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EP2796065B1 - Invisible set decoration element - Google Patents

Invisible set decoration element Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2796065B1
EP2796065B1 EP13165602.7A EP13165602A EP2796065B1 EP 2796065 B1 EP2796065 B1 EP 2796065B1 EP 13165602 A EP13165602 A EP 13165602A EP 2796065 B1 EP2796065 B1 EP 2796065B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stones
piece
single base
crown
amorphous
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP13165602.7A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP2796065A1 (en
Inventor
Stéphane Lauper
Gregory Kissling
Yves Winkler
Alban Dubach
Stewes Bourban
Lionel BLASER
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Omega SA
Original Assignee
Omega SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Omega SA filed Critical Omega SA
Priority to EP13165602.7A priority Critical patent/EP2796065B1/en
Priority to US14/132,129 priority patent/US10588386B2/en
Priority to CN201310757205.XA priority patent/CN103876406A/en
Priority to KR1020130160370A priority patent/KR101585463B1/en
Priority to JP2013263426A priority patent/JP6008834B2/en
Priority to RU2013156819A priority patent/RU2653992C2/en
Priority to CN201710657647.5A priority patent/CN107259725A/en
Priority to CN201810337850.9A priority patent/CN108402614A/en
Priority to CN201811180687.6A priority patent/CN109275997A/en
Publication of EP2796065A1 publication Critical patent/EP2796065A1/en
Priority to HK14111861A priority patent/HK1198354A1/en
Priority to KR1020150125543A priority patent/KR20150108805A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP2796065B1 publication Critical patent/EP2796065B1/en
Priority to KR1020160135622A priority patent/KR102028241B1/en
Priority to HK18104069.8A priority patent/HK1244642A1/en
Priority to HK19101735.7A priority patent/HK1259594A1/en
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/005—Gems provided with grooves or notches, e.g. for setting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/046—Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece including a jewelery or jewelery item forming a paved stone suitable for decorating a surface.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the aforementioned drawbacks proposing an industrial manufacturing process for obtaining a homogeneous assembly of the stones, a diversity of shape, an improved accuracy, a fixation of better quality at lower cost and a less restrictive aesthetic quality in terms of gemological regulations.
  • the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising several stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to each other.
  • the fastening device comprises a single base of a first material for attaching all the stones to each other by one of their faces, the stone layers are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked, characterized in that the first material is an at least partially amorphous alloy.
  • the single base makes it possible to attach all the stones to each other by their breech.
  • the single base covers all the yokes of said stones.
  • the single base leaves uncovered part of the yokes of said stones.
  • the single base makes it possible to attach all the stones to each other by their crown.
  • the single base covers all the crowns of said stones.
  • the single base leaves uncovered part of the crowns of said stones.
  • the single base makes it possible to attach several stones so that certain stones are fixed by their breech and that certain stones are fixed by their crown.
  • the single base covers all the breeches of certain stones and all the crowns of certain other stones.
  • the single base leaves uncovered part of the heads of some stones and not covered part of the crowns of certain other stones.
  • the fixing device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their yoke so that the single base, of at least partially corresponding shape to each yoke, forms at least one hook. for each of said at least one of the stones.
  • the fixing device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their crown so that the single base, of shape at least partially corresponding to each ring, forms at least one hook. for each of said at least one of the stones.
  • said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the yoke.
  • said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the ring.
  • the first material is a totally amorphous metallic material.
  • the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
  • the first material is an amorphous alloy having a glass transition temperature equal to or lower than 450 ° C.
  • the invention also relates to a timepiece characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece according to the invention.
  • the invention also relates to an article of jewelry or jewelry characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece according to the invention.
  • the first face is the table of the stone, the second face being the breech of the stone.
  • the first face is the breech of the stone, the second face being the table of the stone.
  • the first face is the breech of the stone or the table of the stone, the second face being the table of the stone or the breech of the stone.
  • the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by hot forming.
  • the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by casting or injection.
  • the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by densification of powder.
  • said first material is totally amorphous.
  • the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
  • the first material is in an amorphous alloy having a Tg equal to or less than 450 ° C.
  • the method further comprises a final step of crystallizing the first material.
  • said first material is a metal alloy capable of becoming amorphous at a cooling rate of less than 100'000 ° C / sec.
  • the invention relates to generally annotated decoration pieces 1, 3 and 5 which can be reported, in particular, on jewelery or jewelery articles and timepieces (especially at the level of the dial and the dressing).
  • these decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 can not be limited to the above applications.
  • the decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 could also be reported on other objects such as, for example, glasses.
  • the invention relates to an attachment device 7, 7 'of the invisible crimped type making it possible to attach several precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones 2 by one of their faces such as their yoke 4 and / or their crown. so that the layers 6 of the stones 2 (also called rondistes) are mounted edge to edge so that the tables 8 of the stones 2 are substantially parallel or coplanar.
  • the fixing device 7, 7 ' comprises a single base 9, 9' attaching the stones 2 to each other very precisely.
  • the material of the base 9, 9 ' is made and not removed and then deformed as and when.
  • the single base 9, 9 'thus perfectly covers the cylinder heads 4 of the stones 2 with a minimum of mechanical stresses transmitted to the stones.
  • the stones 2 are attached by their crown, that is to say that the single base 9, 9 'perfectly covers the crowns of the stones 2.
  • the device of fixing 7, 7 'invisible crimped type allows to attach several stones 2 so that some stones are fixed to the single base 9, 9' by their cylinder head 4 and some stones are fixed to the single base 9, 9 'by their crown. This alternation of fixation by crown or cylinder head can be random.
  • the fixing device 7, 7 ' has a single base 9, 9' connecting the stones 2 relative to each other by their cylinder head 4.
  • the base 9, 9 ' is natively corresponding in shape to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 whatever the dispersions thereof. This is made possible by the use of a manufacturing method according to the invention which will be explained hereinafter and which comprises in particular a material recovery step.
  • the fixing device 7 comprises a single base 9 covering all of the yokes 4 of the stones 2. This first embodiment generates a very homogeneous aesthetic of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.
  • the fastening device 7 ' has a single base that does not cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
  • the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2.
  • This second embodiment makes it possible to improve the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the decoration part 1, 3, 5. It also allows not having to open the single base mechanically, for example, using a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones.
  • the decorative piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed, even in more or less complex shapes, such as, for example, a waveform 3 illustrated in FIG. figure 11 , a form 5 without particular symmetry illustrated in the figure 12 or a completely symmetrical form 1 illustrated in FIG. figure 10 , can, therefore, be easily reported on a final product through its single base 9, 9 '.
  • each of the yokes 4 of the stones 2 comprises at least one groove 10. Because the base 9, 9' corresponds perfectly to the shape of the the yoke 4 of the stones 2, it is understood that the base 9, 9 'then forms hooks which hold each stone 2 more firmly by its breech 4.
  • each stone 2 has two grooves 10 on two opposite facets of its breech 4.
  • each groove may also form a peripheral groove on each breech 4 in order to maximize the mechanical fastening force of the fastening device 7, 7 '.
  • said at least one groove 10 is located on said ring.
  • the applied material is an amorphous or partially amorphous material.
  • This material is preferably a metal alloy.
  • the partially amorphous term indicates that for a block of material, the percentage of material amount of said block having the amorphous state is sufficient for the block itself to have the characteristics specific to amorphous metals and metal alloys.
  • the amorphous materials have the advantage of being easily shaped above their glass transition temperature Tg. They also have the advantage of having very little dimensional shrinkage during their solidification, because of the absence of crystallization. Similarly, it may be possible to use a precious metal or one of these alloys to give a noble character to said decorative piece. Thus, the precious metal or one of these alloys is included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
  • the method consists in providing stones 2 whose laminates 6 allow their assembly edge to edge so as, for example, to obtain the variants of embodiments of figures 10 , 11 and 12 , that is to say, a homogeneous plan of stones 2.
  • each stone 2 is secured by a first face on the face 15 of the support 12 by gluing its table 8 by means of an epoxy-resistant glue used at the time of the application of the metal.
  • an epoxy-resistant glue used at the time of the application of the metal.
  • the support 12 comprises recesses made so that the table 8 of each stone 2 is inserted therein. The stones 2 are then all placed in a recess which limits the freedom of movement of said stones 2.
  • the figures 3 and 4 represent a focused magnification on the laminates 6 of the stones 2 according to two alternatives of the invention explained above. It is thus immediately understood that the size accuracy of the 6 or rondist layers of the stones 2 is of great importance. Indeed, according to the invention, the laminates 6 must be mounted edge to edge in order to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2. These laminates mounted edge to edge form semblants of recesses 4.
  • the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
  • the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 .
  • the chemical interactions between the materials ensure the fixing of the stones.
  • an intermediate step between the first step and the second securing step is necessary.
  • the intermediate step is intended to engrave at least one groove 10 in at least a portion of the yokes 4 of the stones 2.
  • the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as shown in FIGS. Figures 1 and 5 .
  • the grooves 10 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.
  • the support 12 may also include a template 14 of dedicated shape to help start the stone plane 2.
  • This template 14 can thus form a square like the figure 1 to form a symmetrical decoration piece 1 or a curved body to form a decoration piece 3 in wave.
  • the support 12 and the template 14 form a single piece.
  • the template is composed of several elements forming a frame 16 arranged to circumscribe the amorphous alloy above said cylinder heads 2 as visible at Figures 6 and 7 .
  • the method 21 continues with a step intended to form the single base 9, 9 'on a second face of the stones 2.
  • One of the methods for depositing the constituent material of the base 9, 9 ' is to use the hot forming.
  • This preform 6a may be made by various techniques such as, for example, injection into a form mold, hot forming above Tg, stamping of the strip, or by machining. Once this preform made, it is placed above the stones 2 and can be supported on the template 14 or the frame 16 as visible in the figure 14 .
  • the assembly is then heated to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg, thus allowing a decrease in the viscosity of the preform, and then a pressure is exerted. Once these conditions are met, the pressure exerted on the viscous preform allows the amorphous viscous alloy to cover the entire surface of the stones 2 and thus to fill the recesses 6a formed by the laminated edges with edges as visible in FIG. figure 15 . Then, when the recesses 6a are filled, the assembly is cooled in order to maintain the amorphous state of the alloy.
  • This type of material is well suited because the sharp decrease in their viscosity when heated above their Tg results in the reduction of the stress to be applied to ensure the filling of the recesses 6a with the amorphous metal alloy. Therefore, the stones are not likely to break although a pressing operation is performed. On the other hand, this reduction in viscosity allows the amorphous metal alloy to be inserted in each relief of this assembly of stones 2 and thus to take all the contours.
  • Another advantage of this embodiment is that it can be carried out at relatively low temperatures, which makes it possible to avoid the degradation of stones as well as to reduce the risk of stones breaking due to thermal shocks.
  • amorphous metal alloys having glass transition temperatures Tg between 100 and 450 ° C may be preferentially used.
  • This method consists of heating a metal preform above its melting point and pouring or injecting the liquid thus obtained onto the stones 2.
  • the frame 16 has a height at least equal to that 2. It then forms a space 17 which will be filled with molten alloy. Once the space 17 has been filled, a cooling step up to a temperature below Tg is carried out in order to avoid the crystallization of the alloy to finally obtain a hollow 6a filled with amorphous or partially amorphous metal alloy.
  • amorphous metal alloys allow this embodiment for two main reasons.
  • the melting temperatures of the amorphous metals are, for a given family of alloys, much lower than those of the crystalline metals.
  • crystalline platinum alloys have a melting point in the range of 1600-1700 ° C while amorphous platinum alloys of PtCuNiP composition have a melting point of about 600 ° C. This therefore makes it possible to simplify considerably the tools used and especially to preserve the integrity of the stones and in particular the diamonds which decompose around 600-800 ° C in the air.
  • the powder densification process consists of introducing a metal powder, having the capacity to become amorphous at cooling rates of less than or equal to 100,000 ° C / sec, in the space 17 formed by the support 2 and the frame 16. and to consolidate it by a supply of energy such as an oven, a laser beam, an ion beam or any other thermal means.
  • the amount of the first material can be calculated to form only one layer whose thickness is less than that of the stones 2 or less than half the height of the stones 2 as visible to the figure 7 .
  • This layer can follow the shape of stones 2.
  • a stencil element is used.
  • This stencil element is in the form of a plate comprising orifices in the form of the mesh which follows the This stencil is placed beforehand on the stones 2 before the hot forming, casting or sintering step takes place.
  • This stencil is preferably made so as to be able to dissolve chemically.
  • the preform is made so as to have the shape of the mesh which follows the laminate 6 of the stones 2. It is then sufficient to place this preform on the stones at the level of the sheet 6 stones 2 and to perform the hot forming operation.
  • the casting operation is done by a machine which will pour the molten metal directly at the level of the mesh which follows the layer 6 stones 2.
  • This uncoupling step consists in separating the assembly formed by the stones 2 and the single base 9, 9 'of the support 12 and the template 14 to obtain the decorative part of the figure 16 .
  • This uncoupling step consists in separating the assembly formed by the stones 2 and the single base 9, 9 'of the support 12 and the template 14 to obtain the decorative part of the figure 16 .
  • several solutions can be provided.
  • a first solution is to simply disassemble the support and the template of the assembly formed by the stones 2 and the single base 9, 9 '.
  • a chemical agent can be used to dissolve the glue.
  • a second solution is to dissolve said template and the support 12.
  • the template 14 and the support 12 are made of a material that can dissolve.
  • FIG. 17 to 20 Another embodiment, visible to Figures 17 to 20 , can be used.
  • This embodiment consists in taking advantage of the large elastic deformation of amorphous alloys, typically 2%, unlike crystalline alloys which deform plastically from 0.5%.
  • a first step is to provide a support 120 having a housing 121.
  • a deposit 22 of the first material which is an amorphous or partially amorphous metallic material is deposited as visible to the figure 18 .
  • This deposition 22 of amorphous metallic material can be achieved by the methods of hot forming or casting or injection or powder densification previously described.
  • the next step is to machine this deposit 22 to make holes 23 in which the stones 2 will be crimped as visible in the figure 19 .
  • This figure declines a version with stones set by their breech but one could very well imagine stones set by their crown or a random device with stones set by their crown and their cylinder head.
  • This machining can be done in several ways. On the one hand it can be done by removal of material by laser or drill.
  • This machining can also be performed using the properties of the amorphous metal. Indeed, the latter sees its viscosity decreased when heated to a temperature between its glass transition temperature Tg and its crystallization temperature Tx. A tool having the negative geometry of the hole is applied, with a certain force, on the amorphous metal filling the hollow. It is thus possible to avoid the machining steps that can be difficult depending on the amorphous alloys used.
  • a fixing means 24 is arranged at the side 23a of each hole 23.
  • This fixing means 24 consists of at least one protrusion made of material with the material of the deposit 22.
  • the method of crimping then consists of pressing the stone 2 into the hole.
  • the fixing means are deformed allowing the insertion of said stone.
  • an elastic return is exerted so that the protrusion fits into the groove 10 and allows to permanently maintain it as visible to the figure 20 .
  • the dimensions of the housing 121 are calculated so that the height of the housing is at least equal to that of the stones 2 and that the width and / or the length are at least equal to those of all the stones 2 dont edge to edge.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • General Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Description

