EP2070988A2 - Styryl thiol/disulfide compound with a hydroxy(cyclo)alkylamino unit, process for lightening keratin materials using this dye - Google Patents
Styryl thiol/disulfide compound with a hydroxy(cyclo)alkylamino unit, process for lightening keratin materials using this dye Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP2070988A2 EP2070988A2 EP08164737A EP08164737A EP2070988A2 EP 2070988 A2 EP2070988 A2 EP 2070988A2 EP 08164737 A EP08164737 A EP 08164737A EP 08164737 A EP08164737 A EP 08164737A EP 2070988 A2 EP2070988 A2 EP 2070988A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- group
- alkyl
- formula
- thiol
- hydrogen atom
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- -1 disulfide compound Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 131
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 title claims abstract description 63
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 31
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 title claims description 15
- FMHDIGZBJZLRCR-VOTSOKGWSA-N (e)-2-phenylethenethiol Chemical compound S\C=C\C1=CC=CC=C1 FMHDIGZBJZLRCR-VOTSOKGWSA-N 0.000 title 1
- 125000003282 alkyl amino group Chemical group 0.000 title 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 68
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 61
- 239000007850 fluorescent dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 57
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 53
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-O pyridinium Chemical compound C1=CC=[NH+]C=C1 JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 125000006239 protecting group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O ammonium group Chemical group [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 150000004677 hydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000012453 solvate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 150000001342 alkaline earth metals Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 125000003368 amide group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 125000005496 phosphonium group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 125000005504 styryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 51
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 46
- 125000004178 (C1-C4) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 40
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 36
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 27
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 20
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 19
- 150000001340 alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 18
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 18
- BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dihydrogen disulfide Chemical compound SS BWGNESOTFCXPMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 17
- UMGDCJDMYOKAJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiourea Chemical compound NC(N)=S UMGDCJDMYOKAJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 17
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 14
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000001072 heteroaryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 10
- 125000004453 alkoxycarbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000000229 (C1-C4)alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000004169 (C1-C6) alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000004434 sulfur atom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyridine Chemical group C1=CC=NC=C1 JUJWROOIHBZHMG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000003917 carbamoyl group Chemical group [H]N([H])C(*)=O 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000004043 oxo group Chemical group O=* 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000003107 substituted aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000000464 thioxo group Chemical group S=* 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000004448 alkyl carbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000005100 aryl amino carbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000005129 aryl carbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000005161 aryl oxy carbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 4
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dioxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000006832 (C1-C10) alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004183 alkoxy alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004685 alkoxythiocarbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004691 alkyl thio carbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000004682 aminothiocarbonyl group Chemical group NC(=S)* 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000000753 cycloalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000000592 heterocycloalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002500 ions Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 14
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 150000002019 disulfides Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 4
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract description 4
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 abstract description 4
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 abstract 1
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 85
- IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Atomic nitrogen Chemical compound N#N IJGRMHOSHXDMSA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 33
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 21
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 20
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 18
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 18
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 14
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 description 14
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 13
- XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl acetate Chemical compound CCOC(C)=O XEKOWRVHYACXOJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical compound OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- RWRDLPDLKQPQOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyrrolidine Chemical compound C1CCNC1 RWRDLPDLKQPQOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 12
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 12
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 11
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 11
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 10
- 125000002950 monocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 10
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 description 10
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 10
- WEVYAHXRMPXWCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetonitrile Chemical compound CC#N WEVYAHXRMPXWCK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- RAXXELZNTBOGNW-UHFFFAOYSA-O Imidazolium Chemical compound C1=C[NH+]=CN1 RAXXELZNTBOGNW-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 9
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 9
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 9
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 9
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 9
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 description 9
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 8
- AFVFQIVMOAPDHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanesulfonic acid Chemical class CS(O)(=O)=O AFVFQIVMOAPDHO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 238000007792 addition Methods 0.000 description 8
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 8
- WVIICGIFSIBFOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrylium Chemical compound C1=CC=[O+]C=C1 WVIICGIFSIBFOG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- BCMCBBGGLRIHSE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,3-benzoxazole Chemical compound C1=CC=C2OC=NC2=C1 BCMCBBGGLRIHSE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- HYZJCKYKOHLVJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1H-benzimidazole Chemical compound C1=CC=C2NC=NC2=C1 HYZJCKYKOHLVJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 235000011121 sodium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 7
- JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M toluene-4-sulfonate Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 JOXIMZWYDAKGHI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 7
- BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1O BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- YMWUJEATGCHHMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dichloromethane Chemical compound ClCCl YMWUJEATGCHHMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- NQRYJNQNLNOLGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Piperidine Chemical compound C1CCNCC1 NQRYJNQNLNOLGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- KYQCOXFCLRTKLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyrazine Chemical compound C1=CN=CC=N1 KYQCOXFCLRTKLS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 150000003857 carboxamides Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 238000007796 conventional method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- CZPWVGJYEJSRLH-UHFFFAOYSA-O hydron;pyrimidine Chemical compound C1=CN=C[NH+]=C1 CZPWVGJYEJSRLH-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 6
- 230000000269 nucleophilic effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 6
- PBMFSQRYOILNGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyridazine Chemical compound C1=CC=NN=C1 PBMFSQRYOILNGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000011541 reaction mixture Substances 0.000 description 6
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 0 C[N+]1=C(*)N(C*)*C1(*)* Chemical compound C[N+]1=C(*)N(C*)*C1(*)* 0.000 description 5
- 235000011054 acetic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 150000007513 acids Chemical class 0.000 description 5
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 5
- 150000001721 carbon Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- ZCQWOFVYLHDMMC-UHFFFAOYSA-O hydron;1,3-oxazole Chemical compound C1=COC=[NH+]1 ZCQWOFVYLHDMMC-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 5
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 5
- 125000004076 pyridyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 5
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-M triflate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)(=O)C(F)(F)F ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 5
- YGTAZGSLCXNBQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,2,4-thiadiazole Chemical compound C=1N=CSN=1 YGTAZGSLCXNBQL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- QWENRTYMTSOGBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1H-1,2,3-Triazole Chemical compound C=1C=NNN=1 QWENRTYMTSOGBR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- PMNLUUOXGOOLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-mercaptopropanoic acid Chemical compound CC(S)C(O)=O PMNLUUOXGOOLSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FKNQCJSGGFJEIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-O 4-methylpyridin-1-ium Chemical compound CC1=CC=[NH+]C=C1 FKNQCJSGGFJEIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 4
- NSPMIYGKQJPBQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4H-1,2,4-triazole Chemical compound C=1N=CNN=1 NSPMIYGKQJPBQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WKBOTKDWSSQWDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Bromine atom Chemical compound [Br] WKBOTKDWSSQWDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 4
- ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Chlorine atom Chemical compound [Cl] ZAMOUSCENKQFHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrochloric acid Chemical compound Cl VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen bromide Chemical compound Br CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- SECXISVLQFMRJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Methylpyrrolidone Chemical compound CN1CCCC1=O SECXISVLQFMRJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- BUGBHKTXTAQXES-UHFFFAOYSA-N Selenium Chemical compound [Se] BUGBHKTXTAQXES-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000004442 acylamino group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- MDFFNEOEWAXZRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminyl Chemical compound [NH2] MDFFNEOEWAXZRQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- IOJUPLGTWVMSFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzothiazole Chemical compound C1=CC=C2SC=NC2=C1 IOJUPLGTWVMSFF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 4
- 150000002148 esters Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000002541 furyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 4
- CTAPFRYPJLPFDF-UHFFFAOYSA-O hydron;1,2-oxazole Chemical compound C=1C=[NH+]OC=1 CTAPFRYPJLPFDF-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 description 4
- ZLTPDFXIESTBQG-UHFFFAOYSA-N isothiazole Chemical compound C=1C=NSC=1 ZLTPDFXIESTBQG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 4
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- LQNUZADURLCDLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N nitrobenzene Chemical compound [O-][N+](=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 LQNUZADURLCDLV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000002244 precipitate Substances 0.000 description 4
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 125000000168 pyrrolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- 125000001544 thienyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 4
- BSKHPKMHTQYZBB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpyridine Chemical compound CC1=CC=CC=N1 BSKHPKMHTQYZBB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- YSDDPNWGLSGZRC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-[bis(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]benzaldehyde Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)C1=CC=C(C=O)C=C1 YSDDPNWGLSGZRC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- NEEMTXNSVJGIHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-chloro-n-[2-[2-(4-chlorobutanoylamino)ethyldisulfanyl]ethyl]butanamide Chemical compound ClCCCC(=O)NCCSSCCNC(=O)CCCCl NEEMTXNSVJGIHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CDIIZULDSLKBKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-chlorobutanoyl chloride Chemical compound ClCCCC(Cl)=O CDIIZULDSLKBKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 206010001488 Aggression Diseases 0.000 description 3
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 3
- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Urea Natural products NC(N)=O XSQUKJJJFZCRTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000016571 aggressive behavior Effects 0.000 description 3
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 125000004429 atom Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- SRSXLGNVWSONIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzenesulfonic acid Chemical compound OS(=O)(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 SRSXLGNVWSONIS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000002619 bicyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromine Substances BrBr GDTBXPJZTBHREO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229910052794 bromium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 description 3
- 239000000460 chlorine Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052801 chlorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009967 direct dyeing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000012039 electrophile Substances 0.000 description 3
- 125000002883 imidazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- LPAGFVYQRIESJQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N indoline Chemical compound C1=CC=C2NCCC2=C1 LPAGFVYQRIESJQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000004184 methoxymethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])OC([H])([H])* 0.000 description 3
- 125000001570 methylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([*:1])[*:2] 0.000 description 3
- SFJGCXYXEFWEBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxazepine Chemical compound O1C=CC=CC=N1 SFJGCXYXEFWEBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 235000021317 phosphate Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 125000003367 polycyclic group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 125000003373 pyrazinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 3
- KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N succinic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCC(O)=O KDYFGRWQOYBRFD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N triflic acid Chemical compound OS(=O)(=O)C(F)(F)F ITMCEJHCFYSIIV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 125000002023 trifluoromethyl group Chemical group FC(F)(F)* 0.000 description 3
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 3
- AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-benzoquinone Chemical compound O=C1C=CC(=O)C=C1 AZQWKYJCGOJGHM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- GFAZBXKENDSJEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,5-dihydroxy-3-methoxy-6-methylcyclohexa-2,5-diene-1,4-dione Chemical compound COC1=C(O)C(=O)C(C)=C(O)C1=O GFAZBXKENDSJEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MNOUPDJZWCCVLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-chloro-n-[2-[2-[(2-chloroacetyl)amino]ethyldisulfanyl]ethyl]acetamide Chemical compound ClCC(=O)NCCSSCCNC(=O)CCl MNOUPDJZWCCVLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OROGUZVNAFJPHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethyl-2H-thiophen-5-one Chemical class CC1SC(=O)C(C)=C1O OROGUZVNAFJPHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 108090000417 Oxygenases Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004020 Oxygenases Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108700020962 Peroxidase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000003992 Peroxidases Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 108091007187 Reductases Proteins 0.000 description 1
