EP3522993B1 - Monosubstituted urea derivatives as a self-tanning substance - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to the use of monosubstituted urea derivatives of the formula I as self-tanning substances, to increase melanin synthesis, to improve melanin transport and / or to improve the distribution of melanin in suprabasal layers, as well as preparations containing these urea derivatives.

The trend away from the elegant paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been unbroken for years. To achieve a tanned complexion, people expose their skin to solar radiation, as this causes pigmentation through the formation of melanin. However, the UV radiation of sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage occurs when there is excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength 280-320 nm), such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer. Excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) generates highly reactive radical species that continue to multiply even after the irradiation has ended, resulting in wrinkles and skin aging.

The tanning (pigmentation) of the skin offers natural protection against the negative effects of solar radiation. In its lowest layer, the basal layer, the epidermis contains, in addition to the basal cells, individual pigment-forming cells, the melanocytes. UV light stimulates the production of melanin in these cells, which is transported into the kerantinocytes (horny cells) and becomes visible there as a brown skin color. Melanin protects the cell nuclei from further radiation and the negative effects it causes on cell DNA.

Depending on the chemical composition of the biochemically formed pigments, a distinction is made between the brownish-black eumelanin and the reddish-yellow pheomelanin. The observed skin tone is determined by the ratio of these two types of melanin.
This pigment formation emanating from the amino acid tyrosine is predominantly initiated by UVB radiation and is referred to as "indirect pigmentation". Their development takes several days; the tan obtained in this way lasts for a few weeks. In the case of "direct pigmentation", which begins with exposure to the sun, predominantly colorless melanin precursors are oxidized to dark-colored melanin by UVA radiation. Since this oxidation is reversible, it only causes the skin to tan for a short time.

Artificial tanning of the skin can be created externally with the help of make-up and orally by taking carotenoids.

Much more popular, however, is artificial tanning of the skin, which can be achieved by applying so-called self-tanners.
As a chemical structural feature, these compounds have keto or aldehyde groups in the vicinity of alcohol functions and predominantly belong to the sugar substance class. Self-tanning substances that are particularly frequently used are 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which is used in an amount of 700t / a, and erythrulose.

Self-tanners can be reacted with the proteins and amino acids of the horny layer of the skin in the sense of a Maillard reaction or via a Michael addition, whereby polymers are formed via a reaction path that has not yet been fully elucidated, which give the skin a brownish hue. This reaction is complete in about 4 to 6 hours. The tan achieved in this way cannot be washed off and is only removed with normal peeling of the skin.

However, these color products themselves do not have any UV-absorbing properties, so that additional sun protection (clothing, hat, application of UV filters) is required when exposed to the sun.
In contrast to "sun-tanned" skin, skin tanned in this way is not protected against sunburn.

There is therefore still a need for dermatologically compatible skin-coloring substances which are suitable for use in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations or medical products and which increase the natural tan of the skin by increasing melanin synthesis and at the same time provide better skin protection or sun protection, in particular against UVB Radiation, enable.

The object on which the present invention is based therefore consisted in providing new self-tanning substances with improved properties.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that certain monosubstituted urea derivatives are suitable as self-tanning substances, in particular as self-tanning substances which enable natural tanning of the skin by acting on melanin synthesis and / or melanin distribution.

For the purposes of the invention, the term self-tanning active ingredient is used synonymously with self-tanning substance or self-tanning substance.

From Marc Criton et al, Bioorganic & Medicinal Chemistry Letters 2008, 18, 3607-3610 structurally related compounds of N-hydroxy-N'-phenylthiourea and N-hydroxy-N'-phenylurea are known, which are also described as skin lighteners, in particular as tyrosinase inhibitors.

wobei

• R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander für
  -H,
  -OH,
  -geradkettiges oder verzweigtes O-(C₁- bis C₆-Alkyl) stehen,
• wobei R¹ und R² auch zusammen einen unsubstituierten oder substituierten fünfgliedrigen Ring bilden können, wobei ein oder zwei nicht benachbarte CH₂-Gruppen durch O ersetzt sein können und der durch mindestens eine geradkettige oder verzweigte Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 6 C-Atomen substituiert sein kann,
• und/oder deren Salze, Tautomere, Konformere und/oder Solvate, einschließlich deren Mischungen in allen Verhältnissen, als Selbstbräunungssubstanz.

A first object of the present invention is therefore the use of compounds of the formula I,

in which

• R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for
  -H,
  -OH,
  -straight-chain or branched O- (C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl) are,
• where R ¹ and R ^{2 can} also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, where one or two non-adjacent CH ₂ groups can be replaced by O and which can be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms can,
• and / or their salts, tautomers, conformers and / or solvates, including their mixtures in all proportions, as a self-tanning substance.

wobei

• R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander für
  -H,
  -OH,
  -geradkettiges oder verzweigtes O-(C₁- bis C₆-Alkyl) stehen,
• wobei R¹ und R² auch zusammen einen unsubstituierten oder substituierten fünfgliedrigen Ring bilden können, wobei ein oder zwei nicht benachbarte CH₂-Gruppen durch O ersetzt sein können und der durch mindestens eine geradkettige oder verzweigte Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 6 C-Atomen substituiert sein kann,
• und/oder deren Salze, Tautomere, Konformere und/oder Solvate, einschließlich deren Mischungen in allen Verhältnissen, zur Verwendung zur Steigerung der Melaninsynthese, zur Verbesserung des Melanintransports und/oder zur Verbesserung der Verteilung von Melanin in suprabasalen Schichten.

The invention further relates to compounds of the formula I,

in which

• R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for
  -H,
  -OH,
  -straight-chain or branched O- (C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl) are,
• where R ¹ and R ^{2 can} also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, where one or two non-adjacent CH ₂ groups can be replaced by O and which can be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms can,
• and / or their salts, tautomers, conformers and / or solvates, including their mixtures in all proportions, for use to increase melanin synthesis, to improve melanin transport and / or to improve the distribution of melanin in suprabasal layers.

In the context of the invention, the compounds of the formula I are defined in such a way that they also include pharmaceutically or cosmetically usable salts, hydrates, solvates, tautomers and conformers. Solvates of the compounds are understood as meaning additions of inert solvent molecules to the compounds, which form due to their mutual attraction. Solvates are e.g. mono- or dihydrates or alcoholates.

The preferred salts include in particular alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, zinc and ammonium salts, but in particular sodium and potassium salts.

Molecules with the same molecular formula are called tautomers, the atoms of which are linked differently. H. the two isomers are in rapid chemical equilibrium with each other.

