EP4362744A1

EP4362744A1 - Applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product, obtained by moulding a biomaterial, and associated biomaterial

Info

Publication number: EP4362744A1
Application number: EP21751863.8A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Eric DE BARDONNECHE; Philippe COMBRONDE; Stephan WENDEL PACCAGNELLA
Original assignee: Hcp Packaging; Societe Industrielle de Matieres Plastiques; Aesop Technologies Inc
Current assignee: Hcp Packaging; Societe Industrielle de Matieres Plastiques; Aesop Technologies Inc
Priority date: 2021-06-30
Filing date: 2021-06-30
Publication date: 2024-05-08
Also published as: WO2023275581A1

Abstract

The applicator device 14 for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or an epidermis is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterial, that is injection moulded.

Description

APPLICATOR DEVICE FOR APPLYING A FLUID OR PASTY COSMETIC PRODUCT, OBTAINED BY MOULDING A BIOMATERIAL, AND ASSOCIATED

BIOMATERIAL

TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The invention relates to the field of applicator devices for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or to an epidermis. In particular, the invention relates to an applicator device for applying a cosmetic, makeup or care product to the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin or the lips. In addition, the invention also relates to a biomaterial for moulding such an applicator device.

PRIOR ART

[0002] There currently exist applicator devices for applying a product of the fluid or pasty type to keratin fibres, such as mascara brushes, for example, comprising a central core of elongate shape extending along a longitudinal axis and at least one row of elongate spikes comprising a first end embedded in the core and a second free end. Usually, the spikes and the core are formed in one piece by moulding and are integral with one another. For example, the document FR 2937514 describes such applicator devices. In particular, this type of applicator device is obtained by moulding at least one thermoplastic elastomer material such as Hytrel®, which is the preferred material for this type of production of applicator devices by moulding. From a chemical point of view, thermoplastics such as Hytrel® are ether ester copolymers (COPE) belonging to the family of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) materials. For the moulding of devices for applying a cosmetic product, a thermoplastic such as Hytrel® provides a very good compromise between its mechanical characteristics, its chemical stability with respect to the composition of the cosmetic product used, and the makeup finish effect, in particular for the eyelashes.

[0003] In spite of their advantages for manufacturing devices for applying a cosmetic product, the TPEs, such as Hytrel®, that are currently available on the market no longer comply with the new environmental standards imposed by major cosmetic product brands around the world. Specifically, mindful of better respecting the environment, these cosmetic brands wish to reduce the environmental impact of the plastics materials used to manufacture cosmetic packaging and of all the components used to produce a makeup device. This therefore applies to devices for applying a cosmetic product. This makes it necessary to limit the use of fossil resources by using materials that have the lowest possible impact in terms of CO2, while accelerating the transition towards a circular economy (100% recycling and reuse of packaging and of the components after they have been used).

[0004] Other thermoplastic elastomer materials originating from fossil resources exist and are used to manufacture devices for applying a cosmetic product. For example, the document FR 3 046 340 provides an exhaustive list thereof and can be consulted for more information.

[0005] Moreover, the above also applies to devices for applying a “gloss” or “concealer” (or pasty product), for example those described in the document US 7 866 906. In that document, the applicator has to pick up the pasty product contained in a closed container via an orifice, and pass through this orifice in a manner loaded with product, in order to apply it to the user’s lips. To this end, the applicator device itself is of variable shape and geometry. This applicator is a single applicator and is flocked, meaning that it has a rough outer surface. This flocking consists in microfibres being attached to all or part of the outer surface of the applicator.

[0006] In addition, the above also applies to an applicator device as described in the document WO 2013/153528, which discloses a cosmetic product applicator device that tapers and is flat, therefore comprising two main application surfaces and at least three openings defined by four longitudinal, transverse or oblique arms. Various geometries corresponding to this definition are shown; this is therefore a flat applicator device, one or the other of the flat main surfaces of which can be used to apply the product.

[0007]Applicator devices of this kind are also described in the document EP 3 193 663. [0008]As a result, there is a need for an ecological material that does not use fossil resources such as petroleum, while performing at least the same, or even better, in terms of the makeup effect and resistance to/compatibility with the cosmetic product, in a similar manner to what is obtained with a TPE such as Hytrel®.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] The invention aims to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art by allowing the production of an applicator device for applying a cosmetic product that is produced by moulding an ecological and recyclable material that has a zero, if not negative, carbon footprint (also known as Life Cycle Analysis, or

LCA). Thus, the invention has the advantage of reducing contamination as far as possible within the limits of the current knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0010]To this end, the invention provides an applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or an epidermis, which is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterial, that is injection moulded.

