EP2923599B1 - Applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, and method for manufacturing such an applicator - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to an applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular a mascara. The invention further relates to a method for manufacturing such an applicator.

Mascara applicators can be injection molded from plastic, so they are commonly referred to as "plastic brushes". They can also be obtained from fibrous elements held between the longitudinal parts of a twisted metal pin; they are then commonly called "twisted brushes". Cosmetic product applicators have a core, or central part, and spikes extending radially around said core. The ends of said pins usually form envelopes elongated in a direction of longitudinal extension of said applicator. The pins of the twisted brushes are commonly referred to as "the fibers".

The plastic brushes of the prior art have distributions of pins around the core which allow the production of complex envelopes promoting makeup. With regard to twisted brushes, such characteristics seem more difficult to obtain, unless one calls for operations to cut the fibers along paths that are difficult to implement.

A cosmetic product applicator of the prior art is known from the document FR 2 991 560 . The invention aims to improve the situation and relates to an applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, as defined in claim 1. The applicator comprises a twisted core and fibers which extend from the core in being held by said core, said core having a distal end and a proximal end, said fibers forming an envelope with their free end.

According to the invention, said envelope has curved faces having at least one slope, or inclination, from said distal end to said proximal end, said slope or inclination changing direction from one face to the other so that said envelope has hollows alternating with reliefs around said core, that is to say by rotating around said core in a plane orthogonal thereto and this, advantageously, all along the core from its distal end to its proximal end. By “curved faces” is meant non-planar faces. Faces with simple surface undulations are also not understood to be curved.

The applicator of the invention proposes a particular arrangement of fibers which offers specific advantages for the distribution of mascara, for example concerning functions such as loading or combing. This arrangement improves the effects of thickening the eyelashes, lengthening the eyelashes and / or separating the eyelashes induced by the application of mascara using the applicator of the invention, this with choices of profiles which remain relatively easy to obtain. In addition, the use of a twisted brush, such as the applicator of the invention, allows a greater density of fibers than with the pins of the plastic brushes.

• lesdites fibres sont réparties autour de ladite âme sur une partie substantielle de sa longueur à partir de l'extrémité distale,
• ladite extrémité proximale est prolongée par une tige dépourvue de fibres,
• lesdites faces sont délimitées par des bords latéraux disjoints, c'est-à-dire des bords ne présentant pas de point commun, y compris au niveau de leurs extrémités longitudinales,
• la direction de ladite pente, ou inclinaison, s'inverse alternativement autour de ladite âme, d'une face à l'autre,
• ladite enveloppe comporte au moins deux paires de faces,
• chaque face appartenant à une dite paire est opposée à l'autre face de ladite paire par rapport à l'âme de la brosse,
• les deux faces d'une même paire ont des pentes, ou inclinaisons opposées,
• la direction desdites pentes, ou inclinaisons, s'inversent de direction d'une paire de faces à l'autre,
• les faces d'une même paire sont symétriques par rapport à un plan médian comprenant l'âme,
• l'enveloppe comporte une paire de faces courbées sensiblement convexes de l'extrémité distale à l'extrémité proximale de l'âme, et une paire de faces courbées sensiblement concaves de l'extrémité distale à l'extrémité proximale de l'âme,
• l'âme présente un niveau situé entre ses extrémités distale et proximale, dit niveau intermédiaire, notamment sensiblement équidistant desdites extrémités distale et proximale,
• l'enveloppe comporte une paire de faces courbées qui présentent une ondulation concave de l'extrémité distale audit niveau intermédiaire et une ondulation convexe dudit niveau intermédiaire à l'extrémité proximale, et une paire de faces courbées qui présentent une ondulation convexe de l'extrémité distale audit niveau intermédiaire et une ondulation concave dudit niveau intermédiaire à l'extrémité proximale,
• chacune des faces courbées est générée par une droite, dite droite génératrice, ladite droite génératrice étant orthogonale à l'âme et orthogonale au plan de symétrie de ladite face,
• l'enveloppe présente une section transversale dans un plan sensiblement orthogonal à l'âme, dont la forme est un polygone, tout le long de ladite âme, de ladite extrémité distale à ladite extrémité proximale,
• ladite forme est notamment un quadrilatère, voire un rectangle,
• ladite enveloppe présente des chanfreins au niveau de tout ou partie de ses faces, à l'extrémité distale de ladite âme,
• ladite enveloppe comprend au moins deux faces opposées avec des chanfreins symétriques par rapport à ladite âme,
• ladite enveloppe est une enveloppe hélicoïdale,
• ladite âme est constituée d'une tige torsadée,
• l'âme est droite.

