ES2333639B2 - HAIR AND LEATHER PROTECTIVE PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION. - Google Patents

Abstract

Protective composition of hair and leather scalp

The present invention relates to a protective composition of keratin fibers and scalp comprising: a soy extract, a Boswellia serreta extract, and a salicylic acid ester and a linear or branched C10-C15 alcohol, preferably tridecyl salicylate. The invention also relates to a formulation for the coloration of keratin fibers comprising said protective composition.

Description

Protective composition of hair and leather scalp

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a new protective composition of hair and scalp and to Coloring formulations that contain it.

Background of the invention

They are currently known in the state of the technique two types of hair dyes: direct dyes and oxidation dyes. Direct dyes contain colored molecules that bring color directly to the hair. They usually provide powerful and bright colors but have little resistance in the hair and are removed more or less quickly with the washes Oxidation dyes contain molecules colorless to react with each other in alkaline medium (pH = 10) and oxidizing give rise to new chemical species that are colored and they can add color to the hair. Under these conditions the color is keeps hair permanently resisting well washes, brushing, light etc. Oxidation dyes will generally mixed equally with an oxidizing agent, by example, a solution of hydrogen peroxide at 3-12%, so that a reaction of coupling between oxidation dyes that yields molecules that are colored. This mixture is applied directly over the hair and leave about 30 minutes of exposure so that The color develops correctly.

However, permanent coloring presents the major disadvantage that the highly alkaline and oxidizing medium It is aggressive for both keratin fibers and the scalp and even cause undesirable reactions in people very sensitive

Therefore they have developed in the state of Technique various cosmetic products hair protectors for alleviate the aggressive effects of oxidation dyes, which They are usually formulated in the form of shampoos, masks, conditioners, or balms that must be applied additional and subsequent to hair coloring. In this sense These products have the disadvantage that their use implies need to acquire an additional product in addition to the dye of oxidation to be applied after the coloring process thus extending said process. In general, these products do not protect hair and scalp completely satisfactory

Therefore there is a need in the state of technique of providing a protective composition of the hair and the alternative scalp that in addition to effective, reduce time of the coloring process and eliminate the need to use additional protective products.

In this sense, the inventors of the present invention have discovered a new protective composition that can be added to a conventional dye formulation providing additional protection for keratin fibers and scalp, during the coloring process itself. This reduces both the time of the coloring process and the number of products needed to apply. In addition, the new composition, comprising a soy extract, a Boswellia serrata extract and an ester derived from salicylic acid, advantageously provides an intensification of the color obtained, and the protection thereof against washing and solar radiation.

Description of the invention

In one aspect the invention thus relates to a hair and scalp protective composition comprising a soy extract, a Boswellia serrata extract and an ester derived from salicylic acid and a linear or branched C10-C15 alcohol. This composition, hereinafter protective composition of the invention, comprises in a particular embodiment:

3-0.03% by weight with respect to total weight of the soy extract composition,

5-0.05% by weight with respect to the total weight of the Boswellia serrata extract composition,

3-0.03% by weight with respect to total weight of the acid-derived ester composition salicylic and a linear C10-C15 alcohol or branched.

In another particular embodiment the composition comprises between 2-0.05% by weight with respect to the total weight of the soy extract composition, preferably 1-0.1%. In another particular embodiment the composition comprises between 3-0.1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the Boswellia serrata extract composition, preferably 2-0.15%. In another particular embodiment the composition comprises between 2-0.05% by weight with respect to the total weight of the ester composition derived from salicylic acid and a linear or branched C10-C15 alcohol preferably 1-0.1%.

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The soy extract useful for practicing the present invention comprises phospholipids, glycolipids, glycine, and sterols and can be obtained commercially (for example: Amisol® Trio, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, SA); Boswellia serrata extract it comprising Boswellia serrata gum in dipropylene glycol or isoesteraril alcohol and can be obtained commercially (for example Soothex ^ {TM}, Givaudan); and the ester derived from salicylic acid and a linear or branched C10-C15 alcohol may in principle be any ester derived, preferably tridecyl salicylate which can be obtained commercially (for example Cosmacol® from Sasol).

