EP2882405A2

EP2882405A2 - Haircare compositions with selected surfactants and selected complexes of acidic protein hydrolysates and basic fatty acid amidoamines

Info

Publication number: EP2882405A2
Application number: EP13735323.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Jörg KAHRE
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2012-08-09
Filing date: 2013-07-12
Publication date: 2015-06-17
Also published as: US20150174038A1; WO2014023510A3; WO2014023510A2; DE102012214150A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions comprising selected protein hydrolysates and selected complexes of acidic protein hydrolysates and basic fatty acid amidoamines.

Description

Hair care compositions containing selected surfactants and selected complexes of acidic protein hydrolysates and basic fatty acid amidoamines

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing selected surfactants and selected complexes of acidic protein hydrolysates and basic fatty acid amidoamines. There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided which can ideally also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents and surface-active agents.

Environmental influences and oxidative hair treatments often lead to impaired combability of dry and wet hair. Furthermore, the gloss and the moisture balance are adversely affected by the attacked outer structure of the keratinic fibers. Another consequence of repeated treatments of keratinic fibers with surface-active and / or oxidative agents is a strong re-greasing of the keratinic fibers and a strong tendency to increased scaling of the scalp.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the side effects of environmental influences and oxidative and surfactant hair treatments already preferably during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment but also after the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative or surfactant cosmetic, in particular Color intensity, color fastness, whitening performance or corrugating effect, as well as to prevent the greasing of the keratinic fibers and the increased formation of scalp scales. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.

It has now surprisingly been found that the object is achieved to a great extent by a hair treatment composition which contains an active substance complex containing as essential ingredients at least one selected surfactide and at least one selected complex of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamines.

Hair treatment compositions comprising this active ingredient complex lead to the improvement of the finishing, to improve the gloss, to improve the moisture balance and to protect against oxidative damage and preventing the re-greasing of the keratinic fibers and to increase the wash resistance of dyed keratinic fibers, especially human hair and the time delay of Formation of dandruff. A first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair treatment composition containing in a suitable cosmetic carrier - in each case based on the total composition of the composition - a) at least one selected surfactant in a total amount of 0.05 to 45.0 wt.%, B) at least a selected complex of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%.

When using this combination, there are surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular to improved combing, improved gloss and improved elasticity as well as a significantly increased wash resistance dyed hair, as well as a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations such Water wave and perm.

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. In particular, the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so few seconds to a few hours after Application again rinsed products, understood by the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing. In addition, they have improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.

For the purposes of the invention, "wash fastness" refers to the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention comprising the active substance complex according to the invention are distinguished by a significantly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the active substance complex according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers. The protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from the effects of heat is of great importance, in particular when using straighteners or hair dryers. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n -Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. Particularly preferred is water.

The first ingredient a) according to the invention is a surfactant. In principle, both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances are suitable as surfactants. The choice of surfactants depends on the type of agent.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are:

linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula R-0- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ 0) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and

1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and salts thereof,

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n one integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri or tetraammonium ions having C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,

sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers of the formula R - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n-OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ² for one R ^{1 is} hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the Alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n represent a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of those contained in R and R ³ C atoms is 2 to 44,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² ,

in the R preferred for an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or Alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M

in the RCO-- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers of 0 5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, Zinc, or ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X,

in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride ether sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- Amidethercarbonsäuren, R -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20 and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl and M is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,

Acyl lactylates and

Hydroxymischethersulfate.

If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferable that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether groups with no restricted homolog distribution can be obtained, for example on the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether groups 4 to 12 and Zn or Mg ions are selected as counterion. An example of this is the

Commercial product Texapon.RTM ^® ASV.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) are for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,

with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis),

alkoxylated triglycerides,

alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1)

R CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (Tnio-1)

in which R is CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is} linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 .

Amine oxides,

- Hydroxymischether, R 0 [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 0] _x (CH ₂ CHR ² 0) _y [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ ] _z with R standing for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x is is 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y is a number from 1 to 30 and z is the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates, Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,

Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,

Mixed ethers or mixed formals and polysorbates.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1-1) can additionally be used.

R1

U

R4-N-R2

I

R3

(Tkatl)

In the formula (Tkatl), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

The surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.05 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the total composition used according to the invention.

The second compelling component of the drug complex is an ionic complex consisting of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine. In the present invention, an acidic protein hydrolyzate is preferably understood to mean a vegetable protein hydrolyzate. Of course, the protein hydrolyzate moiety can be from any protein source. Preference is given to vegetable protein hydrolysates such as soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates are also included according to the invention. However, it is essential for the present invention that the proportion of acidic amino acids in the hydrolyzate is at least 10% by weight, preferably 20% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight and most preferably 40% by weight. Protein hydrolysates which fulfill this condition form the ionic complexes according to the invention from an acidic Protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine of the present invention. Protein hydrolysates based on elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk proteins are also possible according to the invention, although not preferred.