According to different embodiments of the invention, which can be taken together or separately:

• said fibers are distributed around said core over a substantial part of its length from the distal end,
• said proximal end is extended by a rod devoid of fibers,
• said faces are delimited by separate lateral edges, that is to say edges not having a common point, including at their longitudinal ends,
• the direction of said slope, or inclination, reverses alternately around said web, from one face to the other,
• said envelope has at least two pairs of faces,
• each face belonging to a said pair is opposite to the other face of said pair with respect to the core of the brush,
• the two faces of the same pair have opposite slopes, or inclinations,
• the direction of said slopes, or inclinations, reverse direction from one pair of faces to the other,
• the faces of the same pair are symmetrical with respect to a median plane comprising the core,
• the shell has a pair of substantially convex curved faces from the distal end to the proximal end of the core, and a pair of substantially concave curved faces from the distal end to the proximal end of the core,
• the core has a level located between its distal and proximal ends, called intermediate level, in particular substantially equidistant from said distal and proximal ends,
• the casing has a pair of curved faces which have a concave corrugation from the distal end to said intermediate level and a convex corrugation from said intermediate level to the proximal end, and a pair of curved faces which have a convex corrugation from the end distal to said intermediate level and a concave undulation from said intermediate level to the proximal end,
• each of the curved faces is generated by a straight line, called a generating straight line, said generating straight line being orthogonal to the core and orthogonal to the plane of symmetry of said face,
• the envelope has a cross section in a plane substantially orthogonal to the core, the shape of which is a polygon, all along said core, from said distal end to said proximal end,
• said shape is in particular a quadrilateral, or even a rectangle,
• said envelope has chamfers at all or part of its faces, at the distal end of said core,
• said envelope comprises at least two opposite faces with symmetrical chamfers with respect to said web,
• said envelope is a helical envelope,
• said core consists of a twisted rod,
• the soul is upright.

• une étape de positionnement d'une pluralité de fibres entre des parties longitudinales d'une broche, puis
• une première étape de torsion de ladite broche pour former une broche torsadée présentant des fibres s'étendant radialement autour d'elle, les extrémités desdites fibres formant une enveloppe cylindrique s'étendant dans une direction d'extension longitudinale autour de la dite broche, puis
• une étape découpe des fibres, de manière à ce que lesdites fibres forment une enveloppe avec leur extrémité libre, ladite enveloppe présentant des faces courbées ayant au moins une pente, ou inclinaison, de ladite extrémité distale à ladite extrémité proximale, ladite pente ou inclinaison changeant de direction d'une face à l'autre de sorte que ladite enveloppe présente des creux alternant avec des reliefs autour de ladite âme, notamment une enveloppe telle que celle évoquée plus haut.

The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing an applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, as defined in claim 12, said method comprising:

• a step of positioning a plurality of fibers between longitudinal portions of a spindle, then
• a first step of twisting said spindle to form a twisted spindle having fibers extending radially around it, the ends of said fibers forming a cylindrical envelope extending in a direction of longitudinal extension around said spindle, then
• a step of cutting fibers, so that said fibers form an envelope with their free end, said envelope having curved faces having at least one slope, or inclination, from said distal end to said proximal end, said slope or inclination changing direction from one face to the other so that said envelope has recesses alternating with reliefs around of said core, in particular an envelope such as that mentioned above.

The applicator thus manufactured has the advantage of comprising a distribution of fibers, the ends of which form a complex envelope around its core, using an operation which remains simple to implement, namely, here, a cutting step.

• ledit procédé comprend une seconde étape de torsion de ladite broche après ladite étape de découpe des fibres,
• ladite découpe est à commande numérique.

According to different embodiments of the invention, which can be taken together or separately:

• said method comprises a second step of twisting said spindle after said step of cutting the fibers,
• said cutting is numerically controlled.

The invention also relates to a receptacle for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, containing an applicator as described above.

The invention will be better understood, and other aims, details, characteristics and advantages thereof will emerge more clearly in the course of the detailed explanatory description which follows, of at least one embodiment of the invention given to by way of purely illustrative and non-limiting example, with reference to the appended schematic drawings.

