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FR2665175A1 - Epidermal equivalent, process for obtaining it, and its use - Google Patents

Epidermal equivalent, process for obtaining it, and its use Download PDF

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FR2665175A1
FR2665175A1 FR9009871A FR9009871A FR2665175A1 FR 2665175 A1 FR2665175 A1 FR 2665175A1 FR 9009871 A FR9009871 A FR 9009871A FR 9009871 A FR9009871 A FR 9009871A FR 2665175 A1 FR2665175 A1 FR 2665175A1
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Abstract

Process for obtaining an epidermal equivalent in a defined medium, the corresponding epidermal equivalent, and its use for pharmaceutical and cosmetics tests. According to the process, cells isolated from a sample of human epidermis (predominantly keratinocytes) are cultured in a chemically defined medium: immediately after their isolation, or else after at least one passage of a conventional monolayer culture, the cells are deposited on substrates formed by chemically inert filters which are covered or otherwise with gels or molecules which promote cell attachment, and the cells are cultured in a defined medium until confluence. The cultures are then exposed to the air, the defined culture medium reaching the cells only through the substrate.

Description

ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUE:
LES PEAUX RECONSTITUEES IN VITRO
Afin de pouvoir reproduire in vitro toutes les caractéristiques et étapes de la différenciation épidermique terminale, les conditions de culture doivent se rapprocher le plus possible de ltenvironnement naturel de ltépiderme.
STATE OF THE ART:
SKIN RECONSTITUTED IN VITRO
In order to be able to reproduce in vitro all the characteristics and stages of terminal epidermal differentiation, the culture conditions must be as close as possible to the natural environment of the epidermis.

Par conséquent, après confluence, les cultures doivent être exposées à l'air et le milieu nutritif doit traverser le substrat pour parvenir aux cellules prolifératives de la première couche. Plusieurs systèmes de culture comprennent l'utilisation de substrats dermiques ou pseudodermiques, tandis que d'autres se contentent de substrat constitués par des filtres chimiquement inertes, recouverts ou non d'une matrice extracellulaire pouvant favoriser l'attachement cellulaire.Therefore, after confluence, the cultures must be exposed to air and the nutrient medium must pass through the substrate to reach the proliferative cells of the first layer. Several culture systems include the use of dermal or pseudodermal substrates, while others are satisfied with substrate constituted by chemically inert filters, covered or not with an extracellular matrix which can promote cell attachment.

Dans ces systèmes, on obtient la formation d'un vrai stratum corneum, c'est à dire une différenciation épidermique apparemment complète avec présence de toutes les couches cellulaires successives caractéristiques, et l'expression des marqueurs biochimiques essentiels. In these systems, the formation of a true stratum corneum is obtained, that is to say an apparently complete epidermal differentiation with the presence of all the successive characteristic cellular layers, and the expression of essential biochemical markers.

a)Les cultures de kératinocytes normaux sur un derme désepidermise
Le système de culture sur derme désépidermisé présente l'avantage de garder une membrane basale intacte comme surface d'attachement des kératinocytes tout en éliminant les interférences dues aux fibroblastes du derme, puisque ces derniers sont "tués" par congélations successives (Régnier et coll., 1981; Pruniéras et coll., 1983). Après exposition à l'air, l'expression de la kératine de 67 kD dans ce système démontre que la présence de fibroblastes vivants n'est pas nécessaire pour induire la différenciation terminale.Ceci n'exclut pas une influence des composants acellulaires du derme: l'action filtrante de ce substrat, c'est à dire la rétention de molécules à activité inhibitrice du type vitamine A du milieu de culture contenant du sérum, est évoquée (Régnier et coll., 1986). La différenciation terminale des kératinocytes humains normaux et transformés dans ce système a été décrite de façon plus détaillée (Régnier et coll., 1988; 1989), cependant ces résultats ne peuvent être imputés à une action stimulante de la différenciation du substrat dermique, puisque les cultures de contrôle non differenciées étaient des cultures immergées classiques: en effet, il est possible que l'exposition à l'air permette une différenciation épidermique complète; le vrai contrôle pour estimer l'influence du substrat aurait donc du être une culture sur substrat inerte, mais également exposée à l'air.
a) Normal keratinocyte cultures on a de-epidermis dermis
The culture system on de-epidermalized dermis has the advantage of keeping an intact basement membrane as attachment surface for keratinocytes while eliminating interference due to fibroblasts of the dermis, since the latter are "killed" by successive freezing (Régnier et al. , 1981; Pruniéras et al., 1983). After exposure to air, the expression of keratin 67 kD in this system demonstrates that the presence of living fibroblasts is not necessary to induce terminal differentiation. This does not exclude an influence of the acellular components of the dermis: the filtering action of this substrate, ie the retention of molecules with inhibitory activity of the vitamin A type from the culture medium containing serum, is mentioned (Régnier et al., 1986). The terminal differentiation of normal and transformed human keratinocytes in this system has been described in more detail (Régnier et al., 1988; 1989), however these results cannot be attributed to a stimulating action of dermal substrate differentiation, since the undifferentiated control cultures were conventional submerged cultures: indeed, it is possible that exposure to air allows complete epidermal differentiation; the real control to estimate the influence of the substrate should therefore have been a culture on an inert substrate, but also exposed to air.

