ES2366507A1 - Device of progression and assurance for climbing and vertical work. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding) - Google Patents

Abstract

Progression and assurance device for climbing and vertical works. It comprises a beam (1) as a handle, attached to rings (3) located at one end of rods (2). The opposite end of the rods (2) is joined to an axis (7) that supports two pairs of cams (11, 12, 13, 19), composed of two half-waves (4, 5). The cams (11, 12, 13, 19) of each pair are oriented opposite to a plane containing the rods (2). The semis (4, 5) are hinged together according to pins (6). By actuating a trigger (8) the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are rotated, from a closed position to an open position. The device includes torsion springs (14) and spiral springs for the recovery of the open position and has a width of 34 millimeters and an opening range of 14 to 42 millimeters. (Machine-translation by Google Translate, not legally binding)

Description

Progression and assurance device for climbing and vertical work.

Object of the invention

The present invention is included within the climbing field and aims at a progression device and assurance for climbing.

Background of the invention

Climbers, both in natural rock and in the artificial one, they need instruments that enable them to be able to make an advance during climbing under sufficient conditions of safety, comfort and efficiency.

Some of these devices, named in the slang fighters, built-in or friends, look at one of their ends to the rock or wall and at another end to the climber's harness and have the mission of securing the climber, keeping it suspended in case of accident, to avoid a vacuum fall. Within fissures, there are those of the cam type, which include at least one cam at the end fixed to the rock, so that once the instrument in a rock fissure, a mechanism can be operated of opening the cams, by means of which said cams expand, preventing the cams from leaving the fissure and producing from this Safe anchoring mode of the climber.

Improvements of this type of devices that include two cams, which increases the grip and, consequently, safety. For example, the use of cams composed of three elements allows to increase the range of opening (range of crack widths for which the appliance is useful), although it presents the problem that it is a mechanism too complex, which can lead to difficulties, given the extreme conditions of climbing in some occasions.

At present the use of this is very fashionable type of devices for opening new routes in the different mountain ranges of the world. However, the products marketed have serious problems in their use to those who no solution has yet been given, such as, among others, its excessive width.

Description of the invention

It is an objective of the invention to present a progression and assurance device for climbing that presents a high opening range with a simple construction and dimension reduced in width.

It is another object of the invention to present a progression and assurance device for high climbing resistance and able to resist factor 2 falls by functioning as load forwarding without plasticizing stresses exceeded by Von Mises.

Another object of the invention is to present a progression and assurance device for climbing in which the cams do not necessarily act together, of so that it is possible to avoid the transmission of load to the cams that They are not willing to bear it.

The invention also has the objective of present a progression and assurance device for climbing which facilitates climbing in adverse conditions, simplifying the tasks of carabinering and ensuring the fixation of the climber as well as providing further progress.

Through the progression device and assurance of the invention the inconveniences are resolved previously mentioned and the objectives are achieved required

The invention constitutes a device for progression and assurance for climbing that incorporates following components:

- A vague as a handle made of textile material, located at one end of the device the invention;

- Resistance and transmission means of tensions, attached to the vague at one of its ends;

- A plurality of cams formed by two half-shells articulated with each other by means of a pin, being said cams joined by a common axis, which is connected to turn to the stems at their opposite ends to the rings;

- A trigger whose drive allows the articulation of the cams, from an open arrangement to a closed arrangement, by means of braces attached to said trigger on one end of these braces and on the other at cams

- A means of recovery of the provision open the cams when the trigger drive stops.

The cams are constituted by two half-shells articulated around a pin. Additionally, the set of all the cams rotates around the main axis of the device. Each pair of upper and lower half-shells constitutes a cam, therefore there are two independent pairs of cams

With this arrangement of the cams you get a better adaptation of the cams to the innate irregularities of the rock. The device is intended to be the result of the union of two primary devices independent of each other.

The means of position recovery cam open after full closure or after retrieving device of a crack comprise at least one torsion spring for each cam, external to the pin, and at least one spring of Inner spiral to one half of each cam. The closing of the cams and the subsequent recovery of the open position occur by means of two different consecutive movements that can perform the cams:

- A) Joint movement of the two half-shells of Each cam around the axis.

- B) Relative movement between the two half-shells around its pin.

The movement A) is produced from the open initial position, with the free trigger and the tensionless straps. If from this position the trigger is activated, the movement of the cams around the axis common to all of them begins, without relative movement between the half-rails of each
cam.

Movement B) occurs from a point movement limit A). When that limit point is reached, the semilevas that form each cam of each group of cams are articulated around its pin.

Since the spring recovery force of torsion is greater than that of spiral springs, first it produces movement A) and then movement B). One time made the movement B), the cams are closed. Releasing the trigger returns to the initial open position, performing first the movement B) and finally the movement TO).

