[go: up one dir, main page]
More Web Proxy on the site http://driver.im/

EP3583261B1 - Sewing system and sewing procedure for the production of stitches - Google Patents

Sewing system and sewing procedure for the production of stitches Download PDF

Info

Publication number
EP3583261B1
EP3583261B1 EP18709257.2A EP18709257A EP3583261B1 EP 3583261 B1 EP3583261 B1 EP 3583261B1 EP 18709257 A EP18709257 A EP 18709257A EP 3583261 B1 EP3583261 B1 EP 3583261B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
seam
sewing
clamping device
pressure bar
thread
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP18709257.2A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3583261A1 (en
Inventor
Markus Immetsberger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
Original Assignee
Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH filed Critical Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
Publication of EP3583261A1 publication Critical patent/EP3583261A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3583261B1 publication Critical patent/EP3583261B1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Images

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B65/00—Devices for severing the needle or lower thread
    • D05B65/02—Devices for severing the needle or lower thread controlled by the sewing mechanisms

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a sewing system with at least one lockstitch sewing machine for producing at least one seam on a material to be sewn, in particular for producing at least one dart on the material to be sewn, the sewing system being provided with a driven material transport for a specific or determinable feed direction of the material to be sewn relative to stitch forming tools which is provided for producing the at least one seam on the respective material to be sewn, the material transport having a pressure bar with which the material to be sewn can be pressed against a sewing table and the material to be sewn can be moved past the stitch-forming tools to generate a feed movement.
  • a corresponding sewing system is, for example, from WO 01/90467 A2 known.
  • darts are to be worked in by introducing at least one straight or curved seam.
  • the darts usually have the function of changing a contour of the respective item of clothing, for example, to waist a shirt or a blouse.
  • such darts represent an additional sewing process that is usually carried out separately in industrial production, i.e. independently of other sewing processes on the item of clothing.
  • sewing systems specially provided for this purpose which include a lockstitch sewing machine.
  • the items of clothing are therefore brought to the sewing system for the production of darts, processed there accordingly and then transported to a machine for subsequent further processing steps.
  • the material to be sewn is usually introduced manually into the sewing system.
  • the feed of the material to be sewn relative to the stitch-forming tools, in particular to the needle and needle bar and the gripper of the sewing machine of the sewing unit, is generated by a motor and without the need for operator intervention.
  • the material to be sewn is usually advanced to produce a darts straight.
  • the length of the feed movement required can vary.
  • the material to be sewn is often clamped onto a table top by means of a pressure bar, with the pressure bar usually being movable in the XY direction. After the end of the sewing process on the respective material to be sewn, it is picked up by a removal device and taken out of the sewing unit in the feed direction of the sewing process and deposited at a stacking point.
  • a buttonhole sewing machine which is designed as a zigzag sewing machine and the design of which is intended to enable an improved quality of buttonholes.
  • the buttonhole sewing machine has a thread cutting and clamping device for the beginning of the thread, which can be moved in the initial area of the first buttonhole bead synchronously with a presser basket in the direction of the sewing needle in order to avoid the build-up of thread tension in the area of the needle thread end held clamped.
  • a thread cutting and clamping device is provided which is fastened to a presser basket functioning as a sewing foot and has a stationary lower cutter, a pivotable upper cutter and a thread clamping plate resting on the upper cutter.
  • the The thread cutting and clamping device moves synchronously with the presser basket, whereby the thread end clamped on the needle side is kept tension-free and thus covered by the first zigzag stitches of the first buttonhole bead.
  • the end of the thread is then released from the thread cutting and clamping device by a movement of the upper knife and completely covered by the following zigzag stitches.
  • the presser basket is lifted and the thread cutting and clamping device is moved from the waiting position to the cutting position.
  • the needle thread is cut like scissors above the buttonhole and the thread end piece on the needle side is held clamped between the upper knife and the thread clamping plate.
  • the invention is therefore based on the object of creating a possibility for darts to enable a seam start with no stitch formation errors and nevertheless a short thread start, without manual post-processing being required for this.
  • the beginning of the thread cannot be pulled down under the material to be sewn during sewing, and a clean stitch pattern can also be achieved at the beginning of the seam.
  • the seam has a short beginning of the thread, which makes it unnecessary to subsequently shorten the beginning of the thread at the seam.
  • the beginning of the thread is preferably already shortened shortly after sewing and above all during the sewing process that is still being carried out, without the sewing process necessarily having to be interrupted or slowed down for this purpose.
  • the sewing unit has a switchable cutting element that can be moved in and out in an area between the clamping device and the sewing material by at least one switching operation in a feed path of the upper thread on the sewing material in order to cut through the upper thread in this area. Since in this embodiment of the invention the cutting element is only briefly in the area of the sewn material, the risk of damage to the sewn material by the cutting element can be kept as low as possible despite the cutting process in the immediate vicinity of the sewn material.
  • the cutting element can also be just a single blade with preferably only one cutting edge, which comes into contact with the upper thread as a result of being arranged in the feed path of the sewing material.
  • the feed movement of the sewing material - and thus also of the upper thread that has already been sewn - is thus used to shorten the free beginning of the thread already during the creation of the seam, without interrupting the sewing process itself and without performing a cutting movement with the cutting element.
  • this preferred embodiment of the invention no longer requires more time for the execution of the sewing process.
  • the feed movement of the sewing material is also used to generate a relative movement between the cutting element and the upper thread that leads to the cutting of the upper thread.
  • a particularly favorable development of the invention can provide that, in order to produce a dart on a sewn material that is processed later, the needle thread is severed during or after the end of the sewing process for the dart on a previously processed sewn material, the previously processed sewn material from the sewing system is removed, the pressure bar is moved back into its receiving position and the opened clamping device is arranged in such a way that the free end of the upper thread is arranged in the clamping device due to the movement and positioning of the pressure bar, the clamping device is subsequently closed and then with the start of the sewing process for the sewing material now waiting for processing is started with the clamping device still closed.
  • the upper thread can be arranged in the clamping device in a particularly quick and process-reliable manner, without a further process step or additional physical means being required for this.
  • pressure bar should also be understood to mean pressure elements that have a design other than bar-shaped in order to clamp the sewing material or press it against a worktop of the sewing unit.
  • switch-forming tools are to be understood in particular as needles and, if appropriate, the needle bars and grippers that guide them, such as are customary in lockstitch sewing machines in particular for guiding upper and lower threads.
  • the exemplary embodiment shown of a sewing system 1 according to the invention for producing darts has a sewing machine 3 arranged on a worktop 2 .
  • the sewing machine 3 is a lockstitch sewing machine.
  • Such a sewing machine is provided with stitch-forming tools, which are known per se, including above all at least one needle for an upper thread, which is arranged on a needle bar and guided by it, and a rotary hook for a lower thread.
  • stitch-forming tools which are known per se, including above all at least one needle for an upper thread, which is arranged on a needle bar and guided by it, and a rotary hook for a lower thread.
  • the stitch-forming processes using the stitch-forming tools also take place in a conventional manner known per se for lockstitch sewing machines.
  • the sewing machine 3 with its stitch-forming tools is arranged in the area of a longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 and transversely to this longitudinal edge 4 .
  • a feed table 7 is located in the area of this longitudinal edge 4, starting from the corner 6 formed by the longitudinal edge 4 and a transverse edge 5 of the worktop.
  • the feed table 7 is used to receive blanks 9 and then transfer the respective blank 9 to a predetermined position on the worktop 2, from where the blank 9 is then automatically fed to the sewing process.
  • the feed table 7 can be moved toward the worktop 2 and reset again either manually or by a motor.
  • the material transfer 10 has, among other things, the function of an alignment aid for the respective blank in relation to the length of the Blank 9 in a direction transverse to the longitudinal edge 4 during the sewing process.
  • the material transfer has a drive 12 with which an angle 14 of the material transfer running parallel to the longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 can be displaced parallel to this longitudinal edge 4 .
  • this drive 12 is designed as a spindle stepper motor, the rotary drive movement of which leads to a linear displacement movement of the angle 14 by means of a suitable gear, as a result of which different depth arrangements of a blank can be set.
  • This depth of adjustment can at a Control of the sewing unit 1 are preset, whereby the drive executes this input before a sewing process or a series of sewing processes.
  • a needle bar 16 which can be moved up and down by means of a pneumatic drive and whose needles are directed towards corresponding recesses in the worktop 2 which are located directly in front of the horizontal leg 14a of the bracket 14 .
  • the blank 9 can be held in place between the needle bar 16 and the worktop 2 by a downward movement of the needle bar 16 .
  • the feed device 11 is provided for receiving the respective sewn material 9 for the sewing process and for advancing the sewn material 9 during the sewing process.
  • the feed direction 19 can run at least in a rectilinear direction parallel to the level of the essentially flat upper side of the worktop 2 .
  • the feed direction 19 can be moved in an X-Y plane parallel to the upper side of the worktop 2.
  • the feed device 11 of the exemplary embodiment is provided with a pressure bar 18 that can be moved along the feed direction 19, with which the respective material to be sewn 9 is picked up and can be moved relative to the stitch-forming tools.
  • the pressure bar 18 can thus be moved in the feed direction 19 from a first to a second end position, the sewing material being inserted and picked up in the first end position and removed in the second end position.
  • the first end position corresponds to the position of the blank which it has when the feed device 11 takes over the blank from the material take-over 10 before the feed device 11 moves in the feed direction 19 .
  • the second end position corresponds to the position of the feed device 11 or the blank 9, which this / this assumes after the end of the movement of the feed device 11 on the other side of the sewing machine 3, after the intended seam has been introduced into the sewing material 9.
  • a return from the second to the first end position is preferably carried out directly, ie along a distance line between the second and the first end position.
  • a drive can be provided for each of the two feed directions to carry out feed movements of the pressure bar 18, in particular an electric stepping motor in each case. By superimposing the drive movements of the two stepping motors, any predetermined feed movement within the XY plane can be achieved.
  • this drive of the pressure bar 18 is designed as a pneumatic cylinder.
  • a gap for receiving or for the subsequent removal of the sewing material 9 is released between the pressure bar 18 and a counter-plate arranged below it, which is referred to below as the table top.
  • the material to be sewn can be clamped between the table top and the pressure bar 18 by lowering the pressure bar 18 .
  • the top of the worktop 2 serves as such a tabletop.
  • the pressure bar 18 In its first end position, the pressure bar 18 is located - seen in the feed direction - at least with the section provided for receiving the sewing material, essentially in front of the sewing machine 3 and its stitch formation tools, so that the respective sewing material 9 is in front of the stitch formation tools in a predetermined manner before the start of the sewing process can be arranged and clamped. During the sewing process, the pressure bar 18 moves in the direction of the second end position and in doing so guides the sewing material 9 with it and the stitch-forming tools for seam formation. In the second end position, the pressure bar 18 is located behind the sewing machine and its stitch-forming tools together with the material to be sewn.
  • a clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18 and can be moved together with the pressure bar 18 during the feed movement.
  • the clamping device 25 is arranged on the pressure bar 18 in such a way that, in relation to the X-direction of the possible feed movements, the clamping device 25 is at least approximately at the height of the sewing foot 28 located.
  • the clamping device 25 has a clamping element 26 with a flat clamping surface which can be pressed against a counter-clamping element 27 .
  • the clamping element 25 can be automatically pressed against the counter-clamping element 27 and lifted again by a drive assigned to it alone, for example an electric motor or a pneumatic drive. By means of this movement, the free thread beginning 30a of the upper thread 30 guided through the needle 29 can be pressed by the clamping element 26 against the counter-clamping element 27 .
  • the sewing unit with a
  • Cutting device 33 for shortening the beginning of the thread 30a of the upper thread 30 is provided.
  • the cutting device 33 has a cutting element 34 in the form of a blade, the cutting edge 35 of which runs essentially transversely to the X feed direction.
  • the cutting edge 35 is in this case formed on that side edge of the blade which, in relation to the X feed direction, represents the rear side edge of the blade.
  • the cutting element 34 is also provided with an associated drive, with which the cutting element 34 can be inserted and removed essentially transversely to the X feed direction and parallel to the Y feed direction in the vicinity of the needle.
  • the seam course to be created in 3 is indicated by the line 20, the sewing material 9 is placed on the feed table 7 and transferred to the material takeover 10 by means of the feed table 7.
  • the sewing material 9 can, for example, be a blank for a women's blouse.
  • the pressure bar 18 and the sewing foot 28 are at the top and the feed table 7 is extended.
  • the sewing material 9 is held in place by means of the material takeover 10 and the feed table 7 moves back to its starting position by means of a drive movement of its drive.
  • the sewing process can begin.
  • the pressure bar 18 is pressed downwards against the table top and the sewing material 9 by means of a pneumatic cylinder.
  • the XY drive of the pressure bar 18 then positions it at "seam start".
  • the free end 30a of the needle thread 30 lies above the counter-clamping element 27 of the pressure bar 18.
  • the free end 30a was cut during the preceding seam production on another sewing material under the throat plate as close as possible to the needle hole by means of a further cutting element (not shown) arranged below a throat plate.
  • a further cutting element not shown
  • the needle thread end 30a produced in this way should protrude from the needle 29 with such a length that reliable sewing on of the seam that is now to be produced is ensured.
  • the sewing foot 28 is not shown for reasons of clarity.
  • the pressure bar 18 moves the sewing material 9 in the feed direction, in the representation of FIG figure 5 from right to left.
  • the cutting element 34 of the cutting device 33 is actuated, as a result of which it is moved from a waiting position to a cutting position. This movement is effected by a feed movement from the waiting to the separating position, which is aligned essentially parallel to the Y-direction and perpendicular to the X-direction of the feed movement of the pressure bar 18 .
  • the movement of the cutting element 34 from its one end position to the other takes place after at least the first stitch of the sewing and stitch-forming process and before the last stitch of the seam-forming process has been carried out without interruption.
  • the cutting element 34 is moved with its cutting edge 35 into an area between the clamping device 25 and the sewing material 9 . Due to the progressive feed movement of the sewing material 9, the tensioned end area of the upper thread 30 is guided to the blade and against the cutting edge 35 pressed, which leads to the cutting of the upper thread 30 close to the first puncture point of the needle 29 and close to the sewing foot 28. In this way, a short initial piece of upper thread 30 remaining on sewing material 9 has been produced.
  • the cutting element is pulled back into its waiting position immediately after the upper thread 30 has been severed.
  • This retraction takes place automatically and is caused by the control of the sewing unit, for example as a function of a specific number of stitches after the cutting element 34 has been transferred to the separating position.
  • the clamping device 25 remains closed during the retraction of the cutting element 34 and thus continues to hold the severed thread end during the further sewing process. Since the clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18, the clamping device 25, together with the pressure bar 18, also carries out its feed movement. As a result, the clamping device 25 is also guided past a suction device 37 in the course of the feed movement.
  • the controller causes the clamping device 25 to open by pivoting the clamping element 26 and, with a pulse of suction air, the suction device 37 sucks off the severed thread remnant 30b that previously covered the free end 30a of the illustrated upper thread.
  • the seam is now sewn to completion.
  • the material to be sewn 9 can then be removed automatically or manually and the pressure bar 18 can be moved back to its starting position to receive a new cut/sewn material 9 .
  • the sewing process can then be repeated one or more times in the same way, each time with a new blank/sewing material 9 .

