EP4447922A1 - Methods and compositions for the protection of hair - Google Patents
Methods and compositions for the protection of hairInfo
- Publication number
- EP4447922A1 EP4447922A1 EP21844863.7A EP21844863A EP4447922A1 EP 4447922 A1 EP4447922 A1 EP 4447922A1 EP 21844863 A EP21844863 A EP 21844863A EP 4447922 A1 EP4447922 A1 EP 4447922A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- tress
- alkyl
- alkyltriethoxysilane
- carbon atoms
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 title claims abstract description 174
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 56
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 24
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 229940014800 succinic anhydride Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- -1 alkenyl succinic anhydride Chemical compound 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 23
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 21
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 12
- 206010019049 Hair texture abnormal Diseases 0.000 claims description 10
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- BLRPTPMANUNPDV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silane Chemical compound [SiH4] BLRPTPMANUNPDV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- CWAFVXWRGIEBPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethoxysilane Chemical compound CCO[SiH3] CWAFVXWRGIEBPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910000077 silane Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011253 protective coating Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 210000004919 hair shaft Anatomy 0.000 abstract description 27
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000003301 hydrolyzing effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000000379 polymerizing effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 25
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 20
- OYGYKEULCAINCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethoxy(hexadecyl)silane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC OYGYKEULCAINCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 13
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 13
- IBZUBRHHBQMYKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylicosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C(O)=O IBZUBRHHBQMYKJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 8
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 8
- MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N octyltriethoxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](OCC)(OCC)OCC MSRJTTSHWYDFIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 5
- 238000002149 energy-dispersive X-ray emission spectroscopy Methods 0.000 description 5
- FALRKNHUBBKYCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(chloromethyl)pyridine-3-carbonitrile Chemical compound ClCC1=NC=CC=C1C#N FALRKNHUBBKYCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 4
- 150000003839 salts Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- QQQSFSZALRVCSZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethoxysilane Chemical class CCO[SiH](OCC)OCC QQQSFSZALRVCSZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000032683 aging Effects 0.000 description 3
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 3
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000001878 scanning electron micrograph Methods 0.000 description 3
- WSRCOZWDQPJAQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 18-methylicosanoic acid Chemical compound CCC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O WSRCOZWDQPJAQT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical group [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 2
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 230000003699 hair surface Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000007062 hydrolysis Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000006460 hydrolysis reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000035882 stress Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 2
- SFAAOBGYWOUHLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl hexadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC SFAAOBGYWOUHLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WVRNUXJQQFPNMN-VAWYXSNFSA-N 3-[(e)-dodec-1-enyl]oxolane-2,5-dione Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC\C=C\C1CC(=O)OC1=O WVRNUXJQQFPNMN-VAWYXSNFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RSPWVGZWUBNLQU-FOCLMDBBSA-N 3-[(e)-hexadec-1-enyl]oxolane-2,5-dione Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC\C=C\C1CC(=O)OC1=O RSPWVGZWUBNLQU-FOCLMDBBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KAYAKFYASWYOEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-octadec-1-enyloxolane-2,5-dione Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=CC1CC(=O)OC1=O KAYAKFYASWYOEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium acetate Chemical compound [Na+].CC([O-])=O VMHLLURERBWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000013459 approach Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000969 carrier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000005591 charge neutralization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003766 combability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001010 compromised effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012141 concentrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007859 condensation product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003700 hair damage Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002427 irreversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010979 pH adjustment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004756 silanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001632 sodium acetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000017281 sodium acetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RINCXYDBBGOEEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N succinic anhydride Chemical class O=C1CCC(=O)O1 RINCXYDBBGOEEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003871 sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- HXOGQBSDPSMHJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N triethoxy(6-methylheptyl)silane Chemical compound CCO[Si](OCC)(OCC)CCCCCC(C)C HXOGQBSDPSMHJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
- A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
- A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
Definitions
- the outermost layer of the hair shaft, the hair surface structure, is rich in 18- methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) that is covalently bound to the keratin-associated proteins of the hair cuticle, creating a relatively lubricious hydrophobic protective overlay (see Tokunaga, Cosmetics, 6, 31 (2019)). If the layer of 18-MEA is lost, it is not replenished, and the natural structure and behavior of the hair is compromised. Concomitant with the loss, negatively charged sulfonates (SCh”) become active species that are exposed on the outermost hair surface and cause hair to become relatively hydrophilic, sensitive to changes in humidity, and to appear dull and frizzy. Loss of 18-MEA also exposes keratin-associated proteins, peptides, and amino acids, which leads to their further damage and destruction.