b)Les cultures de kératinocytes normaux sur un équivalent de derme: "le système de Bell'1
L'équivalent de derme est préparé en incluant des fibroblastes vivants dans une matrice de collagène qui est modifiée et contractée par ces cellules résidentes (Bell et coll., 1979). Des kératinocytes de rat ou humains normaux sont cultivés à la surface de ces substrats qui sont alors exposés à l'air au moyen de grilles en acier inoxydable. Ces peaux reconstituées ont été greffées avec succès sur des rats (Bell et coll., 1983). Ces peaux reconstruites, en présence de sérum dans le milieu, expriment tous les principaux marqueurs de la différenciation épidermique, mais leur localisation précise dans les différentes couches cellulaires ne correspond pas tout à fait à celle observée dans l'épiderme in vivo (Asselineau et coll., 1985).De plus, certains antigènes des cellules basales ne sont pas polarisés comme in vivo (Asselineau et coll., 1986a).
b) Normal keratinocyte cultures on a dermis equivalent: "the Bell'1 system
The dermis equivalent is prepared by including living fibroblasts in a collagen matrix which is modified and contracted by these resident cells (Bell et al., 1979). Normal rat or human keratinocytes are cultured on the surface of these substrates which are then exposed to the air by means of stainless steel grids. These reconstituted skins were successfully grafted onto rats (Bell et al., 1983). These reconstructed skins, in the presence of serum in the medium, express all the main markers of epidermal differentiation, but their precise location in the different cell layers does not entirely correspond to that observed in the epidermis in vivo (Asselineau et al. ., 1985) .In addition, some basal cell antigens are not polarized as in vivo (Asselineau et al., 1986a).

Récemment le système a été perfectionné en ajustant la concentration en acide rétinoïque à 10 ' M, grâce à l'utilisation d'un sérum délipidisé: l'expression des différents marqueurs ressemble alors fortement à la situation normale in vivo = orthokeratose (Asselineau et coll., 1989).Recently the system has been improved by adjusting the concentration of retinoic acid to 10 'M, thanks to the use of a delipidized serum: the expression of the different markers then strongly resembles the normal situation in vivo = orthokeratosis (Asselineau et al. ., 1989).

Le même substrat de derme-équivalent a servi pour l'obtention, à partir de follicules de cheveux humains exposé à l'interface air-liquide, d'un épiderme in vitro présentant tous les aspects de la différenciation épidermique (Lenoir et coll., 1988). Ce travail est en accord avec l'observation courante que les racines des poils qui subsistent dans une plaie après un traumatisme sont capables de régénérer un épiderme interfolliculaire normalement différencié. D'autres chercheurs cultivent des kératinocytes sur ces memes lattices de Bell, mais en incorporant une biopsie de peau humaine (Coulomb et coll., 1986; 1989). The same dermis-equivalent substrate was used to obtain, from human hair follicles exposed to the air-liquid interface, an epidermis in vitro having all the aspects of epidermal differentiation (Lenoir et al., 1988). This work is in agreement with the current observation that the hair roots which remain in a wound after a trauma are capable of regenerating a normally differentiated interfollicular epidermis. Other researchers cultivate keratinocytes on these same Bell lattices, but by incorporating a biopsy of human skin (Coulomb et al., 1986; 1989).

c)Autres systèmes
Ils consistent à inoculer des cellules épidermiques de souris ou de rat sur des films ou gels de collagène, des filtres de nylon ou de nitrocellulose couverts de collagène ou d'équivalent de membrane basale déposé par des cellules endothéliales de cornée de boeuf, puis d'exposer ces cultures à l'air pour 14 à 21, ou même 65 jours (Fusenig et coll., 1983; Bernstam et coll., 1986; Vaughan et coll., 1986; Lillie et colt., 1980; 1988).
c) Other systems
They consist of inoculating mouse or rat epidermal cells on collagen films or gels, nylon or nitrocellulose filters covered with collagen or equivalent of the basement membrane deposited by endothelial cells from the cornea of the ox, then from expose these crops to air for 14 to 21, or even 65 days (Fusenig et al., 1983; Bernstam et al., 1986; Vaughan et al., 1986; Lillie et colt., 1980; 1988).

Un des points communs de tous ces systèmes de culture épidermique tridimensionnelle est ltexposition à l'air, qui semble essentielle pour la formation d'une couche cornée in vitro; mais surtout toutes ces expériences ont été réalisées en présence de sérum dans le milieu de culture, estimé nécessaire pour la croissance et la différenciation complète. Or, pour pouvoir significativement évaluer si et comment les composants du derme influencent la prolifération et la différenciation épidermiques, le système de culture nécessaire comprend un substrat:ïnerte chimiquement sans fibroblastes ni collagène; de même pour cerner l'influence de facteurs sériques (qui, in vivo, migreraient à travers la membrane basale), l'emploi d'un milieu de culture chimiquement défini devient un outil de recherche indispensable.Dans de telles conditions de culture minimales (ni facteurs dermiques, ni sériques), l'obtention d'un épiderme viable et de surcroit bien différencié était considérée comme improbable, les kératinocytes étant supposés ne pas se suffire à eux-mêmes, ni pour la synthèse d'une membrane basale (Bohnert et coll., 1986), ni pour leur différenciation terminale complète (Fusenig et coll., 1983;
Lillie et coll., 1980;1988).
One of the common points of all these three-dimensional epidermal culture systems is exposure to air, which seems essential for the formation of a stratum corneum in vitro; but above all all these experiments were carried out in the presence of serum in the culture medium, considered necessary for growth and complete differentiation. However, to be able to significantly assess if and how the components of the dermis influence epidermal proliferation and differentiation, the necessary culture system comprises a substrate: chemically inert without fibroblasts or collagen; Similarly, to determine the influence of serum factors (which, in vivo, migrate through the basement membrane), the use of a chemically defined culture medium becomes an essential research tool. In such minimal culture conditions ( neither dermal nor serum factors), obtaining a viable and moreover well-differentiated epidermis was considered improbable, the keratinocytes being assumed not to be self-sufficient, nor for the synthesis of a basement membrane (Bohnert et al., 1986), nor for their complete terminal differentiation (Fusenig et al., 1983;
Lillie et al., 1980; 1988).