Suitable fatty acid amidoamines are any fatty acid amidoamine having a chain length of 8 to 40 carbon atoms in the chain. The fatty acid amidoamines can be saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched. The fatty acid amidoamines according to the invention preferably fulfill the following structure:

R1-NR2 _(CH2) _m -NR3R4R5,

in which R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8 to 40 carbon atoms in the chain, R 2 is a C 1 to C 4 alkyl radical or hydrogen, R 3, R 4 and R 5 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical or a C2 to C4 alkyl radical, n is an integer selected from 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. With particular preference R2 means a methyl or ethyl radical, n = 2 and R3 = R4 = methyl or ethyl and R5 is Hydrogen. R 1 preferably represents one of the radicals caprinoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl, linoloyl, arachinoyl, cetyloyl, behenoyl, eicosanoyl and / or 18-methyl eicosanoyl.

In the structure presented above, no anion is shown. This anion is formed by an acidic group of the protein hydrolyzate. Since the acidic protein hydrolysates according to the invention can have a plurality of acidic groups, a number of the structures of the fatty acid amidoamines shown above are also ionically bound to the acidic groups.

The carboxy terminal end of the acidic protein hydrolysates forms an ionic complex with the cationic or cationizable C8 to C40 fatty acid amidoamine. Examples of such compounds are under the INCI name Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Protein on the basis of wheat or rice commercially under the names Vegetamid® 18MEA R (Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Rice) and Vegetamid® 18MEA G (Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Wheat) of the Company Seiwa Kasei available.

The ionic complexes according to the invention of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a fatty acid amidoamine are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight with respect to the entire composition.

It is preferred according to the invention if the compositions according to the invention also contain at least one quaternary compound. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is thereby further increased and the stability of the composition is considerably promoted.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From this variety of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have as are particularly suitable and are taken in each case in an amount of 0.1 to 10.0 wt.% Used. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.

Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1-2) form the first group. R2

l ₊

R1 N-X-R4

I

R3

(Tkat1-2)

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

- the rest (- X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Where X stands for:

1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples of -X- are: -CHOH, -CHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CHOH, -COHCHOH, -CHOHCOH, -CHCHOHCH ₃ , -CH ₂ COHCH ₃ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -, -C (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CHOH, -CH ₂ COHCH ₃ and hydroxybutyl radicals, where the bond of -X- to R 4 is based on the free valence of the relevant carbon atom and R 4 is:

1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or 2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as Maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^®, ^® and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® L80, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

Each of them is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91 are available. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

R1 - NH - (CH ₂₎ _n - N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3)

wherein R1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

1) hydrogen or

2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is an anion as previously described and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) represent a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

The aforementioned cationic surfactants may be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 3.0 wt.%, Based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.

Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.

The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary

Vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective components of the active ingredient complex according to the invention:

Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CRCOO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^" ,

in which R = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C1-4-

Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ion. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

A highly preferred amphoteric polymer according to the invention is a copolymer which is composed as follows: 0.1 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (I) in which the above-mentioned definitions for the radicals R, R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and the indices n, m and the groups Z, A, B, X apply, and monomers from the group acrylic acid , Methacrylic acid, alpha-ethacrylic acid, beta, beta-dimethylacrylic acid, methylenemalonic acid, vinylacetic acid, allylacetic acid, ethylidynetic acid, propylidynetic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, N-methacryloylalanine, N-acryloylhydroxyglycine, sulfopropylacrylate, sulfoethylacrylate, sulfoethylmethacrylate, sulfoethylmethacrylate , Styrenesulfonic acid, vinylsulfonic acid, vinylphosphonic acid, phosphoethyl acrylate, phosphonoethyl acrylate, phosphopropyl acrylate, phosphonopropyl acrylate, phosphoethyl methacrylate, phosphonoethyl methacrylate, phosphopropyl methacrylate and phosphonopropyl methacrylate and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids, and optionally nonionic monomers from the group consisting of acrylamide, vinyl alcohol, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl esters of Acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular ethylene glycol and propylene glycol acrylate and methacrylate, polyalkoxylated esters of acrylic acid and / or of methacrylic acid, in particular the polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol esters, esters of acrylic acid and or of methacrylic acid with polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol mono (Ci-C25) alkyl ethers, vinyl acetate, vinyl pyrrolidone and methyl vinyl ether, wherein the monomers A2 and A3 together from 50 to 99.9% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer turn off.