The protective composition of the invention is you can use to prepare a formulation for the coloring of keratin fibers, either directly colored or oxidation coloration, and depending on the color duration in the hair, both temporary, semi-permanent and permanent coloration. In this sense in another aspect the invention relates to the use of the protective composition of the invention in the preparation of a formulation for the coloration of keratin fibers.

Therefore in a further aspect the invention refers to a formulation for fiber coloring keratin which comprises the protective composition of the invention.

Said formulation for fiber coloring keratin, hereinafter formulation of the invention may be:

(i) a formulation called direct coloration which further comprises at least one direct dye;
or

(ii) a formulation called coloration of oxidation comprising at least one oxidation dye.

In a particular embodiment the formulation of The invention may contain mixtures of one or more dyes. direct and one or more oxidation dyes.

The direct coloring formulation can contain one or more conventional direct dyes, typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo compounds, anthraquinones or indophenols. The preferable direct dyes are known under international names or names commercials of HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9 and Acid Black 52 and also 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (beta-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (beta-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'ureidoethyl) -amino-nitrobenzene, acid 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, pyramic acid and salts thereof, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol,  acid 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic Y 2-Chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In accordance with the present invention also direct cationic dyes can be used, preferably the following:

to)

cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

b)

aromatic systems replaced by a N quaternary group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and

C)

dyes containing a heterocycle with at least one quaternary N atom as described by example in EP 2 998 908 A2, WO 95/017772 and WO 95/15144

Other direct dyes preferred according to present invention belonging to group c) above are described in US 2003/0135936 A1 (DZ1-DZ12).

The coloring formulation of the invention it can be a dye (coloring composition), or a preparation for hair treatment that in addition to coloring hair Temporary shapes hair in a certain style, such as a coloring gel or foam, or a cream, lotion or spray Colorant.

The oxidation coloration formulation according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation dyes conventional. Said oxidation product can be of type temporary, semi-permanent or permanent.

In general, permanent oxidation staining requires the combination of two compositions in situ in the staining process so that the oxidation staining formulation of the invention comprises:

A composition A) comprising one or more oxidation dyes (colorless) and

A composition B) comprising the agent oxidizing and activates the development of dyes.

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In principle the protective composition of the invention can be incorporated into any one of the two compositions or both. However in a preferred embodiment composition A) further comprises the protective composition of the invention.

Composition A) comprises one or more primary color color precursors, usually colorless react under the action of an oxidizing agent to form the Desired dye Generally the composition A) comprises a combination of several precursors especially to get natural hair colors. The so-called intermediates secondary are used so that they react with the primary under the action of the oxidizing agent to give rise to the final color. In accordance with the present invention one or more may be used secondary intermediates in combination with one or more primary.

Among the primary intermediates that may used to practice the present invention can be cite, among others, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxamido-4-amino-5-pyrazole, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylaminomethyl-4-aminophenol, bis- (4-aminophenyl) -amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis- (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, N.N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis- (N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 1,10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives described in EP 0 740 931 or WO 94/08970 for example 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -pyrazole.

Among the secondary intermediates that may used to practice the present invention can be cite, among others, m-aminophenol and its derivatives for example: 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol; o-aminophenol and its derivatives, the m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as: 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene Y 1-amino-3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene; o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives as per example: 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene; di- and trihydroxybenzene derivatives, such as for example: resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene; pyridine derivatives such such as: 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine Y 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine; naphthalene derivatives such as for example: 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene; morpholine derivatives such such as: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine; quinoxaline derivatives as for example 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline; pyrazole derivatives such as: 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one; indo derivatives) for example: 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, and 7-hydroxyindole; pyrimidine derivatives such as for example: 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine,  2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine  Y 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine; or derivatives of methylenedioxybenzene, such as for example: 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene Y 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Even more preferred are the following secondary intermediates: 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3- hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-Chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

The coloring formulation of the invention may also contain precursors of natural dyes in particular indoles and indoles, as well as physiologically salts compatible of them. Preferred examples are: 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, acid 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole-6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole. They are also preferred: 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, acid 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid,  6-hydroxyindoine, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Oxidation can be done in the presence of enzymes (class 1 enzymes: oxidoreductases) that transfer electrons from primary intermediates (reducing agents) to O2 atmospheric. Oxidases, such as tyrosinase, ascorbate are preferred oxidase and laccase, glucose oxidase, uricase, or pyruvate oxidase. The enzymes can be used to increase the effect of an agent oxidizer present in small amounts for example peroxidase with hydrogen peroxide.