La plupart des systèmes de peaux reconstitués ont été développés soit pour produire des greffons de peau totale, soit pour établir des modèles de la différenciation épidermique terminale complète. Naturellement le derme avait été préssenti comme substrat in vitro idéal (Pruniéras et coll., 1983). Les matrices dermiques ou pseudo-dermiques permettaient en plus d'exposer facilement les cultures épidermiques à l'air (Bell et coll., 1983; Régnier et coll., 1984). Le milieu de culture arrivait à travers le substrat perméable. De toutes ces expériences, les chercheurs ont cru pouvoir déduire la nécessité d'un substrat mésenchymateux et de sérum pour pouvoir obtenir une différenciation épidermique complète in vitro (Bernfield & Banerjee, 1982;
Holbrook & Hennings, 1983; Bohnert et coll., 1986).
Most of the reconstituted skin systems have been developed either to produce whole skin grafts or to establish models of complete terminal epidermal differentiation. Naturally, the dermis had been presented as an ideal in vitro substrate (Pruniéras et al., 1983). Dermal or pseudo-dermal matrices also made it possible to easily expose epidermal cultures to the air (Bell et al., 1983; Régnier et al., 1984). The culture medium arrived through the permeable substrate. From all these experiments, the researchers believed they could deduce the need for a mesenchymal substrate and serum to be able to obtain complete epidermal differentiation in vitro (Bernfield & Banerjee, 1982;
Holbrook & Hennings, 1983; Bohnert et al., 1986).

L'INVENTION:
Différenciation épidermique terminale complète en culture en absence de facteurs dermiques et sériques
Différenciation épidermique terminale de kératinocytes humains cultivés en milieu chimiquement défini sur des substrats constitués par des filtres inertes à l'interface air-liquide
Un épithélium totalement différencié ayant les caractéristiques de l'épiderme a été obtenu in vitro en cultivant des kératinocytes humains normaux (KHN) dans un milieu chimiquement défini sur des substrats de filtres inertes à l'interface air-liquide pendant 14 jours.Des coupes verticales doublement colorées et des études d'immunofluorescence indirecte ont montré la stratification et ltexpression correctes de marqueurs protéiques de la différenciation; l'analyse par microscopie électronique montre la présence de desmosomes, de granules de kératohyaline, de corps lamellaires extrudant leur contenu lipidique et la formation d'un stratum corneum de dix couches. De plus, tous les lipides typiques de l'épiderme humain stratifié étaient présents dans ces cultures, notamment les céramides, qui sont probablement responsables de la relative imperméabilité du stratum corneum. Dans nos conditions de milieu l'utilisation de dermes désépidermisés comme substrat ne permit pas d'obtenir une différenciation des kératinocytes meilleure que celle obtenue sur des filtres d'acetate de cellulose ou de polycarbonate.
THE INVENTION:
Complete terminal epidermal differentiation in culture in the absence of dermal and serum factors
Terminal epidermal differentiation of human keratinocytes cultured in a chemically defined medium on substrates constituted by inert filters at the air-liquid interface
A fully differentiated epithelium having the characteristics of the epidermis was obtained in vitro by culturing normal human keratinocytes (KHN) in a chemically defined medium on inert filter substrates at the air-liquid interface for 14 days. Vertical sections doubly stained and indirect immunofluorescence studies have shown correct stratification and expression of protein markers of differentiation; analysis by electron microscopy shows the presence of desmosomes, keratohyaline granules, lamellar bodies extruding their lipid content and the formation of a ten-layer stratum corneum. In addition, all the lipids typical of the stratified human epidermis were present in these cultures, in particular ceramides, which are probably responsible for the relative impermeability of the stratum corneum. Under our environmental conditions, the use of de-epidermalized dermes as a substrate did not make it possible to obtain a differentiation of the keratinocytes better than that obtained on filters of cellulose acetate or polycarbonate.

L'obtention d'un épiderme bien différencié in vitro, cultivé dans des conditions simples et définies, devrait permettre la mise au point d'un système standard pour. Obtaining a well differentiated epidermis in vitro, cultivated under simple and defined conditions, should allow the development of a standard system for.

l'étude de la différenciation, de la réépidermisation, de la cytotoxicité kératinocytaire, de la perméation épidermique ainsi que du passage transépidermique de drogues.the study of differentiation, reepidermization, keratinocyte cytotoxicity, epidermal permeation as well as transepidermal drug passage.