In the formula (I) for the monomer (A), R is preferably a methyl group, and also R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are methyl groups. The group Z is preferably an -NH group, the index n is particularly preferably the number 3.

Depending on the choice of the groups A and B and the index m, various monomers of the formula (I) may be preferred. A preferred monomer which satisfies the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph also has, as group B, a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, and the subscript m is the number 0. Polymers preferred according to the invention are composed of monomers A1)

A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia) in the

X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

and the monomers A2) from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 is 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer.

A further preferred monomer, which corresponds to the criteria mentioned in the preceding paragraph, has, as group B, furthermore a -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ group, as group A a - (CH ₂ ) 2- or a - ( CH ₂ ) 3- or a - (CH ₂ ) 4 group, and the subscript m is the number 1. In these polymers containing such monomers, at least one copolymer A is selected from:

A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ib)

(Ib) in the

p is 2, 3 or 4,

X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and

Ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;

contain.

Particularly preferred monomers A2 are acrylic acid or its salts (also mixed, i.e. partially neutralized acrylic acids) and acrylamide. A preferred copolymer A is a copolymer of the monomer (Ia), sodium acrylate and acrylamide, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) being preferred:

Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to 50% Sodium acrylate: 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70%

Acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30%

Preferably, a preferred copolymer A contains the following number of the respective monomers:

Monomer (Ia): Values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, more preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000

Sodium acrylate: Values from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from

10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800

Acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred

In summary, amphopolymers according to the invention are particularly preferred if they contain at least one copolymer A of the general formula (Ic)

(Ic)

contain, in which applies:

x + y + z = Q

Q is from 3 to 55,000, preferably from 10 to 25,000, particularly preferably from 50 to 15,000, more preferably from 100 to 10,000, even more preferably from 500 to 8000 and in particular from 1000 to 5000,

x stands for (0 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0 to 0.3) Q and in particular for the values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, wherein the value 0 is preferred,

y stands for (0.1 to 0.95) Q, preferably for (0.5 to 0.7) Q and in particular for values of 1 to 24000, preferably of 5 to 15000, particularly preferably of 10 to 10000 and in particular of 100 to 4800,

z stands for (0.001 to 0.5) Q, preferably for (0, 1 to 0.5) Q and in particular for values from 1 to 12500, preferably from 2 to 8000, particularly preferably from 3 to 4000 and in particular from 5 to 2000. In addition to the abovementioned copolymer or in its place, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise a copolymer which consists of monomers of the formula (Ia) Maleic or fumaric acid (or their disodium salts) and acrylamide is constructed. In this case, the following distribution (in% of the total monomers contained in the polymer) is preferred:

Monomer (Ia): 0.1 to 50%, preferably 10 to

50%

Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): 10 to 95%, preferably for 50 to 70%

Acrylamide: 0 to 50%, preferably 0 to 30

%

Maleic acid or fumaric acid (or their disodium salt): values of from 1 to 24,000, preferably from 5 to 15,000, more preferably from 10 to 10,000 and in particular from 100 to 4800

Acrylamide: Values 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, where the

Value 0 is preferred

A most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R _a R _b R _c A ^"

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene; R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is;

A ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Other cationic celluloses are, 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24) under the names Polymer JR ^®. Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution. Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI - designation Polyquaternium-7,

Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,

quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI - name Polyquaternium-1 1,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^(_) (monol)

in which R and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{<_) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups. Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used, in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^<_) a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer

(Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)

(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

in which R ⁰ and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₈ ) alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The abovementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

Furthermore, it is highly preferred according to the invention if at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant is present in the compositions according to the invention. These compounds may contribute significantly to the stability of the cosmetic compositions.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl Dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d ₂ -C ₈ -acylsarcosine. A particularly preferred compound is Coco Betaine.

These ingredients are used in amounts of from 0.01% to 8.0% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition. Amounts of from 0.05 to 7.0% by weight are preferred. Particularly preferred are amounts of 0, 1 to 6.0 wt.%, Most preferably from 0.3 to 3.0 wt.%.

For this highly preferred backbone of ingredients, all ingredients customary in cosmetic compositions can furthermore be added.

