EP3768110A1

EP3768110A1 - Piece of jewellery, method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, and associated mounting pin

Info

Publication number: EP3768110A1
Application number: EP19712984.4A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Philippe Vitau
Original assignee: Hamard Vitau
Current assignee: Hamard Vitau
Priority date: 2018-03-21
Filing date: 2019-03-21
Publication date: 2021-01-27
Anticipated expiration: 2039-03-21
Also published as: WO2019180116A1; EP3768110B1; US20210022460A1; US11357296B2; CN112188848B; FR3079116B1; FR3079116A1; CN112188848A

Abstract

The round stone is intended for being inserted contiguously with other similar stones to as to conceal the setting of the stones. Facets 13 are bevel-formed between the girdle (4) and the pavilion (3). Grooves 14, open at the two ends 18 thereof, are formed, for example by sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis, in the facets (13) to receive the setting claws.

Description

Piece of jewelry, process for trimming a stone, especially a diamond, and associated mount picot.

The present invention relates to a piece of jewelry including stones, including diamonds, round and in particular circular.

The present invention also relates to a method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, for its integration into the piece of jewelry.

The present invention further relates to a mounting pin for supporting a stone of the piece of jewelry.

The pieces of jewelry covered by the invention may be rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces or necklaces, earrings, hair ornaments, buttons, etc., or objects other than intended for the adornment of the body, in other words any object adorned with precious or semi-precious stones, in particular diamonds.

The round shape, in particular circular, must be understood in the broad sense, this form can be carried out approximately by multiple flat polygons. Said round shape is understood as opposed to a "square", "rectangular" shape or any other geometry with sides whose presence is dominant for the overall visual effect.

Numerous documents (EP 0196 455 B1, EP 0201 394 A1, EP 0276183 A1, FR 2 580 541 A1, FR 2 609 605 A1) describe jewelery pieces in which square stones are mounted in a contiguous manner, at the same time. way of a pavement, concealing the mount located below the periphery of the stones, called "feuilletis". This is done most often by means of notches formed in the edges of the lower part of the stones, called "breech", which is generally pyramidal shape for square stones. The mount has conformations engaging these notches. Once mounted, the stones are wedged against each other, square side against square side. The object of the invention is to allow the concealment of the frame for a piece of jewelry comprising round stones, typically a carpet of round stones.

According to a first aspect of the invention, the piece of jewelery with:

At least one stone, in particular a diamond, having a visible face of generally round shape and a cylinder head in the general shape of a cone having an axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral laminate, and

■ a mount essentially located on the side of the breech and having claws to support the stone,

is characterized in that

■ the leaflet has a certain height measured parallel to the axis;

■ the stone has at least three facets overlapping the leaflet and the breech locally forming a bevel between the cylinder head and the leaflet; and

Each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely with respect to the axis and receiving a spout of one of said claws.

The yoke has a relatively open aperture angle dictated by the search for optimal refraction of light. Thanks to the facet whose slope is steeper, the attack of a machining tool is facilitated. In addition, a groove of less depth is sufficient to provide the claw of the mount a socket for holding the stone firmly. The at least three claws provided positively position the stone independently of neighboring stones.

Typically the laminate is of cylindrical general shape. A cylindrical leaflet is favorable to the size of the bevel facet.

According to an advantageous embodiment, in each facet the associated groove is open at both ends through a respective lateral edge of the facet. This configuration of the facet allows a perfect cleaning of the groove after machining. This is important for the purity of the effects bright in the piece of jewelry. In particular, the groove may have a substantially constant profile over its entire length, from one open end to the other.

In one embodiment the bottom of the groove extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, in particular parallel to the plane of the facet. This embodiment is simple and effective to allow a good grip of the claw in the groove.

In an advantageous embodiment the groove is formed in a plane perpendicular to the axis. It may for example be a sawing practiced in said plane.

The bottom of the groove is typically a surface parallel to the axis. This is achieved for example with sawing in a plane perpendicular to the axis as mentioned above.

In a preferred embodiment the stone has four facets and four grooves.

In one embodiment, the angle between the axis and a median of facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40 °. This is about 10 ° less than the half-angle at the top of the cylinder head of a conventional round diamond.