Les cultures décrites ici montrent clairement que les kératinocytes humains normaux sont capables de produire un épiderme complètement différencié en absence totale de facteurs mésenchymateux. De plus, l'absence de membrane basale sur le substrat n'a aucune influence sur la qualité de l'expression des différents marqueurs de la membrane basale. The cultures described here clearly show that normal human keratinocytes are capable of producing a completely differentiated epidermis in the total absence of mesenchymal factors. In addition, the absence of basement membrane on the substrate has no influence on the quality of expression of the various markers of the basement membrane.

Le fait que de telles cultures soient réalisables ne permet pas de déduire que l'épiderme humain n'a besoin ni de facteurs plasmatiques, ni d'apport dermique pour vivre et s'organiser. Mais l'influence de tels facteurs, actifs à des concentration très basses (pM ou nM), ne pourra être clairement déterminée qu'à l'aide de l'utilisation d'un tel système chimiquement défini. The fact that such cultures are feasible does not make it possible to deduce that the human epidermis needs neither plasma factors, nor dermal supply to live and organize. However, the influence of such factors, active at very low concentrations (pM or nM), can only be clearly determined using the use of such a chemically defined system.

(1) Pour élucider les mécanismes de régulation de la différenciation épidermique, (2) pour développer un modele expérimental de l'épiderme, utilisable pour des tests de cytotoxicité, de cytocompatibilité et (3) de perméabilité aux produits pharmaceutiques ou cosmétiques, il semble clair qu'un système défini et "minimum" de peau reconstruite capable d'évoluer vers la différenciation terminale est très utile sinon indispensable. De plus, ce système pourra aider comprendre la régulation de la différenciation et de l'homéostasie épidermiques humaines.  (1) To elucidate the mechanisms of regulation of epidermal differentiation, (2) to develop an experimental model of the epidermis, usable for tests of cytotoxicity, cytocompatibility and (3) permeability to pharmaceutical or cosmetic products, it seems It is clear that a defined and "minimum" system of reconstructed skin capable of evolving towards terminal differentiation is very useful if not essential. In addition, this system may help understand the regulation of human epidermal differentiation and homeostasis.

De plus, l'élimination du sérum permet de concevoir et d'interprèter des expériences difficiles ou impossibles à mettre en oeuvre en sa présence. Dans un milieu défini il est possible d'étudier l'effet d'hormones ou d'agents pharmacologiques ou cosmétiques en absence de composants non identifiés qui peuvent lier, inactiver, antagoniser ou mimer l'action de l'agent étudié. De même des expériences concernant le relargage de produits cellulaires, tels les facteurs sécrétés par des lignées de cellules différenciées, sont beaucoup plus faciles à réaliser et à interprèter en absence de protéines sériques.  In addition, eliminating the serum makes it possible to design and interpret experiments that are difficult or impossible to carry out in its presence. In a defined medium it is possible to study the effect of hormones or pharmacological or cosmetic agents in the absence of unidentified components which can bind, inactivate, antagonize or mimic the action of the agent studied. Likewise, experiments concerning the release of cellular products, such as the factors secreted by differentiated cell lines, are much easier to carry out and to interpret in the absence of serum proteins.

METHODE 1: Les méthodes de culture des cellules épidermiques
en milieu défini sur filtres inertes
Des suspensions cellulaires contenant majoritairement des kératinocytes humains normaux sont obtenues par la méthode de séparation derme/épiderme dans 0.25 % de trypsine (Green et coll.,1979) à partir d'échantillons de peau humaine. Les cultures primaires préliminaires facultatives peuvent être effectuées selon la méthode de Green (Rheinwald & Green, 1975,1977), oubien directement dans un milieu défini, tel que le MCDB 153 (Boyce,1983; Tsao,1982) par exemple.
METHOD 1: Methods of culturing epidermal cells
in defined medium on inert filters
Cell suspensions mainly containing normal human keratinocytes are obtained by the dermis / epidermis separation method in 0.25% of trypsin (Green et al., 1979) from samples of human skin. The optional preliminary primary cultures can be carried out according to the Green method (Rheinwald & Green, 1975, 1977), or else directly in a defined medium, such as MCDB 153 (Boyce, 1983; Tsao, 1982) for example.

Avant d'atteindre la confluence, les cellules de ces cultures sont récoltées grâce à une trypsination douce et comptées. Plusieurs cycles de subculture peuvent ainsi être réalisés afin d'augmenter le nombre total de cellules disponibles pour la culture finale qui est exposée à l'air.Before reaching confluence, the cells of these cultures are harvested using gentle trypsinization and counted. Several subculture cycles can thus be carried out in order to increase the total number of cells available for the final culture which is exposed to air.