[0011] Advantageously, but optionally, the device according to the invention has or comprises at least one of the following technical features: - the biomaterial originates from a non-food biomass;

- the biomaterial is designed to have a carbon footprint score less than or equal to 0 kg CC>2-eq;

- the biomaterial does not contain any additions of materials originating from fossil resources; - the biomass makes up at least 50% of the biomaterial; the biomass makes up at least 60% of the biomaterial; the biomass makes up at least 80% of the biomaterial; the biomaterial exhibits a tensile strength less than 10 MPa;

- the biomaterial exhibits an elongation at break less than 490%;

- the device has an elongate core extending along a longitudinal main axis XX and having a longitudinal cylindrical shape, and a plurality of spikes distributed over said core;

- each spike extends from an end anchored in the core to a free end and is formed integrally with said core;

- the core is made of a first biomaterial and the spikes of a second biomaterial; - the device also has a stem extending in the continuation of the core along the longitudinal main axis XX; and

- the device also has a cap mounted on the stem.

[0012]The invention also provides a makeup assembly having an applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty product to keratin fibres or an epidermis and having an applicator device having at least one of the above technical features, a reservoir and a wiping device mounted on a neck of the reservoir.

[0013] Advantageously, but optionally, the assembly according to the invention has or comprises at least one of the following technical features:

- the wiping device is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as a biomaterial, that is injection moulded; and

- the wiping device is made of two mouldable materials originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterials, that are injection moulded, the two biomaterials being different at least in terms of their mechanical characteristics. [0014] The invention also provides a biomaterial for manufacturing an applicator device having at least one of the above technical features or for manufacturing the wiping device of the makeup assembly having at least one of the above technical features, the biomaterial comprising the following composition:

- one or more sugars, alone or as a mixture,

- one or more waxes, alone or as a mixture, - mineral additives, selected and incorporated singly or as a mixture.

[0015] Advantageously, but optionally, the biomaterial according to the invention has or comprises at least the following technical feature: the biomaterial optionally comprises cellulose and /or lignin. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0016] Further features and advantages of the invention will become apparent from reading the following description with reference to the appended drawings, in which:

[Fig .1 ] illustrates a perspective view of a known makeup assembly having a cosmetic product applicator device according to the invention;

[Fig.2] illustrates a perspective view of the applicator device in Figure 1 according to one of a number of embodiments;

[Fig.3] illustrates a comparative graph of the elongation of a spike of the applicator device in Figure 1 as a function of tensile stress; and [Fig.4] illustrates an enlarged graph of a part of the comparative graph in Figure

3.

[0017] For greater clarity, identical or similar elements are provided with identical reference signs throughout the figures. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF AN EMBODIMENT

[0018] Figure 1 illustrates a makeup assembly for applying a fluid or pasty product such as a cosmetic makeup product, which is known per se. This assembly comprises a container or reservoir 10 having a neck 5 and a wiping device 11 disposed in the neck 5. This assembly also comprises a stem 12, a cap or gripping handle 13, and an applicator device 14 for applying a cosmetic product, these being fastened together to form an assembly that is removable from the reservoir 10 and the wiping seal 11 . All of the elements set out above generally exhibit symmetry of revolution about the longitudinal main axis XX of the makeup assembly, unless indicated otherwise below.

[0019] Without departing from the scope of the invention, the cosmetic product contained inside the reservoir 10 could be liquid or semi-liquid; various applications can be envisaged. In particular, the cosmetic product contained in the reservoir 10 is a product as defined in Regulation EC 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and Council of 30 November 2009 relating to cosmetic products, and directive EU 94_62_EC, the US standard “California Proposition 65” or “REACH”. More generally, the cosmetic product intended to be applied by the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention can also be in the form of a powder or of a solid. It remains preferably in the form of a fluid or paste. It is a product intended to be deposited on a user’s keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or eyebrows: for example a mascara.