Also the formulation of the invention can comprise one or more natural dyes such as red henna, neutral henna, black henna, chamomile, sandalwood, sage, stick Campeche, Blonde, Catecú, Argamala, Centaurea, Coffee, Tea, Saffron, or indigo.

The most commonly used alkalizing agents in the composition A) are ammonia or some alkanolamine such as monoethanolamine, 2-amino-methylpropanol carbonate sodium and mixtures thereof;

The most commonly used oxidizing agent in composition B) is hydrogen peroxide, although it is also They use sodium perborate and urea peroxide.

The oxidation formulation of the present invention may contain in addition to the additive dyes and Typical auxiliary components of these formulations. Usually The formulation also contains at least one surfactant, anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, non-ionic and cationic, although anionic surfactants are preferred in many cases, Zwitterionic and non-ionic.

In the formulations they are suitable as anionic surfactants all substances superficially Anionic active agents suitable for use in the human body. These they contain an anionic group that becomes water soluble, as per example carboxylate, sulfate, sulphonate or phosphate group and a group lipophilic alkyl with 10 to 22 C atoms. Additionally also they can have glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester groups, ether, amido and hydroxyl. Suitable examples are, respectively, in the form of sodium, calcium or ammonium salts, as well as mono, di and trialcanolamonium with 2 or 3 C atoms in the alkanol group,

-

acids linear fats with 10 to 22 C atoms (soaps),

-

acids ether carboxylic formula R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, where R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or from 1 to 16,

-

acylsarcosides with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,

-

aciltauratos with 10 to 18 atoms of C in the acyl group,

-

acylsethionates with 10 to 18 C atoms in the acyl group,

-

ester mono and dialkyl sulfosuccinic acid with 8 to 18 C atoms in  the monoalkyl acid alkyl and polyoxyethyl ester group sulfosuccinic with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

-

linear alkanesulfonates from 12 to 18 C atoms,

-

sulfonates of α-olefinalineals with 12 to 18 atoms of C,

-

ester α-sulfo-fatty acid methyl acid fatty with 12 to 18 C atoms,

-

alkyl sulfates and alkyl sulfates formula polyglycol ether R-O- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -SO 3 H wherein R is preferably a linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 atoms of C and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

-

mixtures of hydroxyl sulfonates superficially active as described in DE-A-37 25 030,

-

hydroxyalkyl polyethylene glycol ethers and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol sulfated ethers, according to DE-A-37 23 354,

-

unsaturated fatty acid sulfonates with 12 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-37 26 344,

-

esters of tartaric acid and acid citric with alcohols, which represent addition products of approximately 2-15 ethylene oxide molecules and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 atoms of C.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and acids ether carboxylic with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 groups of glycol ether in the molecule, as well as especially carboxylic acid salts of 8 to 22 C atoms saturated and especially unsaturated, such as oleic acid, acid stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.

Non-ionogenic surfactants contain as hydrophilic groups, for example, a polyol group, a group polyalkylene glycol ether or a combination of polyol groups and polyglycol ether. Such compounds are, for example:

-

addition products from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and aikylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

-

monkey and fatty acid diesters of 12 to 22 C atoms of products of adding from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide to glycerin,

-

rent C8-C22 mono and oligoglycosides and their analogues ethoxylated as well as

-

addition products from 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and castor oil hard.

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Preferred non-ionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of general formula R'-O-) Z) x. These compounds are characterized by the following parameters: The alkyl moiety R 'contains from 6 to 22 C atoms and can be linear or branched. Preferably they are linear and branched primary aliphatic residues with methyl in the position 2. Such alkyl moieties are for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl, and 1-stearyl. If used the so-called "oxo-alcohols" as materials Starting compounds predominate with an odd number of C atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl polyglycosides that can be used in the present invention they can only contain, for example, a fixed R 1 alkyl moiety. But normally, these compounds are Produced from fats and mineral oils. In this case it as R alkyl moieties present mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or correspondingly to the respective regeneration of these compounds.