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical class OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 108010092464 Urate Oxidase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N [C]1=CC=CC=C1 Chemical compound [C]1=CC=CC=C1 CIUQDSCDWFSTQR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001242 acetic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002535 acidifier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000641 acridinyl group Chemical group C1(=CC=CC2=NC3=CC=CC=C3C=C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000001264 acyl cyanides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000005073 adamantyl group Chemical group C12(CC3CC(CC(C1)C3)C2)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- HFVAFDPGUJEFBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M alizarin red S Chemical compound [Na+].O=C1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C2=C1C=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(O)=C2O HFVAFDPGUJEFBQ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000008044 alkali metal hydroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003113 alkalizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940045714 alkyl sulfonate alkylating agent Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000008052 alkyl sulfonates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000029936 alkylation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005804 alkylation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920013822 aminosilicone Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002178 anthracenyl group Chemical group C1(=CC=CC2=CC3=CC=CC=C3C=C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052786 argon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000005840 aryl radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004104 aryloxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000000751 azo group Chemical group [*]N=N[*] 0.000 description 1
- 229940077388 benzenesulfonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- SRSXLGNVWSONIS-UHFFFAOYSA-M benzenesulfonate Chemical compound [O-]S(=O)(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 SRSXLGNVWSONIS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940092714 benzenesulfonic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000003785 benzimidazolyl group Chemical group N1=C(NC2=C1C=CC=C2)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000003354 benzotriazolyl group Chemical group N1N=NC2=C1C=CC=C2* 0.000 description 1
- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- VYTBDSUNRJYVHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-Hydrojuglone Natural products O=C1CCC(=O)C2=C1C=CC=C2O VYTBDSUNRJYVHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004305 biphenyl Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000000740 bleeding effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011449 brick Substances 0.000 description 1
- FJDQFPXHSGXQBY-UHFFFAOYSA-L caesium carbonate Chemical compound [Cs+].[Cs+].[O-]C([O-])=O FJDQFPXHSGXQBY-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910000024 caesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002843 carboxylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- DGQLVPJVXFOQEV-NGOCYOHBSA-N carminic acid Chemical compound OC1=C2C(=O)C=3C(C)=C(C(O)=O)C(O)=CC=3C(=O)C2=C(O)C(O)=C1[C@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O DGQLVPJVXFOQEV-NGOCYOHBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004106 carminic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940109262 curcumin Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 239000004148 curcumin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000113 cyclohexyl group Chemical group [H]C1([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C1([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- GSPKZYJPUDYKPI-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethoxy sulfate Chemical compound CCOOS(=O)(=O)OOCC GSPKZYJPUDYKPI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940075557 diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VFLDPWHFBUODDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N diferuloylmethane Natural products C1=C(O)C(OC)=CC(C=CC(=O)CC(=O)C=CC=2C=C(OC)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 VFLDPWHFBUODDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004852 dihydrofuranyl group Chemical group O1C(CC=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000005043 dihydropyranyl group Chemical group O1C(CCC=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000004925 dihydropyridyl group Chemical group N1(CC=CC=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000005054 dihydropyrrolyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])N1* 0.000 description 1
- 125000005056 dihydrothiazolyl group Chemical group S1C(NC=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000005057 dihydrothienyl group Chemical group S1C(CC=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000002147 dimethylamino group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])N(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000002270 dispersing agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005530 etching Methods 0.000 description 1
- CCIVGXIOQKPBKL-UHFFFAOYSA-M ethanesulfonate Chemical compound CCS([O-])(=O)=O CCIVGXIOQKPBKL-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- CCIVGXIOQKPBKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethanesulfonic acid Chemical compound CCS(O)(=O)=O CCIVGXIOQKPBKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005448 ethoxyethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])OC([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- VOTNXLNTNMCSTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethyl hydrogen sulfite Chemical compound CCOS(O)=O VOTNXLNTNMCSTJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004672 ethylcarbonyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C(*)=O 0.000 description 1
- 239000000834 fixative Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052731 fluorine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000011737 fluorine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003681 hair reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000026030 halogenation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005658 halogenation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000002367 halogens Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004446 heteroarylalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000004634 hexahydroazepinyl group Chemical group N1(CCCCCC1)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000003840 hydrochlorides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- CSFWPUWCSPOLJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxynaphthoquinone Natural products C1=CC=C2C(=O)C(O)=CC(=O)C2=C1 CSFWPUWCSPOLJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000004693 imidazolium salts Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000004857 imidazopyridinyl group Chemical group N1C(=NC2=C1C=CC=N2)* 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011065 in-situ storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000003453 indazolyl group Chemical group N1N=C(C2=C1C=CC=C2)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000003454 indenyl group Chemical group C1(C=CC2=CC=CC=C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 description 1
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N indigo powder Natural products N1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=C1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011630 iodine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052740 iodine Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000003456 ion exchange resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920003303 ion-exchange polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000005956 isoquinolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001786 isothiazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000002540 isothiocyanates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000842 isoxazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- CXORMDKZEUMQHX-UHFFFAOYSA-N kermesic acid Chemical compound O=C1C2=C(O)C(O)=CC(O)=C2C(=O)C2=C1C=C(O)C(C(O)=O)=C2C CXORMDKZEUMQHX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003893 lactate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- QDLAGTHXVHQKRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N lichenxanthone Natural products COC1=CC(O)=C2C(=O)C3=C(C)C=C(OC)C=C3OC2=C1 QDLAGTHXVHQKRE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005647 linker group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004020 luminiscence type Methods 0.000 description 1
- FMEJKACEWHCCNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N methoxy hydrogen sulfate Chemical compound COOS(O)(=O)=O FMEJKACEWHCCNV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QFUDHWDUKUCCHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl hydrogen sulfite Chemical compound COS(O)=O QFUDHWDUKUCCHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004674 methylcarbonyl group Chemical group CC(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 150000007522 mineralic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002757 morpholinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001624 naphthyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012434 nucleophilic reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001715 oxadiazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 description 1
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002085 persistent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L persulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])OOS(=O)(=O)[O-] JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XRVQTYPOPTUZRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N phenyl hydrogen sulfite Chemical compound OS(=O)OC1=CC=CC=C1 XRVQTYPOPTUZRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003013 phosphoric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004193 piperazinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000003386 piperidinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 1
- XOFYZVNMUHMLCC-ZPOLXVRWSA-N prednisone Chemical compound O=C1C=C[C@]2(C)[C@H]3C(=O)C[C@](C)([C@@](CC4)(O)C(=O)CO)[C@@H]4[C@@H]3CCC2=C1 XOFYZVNMUHMLCC-ZPOLXVRWSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003141 primary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- WDGFFVCWBZVLCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N purpurogallin Chemical compound C1=CC=C(O)C(=O)C2=C1C=C(O)C(O)=C2O WDGFFVCWBZVLCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002098 pyridazinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003222 pyridines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000714 pyrimidinyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000005493 quinolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000376 reactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000001044 red dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008237 rinsing water Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003352 sequestering agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium persulfate Substances [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052938 sodium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000011152 sodium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NGDIAZZSCVVCEW-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium;butyl sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].CCCCOS([O-])(=O)=O NGDIAZZSCVVCEW-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000007858 starting material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003335 steric effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000003890 succinate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000001384 succinic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003774 sulfhydryl reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004763 sulfides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003467 sulfuric acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000006228 supernatant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003892 tartrate salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000003718 tetrahydrofuranyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001712 tetrahydronaphthyl group Chemical group C1(CCCC2=CC=CC=C12)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000001412 tetrahydropyranyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000003554 tetrahydropyrrolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000003507 tetrahydrothiofenyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000005247 tetrazinyl group Chemical group N1=NN=NC(=C1)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000001113 thiadiazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003567 thiocyanates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000003396 thiol group Chemical group [H]S* 0.000 description 1
- 150000007944 thiolates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000005413 thiopyridyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000005490 tosylate group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001425 triazolyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000391 vinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])=C([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002888 zwitterionic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- C09B—ORGANIC DYES OR CLOSELY-RELATED COMPOUNDS FOR PRODUCING DYES, e.g. PIGMENTS; MORDANTS; LAKES
- C09B23/00—Methine or polymethine dyes, e.g. cyanine dyes
- C09B23/14—Styryl dyes
- C09B23/145—Styryl dyes the ethylene chain carrying an heterocyclic residue, e.g. heterocycle-CH=CH-C6H5
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4926—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4933—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having sulfur as an exocyclic substituent, e.g. pyridinethione
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
Definitions
- the invention relates to the dyeing of keratin materials using styryl hydroxy (cyclo) alkylamino thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes.
- the direct dyes which are conventionally used are, for example, dyes of the nitrobenzene type, anthraquinone dyes, nitropyridines, dyes of the azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane type.
- the coloring of the keratinous fibers from these conventional direct dyes does not make it possible to significantly lighten the keratin fibers.
- a chemical bleaching process is used.
- This method consists in treating the keratinous fibers, such as the hair, with a strong oxidizing system, generally consisting of hydrogen peroxide associated or not with persalts, most often in an alkaline medium.
- This bleaching system has the disadvantage of degrading the keratinous fibers, and altering their cosmetic properties.
- the fibers tend to become rough, more difficult to disentangle and more fragile.
- the lightening or the bleaching of keratinous fibers by oxidizing agents is incompatible with the treatments for modifying the shape of said fibers, particularly in the straightening treatments.
- Another lightening technique consists in applying fluorescent direct dyes to dark hair. This technique described in particular in the documents WO 03/028685 , WO 2004/091473 allows to respect the quality of the keratinous fiber during the treatment. However, these fluorescent direct dyes do not have a satisfactory tenacity vis-à-vis the external agents.
- disulfide dyes in particular dyes with chromophore aza-imidazoliums
- WO 2005/097051 or EP 1647580 and pyridinium / indolinium-styryl chromophore dyes in patent applications WO 2006/134043 and WO 2006/136617 .
- the object of the present invention is to provide novel systems for dyeing keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, which do not have the drawbacks of existing bleaching processes.
- Another object of the invention is to color chromatically and remanent vis-à-vis the external aggressions keratin materials.
- the invention also aims to provide compounds dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair with a low selectivity of coloration between the root and the tip, whether on natural or permed fibers.
- Another subject of the invention is a dyeing composition
- a dyeing composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic medium, at least one thiol / disulfide fluorescent dye (I) as defined above, and optionally a reducing agent.
- the invention also relates to new thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) .
- the dyeing process according to the invention makes it possible to visibly stain dark keratin materials, in particular dark human keratin fibers, especially the dark hair.
- the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a coloration of the keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, without degrading said material, which is persistent with respect to shampoos, of the common aggressions (sun, perspiration). , and other hair treatments.
- the process of the invention also makes it possible to obtain a lightening of keratin materials such as keratinous fibers, particularly dark keratinous fibers and more particularly dark hair.
- the new dyes according to the invention have a very satisfactory photostability and chemical stability. These dyes are soluble in cosmetic media suitable for hair dyes and especially in water / ethanol mixtures. They make it possible to extend the accessible color range (yellow, orange, red dyes) while leaving the possibility of stripping the obtained colorings.
- the dyes of formula (I) color after application on keratin fibers chromatically and remanent vis-à-vis the external aggressions keratin materials with a low selectivity of coloration between the root and the tip, and on different types of fibers.
- the term naturally or artificially dark hair hair whose pitch is less than or equal to 6 (dark blonde) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut).
- the lightening of the hair is evaluated by the variation of "pitch” before and after application of the compound of formula (I) .
- tone is based on the classification of natural nuances, a tone separating each nuance from that which follows or immediately precedes it. This definition and the classification of natural shades is well known to hair professionals and published in the book “Science of hair treatments” by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed Masson, p. 215 and 278 .
- Heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), a unit corresponding to a tone; the higher the number, the clearer the nuance.
- An artificially colored hair is a hair whose color has been modified by a coloring treatment, for example a coloration with direct dyes or oxidation dyes.
- the term "bleached hair” means hair whose pitch is greater than 6 and preferably greater than 7.