The conformation of an organic molecule describes the spatial arrangement of its rotatable bonds on the carbon atoms. By they are the three-dimensional space coordinates of all atoms in the molecule fully described. Molecules with the same arrangement of atoms, but which differ in the specific arrangement of the atoms and lie in an energy minimum, are called conformers. The term rotamer is also used synonymously.

A straight-chain or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms is, for example, methyl, ethyl, iso-propyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or tert -butyl, pentyl, 1-, 2- or 3-methylbutyl, 1,1-, 1,2- or 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl or n-hexyl.

The term "C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl" used here means a straight-chain or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, as described above.

The term "O- (C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl)" used here means a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, the alkyl group described above being correspondingly bonded to an O atom.

Compounds of the formula I are preferably used when the substituent R ¹ in formula I preferably represents H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The substituent R ¹ in compounds of the formula I particularly preferably represents H, OH or OCH ₃ .

The invention therefore further relates to the use of compounds of the formula I, as described above, where the substituent R ^{1 is} H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or preferably H, OH or OCH ₃ stands.

Compounds of the formula I are preferably used when the substituent R ² in formula I represents H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The substituent R ² in compounds of the formula I particularly preferably represents H, OH or OCH ₃ .

The invention therefore further provides the use of compounds of the formula I, as described above, where the substituent R ^{2 is} H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or preferably H, OH or OCH ₃ stands.

As described above, the substituents R ¹ and R ² in compounds of the formula I can together form a five-membered ring, where one or two non-adjacent CH ₂ groups can be replaced by O and that by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 C atoms can be substituted.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, compounds of the formula I are used in which the substituents R ¹ and R ² in formula I together preferably form a five-membered ring containing two O atoms, which is replaced by one or two straight-chain or branched alkyl groups (n ) can be substituted with 1 to 6 carbon atoms. A five-membered ring formed in this way is preferably substituted or unsubstituted by one or two methyl group (s).

The invention therefore further relates to the use of compounds of the formula I, as described above, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together form a five-membered ring containing two O atoms, which is replaced by one or two straight-chain or branched alkyl group (s) can be substituted with 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

wobei R¹ und R² eine jeweils zuvor genannte Bedeutung oder bevorzugt genannte Bedeutung haben.The substituent R ¹ is preferably in position 3 of the benzyl ring; the substituent R ² is preferably in position 4 of the benzyl ring, visualized by the formula I-1:

where R ¹ and R ² each have the meaning given above or preferred meaning.

Examples of compounds of the formula I or of the formula I-1 are the compounds Ia to Ik:

und

For use according to the invention, as described above, the compound of the formula I is particularly preferably selected from the compounds of the formula Ia, Ib, Ic, Id and le,

and

For the use according to the invention, as described above, at least one compound of the formula Ia, Ib and / or is very particularly preferred Ic selected. From the group of compounds of the formula Ia, Ib and / or Ic, the compound of the formula Ic is preferred.

wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² eine der zuvor angegebenen oder bevorzugt angegebnen Bedeutungen haben, mit Harnstoff unter Säurekatalyse hergestellt werden.
Die dazu notwendige Reaktionsbedingung findet ein Fachmann auf dem Gebiet der organischen Synthese problemlos in der allgemein zugänglichen Literatur zu organischen Reaktionen. Beispiele für Reaktionsbedingungen sind im Ausführungsteil beschrieben.The compounds of the formula I are commercially available or can be prepared by syntheses which are known to the person skilled in the art. You can, for example, by reaction of a corresponding amine of the formula II

where the substituents R ¹ and R ^{2 have} one of the meanings given above or preferably given, are prepared with urea under acid catalysis.
A person skilled in the art of organic synthesis can easily find the reaction conditions required for this in the generally accessible literature on organic reactions. Examples of reaction conditions are described in the detailed description.

The reaction preferably takes place in water. The reaction can optionally be carried out in organic solvents or in mixtures of organic solvents with water.

The reaction is preferably carried out under acid catalysis with concentrated hydrochloric acid. The reaction temperature is between 60 ° C and 130 ° C. It is particularly preferred to work at the boiling point of the solvent or solvent mixture. The implementation is often followed by a suitable purification.

Suitable purification steps include the separation of volatile components by distillation or condensation, extraction with an organic solvent, and precipitation Addition of an organic solvent, a salt treatment or a combination of these methods. Any known separation method can be used or combined for this. As a rule, the desired reaction product precipitates from the reaction mixture and is separated off and purified accordingly.
Further details are given in the examples, which also apply accordingly to the general description of the synthesis.

Compounds of the formula I surprisingly increase melanin synthesis and / or improve melanin transport from the melanocytes to the keratinocytes and / or distribute melanin better in suprabasal layers. A compound of the formula I can therefore also be referred to as a melanogenesis promoter or propigmentation agent. The compounds of the formula I preferably increase melanin synthesis. This affects the color of the skin and creates a tan effect. This property is surprising insofar as the opposite effect, namely an inhibition of melanin synthesis, is described for similar compounds.

In addition to the tanning effect, the compounds of the formula I are also well tolerated by the skin. In addition, preferred of the compounds described here are colorless or only slightly colored and thus do not lead to discoloration of the preparations, or only to a minor extent. The preferred compounds also have improved solubility in cosmetic oils.

So that the compounds of the formula I can develop their positive effect on the skin particularly well, it can be preferred to allow the compounds of the formula I, as described above, to penetrate into deeper layers of the skin. There are several ways to do this. On the one hand, the compounds of the formula I can have sufficient lipophilicity to penetrate the outer skin layer into epidermal To be able to penetrate layers. As a further possibility, appropriate means of transport, for example liposomes, which enable the compounds of the formula I to be transported through the outer layers of the skin, can also be provided in the topical preparation. Finally, systemic transport of the compounds of the formula I is also conceivable.

The uses according to the invention are preferably non-therapeutic.

wobei

• R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander für
  -H,
  -OH,
  -geradkettiges oder verzweigtes O-(C₁- bis C₆-Alkyl) stehen,
• wobei R¹ und R² auch zusammen einen unsubstituierten oder substituierten fünfgliedrigen Ring bilden können, wobei ein oder zwei nicht benachbarte CH₂-Gruppen durch O ersetzt sein können und der durch mindestens eine geradkettige oder verzweigte Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 6 C-Atomen substituiert sein kann,
• und/oder deren Salze, Tautomere, Konformere und/oder Solvate, einschließlich deren Mischungen in allen Verhältnissen, oder eine bevorzugte Verbindung der Formel I, wie zuvor beschrieben und mindestens eine weitere Selbstbräunungssubstanz.