A partir d'une suspension cellulaire obtenue directement d'un échantillon de peau, ou provenant de subcultures, l'ensemencement des substrats choisis se fait à une densité cellulaire variant de 104 à 106 cellules par cm2. Les substrats utilisés peuvent être des filtres classiques en acetate de cellulose (Millipore PIHA), en polycarbonate (Nucleopore Nucell ou Costar Transwell), en nylon, en silicone ou des polymères naturels tels le collagène, l'élastine, l'agarose etc.. Ces substrats peuvent être recouverts, avant l'ensemencement par les cellules par des solutions comprenant des molécules ou facteurs favorisant ou non l'attachement et /ou la croissance cellulaire.Le substrat utilisé doit surtout être perméable aux molécules nutritives du milieu défini, pour qu'elles puissent le traverser pour atteindre les cellules de la première couche cellulaire lors de l'exposition à l'air des cultures.From a cell suspension obtained directly from a skin sample, or from subcultures, the selected substrates are sown at a cell density varying from 104 to 106 cells per cm2. The substrates used can be conventional filters made of cellulose acetate (Millipore PIHA), polycarbonate (Nucleopore Nucell or Costar Transwell), nylon, silicone or natural polymers such as collagen, elastin, agarose, etc. These substrates can be covered, before sowing by the cells, with solutions comprising molecules or factors promoting or not promoting cell attachment and / or growth. The substrate used must above all be permeable to the nutritive molecules of the defined medium, so that 'they can cross it to reach the cells of the first cell layer when exposed to crop air.

L'inoculum se fait dans du milieu défini (DMEM, Ham F-12,
MCDB 153, autres milieux de synthese) susceptible de favoriser la croissance cellulaire par rapport à la différenciation. Lorsque les cultures atteignent la confluence (après 1 à 5 jours, selon la densité de l'inoculum et la prolifération des cellules), leur substrat respectif est hissé, à l'aide de pinces fines et stériles, sur un support stérile permettant l'accès du milieu de culture à toute la face inférieure du substrat, de façon à ce que les cultures soient nourries, par en dessous et à travers le substrat, par le milieu de culture défini qui est choisi pour favoriser la différenciation épidermique et pour limiter la proliferation des cellules à celle observée pendant la régénérescence d'un épiderme humain in vivo.
The inoculum is done in defined medium (DMEM, Ham F-12,
MCDB 153, other synthesis media) capable of promoting cell growth over differentiation. When the cultures reach confluence (after 1 to 5 days, depending on the density of the inoculum and the proliferation of cells), their respective substrate is hoisted, using fine and sterile forceps, on a sterile support allowing the access of the culture medium to the entire underside of the substrate, so that the cultures are fed, from below and through the substrate, by the defined culture medium which is chosen to promote epidermal differentiation and to limit the proliferation of cells to that observed during the regeneration of a human epidermis in vivo.

Ainsi le milieu défini MCDB 153 est alors à haute concentration de calcium (environ 1.2 mM), le milieu F-12 de
Ham ne contient alors plus aucun facteur de croissance, tandis que les additifs nécessaires pour permettre la formation correcte d'une couche cornée compacte sont ajoutés au milieu choisi (lipides, stéroïdes, vitamines). Le couverclé de chaque boite de culture doit être pose de façon à éviter que les gouttes provenant de la condensation du milieu de culture ne retombent sur les couches cornées en formation, ce qui induirait une hydratation excessive des lipides extracellulaires, dont certains sont responsable de la relative imperméabilité de l'épiderme (Madison, 1988).
Thus the medium defined MCDB 153 is then with a high concentration of calcium (approximately 1.2 mM), the medium F-12 of
Ham then no longer contains any growth factor, while the additives necessary to allow the correct formation of a compact horny layer are added to the chosen medium (lipids, steroids, vitamins). The cover of each culture dish must be placed in such a way as to prevent drops from the condensation of the culture medium from falling on the horny layers in formation, which would induce excessive hydration of the extracellular lipids, some of which are responsible for the relative impermeability of the epidermis (Madison, 1988).

Après incubation dans une atmosphère non saturée d'humidité, entre 40 et 95 % d'humidité relative, de préférence autour de 60 %, pendant au moins une semaine, avec des changements du milieu défini tous les trois jours, les coupes transversales de cultures fixées dans la paraffine ou simplement congelées révèlent une architecture ressemblant fortement à celle d'un épiderme humain in vivo, avec expression de tous les marqueurs de différenciation épidermique classiques, formation d'une couche cornée compacte (au moins dix couches cellulaires), synthese des lipides typiques du stratum corneum, mais avec la particularité d'avoir une assise basale suivant les contours du substrat, c'est à dire rectiligne. voir figures 1, 2 et 3.After incubation in an unsaturated humidity atmosphere, between 40 and 95% relative humidity, preferably around 60%, for at least one week, with changes in the defined medium every three days, the cross sections of cultures fixed in paraffin or simply frozen reveal an architecture strongly resembling that of a human epidermis in vivo, with expression of all the classic epidermal differentiation markers, formation of a compact horny layer (at least ten cell layers), synthesis of typical lipids of the stratum corneum, but with the particularity of having a basal base following the contours of the substrate, that is to say rectilinear. see figures 1, 2 and 3.