- 18-MEA 18- methyleicosanoic acid
- a method of protecting hair comprising:
- a method of protecting hair comprising:
- composition comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, wherein the composition forms a protective, elastic outer layer when applied to hair and dried.
- Embodiment 1 A method of protecting hair comprising:
- Embodiment 2 The method according to embodiment 1, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
- Embodiment 3 The method according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltri ethoxy silane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
- Embodiment 4 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the water in step (b) has a pH of about 4-5.
- Embodiment 5 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (c) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
- Embodiment 6 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
- Embodiment 7 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the alkyltriethoxy silane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
- Embodiment 8 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (b) comprises applying to the hair a solution of acetic acid, citric acid, or a buffered system.
- Embodiment 9 The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (a) comprises applying a solution containing about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane in a volatile or non-volatile solvent.
- Embodiment 10 A method of protecting hair comprising:
- Embodiment 11 The method according to embodiment 10, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
- Embodiment 12 The method according to embodiment 10 or 11, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
- Embodiment 13 The method according to any of embodiments 10-12, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl group in the alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
- Embodiment 14 The method according to any of embodiments 10-13, wherein step (b) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
- Embodiment 15 The method according to any of embodiments 10-14, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
- Embodiment 16 The method according to any of embodiments 10-15, wherein the alkyltriethoxy silane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
- Embodiment 17 The method according to any of embodiments 10- 16, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and balance the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane.
- Embodiment 18 The method according to any of embodiments 10-17, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxy silane.
- Embodiment 19 A composition comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, wherein the composition forms a protective, elastic outer layer when applied to hair and dried.
- Embodiment 20 The composition according to embodiment 19, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and the alkyl or alkenyl group in the at least one alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
- aspects of the disclosure relate to methods for protection of the hair shaft prior to damage, thus retaining the original structure and prolonging the life span of hair. Such methods provide additional benefits by providing healthier appearance, strength, and shine when used on either damaged or undamaged hair.
- a protective, elastic, non-penetrating outer layer is created on individual hair shafts which prevents the of loss of 18-MEA during chemical treatments, physical processing, and aging, and provides hair shaft integrity.
- This is achieved by applying to wet or dry hair alkyltriethoxysilanes with a sufficient number of carbon atoms such that penetration of the cuticle does not occur and the structural integrity of the hair shaft is maintained.
- the alkyltriethoxysilane undergoes a hydrolysis and polymerization process on the outer surface of the hair shafts upon changing the pH from neutral to moderately acidic and applying heat.
- alkyl group length about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms
- the alkyl group may have about 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, or 22 carbon atoms.
- the compatibility and performance of alkyltriethoxysilanes having about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms appears optimal and is presently preferred. Accordingly, preferred alkyltriethoxysilanes contain about 12, 13, 14, 15, or 16 carbon atoms.
- a protective layer forms and the hair fibers remain as individual strands, i.e., they are not attached or connected by a continuous film, but rather manifest a smooth cohesive behavior and are better able to resist mechanical damage.
- a first method for protecting hair comprises applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane directly onto wet or dry hair, followed by applying to the hair water adjusted to an acidic pH, preferably a pH of about 4-5, and heating the hair.
- the term “long chain alkyltriethoxysilane” may be understood to encompass triethoxysilanes in which the carbon chain in the alkyl group contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms, as previously described.
- the hydrophobic alkyl portion of the alkyltri ethoxysilane forms a layer by hydrophobic interaction with the hydrocarbon chains of 18- MEA.
- the alkyltri ethoxysilane After the alkyltri ethoxysilane is applied to the hair, it rapidly associates with the 18-MEA- rich outer layer and the triethoxy part of the silane is hydrolyzed by the application of the acidic water. This initiates hydrolysis of the silane, which then condenses and polymerizes upon application of heat using heating tools commonly found in a hair salon, such as a blow dryer, curling iron, and/or flat iron.
- the pH adjustment of the water may be accomplished by well-known methods, such as by forming dilute solutions of acetic acid, citric acid, or other acidic species, or by employing buffered systems, such as sodium acetate/acetic acid, so that such dilute solutions may be applied to the hair in the second step.
- the method may comprise first wetting the hair with water adjusted to an acidic pH, preferably a pH of about 4-5, and then applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane.