Another object of the present invention is a preparation containing a carrier suitable for topical applications, at least one compound of the formula I in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight,

in which

• R ¹ and R ² independently of one another for
  -H,
  -OH,
  -straight-chain or branched O- (C ₁ - to C ₆ -alkyl) are,
• where R ¹ and R ^{2 can} also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, where one or two non-adjacent CH ₂ groups can be replaced by O and which can be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms can,
• and / or their salts, tautomers, conformers and / or solvates, including their mixtures in all ratios, or a preferred compound of the formula I, as described above, and at least one further self-tanning substance.

The topically applicable preparation is usually cosmetic or dermatological formulations or medical products. In this case, the preparations contain a cosmetically or dermatologically suitable carrier or a carrier suitable for a medical product and, depending on the desired profile of properties, optionally further suitable ingredients.

For the purposes of the present invention, in addition to the term preparation, the term agent or formulation is also used synonymously.

For the purposes of the invention, topically applicable means that the preparation is applied externally and locally, i.e. that the preparation must be suitable in order, for example, to be able to be applied to the skin.

The preparations can comprise or contain the stated necessary or optional constituents, essentially consist of them or consist of them. All compounds or components that can be used in the preparations are either known and commercially available or can be synthesized by known processes.

It is preferably a cosmetic or dermatological preparation; it is particularly preferably a cosmetic preparation.

The at least one compound of the formula I, as described above or described as preferred, is typically used in the preparations according to the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular preferably used in amounts of 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation. The skilled person is not faced with any difficulties regarding the quantities depending on the intended effect of the preparation to be selected accordingly.

The preparations according to the invention also contain at least one further self-tanning substance as a further ingredient. This can be a self-tanner that reacts with the amino acids of the skin in the sense of a Maillard reaction or via a Michael addition, as well as a so-called melanogenesis promoter or propigmenting agent that promotes natural tanning of the skin.

Advantageous self-tanning substances that can be used include: 1,3-dihydroxyacetone, glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone) or 2- Hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson). 1,3-Dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose or a combination thereof is very particularly preferred. Propigmentation substances can in principle be all active substances known to the person skilled in the art. Examples of these are glycyrrhetinic acid, melanocyte-stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH), peptide analogs, thymidine dinucleotides, L-tyrosine and its esters or bicyclic monoterpened diols (described in Brown et al., Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology 63 (2001) 148-161 ) or hexadecanoic acid 5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-oxo-4H-chromen-7-yl ester, which is marketed by Merck under the trade name RonaCare® Bronzyl ™. Particularly suitable active ingredients for combination with at least one compound of the formula I, as described above, are 1,3-dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose and / or hexadecanoic acid 5-hydroxy-2-methyl-4-oxo-4H-chromen-7-yl ester. The at least one further self-tanning substance in the preparation is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in in an amount of 0.2 to 8% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation.

Preparations with self-tanning properties, especially those containing dihydroxyacetone, tend to have off-odors when used on the human skin, which are probably caused by degradation products of the dihydroxyacetone itself or by products of side reactions and which are sometimes perceived by users as unpleasant. It has been shown that these off-odors can be avoided when using formaldehyde scavengers and / or flavonoids. The preparation according to the invention can therefore also contain formaldehyde scavengers and, if appropriate, flavonoids to improve the odor.

The formaldehyde scavenger is preferably selected from the group consisting of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal or ammonium disulfite. Particularly preferred is a preparation which, in combination, contains DHA Plus, a mixture of DHA, sodium disulfite and magnesium stearate.

_{DHA Plus is a product mixture that contains sodium metabisulfite, equivalent to Na 2} S ₂ O ₅ or INCI: sodium disulfite, to mask, eliminate or neutralize formaldehyde. The addition of sodium metabisulphite in finished formulations leads to a significant reduction or elimination of the unpleasant odor. DHA Plus is sold by Merck, Darmstadt.

The preparation according to the invention comprising at least one compound of the formula I, as described above with the specified and also preferably specified substituents, and dihydroxyacetone as a self-tanner, can particularly preferably contain flavonoids to improve the odor and optionally to accelerate tanning.

The flavonoid also acts as a stabilizer for the self-tanner or the self-tanning substances and / or reduces, avoids or improves storage-dependent off-odors, which can also arise from additives or auxiliary substances contained.

It is preferably a flavonoid in which one or more phenolic hydroxyl groups are blocked by etherification or esterification. For example, hydroxyethyl-substituted flavonoids, such as preferably troxerutin, troxequercetin, troxeisoquercetin or troxeluteolin, and flavonoid sulfates or flavonoid phosphates, such as preferably rutin sulfates, have proven to be particularly suitable flavonoids. For the purposes of this use, rutin sulfate and troxerutin are particularly preferred. The use of troxerutin is very particularly preferred.

The preferred flavonoids have a non-positively charged flavan body. It is assumed that these flavonoids ^{complex metal ions such as Fe 2+} / Cu ²⁺ and thus prevent or reduce auto-oxidation processes in fragrances or compounds, the degradation of which leads to offensive odors.

Particularly preferred is a preparation which, in addition to at least one compound of the formula I, as described above or preferably described, contains DHA Rapid. DHA Rapid is a product mixture containing dihydroxyacetone and troxerutin, from Merck, Darmstadt. This particularly preferred preparation can optionally also contain a formaldehyde scavenger, for example sodium disulfite.

Appropriate premixes and preparations, the formaldehyde scavengers and optionally flavonoids to improve the odor on the Skin included are in the German patent application DE 10 2007 013 368 A1 described.

In addition to the compounds of the formula I, as described above or as described as preferred, the preparations according to the invention can also contain at least one UV filter.

Organic UV filters, so-called hydrophilic or lipophilic sun protection filters, are effective in the UVA range and / or UVB range and / or IR and / or VIS range (absorber). These substances can, in particular, from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, β, β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and polymeric filters and silicone filters, which are described in the application WO-93/04665 are described, be selected. Further examples of organic filters are in the patent application EP-A 0 487 404 specified. In the following, the UV filters mentioned are mostly named according to the INCI nomenclature.

• Dibenzoylmethanederivative, beispielsweise 4-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane und 4,4'-Methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, welche in den Offenlegungsschriften FR-A-2 326 405 , FR-A-2 440 933 und
• EP-A-0 114 607 beschrieben sind. 4,4'-Methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane wird beispielsweise von der Firma Merk unter dem Namen Eusolex 9020 vertrieben.