In addition to the compulsory silicones described above, the compositions according to the invention may contain further silicones. These optional silicones are preferably at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si l):

(SiR ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) χ - (Si ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):

(Sil .1) The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x-0-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Sil. 2),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-1):

(SiOHR ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOHR ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C Assistance of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cPs. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b SiO (4- _a - _b ) / 2) x (R _c SiO (4- _c ) / 2) _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms,

Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ,

wherein

R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;

a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,

b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,

a + b is less than or equal to 3, and

c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and

x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and

y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about

10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and

M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable for the purposes of the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] n [O-Si (CH ₃ )] _m - OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-3a),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n1 [Si (R ') - 0] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] _n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-3b),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

contain, in which

R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C 1 -C ₂₀ ) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH, a (Ci to C ₂₀ ) -alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ -group and

m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably being values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of

1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR ² R ³ N ⁺ - A - SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ⁰⁾ _n - O - SiR R ¹² - A - N ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^" (Si 3c)

where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,

the radicals R 7 to R 12, independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic compound group,

n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^"is an anion.

The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) 3-0-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^" may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of general formula RSO ₃ ^" , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)

[RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) _n -SiMe ₂ -A-N ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2 CH ₃ COO ^" (Si ₃ d),

where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - O - CH ₂ - CH (OH) - CH ₂ -,

R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among

INCI name Quaternium-80 known. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th

Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone included.

Additional cationic aminosilicones having at least three terminal amino-functional groups have only recently been commercialized. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and optionally a polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are in particular the compounds with the INCI designations: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12 , Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ^® Quat T-60th

The cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 2.5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.

Another amino-functional silicone of the present invention are polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt.% Each used in relation to the total composition.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R _{3 is} -Si- [O-SiR 2] x- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci _-20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x or y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones according to the invention, water-soluble silicones may be present in the compositions according to the invention.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

Ester oils may be present with particular preference as an oil body in the combination of active substances according to the invention. The ester oils are defined as follows:

Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, Capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprinatV caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ^® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).

Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,

X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,

R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties as radical R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, Elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol, as well as symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The ester oils are present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt.% Used. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time.

Further oil bodies according to the invention are:

vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether , Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

As natural oils, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, curry seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or Wild rose oil used.

Of course, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions. The selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment compositions. In the case of a shampoo, for example, further surface-active substances will be contained. In the case of hair treatments, further cationic compounds and other care substances may be present. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂ 2-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂ 2-alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees of oligomerization of from 1, 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),

Phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. By fatty substances (fat) are meant fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes which are both solid and liquid in aqueous Dispersion, and to understand natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ -and very particularly preferably d ₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (fatwax) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, Ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0, 1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0, 1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0, 1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Protein hydrolysates are according to the invention degradation products of proteins which are produced by acidic, basic or enzymatic reaction. Due to the manufacturing process, protein hydrolysates have a distribution of molecular weight. The protein hydrolysates according to the invention also include oligopeptides, since these can likewise be prepared by corresponding reactions from proteins. Individual amino acids, which are present as a discrete single compound, according to the invention do not belong to the protein hydrolysates in the sense of this invention. Furthermore, the protein hydrolysates according to the invention are different from the protein hydrolysates, which are part of the ionic complex of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) ProSina ^® (Croda) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms , for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates, may originate. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention are under the INCI - names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) mentioned and commercially available products.

Likewise protein hydrolysates according to the invention are oligopeptides. Oligopeptides may be preferred in the hair treatment compositions of the invention because of their defined amino acid sequence. An oligopeptide which has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated, may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthesized hydrogen atom of the amino group as well as the bracketed hydroxy group of the acid function means that the respective groups may be present as such (then it is an oligopeptide with the relevant number of amino acids as in the above formula or but that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide comprising even more amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula are represented by the additional amino acid residue (s) replaced.

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids. In hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids. Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents of the invention may vary. Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da. As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, it is preferred to use oligopeptides which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids but have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention. A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, the preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile

Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention in which the oligopeptide contained in them is at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile are particularly preferred

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, preferably isoleucine is bound

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Hair-treatment agents which are further preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val

wherein the amino acid

Groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated. Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the valine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

Particularly preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, based on keratin, silk, wheat, moringa and marine protein hydrolysates. Most preferred are protein hydrolysates based on silk, keratin and wheat.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of from 0.05% by weight to 5% % By weight.

In addition to the protein hydrolysates according to the invention, it is also possible to use amino acids in the compositions according to the invention. In the present application, the term amino acid is also understood as meaning a structure which contains only one permanent cationic group in the molecule, such as, for example, choline. Furthermore, this term also means substances such as carnitine or taurine, since they occur naturally as the amino acids in biological systems and in many cases behave like amino acids.

Amino acids of the invention are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine , Valine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Ν, Ν, Ν-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), ergothioneine (thionein, 2-mercapto-N, Na, Na-trimethyl-L) histidinium betaine), carnitine, taurine and choline, and mixtures thereof. All types of isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.

With particular preference are alanine, arginine, asparagine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, ornithine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, carnitine, taurine, choline and their mixtures used.