The number of stems is preferably two, thereby reducing the voltage supported by each of them and prevents possible rotation and relocation of the device, in the if not all cam groups are well placed. In this way it is possible to carabiner the stem that is working, taking advantage of its extreme ring, with what they earn a few centimeters that are especially precious in climbing artificial. The stems can be coated with PVC to avoid abrasion wear

The vague is used to place the Carabiner used to subsequently carabine the rope. Without However, in this case, this vague fulfills two other functions additional that facilitate climbing significantly. Indeed, allows the placement of the thumb in a position suitable for trigger the trigger comfortably, due to a loop that has the wanders near the junction with the stem rings and, secondly, it greatly simplifies the placement of the piece called "fifí", which is very convenient especially in artificial climbing.

Description of the drawings

To complement the description that is being performing and in order to help a better understanding of the characteristics of the invention, according to an example preferred practical implementation of it, is accompanied as integral part of that description, a set of drawings where with an illustrative and non-limiting nature, what has been represented next:

Figure 1.- Shows a perspective view of the device of the invention in open arrangement, with the trigger pressure free

Figure 2.- Shows a perspective view of the device of the invention in closed arrangement, with the trigger actuated.

Figure 3.- Shows a perspective view of Torsion springs and their location.

Preferred Embodiment of the Invention

The invention constitutes a device for progression and assurance for climbing that incorporates following components:

- A vague (1) as a handle made of textile material, located at one end of the device the invention;

- Resistance and transmission means of tensions, attached to the vague at one of its ends;

- A plurality of cams (11, 12, 13, 19) formed by an upper half-wash (4) and a lower half-wash (5), articulated with each other by means of a pin (6), said cams (11, 12, 13, 19) joined by a common shaft (7), which is located connected in turn to the resistance and transmission means of tensions;

- A trigger (8) whose drive allows the cams articulation (11, 12, 13, 19), from an arrangement open to a closed arrangement, by means of braces (9) attached to said trigger (8) by one end of said braces (9) and on the other to the cams (11, 12, 13, 19).

- A means of recovery of the provision cam open (11, 12, 13, 19) when the drive stops of the trigger (8).

The means of resistance and transmission of tensions may comprise at least one rod (2) attached to the vague (1) by means of a ring (3) that incorporates each rod (2) in one of its ends.

The cams (11, 12, 13, 19) have a curvature spiral type to achieve a uniform angle of attack, of so that the device works equally throughout its range of functioning.

It is very useful to provide the lateral surface of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) with a toothed roughness, thereby increasing the coefficient of friction between the cam material (11, 12, 13, 19 ) and the rock. This roughness in the form of micro teeth (10) runs into the roughness of the rock and produces a better grip of the device in the rock even if said rock is very polished or layered
of lime

Unlike existing models known, the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are united in groups independent, preferably in pairs, so that the half-caves (4) and (5) of each of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) they share a pin (6), through which they articulate together the half-shells (4, 5) of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) of each group when the trigger is activated (8). The number of cams (11, 12, 13, 19) is preferably four, grouped into two pairs. This allows better use in unfavorable conditions in which some of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) may not be perfectly placed.

With this arrangement of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) a better adaptation of the cams is achieved (11, 12, 13, 19) to the innate irregularities of the rock. It is intended that the device is the result of the union of two devices primary independent from each other, that is, from two devices different independent, each of which has only Two cams

The cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are arranged so there are two outer cams (11, 19) and two cams inner (12, 13), and outer cams (11, 19) are oriented opposite to the inner cams (12, 13), with respect to a plane defined by the stems (2).

The cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are grouped equally in two couples The left cam couple (11, 12) and the couple right cam (13, 19), so that each pair is composed by an inner cam (12, 13) and an outer cam (11, 19).

This provision will ensure greater resistance and an improvement in the placement in the rock reducing the walking effect typical of models with symmetric pairs. This asymmetric arrangement with respect to said plane enables, in artificial climbing, independent use of a single couple. From this way, if a couple loses the placement in the rock, or by Rock defects can not stand the stresses of a fall, being independent mechanisms, the other group that would avoid the total relocation of the device.

The cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are manufactured preferably of an alloy material belonging to the series aeronautical 7000, in particular, 7075-T6 alloy with moderate anodizing, which gives it a high capacity for load, specifically up to approximately 12760 Newton. This allows that the instrument works in the most severe conditions (falls of factor 2) functioning as load forwarding. Deformations produced in such a case would not be catastrophic for uses later, since the tensions of plasticization of von Mises. Moderate anodizing prevents modifications of the tolerances due to the effect of corrosion.

The means of position recovery cams open (11, 12, 13, 19) after complete closure or after recover the device from a crack comprise at least one torsion spring (14) for each cam (11, 12, 13, 19), exterior to the pin (6), and at least one inner spiral spring to a half-full (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19). The closing of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) and the subsequent recovery of the position open occur by means of two different movements Consecutive that can be made by cams (11, 12, 13, 19):

- A) Joint movement of each pair of half-shells (4, 5) around the axis (7).

- B) Relative movement between the two half-shells (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19) around its pin (6).