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

Die Erfindung betrifft eine Nähanlage mit zumindest einer Doppelsteppstich-Nähmaschine zur Erzeugung von zumindest einer Naht an einem Nähgut, insbesondere zur Erzeugung von zumindest einem Abnäher am Nähgut, wobei die Nähanlage mit einem angetriebenen Nähguttransport für eine bestimmte oder bestimmbare Vorschubrichtung des Nähguts relativ zu Stichbildewerkzeuge versehen ist, die zur Erzeugung der zumindest einen Naht am jeweiligen Nähgut vorgesehen ist, wobei der Nähguttransport eine Druckleiste aufweist, mit welcher das Nähgut gegen einen Nähtisch drückbar und das Nähgut zur Erzeugung einer Vorschubbewegung an den Stichbildewerkzeugen vorbei bewegbar ist. Eine entsprechende Nähanlage ist beispielsweise aus der WO 01/90467 A2 bekannt.The invention relates to a sewing system with at least one lockstitch sewing machine for producing at least one seam on a material to be sewn, in particular for producing at least one dart on the material to be sewn, the sewing system being provided with a driven material transport for a specific or determinable feed direction of the material to be sewn relative to stitch forming tools which is provided for producing the at least one seam on the respective material to be sewn, the material transport having a pressure bar with which the material to be sewn can be pressed against a sewing table and the material to be sewn can be moved past the stitch-forming tools to generate a feed movement. A corresponding sewing system is, for example, from WO 01/90467 A2 known.

Bei manchen Nähstücken sollen sogenannte Abnäher mittels der Einbringung von zumindest einer geradlinig oder gekrümmt verlaufenden Naht eingearbeitet werden. Die Abnäher haben üblicherweise die Funktion, einen Konturverlauf des jeweiligen Bekleidungsstücks zu verändern, beispielsweise ein Hemd oder eine Bluse zu taillieren. In der industriellen Produktion von Bekleidung stellen solche Abnäher einen zusätzlichen Nähvorgang dar, der in der industriellen Produktion üblicherweise gesondert, d.h. unabhängig von anderen Nähvorgängen an dem Bekleidungsstück, ausgeführt wird. Für die Erzeugung von Abnähern ist es deshalb üblich, diese Abnäher mit eigens hierfür vorgesehenen Nähanlagen zu erzeugen, die eine Doppelsteppstich-Nähmaschine umfassen. Die Bekleidungsstücke werden deshalb hierfür zur Nähanlage für die Erzeugung von Abnähern gebracht, dort entsprechend bearbeitet und nachfolgend zu einer Maschine für nachfolgende weitere Bearbeitungsgänge transportiert.In the case of some sewing pieces, so-called darts are to be worked in by introducing at least one straight or curved seam. The darts usually have the function of changing a contour of the respective item of clothing, for example, to waist a shirt or a blouse. In the industrial production of clothing, such darts represent an additional sewing process that is usually carried out separately in industrial production, i.e. independently of other sewing processes on the item of clothing. For the production of darts, it is therefore customary to produce these darts with sewing systems specially provided for this purpose, which include a lockstitch sewing machine. The items of clothing are therefore brought to the sewing system for the production of darts, processed there accordingly and then transported to a machine for subsequent further processing steps.

Bei diesen Nähanlagen wird das Nähgut üblicherweise manuell in die Nähanlage eingebracht. Der Vorschub des Nähguts relativ zu den Stichbildewerkzeugen, insbesondere zur Nadel und Nadelstange sowie dem Greifer der Nähmaschine der Nähanlage, wird motorisch und ohne die Notwendigkeit eines Bedienereingriffs erzeugt. Üblicherweise erfolgt der Vorschub des Nähguts zur Erzeugung eines Abnähers geradlinig. Je nach Größe des Nähguts und Länge des Abnähers kann die Länge der erforderlichen Vorschubbewegung unterschiedlich ausfallen. Zur Erzeugung der Vorschubbewegung wird das Nähgut häufig mittels einer Druckleiste auf eine Tischplatte geklemmt, wobei die Druckleiste üblicherweise in X-Y-Richtung bewegbar ist. Nach Beendigung des Nähvorgangs am jeweiligen Nähgut wird dieses von einer Entnahmeeinrichtung erfasst und in Vorschubrichtung des Nähvorgangs aus der Nähanlage herausgeführt und an einer Stapelstelle abgelegt.In these sewing systems, the material to be sewn is usually introduced manually into the sewing system. The feed of the material to be sewn relative to the stitch-forming tools, in particular to the needle and needle bar and the gripper of the sewing machine of the sewing unit, is generated by a motor and without the need for operator intervention. The material to be sewn is usually advanced to produce a darts straight. Depending on the size of the material to be sewn and the length of the dart, the length of the feed movement required can vary. In order to generate the feed motion, the material to be sewn is often clamped onto a table top by means of a pressure bar, with the pressure bar usually being movable in the XY direction. After the end of the sewing process on the respective material to be sewn, it is picked up by a removal device and taken out of the sewing unit in the feed direction of the sewing process and deposited at a stacking point.