Especially preferred are those alkyl polyglycosides, in which R 'consists of,

-

essentially alkyl groups from 8 to 10 C atoms, essentially alkyl groups of 12 to 14 C atoms, essentially alkyl groups of 8 to 16 C atoms, essentially alkyl groups of 12 to 16 C atoms.

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As a constituent element of sugar Z can any mono or oligosaccharides be used. Normally used sugars with 5 or 6 C atoms, as well as the corresponding oligosaccharides Such sugars are for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, alosa, astrosa, mannose, gummy, acid, talose and sucrose.

The alkyl polyglycosides that can be used in the present invention they contain an average of 1.1 to 5 units of sugar. Alkyl polyglycosides with values of x are preferred from 1.1 to 1.6. Especially preferred are alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4.

In addition to their surfactant effect, alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of The aromatic components in the hair.

The alkoxylated homologs of the named alkyl polyglycosides may also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 units of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide per unit of alkyl glycoside. In addition they can also be used especially as co-surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants. These are superficially active compounds that carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate or sulfonate group in the molecule. Especially suitable zwitterionic surfactants are so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example, coconut alkyldimethylammonioglycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N glycinate, N-dimethylammonium, for example, acylaminopropyldimethylamine of coconut and 2-alkyl-3-caroxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline with 8 to 18 C atoms respectively in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxyethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known as Cocamidopropyl betaine according to the designation
INCI.

Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable as co-surfactants. These are superficially active compounds that without having a group C8-C18 alkyl or acyl in the molecule contain the at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group and which are suitable to form internal salts. Examples of surfactants ampholytic are N-alkylglycins, acids N-alkylpropionic acids N-alkylaminobutyric acids, acids N-alkyliminodipropionics, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycins, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, acids 2-alkylaminopropionic acids alkylaminoacetics such as 8 to 18 C atoms respectively in the alkyl group. Ampholytic Surfactants Especially preferred are the Coconut N-aluilaminopropionate, Coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and acylsarcosine C12-C18.

As cationic surfactants they are used according to the invention especially those of the type of compounds of quaternary ammonium, esterquats and amidoamines.

Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, deityl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzylammonium and tricethylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known as Quaternium-27 and Quarernium-83 by the INCI designations. The long alkyl chains of the aforementioned surfactants preferably have between 10 and 18 atoms
of C.

In the case of esterquats it is about known compounds containing as structural element the less both an ester function and also at least one ammonium group quaternary. Preferred esterquats are ester salts quaternized fatty acids with triethanolamine, ester salts quaternized fatty acids with diethanolalkylamine and salts of quaternized fatty acid ester with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products they are sold for example under the trade names of Stepantex®, Dehyquart® and Armocare®.

Alkylamidoamines are normally produced by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and parts of fatty acids with dialkylaminoamines. The stearamidopropyl dimethylamine is found commercially available under the name Tegoamid®.

Quaternized protein hydrolysates they represent other cationic surfactants that can be used in The present invention.

According to the invention, the cationic silicone oils.

Silicone oils are also suitable cationic products such as the products available in the trade Q2-7224 (Dow Corning: a stabilized trimethylsilylammodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (which contains a hydroxylamino modified silicone, which also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker), Abil® - Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt; dicuaternary polydimethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80).

In the case of compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can be substances homogeneous. However, it is preferred to start from raw materials native vegetables or animals for the production of these substances,  so that mixtures of substances with different lengths of alkyl chains, dependent on the raw material respective.

In the case of the surfactants they represent Addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide a fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, may be used both products with a distribution of counterparts normal as well as those with a narrow distribution. In this normal sense refers to mixtures of homologs that are obtained by the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alcoholates of alkali metals as catalysts. The distributions of narrow counterparts are obtained instead when used as catalysts for example, hydrotalcite, metal salts alkaline earth of ether carboxylic acids, oxides, hydroxides or alkaline earth metal alcoholates.

Preferably the formulation of the invention It also contains an active conditioning substance selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, alkylamidoamines, paraffin oils, vegetable oils and synthetic oils.

