> 6%
<tb> Acid <SEP> polyacrylamidomethyl- <SEP> 1.5% <SEP> 1.5%
<tb> propane <SEP> sulfonic <SEP> crosslinked <SEP> and
<tb> partially <SEP> neutralized <SEP> to <SEP> 50% <SEP> by
<tb> ammonia <SEP> sold <SEP> by <SEP> Clariant
<tb> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> Hostacerin
<tb> AMPS
<tb> Copolymer <SEP> Acid <SEP> Acrylic <SEP> 1% <SEP> 1%
<tb> / acrylamidomethylpropane <SEP> sulfonic acid <SEP> salt <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> in <SEP> emulsion
<tb> inverse <SEP> to <SEP> 45% <SEP> in <SEP> isohexadecane / water <SEP> sold <SEP> by <SEP> Seppic <SEP> under
<tb> the <SEP> name <SEP> Simulgel <SEP> EG
<tb> Agent <SEP> of <SEP> pH <SEP> Qsp <SEP> Qsp <SEP> Qsp
<tb> pH = 3.4 <SEP> pH = 3.4 <SEP> pH = 3.4
<tb> water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100g <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100g <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100g
<Tb>

The composition of formula B is unstable, in fact it has a drop in viscosity after 2 months at 45 C, while the compositions of formulas A and C remain stable.

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 The dyestuff used to make the mixtures is the EXCELLENCE grade 5 commercial support from L 'ORÉAL.

Fluidification was evaluated by a panel of 5 experts.

 The compositions of formulas A and B have a significant fluidification from the first moments of the mixture.

 The composition of formula C has no significant fluidification observed.

 These comparative tests clearly show the superior effect of the combination of the two polymers, in contrast to single polymer compositions.

Example 2

<Tb>
<tb> Formula <SEP> D <SEP> compliant <SEP> to
<tb> the <SEP> invention <SEP>
<tb> Water <SEP> ox <SEP> ene <SEP> 6%
<tb> Stannate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 0.04%
<tb> P <SEP> rro <SEP> hos <SEP> fast <SEP> of <SEP> sodium <SEP> 0.03%
<tb> alcoholisostearyl alcohol <SEP> 2%
<tb> Copolymer <SEP> AMPS / methacrylate <SEP> from <SEP> cetearyl <SEP> 1 <SEP>% <SEP>
<tb> ethoxyl <SEP> (25 <SEP> EO) <SEP> 80/20, <SEP> crosslinked <SEP> with <SEP> trimethylolpropane <SEP> triacrylate <SEP> (TMPTA) <SEP> sold
<tb> by <SEP> Clariant <SEP> under <SEP> the <SEP> name <SEP> Aristoflex
<tb> HMS
<tb> Copolymer <SEP> Acrylamido-2-methylpropane <SEP> 0.8%
<tb> sulfonic acid <SEP> of <SEP> sodium / hydroxyethylacrylate <SEP> in
<tb> emulsion <SEP> inverse <SEP> to <SEP> 40% <SEP> in <SEP> of <SEP> polysorbate
<tb> 60 / squalane <SEP> sold <SEP> by <SEP> Seppic <SEP> under <SEP> la
<tb> name <SEP> Simulgel <SEP> NS
<tb> Agent <SEP> of <SEP> pH <SEP> Qsp <SEP> pH = 3,4
<tb> water <SEP> Qsp <SEP> 100g
<Tb>

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Similarly, when an amphiphilic copolymer according to the invention is associated with the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymer, according to formula D, the fluidification is not observed when mixing with the commercial coloring support EXCELLENCE grade 5 sold by the company L 'ORÉAL. This study was evaluated by a panel of 5 experts.