Die Erzeugung eines fehlerfreien Stichbildungsanfangs von Doppelsteppstichnähten stellt sich oftmals problematisch dar. Um eine fehlerhafte Stichbildung zu vermeiden, insbesondere um sogenannte Fadennester zu vermeiden, muß das aus der Nadel herausstehende Ende des Oberfadens eine bestimmte Mindestlänge aufweisen. Auch trotz eines relativ langen freien Fadenanfangs kann jedoch beim Annähen der Oberfadenanfang unter das Nähgut gezogen werden und dadurch die Entstehung von Fadennestern ermöglichen. Zudem hat ein relativ langer aus der Nadel herausragender Fadenanfang den Nachteil, daß an der fertigen Naht der Fadenanfang des Oberfadens auf der Sichtseite des Nähguts als langer Fadenanfang absteht. Da ein solcher langer, nicht vernähter, Fadenanfang als Qualitätsmangel des Nähguts empfunden wird, ist regelmäßig eine Nachbearbeitung erforderlich, weshalb oftmals von Hand diese Fäden nachträglich gekürzt werden. Dies bedeutet einen zusätzlichen kostenintensiven Aufwand bei der Herstellung von derartigem Nähgut.The creation of a flawless start of stitch formation of lockstitch seams is often problematic. In order to avoid flawed stitch formation, in particular to avoid so-called thread nests, the end of the upper thread protruding from the needle must have a certain minimum length. Despite a relatively long free beginning of the thread, however, the beginning of the upper thread can be pulled under the sewing material when sewing on, thereby enabling the formation of thread nests. In addition, a relatively long thread beginning protruding from the needle has the disadvantage that on the finished seam the thread beginning of the upper thread protrudes as a long thread beginning on the visible side of the sewn material. Since such a long, unsewn thread start is perceived as a quality defect in the sewn material, post-processing is regularly required, which is why these threads are often subsequently shortened by hand. This means an additional cost-intensive effort in the production of such sewing material.

Schließlich ist aus der DE 38 12 092 A1 ist bereits eine Knopflochnähmaschine bekannt, welche als Zick-Zack-Nähmaschine ausgebildet ist und deren Ausgestaltung eine verbesserte Qualität von Knopflöchern ermöglichen soll. Die Knopflochnähmaschine weist eine Fadentrenn- und -klemmvorrichtung für den Fadenanfang auf, die im Anfangsbereich der ersten Knopflochraupe synchron mit einem Stoffdrückerkorb in Richtung zur Nähnadel hin bewegbar ist, um den Aufbau einer Fadenspannkraft im Bereich des geklemmt gehaltenen Nadelfadenendes zu vermeiden. Hierbei ist an einem als Nähfuß fungierendeer Stoffdrückerkorb befestigte Fadentrenn- und -klemmvorrichtung vorgesehen, die ein stationäres Untermesser, ein verschwenkbares Obermesser und einem auf dem Obermesser aufliegenden Fadenklemmblech aufweist. Zur Klemmung des Oberfadenendes ist vorgesehen, letzteres zwischen dem Obermesser und einem Fadenklemmblech zu klemmen. Die Fadentrenn- und Klemmvorrichtung bewegt sich synchron mit dem Stoffdrückerkorb, wodurch das nadelseitig geklemmt gehaltene Fadenende spannungsfrei gehalten und somit durch die ersten Zickzackstiche der ersten Knopflochraupe überdeckt wird. Anschließend wird das Fadenende durch eine Bewegung des Obermessers von der Fadentrenn- und -klemmvorrichtung freigegeben und von nachfolgenden Zickzackstichen vollständig überdeckt. Nach Fertigstellung des Knopflochs wird eine Lüftung des Stoffdrückerkorbs eingeleitet und die Fadentrenn- und -klemmvorrichtung wird aus der Wartestellung in die Schneidstellung verbracht. Dabei wird der Nadelfaden oberhalb des Knopflochs scherenartig geschnitten und das nadelseitige Fadenendstück zwischen dem Obermesser- und dem Fadenklemmblech geklemmt gehalten.Finally is out of the DE 38 12 092 A1 a buttonhole sewing machine is already known, which is designed as a zigzag sewing machine and the design of which is intended to enable an improved quality of buttonholes. The buttonhole sewing machine has a thread cutting and clamping device for the beginning of the thread, which can be moved in the initial area of the first buttonhole bead synchronously with a presser basket in the direction of the sewing needle in order to avoid the build-up of thread tension in the area of the needle thread end held clamped. In this case, a thread cutting and clamping device is provided which is fastened to a presser basket functioning as a sewing foot and has a stationary lower cutter, a pivotable upper cutter and a thread clamping plate resting on the upper cutter. In order to clamp the end of the upper thread, it is intended to clamp the latter between the upper knife and a thread clamping plate. the The thread cutting and clamping device moves synchronously with the presser basket, whereby the thread end clamped on the needle side is kept tension-free and thus covered by the first zigzag stitches of the first buttonhole bead. The end of the thread is then released from the thread cutting and clamping device by a movement of the upper knife and completely covered by the following zigzag stitches. After the buttonhole has been completed, the presser basket is lifted and the thread cutting and clamping device is moved from the waiting position to the cutting position. The needle thread is cut like scissors above the buttonhole and the thread end piece on the needle side is held clamped between the upper knife and the thread clamping plate.

Der Erfindung liegt deshalb die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine Möglichkeit zu schaffen, um bei Abnähern einen stichbildungsfehlerfreien Nahtanfang und trotzdem einen kurzen Fadenanfang zu ermöglichen, ohne daß hierfür eine manuelle Nachbearbeitung erforderlich ist.The invention is therefore based on the object of creating a possibility for darts to enable a seam start with no stitch formation errors and nevertheless a short thread start, without manual post-processing being required for this.

Diese Aufgabe wird bei einer Nähanlage der eingangs genannten Art erfindungsgemäß durch die Merkmale von Patentanspruch 1 gelöst. Bei erfindungsgemäßen Nähanlagen gemäß des Oberbegriffs von Anspruch 1 sollte somit an der Druckleiste eine Klemmeinrichtung angeordnet und zusammen mit der Druckleiste bei deren Vorschubbewegung bewegbar sein, wobei die Klemmeinrichtung zum Klemmen, insbesondere - aber nicht ausschließlich - einem separaten Klemmen, eines Fadenanfangs des Oberfadens vorgesehen ist, und die Nähanlage ein Schneidelement aufweist, das zumindest temporär unmittelbar nach Beginn der Nahterzeugung in einem Bereich zwischen der Klemmeinrichtung und dem Nähfuß angeordnet ist, um den Oberfaden zwischen der Klemmeinrichtung und dem Nähfuß zu durchtrennen. Die Aufgabe wird auch durch ein Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 9 gelöst. Mittels einer solchen Lösung kann beim Annähen ein Herunterziehen des Fadenanfangs unter das Nähgut vermieden sowie ein sauberes Stichbild auch am Nahtanfang erreicht werden. Trotz dieser mit geringem technischen Aufwand erzielbaren Vorteile weist die Naht einen kurzen Fadenanfang auf, der kein nachträgliches Kürzen des Fadenanfangs an der Naht erforderlich macht. Mit der Erfindung wird der Fadenanfang vorzugsweise bereits kurz nach dem Annähen und vor allem während des noch ausgeführten Nähvorgangs gekürzt, ohne daß der Nähvorgang hierzu zwingend unterbrochen oder verlangsamt werden müßte.This object is achieved according to the invention by the features of patent claim 1 in a sewing unit of the type mentioned. In sewing systems according to the invention according to the preamble of claim 1, a clamping device should thus be arranged on the pressure bar and be movable together with the pressure bar during the feed movement, wherein the clamping device for clamping, in particular - but not exclusively - a separate clamping, a thread start of the upper thread is provided, and the sewing unit has a cutting element which is arranged at least temporarily immediately after the start of seam production in an area between the clamping device and the sewing foot in order to to cut the upper thread between the clamping device and the sewing foot. The object is also achieved by a method according to claim 9. By means of such a solution, the beginning of the thread cannot be pulled down under the material to be sewn during sewing, and a clean stitch pattern can also be achieved at the beginning of the seam. In spite of these advantages, which can be achieved with little technical effort, the seam has a short beginning of the thread, which makes it unnecessary to subsequently shorten the beginning of the thread at the seam. With the invention, the beginning of the thread is preferably already shortened shortly after sewing and above all during the sewing process that is still being carried out, without the sewing process necessarily having to be interrupted or slowed down for this purpose.

In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform weist die Nähanlage ein schaltbares Schneidelement auf, das in einen Bereich zwischen der Klemmeinrichtung und dem Nähgut durch zumindest einen Schaltvorgang in einen Vorschubweg des am Nähgut befindlichen Oberfadens ein- und ausfahrbar ist, um den Oberfaden in diesem Bereich zu durchtrennen. Da bei dieser Ausführungsform der Erfindung das Schneidelement sich nur kurzzeitig im Bereich des Nähguts befindet, kann hierdurch, trotz des Trennvorgangs in unmittebarer Nähe des Nähguts, die Gefahr einer Beschädigung des Nähguts durch das Schneidelement möglichst gering gehalten werden.In a preferred embodiment, the sewing unit has a switchable cutting element that can be moved in and out in an area between the clamping device and the sewing material by at least one switching operation in a feed path of the upper thread on the sewing material in order to cut through the upper thread in this area. Since in this embodiment of the invention the cutting element is only briefly in the area of the sewn material, the risk of damage to the sewn material by the cutting element can be kept as low as possible despite the cutting process in the immediate vicinity of the sewn material.