- this method requires
- a second method according to the disclosure for protecting hair comprises applying to the wet or dry hair a mixture containing primarily at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride.
- the term “long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride” may be understood to encompass succinic anhydrides in which the carbon chain in the alkyl or alkenyl group contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 carbons. Accordingly, the alkyl or alkenyl group may contain about 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, or 18 carbon atoms.
- the amount of succinic anhydride in the mixture is preferably at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt%, more preferably less than about 2 wt%.
- the amount of triethoxysilane in the mixture is preferably about 50 wt% to about 99.5%.
- the mixture may contain only succinic anhydride and triethoxysilane (0.5 wt% to 10 wt% succinic anhydride and balance triethoxysilane) or may be a solution containing the two components in the preferred concentrations with balance water or a solvent as previously described This method eliminates the requirement of a separate application step of acidic water and the hair can be wetted before or after application.
- the mixture may be applied to wet or dry hair.
- the components are further condensed by applying heat to the hair using heating tools commonly found in a hair salon.
- formulations containing 5-60 wt% of the alkyltrialkoxy silane may be mixed with compatible non-volatile solvents, such as, but not limited to, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate or octyltrimethicone, or with volatile solvents, such as, but not limited to, propyltrimethicone or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- compatible non-volatile solvents such as, but not limited to, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate or octyltrimethicone
- volatile solvents such as, but not limited to, propyltrimethicone or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
- Hair treated by the methods according to the disclosure is protected from damage (such as environmental, physical stress, chemical treatment, and natural aging) and maintains the behavior of “healthy” hair, including combability, gloss, reduction of frizz, and smoothness of feel. Further, as a result of the non-penetrating outer layer formed on individual shafts, the protected individual strands of hair can move independently, yet, because they have similar physical properties, are able to move in a relatively cohesive manner, maintaining natural look and behavior. This is in stark contrast to the application of polymeric materials such as oligomeric condensation products of alkoxysilanes to hair, which leads to bridging between hair shafts. Such bridging does not occur to hair treated by the methods described herein.
- damage such as environmental, physical stress, chemical treatment, and natural aging
- Example 1 Application of n-octyltriethoxylsilane to virgin hair with acidic water and/or heat exposure
- Sample Preparation A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from H4IP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
- Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane (CAS# 2943-75-1) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread throughout the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shafts. The treated hair tress was exposed to air at room temperature for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid was sprayed onto the tress. The tress was covered in plastic for 30 minutes, then dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat. When the tress was completely dry, it was combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- n-octyltriethoxysilane CAS# 2943-75-1
- Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid until the hair was saturated. The hair tress was then sprayed with sufficient n-octyltriethoxysilane to saturate the hair. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was covered in plastic for 30 minutes, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 4 - Hair tress D was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control (A) as an indication of frizz, with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz. Hair tress A (control) had a width of 13 cm. Hair tress B had a width of 7.5 cm, corresponding to a 42% reduction of frizz. Hair tress C had a width of 7.7 cm, corresponding to 40% reduction of frizz. Hair tress D had a width of 7.0 cm, corresponding to 46% reduction of frizz.
- Samples B, C, and D showed defined curl, increased shine, and increased smoothness compared to Sample A (control); these properties were assessed and evaluated by individuals with expertise in the cosmetic industry. The following relationships were observed:
- Example 2 Application of hexadecyltri ethoxysilane to bleached hair with acidic water and/or heat exposure
- a hair tress with virgin, frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was bleached twice with level 9 bleach using 40 volume developer.
- the hair tress was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
- Sample 1- Hair tress A was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
- Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The treated hair tress was exposed to air at room temperature for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid was sprayed onto the tress. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, then dried with a hair dryer on a high speed and high heat. When the tress was completely dried, it was combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid to full saturation, then sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane in an amount sufficient to saturate the hair. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 4 - Hair tress D was sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) until the hair was saturated. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz.
- Hair tress A (control) had a width of about 11 cm.
- Hair tress B had a width of about 4.5 cm, corresponding to a 59 % reduction of frizz.
- Hair tress C had a width of about 5.0 cm, corresponding to a 55% reduction of frizz.
- Hair tress D had a width of about 8.0 cm, corresponding to a 27 % reduction of frizz.
- Example 3 Application of hexadecyltriethoxysilane applied to hair with long-chain alkyl succinic anhydride application and heat exposure
- Sample Preparation A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
- Sample 2 - Hair tress B was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% dodecenylsuccinic anhydride. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 3 - Hair tress C was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% hexadecenylsuccinic anhydride. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%.
- Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 4 - Hair tress D was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% octadecenylsuccinic anhydride (CAS# 28777-98-2). Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control (A) as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz.
- Hair tress A (control) had a width of 13 cm.
- Hair tress B had a width of about 7 cm, corresponding to a 46 % reduction of frizz.
- Hair tress C had a width of about 5 cm, corresponding to a 61.5 % reduction of frizz.
- Sample D had a width of about 5.5 cm, corresponding to a 57 % reduction.
- Example 4 Application of various chain length alkyltri ethoxylsilanes and acidic water to hair followed by heat exposure
- Sample Preparation A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
- Sample 1- Hair tress A was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
- Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane (CAS# 2943-75-1) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with isooctyltriethoxysilane to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Sample 4 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with hexadecyltri ethoxy silane to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
- Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz.
- Hair tress A (control) had a width of 12 cm.
- Hair tress B had a width of 6.8 cm, corresponding to a 43% reduction of frizz.
- Hair tress C had a width of 6.0 cm, corresponding to 50% reduction of frizz.
- Hair tress D had a width of 5.1 cm, corresponding to 58% reduction of frizz.
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Abstract
A method of protecting hair from damage by applying a long-chain unhydrolyzed alkyltrialkoxysilane to hair shafts and then hydrolyzing and polymerizing the alkyltrialkoxysilane to form a non-penetrating outer layer on the hair shaft by utilizing pH adjusted water followed by the application of heat. Alternatively, the alkyltrialkoxysilane may be applied to the hair in combination with an alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride prior to the application of heat.
Description
TITLE OF THE INVENTION
[0001] Methods and Compositions for the Protection of Hair
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Hair damage due to physical stress, chemical treatment, or natural aging is naturally unpreventable. Since hair does not restore itself, damage is typically irreversible and most hair treatments concentrate on fixing already damaged hair.
[0003] The outermost layer of the hair shaft, the hair surface structure, is rich in 18- methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) that is covalently bound to the keratin-associated proteins of the hair cuticle, creating a relatively lubricious hydrophobic protective overlay (see Tokunaga, Cosmetics, 6, 31 (2019)). If the layer of 18-MEA is lost, it is not replenished, and the natural structure and behavior of the hair is compromised. Concomitant with the loss, negatively charged sulfonates (SCh") become active species that are exposed on the outermost hair surface and cause hair to become relatively hydrophilic, sensitive to changes in humidity, and to appear dull and frizzy. Loss of 18-MEA also exposes keratin-associated proteins, peptides, and amino acids, which leads to their further damage and destruction.
[0004] The loss of 18-MEA from the hair is traditionally addressed with products containing positively charged quaternary salts which ionically associate with the SCL" sites and temporarily neutralize the negative charge of the hair. The major downside of the use of these salts is that they are only weakly associated with the damaged sites of the hair shaft and are limited to low concentration levels. Additionally, the ionic bond between a quaternary salt and SCL" is easily broken by washing or simply brushing the hair, making their effects short-lived. Most products which include quaternary salts to treat 18-MEA loss incorporate fatty acids and other ingredients that create build-up when overused. Consequently, most of these treatments are temporary and therefore must be used regularly to achieve their benefits. These products additionally do not prevent the further loss of 18-MEA, but only reduce the appearance of existing damage due to charge neutralization.
[0005] Other previous approaches to treating damaged hair have been to modify damaged hair by penetrating the cuticle of the hair that has been depleted of 18-MEA. For example, U.S. Patent No. 8,470,064 teaches that short chain alkyltrialkoxysilanes with six or fewer carbons are able to penetrate the cuticle of the hair and improve manageability of the hair. Regardless of the benefits, a structural change occurs to the hair treated by these methods. Methods of hair treatment in which
pre-hydrolyzed or pre-polymerized alkyltrialkoxysilanes (alkysilanetriols or alkylsilsesquioxanes) are applied to the hair, either directly or stabilized by emulsions, are described in U.S. Patent No. 10,487,242. However, there remains a need in the art for methods for preventing damage to the hair shaft.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0006] In one aspect of the disclosure, provided is a method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane onto wet or dry hair;
(b) applying water adjusted to an acidic pH to the hair; and
(c) heating the hair.
[0007] In another aspect of the disclosure, provided is a method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying a mixture comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride onto wet or dry hair; and
(b) heating the hair.