[0020] With reference to Figure 2, an embodiment of the applicator device 14 will be described. The applicator device 14 according to the invention is, in this case, a mascara brush. It comprises, in this case, a core 2 that extends longitudinally along a longitudinal main axis XX. The core 2 may have a cross section that is or is not constant along its length. In the most common embodiments either the cross section is constant or the cross section decreases from a proximal end engaged with a gripping handle and/or tube to a distal free end. Generally, the core 2 has a cylindrical overall shape, preferably exhibiting symmetry of revolution about an axis, the longitudinal main axis XX. Thus, the cross section of the core 2 may have a circular, polygonal, oval or other shape. It may be axisymmetric. The core 2 may be solid or hollow. A person skilled in the art will choose the most appropriate core depending on the economic and/or technical constraints. [0021] Moreover, the applicator device 14 according to the invention has a plurality of spikes 15 distributed over the core 2. The spikes 15 protrude from an external peripheral surface of the core 2. The spikes 15 are, for example, integral with the core 2. In particular, the spikes 15 are obtained by moulding with the core 2. In this case, as illustrated, the spikes 15 are distributed in adjacent rows in pairs extending longitudinally in a manner parallel to the longitudinal main axis XX. The spikes 15 in one and the same row extend in the same way with one and the same orientation, parallel to one another, from the core 2. In this case, considering two adjacent rows, the spikes 15 in one of the adjacent rows are oriented differently from the spikes 15 in the other of the adjacent rows, for example, as illustrated in Figure 1 , at 180°. As a variant, the orientation is 90°. Other shapes and/or arrangements of spikes 15 are possible without departing from the scope of the invention and are widely documented in the documents already published on this subject.

[0022] According to the invention, the cosmetic product applicator device 14 is obtained by moulding a biomaterial. The other elements of the makeup assembly can also be made of biomaterial.

[0023]The biomaterial used to produce the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention is a mouldable material obtained from at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, and even more preferably at least 80% biomass. This biomass originates from plants not intended for human consumption. In particular, the biomass used for obtaining the mouldable biomaterial comes mainly from production waste from wood processing facilities. The process for converting this biomass makes it possible to obtain a mouldable biomaterial which, after being used, can be recycled in the conventional recycling sector, known as the “poubelle jaune” in France, which deals, among other things, with cardboard, paper and certain plastics. Thus, the injection-mouldable biomaterial obtained in this way does not make use of an addition of fossil resources, such as petroleum (also known as “mass balance”).

[0024]The invention also relates to a novel material, namely the mouldable biomaterial according to the invention. This biomaterial has mechanical and physical properties that are comparable with products well known to a person skilled in the art and in particular ether ester copolymers such as the one known as Hytrel® that is described above.

[0025] For the applications of the invention, the biomaterial used has the following composition:

- one or more sugars, alone or in a mixture,

- one or more waxes, alone or in a mixture,

- mineral additives, selected and incorporated singly or as a mixture,

- optionally cellulose, - Optionally lignin.

[0026] The presence of cellulose can confer greater hardness on the biomaterial, equivalent to that observed for ether ester copolymers such as Hytrel®, for example, namely between 37 ShoreD and 63 ShoreD, the hardness being decisive for the performance and comfort of application of the cosmetic product and thus the makeup finish effect for example.

[0027] For the production of the invention, cellulose originates from a biomass which is a renewable plant resource that is not intended for human consumption.

[0028] According to a preferred embodiment, the material according to the invention has a density less than 1 , preferably less than 0.95, and thus confers better buoyancy on the devices according to the invention. Specifically, by way of comparison, the ether ester copolymers have a density greater than or equal to 1.

[0029]The mouldable biomaterials for producing the applicator device 14 for applying the cosmetic product according to the invention have been developed with the company Aesop Technologies, Inc., and bear the names Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X, Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X and Advanced LW-AB® 2705 X.

[0030] From the point of view of the carbon footprint (or LCA for Life Cycle Analysis), the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X has a score of -0.7 kg C0₂-eq (for kilogram of CO2 equivalent) and the biomaterial Advanced LW- AB® 4717 X has a score of -2.5 kg C0₂-eq. By comparison, the materials of the TPE type, such as Hytrel®, which are available industrially for moulding cosmetic product applicator devices mostly originate from fossil resources and consequently have a positive score in terms of kg C0₂-eq, in particular between +1 and +3 kg C0₂-eq depending on the grades of TPE such as Hytrel® or SEBS, in contrast to the abovementioned biomaterials according to the invention, which have a negative score.

[0031] It should be noted that the evaluation of the carbon footprint (LCA) is subject to numerous different standards in force, which will not be listed here but remain accessible to a person skilled in the art.

[0032] From a point of view of the mechanical characteristics, these materials have the following characteristics:

Table 1 - Mechanical properties [0033]The first point that becomes apparent from Table 1 is that the materials used have different mechanical properties, but this is not the case for their hardness, which is relatively equal and around 90-96 ShoreA. It is therefore no longer necessary to use this hardness as a basis, as is conventional for the choice of TPEs such as Hytrel®, to choose the biomaterial suitable for producing the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention depending on the desired makeup effects.