In einer bevorzugten Weiterbildung der Erfindung kann das Schneidelement auch nur eine einzelne Klinge mit vorzugsweise nur einer Schneide sein, die durch Anordnung im Vorschubweg des Nähguts in Kontakt mit dem Oberfaden gelangt. Die Vorschubbewegung des Nähguts - und damit auch des bereits vernähten Oberfadens - wird somit genutzt, um den freien Fadenanfang bereits während der Erzeugung der Naht zu kürzen, ohne hierbei den Nähvorgang selbst zu unterbrechen und ohne durch das Schneidelement eine Schneidbewegung auszuführen. Obwohl erfindungsgemäß mit dem Kürzen des Fadenanfangs beim gattungsgemäßen Nähprozeß ein weiterer Verfahrensvorgang ausgeführt wird, wird durch diese bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung nicht mehr Zeit für die Ausführung des Nähprozesses benötigt. Zudem wird die Vorschubbewegung des Nähguts zusätzlich auch zur Erzeugung einer zur Durchtrennung des Oberfadens führenden Relativbewegung zwischen dem Schneidelement und dem Oberfaden genutzt.In a preferred development of the invention, the cutting element can also be just a single blade with preferably only one cutting edge, which comes into contact with the upper thread as a result of being arranged in the feed path of the sewing material. The feed movement of the sewing material - and thus also of the upper thread that has already been sewn - is thus used to shorten the free beginning of the thread already during the creation of the seam, without interrupting the sewing process itself and without performing a cutting movement with the cutting element. Although according to the invention with the shortening of the beginning of the thread in the generic sewing process, a further method operation is carried out, this preferred embodiment of the invention no longer requires more time for the execution of the sewing process. In addition, the feed movement of the sewing material is also used to generate a relative movement between the cutting element and the upper thread that leads to the cutting of the upper thread.

Eine besonders günstige Weiterbildung der Erfindung kann vorsehen, daß für die Erzeugung eines Abnähers an einem später verarbeiteten Nähgut, der Oberfaden während der oder nach der Beendigung des Nähprozesses für den Abnäher an einem zuvor verarbeiteten Nähgut, durchtrennt wird, das zuvor verarbeitete Nähgut aus der Nähanlage entfernt wird, die Druckleiste in ihre Aufnahmeposition zurückbewegt und dabei die geöffnete Klemmeinrichtung derart angeordnet wird, daß das freie Ende des Oberfadens aufgrund der Bewegung und Positionierung der Druckleiste in der Klemmeinrichtung angeordnet wird, die Klemmeinrichtung nachfolgend geschlossen wird und anschließend mit dem Beginn des Nähprozeßes für das nun zur Verarbeitung anstehende Nähgut bei weiterhin geschlossener Klemmeinrichtung begonnen wird. Mit einer solchen Ausführungsform kann auf besonders schnelle und prozeßsichere Weise der Oberfaden in der Klemmeinrichtung angeordnet werden, ohne daß hierfür ein weiterer Verfahrensschritt oder zusätzliche gegenständliche Mittel erforderlich sind. Im Zusammenhang mit dieser und mit sämtlichen anderen Ausführungsformen der Erfindung sollen unter "Druckleiste" auch Druckelemente verstanden werden, die eine andere als leistenförmige Ausgestaltung haben, um Nähgut zu klemmen bzw. gegen eine Arbeitsplatte der Nähanlage zu drücken. Ausserdem sollen unter "Stichbildewerkzeuge" insbesondere Nadeln und gegebenenfalls die sie führenden Nadelstangen sowie Greifer verstanden werden, wie sie insbesondere in Doppelsteppstich-Nähmaschinen zum Führen von Ober- und Unterfäden üblich sind.A particularly favorable development of the invention can provide that, in order to produce a dart on a sewn material that is processed later, the needle thread is severed during or after the end of the sewing process for the dart on a previously processed sewn material, the previously processed sewn material from the sewing system is removed, the pressure bar is moved back into its receiving position and the opened clamping device is arranged in such a way that the free end of the upper thread is arranged in the clamping device due to the movement and positioning of the pressure bar, the clamping device is subsequently closed and then with the start of the sewing process for the sewing material now waiting for processing is started with the clamping device still closed. With such an embodiment, the upper thread can be arranged in the clamping device in a particularly quick and process-reliable manner, without a further process step or additional physical means being required for this. In connection with this and with all other embodiments of the invention, the term "pressure bar" should also be understood to mean pressure elements that have a design other than bar-shaped in order to clamp the sewing material or press it against a worktop of the sewing unit. In addition, "stitch-forming tools" are to be understood in particular as needles and, if appropriate, the needle bars and grippers that guide them, such as are customary in lockstitch sewing machines in particular for guiding upper and lower threads.

Weitere bevorzugte Ausgestaltungen der Erfindung ergeben sich aus den Ansprüchen, der Beschreibung und der Zeichnung.Further preferred configurations of the invention result from the claims, the description and the drawing.

Die Erfindung wird anhand von in den Figuren rein schematisch dargestellten Ausführungsbeispielen näher erläutert, es zeigen:

Fig. 1
eine perspektivische Darstellung einer erfindungsgemäßen Nähanlage mit in eine Vorschubeinrichtung eingelegtem Nähgut;
Fig. 2
eine Detaildarstellung aus Fig. 1 im Bereich der Nähmaschine und der sich in einer Ausgangsposition befindenden Druckleiste der Nähanlage; jedoch ohne Darstellung des Nähguts;
Fig. 3
eine Detaildarstellung gemäß Fig. 2 der Entnahmeeinrichtung der Nähanlage mit der Druckliste in der Position "Nahtanfang";
Fig. 4
eine Darstellung der Nähanlage aus Fig. 2 in einem Verfahrenszustand, in dem eine Klemmeinrichtung den Fadenanfang klemmt und ein Nähfuß angesenkt ist;
Fig. 5
eine weitere Darstellung gemäß Fig. 2 der Nähanlage, nach Beginn des Nähprozesses mit einem Schneidelement, das in eine Trennposition bewegt ist;
Fig. 6
eine Teildarstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Nähanlage aus einer weiteren Perspektive, nachdem der Fadenanfang des Oberfadens gekürzt ist und das Schneidelement zurückgezogen wird;
Fig. 7
eine weitere Teildarstellung der Nähanlage in einem Bereich, in dem eine Absaugvorrichtung zur Absaugung eines abgetrennten Fadenabschnitts angeordnet ist.
The invention is explained in more detail with reference to exemplary embodiments shown purely schematically in the figures, which show:
1
a perspective view of a sewing unit according to the invention with a feed device inserted into the sewing material;
2
a detailed view 1 in the area of the sewing machine and the pressure bar of the sewing unit, which is in a starting position; but without representation of the sewing material;
3
a detailed representation according to 2 the removal device of the sewing unit with the print list in the "seam beginning"position;
4
a representation of the sewing unit 2 in a process state in which a clamping device clamps the beginning of the thread and a sewing foot is lowered;
figure 5
another representation according to 2 the sewing system, after the start of the sewing process with a cutting element that is moved to a cutting position;
6
a partial representation of the sewing system according to the invention from a further perspective after the thread beginning of the upper thread is shortened and the cutting element is withdrawn;
7
a further partial representation of the sewing system in an area in which a suction device for sucking off a severed thread section is arranged.

Das in Fig. 1 gezeigte Ausführungsbeispiel einer erfindungsgemäßen Nähanlage 1 zur Erzeugung von Abnähern, weist eine auf einer Arbeitsplatte 2 angeordnete Nähmaschine 3 auf. Die Nähmaschine 3 ist eine Doppelsteppstich-Nähmaschine.This in 1 The exemplary embodiment shown of a sewing system 1 according to the invention for producing darts has a sewing machine 3 arranged on a worktop 2 . The sewing machine 3 is a lockstitch sewing machine.

Eine solche Nähmaschine ist mit an sich bekannten Stichbildewerkzeugen versehen, wozu vor allem zumindest eine an einer Nadelstange angeordnete und von dieser geführten Nadel für einen Oberfaden sowie ein Umlaufgreifer für einen Unterfaden gehören. Auch die Stichbildevorgänge unter Einsatz der Stichbildewerkzeuge erfolgen auf für Doppelsteppstich-Nähmaschinen in an sich bekannte und herkömmliche Weise.Such a sewing machine is provided with stitch-forming tools, which are known per se, including above all at least one needle for an upper thread, which is arranged on a needle bar and guided by it, and a rotary hook for a lower thread. The stitch-forming processes using the stitch-forming tools also take place in a conventional manner known per se for lockstitch sewing machines.

Wie insbesondere in Fig. 1 zu erkennen ist, ist die Nähmaschine 3 mit ihren Stichbildewerkzeugen im Bereich einer Längskante 4 der Arbeitsplatte 2 und quer zu dieser Längskante 4 angeordnet. Im Bereich dieser Längskante 4, ausgehend von der durch die Längskante 4 und einer Querkante 5 der Arbeitsplatte gebildeten Ecke 6, befindet sich ein Zuführtisch 7. Dessen Tischfläche ist auf die Größe der zuzuführenden, als Nähgut vorgesehene Zuschnitte 9, abgestimmt. Der Zuführtisch 7 dient zur Aufnahme von Zuschnitten 9 und anschließender Überführung des jeweiligen Zuschnitts 9 zu einer vorbestimmten Position auf der Arbeitsplatte 2, von wo aus der Zuschnitt 9 dann automatisiert dem Nähprozess zugeführt wird. Der Zuführtisch 7 kann hierzu entweder manuell oder motorisch angetrieben zur Arbeitsplatte 2 hin bewegbar und wieder rückstellbar sein.As in particular in 1 As can be seen, the sewing machine 3 with its stitch-forming tools is arranged in the area of a longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 and transversely to this longitudinal edge 4 . A feed table 7 is located in the area of this longitudinal edge 4, starting from the corner 6 formed by the longitudinal edge 4 and a transverse edge 5 of the worktop. The feed table 7 is used to receive blanks 9 and then transfer the respective blank 9 to a predetermined position on the worktop 2, from where the blank 9 is then automatically fed to the sewing process. For this purpose, the feed table 7 can be moved toward the worktop 2 and reset again either manually or by a motor.