[0008] In a further aspect of the disclosure, provided is a composition comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, wherein the composition forms a protective, elastic outer layer when applied to hair and dried. [0009] Advantageous refinements of the invention, which can be implemented alone or in combination, are specified in the dependent claims.
[0010] In summary, the following embodiments are proposed as particularly preferred in the scope of the present invention:
[0011] Embodiment 1 : A method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane onto wet or dry hair,
(b) applying water adjusted to an acidic pH to the hair; and
(c) heating the hair.
[0012] Embodiment 2: The method according to embodiment 1, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
[0013] Embodiment 3: The method according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltri ethoxy silane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
[0014] Embodiment 4: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the water in step (b) has a pH of about 4-5.
[0015] Embodiment 5: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (c) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
[0016] Embodiment 6: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
[0017] Embodiment 7: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein the alkyltriethoxy silane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
[0018] Embodiment 8: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (b) comprises applying to the hair a solution of acetic acid, citric acid, or a buffered system.
[0019] Embodiment 9: The method according to any of the preceding embodiments, wherein step (a) comprises applying a solution containing about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane in a volatile or non-volatile solvent.
[0020] Embodiment 10: A method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying a mixture comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride onto wet or dry hair; and
(b) heating the hair.
[0021] Embodiment 11 : The method according to embodiment 10, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
[0022] Embodiment 12: The method according to embodiment 10 or 11, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
[0023] Embodiment 13: The method according to any of embodiments 10-12, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl group in the alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
[0024] Embodiment 14: The method according to any of embodiments 10-13, wherein step (b) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
[0025] Embodiment 15: The method according to any of embodiments 10-14, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
[0026] Embodiment 16: The method according to any of embodiments 10-15, wherein the alkyltriethoxy silane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
[0027] Embodiment 17: The method according to any of embodiments 10- 16, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and balance the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane.
[0028] Embodiment 18: The method according to any of embodiments 10-17, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxy silane.
[0029] Embodiment 19: A composition comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, wherein the composition forms a protective, elastic outer layer when applied to hair and dried.
[0030] Embodiment 20: The composition according to embodiment 19, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and the alkyl or alkenyl group in the at least one alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION
[0031] Aspects of the disclosure relate to methods for protection of the hair shaft prior to damage, thus retaining the original structure and prolonging the life span of hair. Such methods provide additional benefits by providing healthier appearance, strength, and shine when used on either damaged or undamaged hair.
[0032] By employing the methods described herein, a protective, elastic, non-penetrating outer layer is created on individual hair shafts which prevents the of loss of 18-MEA during chemical treatments, physical processing, and aging, and provides hair shaft integrity. This is achieved by applying to wet or dry hair alkyltriethoxysilanes with a sufficient number of carbon atoms such that penetration of the cuticle does not occur and the structural integrity of the hair shaft is maintained. After application, the alkyltriethoxysilane undergoes a hydrolysis and polymerization process on the outer surface of the hair shafts upon changing the pH from neutral to moderately acidic and applying heat. The appropriate alkyl group length, about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, is selected both because hydrophobic behavior is similar to 18-MEA and because the molecular dimensions are large enough to prevent penetration into the hair shaft. Accordingly, the alkyl group may have about 8, 9, 10, 11,
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, or 22 carbon atoms. The compatibility and performance of alkyltriethoxysilanes having about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms appears optimal and is presently preferred. Accordingly, preferred alkyltriethoxysilanes contain about 12, 13, 14, 15, or 16 carbon atoms. Once applied to the hair, hydrolyzed, and polymerized, a protective layer forms and the hair fibers remain as individual strands, i.e., they are not attached or connected by a continuous film, but rather manifest a smooth cohesive behavior and are better able to resist mechanical damage.
[0033] A first method for protecting hair according to the disclosure comprises applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane directly onto wet or dry hair, followed by applying to the hair water adjusted to an acidic pH, preferably a pH of about 4-5, and heating the hair. The term “long chain alkyltriethoxysilane” may be understood to encompass triethoxysilanes in which the carbon chain in the alkyl group contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms, as previously described. The hydrophobic alkyl portion of the alkyltri ethoxysilane forms a layer by hydrophobic interaction with the hydrocarbon chains of 18- MEA. After the alkyltri ethoxysilane is applied to the hair, it rapidly associates with the 18-MEA- rich outer layer and the triethoxy part of the silane is hydrolyzed by the application of the acidic water. This initiates hydrolysis of the silane, which then condenses and polymerizes upon application of heat using heating tools commonly found in a hair salon, such as a blow dryer, curling iron, and/or flat iron. The pH adjustment of the water may be accomplished by well-known methods, such as by forming dilute solutions of acetic acid, citric acid, or other acidic species, or by employing buffered systems, such as sodium acetate/acetic acid, so that such dilute solutions may be applied to the hair in the second step. Alternatively, the method may comprise first wetting the hair with water adjusted to an acidic pH, preferably a pH of about 4-5, and then applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane. However, this method requires more vigorous application to achieve uniform behavior.