Domaine de l'inventionField of the invention

L'invention se rapporte à une pièce de décoration serti invisible et, plus précisément, une pièce de décoration notamment pour un article de joaillerie ou de bijouterie formant un pavé de pierres apte à décorer une surface.The invention relates to a piece of invisible set decoration and, more specifically, a decorative piece including a jewelery or jewelery item forming a paved stone suitable for decorating a surface.

Arrière plan de l'inventionBackground of the invention

Il est connu de sertir des pierres précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques à l'aide de griffes, de grains ou de rails. Il existe également des sertis du type invisible qui solidarisent les pierres par leur culasse ou par leur couronne. Dans l'état actuel des techniques de serti invisible, il existe de nombreuses méthodes (par fraisage, coulée, clipsage, vissage, etc.) qui selon des systèmes bien définis présentent de multiples inconvénients : les natures, géométries et dimensions des pierres sont souvent limitées, les hauteurs, les profondeurs et les angles des gorges sont souvent contraignantes, les rayures, égrisures et fissures de pierres lors des opérations existent, voire même les réparations lors d'un changement de pierre occasionnent des égrisures sur les pierres annexes, etc.. Aussi, la majorité de ces méthodes demandent, durant l'opération de sertissage, l'intervention manuelle d'un sertisseur. Même si ce dernier est hautement qualifié, le risque de perte, de rayure, de fissuration ou d'égrisure des pierres est permanent. Il existe une autre méthode de sertissage invisible par voie galvanique décrit dans le brevet EP 2 327 323 A1 . Cette méthode qui demande la déposition d'une première couche conductrice sur les pierres peut, selon la nature et l'épaisseur de la couche déposée, perturber l'effet esthétique attendu et rendre obligatoire la déclaration de la notion de « coating » sur les pierres, ce qui pour un serti invisible avec des pierres précieuses, rend l'objet final moins noble. Aussi, cette méthode nécessite une bonne connaissance électrochimique.It is known to crimp precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones with claws, grains or rails. There are also crimps of the invisible type which solidarize the stones by their breech or their crown. In the current state of the techniques of invisible seam, there are many methods (by milling, casting, clipping, screwing, etc.) which according to well-defined systems have many disadvantages: the natures, geometries and dimensions of the stones are often limited, the heights, the depths and the angles of the throats are often constraining, the scratches, grits and cracks of stones during the operations exist, even the repairs during a change of stone cause grits on the annexed stones, etc. Also, the majority of these methods require, during the crimping operation, the manual intervention of a crimper. Even if the latter is highly qualified, the risk of loss, scratching, cracking or scratching of the stones is permanent. There is another method of galvanically invisible crimping described in the patent EP 2 327 323 A1 . This method, which requires the deposition of a first conductive layer on the stones, may, depending on the nature and the thickness of the deposited layer, disturb the expected aesthetic effect and make it mandatory to declare the notion of "coating" on stones , which for a set invisible with precious stones, makes the final object less noble. Also, this method requires a good electrochemical knowledge.