Im Bereich der Längskante 4 der Arbeitsplatte 2 befindet sich zudem eine Stoffübernahme 10 sowie ein Nähguttransport für das jeweilige Nähgut, der nachfolgend als Vorschubeinrichtung 11 bezeichnet wird.-Die Stoffübernahme 10 hat unter anderem die Funktion einer Ausrichtungshilfe des jeweiligen Zuschnitts in Bezug auf die Erstreckungslänge des Zuschnitts 9 in einer Richtung quer zur Längskante 4 während des Nähvorgangs. Die Stoffübernahme weist einen Antrieb 12 auf, mit dem ein parallel zur Längskante 4 der Arbeitsplatte 2 verlaufender Winkel 14 der Stoffübernahme parallel zu dieser Längskante 4 verschiebbar ist. Im Ausführungsbeispiel ist dieser Antrieb 12 als Spindelschrittmotor ausgebildet, dessen rotative Antriebsbewegung durch ein geeignetes Getriebe zu einer geradlinigen Verschiebebewegung des Winkels 14 führt, wodurch unterschiedlich tiefe Anordnungen eines Zuschnitts einstellbar sind. Diese Einstelltiefe kann an einer Steuerung der Nähanlage 1 voreingestellt werden, wodurch der Antrieb diese Eingabe vor einem Nähvorgang oder einer Serie von Nähvorgängen ausführt.In the area of the longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 there is also a material transfer 10 and a sewing material transport for the respective sewing material, which is referred to below as the feed device 11. The material transfer 10 has, among other things, the function of an alignment aid for the respective blank in relation to the length of the Blank 9 in a direction transverse to the longitudinal edge 4 during the sewing process. The material transfer has a drive 12 with which an angle 14 of the material transfer running parallel to the longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 can be displaced parallel to this longitudinal edge 4 . In the exemplary embodiment, this drive 12 is designed as a spindle stepper motor, the rotary drive movement of which leads to a linear displacement movement of the angle 14 by means of a suitable gear, as a result of which different depth arrangements of a blank can be set. This depth of adjustment can at a Control of the sewing unit 1 are preset, whereby the drive executes this input before a sewing process or a series of sewing processes.

Im Bereich des Winkels 14 ist eine mittels eines pneumatischen Antriebs auf und ab bewegbare Nadelleiste 16 vorgesehen, deren Nadeln auf entsprechende Ausnehmungen in der Arbeitsplatte 2 gerichtet sind, die sich unmittelbar vor dem horizontalen Schenkel 14a des Winkels 14 befinden. Durch eine Abwärtsbewegung der Nadelleiste 16 kann der Zuschnitt 9 zwischen der Nadelleiste 16 und der Arbeitsplatte 2 festgehalten werden.In the area of the bracket 14 there is a needle bar 16 which can be moved up and down by means of a pneumatic drive and whose needles are directed towards corresponding recesses in the worktop 2 which are located directly in front of the horizontal leg 14a of the bracket 14 . The blank 9 can be held in place between the needle bar 16 and the worktop 2 by a downward movement of the needle bar 16 .

Die Vorschubeinrichtung 11 ist zur Aufnahme des jeweiligen Nähguts 9 für den Nähvorgang sowie zum Vorschub des Nähguts 9 während des Nähvorgangs vorgesehen. Die Vorschubrichtung 19 kann hierbei zumindest in einer geradlinig ausgerichteten Richtung parallel zur Ebene der im wesentlichen ebenen Oberseite der Arbeitsplatte 2 verlaufen. Im Ausführungsbeispiel kann die Vorschubrichtung 19 in einer X-Y-Ebene parallel zur Oberseite der Arbeitsplatte 2 bewegbar sein. Die Vorschubeinrichtung 11 des Ausführungsbeispiels ist mit einer entlang der Vorschubrichtung 19 bewegbaren Druckleiste 18 versehen, mit der das jeweilige Nähgut 9 aufgenommen und relativ zu den Stichbildewerkzeugen bewegbar ist. Die Druckleiste 18 ist somit in Vorschubrichtung 19 von einer ersten zu einer zweiten Endlage bewegbar, wobei das Nähgut in der ersten Endlage eingelegt und aufgenommen und in der zweiten Endlage entnommen wird. Die erste Endlage entspricht hierbei der Position des Zuschnitts, den dieser bei der Übernahme des Zuschnitts von der Stoffübernahme 10 durch die Vorschubeinrichtung 11 aufweist, bevor sich die Vorschubeinrichtung 11 in Vorschubrichtung 19 bewegt. Die zweite Endlage entspricht der Position der Vorschubeinrichtung 11 bzw. des Zuschnitts 9, den diese/dieser nach Beendigung der Bewegung der Vorschubeinrichtung 11 auf der anderen Seite der Nähmaschine 3 einnimmt, nachdem die vorgesehene Naht in das Nähgut 9 eingebracht ist.The feed device 11 is provided for receiving the respective sewn material 9 for the sewing process and for advancing the sewn material 9 during the sewing process. The feed direction 19 can run at least in a rectilinear direction parallel to the level of the essentially flat upper side of the worktop 2 . In the exemplary embodiment, the feed direction 19 can be moved in an X-Y plane parallel to the upper side of the worktop 2. The feed device 11 of the exemplary embodiment is provided with a pressure bar 18 that can be moved along the feed direction 19, with which the respective material to be sewn 9 is picked up and can be moved relative to the stitch-forming tools. The pressure bar 18 can thus be moved in the feed direction 19 from a first to a second end position, the sewing material being inserted and picked up in the first end position and removed in the second end position. In this case, the first end position corresponds to the position of the blank which it has when the feed device 11 takes over the blank from the material take-over 10 before the feed device 11 moves in the feed direction 19 . The second end position corresponds to the position of the feed device 11 or the blank 9, which this / this assumes after the end of the movement of the feed device 11 on the other side of the sewing machine 3, after the intended seam has been introduced into the sewing material 9.

Eine Rückstellung von der zweiten zur ersten Endlage erfolgt vorzugsweise auf direktem Weg, d.h. entlang einer Abstandslinie zwischen der zweiten zur ersten Endlage. Zur Ausführung von Vorschubbewegungen der Druckleiste 18 kann für jede der beiden Vorschubrichtungen ein Antrieb vorgesehen sein, insbesondere jeweils ein elektrischer Schrittmotor. Durch Überlagerung der Antriebsbewegungen der beiden Schrittmotoren kann jede vorbestimmte Vorschubbewegung innerhalb der X-Y-Ebene erreicht werden.A return from the second to the first end position is preferably carried out directly, ie along a distance line between the second and the first end position. A drive can be provided for each of the two feed directions to carry out feed movements of the pressure bar 18, in particular an electric stepping motor in each case. By superimposing the drive movements of the two stepping motors, any predetermined feed movement within the XY plane can be achieved.

Die im dargestellten bevorzugten Ausführugsbeispiel als längliches streifenartiges und im Querschnitt im wesentlichen als winkelförmiges Bauteil ausgebildete Druckleiste 18 kann mittels eines geeigneten weiteren Antriebs auf- und ab bewegt werden. Im Ausführungsbeispiel ist dieser Antrieb der Druckleiste 18 als pneumatischer Zylinder ausgebildet. Durch Anheben der Druckleiste 18 in Z-Richtung wird zwischen der Druckleiste 18 und einer darunter angeordnete Gegenplatte, die nachfolgend als Tischplatte bezeichnet wird, ein Spalt zur Aufnahme oder zur nachfolgenden Entnahme des Nähguts 9 freigegeben. Durch Absenken der Druckleiste 18 kann das Nähgut zwischen der Tischplatte und der Druckleiste 18 geklemmt werden. Im Ausführungsbeispiel dient die Oberseite der Arbeitsplatte 2 als eine solche Tischplatte. In ihrer ersten Endposition befindet sich die Druckleiste 18 - in Vorschubrichtung gesehen - zumindest mit dem zur Aufnahme des Nähguts vorgesehenen Abschnitts, im wesentlichen vor der Nähmaschine 3 und deren Stichbildewerkzeugen, so daß das jeweilige Nähgut 9 vor Beginn des Nähvorgangs vor den Stichbildewerkzeugen in vorbestimmter Weise angeordnet und geklemmt werden kann. Beim Nähvorgang bewegt sich die Druckleiste 18 in Richtung zur zweiten Endlage und führt hierbei das Nähgut 9 mit und den Stichbildewerkzeugen zur Nahtbildung zu. In der zweiten Endlage befindet sich die Druckleiste 18 zusammen mit dem dann vernähten Nähgut hinter der Nähmaschine und deren Stichbildewerkzeugen.The pressure bar 18, which in the preferred embodiment shown is an elongate, strip-like component and is designed essentially as an angular component in cross-section, can be moved up and down by means of a suitable further drive. In the exemplary embodiment, this drive of the pressure bar 18 is designed as a pneumatic cylinder. By raising the pressure bar 18 in the Z-direction, a gap for receiving or for the subsequent removal of the sewing material 9 is released between the pressure bar 18 and a counter-plate arranged below it, which is referred to below as the table top. The material to be sewn can be clamped between the table top and the pressure bar 18 by lowering the pressure bar 18 . In the exemplary embodiment, the top of the worktop 2 serves as such a tabletop. In its first end position, the pressure bar 18 is located - seen in the feed direction - at least with the section provided for receiving the sewing material, essentially in front of the sewing machine 3 and its stitch formation tools, so that the respective sewing material 9 is in front of the stitch formation tools in a predetermined manner before the start of the sewing process can be arranged and clamped. During the sewing process, the pressure bar 18 moves in the direction of the second end position and in doing so guides the sewing material 9 with it and the stitch-forming tools for seam formation. In the second end position, the pressure bar 18 is located behind the sewing machine and its stitch-forming tools together with the material to be sewn.