[0034] A second method according to the disclosure for protecting hair comprises applying to the wet or dry hair a mixture containing primarily at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride. The term “long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride” may be understood to encompass succinic anhydrides in which the carbon chain in the alkyl or alkenyl group contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 carbons. Accordingly, the alkyl or alkenyl group may contain about 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, or 18 carbon atoms. The amount of succinic anhydride in the mixture is preferably at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt%, more preferably less than about 2 wt%. The amount of
triethoxysilane in the mixture is preferably about 50 wt% to about 99.5%. Thus, the mixture may contain only succinic anhydride and triethoxysilane (0.5 wt% to 10 wt% succinic anhydride and balance triethoxysilane) or may be a solution containing the two components in the preferred concentrations with balance water or a solvent as previously described This method eliminates the requirement of a separate application step of acidic water and the hair can be wetted before or after application. That is, the mixture may be applied to wet or dry hair. Following application of the mixture containing alkyltriethoxysilane and the alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, the components are further condensed by applying heat to the hair using heating tools commonly found in a hair salon.
[0035] It is also within the scope of the disclosure to apply the long-chain alkyltrialkoxy silanes to the hair in combination with known carriers or vehicles that do not hydrolyze the alkyltrialkoxysilanes prior to application to the hair. For example, formulations containing 5-60 wt% of the alkyltrialkoxy silane may be mixed with compatible non-volatile solvents, such as, but not limited to, 2-ethylhexylpalmitate or octyltrimethicone, or with volatile solvents, such as, but not limited to, propyltrimethicone or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Such solvents are appropriate when the alkoxysilane is administered alone or when mixed with the succinic anhydride, provided that the components are present in the solution in the desired amounts.
[0036] Hair treated by the methods according to the disclosure is protected from damage (such as environmental, physical stress, chemical treatment, and natural aging) and maintains the behavior of “healthy” hair, including combability, gloss, reduction of frizz, and smoothness of feel. Further, as a result of the non-penetrating outer layer formed on individual shafts, the protected individual strands of hair can move independently, yet, because they have similar physical properties, are able to move in a relatively cohesive manner, maintaining natural look and behavior. This is in stark contrast to the application of polymeric materials such as oligomeric condensation products of alkoxysilanes to hair, which leads to bridging between hair shafts. Such bridging does not occur to hair treated by the methods described herein.
[0037] The methods described herein are appropriate for treating all types of hair, including hair which is straight, wavy, curly, or kinky, hair which is virgin or has been bleached, colored, permed, relaxed, or undergone any other type of chemical or physical treatment, and hair of any form, shape, or length.
[0038] The invention will now be described in connection with the following non-limiting examples.
Example 1 : Application of n-octyltriethoxylsilane to virgin hair with acidic water and/or heat exposure
[0039] Sample Preparation: A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from H4IP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
[0040] Sample 1- Hair tress A weighing 4.0 g was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
[0041] Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane (CAS# 2943-75-1) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread throughout the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shafts. The treated hair tress was exposed to air at room temperature for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid was sprayed onto the tress. The tress was covered in plastic for 30 minutes, then dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat. When the tress was completely dry, it was combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0042] Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid until the hair was saturated. The hair tress was then sprayed with sufficient n-octyltriethoxysilane to saturate the hair. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was covered in plastic for 30 minutes, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0043] Sample 4 - Hair tress D was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was
washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
Analysis of Hair Tresses A-D
[0044] Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control (A) as an indication of frizz, with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz. Hair tress A (control) had a width of 13 cm. Hair tress B had a width of 7.5 cm, corresponding to a 42% reduction of frizz. Hair tress C had a width of 7.7 cm, corresponding to 40% reduction of frizz. Hair tress D had a width of 7.0 cm, corresponding to 46% reduction of frizz.