- the term "stripping" of the coloration of keratin fibers is a process that involves the application of a chemical or physical stimulus capable of bringing the hair back to its original color.
- the etching may be obtained by applying an oxidizing composition based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium persulfate, potassium or ammonium, at a moderately alkaline pH, ie between 7 and 12, preferably between 8 and 10.5.
- One means for measuring the lightening effect provided to the hair after application of the fluorescent dyes of the invention is to use the hair reflectance phenomenon.
- the composition should, after application to dark hair bring to the results below.
- the reflectance curves are then compared as a function of the wavelength, of the hair treated with the composition of the invention and of the untreated hair.
- the curve corresponding to the treated hair must show a reflectance in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers higher than the curve corresponding to untreated hair. This means that, in the wavelength range of 540 to 700 nanometers, there is at least one range where the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair is greater than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair.
- the term "superior” means a difference of at least 0.05% reflectance, and preferably at least 0.1%. This does not prevent that there may exist in the wavelength range from 540 to 700 nanometers, at least one range where the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair is superimposable, or less than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair.
- the wavelength where the difference is greatest between the reflectance curve of the treated hair and that of the untreated hair is in the wavelength range of 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometers.
- One of the objects of the invention relates to thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) .
- the thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) are compounds capable of absorbing in UV or visible radiation at a wavelength ⁇ abs of between 250 and 800 nm and capable of reemitting in the visible range to a length emission wave ⁇ em between 400 and 800 nm.
- the fluorescent compounds of formula (I) of the invention are dyes capable of absorbing in the visible ⁇ abs between 400 and 800 nm and reemitting in the visible ⁇ em between 400 and 800 nm. More preferentially, the dyes of formula (I) are dyes capable of absorbing at an ⁇ abs of between 420 nm and 550 nm and of reemitting in the visible at an ⁇ em of between 470 and 600 nm.
- the thiol fluorescent compounds of the invention of formula (I) for which m and n are 1, contain a SY function which may be in the covalent -SY or ionic -S - Y + form depending on the nature of Y and the pH middle.
- the compounds of the invention contain several ions against anionic An -, against said ions may be the same or different.
- One particular mode relates to thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (II) for which m and n are 1, with SY function where Y represents a hydrogen atom, or an alkali metal.
- Y represents a hydrogen atom.
- the protected thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (I) for which m and n are equal to 1 contain a group Y i) cationic aromatic 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from oxygen , sulfur and nitrogen, such as oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, tetrazinium, oxazepinium, thiepinyl, thiepinium, imidazolium; ii) cationic 8 to 11-membered bicyclic heteroaryl such as indolinium, benzoimidazolium, be
- the disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) when n is 2 and m is 0 have an axis of symmetry C2 between the two sulfur atoms of the central disulfide radical.
- fluorescent dyes belonging to the following formulas (I), (Ia) or (Ib): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 with An - representing an anionic counterion.
- Protected thiol dyes of formula (II ') can be synthesized in two stages.
- the second step of protecting the thiol function according to conventional methods known to those skilled in the art to lead to protected thiol dyes of formula (II ') .
- the methods of the structures can be used "Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis", TW Greene, John Willey & Sons ed., NY, 1981, pp.193-217 ; "Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005, chap. 5 .
- Met * represents an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, particularly sodium or potassium, it being understood that when the metal is an alkaline earth metal 2 thiolate-functional chromophores-S - may be associated with 1 Metal 2+ .
- R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , m, n, G and An - are as defined above;
- a protected thiol compound (b) can be reacted with a protective group Y 'as defined previously prepared according to one of the procedures described in the works cited above, said protected thiol compound comprising at least one nucleophilic function with a a sufficient amount, preferably equimolar, of a "reactive fluorescent chromophore” or a compound comprising such a "reactive fluorescent chromophore” (a) .
- (a) comprises an electrophilic function for forming a covalent bond ⁇ as can be schematized below in the preparation of fluorescent dyes of formula (II'a) , sub-set of fluorescent dyes (II '): with R 1 , R 2 , Y 'and An - are as defined above; R ' 1 , R' 2 , R ' 3 , R' 4 representing C 1 -C 4 alkyl chains optionally substituted by a carboxylic acid group, a carboxylic acid salt, an ester function, or a hydrogen group, m and n integers between 1 and 4, Nu representing a nucleophilic group of amine type; E representing an electrophilic group; and ⁇ the linking group generated after nucleophilic attack on the electrophile.
- bonds that can be generated are listed in the table below from the condensation of electrophiles with nucleophiles: Electrophiles E Nucleophiles Naked Covalent bonds ⁇ Esters activated * amines carboxamides Acyl azides amines carboxamides Acyl halogenation amines carboxamides Acyl cyanides amines carboxamides anhydrides amines carboxamides Carboxylic acids amines carboxamides * activated esters of general formula -CO-Part with Part representing a leaving group such as oxysuccinimidyl, oxybenzotriazolyl, optionally substituted aryloxy;
- a thiol reagent ( ⁇ ) : Y'-SH comprising a group Y 'as defined previously, whose nucleophilic function SH can react on the carbon atom alpha of the halogen atom carried by a chromophore fluorescent to lead to the protected thiol fluorescent dye of formula (II ') : with R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , Z, Y ', (II') and An - are as defined above, and Hal represents a nucleofugal halogen atom such as bromine, iodine or chlorine.
- S C (NRR) NRR
- thiourea C (NRR) NRR
- the reaction scheme is as follows: with R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , Z, Hal and An are as defined above, R ' c and R' d representing C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups ; (II "") representing a dye under a set of formula (II ')
- Another variant may make it possible to access certain compounds (II ') from cyclic thiourea of imidazoline type ( b ') , followed by the alkylation of said imidazoline using R ' d -Gp with Gp group.
- starting material such as chloride, bromide, tosylate, mesylate: with R 1, R 2, R 3, Z, R 'c, R' d, (II), Hal and An- are as defined above.
- certain protected thiols fluorescent dyes can be obtained by reacting a protected thiol compound with a compound carrying an activated carboxylic acid function according to conventional methods (for example reaction with a carbodiimide or with thionyl chloride).
- the resulting product (d) is then reacted with a fluorescent chromophore carrying a nucleophilic function (c) , primary or secondary amine type.
- R 1, R 2, R 'c, R' d An-, R '1, R' 2, R '3, R' 4, Y ', m, n, E, and Nu (II'a) as defined previously.
- a synthetic variant is to combine the first route, ie from two equivalents of the nucleophilic reagent (c) with a disulfide dielectrophile reactant (i). It is possible to generate the dichromophoric disulfide product (I) after condensation. the latter can be reduced to form the heterocyclic fluorescent thiol dye (II "a) which in turn can either be protected to form the protected thiol fluorescent dye (II'a) or be metallized with an alkali metal to yield the fluorescent dye metallocyclic heterocyclic thiol (II '''a) :
- the protected thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (II ') can be obtained by reaction of a compound having a thiol group protected by a group Y', and a leaving group Gp, such as a grouping halogens (chlorine, bromine) or a previously activated hydroxy group in nucleofugal leaving group such as, for example, mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide with a styrylpyridine chromophore (c ') .
- a leaving group Gp such as a grouping halogens (chlorine, bromine) or a previously activated hydroxy group in nucleofugal leaving group such as, for example, mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide
- a styrylpyridine chromophore (c ') With R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , Z, Y ', (II') and are as defined above.
- the thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (I) according to the invention can be obtained by reaction of a compound comprising a group thiol protected by a group Y as defined above and an electrophilic group (f) with a pyridinium compound comprising a nucleophilic group.
- a compound comprising a group thiol protected by a group Y as defined above and an electrophilic group (f) with a pyridinium compound comprising a nucleophilic group.
- This reaction is commonly known as "Knoevenagel" condensation.
- activated methylenes are meant those having in position 2 or 4 of the pyridinium group a methylene group CH 3 -: with R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , Z, Y 'An - as defined above and G' representing an oxygen or sulfur atom.
- the thiol fluorescent dyes formed can be converted to protected thiol stain -SY 'by protecting the thiol -SH using conventional protecting groups.
- the thiol fluorescent dyes are metallated using also the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art such as those described in US Pat. Advanced Organic Chemistry, "Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures," J. March, 4th Ed, John Willey & Sons, NY, 1992 .
- Protected thiol dyes can be deprotected by conventional routes such as those described in the literature "Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis,” TW Greene, John Willey & Sons ed., NY, 1981 ; “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005 .
- the starting reagents are commercial or accessible by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art.
- Gp representing a leaving group nucleofuge, such as mesylate, tosylate, triflate or halide.
- the counter ions Gp - compounds (I ') above may be replaced by counter-ions An - other natures from methods known to those skilled in the art including ion exchange resin.
- the thiol fluorescent dyes formed can be converted to protected thiol stain -SY 'by protecting the thiol -SH using conventional protecting groups.
- the thiol fluorescent dyes are metallated using also the conventional methods known to those skilled in the art such as those described in US Pat. Advanced Organic Chemistry, "Reactions, Mechanisms and Structures," J. March, 4th Ed, John Willey & Sons, NY, 1992 .
- Protected thiol dyes can be deprotected by conventional routes such as those described in the literature "Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis,” TW Greene, John Willey & Sons ed., NY, 1981 ; “Protecting Groups”, P. Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005 .
- Another subject of the invention relates to a dyeing composition for dyeing keratin materials which contains at least one thiol / disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I) .
- the composition of the invention may also contain a reducing agent.
- This reducing agent may be chosen from thiols, for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulphite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid, and its esters, in particular glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
- thiols for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulphite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid, and its esters, in particular glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
- This reducing agent may also be chosen from borohydrides and their derivatives, such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catechol borane.
- borohydrides and their derivatives such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catechol borane.
- the dye composition useful in the invention generally contains a quantity of fluorescent dye of formula (I) of between 0.001% and 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this amount is between 0.005 and 20% by weight and even more preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the dye composition may further contain additional direct dyes.
- These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitro-benzene direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, neutral or acidic or cationic quinone dyes, in particular neutral anthraquinone dyes and direct azine dyes. , triarylmethane direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
- the dye composition may contain one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.
- oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
- couplers there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
- the coupler or couplers are each generally present in an amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%.
- the oxidation base (s) present in the dyeing composition are in general present each in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight.
- addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
- an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates
- a base such as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
- the medium suitable for dyeing is a cosmetic medium generally consisting of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent.
- organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the solvents other than water when they are present are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approx.
- the solvents including water are present, preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 99% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 95% by weight approximately.
- the composition of the invention contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the keratin and / or disulphide of the fluorescent dyes of formula (I).
- This reducing agent is as defined above.
- the dye composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers.
- adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers.
- inorganic or organic thickeners and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or otherwise, such as aminosilicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, conductive polymers.
- the adjuvants above are generally present in an amount included for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- the pH of the dyeing composition is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 11 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
- acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
- mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
- alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and following formula ( ⁇ ): wherein W a is a propylene residue optionally substituted by a hydroxy group or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; R a1, R a2, R a3 and R a4, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl or C 1 -C 4.
- the dye composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquid, cream, gel, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular hair.
- Another subject of the invention is a method for dyeing keratinous material comprising applying to said materials a composition comprising at least one dye of formula (I).
- a reducing agent may also be applied as a pre-treatment before the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I).
- This reducing agent may be chosen from thiols, for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulfite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid and its esters, especially the glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
- thiols for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulfite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid and its esters, especially the glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol.
- This reducing agent may also be chosen from borohydrides and their derivatives, such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra-n-butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catecholborane.
- borohydrides and their derivatives such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra-n-butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catecholborane.