Wie insbesondere in Fig. 2 und 3 zu erkennen ist, ist an der Druckleiste 18 eine Klemmeinrichtung 25 angebracht und zusammen mit der Druckleiste 18 bei der Vorschubbewegung bewegbar. Die Klemmeinrichtung 25 ist derart an der Druckleiste 18 angeordnet, daß sich die Klemmeinrichtung 25 in Bezug auf die X-Richtung der möglichen Vorschubbewegungen zumindest in etwa auf der Höhe des Nähfußes 28 befindet. Zudem weist die Klemmeinrichtung 25 ein Klemmelement 26 mit einer ebenen Klemmfläche auf, die gegen ein Gegenklemmelement 27 drückbar ist. Das Klemmelement 25 ist durch einen ihm alleine zugeordneten Antrieb, beispielsweise einem Elektromotor oder ein pneumatischer Antrieb, selbsttätig gegen das Gegenklemmelement 27 drückbar und wieder abhebbar. Mittels dieser Bewegung kann der freie Fadenanfang 30a des durch die Nadel 29 geführten Oberfadens 30 durch das Klemmelement 26 gegen das Gegenklemmelement 27 gedrückt werden. Wie ebenfalls in Fig. 2 und 3 dargestellt ist, ist die Nähanlage mit einerAs in particular in 2 and 3 As can be seen, a clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18 and can be moved together with the pressure bar 18 during the feed movement. The clamping device 25 is arranged on the pressure bar 18 in such a way that, in relation to the X-direction of the possible feed movements, the clamping device 25 is at least approximately at the height of the sewing foot 28 located. In addition, the clamping device 25 has a clamping element 26 with a flat clamping surface which can be pressed against a counter-clamping element 27 . The clamping element 25 can be automatically pressed against the counter-clamping element 27 and lifted again by a drive assigned to it alone, for example an electric motor or a pneumatic drive. By means of this movement, the free thread beginning 30a of the upper thread 30 guided through the needle 29 can be pressed by the clamping element 26 against the counter-clamping element 27 . As also in 2 and 3 is shown, the sewing unit with a

Schneideinrichtung 33 für ein Kürzen des Fadenanfangs 30a des Oberfadens 30 versehen. Die Schneideinrichtung 33 weist ein als Klinge ausgebildetes Schneidelement 34 auf, deren Schneidkante 35 im wesentlichen quer zur X-Vorschubrichtung verläuft. Die Schneidkante 35 ist hierbei an jener Seitenkante der Klinge ausgebildet, welche in Bezug auf die X-Vorschubrichtung, die hintere Seitenkante der Klinge darstellt. Das Schneidelement 34 ist zudem mit einem ihm zugeordneten Antrieb versehen, mit dem das Schneidelement 34 im wesentlichen quer zur X-Vorschubrichtung und parallel zur Y-Vorschubrichtung in Nadelnähe ein- und ausführbar ist.Cutting device 33 for shortening the beginning of the thread 30a of the upper thread 30 is provided. The cutting device 33 has a cutting element 34 in the form of a blade, the cutting edge 35 of which runs essentially transversely to the X feed direction. The cutting edge 35 is in this case formed on that side edge of the blade which, in relation to the X feed direction, represents the rear side edge of the blade. The cutting element 34 is also provided with an associated drive, with which the cutting element 34 can be inserted and removed essentially transversely to the X feed direction and parallel to the Y feed direction in the vicinity of the needle.

Zur Erzeugung eines Abnähers, dessen zu erzeugender Nahtverlauf in Fig. 3 durch die Linie 20 angedeutet ist, wird das Nähgut 9 auf den Zuführtisch 7 gelegt und mittels des Zuführtischs 7 an die Stoffübernahme 10 übergeben. Das Nähgut 9 kann beispielsweise ein Zuschnitt für eine Damenbluse sein. In dieser Ausgangsposition der Nähanlage befinden sich die Druckleiste 18 und der Nähfuß 28 oben und der Zuführtisch 7 ist ausgefahren. Mittels der Stoffübernahme 10 wird das Nähgut 9 festgehalten und der Zuführtisch 7 fährt durch eine Antriebsbewegung seines Antriebs in seine Ausgangsposition zurück. Nachdem das Nähgut 9 mittels der Druckleiste 18 gegen die Tischplatte gedrückt ist, kann der Nähvorgang beginnen. Die Druckleiste 18 wird hierbei mittels eines Pneumatikzylinders abwärts gegen die Tischplatte und das Nähgut 9 gedrückt. Der X-Y-Antrieb der Druckleiste 18 positioniert diese dann auf "Nahtanfang".To create a dart, the seam course to be created in 3 is indicated by the line 20, the sewing material 9 is placed on the feed table 7 and transferred to the material takeover 10 by means of the feed table 7. The sewing material 9 can, for example, be a blank for a women's blouse. In this initial position of the sewing unit, the pressure bar 18 and the sewing foot 28 are at the top and the feed table 7 is extended. The sewing material 9 is held in place by means of the material takeover 10 and the feed table 7 moves back to its starting position by means of a drive movement of its drive. After the sewing material 9 has been pressed against the table top by means of the pressure bar 18, the sewing process can begin. The pressure bar 18 is pressed downwards against the table top and the sewing material 9 by means of a pneumatic cylinder. The XY drive of the pressure bar 18 then positions it at "seam start".

Das freie Ende 30a des Nadelfadens 30 liegt über dem Gegenklemmelement 27 der Druckleiste 18. Das freie Ende 30a ist bei der vorhergehenden Nahterzeugung an einem anderen Nähgut unter der Stichplatte möglichst nahe am Stichloch mittels eines nicht dargestellten und unterhalb einer Stichplatte angeordneten weiteren Schneidelements geschnitten worden. Das hierdurch erzeugte Nadelfadenende 30a soll jedoch mit einer solchen Länge aus der Nadel 29 herausragen, daß ein sicheres Annähen der nun zur Erzeugung anstehenden Naht gewährleistet ist.The free end 30a of the needle thread 30 lies above the counter-clamping element 27 of the pressure bar 18. The free end 30a was cut during the preceding seam production on another sewing material under the throat plate as close as possible to the needle hole by means of a further cutting element (not shown) arranged below a throat plate. However, the needle thread end 30a produced in this way should protrude from the needle 29 with such a length that reliable sewing on of the seam that is now to be produced is ensured.

In Fig. 4 ist gezeigt, daß der Nähfuß 28 anschließend nach unten bewegt wird. Gleichzeitig mit dem Nähfuß 28 wird die Klemmeinrichtung 25 betätigt. Hierdurch wird das freie Ende 30a des von der Nadel 29 kommenden Oberfadens 30 im Bereich des Fadenanfangs 30a zwischen dem Klemmelement 26 und dem Gegenklemmelement 27 an der Druckleiste 18 geklemmt. Der Fadenanfang 30a wird somit bei der Vorschubbewegung der Druckleiste 18 von dieser mitgenommen.In 4 is shown that the sewing foot 28 is then moved down. Simultaneously with the sewing foot 28, the clamping device 25 is actuated. As a result, the free end 30a of the upper thread 30 coming from the needle 29 is clamped in the region of the beginning of the thread 30a between the clamping element 26 and the counter-clamping element 27 on the pressure bar 18 . The beginning of the thread 30a is thus carried along by the pressure bar 18 during the feed movement of the latter.

In Fig. 5 ist der Nähfuß 28 aus Übersichtlichkeitsgründen nicht dargestellt. In dieser Figur ist zu erkennen, daß beim beginnenden Nähvorgang die Druckleiste 18 das Nähgut 9 in Vorschubrichtung bewegt, in der Darstellung von Fig. 5 von rechts nach links. Nachdem die ersten Stiche eingebracht sind und unter anderem der Oberfaden 30 am Nähgut angenäht ist, wird das Schneidelement 34 der Schneideinrichtung 33 betätigt, wodurch dieses von einer Warteposition in eine Trennposition verfahren wird. Diese Bewegung erfolgt durch eine Vorschubbewegung von der Warte- in die Trennposition, die im wesentlichen parallel zur Y-Richtung und senkrecht zur X-Richtung der Vorschubbewegung der Druckleiste 18 ausgerichtet ist. Die Bewegung des Schneidelements 34 von seiner einen zur anderen Endposition erfolgt, nachdem zumindest der erste Stich des Näh- und Stichbildungsprozess und bevor der letzte Stich der Nahtbildung unterbruchsfrei ausgeführt sind.In figure 5 the sewing foot 28 is not shown for reasons of clarity. In this figure it can be seen that when the sewing process starts, the pressure bar 18 moves the sewing material 9 in the feed direction, in the representation of FIG figure 5 from right to left. After the first stitches have been made and, among other things, the upper thread 30 has been sewn onto the material to be sewn, the cutting element 34 of the cutting device 33 is actuated, as a result of which it is moved from a waiting position to a cutting position. This movement is effected by a feed movement from the waiting to the separating position, which is aligned essentially parallel to the Y-direction and perpendicular to the X-direction of the feed movement of the pressure bar 18 . The movement of the cutting element 34 from its one end position to the other takes place after at least the first stitch of the sewing and stitch-forming process and before the last stitch of the seam-forming process has been carried out without interruption.