Résumé de l'inventionSummary of the invention

Le but de la présente invention est de pallier tout ou partie les inconvénients cités précédemment proposant un procédé de fabrication industriel permettant d'obtenir un montage homogène des pierres, une diversité de forme, une précision améliorée,une fixation de meilleure qualité à moindre coût et une qualité esthétique moins contraignante au niveau des réglementations gemologiques.The object of the present invention is to overcome all or part of the aforementioned drawbacks proposing an industrial manufacturing process for obtaining a homogeneous assembly of the stones, a diversity of shape, an improved accuracy, a fixation of better quality at lower cost and a less restrictive aesthetic quality in terms of gemological regulations.

A cet effet, l'invention concerne une pièce de décoration comportant plusieurs pierres et un dispositif de fixation des pierres l'une par rapport à l'autre. Le dispositif de fixation comporte une base unique en un premier matériau permettant d'attacher toutes pierres les unes par rapport aux autres par l'une de leurs faces, les feuilletis de pierres sont montés bord à bord les uns par rapport aux autres afin que ladite base unique soit masquée, caractérisée en ce que le premier matériau est un alliage au moins partiellement amorphe.For this purpose, the invention relates to a decoration piece comprising several stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to each other. The fastening device comprises a single base of a first material for attaching all the stones to each other by one of their faces, the stone layers are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked, characterized in that the first material is an at least partially amorphous alloy.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique permet d'attacher toutes pierres les unes par rapport aux autres par leur culasse.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base makes it possible to attach all the stones to each other by their breech.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique recouvre la totalité des culasses desdites pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base covers all the yokes of said stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique laisse non recouverte une partie des culasses desdites pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base leaves uncovered part of the yokes of said stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique permet d'attacher toutes pierres les unes par rapport aux autres par leur couronne.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base makes it possible to attach all the stones to each other by their crown.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique recouvre la totalité des couronnes desdites pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base covers all the crowns of said stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique laisse non recouverte une partie des couronnes desdites pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base leaves uncovered part of the crowns of said stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique permet d'attacher plusieurs pierres de sorte que certaines pierres soient fixées par leur culasse et que certaines pierres soient fixées par leur couronne.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base makes it possible to attach several stones so that certain stones are fixed by their breech and that certain stones are fixed by their crown.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique recouvre la totalité des culasses de certaines pierres et la totalité des couronnes de certaines autres pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base covers all the breeches of certain stones and all the crowns of certain other stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la base unique laisse non recouverte une partie des culasses de certaines pierres et non recouverte une partie des couronnes de certaines autres pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the single base leaves uncovered part of the heads of some stones and not covered part of the crowns of certain other stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le dispositif de fixation comporte au moins une gorge réalisée dans au moins une des pierres au niveau de leur culasse afin que la base unique, de forme au moins partiellement correspondante à chaque culasse, forme au moins un crochet pour chacune desdites au moins une des pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the fixing device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their yoke so that the single base, of at least partially corresponding shape to each yoke, forms at least one hook. for each of said at least one of the stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le dispositif de fixation comporte au moins une gorge réalisée dans au moins une des pierres au niveau de leur couronne afin que la base unique, de forme au moins partiellement correspondante à chaque couronne, forme au moins un crochet pour chacune desdites au moins une des pierres.In another advantageous embodiment, the fixing device comprises at least one groove made in at least one of the stones at their crown so that the single base, of shape at least partially corresponding to each ring, forms at least one hook. for each of said at least one of the stones.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une gorge forme deux rainures dans deux faces de la culasse.In another advantageous embodiment, said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the yoke.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, ladite au moins une gorge forme deux rainures dans deux faces de la couronne.In another advantageous embodiment, said at least one groove forms two grooves in two faces of the ring.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau est un matériau métallique totalement amorphe.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material is a totally amorphous metallic material.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau comporte au moins un élément qui est du type précieux, compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium. Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau est un alliage amorphe possédant une température de transition vitreuse égale ou inférieure à 450 °C.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium. In another advantageous embodiment, the first material is an amorphous alloy having a glass transition temperature equal to or lower than 450 ° C.

L'invention concerne également une pièce d'horlogerie caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte, rapportée, au moins une pièce de décoration selon l'invention.The invention also relates to a timepiece characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece according to the invention.

L'invention concerne également un article de joaillerie ou de bijouterie caractérisée en ce qu'il comporte, rapportée, au moins une pièce de décoration conforme à l'invention.The invention also relates to an article of jewelry or jewelry characterized in that it comprises, reported, at least one decoration piece according to the invention.

L'invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication d'une pièce de décoration caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte les étapes suivantes :

  1. a) se munir de plusieurs pierres ;
  2. b) solidariser une première face de chaque pierre contre un support, les feuilletis des pierres étant montés bord à bord les uns par rapport aux autres afin de former un pavé de pierres;
  3. c) recouvrir avec un premier matériau au moins une partie d'une seconde face des pierres afin de former une base unique, ledit premier matériau étant un alliage métallique au moins partiellement amorphe.
  4. d) retirer la pièce de décoration ainsi formée par désolidarisation de chacune desdites premières faces par rapport au support.
The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a decoration part characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
  1. (a) bring several stones;
  2. b) solidariser a first face of each stone against a support, the layers of the stones being mounted edge to edge relative to each other to form a paved stones;
  3. c) covering with a first material at least a portion of a second face of the stones to form a single base, said first material being an at least partially amorphous metal alloy.
  4. d) removing the decoration piece thus formed by detaching each of said first faces relative to the support.

Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux, le procédé comprend, entre l'étape a) et l'étape b), l'étape suivante :

  • e) graver au moins une gorge dans les culasses et/ou les couronnes desdites pierres afin que la base unique réalisée lors de l'étape c) remplisse chacune desdites au moins une gorge en formant un crochet de fixation.
In an advantageous embodiment, the method comprises, between step a) and step b), the following step:
  • e) etching at least one groove in the cylinder heads and / or the crowns of said stones so that the single base made during the step c) filling each of said at least one groove by forming a fixing hook.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le procédé comporte, entre l'étape c) et l'étape d), l'étape suivante :

  • g) former un cadre autour dudit pavé afin de circonscrire le dépôt de l'étape c) au-dessus desdites culasses et/ou des dites couronnes des pierres.
In another advantageous embodiment, the method comprises, between step c) and step d), the following step:
  • g) forming a frame around said block to circumscribe the deposit of step c) above said cylinder heads and / or said stone crowns.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la première face est la table de la pierre, la seconde face étant la culasse de la pierre.In another advantageous embodiment, the first face is the table of the stone, the second face being the breech of the stone.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la première face est la culasse de la pierre, la seconde face étant la table de la pierre .In another advantageous embodiment, the first face is the breech of the stone, the second face being the table of the stone.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, la première face est la culasse de la pierre ou la table de la pierre, la seconde face étant la table de la pierre ou la culasse de la pierre.In another advantageous embodiment, the first face is the breech of the stone or the table of the stone, the second face being the table of the stone or the breech of the stone.

L'invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication d'une pièce de décoration caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte les étapes suivantes :

  1. 1) se munir d'un support pourvu d'un logement ;
  2. 2) recouvrir au moins partiellement le logement avec un premier matériau, ledit premier matériau étant un alliage métallique au moins partiellement amorphe
  3. 3) former dans ledit premier matériau, au moins un trou muni de moyens de fixation;
  4. 4) sertir dans ledit au moins un trou au moins un pierre muni d'au moins une gorge de sorte à provoquer une déformation élastique des moyens de fixation jusqu'à ce qu'un retour élastique s'exerce lorsque les moyens de fixation se trouvent en regard de ladite au moins une gorge;
  5. 5) retirer la pièce de décoration ainsi formée par désolidarisation du premier matériau sertie desdites pierres par rapport au support.
The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a decoration part characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
  1. 1) provide a support with a housing;
  2. 2) at least partially covering the housing with a first material, said first material being an at least partially amorphous metal alloy
  3. 3) forming in said first material, at least one hole provided with fixing means;
  4. 4) crimping in said at least one hole at least one stone provided with at least one groove so as to cause elastic deformation of the fastening means until an elastic return is exerted when the fastening means are opposite said at least one groove;
  5. 5) remove the decoration piece thus formed by separating the first material set with said stones relative to the support.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape de recouvrement c) ou 2) consiste en une application du premier matériau par formage à chaud.In another advantageous embodiment, the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by hot forming.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape de recouvrement c) ou 2) consiste en une application du premier matériau par coulée ou injection.In another advantageous embodiment, the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by casting or injection.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, l'étape de recouvrement c) ou 2) consiste en une application du premier matériau par densification de poudre.In another advantageous embodiment, the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by densification of powder.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, ledit premier matériau est totalement amorphe.In another advantageous embodiment, said first material is totally amorphous.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau comporte au moins un élément qui est du type précieux, compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium.In another advantageous embodiment, the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le premier matériau est dans un alliage amorphe possédant une Tg égale où inférieure à 450 °CIn another advantageous embodiment, the first material is in an amorphous alloy having a Tg equal to or less than 450 ° C.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le procédé comprend en outre une étape finale consistant à cristalliser le premier matériau.In another advantageous embodiment, the method further comprises a final step of crystallizing the first material.