- This pretreatment may be of short duration, especially from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes with a reducing agent as mentioned above.
- the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) and also contains at least one reducing agent as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.
- the process of the invention may be preceded by a deprotection step aimed at restoring the SH function in situ .
- Y protective group protection alkylcarbonyl, pH> 9 arylcarbonyl, pH> 9 alkoxycarbonyl, pH> 9 aryloxycarbonyl, pH> 9 aralkoxycarbonyl pH> 9 (Di) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl, pH> 9 (Alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl pH> 9 optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl, pH> 9 5-, 6-, or 7-membered monocyclic heteroaryl such as oxazolium; pH> 9 8 to 11-membered bicyclic heteroaryl such as benzoimidazolium, or benzoxazolium pH> 9
- the deprotection step may also be carried out during a hair pretreatment step such as, for example, the hair reduction pretreatment.
- the reducing agent is added to the dyeing composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) at the time of use.
- the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of Formula (I) also contains at least one reducing agent as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.
- the reducing agent is applied in post-treatment, after the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I).
- the duration of the post-treatment with the reducing agent may be short, for example from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, with a reducing agent as described above.
- the reducing agent is a thiol or borohydride type agent as described above.
- a particular embodiment of the invention relates to a process in which the fluorescent dye of formula (I) can be applied directly to hair without reducing agents, free of pre or post-treatment reducers.
- a treatment with an oxidizing agent may optionally be associated.
- Any type of conventional oxidizing agent may be used in the art. Thus, it may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulphates, as well as the enzymes among which may be mentioned peroxidases, oxides, 2-electron reductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases.
- the use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.
- This oxidizing agent may be applied to the fibers before or after the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I).
- a particular embodiment of the invention relates to the method of the invention comprising an additional step which consists in applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing agent.
- the application of the dye composition according to the invention is generally carried out at room temperature. It can however be carried out at temperatures ranging from 20 to 180 ° C.
- the invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) and a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable of reducing disulfide functions of the keratin materials and / or disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I), when n is 2 and m is 0.
- One of these compartments may further contain one or more other dyes of direct dye type or oxidation dye.
- a multi-compartment device in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I); a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable to reduce the disulfide bond of the keratin materials and / or the disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I) when n is 2 and m is 0; a third compartment contains an oxidizing agent.
- Each of the devices mentioned above may be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in the patent. FR2 586 913 .
- Step 1 Synthesis of N, N '- (disulfanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (2-chloroacetamide)
- cystamine dihydrochloride 40.3 g are dissolved in 100 ml of water, 32 ml of 35% sodium hydroxide are added (pH 9.7) and the temperature is lowered to 5 °. 33.5 ml of chloroacetyl chloride are introduced dropwise, keeping the temperature below 10 ° C and maintaining the pH between 7.9 and 9.3 by adding sodium hydroxide. The medium is kept stirred at room temperature for 2 h. The precipitate is filtered, washed with 5 ⁇ 150 ml of water and then dried under vacuum in the presence of P 2 O 5 . 35.3 g of white powder are collected. the analyzes indicate that the product is compliant.
- Step 2 Synthesis of 1,1 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (2-oxoethane-2,1-diyl)] ⁇ bis (4-methylpyridinium) dichloride
- Step 3 Synthesis of 1,1 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (2-oxoethane-2,1-diyl)] ⁇ bis [4- (2- ⁇ 4- bis-2- dichloride hydroxyethyl) amino] phenyl ⁇ vinyl) pyridinium] [1]
- Example 2 1,1 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (2-oxoethane-2,1-diyl)] ⁇ bis (4- ⁇ 2- [4- (3-hydroxypyrrolidin-1-dichloride) yl) phenyl] vinyl ⁇ pyridinium)
- Step 1 Synthesis of N , N '- (disulfanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (4-chlorobutanamide)
- cystamine hydrochloride 60 g of cystamine hydrochloride are solubilized in 500 ml and cooled to 5 ° C.
- the pH of 10 is reached by the addition of NaOH (30% aq.).
- To a solution of 4-chlorobutanoyl chloride (105 g) in anhydrous THF (500 ml) is added dropwise aq. NaOH (30%) so as to maintain the pH around 7.
- the aqueous phase is extracted with 3 ⁇ 500 m of dichloromethane combined with the THF phase and then dried over Na 2 SO 4 sodium sulphate. After filtration and drying, 41 g of white powder is collected. The analyzes are in agreement with the expected product.
- Step 2 Synthesis of 1,1 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)] ⁇ bis (4-methylpyridinium) dichloride
- Step 3 Synthesis of 2,2 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl) pyridinium-1,4-diylethene-2,1-diylbenzene-4.1 diacetate diyl (methylimino)] ⁇
- the mixture is cooled to room temperature, then it is poured into 1.4 L of acetone. A precipitate is formed then.
- the latter is filtered under argon, washed 3 times with 170 mL of acetone and dried.
- the resulting solid is dispersed in 400 mL of isopropanol and 400 mL of water and 1.2L of acetone are added.
- the residual oil is dissolved in 50 mL of methanol and 750 mL of acetone is added.
- a sticky light brown oil is triturated with 500 mL of acetone, filtered and dried. 20.5 g of black powder are collected. The analyzes are consistent with the expected product structure.
- Step 1 Synthesis of 1,1 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)] ⁇ bis (2-methyl-pyridinium) dichloride
- N , N '- (disulphanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (4-chlorobutanamide) are dispersed in 0.5 mL of N-methylpyrrolidinone and 2.5 mL of acetonitrile, and then heated at 50 ° C. 0.71 mL of picoline is then added and the reaction mixture is stirred for 5 days at 50 ° C. A few milligrams of cesium carbonate and 0.35 mL of 2-picoline are added. After 1 day at 65 ° C, the reaction mixture is poured into 50 mL of acetonitrile.
- Step 2 Synthesis of 2,2 '- ⁇ disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl) pyridinium-1,2-diylethene-2,1-diylbenzene-4.1 diacetate diyl (methylimino)] ⁇
- compositions A (9 ml) and B (1 ml) are mixed, and then the formulas are applied to strands of natural white hair, 90% white (BN), permanent white (BP) or dark hair. of pitch 4 (HT4).
- the exposure time is 20 minutes at room temperature TA.
- a fixative (Dulcia Vital II®) diluted by 10 with water is applied for 5 minutes at RT. After rinsing with running water and shampoo, the locks are air-dried. The dark hair thus treated is brightened: the HT4 lock has become visually clearer than untreated control locks. The locks of white hair are colored with intense shades.
- the treated locks are washed by a series of 24 shampoos. It is observed that the foam shampoos is not or very little color and that the color does not fade over time on the locks BN and BP. The lightening effect also remains intact.
- compositions according to the invention were expressed as a function of the reflectance of the hair. These reflectances are compared to the reflectance of a lock of untreated HT4 pitch hair.
- the reflectance is measured using a KONIKA-MINOLTA®, CM 3600d spectrophotocolorimeter and after irradiation of the hair with visible light in the wavelength range of 400 to 700 nanometers.
- the reflectance of a lock of hair treated with a composition according to the invention is greater than that of untreated hair.
- the reflectance of the strands treated with the dye [1] is significantly higher than that of the reference wick in the wavelength range greater than 580 nm.
- the locks treated with this compound therefore appear clearer. It is also noted that the effect is perfectly preserved after 24 shampoos.
- the color of the locks was evaluated in the L * a * b * system using a MINOLTA® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (Illuminant D65).
- L * a * b * L * represents the brightness
- a * indicates the green / red color axis
- b * the blue / yellow color axis.
- the higher the L value the lighter or less intense the color.
- the lower the value of L the darker or more intense the color.
- the higher the value of a * the higher the shade is red and the higher the value of b * the hue is yellow.
- L *, a * and b * represent the values measured before staining and L 0 *, a 0 * and b 0 * represent the measured values before staining (or shampooing).
- the natural white and permed white hair is colored bright orange red. The values change very little after the shampoos, given the number of successive shampoos.
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Abstract
Description
L'invention concerne la coloration de matières kératiniques à l'aide de colorants fluorescents styryl hydroxy(cyclo)alkylamino thiols/disulfures.The invention relates to the dyeing of keratin materials using styryl hydroxy (cyclo) alkylamino thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes.
Il est connu de teindre les fibres kératiniques, notamment humaines, par une coloration directe. Le procédé classiquement utilisé en coloration directe consiste à appliquer sur les fibres kératiniques des colorants directs qui sont des molécules colorées et colorantes ayant une affinité pour les fibres, à les laisser diffuser, puis à rincer les fibres.It is known to dye keratinous fibers, especially human fibers, by direct dyeing. The method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and dyeing molecules having an affinity for the fibers, allowing them to diffuse and then rinsing the fibers.
Les colorants directs qui sont classiquement utilisés sont par exemple des colorants du type nitrés benzéniques, des colorants anthraquinoniques, des nitropyridines, des colorants du type azoïque, xanthénique, acridinique, azinique ou triarylméthane.The direct dyes which are conventionally used are, for example, dyes of the nitrobenzene type, anthraquinone dyes, nitropyridines, dyes of the azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane type.
La coloration des fibres kératiniques à partir de ces colorants directs classiques ne permet pas d'éclaircir de façon notable les fibres kératiniques.The coloring of the keratinous fibers from these conventional direct dyes does not make it possible to significantly lighten the keratin fibers.
L'éclaircissement de la couleur de fibres kératiniques foncées vers des nuances plus claires, en modifiant éventuellement la nuance de celles-ci, constitue une demande importante.The lightening of the color of dark keratin fibers to lighter shades, possibly modifying the shade of these, constitutes an important demand.
Classiquement, pour obtenir une coloration plus claire, on met en oeuvre un procédé de décoloration chimique. Ce procédé consiste à traiter les fibres kératiniques, telles que les cheveux, par un système oxydant fort, généralement constitué par du peroxyde d'hydrogène associé ou non à des persels, le plus souvent en milieu alcalin.Conventionally, to obtain a lighter color, a chemical bleaching process is used. This method consists in treating the keratinous fibers, such as the hair, with a strong oxidizing system, generally consisting of hydrogen peroxide associated or not with persalts, most often in an alkaline medium.
Ce système de décoloration présente l'inconvénient de dégrader les fibres kératiniques, et d'altérer leurs propriétés cosmétiques. Les fibres ont en effet tendance à devenir rêches, plus difficilement démêlables et plus fragiles. Enfin, l'éclaircissement ou la décoloration de fibres kératiniques par des agents oxydants est incompatible avec les traitements de modification de la forme desdites fibres, particulièrement dans les traitements de défrisage.This bleaching system has the disadvantage of degrading the keratinous fibers, and altering their cosmetic properties. The fibers tend to become rough, more difficult to disentangle and more fragile. Finally, the lightening or the bleaching of keratinous fibers by oxidizing agents is incompatible with the treatments for modifying the shape of said fibers, particularly in the straightening treatments.
Une autre technique d'éclaircissement consiste à appliquer sur les cheveux foncés des colorants directs fluorescents. Cette technique décrite notamment dans les documents
Pour augmenter la ténacité des colorations directes, il est connu d'utiliser des colorants disulfures notamment colorants à chromophore aza-imidazoliums dans les demandes de brevet
Le but de la présente invention est de fournir de nouveaux systèmes de coloration de matières kératiniques en particulier les fibres kératiniques humaines, notamment les cheveux, qui ne présentent pas les inconvénients des procédés de décoloration existants.The object of the present invention is to provide novel systems for dyeing keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, which do not have the drawbacks of existing bleaching processes.