The cationic polymers can be those preferred conditioners. They are generally polymers that contain an atom of N quaternary, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Among the cationic polymers may be mentioned among others:

-

quaternized cellulose derivatives, commercially available, for example Celquat® and Polymer JR®,

-

you go out dimethyldiallylammonium polymers and their acid copolymers acrylic, as well as esters and amides of acrylic acid and acid methacrylic Examples are the products available in the market under the names Merquat® 100 (poly (chloride of dimethyldiallylammonium), or Merquat® 550 (chloride copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium acrylamide),

-

vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, such as copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone dimethylaminomethacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate (examples Gafquat®734),

-

copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone-methimidazolinium chloride (example Luviquat®),

-

poly (vinyl alcohol) quaternized

as well as polymers with nitrogen atoms quaternary in the polymeric main chain known under the denominations Poliquaternium 2, Poliquaternium 17, Poliquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27.

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Cationic polymers of the first four groups named, very especially preferred are Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 10 and Polyquaternium 22.

In addition as active substances of conditioning silicone oils are suitable, especially dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, as well as their analogues alkoxylated and quaternized. Examples of such silicones are those products sold by Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200, DC 344, DC 345 and DC1401, as well as commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning: a trimethylsiliamodimethicone stabilized), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (containing a silicone modified with hydroxylamino, which is also called amodimethicone), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) as well as Abil- Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt: quaternary polydomethylsiloxane, Quaternium-80).

Conditioning active substances that can also be used are paraffinic oils, alkenes synthetically produced oligomers, as well as vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, orange oil, oil of almond, wheat germ oil and bone oil peach.

Equally conditioning compounds of suitable hair with phospholipids for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins.

Other active substances, auxiliaries and additives They are for example:

Thickeners such as agar agar, rubber guar, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, kakaya gum, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, such as methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylase, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as for example bentonite or synthetic hydrocolloids, such as polyvinyl alcohol,

Structuring agents such as maleic acid and acid lactic,

Perfumes in oil, dimethyl isosorbi and cyclodextrins

Solvents and solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,

Re-structuring agents of the fiber, in particular, mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, fructose and lactose,

Quaternary amines such as methosulfate from methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolium,

Defoamers such as silicones,

Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadin and climazole,

UV filters, in particular, benzophenones derivatized, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines,

Substances to adjust the pH such as, conventional acids and bases,

Active substances such as allantoin, acids Pyrrolidone carboxylic and derived salts and bisabolol,

Vitamins, provitamins and precursors of themselves especially from group A, B3, B5, C, E, F and H

Cholesterol,

Consistency factors, such as esters of sugar, polyol esters, or polyol alkyl esters;

Fats and waxes, like beeswax, paraffins

Fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA (acid tetraacetic ethylenediamine) or etidronic acid,

Agents to swell hair and promote penetration, such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and phosphates primary, secondary and tertiary,

Opacifiers, such as latex, copolymers of styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide

Pearl or pearl, such as monkey and ethylene glycol distearate and distearate PEG-3

Pigments,

Hydrogen peroxide stabilizers and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as mixtures of propane and butane, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air,

Color retarders such as phenylmethylpyrazone or N-methyl-p-aminophenol;

Antioxidants such as liquid nitrogen, sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite, dioxythiourea, ascorbic acid and erythorbic acid, ammonium thioglycolate or hydroquinone.

The coloration formulation according to the present invention can easily be prepared by a person skilled in the art according to methods comprising conventional steps well known to a person skilled in the art such as adding components sequentially to a conventional reactor, stirring, homogenizing, heating,
etc.

The protective composition of the invention is formulated together with a coloring formulation providing, in a single product, color to the fibers keratin and protection of the same and of the scalp during the staining process and later.

The formulations may be, depending on the excipients selected for preparation, lotions (viscous solutions or emulsions), creams (with fatty alcohol), gels (with polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose); solid or powder, that add water to activate it, among others.