METHODE 2: Analyse de la morphologie et des compositions
lipidique et protéique des épithéliums formés
en culture: Tests de cytocompatibilité
Les cultures décrites plus haut sont utilisées pour tester les effets d'une exposition d'un produit médical, pharmaceutique ou cosmétique à leur surface sur l'étant des couches cornées, de l'architecture globale des cultures et de la morphologie des cellules. Pour cela des techniques classiques de histologie et de microscopie électronique sont mises en oeuvre (Rosdy, 1990a; Asselineau, 1989;
Madison,1988; Régnier, 1988). De même pour la préparation d'extraits protéiques ou lipidiques, des techniques classiques sont employées (Rosdy, 1986,1988; Asselineau, 1989; Ponec,1989; Lampe, 1983).Les protéines sont ensuite visualisées par immunoélectrophorese ou simplement par coloration de gels d'électrophorèse, tandis que les lipides typiques des épidermes bien différenciés sont détectés par chromatographie semi-quantitative bidimensionelle sur couche mince (Brod, 1987; Ponec, 1989).
METHOD 2: Analysis of the morphology and the compositions
lipid and protein of the epithelia formed
in culture: Cytocompatibility tests
The cultures described above are used to test the effects of exposure of a medical, pharmaceutical or cosmetic product to their surface on the being of the horny layers, of the overall architecture of the cultures and of the morphology of the cells. For this, classical histology and electron microscopy techniques are used (Rosdy, 1990a; Asselineau, 1989;
Madison, 1988; Régnier, 1988). Similarly for the preparation of protein or lipid extracts, conventional techniques are used (Rosdy, 1986, 1988; Asselineau, 1989; Ponec, 1989; Lampe, 1983). The proteins are then visualized by immunoelectrophoresis or simply by staining of gels electrophoresis, while the lipids typical of well-differentiated epidermis are detected by semi-quantitative two-dimensional thin layer chromatography (Brod, 1987; Ponec, 1989).

Les résultats sont bien entendu comparés avec ceux obtenus avec des cultures témoins (positifs et négatifs) parallèles et au moins deux cultures indépendantes sont effectuées par échantillon à tester. The results are of course compared with those obtained with parallel control cultures (positive and negative) and at least two independent cultures are carried out per sample to be tested.

METHODE 3: Analyse des molécules relarguées dans le milieu
défini par les cellules des équivalents
d'épiderme: tests de cytocompatibilité
Le fait d'utiliser un milieu chimiquement défini pour obtenir les équivalents d'épiderme décrits plus haut permet de mesurer un paramètre supplémentaire de grande importance: le relargage de molécules (en quantités faibles) synthétisées par les cellules de l'équivalent d'épiderme; en effet, la présence de sérum dans les systèmes de culture de peaux reconstruites empêchait de mesurer ce type de paramètre. Les cellules épidermiques et plus précisément les kératinocytes synthétisent in vivo et in vitro une large gamme de molécules et facteurs ayant des fonctions de régulation biologique importantes (Akhurst, 1988; Bikle,1986;
Coffey, 1987; Miyazaki,1989; Nickoloff,1989).
METHOD 3: Analysis of molecules released into the environment
defined by equivalent cells
epidermis: cytocompatibility tests
The fact of using a chemically defined medium to obtain the epidermis equivalents described above makes it possible to measure an additional parameter of great importance: the release of molecules (in small quantities) synthesized by the cells of the epidermis equivalent; indeed, the presence of serum in the culture systems of reconstructed skins prevented this type of parameter from being measured. Epidermal cells and more specifically keratinocytes synthesize in vivo and in vitro a wide range of molecules and factors having important biological regulatory functions (Akhurst, 1988; Bikle, 1986;
Coffey, 1987; Miyazaki, 1989; Nickoloff, 1989).

Les techniques analytiques utilisées sont très variées, car elles dépendent étroitement du type de molécules que l'on veut détecter, ou que l'on pense pouvoir détecter: la présence (dans le milieu défini) de facteurs peut être mise en évidence par les techniques maintenant classiques de
HPLC, de chromatographie sur couche mince, d'électrophorèse rapide, d'immunoélectrophorese (Westernblot), d'immunofluorescence indirecte, par des tests indirects d'une fonction biologique connue de la molécule (test de croissance sur culture de fibroblastes par exemple). Ces tests de relargage de molécules par un équivalent d'épiderme sont relativement complexes à effectuer, mais les renseignements obtenus sur les mécanismes de toxicité cellulaire sont très précieux et intéressant.Leur obtention n' est possible uniquement grâce à l'utilisation d'un milieu chimiquement défini pendant toute la durée des cultures.
The analytical techniques used are very varied, because they closely depend on the type of molecules that we want to detect, or that we think we can detect: the presence (in the defined medium) of factors can be demonstrated by the techniques now classics of
HPLC, thin layer chromatography, rapid electrophoresis, immunoelectrophoresis (Westernblot), indirect immunofluorescence, by indirect tests of a known biological function of the molecule (growth test on fibroblast culture for example). These tests for the release of molecules by an epidermis equivalent are relatively complex to perform, but the information obtained on the mechanisms of cellular toxicity is very precious and interesting. Their obtaining is only possible thanks to the use of a medium. chemically defined for the duration of the cultures.

LEGENDE DES FIGURES:
Figure 1: Culture de cellules épidermiques exposées à l'air
et en milieu défini sur filtre en acetate de
cellulose (Millipore PIHA)(A) et sur filtre en
polycarbonate (B) apres 14 jours d' incubation à
37"C à 60 * d'humidité.
LEGEND OF THE FIGURES:
Figure 1: Culture of epidermal cells exposed to air
and in defined medium on acetate filter
cellulose (Millipore PIHA) (A) and on filter
polycarbonate (B) after 14 days incubation at
37 "C at 60 * humidity.