Particulièrement, un but de l'invention est de fournir des systèmes de coloration directe permettant d'obtenir des effets éclaircissants notamment sur des fibres kératiniques naturellement ou artificiellement foncées, tenaces face à des shampooings successifs, qui ne dégradent pas les fibres kératiniques et qui n'altèrent pas leurs propriétés cosmétiques.In particular, it is an object of the invention to provide direct dyeing systems which make it possible to obtain lightening effects, in particular on naturally or artificially dark keratin fibers, which are stubborn in the face of successive shampoos, which do not degrade keratin fibers and which do not degrade. do not alter their cosmetic properties.
Un autre but de l'invention est de colorer de façon chromatique et rémanente vis-à-vis des agressions extérieures les matières kératiniques. L'invention vise également à mettre à disposition des composés colorant les fibres kératiniques telles que les cheveux avec une faible sélectivité de coloration entre la racine et la pointe, que ce soit sur fibres naturelles ou permanentées.Another object of the invention is to color chromatically and remanent vis-à-vis the external aggressions keratin materials. The invention also aims to provide compounds dyeing keratinous fibers such as hair with a low selectivity of coloration between the root and the tip, whether on natural or permed fibers.
Ces buts sont atteints avec la présente invention qui a pour objet un procédé de coloration de matières kératiniques, en particulier les fibres kératiniques, notamment humaines telles que les cheveux, plus particulièrement les cheveux foncés, consistant à appliquer sur les matières kératiniques, une composition tinctoriale, comprenant dans un milieu cosmétique approprié, au moins un colorant fluorescent disulfure ou thiol, choisi parmi les colorants de formule (I) :
- R1 , représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C6 substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ou -C(O)OR' avec R' représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou alors un groupe -C(O)-O- et dans ce dernier cas un contre ion anionique An- est absent, particulièrement R1 représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C6 substitué par ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle et plus spécifiquement par un seul groupe hydroxyle ;
- R2 , représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C6 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ;
- ou alors les groupements R1 et R2 forment ensemble avec l'atome d'azote qui les portent un radical hétérocyclique saturé substitué au moins par un groupement hydroxyle, (poly)hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyle, et/ou -C(O)OR' avec R' représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou alors un groupe -C(O)-O- et dans ce cas un contre ion anionique An- est absent, ; tel que pyrrolidinyle et pipéridyle ;
- R3 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupement -C(O)OR" avec R" représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un métal alcalin, un groupement alkyle en C1-C6 ou alors R3 représente un groupe -C(O)-O- et dans ce cas un contre-ion anionique An- est absent ;
- Z représente un groupe divalent amido -C(O)-N(R)-, -N(R)-C(O)-, ou un groupe divalent alkylène en C1-C10 interrompu par un groupe amido -C(O)-N(R)-, -N(R)-C(O)-tel que -(CH2)n'-C(O)-N(R)-(CH2)p-, -(CH2)n"-N(R)-C(O)-(CH2)p-, avec n' représentant un entier compris inclusivement entre 0 et 3, préférentiellement n' vaut 0, 2, 3 ; p représentant un entier compris inclusivement entre 0 et 4, n" représentant un entier compris inclusivement entre 0 et 3 et notamment n'=n"=p=0 et R représentant un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkyle en C1-C6 ;
- n vaut 1 ou 2 ;
- m vaut 0 ou 1 ;
- An- représente un contre ion anionique ;
- Y représente : i) un atome d'hydrogène, ii) un métal alcalin, iii) un métal alcalino-terreux, iv) un groupe ammonium : N+RαRβRγRδ, un groupe phosphonium : P+RαRβRγRδ avec Rα, Rβ, Rγ et Rδ, identiques ou différents, représentant un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe (C1-C4)alkyle, ou v) un groupe protecteur de fonction thiol ; étant entendu que :
- la liaison entre le cycle pyridinium et la double liaison du groupe styryle est positionnée en position 2 ou 4 du pyridinium ;
- lorsque n=1, m=1 alors Y = H ou groupe protecteur de la fonction thiol et lorsque n=2, alors m=0
- lorsque le composé de formule (I) contient d'autres parties cationiques, il se trouve associé à un ou plusieurs contre-ions anioniques permettant d'atteindre l'électroneutralité de la formule (I).
- R 1 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups or -C (O) OR 'with R' representing a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a -C (O) -O group - and in the latter case anionic counterion An - is absent, particularly R 1 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and more specifically by a single hydroxyl group ;
- R 2 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;
- or else the groups R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom carrying them form a saturated heterocyclic radical substituted at least by a group hydroxyl, (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl, and / or -C (O) OR 'with R' representing a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a -C group (O) -O- and in this case an anionic counterion An - is absent,; such as pyrrolidinyl and piperidyl;
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a -C (O) OR "group with R" representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or R 3 represents a -C group (O) -O- and in this case an anionic counterion An - is absent;
- Z represents a divalent amido group -C (O) -N (R) -, -N (R) -C (O) -, or a divalent group C 1 -C 10 alkylene interrupted by an amido group -C (O ) -N (R) -, -N (R) -C (O) -that - (CH 2 ) n ' -C (O) -N (R) - (CH 2 ) p -, - (CH 2 ) n " -N (R) -C (O) - (CH 2 ) p -, where n 'is an integer between 0 and 3, preferably n' is 0, 2, 3, p is an integer inclusive between 0 and 4, n "representing an integer inclusive between 0 and 3 and in particular n '= n" = p = 0 and R representing a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group;
- n is 1 or 2;
- m is 0 or 1;
- An - represents anionic counterion;
- Y represents: i) a hydrogen atom, ii) an alkali metal, iii) an alkaline earth metal, iv) an ammonium group: N + R α R β R γ R δ , a phosphonium group: P + R α R β R γ R δ with R α , R β , R γ and R δ , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group, or v) a protecting group of thiol function ; Being heard that :
- the bond between the pyridinium ring and the double bond of the styryl group is positioned in position 2 or 4 of the pyridinium;
- when n = 1, m = 1 then Y = H or protecting group of the thiol function and when n = 2, then m = 0
- when the compound of formula (I) contains other cationic parts, it is associated with one or more anionic counter-ions making it possible to reach the electroneutrality of formula (I) .
Un autre objet de l'invention est une composition tinctoriale comprenant, dans un milieu cosmétique approprié au moins un colorant fluorescent thiol/disulfure (I) tel que défini précédemment, et éventuellement un agent réducteur.Another subject of the invention is a dyeing composition comprising, in a suitable cosmetic medium, at least one thiol / disulfide fluorescent dye (I) as defined above, and optionally a reducing agent.
L'invention a aussi pour objet de nouveaux colorants fluorescents thiols/disulfures de formule (I).The invention also relates to new thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) .
Le procédé de coloration selon l'invention permet de colorer de façon visible les matières kératiniques foncées, en particulier les fibres kératiniques humaines foncées, notamment les cheveux foncés.The dyeing process according to the invention makes it possible to visibly stain dark keratin materials, in particular dark human keratin fibers, especially the dark hair.
De plus le procédé de l'invention permet d'obtenir une coloration des matières kératiniques en particulier les fibres kératiniques humaines, notamment les cheveux, sans dégrader ladite matière, rémanente vis-à-vis de shampooings, des agressions courantes (soleil, transpiration), et des autres traitements capillaires. Le procédé de l'invention permet également d'obtenir un éclaircissement des matières kératiniques telles que les fibres kératiniques particulièrement les fibres kératiniques foncées et plus particulièrement les cheveux foncés.In addition, the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a coloration of the keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, without degrading said material, which is persistent with respect to shampoos, of the common aggressions (sun, perspiration). , and other hair treatments. The process of the invention also makes it possible to obtain a lightening of keratin materials such as keratinous fibers, particularly dark keratinous fibers and more particularly dark hair.
Les nouveaux colorants selon l'invention présentent une photostabilité et une stabilité chimique très satisfaisantes. Ces colorants sont solubles dans les milieux cosmétiques appropriés aux teintures capillaires et tout particulièrement dans les mélanges eau/éthanol. Ils permettent d'étendre la gamme colorielle accessible (colorants jaunes, oranges, rouges) tout en laissant la possibilité de décaper les colorations obtenues.The new dyes according to the invention have a very satisfactory photostability and chemical stability. These dyes are soluble in cosmetic media suitable for hair dyes and especially in water / ethanol mixtures. They make it possible to extend the accessible color range (yellow, orange, red dyes) while leaving the possibility of stripping the obtained colorings.
Les colorants de formule (I) colorent après application sur fibres kératiniques de façon chromatique et rémanente vis-à-vis des agressions extérieures les matières kératiniques avec une faible sélectivité de coloration entre la racine et la pointe, et sur différents types de fibres.The dyes of formula (I) color after application on keratin fibers chromatically and remanent vis-à-vis the external aggressions keratin materials with a low selectivity of coloration between the root and the tip, and on different types of fibers.
Au sens de l'invention, on entend par matière kératinique foncée celle qui présente une luminescence L* chiffrée dans le système C.I.E. L*a*b*, inférieure ou égale à 45 et de préférence inférieure ou égale à 40, sachant par ailleurs que L*=0 équivaut au noir et L*=100 au blanc.For the purposes of the invention, dark keratin material is understood to mean that which has an L * luminescence in the C.I.E. L * a * b *, less than or equal to 45 and preferably less than or equal to 40, knowing moreover that L * = 0 is equivalent to black and L * = 100 to white.
Au sens de l'invention, on entend par cheveux naturellement ou artificiellement foncés, des cheveux dont la hauteur de ton est inférieure ou égale à 6 (blond foncé) et de préférence inférieure ou égale à 4 (châtain).For the purposes of the invention, the term naturally or artificially dark hair, hair whose pitch is less than or equal to 6 (dark blonde) and preferably less than or equal to 4 (chestnut).
L'éclaircissement des cheveux est évalué par la variation de «hauteur de ton» avant et après application du composé de formule (I). La notion « ton » repose sur la classification des nuances naturelles, un ton séparant chaque nuance de celle qui la suit ou la précède immédiatement. Cette définition et la classification des nuances naturelles est bien connue des professionnels de la coiffure et publiée dans l'ouvrage
Les hauteurs de ton s'échelonnent de 1 (noir) à 10 (blond très clair), une unité correspondant à un ton ; plus le chiffre est élevé et plus la nuance est claire.Heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), a unit corresponding to a tone; the higher the number, the clearer the nuance.
Un cheveu coloré artificiellement est un cheveu dont la couleur a été modifiée par un traitement de coloration par exemple une coloration avec des colorants directs ou des colorants d'oxydation.An artificially colored hair is a hair whose color has been modified by a coloring treatment, for example a coloration with direct dyes or oxidation dyes.
Au sens de l'invention, on entend par cheveux décolorés, des cheveux dont la hauteur de ton est supérieure à 6 et de préférence supérieure à 7.For the purposes of the invention, the term "bleached hair" means hair whose pitch is greater than 6 and preferably greater than 7.
Au sens de l'invention on entend par « décapage » de la coloration des fibres kératiniques un procédé qui fait intervenir l'application d'un stimulus chimique ou physique apte à ramener le cheveu vers sa couleur originelle. A titre d'exemple le décapage peut être obtenu par application d'une composition oxydante à base de peroxyde d'hydrogène, de persulfate de sodium, de potassium ou d'ammonium, à un pH modérément alcalin, i.e. compris entre 7 et 12, préférentiellement entre 8 et 10,5.For the purposes of the invention, the term "stripping" of the coloration of keratin fibers is a process that involves the application of a chemical or physical stimulus capable of bringing the hair back to its original color. By way of example, the etching may be obtained by applying an oxidizing composition based on hydrogen peroxide, sodium persulfate, potassium or ammonium, at a moderately alkaline pH, ie between 7 and 12, preferably between 8 and 10.5.