Dans un autre mode de réalisation avantageux, le ledit premier matériau est un alliage métallique apte à devenir amorphe à une vitesse de refroidissement inférieure à 100'000°C/secIn another advantageous embodiment, said first material is a metal alloy capable of becoming amorphous at a cooling rate of less than 100'000 ° C / sec.

Description sommaire des dessinsBrief description of the drawings

D'autres particularités et avantages ressortiront clairement de la description qui en est faite ci-après, à titre indicatif et nullement limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés, dans lesquels :

  • la figure 1 est une représentation en perspective d'une étape de fixation de pierres selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 2 est une représentation en coupe de la fin de l'étape de fixation selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 3 est une représentation partielle agrandie de la figure 2 ;
  • la figure 4 est une représentation de la figure 3 selon une alternative de l'invention ;
  • la figure 5 et 7 sont des représentations similaire à la figure 3 du dépôt de matière selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 6 est une représentation en perspective d'une deuxième étape de dépôt selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 8 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 9 est une représentation en coupe d'une pièce de décoration selon une autre alternative de l'invention ;
  • la figure 10 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon l'invention ;
  • la figure 11 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon une variante de l'invention ;
  • la figure 12 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration selon une autre variante de l'invention ;
  • les figures 13 à 16 sont une représentation d'une possibilité du procédé selon l'invention ;
  • les figures 17 à 20 sont une représentation d'une possibilité du procédé selon un autre mode de réalisation de l'invention ;et
  • la figure 21 est une représentation vue de dessus d'une pièce de décoration dans laquelle les pierres sont placées aléatoirement;
Other particularities and advantages will emerge clearly from the description which is given hereinafter, by way of indication and in no way limiting, with reference to the appended drawings, in which:
  • the figure 1 is a perspective representation of a step of fixing stones according to the invention;
  • the figure 2 is a sectional representation of the end of the fixing step according to the invention;
  • the figure 3 is an enlarged partial representation of the figure 2 ;
  • the figure 4 is a representation of the figure 3 according to an alternative of the invention;
  • the figure 5 and 7 are representations similar to the figure 3 deposition of material according to the invention;
  • the figure 6 is a perspective representation of a second deposition step according to the invention;
  • the figure 8 is a sectional representation of a decoration piece according to the invention;
  • the figure 9 is a sectional representation of a decorative piece according to another alternative of the invention;
  • the figure 10 is a view from above of a decoration piece according to the invention;
  • the figure 11 is a top view of a decorative piece according to a variant of the invention;
  • the figure 12 is a top view of a decorative piece according to another variant of the invention;
  • the Figures 13 to 16 are a representation of a possibility of the process according to the invention;
  • the Figures 17 to 20 are a representation of a possibility of the method according to another embodiment of the invention, and
  • the figure 21 is a top view of a decorative piece in which the stones are placed randomly;

Description détaillée des modes de réalisation préférésDetailed Description of the Preferred Embodiments

Comme illustré aux figures 8 à 12, l'invention se rapporte à des pièces de décoration généralement annotées 1, 3 et 5 pouvant être rapportées, notamment, sur des articles de joaillerie ou de bijouterie et des pièces d'horlogerie (notamment au niveau du cadran et de l'habillage). Cependant, ces pièces de décoration 1, 3, 5 ne sauraient se limiter aux applications ci-dessus. A titre d'exemple, les pièces de décoration 1, 3, 5 pourraient également être rapportées sur d'autres objets comme, par exemple, des lunettes.As illustrated in Figures 8 to 12 the invention relates to generally annotated decoration pieces 1, 3 and 5 which can be reported, in particular, on jewelery or jewelery articles and timepieces (especially at the level of the dial and the dressing). However, these decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 can not be limited to the above applications. For example, the decorative pieces 1, 3, 5 could also be reported on other objects such as, for example, glasses.

Plus particulièrement, l'invention se rapporte à un dispositif de fixation 7 ,7' du type serti invisible permettant d'attacher plusieurs pierres 2 précieuses, semi-précieuses ou synthétiques par une de leurs faces comme leur culasse 4 et/ou leur couronne de manière à ce que les feuilletis 6 des pierres 2 (également appelés rondistes) soient montés bord à bord afin que les tables 8 des pierres 2 soient sensiblement parallèles voir coplanaires.More particularly, the invention relates to an attachment device 7, 7 'of the invisible crimped type making it possible to attach several precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones 2 by one of their faces such as their yoke 4 and / or their crown. so that the layers 6 of the stones 2 (also called rondistes) are mounted edge to edge so that the tables 8 of the stones 2 are substantially parallel or coplanar.

Ainsi, quelles que soient la distribution et/ou la forme des pierres 2 utilisées comme illustrés par exemple aux figures 10 à 12, le dispositif de fixation 7, 7' comporte une base unique 9, 9' attachant les pierres 2 les unes par rapport aux autres de manière très précise. Avantageusement selon l'invention et contrairement à ce qui est habituellement réalisé pour fabriquer un serti invisible, la matière de la base 9, 9' est apportée et non enlevée puis déformée au fur et à mesure.Thus, whatever the distribution and / or the shape of the stones 2 used as illustrated for example in Figures 10 to 12 , the fixing device 7, 7 'comprises a single base 9, 9' attaching the stones 2 to each other very precisely. Advantageously according to the invention and contrary to what is usually done to manufacture an invisible seam, the material of the base 9, 9 'is made and not removed and then deformed as and when.

On comprend immédiatement que la base unique 9, 9' permet ainsi de parfaitement recouvrir les culasses 4 des pierres 2 avec un minimum de contraintes mécaniques transmis aux pierres. Bien entendu, il est envisageable que les pierres 2 soient attachées par leur couronne c'est-à-dire que la base unique 9, 9' permet de parfaitement recouvrir les couronnes des pierres 2. De même, il est possible que le dispositif de fixation 7 ,7' du type serti invisible permette d'attacher plusieurs pierres 2 de sorte que certaines pierres soient fixées à la base unique 9, 9' par leur culasse 4 et que certaines pierres soient fixées à la base unique 9, 9' par leur couronne. Cette alternance de fixation par couronne ou culasse peut être aléatoire. Dans le reste de la description, il ne sera décrit que le dispositif de fixation 7, 7' comporte une base unique 9, 9' attachant les pierres 2 les unes par rapport aux autres par leur culasse 4.It is immediately understood that the single base 9, 9 'thus perfectly covers the cylinder heads 4 of the stones 2 with a minimum of mechanical stresses transmitted to the stones. Of course, it is conceivable that the stones 2 are attached by their crown, that is to say that the single base 9, 9 'perfectly covers the crowns of the stones 2. Similarly, it is possible that the device of fixing 7, 7 'invisible crimped type allows to attach several stones 2 so that some stones are fixed to the single base 9, 9' by their cylinder head 4 and some stones are fixed to the single base 9, 9 'by their crown. This alternation of fixation by crown or cylinder head can be random. In the rest of the description, only the fixing device 7, 7 'has a single base 9, 9' connecting the stones 2 relative to each other by their cylinder head 4.

Ainsi, avantageusement selon l'invention, la base 9, 9' est nativement de forme correspondante aux culasses 4 des pierres 2 quelles que soient les dispersions de ces dernières. Cela est rendu possible par l'utilisation d'un procédé de fabrication selon l'invention qui sera expliqué ci-après et qui comporte notamment une étape de recouvrement de matière.Thus, advantageously according to the invention, the base 9, 9 'is natively corresponding in shape to the yokes 4 of the stones 2 whatever the dispersions thereof. This is made possible by the use of a manufacturing method according to the invention which will be explained hereinafter and which comprises in particular a material recovery step.

Dans un premier mode de réalisation illustré à la figure 8, le dispositif de fixation 7 comporte une base unique 9 recouvrant la totalité des culasses 4 des pierres 2. Ce premier mode de réalisation engendre une esthétique très homogène de la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5.In a first embodiment illustrated in figure 8 , the fixing device 7 comprises a single base 9 covering all of the yokes 4 of the stones 2. This first embodiment generates a very homogeneous aesthetic of the decoration piece 1, 3, 5.