Claims (18)

An oxidizing composition for keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers, and more particularly the hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (a) at least one oxidizing agent chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide and the compounds that are capable of producing by hydrolysis of the hydrogen peroxide or mixtures thereof, (b) at least one copolymer based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and acrylic acid or based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, optionally hydroxylated, and (c) at least one polymer chosen from cross-linked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymers or amphiphilic copolymers consisting of at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid unit sequence, and at least one unit having a hydrophobic portion.  2 Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it comprises, (a) hydrogen peroxide, (b) at least one copolymer based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid or based on of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and (c) at least one crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 14>  3 Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that it comprises, (a) hydrogen peroxide, (b) at least one copolymer based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid or based on of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated, C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and (c) at least one amphiphilic copolymer consisting of at least one 2-acrylamido acid unit sequence; 2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, and at least one unit having a hydrophobic part.  4 Composition according to claim 2 or 3 characterized in that it comprises, as copolymer (b) a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid / acrylic acid copolymer.  5. Composition according to claim 2 or 3 characterized in that it comprises, as copolymer (b) a 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.  6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises, as copolymer (b), the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and as the amphiphilic copolymer (c) the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid / cetearyl ethoxyl methacrylate copolymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 15>  7 Composition according to one of claims 2,4 and 5, characterized in that the homopolymer (c) comprises, distributed randomly: -from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) next :

 (1) wherein X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, preferably ammonium, at most 10 mol% of the cations may be H + protons; from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.  8 Composition according to one of claims 3 to 6 characterized in that the amphiphilic copolymers have a molecular weight by weight ranging from 20,000 to 10,000,000, preferably from 50,000 to 8,000,000, more particularly from 100,000 to 7,000,000. 000 000.  Composition according to one of Claims 3 to 6 and 8, characterized in that the amphiphilic copolymers comprise at least one block of hydrophobic monomers chosen from hydrophobic monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation and comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 6 to 50 atoms. carbon, preferably from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. <Desc / Clms Page number 16>  Composition according to one of Claims 3 to 6,8 and 9, characterized in that the hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation is chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (2) below:

 (2) wherein R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical; Y is 0 or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms; is a number of moles of alkylene oxide ranging from 0 to 100.  Process for the oxidation dyeing of human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair using (i) a dyeing composition comprising, in a medium which is suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, at least one oxidation dye precursor and ii) the oxidizing composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.  12 dyeing process according to claim 11 wherein (i) mixing, at the time of use, the dye composition with the oxidizing composition, (ii) the resulting mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers <Desc / Clms Page number 17>  (iii) allowed to stand for about 3 to 50 minutes, preferably about 5 to 30 minutes, (iv) followed by rinsing, washing with shampoo, rinsing and finally drying.  13 dyeing process according to claim 12 wherein is applied sequentially the dye composition and the oxidizing composition, with or without intermediate rinsing.  Process for the treatment of human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair, with a view to obtaining a permanent deformation of the latter, in particular in the form of permed hair, this process comprising the following steps: (i) a reducing composition is applied on the keratinous material to be treated, the keratin fiber being put under mechanical tension before, during or after said application, (ii) the keratinous fiber is optionally rinsed (iii) the oxidizing composition as defined in any one of the claims of 1 at 10, is applied to the optionally rinsed keratinous fiber (iv) the fiber is then rinsed Process for bleaching or pickling human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair, comprising the following steps: i) applying the oxidizing composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10 to the keratinous fiber, ii) the treated fiber is then rinsed. <Desc / Clms Page number 18>  16 A device with 2 compartments for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair, characterized in that a first compartment contains the coloring composition comprising in a support suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, at least a precursor of oxidation dyes, and a second compartment contains an oxidizing composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.  Device with 2 compartments for the permanent deformation of keratinous fibers, in particular of human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair, characterized in that a first compartment contains a composition containing at least one reducing agent suitable for the permanent deformation of the keratinous fibers and that a second compartment contains an oxidizing composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.  18 Device with 2 compartments for the bleaching of keratinous fibers, in particular of human keratinous fibers and more particularly the hair, characterized in that a first compartment contains a powder containing at least one persalt, and a second compartment contains a composition oxidizing agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.