Un moyen pour mesurer l'effet éclaircissant apporté aux cheveux après application des colorants fluorescent de l'invention est d'utiliser le phénomène de réflectance des cheveux.One means for measuring the lightening effect provided to the hair after application of the fluorescent dyes of the invention is to use the hair reflectance phenomenon.
De préférence, la composition doit, après application sur des cheveux foncés amener aux résultats ci-dessous.
- On s'intéresse aux performances de réflectance des cheveux lorsqu'on les irradie avec de la lumière visible dans la gamme de longueurs d'onde allant de 400 à 700 nanomètres.
- On compare alors les courbes de réflectance en fonction de la longueur d'onde, des cheveux traités avec la composition de l'invention et des cheveux non traités.
- La courbe correspondant aux cheveux traités doit montrer une réflectance dans la gamme des longueurs d'onde allant de 500 à 700 nanomètres supérieure à la courbe correspondant aux cheveux non traités.
- Cela signifie que, dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 540 à 700 nanomètres, il existe au moins une plage où la courbe de réflectance correspondant aux cheveux traités est supérieure à la courbe de réflectance correspondant aux cheveux non traités. On entend par "supérieure", un écart d'au moins 0,05% de réflectance, et de préférence d'au moins 0,1%. Ceci n'empêche pas qu'il peut exister dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 540 à 700 nanomètres, au moins une plage où la courbe de réflectance correspondant aux cheveux traités soit superposable, ou inférieure à la courbe de réflectance correspondant aux cheveux non traités.Preferably, the composition should, after application to dark hair bring to the results below.
- We are interested in the reflectance performance of hair when irradiated with visible light in the wavelength range of 400 to 700 nanometers.
The reflectance curves are then compared as a function of the wavelength, of the hair treated with the composition of the invention and of the untreated hair.
- The curve corresponding to the treated hair must show a reflectance in the wavelength range from 500 to 700 nanometers higher than the curve corresponding to untreated hair.
This means that, in the wavelength range of 540 to 700 nanometers, there is at least one range where the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair is greater than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair. The term "superior" means a difference of at least 0.05% reflectance, and preferably at least 0.1%. This does not prevent that there may exist in the wavelength range from 540 to 700 nanometers, at least one range where the reflectance curve corresponding to the treated hair is superimposable, or less than the reflectance curve corresponding to the untreated hair.
De préférence, la longueur d'onde où l'écart est maximal entre la courbe de réflectance des cheveux traités et celle des cheveux non traités, se situe dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 500 à 650 nanomètres, et de préférence dans la gamme de longueur d'onde allant de 550 à 620 nanomètres.Preferably, the wavelength where the difference is greatest between the reflectance curve of the treated hair and that of the untreated hair is in the wavelength range of 500 to 650 nanometers, and preferably in the the wavelength range from 550 to 620 nanometers.
Au sens de la présente invention, et à moins qu'une indication différente ne soit donnée :
- les radicaux « aryle » ou « hétéroaryle » ou la partie aryle ou hétéroaryle d'un radical peuvent être substitués par au moins un substituant porté par un atome de carbone, choisi parmi :
- un radical alkyle en C1-C16, de préférence en C1-C8, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux choisis parmi les radicaux hydroxy, alcoxy en C1-C2, (poly)-hydroxyalcoxy en C2-C4, acylamino, amino substitué par deux radicaux alkyle, identiques ou différents, en C1-C4, éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupe hydroxy ou, les deux radicaux pouvant former avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle comprenant de 5 à 7 chaînons, de préférence de 5 ou 6 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé éventuellement substitué comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome identique ou différent de l'azote ;
- un atome d'halogène tel que chlore, fluor ou brome ;
- un groupe hydroxy ;
- un radical alcoxy en C1-C2 ;
- un radical alkylthio en C1-C2 ;
- un radical (poly)-hydroxyalcoxy en C2-C4 ;
- un radical amino ;
- un radical héterocycloalkyle à 5 ou 6 chaînons ;
- un radical hétéroaryle à 5 ou 6 chaînons éventuellement cationique, préférentiellement imidazolium, et éventuellement substitué par un radical (C1-C4) alkyle, préférentiellement méthyle ;
- un radical amino substitué par un ou deux radicaux alkyle, identiques ou différents, en C1-C6 éventuellement porteurs d'au moins :
- i) un groupe hydroxy,
- ii) un groupe amino éventuellement substituté par un ou deux radicaux alkyle en C1-C3 éventuellement substitués, lesdits radicaux alkyle pouvant former avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle comprenant de 5 à 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé éventuellement substitué comprenant éventuellement au moins un autre hétéroatome différent ou non de l'azote,
- -NR-COR' dans lequel le radical R est un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteur d'au moins un groupe hydroxy et le radical R' est un radical alkyle en C1-C2 ;
- (R)2N-CO- dans lequel les radicaux R, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteur d'au moins un groupe hydroxy ;
- R'SO2-NR- dans lequel le radical R représente un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteur d'au moins un groupe hydroxy et le radical R' représente un radical alkyle en C1-C4, un radical phényle ;
- (R)2N-SO2- dans lequel les radicaux R, identiques ou non, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteur d'au moins un groupe hydroxy,
- un radical carboxylique sous forme acide ou salifiée (de préférence avec un métal alcalin ou un ammonium, substitué ou non) ;
- un groupe cyano ;
- un groupe polyhalogénoalkyle comprenant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbones et de 1 à 6 atome d'halogène, identiques ou différents, le groupe polyhalogénoalkyle est par exemple le trifluorométhyle ;
- la partie cyclique ou hétérocyclique d'un radical non aromatique peut être substituée par au moins un substituant porté par un atome de carbone choisi parmi les groupes :
- hydroxy,
- alcoxy en C1-C4,
- (poly)hydroxyalcoxy en C2-C4,
- un radical alkylthio en C1-C2 ;
- RCO-NR'- dans lequel le radical R' est un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteur d'au moins un groupe hydroxy et le radical R est un radical alkyle en C1-C2, amino substitué par deux groupes alkyle identiques ou différents en C1-C4 éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupe hydroxy ;
- RCO-O- dans lequel le radical R est un radical alkyle en C1-C4, amino substitué par un ou deux groupes alkyle identiques ou différents en C1-C4 éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupe hydroxy, lesdits radicaux alkyle pouvant former avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, un hétérocycle comprenant de 5 à 7 chaînons, saturé ou insaturé éventuellement substitué comprenant éventuellement au moins un autre hétéroatome différent ou non de l'azote ;
- RO-CO- dans lequel le radical R est un radical alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement porteurs d'au moins un groupe hydroxy ;
- un radical cyclique, hétérocyclique, ou une partie non aromatique d'un radical aryle ou hétéroaryle, peut également être substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes oxo ou thioxo ;
- un radical « aryle » représente un groupe carboné mono ou polycyclique, condensé ou non, comprenant de 6 à 22 atomes de carbones, et dont au moins un cycle est aromatique ; préférentiellement le radical aryle est un phényle, biphényle, naphtyle, indényle, anthracényle, ou tétrahydronaphtyle ;
- un radical « diarylalkyle » représente un groupe comportant sur le même atome de carbone d'un groupe alkyle deux groupe aryle, identiques ou différents tel que diphénylméthyle ou 1,1-diphényléthyle ;
- un « radical hétéroaryle » représente un groupe mono ou polycyclique, condensé ou non, éventuellement cationique, comprenant de 5 à 22 chaînons, de 1 à 6 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'atome d'azote, d'oxygène, de soufre et de sélénium, et dont au moins un cycle est aromatique ; préférentiellement un radical hétéroaryle est choisis parmi acridinyle, benzimidazolyle, benzobistriazolyle, benzopyrazolyle, benzopyridazinyle, benzoquinolyle, benzothiazolyle, benzotriazolyle, benzoxazolyle, pyridinyle, tétrazolyle, dihydrothiazolyle, imidazopyridinyle, imidazolyle, indolyle, isoquinolyle, naphthoimidazolyle, naphthooxazolyle, naphthopyrazolyle, oxadiazolyle, oxazolyle, oxazolopyridyle, phénazinyle, phénooxazolyle, pyrazinyle, pyrazolyle, pyrilyle, pyrazoyltriazyle, pyridyle, pyridinoimidazolyle, pyrrolyle, quinolyle, tétrazolyle, thiadiazolyle, thiazolyle, thiazolopyridinyle, thiazoylimidazolyle, thiopyrylyle, triazolyle, xanthylyle et son sel d'ammonium ;
- un radical « dihétéroarylalkyle » représente un groupe comportant sur le même atome de carbone d'un groupe alkyle deux groupe hétéroaryle, identiques ou différents tel que difurylméthyle, 1,1-difuryléthyle, dipyrrolylméthyle, dithiénylméthyle ;
- un « radical cyclique » est un radical cycloalkyle non aromatique, mono ou polycyclique, condensé ou non, contenant de 5 à 22 atomes de carbone, pouvant comporter de 1 à plusieurs insaturations ; particulièrement le radical cyclique est un cyclohexyle ;
- un radical « cyclique stériquement encombré» est un radical cyclique, aromatique ou non, substitué ou non, encombré par effet ou contrainte stérique, comprenant de 6 à 14 chaînons, pouvant être pontés, à titre de radicaux stériquement encombrés on peut citer le bicyclo[1.1.0]butane, les mésytyles tels que le 1,3,5-triméthylpnényle, le 1,3,5-triterbutylphényle, le 1,3,5-isobutylphényle, le 1,3,5-trimétylsillylphényle et l'adamantyle ;
- un « radical hétérocyclique ou hétérocycle» est un radical non aromatique mono ou polycyclique, condensé ou non, contenant de 5 à 22 chaînons, comportant de 1 à 6 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'atome d'azote, d'oxygène, de soufre et de sélénium, particulièrement le radical est monocyclique, contient de 5 à 7 chaînons et 1 ou 2 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'azote, l'oxygène et le soufre, dont au moins un des hétéroatome est un atome d'azote ; plus particulièrement le radical hétérocyclique est choisi parmi pyrrolidinyle, et pipéridyle ;
- un « radical alkyle » est un radical hydrocarboné en C1-C16, linéaire ou ramifié, de préférence en C1-C8 ;
- l'expression « éventuellement substitué » attribué au radical alkyle sous entend que ledit radical alkyle peut être substitué par un ou plusieurs radicaux choisis parmi les radicaux i) hydroxy, ii) alcoxy en C1-C4, iii) acylamino, iv) amino éventuellement substitué par un ou deux radicaux alkyle, identiques ou différents, en C1-C4, lesdits radicaux alkyles pouvant former avec l'atome d'azote qui les portent un hétérocyle comprenant de 5 à 7 chaînons, comprenant éventuellement un autre hétéroatome différent ou non de l'azote ; v) ou un groupe ammonium quaternaire -N+R'R''R''', M-pour lequel R', R", R"', identiques ou différents représentent un atome d'hydrogène, ou un groupe alkyle en C1-C4, ou alors -N+R'R"R"' forme un hétéroaryle tel que imidazolium éventuellement substitué par un groupe C1-C4 alkyle, et M représente le contre-ion de l'acide organique, minéral ou de l'halogénure correspondant,
- un « radical alcoxy » est un radical alkyle-oxy ou alkyl-O- pour lequel le radical alkyle est un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, en C1-C16 préférentiellement en C1-C8 ;
- un « radical alkylthio » est un radical alkyl-S- pour lequel le radical alkyle est un radical hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, en C1-C16 préférentiellement en C1-C8 ; lorsque le groupe alkylthio est éventuellement substitué, cela sous entend que le groupe alkyle est éventuellement substitué tel que défini précédemment ;
- les bornes délimitant l'étendue d'une plage de valeurs sont comprises dans cette plage de valeurs ;
- un « sel d'acide organique ou minéral » est plus particulièrement choisi parmi un sel dérivé i) d'acide chlorhydrique HCl, ii) d'acide bromhydrique HBr, iii) d'acide sulfurique H2SO4, iv) d'acides alkylsulfoniques : Alk-S(O)2OH tels que d'acide méthylsulfonique et d'acide éthylsulfonique ; v) d'acides arylsulfoniques : Ar-S(O)2OH tel que d'acide benzène sulfonique et d'acide toluène sulfonique ; vi) d'acide citrique ; vii) d'acide succinique ; viii) d'acide tartrique ; ix) d'acide lactique, x) d'acides alkoxysulfiniques : Alk-O-S(O)OH tels que d'acide méthoxysulfinique et d'acide éthoxysulfinique ; xi) d'acides aryloxysulfiniques tels que d'acide toluèneoxysulfinique et d'acide phénoxysulfinique ; xii) d'acide phosphorique H3PO4; xiii) d'acide acétique CH3COOH ; xiv) d'acide triflique CF3SO3H et xv) d'acide tétrafluoroborique HBF4 ;
- un « contre-ion anionique » est un anion ou un groupe anionique associé à la charge cationique du colorant ; plus particulièrement le contre-ion anionique est choisi parmi i) les halogénures tels que le chlorure, le bromure ; ii) les nitrates ; iii) les sulfonates parmi lesquels les C1-C6 alkylsulfonates : Alk-S(O)2O- tels que le méthylsulfonate ou mésylate et l'éthylsulfonate ; iv) les arylsulfonates : Ar-S(O)2O- tel que le benzènesulfonate et le toluènesulfonate ou tosylate ; v) le citrate ; vi) le succinate ; vii) le tartrate ; viii) le lactate ; ix) les alkylsulfates : Alk-O-S(O)O- tels que le méthysulfate et l'éthylsulfate ; x) les arylsulfates : Ar-O-S(O)O- tels que le benzènesulfate et le toluènesulfate ; xi) les alkoxysulfates : Alk-O-S(O)2O- tel que le méthoxy sulfate et l'éthoxysulfate ; xii) les aryloxysulfates : Ar-O-S(O)2O-, xiii) le phosphate ; xiv) l'acétate ; xv) le triflate ; et xvi) les borates tels que le tétrafluoroborate ;
- les « solvates » représentent les hydrates ainsi que l'association avec des alcools linéaires ou ramifiés en C1-C4 linéaire ou ramifié tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le n-propanol.