• la figure 1 est une vue de face d'un premier mode de réalisation d'un applicateur selon l'invention,
• la figure 2 représente l'applicateur de la figure 1 après que celui-ci ait été tourné d'un quart de tour autour de son axe longitudinal,
• la figure 3 est une vue de face d'un second mode de réalisation d'un applicateur selon l'invention,
• la figure 4 représente l'applicateur de la figure 3 après que celui-ci ait été tourné d'un quart de tour autour de son axe longitudinal.

On these drawings:

• the figure 1 is a front view of a first embodiment of an applicator according to the invention,
• the figure 2 represents the applicator of the figure 1 after it has been turned a quarter of a turn around its longitudinal axis,
• the figure 3 is a front view of a second embodiment of an applicator according to the invention,
• the figure 4 represents the applicator of the figure 3 after it has been rotated a quarter of a turn around its longitudinal axis.

The invention relates to an applicator 10 for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, comprising a twisted core 12 and fibers which extend from the core 12 while being held by said core 12.

The core 12 is here formed by a metal rod, or pin, comprising two branches, or longitudinal parts, optionally connected to each other by a curved part. Said metal rod is, for example, folded in half so as to form a “U”, the branches of the U then being twisted together.

The fibers extend radially from the core 12, between a distal end 16 and a proximal end 14 of the core 12. The fibers each have a free end and form an envelope E with it. The figures 1 to 4 illustrate in particular two embodiments of an envelope E according to the invention. The envelope impression will of course be more or less present depending on the density of the fibers.

The applicator 10 extends in a main direction of longitudinal extension, or main axis, which is marked X on the figures 1 to 4 . This axis X is also advantageously the axis of the core 12. The core 12 will therefore be advantageously straight.

Thus, the fibers extend radially, from the core 12, that is to say transversely to the X axis, to form different envelopes E with their free end, between the distal 16 and proximal 14 ends of the core 12. These ends 14, 16 are opposite relative to the X axis and are spaced, along said X axis, by a distance marked H on the figures 1 and 3 . Said distance H is, for example, between 22mm and 30mm, and substantially equal, for example, to 26mm, or even to 27mm. It should be noted that the proximal end 14 is here extended by a portion of the rod devoid of fibers.

As shown on the figures 1 to 4 , the envelope E has curved faces F1-F4 having at least one slope, or inclination, from said distal end 16 to said proximal end 14.

Said slopes or inclinations change direction from one face F1, F3 to the other F2, F4 so that said envelope E has hollows alternating with reliefs around said web 12, that is to say by rotating around of said soul in a plane orthogonal thereto and this, advantageously, all along the core 12, from its distal end 16 to its proximal end 14.

So on the figure 1 , the hollows are located in the vicinity of an intermediate line 15 located between the distal 16 and proximal 14 ends. Said intermediate line 15 belongs to a plane substantially orthogonal to the X axis which comprises an intermediate point of the X axis, said point advantageously being equidistant from said ends 14, 16. The distance h15 separating the proximal end 14 from this intermediate line 15, along said axis X, is substantially equal, for example, to 13mm. This intermediate line 15 is an imaginary line which follows the periphery of the envelope E.

Conversely, when the applicator 10 is observed from the side, as illustrated in figure 2 , the hollows are close to the distal and proximal ends 14, 16 and the reliefs, close to the intermediate line 15.

The envelope E of the embodiment illustrated on figures 1 and 2 therefore comprises a pair of substantially convex curved faces F2, F4 from the distal end 16 to the proximal end 14 of the core 12.

It should be noted that the figure 1 illustrates the face F2 by its contours, in a plane (that of the sheet); however, the curvature in space of said face F2 is visible on the figure 2 because it is represented there in profile.

The envelope E of the embodiment illustrated on figures 1 and 2 further comprises a pair of substantially concave curved faces F1, F3 from the distal end 16 to the proximal end 14 of the core 12 (illustrated on figure 2 but whose curvature in space is visible on the figure 1 ).

The figures 3 and 4 illustrate another embodiment of an applicator 10 according to the invention. So on the figure 3 , the hollows are located between the distal end 16 and the intermediate line 15 as well as in the vicinity of the proximal end 14, while the reliefs are located in the vicinity of the proximal end 16 as well as between the intermediate line 15 and the proximal end 14.

Conversely, when the applicator 10 is observed from the side, as illustrated in figure 4 , the hollows are located in the vicinity of the distal end 16 as well as between the intermediate line 15 and the proximal end 14, while the reliefs are located between the distal end 16 and the intermediate line 15 as well as in the vicinity of the proximal end 14.