Preferably, the facets leave the laminate intact around the periphery of the upper face. In this way, the existence of the facets does not affect the appearance of the stone after it has been assembled in the piece of jewelery.

In one embodiment, the facets locally reduce the height of the laminate to a non-zero value. This is favorable for a stable contact point between adjacent stones. According to one embodiment, the facets are grouped in pairs of adjacent facets arranged in a V with respect to each other, the pairs being spaced apart from each other, preferably regularly distributed around the axis.

In particular for small stones, the mount comprises for each pair of facets two aforementioned claws having a common foot, separated from the foot of the at least one other pair of claws. But it is also possible, especially for larger stones, the mount comprises for each facet a claw connected to the base independently of the other claws.

In one embodiment the frame comprises a plate and, for each stone mentioned above, a pin carrying the claws associated with this stone. Preferably the pin comprises latching means in a respective recess of the plate.

Preferably, the claws associated with the same stone are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the rock by snapping the stone between the associated claws. This facilitates assembly operations of the piece of jewelry.

Typically, in the piece of jewelery the stones are mounted with contact or quasi-contact between the sheets of the neighboring stones. This is the best way to hide the frame on the piece of jewelery assembled. The stones being round, they are not in contact with each other all around their periphery but only at certain points of contact or quasi-contact. Preferably, the claws are located below these points of contact or quasi-contact between layers, rather than below areas where the neighboring stones leave a space between them.

According to a second aspect of the invention, the method for cutting a stone, in particular a diamond, for producing a piece of jewelery according to the preceding aspect or any of its improvements or combination of improvements, the stone having a visible face of generally round shape and a cylinder head generally shaped like a cone having a axis, separated from the visible face by a peripheral sheet, is characterized in that

■ cut into the stone at least three facets overlapping the leaf and the breech locally forming a bevel between the cylinder head and the leaflet; and

Each facet is hollowed out with a groove extending transversely with respect to the axis.

Preferably the operation of size facets remains below an upper limit of the leaflet, so as not to affect the appearance of the stone as seen on the piece of jewelry finished.

In one embodiment of the method, before cutting the facets is subdivided the periphery of the stone so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis around its entire periphery and jointly show or enlarge an axial height of the leaflet. This facilitates the realization of the facets and allows to give them a steeper slope that will facilitate the machining of the groove.

Typically the grooves are formed by sawing, in particular in a plane perpendicular to the axis.

In one embodiment the sawing is deep enough so that the groove has an undercut retaining face along its opposite edge to the laminate.

According to a third aspect of the invention, the jewelery frame peg according to the first aspect or any one of its improvements or combinations of improvements, is characterized in that it comprises:

A common base equipped with latching means in a plate; and

■ at least three claws distributed around an axis, each having a snap-nose directed towards the axis, and able to deviate from one another by elastic bending. In one embodiment the pin comprises an even number of claws, grouped in pairs of adjacent claws, the pairs being evenly distributed around the axis.

In particular for mounting small stones, the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a common foot, separate from the foot of the at least one other pair. Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description below, relating to non-limiting examples.

In the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 is a partial elevational view of a piece of jewelery according to the invention, with the platen cut;

Figure 2 is a partial top view of the jewelery piece of Figure 1, the right portion of the Figure showing only the platen;

Figure 3 is a perspective view of a stone of the jewelery piece of Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 4 is an elevational view of the stone of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is another elevational view of the stone of Figure 3;

Figure 6 is a bottom view of the stone of Figures 3 to 5;

Figure 7 is a perspective view of a pin of the bezel of the jewelery of Figures 1 and 2;

Figure 8 is a top view of the pin of Figure 7;

Figure 9 is a sectional view along IX - IX of Figure 8;

Figure 10 is a perspective view of the stone of Figures 3 to 6 mounted on the pin of Figures 7 to 9;

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 10 but with a smaller stone and a second embodiment of the pin;

Fig. 12 is an elevational view showing the stone and the pin in a third embodiment of the pin;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the pin of Fig. 12; and

Fig. 14 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the pin. The present description extends to the embodiments described but also to any particularity or combination of features, in the terms used or in more general terms, even if these particularities or combinations of particularities come from a part of a sentence, a part of of paragraph, or of several parts of a sentence or paragraph, where the particularity or combination of features differs from the state of the art and produces an advantage over the state of the art.