Particularly suitable for a combination are:

• Dibenzoylmethane derivatives, for example 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane and 4,4'-methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, which are described in the Offenlegungsschriften FR-A-2 326 405 , FR-A-2 440 933 and
• EP-A-0 114 607 are described. 4,4'-Methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane is sold, for example, by the Merk company under the name Eusolex 9020.

Para-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives: PABA, ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Escalol 507" by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, z. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul P25" by BASF.

Salicylates: Homosalates marketed by Merck under the name "Eusolex HMS"; Ethylhexyl salicylate, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Symrise, Dipropylene glycol salicylate, z. B. marketed under the name "Dipsal" by Scher, TEA salicylate, z. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Symrise.

β, β-diphenyl acrylate derivatives: Octocrylene, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Eusolex OCR" by Merck "," Uvinul N539 "by BASF, Etocrylene, for example marketed under the name" Uvinul N35 "by BASF.

Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul 400"; Benzophenone-2, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul D50"; Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul M40"; Benzophenone-4, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul MS40"; Benzophenone-9, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6, z. B. marketed under the name "Helisorb 11" by the company. Norquay, Benzophenone-8, z. B. marketed under the name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid, Benzophenone-12 n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate or 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, marketed by from Merck, Darmstadt under the name Eusolex® 4360.

Benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidenecamphor, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Mexoryl SD" by the company. Chimex, 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, z. B. marketed under the name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck, Benzylidenecamphorsulfonsäure, z. B. marketed under the name "Mexoryl SL" by the company. Chimex, Camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, z. B. marketed under the name "Mexoryl SO" by the company. Chimex, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonsäure, z. B. marketed under the name "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex, Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.

Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, z. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Symrise.

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: Drometrizole trisiloxane, e.g. B. sold under the name "Silatrizole" by the company. Rhodia Chimie, methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol in solid form, z. B. marketed under the name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, or in micronized form as an aqueous dispersion, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Tinosorb M" by BASF.

Triazine derivatives: ethylhexyltriazone, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Uvinul T150" by BASF, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone, z. B. marketed under the name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V, 2,4,6-tris (diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-triazine or 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine sold as Tinosorb A2B by BASF, 2,2 '- [6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl] bis [5- (2-ethylhexyl) oxy ] phenol sold as Tinosorb S by BASF, N2, N4- bis [4- [5- (1,1-dimethylpropyl) -2-benzoxazolyl] phenyl] -N6- (2-ethylhexyl) -1,3,5 -triazine-2,4,6-triamine sold as Uvasorb K 2A by Sigma 3V.

Anthraniline derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Symrise.

Imidazole derivatives: Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.

Benzalmalonate derivatives: polyorganosiloxanes containing functional benzalmalonate groups, such as Polysilicone-15, e.g. B. marketed under the name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann LaRoche.

4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadienes.

Benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis [5- (1-dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazines, e.g. B. marketed under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V and mixtures containing this.

oder die UV-Filter der folgenden Strukturen

oder

Piperazine derivatives such as the compound

or the UV filters of the following structures

or

It is also possible to use UV filters based on polysiloxane copolymers with a statistical distribution according to the following formula, where, for example, a = 1.2; b = 58 and c = 2.8 are:

The compounds in the list are only to be regarded as examples. Of course, other UV filters can also be used.

Suitable organic UV-protecting substances should preferably be selected from the following list: Ethylhexyl salicylate, Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate, 4- Methylbenzylidenecamphor, terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid, disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletetrasulfonate, methylenebis (benzotriazolyl) tetramethylbutylphenol, butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, 1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, 2,4-bis [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazole- 2-yl (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazines and mixtures thereof.

These organic UV filters are generally incorporated into formulations in an amount of 0.01 percent by weight to 20 percent by weight, preferably 1% by weight to 10% by weight.

In addition to the compounds of the formula I and the optionally organic UV filters, as described above, the preparations can contain further inorganic UV filters, so-called particulate UV filters.

These combinations with particulate UV filters are possible both as a powder and as a dispersion or paste of the following types.

Both those from the group of titanium dioxides such as coated titanium dioxide (e.g. Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-AQUA, Eusolex®T-AVO, Eusolex®T-PRO, Eusolex® T-EASY), zinc oxides (e.g. Sachtotec ®), iron oxides or also cerium oxides and / or zirconium oxides are preferred.

Combinations with pigmentary titanium dioxide or zinc oxide are also possible, the particle size of these pigments being greater than or equal to 200 nm, for example Hombitan® FG or Hombitan® FF-Pharma.

It can furthermore be preferred if the preparations contain inorganic UV filters which have been produced using customary methods, such as, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53 64 described, after-treated. One or more of the following can be used here After-treatment components have to be selected: amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, phospholipids, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, polyethylene, silicones, proteins (especially collagen or elastin), alkanolamines, Silicon dioxide, aluminum oxide, other metal oxides, phosphates such as sodium hexametaphosphate or glycerine.

These inorganic UV filters are generally incorporated into the preparations in an amount of 0.1 percent by weight to 25 percent by weight, preferably 2% by weight to 10% by weight.

By combining one or more of the compounds mentioned with a UV filter effect, the protective effect against the harmful effects of UV radiation can be optimized.

All of the UV filters mentioned can also be used in encapsulated form. In particular, it is advantageous to use organic UV filters in encapsulated form.

The capsules are preferably contained in preparations to be used according to the invention in such amounts that ensure that the encapsulated UV filters are present in the preparation in the weight percentages specified above.

The preparations described, which according to the invention contain at least one compound of the formula I, can furthermore also contain colored pigments, the layer structure of the pigments not being limited.

The color pigment should preferably be skin-colored or brownish when 0.5 to 5% by weight are used. The person skilled in the art is familiar with the selection of an appropriate pigment.

Preferred preparations can also contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient, for example selected from antioxidants, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-dandruff, anti-acne, anti-cellulite active ingredients, deodorants or vitamins.

The protective effect of preparations against oxidative stress or against the action of free radicals can be improved if the preparations contain one or more antioxidants, the skilled person having no difficulty in selecting suitable antioxidants which act quickly or with a delay.