The envelope E of the embodiment of figures 3 and 4 therefore comprises a pair of curved faces F1, F3 which have a concave corrugation from the distal end 16 to said intermediate line 15 and a convex corrugation from said intermediate line 15 to the proximal end 14; the contour of these faces F1, F3 is represented at figure 4 but their curvature in space is only visible on the figure 3 , said faces F1, F3 being seen there in profile.

The envelope E of the embodiment of figures 3 and 4 further comprises a pair of curved faces F2, F4 which have a convex corrugation from the distal end 16 to said intermediate line 15 and a concave corrugation from said intermediate line 15 to the proximal end 14; the contour of these faces F2, F4 is shown at figure 3 , their curvature in space being visible on the figure 4 .

By way of example, the concave curvatures mentioned above will advantageously have a radius of curvature, marked Rmin on the figures 3 and 4 , which is between 15 and 20mm and which is substantially equal to 17mm, preferably 17.3mm. Likewise, the convex curvatures mentioned above will advantageously have a radius of curvature Rmax of between 17.5 and 22.5mm and substantially equal to 20mm.

The envelopes E of the embodiments which have just been described each comprise two pairs of faces F1, F3 and F2, F4, symmetrical two by two with respect to a median plane comprising the core 12. These two embodiments are not not limiting and the applicator 10 may have three, or even four, or even six pairs of symmetrical faces two by two, this without departing from the scope of the invention.

Each face belonging to a said pair is opposite to the other face of said pair with respect to the core of the brush, or even symmetrical with respect to a median plane passing through the core, and the two faces of the same pair will have the same slopes, or inclinations, except for the sign, the slopes or inclinations changing direction from one pair of faces to the other. More precisely, said slopes, or inclinations, reverse direction from one pair of faces to the other.

Thus, when the applicator 10 of the invention is seen from the front, then the observer rotates it around the axis of symmetry X of its core 12, he sees the faces F1-F4 alternating with the slopes which change, and more particularly, faces with slopes that reverse, this in an alternating manner and all along the X axis.

This alternation of slopes around and along the core 12 advantageously makes it possible to alternate combing surfaces and load surfaces around and along the applicator 10.

It should be noted that said faces F1-F4 are advantageously generated by a straight line, called a generating line, orthogonal to the core 12 and orthogonal to the plane of symmetry of each of said faces F1-F4. Thus, the envelope has a cross section in a plane substantially orthogonal to said X axis, the shape of which is a polygon, all along said core 12, from said distal end 16 to said proximal end 14, said shape being in particular a quadrilateral , or even a rectangle, in particular at the level of the intermediate line 15.

The faces F1-F4 are, moreover, delimited by disjoint side edges. In other words, the faces F1-F4 are delimited by edges - the lateral edges - which are curves parameterized in a three-dimensional orthonormal Cartesian coordinate system, one of said dimensions being coincident with the direction of said X axis, the coordinates of said curves parameterized evolving in the three directions of said Cartesian coordinate system and said parameterized curves not coinciding at any point between said distal 16 and proximal 14 ends.

Said edges therefore have a complex outline, although obtained with faces which remain easy to produce. This line is particularly advantageous for hooking the eyelashes and lengthening them.

To facilitate the return of the brush 10 in its receptacle, the casing of the applicator 10 may have chamfers 20 at the level of some of its faces, at the distal end 16 of the core 12. In fact, the distal end 16 is usually that through which contact with the receptacle is made when the user stores the applicator 10 after use. Preferably, the envelope comprises at least two opposite faces F1, F3, with chamfers 20 symmetrical with respect to a median plane passing through said web 12. The height of these chamfers 20 will be between 0 (absence of chamfers) and 5mm.

It is interesting to note that the width of the envelope E is functionally linked to the advantages of the applicator 10; said width varies along the X axis, between extremes, said extremes being marked dmax , dmin on the figures 1 to 4 . dmax , dmin correspond, moreover, to the diameters of the envelope in the vicinity of the vertices of the reliefs for dmax and of the hollows for dmin .

Thus, the following formula will be advantageously respected: 0.125 ≤ dmin / dmax ≤ 0.625.

For example, dmax will be between 6 and 8mm and dmin will be between 3 and 4.5mm.

The invention also relates to a process for the manufacture of an applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, for example that which has just been described.

This method firstly comprises a step of positioning a plurality of fibers between longitudinal portions of a spindle (not shown). The fibers are distributed such that said longitudinal portions pass substantially through the middle of each of said fibers.