Figure 2: idem, mais plus en détail. Noter la
différenciation épidermique complète et normale.
Figure 2: same, but in more detail. Note the
complete and normal epidermal differentiation.

Figure 3: Culture de cellules épidermiques exposées à l'air
et en milieu défini sur filtre en acetate de
cellulose (Millipore PIHA) après 14 jours d' incubation à
37"C à 60 % d'humidité. Marquage de coupes
verticales de cultures congelées à l'aide
d'anticorps monoclonaux reconnaissant les
marqueurs essentiels de la différenciation
épidermique: kératines K1 et K10 (A), filaggrine
(B), transglutaminase membranaire (C), et
involucrine, précurseur principal de l'enveloppe
cornée (D).
Figure 3: Culture of epidermal cells exposed to air
and in defined medium on acetate filter
cellulose (Millipore PIHA) after 14 days of incubation at
37 "C at 60% humidity. Marking of cuts
verticals of frozen cultures using
monoclonal antibodies recognizing
essential markers of differentiation
epidermal: keratins K1 and K10 (A), filaggrin
(B), membrane transglutaminase (C), and
involucrine, main precursor of the envelope
cornea (D).

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Claims (10)

au moins 5 jours. at least 5 days. e)on incube les cultures ainsi exposées à l'air-pendant  e) the cultures thus exposed to air are incubated (sans aucune composante inconnue), et (without any unknown components), and d)on utilise du milieu de culture chimiquement défini d) using chemically defined culture medium inférieure uniquement à travers le substrat, lower only through the substrate, le milieu parvienne aux cellules de la couche the medium reaches the layer cells l'interface air/milieu de culture, de façon à ce que the air / culture medium interface, so that après la confluence, on soulève le substrat à after the confluence, the substrate is raised to l'attachement cellulaire, cell attachment, ou non d'un dépot de molécules favorisant or not a deposit of molecules favoring substrat perméable et chimiquement inerte, recouvert permeable and chemically inert substrate, covered b)on ensemence ces cellules épidermiques humaines sur un b) these human epidermal cells are seeded on a échantillon d'épiderme humain, human epidermis sample, directement ou après au moins une subculture, d'un directly or after at least one subculture, of a a)on prépare une suspension de cellules provenant, a) a suspension of cells is prepared, dans lequel: in which: REVENDICATIONS: 1- Procédé d'obtention d'un équivalent d'épiderme humain,CLAIMS: 1- Process for obtaining an equivalent of human epidermis, 2- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le2- A method according to claim 1, characterized by fait que l'on utilise un milieu défini dont la that we use a defined medium whose concentration en calcium est supérieure à 1.15 mM. calcium concentration is greater than 1.15 mM. 3- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le3- A method according to claim 1, characterized by fait que l'on utilise un milieu défini ne contenant using a defined medium that does not contain aucun facteur de croissance peptidique.  no peptide growth factor. 4- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le4- A method according to claim 1, characterized by fait que l'on utilise comme substrat des filtres en the fact that filters are used as substrate acetate de cellulose, en polycarbonate, en silicone, en cellulose acetate, polycarbonate, silicone, nylon, en collagène ou en agarose. nylon, collagen or agarose. 5- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le5- Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fait que l'on place les cultures de cellules placing cell cultures épidermiques dans un incubateur qui a une atmosphère epidermal in an incubator that has an atmosphere contrôlée de 40 à 95 % d'humidité. controlled from 40 to 95% humidity. 6- Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé par le6- A method according to claim 1, characterized by fait que l'on place les cultures de cellules placing cell cultures épidermiques dans un incubateur qui a une atmosphère epidermal in an incubator that has an atmosphere contrôlée de 60 % (+/- 5 %) d'humidité. controlled by 60% (+/- 5%) humidity. 7- Equivalent d'épiderme, caractérisé par le fait qu'il est7- Equivalent to epidermis, characterized by the fact that it is obtenu par le procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à obtained by the method according to one of claims 1 to 6. 6. 8- Utilisation de l'équivalent d'épiderme selon la8- Use of the epidermis equivalent according to the revendication 7 pour des tests de cytotoxicité sur claim 7 for cytotoxicity tests on culture cellulaire. cellular culture. 9- Utilisation de l'équivalent d'épiderme selon la9- Use of the skin equivalent according to the revendication 7 pour tester la toxicité ou la qualité de claim 7 for testing the toxicity or quality of produits pharmaceutiques ou cosmétiques, ou d'un ou pharmaceutical or cosmetic products, or one or plusieurs de leurs ingrédients.  many of their ingredients. 10- Utilisation de l'équivalent d'épiderme selon la10- Use of the epidermis equivalent according to the revendication 7 pour mesurer la vitesse et/ou la qualité claim 7 for measuring speed and / or quality de la pénétration à travers l'épiderme de produits penetration through the epidermis of products pharmaceutiques ou cosmétiques, ou d'un ou plusieurs de pharmaceutical or cosmetic, or one or more of leurs ingrédients.  their ingredients.
FR9009871A 1990-07-27 1990-07-27 SKIN EQUIVALENT, ITS PROCESS FOR OBTAINING AND ITS USE. Expired - Lifetime FR2665175B1 (en)