Dans un deuxième mode de réalisation illustré à la figure 9, le dispositif de fixation 7' comporte une base unique ne recouvrant pas la totalité des culasses 4 des pierres 2. Comme illustré à la figure 9, la base unique 9' forme ainsi un maillage qui suit le feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. Ce deuxième mode de réalisation permet d'améliorer la réflexion interne totale des pierres 2 utilisées pour la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5. Il permet aussi de ne pas avoir à ouvrir la base unique par voie mécanique, par exemple, à l'aide d'un outil de sertisseur, et ainsi d'éviter de rayer les pierres.In a second embodiment illustrated in figure 9 , the fastening device 7 'has a single base that does not cover all the yokes 4 of the stones 2. As illustrated in FIG. figure 9 , the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2. This second embodiment makes it possible to improve the total internal reflection of the stones 2 used for the decoration part 1, 3, 5. It also allows not having to open the single base mechanically, for example, using a crimping tool, and thus to avoid scratching the stones.

La pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 ainsi formée, même selon des formes plus ou moins complexes, comme, par exemple, une forme 3 en vague illustrée à la figure 11, une forme 5 sans symétrie particulière illustrée à la figure 12 ou une forme 1 totalement symétrique illustrée à la figure 10, peut, par conséquent, être facilement rapportée sur un produit final par l'intermédiaire de sa base unique 9, 9'.The decorative piece 1, 3, 5 thus formed, even in more or less complex shapes, such as, for example, a waveform 3 illustrated in FIG. figure 11 , a form 5 without particular symmetry illustrated in the figure 12 or a completely symmetrical form 1 illustrated in FIG. figure 10 , can, therefore, be easily reported on a final product through its single base 9, 9 '.

Selon une alternative de l'invention visible aux figures 3, 8 et 9, dans le but d'améliorer la force d'attache du dispositif de fixation 7, 7', chacune des culasses 4 des pierres 2 comporte au moins une gorge 10. Du fait que la base 9, 9' corresponde parfaitement à la forme de la culasse 4 des pierres 2, on comprend que la base 9, 9' forme alors des crochets qui maintiennent plus fermement chaque pierre 2 par sa culasse 4. Préférentiellement, chaque pierre 2 comporte deux gorges 10 sur deux facettes opposées de sa culasse 4. Cependant, chaque gorge peut, également, former une rainure périphérique sur chaque culasse 4 afin de rendre maximale la force d'attache mécanique du dispositif de fixation 7, 7'. Bien entendu, si les pierres 2 sont fixées à la base unique 9, 9' par leur couronne, ladite au moins une gorge 10 est située sur ladite couronne.According to an alternative of the invention visible to figures 3 , 8 and 9 , in order to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 7, 7 ', each of the yokes 4 of the stones 2 comprises at least one groove 10. Because the base 9, 9' corresponds perfectly to the shape of the the yoke 4 of the stones 2, it is understood that the base 9, 9 'then forms hooks which hold each stone 2 more firmly by its breech 4. Preferably, each stone 2 has two grooves 10 on two opposite facets of its breech 4. However, each groove may also form a peripheral groove on each breech 4 in order to maximize the mechanical fastening force of the fastening device 7, 7 '. Of course, if the stones 2 are fixed to the single base 9, 9 'by their crown, said at least one groove 10 is located on said ring.

Selon une autre alternative de l'invention, la base unique 9, 9' peut également directement former le corps du produit final ce qui évite d'avoir à rapporter la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 sur un autre corps.According to another alternative of the invention, the single base 9, 9 'can also directly form the body of the final product which avoids having to bring the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 onto another body.

Avantageusement, le matériau appliqué, appelé premier matériau, est un matériau amorphe ou partiellement amorphe. Ce matériau est préférentiellement un alliage métallique. Le terme partiellement amorphe indique que pour un bloc de matière, le pourcentage de quantité de matière dudit bloc présentant l'état amorphe est suffisant pour que le bloc en lui-même présente les caractéristiques spécifiques aux métaux et alliages métalliques amorphes. Les matériaux amorphes ont l'avantage de pouvoir être facilement mis en forme en dessus de leur température de transition vitreuse Tg. Ils ont également l'avantage de présenter très peu de retrait dimensionnel lors de leur solidification, ceci en raison de l'absence de cristallisation. De même, il peut être possible d'utiliser un métal précieux ou un de ces alliages afin de donner un caractère noble à ladite pièce décorative. Ainsi, le métal précieux ou un de ces alliages est compris dans la liste comportant l'or, le platine, le palladium, le rhénium, le ruthénium, le rhodium, l'argent, l'iridium ou l'osmium..Advantageously, the applied material, called the first material, is an amorphous or partially amorphous material. This material is preferably a metal alloy. The partially amorphous term indicates that for a block of material, the percentage of material amount of said block having the amorphous state is sufficient for the block itself to have the characteristics specific to amorphous metals and metal alloys. The amorphous materials have the advantage of being easily shaped above their glass transition temperature Tg. They also have the advantage of having very little dimensional shrinkage during their solidification, because of the absence of crystallization. Similarly, it may be possible to use a precious metal or one of these alloys to give a noble character to said decorative piece. Thus, the precious metal or one of these alloys is included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.

Le procédé d'invention va maintenant être expliqué en relation avec les figures 1 à 9 et 13. Dans une première étape, le procédé consiste à se munir de pierres 2 dont les feuilletis 6 autorisent leur montage bord à bord afin, par exemple, d'obtenir les variantes de réalisation des figures 10, 11 et 12, c'est-à-dire un plan homogène de pierres 2.The method of the invention will now be explained in relation to the Figures 1 to 9 and 13 . In a first step, the method consists in providing stones 2 whose laminates 6 allow their assembly edge to edge so as, for example, to obtain the variants of embodiments of figures 10 , 11 and 12 , that is to say, a homogeneous plan of stones 2.

Dans une deuxième étape, les pierres 2 sont solidarisées les unes après les autres sur un support 12. De plus, comme mieux visible à la figure 2, la face 15 où sont rapportées les pierres 2 doit comporter une bonne planéité. Préférentiellement, chaque pierre 2 est solidarisée par une première face sur la face 15 du support 12 par collage de sa table 8 au moyen d'une colle résistante aux températures, type epoxy utilisées lors de l'application du métal. Bien entendu, d'autres types de solidarisation compatibles avec le reste des étapes du procédé ou même d'autres types de colle sont envisageables. De plus, il peut être envisagé que le support 12 comprend des creusures réalisées pour que la table 8 de chaque pierre 2 s'y insère. Les pierres 2 sont alors toutes placées dans une creusure ce qui limite la liberté de mouvement desdites pierres 2.In a second step, the stones 2 are secured one after the other on a support 12. Moreover, as better visible in the figure 2 , the face 15 where are reported stones 2 must have a good flatness. Preferably, each stone 2 is secured by a first face on the face 15 of the support 12 by gluing its table 8 by means of an epoxy-resistant glue used at the time of the application of the metal. Of course, other types of joining compatible with the rest of the process steps or even other types of glue are conceivable. In addition, it may be envisaged that the support 12 comprises recesses made so that the table 8 of each stone 2 is inserted therein. The stones 2 are then all placed in a recess which limits the freedom of movement of said stones 2.

Les figures 3 et 4 représentent un agrandissement focalisé sur les feuilletis 6 des pierres 2 selon deux alternatives de l'invention expliquées ci-dessus. On comprend ainsi immédiatement que la précision de taille des feuilletis 6 ou rondistes des pierres 2 a une très grande importance. En effet, selon l'invention les feuilletis 6 doivent être montés bord à bord afin de limiter la grandeur des interstices entre les pierres 2. Ces feuilletis montés bord à bords forment des semblants de creusures 4.The figures 3 and 4 represent a focused magnification on the laminates 6 of the stones 2 according to two alternatives of the invention explained above. It is thus immediately understood that the size accuracy of the 6 or rondist layers of the stones 2 is of great importance. Indeed, according to the invention, the laminates 6 must be mounted edge to edge in order to limit the size of the interstices between the stones 2. These laminates mounted edge to edge form semblants of recesses 4.

Ainsi, comme expliqué ci-dessus, dans le cas où on ne souhaite pas améliorer la force d'attache du dispositif de fixation 7, 7', les pierres 2 ne comportent pas de gorges 10 et sont amenées les unes contre les autres au niveau de leurs feuilletis 6 comme illustré aux figures 1 et 4. Dans ce cas, on comprend que seules les interactions chimiques entre les matériaux assurent la fixation des pierres.Thus, as explained above, in the case where it is not desired to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 7, 7 ', the stones 2 do not have grooves 10 and are brought against each other at the of their leaflets 6 as illustrated in figures 1 and 4 . In this case, it is understood that only the chemical interactions between the materials ensure the fixing of the stones.