Arginine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine, betaine, carnitine, taurine and mixtures thereof are very particularly preferably used.

Arginine, glutamine, histidine, lysine, carnitine and taurine and mixtures thereof are most preferably used. Arginine, glutamine, carnitine and taurine as well as the mixtures of arginine and taurine are most preferred,

Glutamine and taurine,

Glutamine and carnitine,

Arginine and glutamine,

Carnitine and taurine, as well as the mixtures

Arginine, carnitine and taurine,

Glutamine, carnitine and taurine.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain the amino acids as described above in a total amount - based on the total agent - in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 7.0% by weight, most preferably from 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%. If mixtures of at least two amino acids are used, then the same amounts apply as previously mentioned. In the case of mixtures, the individual amino acids are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5. The ratio is based on the weight ratio of the amino acids. When a mixture of three amino acids is used, these are each used in equal parts by weight.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:

Vitamin B-ι (thiamine)

Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The said compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B ₃ , B ₅ and B ₆ , are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purethiol, Thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin B series, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance. Optionally, even otherwise customary preservatives can be dispensed with. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial oats, honey grasses, quaking grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and echinacea, especially echinacea purpurea (L.) moench, all types of wine as well as perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Occasionally it may be necessary to use anionic polymers. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^® 1 1-80 is.

Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

shellac Polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as those marketed for example under the name Luviskol (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-Benzylidene camphor, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and

Octyl.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,

Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, C0 ₂ and air,

antioxidants

Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Another subject of the invention is therefore a method for hair treatment, in which a hair treatment composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.

The exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. According to the invention, "remaining on the hair" means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.

Finally, according to the invention, the use of a composition as described above for reducing and / or delaying dandruff of the scalp.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods

Care spray, also in foam form and / or as hair cure applicable: K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 K8 K9 K10 K11

Polymer JR 400 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Armocare VGH 70 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Stearamidopropyl 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dimethylamine

PVP / VA Copolymer 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 60/40

CDHP ^* 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Arginine 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.1 - - -

Glutamine - 0.1 - - - 0.1 - - - - -

Carnitine - - 0.1 - - 0.1 0.1 - - 0.1

Taurine - - - 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 -

Histidine - - - - - - - - 0.1 - 0.1

Lysine - - - - - - - - - 0.1 -

Panthenol 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2

Cetrimonium Chloride 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0

Ceteareth-25 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3

ProSina 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2

Dow Corning 193 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

Sicone Quaternium-22 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Coco Betaine 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

Water, preservation ad ad ad ad ad ad ad ad and possibly perfume oils 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

^* Cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein

The pH of all formulations has been discontinued

For application as a foam the recipe in question is either filled with a propellant in an aerosol container or discharged from a pump bottle with a corresponding pump attachment, such as Airfoamer as foam.

For use as a hair conditioner or cream, fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol and / or ethylene glycol distearate and / or glycerol monostearate are added to the abovementioned formulations in amounts of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight. Shampoo:

^* Cetearamidoethyl diethonium hydrolyzed protein

The pH of all formulations was adjusted to 4.5 to 5.8.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic carrier - in each case based on the total weight of the composition - a) at least one selected surfactant in a total amount of 0.05 to 45.0 wt.%, B) at least one selected complex of an acidic Protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine in a total amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that further at least one quaternary ammonium compound in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10.0 wt.% Based on the weight of the total composition selected from one of the groups

i) the esterquats and / or

ii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2),

in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of

8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or the amines and / or cationized amines and / or

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or;

quaternized cellulose derivatives, especially Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24,

Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or

cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

cationized honey and / or

cationic guar derivatives and / or

Chitosan and / or

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular polyquaternium-7 and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular polyquaternium-1 1 and / or

Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular

Polyquaternium-16 and / or

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or

Polyquaternium-74

e mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the selected complex of an acidic protein hydrolyzate and a basic fatty acid amidoamine is selected from the Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed proteins.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound is selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine and / or distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dicocoyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and / or dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chlorides and / or quaternium-27 and / or quaternium -91 and / or behenoyl PG -trimonium chlorides.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the cationic condensation product of a fatty acid amide and a protein hydrolyzate Cetearamidoethyl Diethonium Hydrolyzed Wheat is.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that as further cationic surfactant Behentrimoniumchloride and / or cetyltrimethylammonium chloride is used.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that further at least one zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant is contained.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactant is selected from Cocamidopropylbetain and / or Coco betaines.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that additionally at least one active ingredient selected from the group consisting of coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a purine and its derivatives, especially caffeine, or their physiologically acceptable salts , as well as a vitamin of the B series, in particular panthenol.

10. A process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes again.