There are many substances known and proven from the specialist literature that can be used as antioxidants, e.g. amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L- Carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl , γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximines , Buthioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to µmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. Citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (e.g. vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordohydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercitin and its derivatives, uric acid and its derivatives, for example ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide).

worin

• R¹ aus der Gruppe -C(O)CH₃, -CO₂R³, -C(O)NH₂ und -C(O)N(R⁴)₂ ausgewählt werden kann,
• X O oder NH,
• R² lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• R³ lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 20 C-Atomen,
• R⁴ jeweils unabhängig voneinander H oder lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen,
• R⁵ H, lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen oder lineares oder verzweigtes Alkoxy mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen und
• R⁶ lineares oder verzweigtes Alkyl mit 1 bis 8 C-Atomen bedeutet, vorzugsweise Derivate der 2-(4-Hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyliden)-malonsäure und/oder 2-(4-Hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)-malonsäure, besonders bevorzugt 2-(4-Hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyliden)-malonsäure-bis-(2-ethylhexyl)ester (z.B. Oxynex® ST Liquid) und/oder 2-(4-Hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl)-malonsäure-bis-(2-ethylhexyl)ester (z.B. RonaCare® AP).

Compounds of the formulas A or B are also suitable antioxidants

wherein

• R ^{1 can be selected} from the group -C (O) CH ₃ , -CO ₂ R ³ , -C (O) NH ₂ and -C (O) N (R ⁴ ) ₂ ,
• XO or NH,
• R ² linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 30 carbon atoms,
• R ³ linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 20 carbon atoms,
• R ⁴ each independently of one another H or linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 carbon atoms,
• R ⁵ H, linear or branched alkyl having 1 to 8 carbon atoms or linear or branched alkoxy having 1 to 8 carbon atoms and
• R ⁶ denotes linear or branched alkyl with 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably derivatives of 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene) malonic acid and / or 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl) - malonic acid, particularly preferably 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzylidene) -malonic acid-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) ester (eg Oxynex® ST Liquid) and / or 2- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzyl ) -malonic acid-bis- (2-ethylhexyl) ester (e.g. RonaCare® AP).

Mixtures of antioxidants are also suitable for use in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. Known and commercially available mixtures are, for example, mixtures containing as active ingredients lecithin, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid, natural tocopherols, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate, L - (+) - ascorbic acid and citric acid (e.g. Oxynex® K LIQUID) , Tocopherol extracts from natural sources, L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate, L - (+) - ascorbic acid and citric acid (e.g. Oxynex® L LIQUID), DL-α-tocopherol, L (+) - ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid and lecithin (e.g. Oxynex ® LM) or butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), L - (+) - ascorbyl palmitate and citric acid (e.g. Oxynex® 2004). Such antioxidants are usually used with the compounds according to the invention in such compositions in weight percent ratios in the range from 1000: 1 to 1: 1000, preferably in weight percent ratios from 100: 1 to 1: 100.

Suitable anti-aging active ingredients, in particular for skin care preparations, are preferably so-called compatible solutes. Compatible solutes are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidinecarboxylic acids (such as ectoine and hydroxyectoine), proline, betaine, glutamine, cyclic diphosphoglycerate, N.-acetylornithine, Trimethylamine-N-oxide di-myo-inositol-phosphate (DIP), cyclic 2,3-diphosphoglycerate (cDPG), 1,1-diglycerol phosphate (DGP), β-mannosylglycerate (Firoin), ß- mannosylglyceramide (Firoin- A), dimannosyl di-inositol phosphate (DMIP) or an optical isomer or derivative, for example an acid, a salt or ester of these compounds, and combinations thereof.

In addition, products from Merck such as 5,7-dihydroxy-2-methyl-chromone, marketed under the trade name RonaCare®Luremin®, or the commercial products RonaCare®ASCIII®, RonaCare®RenouMer, RonaCare®Nicotinamide, RonaCare®VTA, RonaCare®Poppy SE, RonaCare®Isoquercetin or RonaCare®Cyclopeptide 5 can be used.

The preparations to be used can contain vitamins as additional ingredients. Vitamins and vitamin derivatives selected from vitamin A, vitamin A propionate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A acetate, retinol, vitamin B, thiamine chloride hydrochloride (vitamin B ₁ ), riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ ), nicotinic acid amide are preferred , Vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin D, ergocalciferol (vitamin D ₂ ), vitamin E, DL-α-tocopherol, tocopherol E acetate, tocopherol _{hydrogen succinate, vitamin K 1} , esculin (vitamin P active ingredient), thiamine (vitamin B. ₁ ), nicotinic acid (niacin), pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, (vitamin B ₆ ), pantothenic acid, biotin, folic acid and cobalamin (vitamin B ₁₂ ), particularly preferably vitamin A palmitate, vitamin C and its derivatives, DL-α -Tocopherol, tocopherol-E-acetate, nicotinic acid, pantothenic acid and biotin. Vitamins are usually added to the flavonoid-containing premixes or preparations for cosmetic use in the range from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight. Nutritional physiological applications are based on the recommended vitamin requirement in each case.

The retinoids described are also effective anti-cellulite agents. Another well-known anti-cellulite ingredient is caffeine.

The preparations can preferably contain auxiliaries, such as cosmetic oils (e.g. Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, arylalkyl benzoates such as phenethyl benzoate (X-Tend 226) or oil components from the Cosmacol brand such as Dimyristyl Tartrate, Tri C14 -C15 alkyl citrate, C12-C13 alkyl lactate, tridecyl salicylate, C12-C13 alkyl octanoate, C12-C13 alkyl malate, C12-C13 alkyl citrate, C12-C13 alkyl tartrate), or polar protic auxiliaries (e.g. propylene glycol, glycerine, isopropanol, Ethanol) or so-called solubilizers (e.g. butylphthalimide, isopropylphthalimide, dimethylisosorbide). Very particularly preferred cosmetic oils are C12-C13 alkyl lactates, commercially available as Cosmacol ELI, and phenethylbenzoate, commercially available as X-Tend 226.

The present invention also relates to a method for producing a preparation as described above, characterized in that at least one compound of the formula I is mixed with a carrier suitable for topical preparations, the further self-tanning substance, and optionally with auxiliaries and / or fillers. Suitable carriers and auxiliaries or fillers are described in detail in the following section.

The stated constituents of the preparation can be incorporated in the customary manner with the aid of techniques which are well known to the person skilled in the art.

Preparations are suitable for external use, for example as a cream or milk (O / W, W / O, O / W / O, W / O / W), as a lotion or emulsion, in the form of oily-alcoholic, oily-aqueous or Aqueous alcoholic gels or solutions can be sprayed onto the skin. They can be in the form of solid sticks or packaged as an aerosol.