[0045] Samples B, C, and D showed defined curl, increased shine, and increased smoothness compared to Sample A (control); these properties were assessed and evaluated by individuals with expertise in the cosmetic industry. The following relationships were observed:
Smoothness: C > B > D,
Shine: D = C = B
[0046] SEM images were collected of samples A, B, C, and D. Samples B, C, and D showed the presence of silicone on the outer layer of the hair shaft by Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (EDS) analysis.
Example 2: Application of hexadecyltri ethoxysilane to bleached hair with acidic water and/or heat exposure
[0047] Sample Preparation'. A hair tress with virgin, frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was bleached twice with level 9 bleach using 40 volume developer. The hair tress was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
[0048] Sample 1- Hair tress A was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
[0049] Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of
the hair shaft. The treated hair tress was exposed to air at room temperature for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, water adjusted to pH 4.5 with acetic acid was sprayed onto the tress. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, then dried with a hair dryer on a high speed and high heat. When the tress was completely dried, it was combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0050] Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid to full saturation, then sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane in an amount sufficient to saturate the hair. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0051] Sample 4 - Hair tress D was sprayed with hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) until the hair was saturated. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 65%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
Analysis of Hair Tresses A-D
[0052] Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz. Hair tress A (control) had a width of about 11 cm. Hair tress B had a width of about 4.5 cm, corresponding to a 59 % reduction of frizz. Hair tress C had a width of about 5.0 cm, corresponding to a 55% reduction of frizz. Hair tress D had a width of about 8.0 cm, corresponding to a 27 % reduction of frizz.
[0053] Smoothness and shine were assessed and evaluated by individuals with expertise in the cosmetic industry. The following relationships were observed: samples B, C, and D demonstrated a
straightening effect compared to Sample A (control). Samples B, C, and D also showed increased shine and smoothness.
[0054] SEM images were collected of samples A, B, C, and D. Samples B, C, and D and showed the presence of silicone on the outer layer of the hair shaft by Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy (EDS) analysis.
Example 3: Application of hexadecyltriethoxysilane applied to hair with long-chain alkyl succinic anhydride application and heat exposure
[0055] Sample Preparation: A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
[0056] Sample 1- Hair tress A weighing 4.0 g was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
[0057] Sample 2 - Hair tress B was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% dodecenylsuccinic anhydride. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0058] Sample 3 - Hair tress C was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% hexadecenylsuccinic anhydride. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0059] Sample 4 - Hair tress D was saturated with water and then sprayed with a solution composed of 99% hexadecyltriethoxysilane (CAS#16415-13-7) and 1% octadecenylsuccinic anhydride (CAS# 28777-98-2). Using fingers, the material was spread onto the wet tress to cover the entire surface of the hair shaft. The hair tress was left to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5-inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
Analysis of Hair Tresses A-D
[0060] Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control (A) as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz. Hair tress A (control) had a width of 13 cm. Hair tress B had a width of about 7 cm, corresponding to a 46 % reduction of frizz. Hair tress C had a width of about 5 cm, corresponding to a 61.5 % reduction of frizz. Sample D had a width of about 5.5 cm, corresponding to a 57 % reduction.
[0061] Smoothness and shine were assessed and evaluated by individuals with expertise in the cosmetic industry. The following relationships were observed: sample C demonstrated a straightening effect compared to Sample A (control). Sample C also showed increased shine and smoothness.
Example 4: Application of various chain length alkyltri ethoxylsilanes and acidic water to hair followed by heat exposure
[0062] Sample Preparation: A virgin tress with frizzy, and kinky hair (curl pattern type IV) 4 inches wide and 6 inches long (purchased from IHIP) was washed with generic shampoo, air-dried, and cut into four strips of 1 inch each labeled A, B, C, and D.
[0063] Sample 1- Hair tress A was washed with shampoo and conditioner and left to air dry. This sample is referred to as the control.
[0064] Sample 2 - Hair tress B was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with n-octyltriethoxysilane (CAS# 2943-75-1) to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections
using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0065] Sample 3 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with isooctyltriethoxysilane to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
[0066] Sample 4 - Hair tress C was sprayed with water adjusted to pH 4.5 with citric acid until the hair was saturated, then the hair tress was sprayed with hexadecyltri ethoxy silane to full saturation. Using fingers, the material was spread onto the tress to distribute over the entire surface of the hair shaft. The tress was allowed to react for 30 minutes covered in plastic, dried with a hair dryer on high speed and high heat, then combed and flat ironed at 410°F in 0.5 inch sections using 5-7 passes. The tress was washed with shampoo and conditioner after 24 hours and air-dried at room temperature with a relative humidity of 67%. Treated hair showed increased shine, substantial reduction in frizz, and increased smoothness, which aided in dry combing.