- the "aryl" or "heteroaryl" radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radical may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom chosen from:
- an alkyl radical C 1 -C 16, preferably C 1 -C 8, optionally substituted by one or more radicals chosen from hydroxyl, alkoxy, C 1 -C 2 alkyl, (poly) hydroxyalkoxy, C 2 -C 4 , acylamino, amino substituted with two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, or the two radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered, preferably 5 or 6-membered, optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated heterocycle optionally comprising another heteroatom which is the same or different from nitrogen;
- a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;
- a hydroxy group;
- a C 1 -C 2 alkoxy radical;
- a C 1 -C 2 alkylthio radical;
- a (C 2 -C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkoxy radical;
- an amino radical;
- a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl radical;
- a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl radical, preferably methyl;
- an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally carrying at least:
- i) a hydroxy group,
- ii) an amino group optionally substituted with one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered heterocycle, saturated or optionally substituted unsaturated optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom different or different from nitrogen,
- -NR-COR 'in which the radical R is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R' is a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical; ;
- (R) 2 N-CO- in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group;
- R'SO 2 -NR- wherein the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in C 1 -C 4 alkyl optionally bearing at least one hydroxy group and R 'is an alkyl radical C 1 - C 4 , a phenyl radical;
- (R) 2 N-SO 2 - in which the radicals R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group,
- a carboxylic radical in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or unsubstituted);
- a cyano group;
- a polyhaloalkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 halogen atoms, which are identical or different, the polyhaloalkyl group is, for example, trifluoromethyl;
- the cyclic or heterocyclic part of a nonaromatic radical may be substituted by at least one substituent carried by a carbon atom chosen from the groups:
- hydroxy,
- C 1 -C 4 alkoxy,
- (poly) hydroxyalkoxy C 2 -C 4 ,
- a C 1 -C 2 alkylthio radical;
- RCO-NR'- in which the radical R 'is a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the radical R is a C 1 -C 2 alkyl radical; amino substituted with two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group;
- RCO-O- wherein the radical R is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, amino substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, said alkyl radicals capable of forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- to 7-membered optionally substituted saturated or unsaturated heterocycle optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which is different from or different from nitrogen;
- RO-CO- wherein the radical R is a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group;
- a cyclic, heterocyclic, or nonaromatic portion of an aryl or heteroaryl radical may also be substituted by one or more oxo or thioxo groups;
- an "aryl" radical represents a mono or polycyclic carbon group, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl;
- a "diarylalkyl" radical represents a group comprising, on the same carbon atom of an alkyl group two aryl groups, identical or different such as diphenylmethyl or 1,1-diphenylethyl;
- a "heteroaryl radical" represents a mono or polycyclic group, condensed or not, optionally cationic, comprising from 5 to 22 members, from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium, and wherein at least one ring is aromatic; preferably heteroaryl is selected from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyle, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyle, naphthooxazolyle, naphthopyrazolyle, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl phenazinyl, phenoxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl and its ammonium salt;
- a "diheteroarylalkyl" radical represents a group comprising, on the same carbon atom of a two or more heteroaryl alkyl group, identical or different, such as difurylmethyl, 1,1-difurylethyl, dipyrrolylmethyl, dithienylmethyl;
- a "cyclic radical" is a non-aromatic, mono- or polycyclic cycloalkyl radical, condensed or not, containing from 5 to 22 carbon atoms, which may contain from 1 to several unsaturations; particularly the cyclic radical is cyclohexyl;
- a "sterically hindered cyclic" radical is a cyclic radical, aromatic or not, substituted or unsubstituted, hindered by steric effect or constraint, comprising from 6 to 14 members, which can be bridged, as sterically hindered radicals, mention may be made of bicyclo [ 1.1.0] butane, mesylates such as 1,3,5-trimethylphenyl, 1,3,5-triterbutylphenyl, 1,3,5-isobutylphenyl, 1,3,5-trimethylsillylphenyl and adamantyl;
- a "heterocyclic radical or heterocycle" is a non-aromatic radical, mono or polycyclic, condensed or not, containing from 5 to 22 members, comprising from 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium, especially the radical is monocyclic, contains 5 to 7 members and 1 or 2 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur, wherein at least one of the heteroatoms is a nitrogen atom; more particularly the heterocyclic radical is chosen from pyrrolidinyl and piperidyl;
- an "alkyl radical" is a linear or branched C 1 -C 16 hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C 1 -C 8 hydrocarbon radical;
- the term "optionally substituted" ascribed to the alkyl radical implies that said alkyl radical may be substituted by one or more radicals chosen from the radicals i) hydroxy, ii) alkoxy C 1 -C 4 , iii) acylamino, iv) amino optionally substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, said alkyl radicals being capable of forming, with the nitrogen atom carrying them, a 5- to 7-membered heterocyl, optionally comprising another different heteroatom; or not nitrogen; v) or a quaternary ammonium group -N + R'R''R ''', M - for which R', R ", R"', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a C 1 -alkyl group; 1 -C 4 , or -N + R'R "R"'forms a heteroaryl such as imidazolium optionally substituted with a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, and M represents the counterion of the organic acid, mineral or the corresponding halide,
- an "alkoxy radical" is an alkyl-oxy or alkyl-O- radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in C 1 -C 16 preferentially in C 1 -C 8 ;
- an "alkylthio radical" is an alkyl-S- radical for which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C 1 -C 16 preferably C 1 -C 8 ; when the alkylthio group is optionally substituted, this implies that the alkyl group is optionally substituted as defined above;
- the bounds defining the range of a range of values lie within this range of values;
- an "organic or inorganic acid salt" is more particularly chosen from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H 2 SO 4 , iv) acids alkylsulfonic: Alk-S (O) 2 OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S (O) 2 OH such as benzene sulfonic acid and toluene sulfonic acid; (vi) citric acid; vii) succinic acid; viii) tartaric acid; ix) lactic acid, x) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS (O) OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; xi) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; xii) phosphoric acid H 3 PO 4 ; xiii) acetic acid CH 3 COOH; xiv) triflic acid CF 3 SO 3 H and xv) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF 4 ;
- an "anionic counterion" is an anion or an anionic group associated with the cationic charge of the dye; more particularly the anionic counterion is selected from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates, including C 1 -C 6 alkylsulphonates: Alk-S (O) 2 O - such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S (O) 2 O - such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulphonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; (vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulphates: Alk-OS (O) O - such as methysulfate and ethylsulfate; x) arylsulfates: Ar-OS (O) O - such as benzenesulphate and toluenesulphate; xi) Alkoxysulfates: Alk-OS (O) 2 O - such as methoxy sulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS (O) 2 O -, xiii) phosphate; (xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate;
- the "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with linear or branched C1-C4 linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and n-propanol.
Un des objets de l'invention concernent des colorants fluorescents thiols/disulfure de formule (I).One of the objects of the invention relates to thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) .
Les colorants fluorescents thiols/disulfures de formule (I) sont des composés capables d'absorber dans le rayonnement UV ou visible à une longueur d'onde λabs comprise entre 250 et 800 nm et capables de réémettre dans le domaine du visible à une longueur d'onde d'émission λém comprise entre 400 et 800 nm.The thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) are compounds capable of absorbing in UV or visible radiation at a wavelength λ abs of between 250 and 800 nm and capable of reemitting in the visible range to a length emission wave λ em between 400 and 800 nm.
De préférence les composés fluorescents de formule (I) de l'invention sont des colorants capables d'absorber dans le visible λabs comprise entre 400 et 800 nm et de réémettre dans le visible λém comprise entre 400 et 800 nm. Plus préférentiellement les colorants de formule (I) sont des colorants capables d'absorber à une λabs comprise entre 420 nm et 550 nm et de réémettre dans le visible à une λém comprise entre 470 et 600 nm.Preferably, the fluorescent compounds of formula (I) of the invention are dyes capable of absorbing in the visible λ abs between 400 and 800 nm and reemitting in the visible λ em between 400 and 800 nm. More preferentially, the dyes of formula (I) are dyes capable of absorbing at an λ abs of between 420 nm and 550 nm and of reemitting in the visible at an λ em of between 470 and 600 nm.
Les composés fluorescents thiol de l'invention de formule (I) pour lesquels m et n valent 1, contiennent une fonction SY qui peut se trouver sous la forme covalente -S-Y ou ionique -S-Y+ selon la nature de Y et du pH du milieu.The thiol fluorescent compounds of the invention of formula (I) for which m and n are 1, contain a SY function which may be in the covalent -SY or ionic -S - Y + form depending on the nature of Y and the pH middle.
Lorsque les composés de l'invention contiennent plusieurs contre-ions anioniques An-, lesdits contre-ions peuvent être identiques ou différents.When the compounds of the invention contain several ions against anionic An -, against said ions may be the same or different.