The composition in the coloring formulation makes it provide an increase in color intensity, which which increases the performance of the coloring process and allows reduce to amount of dyes. The tests of the Examples show how the composition of the present invention incorporated into a formulation for hair coloring increases coverage gray hair with respect to a formulation for coloring conventional without the protective composition of the invention. In this sense, a gray hair has a part of white hair and another pigmented hair. The coverage capacity of a gray hair that has a coloring formulation determined by measuring the color difference of white hair respect the pigments after the coloring process. How much minor is the most hidden color difference are gray hair and The greater the feeling of coverage.

Another additional advantage of the composition protective of the invention is that the formulation of coloration that contains it provides effective protection of the Color versus washes. In this regard, and although the oxidation coloration formulations provide a wash color resistance superior to other types of coloration available, it is common however that the hue and intensity can be altered. As it becomes clear in the tests (see examples) the protective composition of the invention improves color protection against washes and It also protects against solar radiation.

Below are examples illustrative of the invention set forth for a better understanding of the invention and in no case should be considered a Limitation of its scope.

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Examples Example 1 Formulations for oxidation staining and its preparation

Formulations for coloring were prepared of keratin fibers comprising:

- the following composition A) (coloring cream) in which the dye varies (see tests E1-E5 in example 2):

one

Y

- the following composition B) (cream oxidizer):

2

1.a) Preparation of composition A)

The components CETOESTEARILICO ALCOHOL, CETEARETH-23, ESTEÁRICO ACID and COSMACOL ESI se mixed at a temperature of 85 ° C checking that after about 45 min. The fat phase was all melted and homogeneous.

For tests with fat soluble dyes (see example 2) these were incorporated in the previous mixture and Stir the whole for 5-10 minutes.

In an auxiliary vessel the DISSOLVINE NA-2 and SODIUM SULPHITE components ANHYDR in 30 g of DEIONIZED WATER and the solution was heated to 65-75 ° C.

Water-soluble dyes (see example 2) are incorporated into the aqueous solution of the auxiliary vessel. One time dissolved the dyes the aqueous phase was added on the phase molten fat while stirring.

The remaining DEIONIZED WATER was incorporated into room temperature and stirring was maintained during the process of emulsified. When the temperature dropped to 35-38 ° C, the stirring was added constantly SOOTHEX and AMISOL TRIO components. Finally AMONIACO was added at 25% and the whole was homogenized for 15 min.

1.b) Preparation of composition B)

They were mixed at a temperature of 70 ° C CETOESTEARILICO and CETEARETH-23 ALCOHOL components dispersed in 20 g of DEIONIZED WATER. In an auxiliary container TURPINAL SL was dissolved in 50 g of DEIONIZED WATER and added under constant agitation. In another vessel the DISOL SODIUM HYDROXIDE 50% in 0.3 g of DEIONIZED WATER and incorporated under constant agitation. Then he incorporated the OXYGENATED WATER 50% (between 3 and 24% depending on concentration) with extreme caution and the remaining DEIONIZED WATER (up to 100 g) was added stirring the whole until the temperature dropped to 25-30 ° C.

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Example 2 E1 to E5 color tests with the formulations of the example one

Each of trials E1 to E5 was performed with dyes C1 to C7 as indicated in the following table (quantities expressed in grams):

3

Where fat soluble dyes are:

C1

phenyl methylpyrazone (Phenyl Methyl Pyrazolone)

And the water-soluble dyes are:

C2

p-phenylenediamine (p-Phenylenediamine)

C3

p-aminophenol (p-Aminophenol)

C4

m-aminophenol (m-Aminophenol)

C5

Resorcinol

C6

4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (4-Amino-2-Hydroxytoluene)

C7

2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCL (2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol HCL)

For each color test E1 to E5, mixed 10 g of coloring cream (composition A) with 10 g of cream 6% pure hydrogen peroxide revealing oxidant (composition B).

The mixture was applied on 5 cm tufts of long yak hair, bleached human natural hair and fabric wool. The wicks were left for 30 min in an oven at 37 ° C to Simulate the temperature in the scalp. After the exposure time rinsed thoroughly with warm water, washed with a conventional shampoo for dyed hair and dried with dryer at room temperature.

4

Color intensification

To demonstrate that the composition object of the present invention allows to increase the intensity of color conducted comparative trials with a formulation for hair coloring according to the present invention and with a conventional formulation without the composition of the invention. TO colorimetric measurements of the Keratin fibers dyed in each case according to the process previously described.