In the example of FIGS. 1 and 2, the piece of jewelery comprises several stones 1, in particular diamonds, which have a plan view (FIG. 2) of a round shape, in particular a circular shape. Each stone 1 has a visible face 2 and a yoke 3 separated from the visible face by a laminate 4 which forms the periphery of the stone and defines its diameter which is typically a few mm, for example here 4.7mm. The laminate is here cylindrical. The yoke 3 is generally conical along an axis 6 which constitutes the axis of the stone and in particular the axis of the laminate 4 and the axis of the visible face 2. The conical general shape is here defined by multiple polygons (triangles) plans, in a classic way in jewelry. In the embodiment shown, the stones 1 are adjacent to each other and in particular are in contact or quasi-mutual contact by their laminates 4, in contact or quasi-contact bridges 7.

The piece of jewelery further comprises a frame 8 essentially located on the side of the cylinder head 3 of the stones and having claws 9 to support the stones. In one embodiment the claws 9 belong to pins 27 each assigned to a respective one of the stones, and which each carry four claws 9. The frame 8 further comprises an underlying plate 26, in which are fixed the pins 27, d a way which will be described in detail later.

With reference to FIGS. 3 to 6, the preferred stone for the implementation of the invention will be described in more detail. The leaflet 4 has a certain height measured parallel to the axis, the average value of which is indicated by h (FIG. 4), the precise height being fluctuating along the rounded circumference created by the intersection of the laminate cylinder with the planes of the polygons defining the conical shape and other planar faces present around the perimeter of the visible face 2 of the stone.

The stone further comprises, for each claw, a facet 13 which overlaps the laminate 4 and the yoke 3 locally forming a bevel between the yoke 3 and the laminate 4. Each facet 13 encroaches on the laminate 4 and locally reduces the axial height of the leaflet 4 with respect to the value h. However, said axial height is not canceled, the facets 13 leave the laminate intact around the periphery of the upper face 2. The presence of the facets 13 is not directly perceptible when the visible face 2 is observed along the axis 6 .

Each facet 13 is hollowed out with a groove 14 extending transversely with respect to the axis 6 and receiving a spout 16 (FIG. 1) of a respective one of said claws 9. Here each groove 14 has a longitudinal direction 17 (see FIG. Figure 6 for one of the grooves) perpendicular to the axis 6.

In each facet 13 the associated groove 14 is open at both ends 18 through a respective lateral edge 19 of the facet.

In one embodiment, the bottom of the groove 14 extends in a rectilinear longitudinal direction, preferably parallel to the plane of the corresponding facet 13.

Typically, each groove 14 is formed in a plane 21 (FIG. 5) perpendicular to the axis 6. In the example represented, this plane is the same for all the grooves 14 of the stone.

In the embodiment shown, the bottom 22 (FIG. 5) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis 6. When the longitudinal direction of the groove is rectilinear, this surface of the bottom is then flat.

The illustrated embodiment of the stone has four facets 13 and four grooves 14. In one embodiment the angle A (FIG. 5) between the axis 6 and a median 23 (FIGS. 3 and 5) of a facet located in an axial plane is of the order of 40 °, ie approximately 10 ° less than the half-angle at the apex B of the cone formed by the cylinder head 3.

As shown in Figures 3, 4 and 6, in the embodiment shown, the facets 13 are grouped in pairs of neighboring facets arranged at V relative to each other. The pairs are spaced apart, preferably evenly distributed around the axis. By way of example, a pair is designated by the reference 24 in FIG. 6. The grooves 14 of two facets of the same pair 24 communicate with each other by a common end 18.

We will now more particularly describe the frame 8 and its cooperation with the stones 1, also referring to Figures 7 to 10.

In one embodiment, each pin 27 comprises for each facet 13 a claw 9 connected to a base 28 of the pin, by which the pin is fixed to the plate 26. In the example of Figures 1 to 10, each claw 9 is attached to the base 28 independently of the other claws 9 of the pin.

For attachment to the plate 26, the pin comprises in the embodiment shown latching means 29 in a respective recess 31 of the plate 26. This is, in this particular example, two opposite snap hooks that s are engaged below two opposite edges of the recess 31 in the form of a rectangular window.