Dans le cas où on souhaite améliorer la force d'attache du dispositif de fixation 7, 7', une étape intermédiaire entre la première étape et la seconde étape de solidarisation est nécessaire. L'étape intermédiaire est destinée à graver au moins une gorge 10 dans au moins une partie des culasses 4 des pierres 2. Ainsi, lors de la deuxième étape ou étape de solidarisation, les pierres 2 sont amenées les unes contre les autres au niveau de leurs feuilletis 6 comme illustré aux figures 1 et 5. Dans l'exemple de réalisation de la figure 5, on peut voir que les gorges 10 de deux pierres 2 se font vis-à-vis.In the case where it is desired to improve the fastening force of the fixing device 7, 7 ', an intermediate step between the first step and the second securing step is necessary. The intermediate step is intended to engrave at least one groove 10 in at least a portion of the yokes 4 of the stones 2. Thus, during the second step or step of solidarization, the stones 2 are brought against each other at their level 6 as shown in FIGS. Figures 1 and 5 . In the exemplary embodiment of the figure 5 , we can see that the grooves 10 of two stones 2 are vis-à-vis.

Dans l'exemple illustré à la figure 1, on peut voir que le support 12 peut également comporter un gabarit 14 de forme dédiée pour aider à démarrer le plan de pierres 2. Ce gabarit 14 peut ainsi former une équerre comme à la figure 1 pour former une pièce de décoration 1 symétrique ou un corps courbe pour former une pièce de décoration 3 en vague. A la fin de la seconde étape, comme illustré à la figure 1, on obtient donc un pavé de pierres 2 solidarisées par leur table 8 sur la face 15 du support 12. Il est bien entendu envisageable que le support 12 et le gabarit 14 ne forment qu'une seule et même pièce. Cependant, de manière préférée, le gabarit est composé de plusieurs éléments formant un cadre 16 agencé pour circonscrire l'alliage amorphe au-dessus desdites culasses des pierres 2 comme visible aux figures 6 et 7.In the example shown in figure 1 , it can be seen that the support 12 may also include a template 14 of dedicated shape to help start the stone plane 2. This template 14 can thus form a square like the figure 1 to form a symmetrical decoration piece 1 or a curved body to form a decoration piece 3 in wave. At the end of the second stage, as shown in figure 1 , we thus obtain a stone block 2 secured by their table 8 on the face 15 of the support 12. It is of course conceivable that the support 12 and the template 14 form a single piece. However, preferably, the template is composed of several elements forming a frame 16 arranged to circumscribe the amorphous alloy above said cylinder heads 2 as visible at Figures 6 and 7 .

Le procédé 21 se poursuit avec une étape destinée à former l'unique base 9, 9' sur une seconde face des pierres 2.The method 21 continues with a step intended to form the single base 9, 9 'on a second face of the stones 2.

Une des méthodes pour déposer le matériau constitutif de la base 9, 9' consiste à utiliser le formage à chaud.One of the methods for depositing the constituent material of the base 9, 9 'is to use the hot forming.

Les figures 13 à 16 représentent de manière simplifiée les étapes permettant de réaliser cette base unique 9, 9'.The Figures 13 to 16 represent, in a simplified manner, the steps that make it possible to produce this unique base 9, 9 '.

Au préalable, il est nécessaire de réaliser une préforme en alliage métallique amorphe. Cette préforme 6a peut être réalisée par différentes techniques telles que par exemple l'injection dans un moule de forme, le formage à chaud au-dessus de Tg, l'étampage de bande, ou encore par usinage. Une fois cette préforme réalisée, elle est placée au-dessus des pierres 2 et peut être en appui sur le gabarit 14 ou le cadre 16 comme visible à la figure 14.Beforehand, it is necessary to make an amorphous metal alloy preform. This preform 6a may be made by various techniques such as, for example, injection into a form mold, hot forming above Tg, stamping of the strip, or by machining. Once this preform made, it is placed above the stones 2 and can be supported on the template 14 or the frame 16 as visible in the figure 14 .

L'ensemble est alors chauffé à une température supérieure à la température de transition vitreuse Tg, permettant ainsi une diminution de la viscosité de la préforme, puis une pression est exercée. Une fois ces conditions réunies, la pression exercée sur la préforme visqueuse permet à l'alliage amorphe visqueux de recouvrir toute la surface des pierres 2 et donc de remplir les creusures 6a formées par les feuilletis bords à bords comme visible à la figure 15. Ensuite, lorsque les creusures 6a sont remplies, on refroidit l'ensemble afin de conserver l'état amorphe de l'alliage.The assembly is then heated to a temperature above the glass transition temperature Tg, thus allowing a decrease in the viscosity of the preform, and then a pressure is exerted. Once these conditions are met, the pressure exerted on the viscous preform allows the amorphous viscous alloy to cover the entire surface of the stones 2 and thus to fill the recesses 6a formed by the laminated edges with edges as visible in FIG. figure 15 . Then, when the recesses 6a are filled, the assembly is cooled in order to maintain the amorphous state of the alloy.

Ce type de matériaux convient bien du fait que la forte diminution de leur viscosité lorsqu'ils sont chauffés en-dessus de leur Tg entraîne la diminution de la contrainte à appliquer pour assurer le remplissage des creusures 6a avec l'alliage métallique amorphe. De ce fait, les pierres ne risquent pas de se briser bien qu'une opération de pressage soit effectuée. D'autre part, cette diminution de la viscosité permet à l'alliage métallique amorphe de s'insérer dans chaque relief de cet assemblage de pierres 2 et donc d'en prendre tous les contours. Un autre avantage de ce mode de réalisation est qu'il peut être réalisé à des températures relativement basses, ce qui permet d'éviter la dégradation des pierres ainsi que de diminuer les risques de rupture des pierres en raison des chocs thermiques. A cet effet, des alliages métalliques amorphes ayant des températures de transition vitreuse Tg comprises entre 100 et 450°C pourront être préférentiellement utilisés.This type of material is well suited because the sharp decrease in their viscosity when heated above their Tg results in the reduction of the stress to be applied to ensure the filling of the recesses 6a with the amorphous metal alloy. Therefore, the stones are not likely to break although a pressing operation is performed. On the other hand, this reduction in viscosity allows the amorphous metal alloy to be inserted in each relief of this assembly of stones 2 and thus to take all the contours. Another advantage of this embodiment is that it can be carried out at relatively low temperatures, which makes it possible to avoid the degradation of stones as well as to reduce the risk of stones breaking due to thermal shocks. For this purpose, amorphous metal alloys having glass transition temperatures Tg between 100 and 450 ° C may be preferentially used.

Bien entendu, d'autres types de mise en forme sont possibles comme la mise en forme par coulée ou injection. Ce procédé consiste à chauffer une préforme métallique au-dessus de son point de fusion et couler ou injecter le liquide ainsi obtenu sur les pierres 2. Dans ce cas présent, il peut être envisagé que le cadre 16 ait une hauteur au moins égale à celle des pierres 2. Il forme alors un espace 17 qui sera rempli d'alliage fondu. Une fois l'espace 17 rempli, une étape de refroidissement jusqu'à une température inférieure à Tg est effectuée afin d'éviter la cristallisation de l'alliage pour enfin obtenir une creusure 6a remplie d'alliage métallique amorphe ou partiellement amorphe. Contrairement aux métaux cristallins, les alliages métalliques amorphes permettent ce mode de réalisation et ceci pour deux raisons principales. Premièrement parce qu'ils ne présentent que très peu de retrait de solidification en comparaison des métaux cristallins, respectivement environ 0.5% et 4-7%. Ceci permet d'assurer une très bonne cohésion entre les pierres et le métal amorphe, donc une très bonne tenue. Deuxièmement parce que les températures de fusion des métaux amorphes sont, pour une famille d'alliages donnée, largement inférieures à celles des métaux cristallins. Par exemple, les alliages de platine cristallins ont un point de fusion de l'ordre de 1600-1700°C alors que les alliages de platine amorphes de composition PtCuNiP ont un point de fusion d'environ 600°C. Ceci permet donc de simplifier considérablement l'outillage utilisé et surtout de préserver l'intégrité des pierres et notamment des diamants qui se décomposent vers 600-800°C dans l'air.Of course, other types of formatting are possible such as shaping by casting or injection. This method consists of heating a metal preform above its melting point and pouring or injecting the liquid thus obtained onto the stones 2. In this case, it can be envisaged that the frame 16 has a height at least equal to that 2. It then forms a space 17 which will be filled with molten alloy. Once the space 17 has been filled, a cooling step up to a temperature below Tg is carried out in order to avoid the crystallization of the alloy to finally obtain a hollow 6a filled with amorphous or partially amorphous metal alloy. Unlike crystalline metals, amorphous metal alloys allow this embodiment for two main reasons. First, because they have very little solidification shrinkage compared to the crystalline metals, respectively about 0.5% and 4-7%. This ensures a very good cohesion between the stones and the amorphous metal, so a very good behavior. Secondly, the melting temperatures of the amorphous metals are, for a given family of alloys, much lower than those of the crystalline metals. For example, crystalline platinum alloys have a melting point in the range of 1600-1700 ° C while amorphous platinum alloys of PtCuNiP composition have a melting point of about 600 ° C. This therefore makes it possible to simplify considerably the tools used and especially to preserve the integrity of the stones and in particular the diamonds which decompose around 600-800 ° C in the air.