Das Schneidelement 34 wird hierbei mit seiner Schneidkante 35 in einen Bereich zwischen der Klemmeinrichtung 25 und des Nähguts 9 verfahren. Durch die fortschreitende Vorschubbewegung des Nähguts 9 wird hierbei der gespannte Endbereich des Oberfadens 30 an die Klinge geführt und gegen die Schneidkante 35 gedrückt, was zur Durchtrennung des Oberfadens 30 nahe an der ersten Einstichstelle der Nadel 29 und nahe am Nähfuß 28 führt. Auf diese Weise ist ein am Nähgut 9 verbleibendes kurzes Anfangsstück des Oberfadens 30 erzeugt worden.Here, the cutting element 34 is moved with its cutting edge 35 into an area between the clamping device 25 and the sewing material 9 . Due to the progressive feed movement of the sewing material 9, the tensioned end area of the upper thread 30 is guided to the blade and against the cutting edge 35 pressed, which leads to the cutting of the upper thread 30 close to the first puncture point of the needle 29 and close to the sewing foot 28. In this way, a short initial piece of upper thread 30 remaining on sewing material 9 has been produced.

Gemäß der Darstellung von Fig. 6 wird das Schneidelement unmittelbar nach Durchtrennung des Oberfadens 30 wieder in seine Warteposition zurückgezogen. Dieser Rückzug erfolgt automatisch und von der Steuerung der Nähanlage veranlaßt, beispielsweise in Abhängigkeit von einer bestimmten Anzahl an Stichen nach Überführung des Schneidelements 34 in die Trennposition. Im dargestellten Ausführungsbeispiel bleibt die Klemmeinrichtung 25 während des Rückzugs des Schneidelements 34 geschlossen und hält somit das abgetrennte Fadenende während des weiteren Nähvorgangs weiter fest. Da die Klemmeinrichtung 25 an der Druckleiste 18 angebracht ist, führt die Klemmeinrichtung 25 zusammen mit der Druckleiste 18 auch deren Vorschubbewegung aus. Hierdurch wird im Laufe der Vorschubbewegung die Klemmeinrichtung 25 auch an einer Absaugeinrichtung 37 vorbeigeführt. In dem Moment, in dem die Klemmeinrichtung 25 auf Höhe der Absaugeinrichtung 37 gelangt, veranlaßt die Steuerung eine Öffnung Klemmeinrichtung 25 durch Verschwenken des Klemmelements 26 und durch einen Impuls Absaugluft saugt die Absaugeinrichtung 37 den abgetrennten Fadenrest 30b ab, der zuvor das freie Ende 30a des Oberfadens darstellte. Die Naht wird nun fertig genäht. Das Nähgut 9 kann dann automatisch oder manuell entnommen und die Druckleiste 18 zur Aufnahme eines neuen Zuschnitts/Nähguts 9 in ihre Ausgangsposition wieder zurückgefahren werden. Der Nähprozess kann dann mit jeweils einem neuen Zuschnitt/Nähgut 9 in gleicher Weise ein- oder mehrfach wiederholt werden. Bezugszeichenlist 1 Nähanlage 29 Nadel 2 Arbeitsplatte 30 Oberfaden 3 Nähmaschine 30a Fadenanfang 4 Längskante 30b abgetrennter Fadenrest 5 Querkante 33 Schneideinrichtung 6 Ecke 34 Schneidelement 7 Zuführtisch 35 Schneidkante 9 Zuschnitt/Nähgut 37 Absaugeinrichtung 10 Stoffübernahme 11 Vorschubeinrichtung 12 Antrieb Stoffübernahme 14 Winkel 14a horizontaler Schenkel 16 Nadelleiste 18 Druckleiste 19 Vorschubrichtung 20 Nahtverlauf 25 Klemmeinrichtung 26 Klemmelement 27 Gegenklemmelement 28 Nähfuß According to the representation of 6 the cutting element is pulled back into its waiting position immediately after the upper thread 30 has been severed. This retraction takes place automatically and is caused by the control of the sewing unit, for example as a function of a specific number of stitches after the cutting element 34 has been transferred to the separating position. In the exemplary embodiment shown, the clamping device 25 remains closed during the retraction of the cutting element 34 and thus continues to hold the severed thread end during the further sewing process. Since the clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18, the clamping device 25, together with the pressure bar 18, also carries out its feed movement. As a result, the clamping device 25 is also guided past a suction device 37 in the course of the feed movement. At the moment when the clamping device 25 reaches the level of the suction device 37, the controller causes the clamping device 25 to open by pivoting the clamping element 26 and, with a pulse of suction air, the suction device 37 sucks off the severed thread remnant 30b that previously covered the free end 30a of the illustrated upper thread. The seam is now sewn to completion. The material to be sewn 9 can then be removed automatically or manually and the pressure bar 18 can be moved back to its starting position to receive a new cut/sewn material 9 . The sewing process can then be repeated one or more times in the same way, each time with a new blank/sewing material 9 . <b>Reference mark list</b> 1 sewing machine 29 needle 2 countertop 30 upper thread 3 sewing machine 30a beginning of thread 4 long edge 30b severed thread remnant 5 transverse edge 33 cutting device 6 Corner 34 cutting element 7 infeed table 35 cutting edge 9 cutting/sewing material 37 suction device 10 material transfer 11 feed device 12 drive material transfer 14 angle 14a horizontal leg 16 pin bar 18 pressure bar 19 feed direction 20 seam course 25 clamping device 26 clamping element 27 counter clamping element 28 presser foot

Claims (14)

  1. Sewing unit (1) having at least one lockstitch sewing machine (3) for producing
    van at least one seam on a seam material (9), in particular for producing van
    at least one seamer on the material to be seamed, the seaming
    unit being equipped with a seaming foot (28) and a driven seam material transport for a certain or determinable feed direction (19) of the seam material relative to stitch-forming tools is provided, the is provided for producing the at least one seam on the respective seam material (9),
    wherein the seam material transport has a pressure bar (18) with which
    the seam material is pressed against a table plate (2). (2) drOckbar and the close material for the production of a
    feed movement can be moved past the stitch-forming tools,
    characterized in that
    a clamping device (25) is arranged on the pressure bar (18) and is movable together with the pressure bar (18) during the advance movement thereof, the clamping device (25) being used for clamping a thread start (30a) of the pressure bar (18), and (30a) of the upper thread (30)
    and the sewing unit has a cutting element (34) which, at least temporarily, immediately after the start of the seam production, is moved into a
    Area between the clamping device (25) and the seam foot (28) is arranged to to cut the upper thread between the clamping device and the seam foot.
  2. Sewing plant according to at least one of the preceding claims, in that characterized in that the clamping device (25) is provided with a drive element and can be operated separately from the pressure bar (18).
  3. Close plant according to at least one of the two preceding claims, characterized in that a clamping element (26) of the clamping device (25) can be pivoted about a pivot axis to clamp the beginning of the thread of the upper thread (30).
  4. A sewing unit according to claim 3, characterized in that the swivel axis is aligned at least substantially parallel to the X feed direction of the pressure bar (18).
  5. A sewing unit according to claim 3 or 4, characterized by an arrangement of the clamping element (26), through which the clamping element (26) the thread to the Pressure bar, in particular on a counter clamping element (27) of the pressure bar (18), fixed.
  6. A sewing unit according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cutting element (34) is switchable to change from a Wait position to a separation position and vice versa, Oberfuhrt.
  7. A sewing machine according to at least one of the preceding claims, in that characterized in that the cutting element (34) is movable substantially transversely to the X-feed direction of the pressure bar (18) in order to reach a separation position.
  8. A sewing machine according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cutting element (34) is a single blade which is at least temporarily inserted in the path of advance of the cutting element (34) between the clamping device (25) and the sewing machine. and the seam material (9) is arranged at the beginning of the thread.
  9. Method for generating a pickup on a near material (9) by means of a Double-lockstitch sewing machine with a seam foot (28), in which the seam material (9) is fed into a seam unit (1). is introduced, by means of a driven close-loop transport with a determined or determinable feed direction of the seam material (9) relative to stitch-forming tools, which are used to produce the at least one seam on the (9) is provided, whereby the material (9) is transported by means of a Pressure bar (18} on a table plate (2) of the sewing unit and the at least a seam for creating the take-off is introduced into the seam material (9) in such a way that that the pressure bar (18) moves the seam material in a feed direction (19), preferably in a changeable feed direction, the stitch forming tools of the lockstitch sewing machine,
    characterized in that
    at the time of the beginning of the seam production, the thread beginning of the upper thread (30) is moved by means of a pressure bar (18) connected to and
    is clamped together with this moving clamping device (25) and immediately after the upper and lower thread have been approached to the seam material, a cutting element (34) is in a separating position in order to separate the upper thread (30) between the clamping device (25) and the seam foot (28). seam foot (28) to separate, while the sewing process is carried out and continued without interruption.
  10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that the cutting element is (34) is moved, after the start of seam formation and simultaneously with its ejection, into a separating position in the feed path of the free, unstitched thread area between the clamping device (25) and the material to be sewn, in order to trim the unstitched thread area by cutting.
  11. Method according to at least one of the preceding claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the upper thread (30) guided by a needle is already clamped by the clamping device (25) at the beginning of the stitch forming process.
  12. Method according to at least one of the preceding claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the pressure bar (18) is movable in an X-Y plane, the X-direction being the main direction of movement of the pressure bar in the production of take-offs, and the cutting element (34) is moved to its separation position by a movement substantially in the Y-direction.
  13. Method according to at least one of the preceding claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the section of the upper thread (30) between the clamping device (25) and the seam foot (28) is guided against the cutting element (34) by the advancing movement of the seam material (9) and is thereby separated due to the advancing movement.
  14. Method according to at least one of the preceding claims 9 to 13, characterized in that, for the production of a taker on a second material to be sewn, the upper thread (30), during the termination of the sewing process of the preceding production of a taker on a first material to be sewn, is
    the second material is removed from the sewing unit, the pressure bar (18) is moved back into its receiving position and the open clamping device (25) is arranged in such a way that the free end of the upper thread is arranged in the clamping device, the clamping device (25) is closed and then the second material is removed from the sewing unit, the pressure bar (18) is moved back into its receiving position and the open clamping device (25) is arranged in such a way that the free end of the upper thread is arranged in the clamping device, the clamping device (25) is closed and then the second material is removed from the sewing unit.
    of the sewing process for the first material with the clamping device (25) still closed.
EP18709257.2A 2017-02-16 2018-02-15 Sewing system and sewing procedure for the production of stitches Active EP3583261B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102017001537 2017-02-16
PCT/EP2018/000062 WO2018149547A1 (en) 2017-02-16 2018-02-15 Sewing system and sewing method for producing darts