The recess 31 has a shape (here rectangular) which only allows, for the orientation of the pin 27 about its axis, a number (here 2) of orientations at most equal to the order of symmetry of the pin 27 and the stone 1 about the axis 6. This is a means among others possible so that all the pins 27 and all the stones are oriented in the same manner around their respective axis in the piece of jewelry (See Figure 2 where the orientation pimples and stones are visible from the position of the visible dotted claws).

In one embodiment, the claws 9 associated with the same stone, therefore here belonging to the same pin 27, are elastically flexible in the mutual spacing direction to receive the stone 1 by snapping the stone between the claws 9 associated.

In the piece of jewelry finished, with the stones 1 in contact or quasi-mutual contact, the claws are located as far as possible below the contact points or quasi-contact 7 between layers 4, as shown in Figure 2. This can be obtained by limiting the number of orientations allowed to the pins 27 relative to the plate 26 as described above.

The embodiment of Figure 11 typically relates to stones of smaller size, for example a diameter of 2.5mm. For each pair 24 (Figure 4) of facets 13 the frame comprises two claws 9 above having a common foot 32, separated from the foot 32 of the at least one other pair of claws 9.

The embodiment of Figures 12 and 13 will be described only for its differences with that of Figures 7 to 10.

Between the successive claws 9 belonging to different pairs, the pin 127 has tabs 109 starting from the base 28, to laterally retain the stone 1. The tabs 109 are distinguished from the claws 9 in particular in that they have no spout 16 The tabs 109 are separated from the claws 9 by slots 111 which allow the claws 9 to flex independently of the tabs 109. The tabs 109 are connected to the claws only by the base 28 of the pin 127 in this embodiment.

In the embodiment of Figure 14, which will be described only for its differences with that of Figures 12 and 13, the tabs 109 are replaced on the pin 227 by hoops 209 which connect in one piece the claws 9 successive belonging to different pairs. The hoops 209 extend circumferentially at a distance from the base 28 and serve as the legs 109 to the lateral retention of the stone mounted on the pin.

The features of the process which do not result from the foregoing description will now be described.

The grooves 14 can be machined by sawing, in particular in a plane 21 (FIG. 5) perpendicular to the axis 6.

The sawing or other machining is deep enough so that the groove has an undercut retaining face (FIG. 5) along its edge opposite the laminate 4.

As illustrated by a mixed line 33 in FIG. 4, before cutting the facets 13 in a stone initially cut in a conventional manner, for example as received from a supplier, it may be advantageous to resize the periphery of the stone according to the mixed line 33 so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis around its entire periphery and jointly make appear or enlarge the axial height of the leaflet. This facilitates the creation of the facets 13 according to the invention and / or makes it possible to further reduce their angle A (FIG. 5). This, in turn, facilitates the machining of the grooves 14 and reduces the depth to be given to them so that their edge opposite the visible surface forms an undercut giving gripping 9. The narrower grooves are less likely to disturb the light plays in the stone.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples described and shown. There could be only three claws and three grooves per stone.

Claims

1 - Jewelry piece with:

At least one stone (1), in particular a diamond, having a generally rounded visible face (2) and a generally cone-shaped yoke (3) having an axis (6) separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral layer (4), and

■ a mount (8) essentially located on the side of the cylinder head (3) and having claws (9) for supporting the stone (1),

Characterized in that:

The laminate (4) has a certain height (h) measured parallel to the axis (6);

■ the stone (1) comprises at least three facets (13) overlapping the laminate (4) and the yoke (3) locally forming a bevel between the yoke (3) and the laminate (4); and

■ each facet (13) is hollowed with a groove (14) extending transversely to the axis (6) and receiving a spout (16) of one of said claws (9).

2 - Jewelery part according to claim 1, characterized in that the laminate (4) is of generally cylindrical shape.

3 - piece of jewelery according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that in each facet (13) the groove (14) associated is open at both ends (18) through a respective lateral edge (19) of the facet ( 13).

4 - Jewelery part according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the bottom (22) of the groove (14) is rectilinear

5 - piece of jewelery according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the groove (14) is formed in a plane (21) perpendicular to the axis. 6 - piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the bottom (22) of the groove (14) extends in a longitudinal direction parallel to the plane of the facet (13) associated.

