FR2673373A1 - COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKEUP COMPRISING FATTY ACID-BASIC AMINO ACID ASSOCIATIONS FOR FIXING WATER-SOLUBLE COLORING MATERIALS TO THE SKIN. - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition used for make-up or make-up removal contains, as active agent helping fix the colourings, 2 to 25 % by weight of a compound produced by associating a saturated or unsaturated C14 to C22 fatty acid either with a basic amino acid without water elimination or with a biological base with water elimination. This composition may be either a make-up cosmetic giving much improved fixation of colouring agents to the skin, or may be a make-up removal cosmetic for cleaning a skin surface treated with said make-up cosmetic, in order to remove the colouring agents.

Description

It is known that the fixing of coloring matters contained in make-up products, in particular at the level of the lips, poses a certain number of problems: difficulties in maintaining the coloration, or unpleasant action of drying or tightening of the yeasts.

 Until now, to fix and dissolve particular water-soluble coloring matters, such as brominated derivatives of fluorescein, we had recourse to different polyalcohols, like glycols. Now the fixing power of these dyes depends on the existing relationship between glycols and fatty substances generally used in the making of red sticks or other makeup products such as masacara for example. The increase in glycols improves the fixation of dyes, but can cause incompatibilities with other fatty substances: exudation, marbling etc.

 ..so . as well as tightness and dryness of the niuqueuses.

However, it was unexpectedly found that basic amino acids such as lysine or arginine, combined with fatty acids, were better solvents for bromofluoresceins than glycols, without having the disadvantages. That moreover, their dyeing activity on the skin and more particularly at the level of the sèvres is very clearly superior to that of the slYcols, this latter still being manifested, 24 hours after applicati.on.

The present invention is characterized in that it makes it possible to obtain make-up products by dissolving dyestuffs specific for this use, by virtue of the fatty acid salts of lysine or arsinine corresponding to the following structures:

In which R represents a saturated, unsaturated, branched fatty radical or a hydroxyl function> comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms,
R2 representing the guanidyle fraction of arginine or a hydrocarbon chain of lysine or ariginine,
The dissolution of bromofluoresceins in such salts of basic amino acids leads to a very strong and lasting fixation of the coloring matter on the skin, never achieved until now as well as a significant improvement in the emollient effect.

To make, by way of example, cosmetic products intended for making up the lips, the procedure will be as follows:
Bromofluoresceins are dissolved in a water bath at a rate of 5 to 20% either in lysine or arginine oleate, in ri ci nol lysine or dtarginine oleate, or, depending on the desired emollient level, in variable mixtures of the two salt s. A coloring mass is obtained which will be introduced into a medium consisting of variable fatty substances generally used in the preparation of makeup products containing pigments.

By way of nonlimiting examples of makeup compositions, there is produced, according to the invention, in the case of the coloring of the lips, a base known as tilting base, depending on the nature of the arm-amino acid constituents; indelible bases: example 1 Lysine oleate ....., .. K0
Dibromofluorescein ..... 20
Example 2 Lysine Ricinoleate ... 90
Tetrabromofluorescein..10
Example 3 Arginine oleate ....... 80
Dibromofluorescein ..... 20
Example 4 Arginine Ricinoletate, 85
Tetrabromofluorescein..15
Composition of indelible lipstick:
An oily base is produced, with or without pigments corresponding, by way of nonlimiting example, to the following formula:
Oleic alcohol ............................... 0.100
Beeswax .............................. 34,050
Polyoxyethylene glycol stearate ............ 7,130
Carnauba wax ............................. 4,660
Propylene glycol myristate ................. 9,200
Vaseline oil ............................ 16,300
Castor oil ............................... 4,200
Depending on the nuances sought, for example at 800 g of this fatty base, pigmented or not, we will add at a temperature between 600 and 80,200 g of one of the indelible bases of the examples given. This will thus give a product for making up the lips. whose coloring is maintained for 24 hours.

Claims (3)

 i-Cosmetic compositions for make-up characterized in that the water-soluble dyes such as bromofluoresceins are fixed on the skin and in particular on the lips by the fact of the presence in these conipositions of associations of fatty acids with basic amino acids. like lysine or arginine. 2-Makeup compositions according to claim 1 characterized in that these aci desgras-aci associations of born friends.  in which R1 represents a branched or hydroxylated saturated unsaturated fatty radical comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms R2 representing the guanidyl fraction of origin or a non-hydrocarbon chai of lysine or arginine.

basic correspond to the following structures:  3-Makeup compositions according to claims 1 and 2 characterized in that the water-soluble dyes such as bromofluoresceins are easily dissolved in fatty acid-arginine or lysine associations, such as oleate or lysine or arginine ricinoleate or their mixture endowed with a high emollient power, to dissolve these coloring matters and fix them intensively on the skin and more particularly on the lips.