The next step of said process is a first step of twisting said spindle to form a twisted spindle having fibers extending radially around it. The ends of said fibers then form a cylindrical envelope extending in a direction of longitudinal extension around said spindle. The fibers are distributed in the form of turns of fibers due to the twisting of the spindle.

The following step is a step of cutting the fibers, so that said fibers form an envelope E with their free end, said envelope E having curved faces F1-F4 having at least one slope, or inclination, of said distal end to said proximal end, said slope or inclination changing direction from one face F1, F3 to the other F2, F4 so that said envelope E has recesses alternating with reliefs around said core 12, in particular an envelope E such as that mentioned above. Said cutting may be numerically controlled.

Advantageously, the portion of the pin devoid of fibers which extends the proximal end 14 will be intended to be fixed inside a hollow rod, itself linked to a handle by which the user will handle said applicator. It is twisted or not.

It should be noted that the applicator of the invention advantageously forms a twisted brush.

It should also be noted that the embodiments illustrated in figures 1 to 4 can advantageously be combined in order to combine the make-up effects, or even with the aim of obtaining new ones.

It should also be noted that variant embodiments are of course possible. In particular, it is also conceivable, in an embodiment not illustrated here, to provide the envelope E in a helical form. In other words, the edges of the faces described above may follow a helix from the proximal end 14 to the distal end 16 of the applicator 10, for example by virtue of a second twisting step of the method according to the invention.

Claims (13)

1. Applicator (10) for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, comprising a twisted core (12) and fibres which extend from the core (12) while being held by said core (12), said core (12) having a distal end (16) and a proximal end (14), said fibres forming an envelope (E) with their free end, characterised by the fact that said envelope (E) has curved faces (F1-F4) having at least one slope, or inclination, from said distal end (16) to said proximal end (14), said slope or inclination changing direction from one face (F1, F3) to the other (F2, F4) so that said envelope (E) has hollows alternating with reliefs around said core (12).
2. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said faces (F1-F4) are delimited by disjointed lateral edges.
3. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the direction of said slope, or inclination, alternately reverses around said core (12), from one face (F1, F3) to the other (F2, F4).
4. Applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the envelope (E) comprises a pair of curved faces (F2, F4) substantially convex from the distal end (16) to the proximal end (14) of the core, and a pair of curved faces (F1, F3) substantially concave from the distal end (16) to the proximal end (14) of the core (12).
5. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the core (12) has a level situated between its distal (16) and proximal (14) ends, known as the intermediate level, in particular substantially equidistant from said distal (16) and proximal (14) ends, the envelope (E) comprising a pair of curved faces (F1, F3) which have a concave corrugation from the distal end (16) to said intermediate level and a convex corrugation from said intermediate level to the proximal end (14), and a pair of curved faces (F2, F4) which have a convex corrugation from the distal end (16) to said intermediate level and a concave corrugation from said intermediate level to the proximal end (14).
6. Applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein each of the curved faces (F1-F4) is generated by a straight line, known as the generating line, said generating line being orthogonal to the core (12) and orthogonal to a plane of symmetry of said face (F1-F4).
7. Applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the envelope (E) has a cross-section in a plane substantially orthogonal to the core (12), the shape of which is a polygon, all along said core (12), from said distal end (16) to said proximal end (14).
8. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said shape is a quadrilateral.
9. Applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said envelope (E) has chamfers (20) at the level of all or part of its faces (F1-F4), to the distal end (16) of said core (12).
10. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said envelope (E) comprises at least two opposite faces (F1, F3) with chamfers (20) symmetrical to said core (12).
11. Applicator (10) according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said envelope (E) is a helical envelope.
12. Method for manufacturing an applicator (10) for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, said method comprising:

    - a step of positioning a plurality of fibres between longitudinal portions of a pin, then

    - a first step of twisting said pin to form a twisted pin having fibres extending radially around it, the ends of said fibres forming a cylindrical envelope extending in a longitudinal extension direction around said pin, then

    - a step of cutting the fibres, so that said fibres form an envelope (E) with their free end, said envelope (E) having curved faces (F1-F4) having at least one slope, or inclination, from said distal end (16) to said proximal end (14), said slope or inclination changing direction from one face (F1, F3) to the other (F2, F4) so that said envelope (E) has hollows alternating with reliefs around said core (12)
13. Receptacle for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, containing an applicator (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 11.

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