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Cited By (11)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2689904A1 (en) * 1992-04-08 1993-10-15 Rosdy Martin Testing effect of stimulation, e.g. by UV radiation or chemical on tanning - using human epidermis reconstituted by cell culture
WO1995010600A1 (en) * 1993-10-08 1995-04-20 Martin Rosdy In vitro human epidermal sun-tanning test
FR2792728A1 (en) * 1999-04-20 2000-10-27 Oreal Evaluating effects of compounds on epidermal lipogenesis, useful e.g. for testing skin care products, uses in vitro skin equivalent
WO2001091817A2 (en) * 2000-06-02 2001-12-06 Cell-Lining-Gesellschaft Für Zellkultivierung Mbh Method for the determination of the confluence of a cell layer on porous biomaterials
EP1754513A2 (en) 2005-08-17 2007-02-21 L'oreal Use of 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid as a care agent for promoting the horny layer cohesion
EP1878790A1 (en) * 2006-07-13 2008-01-16 L'Oréal Epiderm equivalent, capable of pigmenting, obtained from matrix cells, method of preparation and use
WO2012059703A1 (en) 2010-11-05 2012-05-10 Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique (Cnrs) In vitro or ex vivo method for storing and/or keeping an epidermis alive
WO2012163974A1 (en) 2011-05-30 2012-12-06 L'oreal Reconstructed scalp model and process for screening active molecules
WO2018020016A1 (en) 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 L'oreal Skin equivalent with distinct juxtaposed dermal compartments
WO2019063731A1 (en) 2017-09-28 2019-04-04 L'oreal Molecular signatures of three sub-populations of dermal fibroblasts and dermal equivalent comprising one of these sub-populations
FR3111904A1 (en) 2020-06-30 2021-12-31 L'oreal Bio-ink for bioprinting a model of invaginated dermal-epidermal junction

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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M. ROSDY: "La différenciation des keratinocytes humains normaux et transformés en milieu défini. Application aux biomatériaux", Thèse présentée à la Faculté des Sciences et des Techniques de l'Université de Nice, soutenue le 3 juillet 1990 devant la Commission d'examenen *
THE JOURNAL OF DERMATOLOGICAL SCIENCE, vol. 1, no. 3, mai 1990, pages 173-181, Elsevier, Amsterdam, NL; L.I. BERNSTAM et al.: "Stratified cornified primary cultures of human keratinocytes grown on microporous membranes at the air-liquid interface" *
THE JOURNAL OF INVESTIGATIVE DERMATOLOGY, vol. 81, no. 1, supplement, juillet 1983, pages 331-401, Williams & Wilkins Co., Baltimore, MD, US; S.T. BOYCE et al.: "Calcium-regulated differentation of normal human epidermal kerratinocytes in chemically defined clonal culture and serum-free serial culture" *

Cited By (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2689904A1 (en) * 1992-04-08 1993-10-15 Rosdy Martin Testing effect of stimulation, e.g. by UV radiation or chemical on tanning - using human epidermis reconstituted by cell culture
WO1995010600A1 (en) * 1993-10-08 1995-04-20 Martin Rosdy In vitro human epidermal sun-tanning test
FR2792728A1 (en) * 1999-04-20 2000-10-27 Oreal Evaluating effects of compounds on epidermal lipogenesis, useful e.g. for testing skin care products, uses in vitro skin equivalent
WO2001091817A2 (en) * 2000-06-02 2001-12-06 Cell-Lining-Gesellschaft Für Zellkultivierung Mbh Method for the determination of the confluence of a cell layer on porous biomaterials
WO2001091817A3 (en) * 2000-06-02 2002-11-28 Cell Lining Ges Fuer Zellkulti Method for the determination of the confluence of a cell layer on porous biomaterials
US6946290B2 (en) 2000-06-02 2005-09-20 Vasotissue Technologies Gmbh Method for the determination of the confluence of a cell layer on porous biomaterials
EP1754513A2 (en) 2005-08-17 2007-02-21 L'oreal Use of 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid as a care agent for promoting the horny layer cohesion
EP1878790A1 (en) * 2006-07-13 2008-01-16 L'Oréal Epiderm equivalent, capable of pigmenting, obtained from matrix cells, method of preparation and use
FR2903702A1 (en) * 2006-07-13 2008-01-18 Oreal EQUIVALENT OF EPIDERM CAPABLE OF PIGMENTING OBTAINED FROM CELLS OF THE MATRIX, PROCESS FOR THEIR PREPARATION AND USE
US10039791B2 (en) 2006-07-13 2018-08-07 L'oreal Pigmentable epidermis equivalent prepared from matrix cells and methods for the production thereof
WO2012059703A1 (en) 2010-11-05 2012-05-10 Centre National De La Recherche Scientifique (Cnrs) In vitro or ex vivo method for storing and/or keeping an epidermis alive
WO2012163974A1 (en) 2011-05-30 2012-12-06 L'oreal Reconstructed scalp model and process for screening active molecules
WO2018020016A1 (en) 2016-07-29 2018-02-01 L'oreal Skin equivalent with distinct juxtaposed dermal compartments
WO2019063731A1 (en) 2017-09-28 2019-04-04 L'oreal Molecular signatures of three sub-populations of dermal fibroblasts and dermal equivalent comprising one of these sub-populations
FR3111904A1 (en) 2020-06-30 2021-12-31 L'oreal Bio-ink for bioprinting a model of invaginated dermal-epidermal junction

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