In the open or initial position, both Half-shells (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19) are found arranged one on the right and one on the left.

Movement A) is produced from the initial position open, (see Figure 1) with the trigger (8) without actuate and the braces (9) without tension. Yes from this position the trigger (8) is actuated, the braces are tensioned (9) and begins the movement of the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) around the common axis (7), without relative movement between the half-shells (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19).

Movement B) occurs from a point movement limit A). When that limit point is reached, the half-shells (4, 5) that form each cam (11, 12, 13, 19) of each couple are articulated around their pin (6), so that the upper half-wash (4) becomes a higher position and the lower half-wash (5) becomes a lower position.

Since the spring recovery force of torsion (14) is greater than that of the spiral springs, first produces movement A) and then movement B). One time made the movement B), the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) remain in closed position Releasing the trigger (8) returns to the position initial open, first through movement B) and finally from movement A).

The material used for the shaft (7) is preferably an AISI 4340 steel, chosen especially for its High tenacity and high resistance to shear forces.

The number of stems (2) is preferably two, which reduces the voltage supported by each of them and a possible rotation and relocation of the device is avoided, in the case that not all couples are well placed. In this way it is possible to carabine the stem (2) that is working, taking advantage of its ring (3) end, with what they earn a few centimeters that are especially precious in climbing artificial. This technique of carabinering directly on the shank (2) should only be used in artificial climbing, since the rod (2) is not designed for a metallic contact in case of Climber's fall The stems (2) may be coated with PVC to prevent abrasion wear.

The vague (1) is used to place the Carabiner used to subsequently carabine the rope. Without However, in this case, said vague (1) fulfills two other functions additional that facilitate climbing significantly. Indeed, allows the placement of the thumb in a position suitable for actuate the trigger (8) comfortably, due to a loop (16) that It has the vague (1) near the junction with the rings (3) of the stems (2) and, secondly, greatly simplifies the placement of the piece called "fifí", which results from great convenience especially in artificial climbing.

The vague (1) is preferably manufactured in Dyneema, material that, with a very low weight, confers a adequate resistance to the purposes of the device and compatible with the resistance of the other elements. Design resistance of the vague (1) is approximately 15000 Newton.

The invention stands out because it has a range of opening far superior to the known commercial models. In particular and according to a practical embodiment of the invention, the Opening range is approximately 18 to 42 millimeters. This wide opening range has been achieved thanks to the division of the cam (11, 12, 13, 19) in two half-shells (4, 5) articulated by torsion springs (14) and which rotate together by means of springs spirals

Another fundamental feature of the invention is that it has much more width dimensions reduced than those of known commercial models, due to the previously described torsion spring system (14) Interior to the cams. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the width is worth approximately 34 millimeters.

The invention has the additional advantage of that the 4 cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are preferably grouped into 2 groups of two cams (11, 12, 13, 19) arranged so that the two outer cams (11, 19) are oriented opposite to the two inner cams (12, 13), with respect to a plane defined by the stems (2). This asymmetric provision with respect to said plane enables the independent use of one of the cam groups (11, 12, 13, 19) in artificial climbing.

In addition, the invention has the aspect positive of the versatility of the vague (1), since in addition to its use for natural rock climbing, allows its advantageous use in artificial climbing, thanks to a loop (16) that presents in the area of union with the rings of the stems (2).

Claims (6)

1. Progression and assurance device for climbing and vertical work, which includes: - A vague (1), as a handle, manufactured in textile material, located at one end; - resistance and transmission means of tensions, attached to the vague (1) at one of its ends; - a plurality of cams (11, 12, 13, 19) that they comprise a spiral profile, each formed by a half-wave upper (4) and a lower half-wash (5), the half-rows being (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19) articulated with each other by means of two pins (6), said cams (11, 12, 13, 19) being joined together by a common axis (7), which is in turn connected to the means of resistance and tension transmission, and comprising the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) micro teeth (10) on their face lateral, which facilitate the grip on a rock during climbing; - a trigger (8) whose drive allows the cams articulation (11, 12, 13, 19), from an arrangement open to a closed arrangement, by means of braces (9) attached to said trigger (8) by one end of said braces (9) and on the other to the cams (11, 12, 13, 19), and - means of recovery of the provision cam open (11, 12, 13, 19) when the drive stops of the trigger (8), characterized in that the resistance and tension transmission means comprise at least two rods (2) attached at one end to the vague (1) and at the end opposite the axis (7). 2. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the cams (11, 12, 13, 19) are arranged in pairs of cams oppositely oriented according to a plane containing the stems (2). 3. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has an opening range between 18 and 42 millimeters. 4. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a width of 34 millimeters. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the recovery means comprise at least one torsion spring (14) for each cam (11, 12, 13, 19), external to the pin (6), and at least an inner spiral spring to a half-length (4, 5) of each cam (11, 12, 13, 19). Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the vague (1) comprises a loop (16) close to the zone of union with the rings of the stems (2).