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3583261A1 EP3583261A1 (en) 2019-12-25
EP3583261B1 true EP3583261B1 (en) 2022-12-07

Family

ID=61581217

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18709257.2A Active EP3583261B1 (en) 2017-02-16 2018-02-15 Sewing system and sewing procedure for the production of stitches

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3583261B1 (en)
CN (1) CN110892104B (en)
DE (1) DE102018001176A1 (en)
ES (1) ES2939938T3 (en)
PT (1) PT3583261T (en)
WO (1) WO2018149547A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111218778B (en) * 2020-02-27 2024-08-02 温州新固泰机械科技有限公司 Needle lifting wireless head device

Family Cites Families (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1685040B1 (en) * 1967-03-22 1971-07-29 Pfaff Ag G M Thread chain cutting device for bartack sewing machines
US3690276A (en) * 1971-03-18 1972-09-12 James Frank King Label sewing machine with thread cutter
DE3812092A1 (en) * 1988-04-12 1989-10-26 Duerkoppwerke BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE WITH A THREAD SEPARATOR AND CLAMPING DEVICE
JP3670065B2 (en) * 1995-07-24 2005-07-13 ジューキ株式会社 Presser cutting device
DE10023537A1 (en) * 2000-05-13 2001-11-22 Schips Ag Naehautomation Tueba Sewing machine for stitching an elastic band has a supply and a feed/cutter unit which moves in and out of the stitching zone to feed the band to the presser foot and cut the stitched band
BR0106658A (en) * 2000-05-24 2002-07-16 G M Pfaff Aktiengessellschaft Sewing device, with a control system, electronically programmable, for sewing pleats and tweezers
JP4616502B2 (en) * 2001-04-16 2011-01-19 Ｊｕｋｉ株式会社 Hole sewing machine
DE102005037063B3 (en) * 2005-08-05 2006-10-05 Beckmann Maschinen Gmbh Sewing of hood-shaped corner, e.g. for mattress cover, involves folding fabric over triangular blade, cutting protruding fabric and overlock stitching the edge
JP2011125386A (en) * 2009-12-15 2011-06-30 Nakanihon Juki Kk Sewing machine
CN102418245A (en) * 2011-09-06 2012-04-18 新杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 Thread grabbing method and mechanism for sewing machine
CN203625648U (en) * 2013-11-26 2014-06-04 新杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 Sewing machine sewing-start device with power thread cutting device
CN203593868U (en) * 2013-11-26 2014-05-14 新杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 Sewing machine sewing starting device with independent thread clamping device
CN204097705U (en) * 2014-10-24 2015-01-14 黄广全 The band thread cutter concora crush pin of the anti-Bird's Nest device of a kind of computer flat sewing machine
CN104805605B (en) * 2015-05-12 2018-07-10 浙江杜马缝纫机股份有限公司 The thread cutting mechanism of flat seam machine
CN205275900U (en) * 2015-12-29 2016-06-01 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 Sewing machine removes quick tool changing area sword presser foot of bird's nest

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
PT3583261T (en) 2023-03-13
CN110892104B (en) 2022-11-11
EP3583261A1 (en) 2019-12-25
DE102018001176A1 (en) 2018-08-16
CN110892104A (en) 2020-03-17
WO2018149547A1 (en) 2018-08-23
ES2939938T3 (en) 2023-04-28

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP0517045B1 (en) Yarn working machine, particularly embroidering machine with yarn changing apparatus
EP2336413B1 (en) Multi-needle-head embroidery machine, multi-needle-head for this machine, thread cutting element and thread cutter for this machine
DE69713416T2 (en) Method and device for avoiding seam loosening in a double chain stitch sewing machine
DE102007003449B4 (en) Automatic edging machine
DE102007018984A1 (en) Welting machine comprises a sewing machine body with two needles that are moved by a spindle motor in a vertical direction and form two parallel seams, a yarn guide, a binding device, a cloth feed mechanism, and a flap holding mechanism
DE19916660C1 (en) Buttonhole sewing machine has a control unit which determines the operation of the drives for cutting and stitching buttonholes of different shapes and/or sizes without manual resetting
DE102010016167B4 (en) Edging machine
DE10102529B4 (en) hemming
EP3583261B1 (en) Sewing system and sewing procedure for the production of stitches
DE102008036316A1 (en) Binding machine, has proximity control region for carrying out inverted abnormal stitch formation control, where stitch formation of seams are started and stopped so that calculated end position abnormality is provided in reverse manner
DE10102406A9 (en) EDGE SEWING MACHINE
DE69807591T2 (en) Method and device for knurling threads
DE3823945C2 (en)
EP4450692A1 (en) Method for operating a sewing machine for forming a button or lacing hole
DE19511786A1 (en) Fabric guiding system for automatic hemming of pocket openings
EP3516101B1 (en) Sewing machine with a pulling device and sewing process
DE69503747T2 (en) Automatic process and machine for weaving knitwear with a folded edge
EP3360994A1 (en) Double-lock-stitch sewing machine and method for generating an upper seam start thread with a low protrusion
EP2253753A2 (en) Method for sewing a sewn item
DE102008010353B4 (en) edging machine
DE68921026T2 (en) Industrial sewing machine that can perform multiple seams at the same time.
DE102017001536A1 (en) Sewing equipment, in particular for the production of darts
DE3830772C2 (en)
DE10231497A1 (en) Control apparatus of button hole sewing machine, controls drive of cloth cutter based on stored control data comprising length data of button hole and hole-stitching seam
DE102008053780A1 (en) Binding sewing machine for forming diagonal bag, has knife controller forming bevel cuts on sides of linear section such that cuts have different cutting lengths and both ends of each cut coincides with end positions of joint and/or section

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: UNKNOWN

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATION HAS BEEN MADE

PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION WAS MADE

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20190916

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

DAV Request for validation of the european patent (deleted)
DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
GRAP Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR1

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: GRANT OF PATENT IS INTENDED

INTG Intention to grant announced

Effective date: 20220610

GRAS Grant fee paid

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR3

GRAA (expected) grant

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE PATENT HAS BEEN GRANTED

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: B1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: GB

Ref legal event code: FG4D

Free format text: NOT ENGLISH

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: CH

Ref legal event code: EP

Ref country code: AT

Ref legal event code: REF

Ref document number: 1536353

Country of ref document: AT

Kind code of ref document: T

Effective date: 20221215

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R096

Ref document number: 502018011188

Country of ref document: DE

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: IE

Ref legal event code: FG4D

Free format text: LANGUAGE OF EP DOCUMENT: GERMAN

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: PT

Ref legal event code: SC4A

Ref document number: 3583261

Country of ref document: PT

Date of ref document: 20230313

Kind code of ref document: T

Free format text: AVAILABILITY OF NATIONAL TRANSLATION

Effective date: 20230306

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: LT

Ref legal event code: MG9D

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: NL

Ref legal event code: MP

Effective date: 20221207

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: NO

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20230307

Ref country code: LT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: FI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: ES

Ref legal event code: FG2A

Ref document number: 2939938

Country of ref document: ES

Kind code of ref document: T3

Effective date: 20230428

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: RS

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: PL

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: LV

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: HR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: GR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20230308

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: NL

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SM

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: EE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SK

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: IS

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20230407

Ref country code: AL

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: DE

Ref legal event code: R097

Ref document number: 502018011188

Country of ref document: DE

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: MC

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: CH

Ref legal event code: PL

PLBE No opposition filed within time limit

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009261

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: NO OPPOSITION FILED WITHIN TIME LIMIT

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: BE

Ref legal event code: MM

Effective date: 20230228

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: LU

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230215

Ref country code: LI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230228

Ref country code: DK

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

Ref country code: CH

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230228

26N No opposition filed

Effective date: 20230908

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: SI

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF FAILURE TO SUBMIT A TRANSLATION OF THE DESCRIPTION OR TO PAY THE FEE WITHIN THE PRESCRIBED TIME-LIMIT

Effective date: 20221207

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: IE

Ref legal event code: MM4A

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: IE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230215

Ref country code: FR

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230228

PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: PT

Payment date: 20231221

Year of fee payment: 7

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: BE

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230228

REG Reference to a national code

Ref country code: AT

Ref legal event code: MM01

Ref document number: 1536353

Country of ref document: AT

Kind code of ref document: T

Effective date: 20230215

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: AT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230215

PG25 Lapsed in a contracting state [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: AT

Free format text: LAPSE BECAUSE OF NON-PAYMENT OF DUE FEES

Effective date: 20230215

PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: RO

Payment date: 20240207

Year of fee payment: 7

Ref country code: DE

Payment date: 20240219

Year of fee payment: 7

Ref country code: CZ

Payment date: 20240206

Year of fee payment: 7

Ref country code: GB

Payment date: 20240219

Year of fee payment: 7

PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: TR

Payment date: 20240209

Year of fee payment: 7

Ref country code: IT

Payment date: 20240228

Year of fee payment: 7

PGFP Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo]

Ref country code: ES

Payment date: 20240328

Year of fee payment: 7