7 - piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the bottom (14) of the groove is a surface parallel to the axis (6).

8 - Jewelery part according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the stone (1) has four facets (13) and four grooves (14).

9 - Jewelery part according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the angle (A) between the axis (6) and a median (23) facet (13) located in an axial plane is of the order of 40 °.

10 - Piece of jewelry according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the facets (13) leave the laminate (4) intact around the periphery of the upper face (2).

11 - Jewelery part according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the facets (13) locally reduce the axial height of the laminate (4) to a non-zero value.

12 - piece of jewelery according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the facets (13) are grouped in pairs (24) of adjacent facets arranged in V relative to each other, the pairs being spaced apart from one another, preferably regularly distributed around the axis (6).

13 - Jewelery piece according to claim 12, characterized in that for each pair (24) of facets the frame (8) comprises two claws (9) above having a common foot (32), separated from the foot of the at least another pair of claws. 14 - Piece of jewelry according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the mount (8) comprises for each facet (13) a claw (9) connected to a base (28) independently of the other claws.

15 - Jewelery part according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the frame (8) comprises a plate (26) and, for each stone mentioned above, a pin (27) carrying the claws (9) associated to this stone (1).

16 - Jewelery part according to claim 15, characterized in that the pin (27) comprises means (29) latching in a respective recess (31) of the plate (26).

17 - piece of jewelery according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the claws (9) associated with the same stone (1) are elastically flexible in the direction of the mutual spacing to receive the stone by snapping between the claws (9) associated.

18 - Jewelery part according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the at least one stone (1) comprises several stones mounted with contact or quasi-contact (7) between the layers (4) stones neighbors.

19 - Jewelery part according to claim 18, characterized in that the claws (9) are located below the contact points or quasi-contact (7) between layers (4).

20 - Jewelery part according to one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the grinding comprises, at least in certain intervals between claws (9) successive associated with the same stone, lateral retention means for the stone, in particular in each such interval a lug (109) retaining the stone (1) or a circumferential hoop (209) retaining the stone (1). 21 - A method for cutting a stone (1), in particular a diamond, for the production of a piece of jewelery according to any one of claims 1 to 20, the stone having a generally visible face (2) round and a cylinder head (3) in the general shape of a cone having an axis (6), separated from the visible face (2) by a peripheral layer (4), characterized in that

■ at least three facets (13) overlapping the laminate (4) and the yoke (3) are locally cut into the stone forming a wedge between the yoke (3) and the laminate (4); and

Each facet (13) is hollowed out with a groove (14) extending transversely with respect to the axis.

22 - Method according to claim 21, characterized in that the size of the facets (13) remains below an upper limit of the laminate (4).

23 - Method according to claim 21 or 22, characterized in that before cutting the facets (13) is subdivided the periphery of the stone so as to reduce its dimension perpendicular to the axis (6) around its periphery and jointly revealing or enlarging an axial height (h) of the laminate (4).

24 - Method according to one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that form the grooves (14) by sawing.

25 - Method according to claim 24, characterized in that the sawing is performed in a plane (21) perpendicular to the axis (6).

26 - A method according to claim 24 or 25, characterized in that the sawing is deep enough so that the groove (14) has a retaining face (20) undercut along its edge opposite the laminate (4).

27 - Spur of a fitting for a piece of jewelery according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, or obtained by the process according to one of Claims 21 to 26, characterized in that it comprises: ■ a common base (28) equipped with means (29) latching in a plate (26); and

At least three claws (9) distributed around an axis (6), each having a snap-in nose (16) directed towards the axis (6), and capable of diverging from each other by elastic flexion.

28 - Pitch of mount according to claim 27, characterized in that there is an even number of claws (9), grouped in pairs (24) of adjacent claws, the pairs being evenly distributed around the axis (6) .

29 - Pitch of mount according to claim 28, characterized in that the two claws of the same pair are connected to the base by a foot (32) common, distinct from the foot of the at least one other pair. 30 - pin according to one of claims 27 to 29, characterized in that it comprises in at least some intervals between claws (9) successive, in particular belonging to two different pairs, a means of lateral retention of the stone, in particular a lug (109) coming from the base (28) or a circumferential hoop (209) connecting said successive claws (9).