Bien entendu, la mise en forme par densification de poudre est envisageable. Le procédé de densification de poudre consiste à introduire une poudre métallique, ayant la capacité de devenir amorphe à des vitesses de refroidissement inférieures ou égales à 100'000°C/sec,dans l'espace 17 formé par le support 2 et le cadre 16 et à la consolider par un apport d'énergie tel un four, un faisceau laser, un faisceau ionique ou tout autre moyen thermique.Of course, the shaping by powder densification is possible. The powder densification process consists of introducing a metal powder, having the capacity to become amorphous at cooling rates of less than or equal to 100,000 ° C / sec, in the space 17 formed by the support 2 and the frame 16. and to consolidate it by a supply of energy such as an oven, a laser beam, an ion beam or any other thermal means.

Bien entendu, la quantité de premier matériau c'est-à-dire d'alliage métallique amorphe peut être calculée pour ne former qu'une couche dont l'épaisseur est inférieure à celle des pierres 2 voir inférieure à la moitié de la hauteur des pierres 2 comme visible à la figure 7. Cette couche peut épouser la forme des pierres 2.Of course, the amount of the first material, that is to say amorphous metal alloy, can be calculated to form only one layer whose thickness is less than that of the stones 2 or less than half the height of the stones 2 as visible to the figure 7 . This layer can follow the shape of stones 2.

Dans l'alternative illustrée à la figure 9 dans laquelle la base unique 9' forme ainsi un maillage qui suit le feuilletis 6 des pierres 2, un élément pochoir est utilisé. Cet élément pochoir se présente sous la forme d'une plaque comprenant des orifices prenant la forme du maillage qui suit le feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. Ce pochoir est placé préalablement sur les pierres 2 avant que l'étape de formage à chaud,de coulée ou de frittage ait lieu. Ce pochoir est préférentiellement réalisé de sorte à pouvoir se dissoudre chimiquement. Alternativement, dans le cas du formage à chaud, le préforme est réalisée de sorte à présenter la forme du maillage qui suit le feuilletis 6 des pierres 2. Il suffit alors de placer cette préforme sur les pierres au niveau du feuilletis 6 des pierres 2 et de réaliser l'opération de formage à chaud. On pourrait même envisager que l'opération de coulée se fait par une machine qui va verser le métal en fusion directement au niveau du maillage qui suit le feuilletis 6 des pierres 2.In the alternative illustrated in figure 9 in which the single base 9 'thus forms a mesh which follows the leaflet 6 of the stones 2, a stencil element is used. This stencil element is in the form of a plate comprising orifices in the form of the mesh which follows the This stencil is placed beforehand on the stones 2 before the hot forming, casting or sintering step takes place. This stencil is preferably made so as to be able to dissolve chemically. Alternatively, in the case of hot forming, the preform is made so as to have the shape of the mesh which follows the laminate 6 of the stones 2. It is then sufficient to place this preform on the stones at the level of the sheet 6 stones 2 and to perform the hot forming operation. One could even consider that the casting operation is done by a machine which will pour the molten metal directly at the level of the mesh which follows the layer 6 stones 2.

Selon une autre alternative de l'invention, la base unique 9, 9' peut également directement former le corps du produit final ce qui évite d'avoir à rapporter la pièce de décoration 1, 3, 5 sur un autre corps.According to another alternative of the invention, the single base 9, 9 'can also directly form the body of the final product which avoids having to bring the decoration piece 1, 3, 5 onto another body.

Par la suite, une étape de désolidarisation est réalisée. Cette étape de désolidarisation consiste à séparer l'ensemble formé par les pierres 2 et la base unique 9, 9' du support 12 et du gabarit 14 pour obtenir la pièce de décoration de la figure 16. Pour cela, il peut être prévu plusieurs solutions.Subsequently, a decoupling step is performed. This uncoupling step consists in separating the assembly formed by the stones 2 and the single base 9, 9 'of the support 12 and the template 14 to obtain the decorative part of the figure 16 . For this, several solutions can be provided.

Une première solution consiste à simplement désassembler le support et le gabarit de l'ensemble formé par les pierres 2 et la base unique 9, 9'. Dans le cas où les pierres 2 sont collées à la table 15 du support 12, un agent chimique peut être utilisé pour dissoudre la colle.A first solution is to simply disassemble the support and the template of the assembly formed by the stones 2 and the single base 9, 9 '. In the case where the stones 2 are glued to the table 15 of the support 12, a chemical agent can be used to dissolve the glue.

Une seconde solution consiste à dissoudre ledit gabarit et le support 12. En effet, le gabarit 14 et le support 12 sont réalisés dans un matériau pouvant se dissoudre.A second solution is to dissolve said template and the support 12. Indeed, the template 14 and the support 12 are made of a material that can dissolve.

Un autre mode de réalisation, visible aux figures 17 à 20, peut être utilisé. Ce mode de réalisation consiste à profiter de la grande déformation élastique des alliages amorphes, typiquement 2%, contrairement aux alliages cristallins qui se déforment plastiquement à partir de 0.5 %.Another embodiment, visible to Figures 17 to 20 , can be used. This embodiment consists in taking advantage of the large elastic deformation of amorphous alloys, typically 2%, unlike crystalline alloys which deform plastically from 0.5%.

Pour cela, une première étape consiste à se munir d'un support 120 présentant un logement 121.For this, a first step is to provide a support 120 having a housing 121.

Dans le logement 121 du support 120, un dépôt 22 de premier matériau qui est un matériau métallique amorphe ou partiellement amorphe est déposé comme visible à la figure 18. Ce dépôt 22 de matériau métallique amorphe peut être réalisé par les méthodes de formage à chaud ou de coulée ou d'injection ou de densification de poudre décrites précédemment.In the housing 121 of the support 120, a deposit 22 of the first material which is an amorphous or partially amorphous metallic material is deposited as visible to the figure 18 . This deposition 22 of amorphous metallic material can be achieved by the methods of hot forming or casting or injection or powder densification previously described.

Ensuite, l'étape suivante consiste à usiner ce dépôt 22 pour réaliser des trous 23 dans lesquels les pierres 2 viendront à être serties comme visible à la figure 19. Cette figure décline une version avec des pierres serties par leur culasse mais on pourrait très bien imaginer des pierres serties par leur couronne ou encore un dispositif aléatoire avec des pierres serties par leur couronne et leur culasse. Cet usinage peut être réalisé de plusieurs façons. D'une part il peut être fait par enlèvement de matière par laser ou par foret.Then, the next step is to machine this deposit 22 to make holes 23 in which the stones 2 will be crimped as visible in the figure 19 . This figure declines a version with stones set by their breech but one could very well imagine stones set by their crown or a random device with stones set by their crown and their cylinder head. This machining can be done in several ways. On the one hand it can be done by removal of material by laser or drill.

Cet usinage peut être également réalisé en utilisant les propriétés du métal amorphe. En effet, ce dernier voit sa viscosité diminuée lorsqu'il est chauffé à une température située entre sa température de transition vitreuse Tg et sa température de cristallisation Tx. Un outil ayant la géométrie négative du trou est appliqué, avec une certaine force, sur le métal amorphe remplissant la creusure. Il est ainsi possible d'éviter les étapes d'usinage qui peuvent être difficiles selon les alliages amorphes utilisés.This machining can also be performed using the properties of the amorphous metal. Indeed, the latter sees its viscosity decreased when heated to a temperature between its glass transition temperature Tg and its crystallization temperature Tx. A tool having the negative geometry of the hole is applied, with a certain force, on the amorphous metal filling the hollow. It is thus possible to avoid the machining steps that can be difficult depending on the amorphous alloys used.

Avantageusement selon ce mode de réalisation, un moyen de fixation 24 est agencé au niveau du flanc 23a de chaque trou 23. Ce moyen de fixation 24 consiste en au moins une excroissance faite de matière avec le matériau du dépôt 22.Advantageously according to this embodiment, a fixing means 24 is arranged at the side 23a of each hole 23. This fixing means 24 consists of at least one protrusion made of material with the material of the deposit 22.

La méthode de sertissage consiste alors à presser la pierre 2 dans le trou. Par déformation élastique, les moyens de fixation se déforment permettant l'insertion de ladite pierre. Lorsque l'excroissance se trouve en regard de la gorge 10 de la pierre 2, un retour élastique s'exerce de sorte que l'excroissance s'insère dans la gorge 10 et permette de maintenir définitivement celui-ci comme visible à la figure 20.The method of crimping then consists of pressing the stone 2 into the hole. By elastic deformation, the fixing means are deformed allowing the insertion of said stone. When the outgrowth is facing the groove 10 of the stone 2, an elastic return is exerted so that the protrusion fits into the groove 10 and allows to permanently maintain it as visible to the figure 20 .