Examples of the application form of the preparations to be used include: solutions, suspensions, emulsions, PIT emulsions, pastes, ointments, gels, creams, lotions, powders, soaps, cleaning preparations containing surfactants, oils, aerosols, plasters, poultices, dressings and sprays.

Preferred auxiliaries come from the group of preservatives, stabilizers, solubilizers, colorants, odor improvers, thickeners, plasticizers, humectants, surface-active agents, emulsifiers, preservatives, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, waxes, lanolin, propellants and other ingredients commonly used in cosmetics .

Ointments, pastes, creams and gels can contain the usual carriers which are suitable for topical administration, for example animal and vegetable fats, waxes, paraffins, starch, tragacanth, cellulose derivatives, polyethylene glycols, silicones, bentonites, silica, talc and zinc oxide or mixtures these substances.

Powders and sprays can contain the usual carrier substances, e.g. lactose, talc, silica, aluminum hydroxide, calcium silicate and polyamide powder or mixtures of these substances. Sprays can also contain the usual volatile, liquefied propellants, e.g. chlorofluorocarbons, propane / butane or dimethyl ether. It is also advantageous to use compressed air.

Solutions and emulsions can contain the usual carriers such as solvents, solubilizers and emulsifiers, for example water, ethanol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, propylene glycol, 1,3 butyl glycol, oils, especially cottonseed oil, peanut oil, corn oil, olive oil, castor oil and sesame oil , XTend 226 (L'Oréal), glycerol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycols and fatty acid esters of sorbitan or mixtures of these substances.

A preferred solubilizer in general is 2-isopropyl-5-methylcyclohexanecarbonyl-D-alanine methyl ester.

Suspensions can contain the usual carriers such as liquid diluents, e.g. water, ethanol or propylene glycol, suspending agents, e.g. ethoxylated isostearyl alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters and polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters, microcrystalline cellulose, aluminum metahydroxide, bentonite, agar-agar and tragacanth or mixtures of these substances.

Soaps can contain the usual carrier substances such as alkali salts of fatty acids, salts of fatty acid half-esters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, lanolin, fatty alcohol, vegetable oils, plant extracts, glycerin, sugar or mixtures of these substances.

Cleaning products containing surfactants can contain the usual carrier substances such as salts of fatty alcohol sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, sulfosuccinic acid half esters, fatty acid protein hydrolysates, isothionates, imidazolinium derivatives, methyl taurates, sarcosinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, alkyl amido esters, fatty acid ethersulfates, alkyl amido acid esters, and fatty acid ethersulfates, fatty acid alcohols of these, and fatty acid glycerides, glycerol esters, and fatty acid esters.

Face and body oils can contain the usual carrier substances such as synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, natural oils such as vegetable oils and oily plant extracts, paraffin oils, lanolin oils or mixtures of these substances.

Other typical cosmetic application forms are also lipsticks, lip care sticks, powder, emulsion and wax make-up and sun protection, pre-sun and after-sun preparations.

The preferred preparation forms also include, in particular, emulsions.

Emulsions are advantageous and contain e.g. B. the said fats, oils, waxes and other fatty substances, as well as water and an emulsifier, as it is usually used for such a type of preparation.

• Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• Mineral oils, mineral waxes
• Oils such as triglycerides of caprine or caprylic acid, and natural oils such as. B. castor oil;
• Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low carbon number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low carbon number or with fatty acids;
• Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acid and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18, carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The aqueous phase of the preparations to be used contains, if appropriate, advantageously alcohols, diols or polyols with a low C number, as well as their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore alcohols with a low carbon number, e.g. B. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2 propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the Group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called Carbopol, for example Carbopol of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

In particular, mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used. In the case of alcoholic solvents, water can be another component.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparations to be used contain hydrophilic surfactants. The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably selected from the group of alkyl glucosides, acyl lactylates, betaines and cocoamphoacetates.

Known W / O and O / W emulsifiers, for example, can be used as emulsifiers. It is advantageous to use other customary co-emulsifiers in the preferred O / W emulsions.

An oil, wax or other fatty substance, a lower monoalcohol or a lower polyol or mixtures thereof can be used as the dispersing or solubilizing agent. The particularly preferred monoalcohols or polyols include ethanol, i-propanol, propylene glycol, glycerol and sorbitol.

A preferred embodiment of the invention is an emulsion which is in the form of a protective cream or milk and contains, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, lanolin, natural and synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers in the presence of water.

Further preferred embodiments are oily lotions based on natural or synthetic oils and waxes, lanolin, fatty acid esters, in particular triglycerides of fatty acids, or oily alcoholic lotions based on a lower alcohol, such as ethanol, or a glycerol, such as propylene glycol, and / or a polyol, such as Glycerine, and oils, waxes and fatty acid esters such as triglycerides of fatty acids.

The preparation can also be in the form of an alcoholic gel which comprises one or more lower alcohols or lower polyols, such as ethanol, propylene glycol or glycerine, and a thickening agent such as silica. The oily alcoholic gels also contain natural or synthetic oil or wax.

The solid sticks consist of natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other fatty substances.

If a preparation is packaged as an aerosol, the usual propellants, such as alkanes, fluoroalkanes and chlorofluoroalkanes, preferably alkanes, are used as a rule.

Even without further explanations, it is assumed that a person skilled in the art will be able to use the above description to the greatest possible extent. The preferred embodiments and examples are therefore only to be understood as a descriptive disclosure, and in no way as a disclosure that is limiting in any way. The complete disclosure of all applications and publications listed above and below are incorporated into this application by reference. The percentages by weight of the individual ingredients in the preparations of the examples are expressly part of the disclosure of the description and can therefore be used as features.

Further important features and advantages of the invention emerge from the subclaims and from the examples.

The examples are intended to explain the present invention in more detail without restricting its scope.

It goes without saying that the features mentioned above and those yet to be explained below can be used not only in the respectively specified combination, but also in other combinations or on their own, without departing from the scope of the present invention.

Examples: Example 1: Synthesis of benzyl urea (Ia)

6.00 g of benzylamine (56 mmoles) and 13.45 g of urea (224 mmoles) are weighed out one after the other in a 50 ml round bottom flask. Then 25mL of water are added via a volumetric flask. The reaction solution is stirred for 5 minutes, 0.1-0.5 ml of concentrated hydrochloric acid are added and the mixture is refluxed for 3 hours.

The reaction mixture is then cooled and the product crystallizes out at room temperature. The reaction mixture is mixed with 50 ml of water and the precipitate is filtered off. It is washed with 4 × 15 ml of water and 3 × 10 ml of EtOH. The crude product is dried at 40 ° C. in a vacuum drying cabinet (50 mbar).