Once dried and dyed, images of the fibers were taken with a dermatological microscope (Moritex model i-scope USB) under normalized and constant lighting conditions under polarized light to avoid the effects of brightness. The digital images taken with the microcamera were analyzed using Adobe's Photoshop CS2 program to obtain the parameters that uniquely characterize the average color of the image taken using the CIE L * a * b * scale. The three parameters in the model represent the color brightness (L *, L * = 0 indicates black, greater intensity and L * = 100 indicates white, lower intensity), their position between magenta and green (a *, negative values indicate green while positive values indicate magenta) and its position between yellow and blue (b *, negative values indicate blue and positive values indicate yellow). To determine the differences in color intensity, yak hair is used
and the wool cloth because being a practically colorless substrate the intensity differences are better observed.

5

The colorimetric results of parameter L show how the color obtained with E3 and E4 is darker than the obtained with a conventional dye formulation.

Gray hair coverage

To demonstrate that the composition object of the This invention allows to increase the coverage of gray hair carried out comparative tests with a product for hair coloring according to the present invention and with a product  conventional without the composition of the invention, and then they took colorimetric measurements of the color difference of strands of natural human hair and dyed yak hair in each case according to the process described above.

Yak's hair is very similar in nature to human and practically white, which perfectly simulates the white hair behavior. Color difference between hair and yak hair was determined by the parameter ΔE defined according to the following expression:

6

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7

The smallest color difference between the hair natural and white yak hair indicates that gray hair is more disguised and so the coverage power is greater for E1 and E2

Wash resistance

Strands of human natural hair were dyed and yak hair and its color was characterized according to the process previously described. Then the strands were washed with a standard shampoo for colored hair for 30 seconds and it  rinsed with running water for another 30 seconds. This cycle it was repeated 15 times, and, after drying the tufts it characterized the color again. The color difference before and after washing it was determined for yak and hair by parameter ΔE defined according to the following expression:

8

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9

The smallest color difference before and after the washings indicates that the color has remained better for E2 and E5.

Resistance to solar radiation

Strands of human natural hair were dyed and yak hair and its color was characterized according to the process previously described. Then the strands were exposed on a Solarbox 3000 using a Xenon halogen lamp whose emission spectrum is very similar to sunlight. The wicks are exposed for 40 h at an irradiance of 1000 W / m2 which equivalent to approximately one month of exposure in Europe Southern during the summer. The color difference before and after radiation exposure was determined for yak and hair using the \ DeltaE parameter defined according to the following expression:

10

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eleven

The smallest color difference before and after radiation exposure indicates that the color has remained Better for E1 and E5.

Claims (10)

1. Protective composition of keratin fibers and of the scalp comprising:

?

from 3 to 0.03% by weight with with respect to the total weight of the extract composition of soy,

?

5 to 0.05% by weight with respect to the total weight of the Boswellia serrata extract composition, and

?

from 3 to 0.03% by weight with with respect to the total weight of the composition of an ester derived from salicylic acid and a linear C10-C15 alcohol or branched.

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2. Composition according to claim 1, which understands: from 2 to 0.05% by weight with respect to the total weight of the soybean extract composition, preferably
1-0.1%

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3. Composition according to any one of the previous claims, comprising from 3 to 0.1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the Boswellia serrata extract composition, preferably 2-0.15%.

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4. Composition according to any one of the claims 1-3, comprising: from 2 to 0.05% by weight with respect to weight total of the ester composition derived from salicylic acid and a C10-C15 linear or branched alcohol preferably 1-0.1%

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5. Composition according to claim 4 in the that the derived ester is tridecyl salicylate. 6. Use of the protective composition according to any of the preceding claims, in the preparation of a formulation of keratin fiber staining. 7. Formulation for fiber coloring keratin which comprises the protective composition according to a any of claims 1-5. 8. Formulation according to claim 7, which It also includes one or more direct dyes. 9. Formulation according to claim 7, which It also comprises one or more oxidation dyes. 10. Formulation according to claim 9, characterized in that it comprises:

?

A composition A) comprising one or more oxidation dyes and the protective composition according to any one of claims 1-5; Y

?

A composition B) comprising the oxidizing agent