Préférentiellement, les dimensions du logement 121 sont calculées de sorte que la hauteur du logement soit au moins égale à celle des pierres 2 et que la largueur et/ou la longueur soient au moins égales à celles de l'ensemble des pierres 2 misent bord à bord.Preferably, the dimensions of the housing 121 are calculated so that the height of the housing is at least equal to that of the stones 2 and that the width and / or the length are at least equal to those of all the stones 2 dont edge to edge.

On comprendra que diverses modifications et/ou améliorations et/ou combinaisons évidentes pour l'homme du métier peuvent être apportées aux différents modes de réalisation de l'invention exposée ci-dessus sans sortir du cadre de l'invention définie par les revendications annexées.It will be understood that various modifications and / or improvements and / or combinations obvious to those skilled in the art can be made to the various embodiments of the invention set out above without departing from the scope of the invention defined by the appended claims.

Claims (32)

  1. Decorative piece (1, 3, 5) comprising a plurality of stones (2) and a device (7, 7') for fixing the stones (2) relative to each other, the fixing device (7, 7') comprises a single base (9, 9') made of a first material which makes it possible to attach all the stones (2) relative to each other by one of their faces, the kites (6) of stones (2) are mounted edge to edge relative to each other so that said single base is masked, characterised in that the first material is an at least partially amorphous alloy.
  2. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to the preceding claim, characterised in that the single base (9) makes it possible to attach all the stones (2) relative to each other by their culet (4).
  3. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 1, characterised in that the single base (9) makes it possible to attach all the stones (2) relative to each other by their crown.
  4. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 1, characterised in that the single base (9) makes it possible to attach a plurality of stones (2) so that certain stones (2) are fixed by their culet and certain stones (2) are fixed by their crown.
  5. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 2, characterised in that the single base (9) covers the totality of the culets (4) of said stones.
  6. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 2, characterised in that the single base (9') leaves a part of the culets (4) of said stones uncovered.
  7. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 3, characterised in that the single base (9) covers the totality of the crowns of said stones.
  8. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 3, characterised in that the single base (9') leaves a part of the crowns (4) of said stones uncovered.
  9. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 2, characterised in that the fixing device (7, 7') comprises at least one undercut (10) produced in at least one of the stones (2) at the level of their culet (4) so that the single base (9, 9'), of a shape corresponding at least partially to each culet (4), forms at least one hook for each of said at least one of the stones (2).
  10. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 3, characterised in that the fixing device (7, 7') comprises at least one undercut (10) produced in at least one of the stones (2) at the level of their crown so that the single base (9, 9'), of a shape corresponding at least partially to each crown, forms at least one hook for each of said at least one of the stones (2).
  11. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 9, characterised in that said at least one undercut (10) forms two grooves in two faces of the culet (4).
  12. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to claim 10, characterised in that said at least one undercut (10) forms two grooves in two faces of the crown.
  13. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the first material is a totally amorphous metallic material.
  14. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims, characterised in that the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
  15. Piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the claims 1 to 14, characterised in that the first material is an amorphous alloy having a glass transition temperature which is less than or equal to 450°C.
  16. Timepiece, characterised in that it comprises, set-in, at least one decorative piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the preceding claims.
  17. Jewellery or gemstone article, characterised in that it comprises, set-in, at least one decorative piece (1, 3, 5) according to one of the claims 1 to 15.
  18. Method for manufacturing a decorative piece (1, 3, 5), characterised in that it comprises the following steps:
    a) providing a plurality of stones (2);
    b) making a first face of each stone (2) integral against a support (12), the kites (6) of the stones (2) being mounted edge to edge relative to each other so as to form a paved setting of stones (2);
    c) depositing a layer of a first material on at least one part of a second face of the stone so as to form a single base (9, 9'), said first material being a metallic alloy which is at least partially amorphous;
    d) withdrawing the thus formed decorative piece (1, 3, 5) by separating each of said second faces relative to the support (12).
  19. Method for manufacturing a decorative piece (1, 3, 5), characterised in that it comprises the following steps:
    1) providing a support (120) provided with a housing (122);
    2) depositing a layer of a first material in the housing, said first material being a metallic alloy which is at least partially amorphous;
    3) forming, in said first material, at least one hole (23) provided with fixing means (24);
    4) setting, in said at least one hole (23), at least one stone (2) provided with at least one undercut (10) so as to induce elastic deformation of the fixing means (24) until elastic resilience is exerted when the fixing means (24) are situated opposite said at least one undercut (10);
    5) withdrawing the thus formed decorative piece (1, 3, 5) by separating each of said set stones relative to the support (120).
  20. Method (21) according to claim 18, characterised in that it comprises, between step a) and step b), the following step:
    e) engraving at least one undercut (10) in the culets (4) of said stones so that the single base (9, 9') deposited during step c) fills each of said at least one undercut (10) whilst forming a fixing hook.
  21. Method according to claim 18, characterised in that it comprises, between step c) and step d), the following step:
    g) forming a frame (16) around said paved setting in order to surround the deposit of step c) above said culets of the stones (2).
  22. Method according to claim 18, characterised in that the first face is the table of the crown, the second face being the culet (4).
  23. Method according to claim 18, characterised in that the first face is the culet (4), the second face being the table of the crown.
  24. Method according to claim 18, characterised in that the single base (9) makes it possible to attach a plurality of stones (2) so that certain stones (2) are fixed by their culet and certain stones (2) are fixed by their crown.
  25. Method according to one of the claims 18 or 19, characterised in that covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by hot forming.
  26. Method according to one of the claims 18 or 19, characterised in that the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by casting or injection.
  27. Method according to one of the claims 18 or 19, characterised in that the covering step c) or 2) consists of an application of the first material by powder sintering.
  28. Method according to one of the claims 18 to 27, characterised in that said first material is totally amorphous.
  29. Method according to one of the claims 18 to 28, characterised in that the first material comprises at least one element which is of the precious type, included in the list comprising gold, platinum, palladium, rhenium, ruthenium, rhodium, silver, iridium or osmium.
  30. Setting method according to one of the claims 18 to 29, characterised in that it comprises in addition a final step consisting of crystallising the first material.
  31. Setting method according to one of the claims 18 to 30, characterised in that the first material is an amorphous alloy which has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 450°C.
  32. Setting method according to one of the claims 18 to 31, characterised in that said first material is a metallic alloy which is able to become amorphous at a cooling rate of less than 100.000°C/sec.
EP13165602.7A 2012-12-21 2013-04-26 Invisible set decoration element Active EP2796065B1 (en)

Priority Applications (14)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13165602.7A EP2796065B1 (en) 2013-04-26 2013-04-26 Invisible set decoration element
US14/132,129 US10588386B2 (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-18 Decorative piece with invisible setting
KR1020130160370A KR101585463B1 (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Decorative piece with invisible setting
JP2013263426A JP6008834B2 (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Decorative part and manufacturing method thereof
RU2013156819A RU2653992C2 (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Decorative detail with hidden tack
CN201710657647.5A CN107259725A (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 The method for manufacturing decoration
CN201810337850.9A CN108402614A (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 The method for manufacturing decoration
CN201811180687.6A CN109275997A (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Method for manufacturing decoration
CN201310757205.XA CN103876406A (en) 2012-12-21 2013-12-20 Decorative piece with invisible setting
HK14111861A HK1198354A1 (en) 2012-12-21 2014-11-24 Decorative piece with invisible setting
KR1020150125543A KR20150108805A (en) 2012-12-21 2015-09-04 Decorative piece with invisible setting
KR1020160135622A KR102028241B1 (en) 2012-12-21 2016-10-19 Decorative piece with invisible setting
HK18104069.8A HK1244642A1 (en) 2012-12-21 2018-03-23 Method for manufacturing a decorative piece
HK19101735.7A HK1259594A1 (en) 2012-12-21 2019-01-31 Method for manufacturing a decorative piece

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13165602.7A EP2796065B1 (en) 2013-04-26 2013-04-26 Invisible set decoration element

Publications (2)

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EP2796065A1 EP2796065A1 (en) 2014-10-29
EP2796065B1 true EP2796065B1 (en) 2016-01-13

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EP13165602.7A Active EP2796065B1 (en) 2012-12-21 2013-04-26 Invisible set decoration element

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Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3839659B1 (en) * 2019-12-16 2024-04-03 Rubattel et Weyermann S.A. Method for decorating a mechanical part

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004047582A2 (en) * 2002-11-22 2004-06-10 Liquidmetal Technologies, Inc. Jewelry made of precious amorphous metal and method of making such articles
EP2327323A1 (en) 2009-11-25 2011-06-01 Dress your body AG Decorative article with invisible setting

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EP2796065A1 (en) 2014-10-29

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