Yield: 6.81 g (82% of theory).
1 H-NMR (500 MHz, DMSO) δ [ppm] = 4.19 (d, 2H, CH ₂ -NH); 5.51 (s, 2H, NH ₂ ); 6.41 (t, 1H, NH); 7.28 (ddt, 5H, aromatic).

Example 2: Synthesis of (4-methoxy-benzyl) urea (Ib)

Analogously to Example 1, 1.50 g of 4-methoxybenzylamine (10.72 mmoles) and 2.57 g of urea (42.86 mmoles) are reacted. The crude product is recrystallized from ethanol in a ratio of 1: 6 (substance: solvent).
Yield: 0.72 g (37% of theory).
1 H-NMR (500 MHz, DMSO) δ [ppm] = 3.72 (s, 3H, CH ₃ -O); 4.10 (d, 2H, CH ₂ -NH); 5.46 (s, 2H, NH ₂ ); 6.30 (t, 1H, NH) 6.86 (d, 2H, aromatic); 7.17 (d, 2H, aromatic).

Example 3: Synthesis of benzo [1,3] dioxol-5ylmethyl urea (Ic)

Analogously to Example 1, 2.50 g of piperonylamine (16.04 mmoles) and 3.85 g of urea (64.17 mmoles) are reacted.
Yield: 2.87 g (88% of theory).
1 H-NMR (500 MHz, DMSO) δ [ppm] = 4.09 (d, 2H, CH ₂ -NH); 5.98 (s, 2H, O-CH ₂ -O); 5.48 (s, 2H, NH ₂ ); 6.33 (t, 1H, NH) 6.72 (d, 1H, aromatic); 6.84 (dt, 2H, aromatic) .z

Example 4: Synthesis of (4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-benzyl) urea (Id)

2.00g of 4- (aminomethyl) -2-methoxyphenol (10.44mmol) and 2.00g of urea (33.30mmol) are reacted analogously to Example 1.
Yield: 1.56 g (76% of theory).
1 H-NMR (500 MHz, DMSO) δ [ppm] = 3.75 (s, 3H, CH ₃ -O); 4.07 (s, 2H, CH ₂ -NH); 5.48 (s, 2H, NH ₂ ); 8.75 (s, 1H, NH); 6.65 (d, 1H, aromatic) 6.72 (d, 1H, aromatic); 6.82 (s, 1H, aromatic); 12.5 (s, 1H, OH aromatic)

Example 5: Synthesis of (3,4-dimethoxy-benzyl) urea (Ie)

Analogously to Example 1, 2.50 g of 3,4-dimethoxybenzylamine (14.50 mmol) and 3.48 g of urea (58 mmol) are reacted.
Yield: 2.15 g (71% of theory).
1 H-NMR (500 MHz, DMSO) δ [ppm] = 3.73 (2s, 6H, CH ₃ -O); 4.10 (d, 2H, CH ₂ -NH); 5.47 (s, 2H, NH ₂ ); 6.30 (t, 1H, NH) 6.75-6.90 (2d, 1s, 3H, aromatic).

Example 6: Evaluation of melanin synthesis in a cell culture model containing two cell types (co-culture), on the one hand normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) and on the other hand normal human epidermal melanocytes, slightly pigmented (NHEM-LP)

The two cell types NHEK and NHEM-LP (NHEK: NHEM-LP) are used in a ratio of 2: 1.

The culture medium consists of the media Keratinocyte-SFM (2 parts by volume) and Medium M254 (1 part by volume).

Keratinocyte-SFM contains the epidermal growth factor (EGF) with 0.25 ng / ml, pituitary extract (PE) with 25 ug / ml and gentamycin with 25 ug / ml and was obtained from Thermo Fisher Scientific.

M254 contains PMA-free HMGS-2, insulin at 5 µg / ml, penicillin 50 U / ml, streptomycin at 50 µg / ml and gentamycin at 25 µg / ml and was obtained from Thermo Fisher Scientific.

IBMX refers to the compound 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine.

Cell culture and treatment

NHEK and NHEM-LP were incubated in microtiter plates (24-well plates) for 24 hours in the culture medium (37 ° C., 5% CO ₂ ). The culture medium was removed and replaced by an assay medium which contained the culture medium and the compounds Ia, Ib and Ic to be tested or no test substance, the reference L-tyrosine (1mM), IBMX with 200μM or the solvent control THF with 0, 1%, THF at 0.15%. The compounds Ia, Ib and Ic are added as a solution (0.15% in THF). After replacing the assay medium, the cells were incubated again for 240 hours (10 days). Assay medium was added again on days 3 and 7. All experimental investigations were carried out with a 3-fold determination. After the end of the incubation, the melanin was extracted by cell lysis with 0.5 N NaOH solution. The optical density (OD) of each sample was measured at 405 nm. The melanin quantity was calculated from melanin standards (standard curve 0.39 to 100 μg / ml melanin).

Result:

None of the solvent controls showed any influence on melanin synthesis.

The compound Ia, which was tested with 45 μM, stimulates melanin synthesis by 17%.

Compound Ib, which was tested with 45 μM, stimulates melanin synthesis by 18%.

The compound Ic, which was tested with 20 μM and with 30 μM, shows a concentration-dependent stimulating effect on melanin synthesis by 23% and 44%, respectively.

Example 7: Evaluation of the tanning properties in vitro on reconstructed epidermis

In this study, the compound Ic is examined for its tanning properties, this being examined in vitro on 3D melanized reconstructed human epidermis (RHEs-MEL = 3D melanized reconstructed human epidermis). The compound IBMX (3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine) 100 μM is used as a positive control. The compound Ic is used 25µM and 12.5 µM. The untreated, reconstructed skin is considered the negative control. The in vitro skin becomes systemic with the for 10 days investigating compounds treated in a culture medium and then analyzed.

Result:

The compound Ic has properties that are comparable to those of IBMX at 100µM. This can be seen for both concentrations, both in the reduction of the ITA value (ITA = Individual Typology Angle), the visual color difference and the increased amount of melanin.

Example 8: O / W formulation

Components / trade name Source of supply INCI [% By weight] A. Marlipal 1618/11 (1) CETEARETH-11 3 Lanette O (2) CETEARYLALCOHOL 7th Luvitol EHO (3) CETEARYLOCTANOATE 5 Tegosoft TN (4) C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 2.5 Miglyol 812 N (1) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2.5 Propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (5) PROPYL PARABEN 0.05 Compound Ia, Ib, Ic, Id or Ie 0.5 B. 1,2 propanediol (5) PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4th Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (5) METHYL PARABS 0.15 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) ad 100 Water, demineralized 10 total 100.00

Production method:

First, phase A is heated to 75.degree. C. and phase B to 80.degree. Then phase B is slowly added to phase A with stirring and stirred until a homogeneous mixture is formed.