Analysis of Hair Tresses A-D
[0067] Hair tresses A through D were laid flat on a surface and a measurement was taken at the widest area. The width measurements of the treated hair were compared to the control as an indication of frizz with a wider hair tress corresponding to more frizz. Hair tress A (control) had a width of 12 cm. Hair tress B had a width of 6.8 cm, corresponding to a 43% reduction of frizz. Hair tress C had a width of 6.0 cm, corresponding to 50% reduction of frizz. Hair tress D had a width of 5.1 cm, corresponding to 58% reduction of frizz.
[0068] Smoothness and shine were assessed and evaluated by individuals with expertise in the cosmetic industry. The following relationships were observed.
[0069] Samples B, C, and D show increased shine and increased smoothness compared to Sample A (control). Smoothness: C >D >B, Shine: D = C = B.
[0070] SEM images were collected of samples A, B, C, and D. Samples B, C, and D showed the presence of silicone on the outer layer of the hair shaft by EDS analysis.
[0071] It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes could be made to the embodiments described above without departing from the broad inventive concept thereof. It is understood, therefore, that this invention is not limited to the particular embodiments disclosed, but it is intended to cover modifications within the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended claims.
Claims
1. A method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane onto wet or dry hair,
(b) applying water adjusted to an acidic pH to the hair; and
(c) heating the hair.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltri ethoxy silane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
4. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the water in step (b) has a pH of about 4-5.
5. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein step (c) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
6. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
7. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the alkyltriethoxy silane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
8. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein step (b) comprises applying to the hair a solution of acetic acid, citric acid, or a buffered system.
9. The method according to any of the preceding claims, wherein step (a) comprises applying a solution containing about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxy silane in a volatile or non-volatile solvent.
10. A method of protecting hair comprising:
(a) applying a mixture comprising at least one long chain alkyltriethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride onto wet or dry hair; and
(b) heating the hair.
11. The method according to claim 10, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
12. The method according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltri ethoxy silane contains about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms.
13. The method according to any of claims 10-12, wherein the alkyl or alkenyl group in the alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
14. The method according to any of claims 10-13, wherein step (b) comprises applying heat from a blow dryer, a curling iron, and/or a flat iron.
15. The method according to any of claims 10-14, wherein the protected hair has a protective, elastic outer layer.
16. The method according to any of claims 10-15, wherein the alkyltri ethoxysilane is hydrolyzed and polymerized on a surface of the hair to form a protective coating.
17. The method according to any of claims 10-16, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and balance the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane.
18. The method according to any of claims 10-17, wherein the mixture contains at least about 0.5 wt% and less than about 10 wt% of the at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride and about 5 to 60 wt% of the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane.
19. A composition comprising at least one long chain alkyltri ethoxysilane and at least one long chain alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride, wherein the composition forms a protective, elastic outer layer when applied to hair and dried.
20. The composition according to claim 19, wherein the alkyl group in the at least one alkyltriethoxysilane contains about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms and the alkyl or alkenyl group in the at least one alkyl or alkenyl succinic anhydride contains about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms.
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PCT/US2021/064289 WO2023121639A1 (en) | 2021-12-20 | 2021-12-20 | Methods and compositions for the protection of hair |
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EP (1) | EP4447922A1 (en) |
KR (1) | KR20240116518A (en) |
CN (1) | CN118475338A (en) |
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KR20060134988A (en) * | 2004-04-07 | 2006-12-28 | 카오카부시키가이샤 | Hair-treating agent and methods of treating hair |
JP5238276B2 (en) * | 2008-02-07 | 2013-07-17 | 花王株式会社 | Hair treatment agent |
US8470064B2 (en) | 2010-04-12 | 2013-06-25 | Leseman Davis, Llc | Device, method, and system to separate liquid and particulate matter from the air stream of a centrifugal fan |
FR2966356B1 (en) * | 2010-10-26 | 2015-12-18 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY CHAIN ALCOXYSILANE AND AN ALCOXYSILANE DIFFERENT FROM THE FIRST |
US10487242B2 (en) | 2016-08-11 | 2019-11-26 | Gelest Technologies, Inc. | Stabilized solutions of alkylalkoxysilane hydrolysates and flexible films formed thereof |
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KR20240116518A (en) | 2024-07-29 |
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