[0034] In order to compare the biomaterials in table 1 with certain formulations of Hytrel®, tests were carried out on simplified spikes 15, meaning that the latter have a cylindrical shape with a cross-sectional area of around 0.31 mm². This corresponds to the average of the cross-sectional areas of the spikes located on the core 2 of the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention.

[0035] To this end, the following materials were used to produce these spikes:

- Hytrel® 4068 from Dupont™;

- Hytrel® 5526 from Dupont™;

- Hytrel® 51 SHD from Dupont™;

- NBR 70 ShoreA;

- 4713 X from Aesop;

- 4717 x from Aesop;

- 2705 X from Aesop; and

- Mix 4717 X/4713 Xfrom Aesop in 50/50 proportions.

[0036]The elastomer NBR 70 ShoreA is, in a manner known per se, a nitrile rubber, also known as buna-N, in particular an acrylonitrile (ACN) and butadiene synthetic elastomer rubber having a hardness of 70 ShoreA.

[0037] The tests and simulations were carried out with tensile stresses of between 0 and 45 MPa. The elongation was measured for each of the spikes made of the abovementioned materials, at ambient temperature.

[0038] In Figure 3, the elongation results for tension of between 0 and 12 MPa have been plotted, since they correspond to a desired functioning of a mascara brush equipped with the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention. In Figure 4, an “enlargement” of the result curves is shown for tension of between 4.5 and 7.5 MPa, corresponding to normal functioning of a mascara brush equipped with the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention.

[0039] It is clearly apparent from these two figures that the biomaterials 4713X, 4717x, 2705X and a mix between 4713X and 4717X behave mechanically in a similar manner to the comparative Hytrels® and in particular Hytrel® 4068, which is the one most commonly used for cosmetic product applicator devices 14.

[0040] The relatively constant hardness (90-95 ShoreA) among the biomaterials tested is comparable with that of Hytrel®4068 (around 35 ShoreD) or Hytrel® (around 53 ShoreD), knowing that, on the ShoreD measurement scale, a hardness of 90 ShoreA corresponds substantially to a hardness of 35 to 40 ShoreD. In the context of biomaterials, hardness is no longer a selection criterion for producing the cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention and in particular the spikes 15.

[0041] From a point of view of chemical compatibility with current cosmetic compositions, the abovementioned biomaterials and more generally the family thereof exhibit excellent integrity. Specifically, the biomaterials according to the invention interact very little, if at all, with the cosmetic composition contained in the reservoir 10. Thus, the biomaterials according to the invention have the advantage of being safe materials from a user’s health point of view since they do not give rise to unidentified degradation products that are potentially toxic in the medium to long term.

[0042] When a cosmetic product applicator device 14 according to the invention produced by moulding a biomaterial is used in a full test panel (made up of 25 users), better performance in terms of makeup effect is found. The Proprietor has thus confirmed, following the test panel, that the comfort of application to the eyelashes or eyebrows was better than that achieved using an applicator device for applying a cosmetic product which is identical in terms of shape and size and moulded from TPE materials such as Hytrel® that are commonly used nowadays. The combination of a formulation for dyeing or treating keratin fibres with an applicator device 14 for applying a cosmetic product according to the invention having spikes moulded from one of the biomaterials from the company Aesop Technologies makes the hand movements used for applying makeup more fluid and comfortable by reducing the application effort, with a reduced application force, more comfortable gliding over the eyelashes, and a new “touch” sensation. Moreover, more rapid transfer of a load of cosmetic product has been found. Thus, this improvement in the finish and the hand movements for applying makeup is due to the consistent mechanical properties of the chemistry of the biomaterials presented.

[0043] In addition, the resistance to and compatibility with the cosmetic product are similar to those obtained with a TPE such as Hytrel®, without having the latter’s drawbacks of not being recyclable. Specifically, the biomaterials from the company Aesop Technologies that are used are entirely compatible with conventional sectors, in particular those associated with recycling.

[0044] Although the description is illustrated with an applicator device 14 corresponding to a mascara brush, all the above applies to any applicator device for applying a cosmetic product, in particular to an epidermis, such as a “gloss” or flat applicator device, which is producible from one or more biomaterials according to the invention.