Sources of supply:

(1) Sasol Germany GmbH (2) Cognis GmbH (3) BASF SE (4) Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH (5) Merck KGaA / Rona®

Example 9: O / W formulation

Components / trade name Source of supply INCI [% By weight] A. Tego Care 150 (1) GLYCERYL STEARATE, STEARETH-25, CETETH-20, STEARYL ALCOHOL 8th Lanette O (2) CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1.5 Luvitol EHO (3) CETEARYL OCTANOATE 5 Miglyol 812 N (4) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 5 Paraffin liquid (5) PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL) 3 AbilWax 2434 (1) STEAROXY DIMETHICONE 1.6 Dow Corning 200 Fluid (350 cs) (6) DIMETHICONE 0.5 Propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (5) PROPYLLPARABEN 0.05 5,7-dihydroxy-2-methyl-chromone (5) 0.2 B. 1,2 propanediol (5) PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3 Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (5) METHYL PARABS 0.15 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) ad 100 C. Probiol L 05018 (empty liposomes) (7) AQUA, ALCOHOL DENAT, LECITHIN, GLYCERINE, DISODIUM PHOSPHATE 5 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) 10.00 Compound Ia, Ib, Ic, Id or Ie 0.2 total 100.00

Production method:

First, phases A and B are heated to 80 ° C. Phase B is then slowly added to phase A with stirring and homogenized. It is then cooled and phase C is added at 40.degree.

Sources of supply:

(1) Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, (2) Cognis GmbH, (3) BASF SE, (4) Sasol Germany GmbH, (5) Merck KGaA / Rona®, (6) Dow Corning, (7) Kuhs GmbH & Co. KG

Example 10: W / O formulation

Components / trade name Source of supply INCI [% By weight] A. Dow Corning 3225 C (1) CYCLOMETHICONE, DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL 23.6 Propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (2) PROPYL PARABEN 0.05 Compound Ia, Ib, Ic, Id or Ie 0.1 B. Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (2) METHYL PARABS 0.15 1,2 propanediol (2) PROPYLENE GLYCOL 35.9 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) ad 100 total 100.00

Production method:

First phase B is dissolved and then it is added to phase A. The pH value is adjusted to pH = 6.0 with sodium hydroxide solution or citric acid.

Sources of supply:

(1) Dow Corning (2) Merck KGaA / Rona®

Example 11: O / W anti-aging cream with UV A / B protection

Components / trade name Source of supply INCI [% By weight] A. Eusolex® 2292 (1) ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, BHT 3 Eusolex® 4360 (1) BENZOPHENONE-3 0.5 Tego Care 150 (2) GLYCERYL STEARATE, STEARETH-25, CETETH-20, STEARYL ALCOHOL 8th Lanette O (3) CETEARYL ALCOHOL 1.5 Luvitol EHO (4) CETEARYL OCTANOATE 5 Miglyol 812 N (5) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 5 Paraffin liquid (1) PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL) 3 Abil-Wax 2434 (2) STEAROXY DIMETHICONE 1.6 Dow Corning 200 Fluid (350 cs) (6) DIMETHICONE 0.5 Propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (1) PROPYL PARABEN 0.05 Compound Ia, Ib, Ic, Id or Ie 1 B. 1,2 propanediol (1) PROPYLENE GLYCOL 3 Methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate sodium salt (1) SODIUM METHYLPARABS 0.17 Water, demineralized AQUA (WATER) ad 100 total 100.00

Production method:

First, phases A and B are mixed separately and heated to 80 ° C. Phase B is then slowly added to phase A with stirring. It is homogenized and cooled to room temperature.

Sources of supply: (1) Merck KGaA / Rona®, (2) Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, (3) Cognis GmbH, (4) BASF AG, (5) Sasol Germany GmbH, (6)

Claims (9)

1. Use of compounds of the formula I,

   

   where

   R¹ and R² stand, independently of one another, for
   -H,
   -OH,
   -straight-chain or branched O-(C₁- to C₆-alkyl),

   where R¹ and R² may also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, in which one or two non-adjacent CH₂ groups may be replaced by O and which may be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms,

   and/or salts, tautomers, conformers and/or solvates thereof, including mixtures thereof in all ratios, as self-tanning substance.
2. Use according to Claim 1, characterised in that R¹ in compounds of the formula I stands for H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 C atoms.
3. Use according to Claim 1 or 2, characterised in that R² in compounds of the formula I stands for H, OH or a straight-chain or branched alkoxy group having 1 to 4 C atoms.
4. Use according to Claim 1, characterised in that R¹ and R² in compounds of the formula I together form a five-membered ring containing two O atoms, which may be substituted by one or two straight-chain or branched alkyl group(s) having 1 to 6 C atoms.
5. Use according to one or more of Claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the compound of the formula I is selected from the compounds of the formulae Ia to le

   

   

   

   

   
6. Preparation comprising a vehicle which is suitable for topical applications, at least one compound of the formula I in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight,

   

   where

   R¹ and R² stand, independently of one another, for
   -H,
   -OH,
   -straight-chain or branched O-(C₁- to C₆-alkyl),

   where R¹ and R² may also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, in which one or two non-adjacent CH₂ groups may be replaced by O and which may be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms,

   and/or salts, tautomers, conformers and/or solvates thereof, including mixtures thereof in all ratios, and at least one further self-tanning substance.
7. Process for preparing a preparation according to Claim 6, characterised in that at least one compound of the formula I is mixed with a vehicle which is suitable for topical applications, the further self-tanning substance and optionally with other active substances or assistants.
8. Compounds of the formula I,

   

   where

   R¹ and R² stand, independently of one another, for
   -H,
   -OH,
   -straight-chain or branched O-(C₁- to C₆-alkyl),

   where R¹ and R² may also together form an unsubstituted or substituted five-membered ring, in which one or two non-adjacent CH₂ groups may be replaced by O and which may be substituted by at least one straight-chain or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms,

   and/or salts, tautomers, conformers and/or solvates thereof, including mixtures thereof in all ratios, for use for increasing melanin synthesis, for improving melanin transport and/or for improving the distribution of melanin in suprabasal layers.
9. Compounds according to Claim 8, selected from the compounds of the formulae Ia to le