[0045] In addition, remaining within the field of cosmetics and in particular that of mascara brushes, the makeup assembly in Figure 1 comprises, among other things as described above, a container or reservoir 10 and a wiping device 11 . Biomaterials are usable to produce these elements. In particular the wiping device 11 is also known as a wiper, the function of which is to “wipe” the applicator device 14 as it is withdrawn from the reservoir 10 in order that said applicator device 14 only retains an optimal quantity of cosmetic product to be applied. This wiping device 11 is producible from a biomaterial according to the invention as described above.

[0046] For example, the documents FR 3 005 835, WO2018/069217 and W02021/019131 describe two-part wiping devices 11. It is possible to refer thereto for more information. These wiping devices described in those documents are formed from two parts that are joined together: a part known as the upper part allowing the wiping device 11 to be fixed in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10, and a lower part forming the wiping lip attached to the upper part. The upper part needs to have mechanical properties that allow secure retention in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10: it is produced, for example, by injection moulding the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X. The lower part forming the wiping lip needs to have a degree of “flexibility” to allow the applicator device 14 to pass through more easily while leaving an optimal quantity of cosmetic product thereon: it is produced, for example, by injection moulding the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X.

[0047] According to another embodiment of the wiping device 11, described for example in the documents ITMI20041513 and FR 2826246, to which reference may be made for more information, the wiping device 11 is in one piece and formed from two materials distributed so as to produce an upper part for fixing the wiping device 11 in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10 and a lower part forming the wiping lip. As above, the upper part needs to have mechanical characteristics that allow secure retention in the neck 5 of the reservoir 10: it is produced, for example, from the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4713 X. The lower part forming the wiping lip needs to have a degree of “flexibility” to allow the applicator device 14 to pass through more easily while leaving an optimal quantity of cosmetic product thereon: it is produced, for example, from the biomaterial Advanced LW-AB® 4717 X. The wiping device 11 is produced by injection moulding the two biomaterials either simultaneously in one and the same mould, or successively by overmoulding one of the biomaterials over the other of the biomaterials.

[0048] Of course, it is possible to make numerous modifications to the invention without departing from the scope thereof.

Claims

1. Applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty cosmetic product to keratin fibres or an epidermis, characterized in that the applicator device is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterial, that is injection moulded.

2. Device according to Claim 1, characterized in that the biomaterial originates from a non-food biomass.

3. Device according to Claim 2, characterized in that the biomaterial is designed to have a carbon footprint score less than or equal to 0 kg C0₂-eq.

4. Device according to Claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the biomaterial does not contain any additions of materials originating from fossil resources.

5. Device according to Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the biomass makes up at least 50% of the biomaterial.

6. Device according to Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the biomass makes up at least 60% of the biomaterial.

7. Device according to Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the biomass makes up at least 80% of the biomaterial.

8. Device according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the biomaterial exhibits a tensile strength less than 10 MPa.

9. Device according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the biomaterial exhibits an elongation at break less than 490%.

10. Device according to one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the device has an elongate core extending along a longitudinal main axis XX and having a longitudinal cylindrical shape, and a plurality of spikes distributed over said core.

11. Device according to Claim 10, characterized in that each spike extends from an end anchored in the core to a free end and is formed integrally with said core.

12. Device according to Claim 10 or 11 , characterized in that the core is made of a first biomaterial and the spikes of a second biomaterial.

13. Device according to one of Claims 10 to 12, characterized in that it also has a stem extending in the continuation of the core along the longitudinal main axis XX.

14. Device according to Claim 13, characterized in that it also has a cap mounted on the stem.

15. Makeup assembly having an applicator device for applying a fluid or pasty product to keratin fibres or an epidermis according to one of Claims 1 to 14, a reservoir and a wiping device mounted on a neck of the reservoir.

16. Assembly according to Claim 15, characterized in that the wiping device is made of a mouldable material originating from a biomass, also known as a biomaterial, that is injection moulded.

17. Assembly according to Claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the wiping device is made of two mouldable materials originating from a biomass, also known as biomaterials, that are injection moulded, the two biomaterials being different at least in terms of their mechanical characteristics.

18. Biomaterial for manufacturing a device according to Claims 1 to 14 or the wiping device of the assembly according to Claims 15 to 17, characterized in that it comprises the following composition:

- one or more sugars, alone or as a mixture,

- one or more waxes, alone or as a mixture, - mineral additives selected and incorporated singly or as a mixture.

19. Biomaterial according to Claim 18, characterized in that it optionally comprises cellulose and/or lignin.