Un mode particulier concerne les colorants fluorescents thiols de formule (II) pour lesquels m et n valent 1, à fonction SY où Y représente un atome d'hydrogène, ou un métal alcalin. Avantageusement Y représente un atome d'hydrogène.One particular mode relates to thiol fluorescent dyes of formula (II) for which m and n are 1, with SY function where Y represents a hydrogen atom, or an alkali metal. Advantageously, Y represents a hydrogen atom.
Conformément à un autre mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, dans la formule (I) précitée, Y est un groupe protecteur connu par l'homme du métier comme par exemple ceux décris dans les ouvrages
Particulièrement lorsque Y représente un groupe protecteur de la fonction thiol, Y est choisi parmi les radicaux suivants :
- ■ (C1-C4)alkylcarbonyle ;
- ■ (C1-C4)alkylthiocarbonyle ;
- ■ (C1-C4)alcoxycarbonyle ;
- ■ (C1-C4)alcoxythiocarbonyle ;
- ■ (C1-C4)alkylthio-thiocarbonyle ;
- ■ (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)aminocarbonyle ;
- ■ (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)aminothiocarbonyle;
- ■ arylcarbonyle comme phénylcarbonyle ;
- ■ aryloxycarbonyle ;
- ■ aryl(C1-C4)alkcoxycarbonyle ;
- ■ (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)aminocarbonyle comme diméthylaminocarbonyle ;
- ■ (C1-C4)(alkyl)arylaminocarbonyle ;
- ■ carboxy ;
- ■ SO3 -; M+ avec M+ représentant un métal alcalin tel que le sodium ou le potassium, ou alors An- de la formule (I) et M+ sont absents ;
- ■ aryle éventuellement substitué tel que le phényle, dibenzosubéryle, ou 1,3,5-cycloheptatriényle,
- ■ hétéroaryle éventuellement substitué ; dont notamment l'hétéroaryle cationiques ou non, comprenant de 1 à 4 hétéroatomes suivants :
- i) monocycliques à 5, 6 ou 7 chaînons tels que furanyle ou furyle, pyrrolyle ou pyrryle, thiophényle ou thiényle, pyrazolyle, oxazolyle, oxazolium, isoxazolyle, isoxazolium, thiazolyle, thiazolium, isothiazolyle, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolyle, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolyle, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolyle, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolyle, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, thiopyridyle, pyridinium, pyrimidinyle, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyle, pyrazinium, pyridazinyle, pyridazinium, triazinyle, triazinium, tétrazinyle, tétrazinium, azépine, azépinium, oxazépinyle, oxazépinium, thiépinyle, thiépinium, imidazolyle, imidazolium ;
- ii) bicycliques à 8 à 11 chaînons tels que indolyle, indolinium, benzoimidazolyle, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolyle, benzoxazolium, dihydrobenzoxazolinyle, benzothiazolyle, benzothiazolium, pyridoimidazolyle, pyridoimidazolium, thiénocycloheptadiényle, ces groupes mono ou bicycliques étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes tels que (C1-C4)alkyle comme méthyle, ou polyhalogéno(C1-C4)alkyle comme trifluorométhyle ;
- iii) ou tricyclique ABC suivant :
- ■ hétérocycloalkyle éventuellement substitué, éventuellement cationique, le groupe hétérocycloalkyle représente notamment un groupe monocyclique saturé ou partiellement saturé à 5, 6 ou 7 chaînons comprenant de 1 à 4 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'oxygène, le soufre et l'azote, tel que di/tétrahydrofuranyle, di/tétrahydrothiophényle, di/tétrahydropyrrolyle, di/tétrahydropyranyle, di/tétra/hexahydrothiopyranyle, dihydropyridyle, pipérazinyle, pipéridinyle, tétraméthylpipéridinyle, morpholinyle, di/tétra/hexahydroazépinyle, di/tétrahydropyrimidinyle ces groupes étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes comme (C1-C4)alkyle, oxo ou thioxo ; ou l'hétérocycle représente le groupe suivant :
- ■ isothiouronium ;
- ■ -C(NR'cR'd)=N+R'eR'f; An- avec R'c, R'd, R'e et R'f, identiques ou différents représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe (C1-C4)alkyle ; préférentiellement R'c à R'f représentent un atome d'hydrogène ; et An'-représente un contre-ion anionique;
- ■ isothiourée ;
- ■ -C(NR'cR'd)=NR'e; An- avec R'c, R'd, R'e et An- sont tels que définis précédemment ;
- ■ (di)aryl(C1-C4)alkyle éventuellement substitué tel que le 9-anthracénylméthyle, phénylméthyle ou diphénylméthyle éventuellement substitué par un plusieurs groupes notamment choisis parmi (C1-C4) alkyle, (C1-C4) alcoxy comme le méthoxy, hydroxy, alkylcarbonyle, (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)amino comme le diméthylamino ;
- ■ (di)hétéroaryl(C1-C4)akyle éventuellement substitué, le groupe hétéroaryle est notamment, cationique ou non, monocyclique, comprenant 5 ou 6 chaînons et de 1 à 4 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'azote, l'oxygène et le soufre, tels que les groupes pyrrolyle, furanyle, thiophényle, pyridyle, pyridyle N-oxyde tels que le 4-pyridyle ou 2-pyridyl-N-oxyde, pyrylium, pyridinium, triazinyle, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupe tel que alkyle particulièrement méthyle, avantageusement le (di)hétéroaryl(C1-C4)akyle est (di)hétéroarylméthyle ou (di)hétéroaryléthyle ;
- ■ -CR1R2R3 avec R1, R2 et R3 identiques ou différents, représentant un atome d'halogène ou un groupe choisi parmi :
- i) (C1-C4)alkyle ;
- ii) (C1-C4)alcoxy ;
- iii) aryle éventuellement substitué tel que phényle éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes comme (C1-C4)alkyle, (C1-C4)alcoxy, hydroxy ;
- iv) hétéroaryle éventuellement substitué tel que thiophényle, furanyle, pyrrolyle, pyranyle, pyridyle, éventuellement substitué par un groupe (C1-C4)alkyle ;
- v) P(Z1)R'1R'2R'3 avec R'1, et R'2 identiques ou différents représentent un groupe hydroxy, (C1-C4)alcoxy ou alkyle, R'3 représente un groupe hydroxy ou (C1-C4)alcoxy, et Z1 représente un atome d'oxygène ou de soufre ;
- ■ cyclique stériquement encombré ; et
- ■ alcoxyalkyle éventuellement substitué tels que le méthoxyméthyle (MOM), éthoxyéthyle (EOM) et l'isobutoxyméthyle.
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylthiocarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxythiocarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylthiothiocarbonyl;
- ■ (di) (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl;
- ■ (di) (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) aminothiocarbonyl;
- Arylcarbonyl such as phenylcarbonyl;
- Aryloxycarbonyl;
- Aryl (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl;
- (Di) (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl as dimethylaminocarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl;
- ■ carboxy;
- ■ SO 3 - ; M + with M + representing an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or then An - of the formula (I) and M + are absent;
- Optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl, dibenzosuberyl, or 1,3,5-cycloheptatrienyl,
- Optionally substituted heteroaryl; of which in particular cationic or non-cationic heteroaryl, comprising from 1 to 4 following heteroatoms:
- i) 5, 6 or 7 membered monocyclic such as furanyl or furyl, pyrrolyl or pyrryl, thiophenyl or thienyl, pyrazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolium, isoxazolyl, isoxazolium, thiazolyl, thiazolium, isothiazolyl, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolyl, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolyl, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolyl, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolyl, 1, 2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, thiopyridyl, pyridinium, pyrimidinyl, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinyl, pyridazinium, triazinyl, triazinium, tetrazinyl, tetrazinium, azepine, azepinium, oxazepinyl, oxazepinium, thiepinyl, thiepinium, imidazolyl, imidazolium;
- ii) 8 to 11-membered bicyclics such as indolyl, indolinium, benzoimidazolyl, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolyl, benzoxazolium, dihydrobenzoxazolinyl, benzothiazolyl, benzothiazolium, pyridoimidazolyl, pyridoimidazolium, thienocycloheptadienyl, these mono or bicyclic groups being optionally substituted with one or more groups such as (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl as methyl, or polyhalo (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl as trifluoromethyl ;
- iii) or tricyclic ABC following:
- Optionally substituted heterocycloalkyl, optionally cationic heterocycloalkyl represents in particular a saturated or partially saturated 5, 6 or 7 membered monocyclic group comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur and nitrogen, such as di / tetrahydrofuranyl, di / tetrahydrothiophenyl, di / tetrahydropyrrolyl, di / tetrahydropyranyl, di / tetra / hexahydrothiopyranyl, dihydropyridyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, tetramethylpiperidinyl, morpholinyl, di / tetra / hexahydroazepinyl, di / tetrahydropyrimidinyl these groups being optionally substituted with one or more groups such as (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl, oxo or thioxo; or the heterocycle represents the following group:
- ■ isothiouronium;
- -C (NR ' c R' d ) = N + R ' e R'f; An - with R 'c, R' d, R 'e and R' f, like or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl; preferably R ' c to R' f represent a hydrogen atom; and An ' - represents an anionic counterion;
- ■ isothiourea;
- -C (NR ' c R' d ) = NR 'e; An - with R ' c , R' d , R ' e and An - are as defined previously;
- Optionally substituted (di) aryl (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl, such as 9-anthracenylmethyl, phenylmethyl or diphenylmethyl, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen in particular from (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxy such as methoxy, hydroxy, alkylcarbonyl, (di) (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) amino such as dimethylamino;
- (Di) heteroaryl (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl optionally substituted, the heteroaryl group is in particular, cationic or non-monocyclic, comprising 5 or 6 members and 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen and sulfur, such as pyrrolyl, furanyl, thiophenyl, pyridyl, pyridyl N-oxide such as 4-pyridyl or 2-pyridyl-N-oxide, pyrylium, pyridinium, triazinyl, optionally substituted by one or more group such as alkyl particularly methyl, advantageously (di) heteroaryl (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl is (di) heteroarylmethyl or (di) heteroarylethyl;
- -CR 1 R 2 R 3 with R 1 , R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, representing a halogen atom or a group chosen from:
- i) (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl;
- ii) (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxy;
- iii) optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl optionally substituted with one or more groups such as (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxy, hydroxy;
- iv) optionally substituted heteroaryl such as thiophenyl, furanyl, pyrrolyl, pyranyl, pyridyl, optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group;
- v) P (Z 1 ) R ' 1 R' 2 R ' 3 with R' 1 , and R ' 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxy or alkyl group, R' 3 represents a group hydroxy or (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxy, and Z 1 represents an oxygen or sulfur atom;
- Cyclic sterically hindered; and
- Optionally substituted alkoxyalkyl such as methoxymethyl (MOM), ethoxyethyl (EOM) and isobutoxymethyl.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier les colorants fluorescents thiols protégés de formule (I) pour lesquels m et n valent 1 comportent un groupe Y i) hétéroaryle monocyclique à 5 ou 6 chaînons aromatiques, cationiques comprenant de 1 à 4 hétéroatomes choisis parmi l'oxygène, le soufre et l'azote, tels que oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyle, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, tétrazinium, oxazépinium, thiépinyle, thiépinium, imidazolium ; ii) hétéroaryle bicyclique à 8 à 11 chaînons cationique tels que indolinium, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, ces groupes hétéroaryle mono ou bicycliques étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes tels que alkyle comme méthyle, ou polyhalogéno(C1-C4)alkyle comme trifluorométhyle ; iii) ou hétérocyclique suivant :
Particulièrement Y représente un groupe choisi parmi oxazolium, isoxazolium, thiazolium, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium et imidazolium, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolium, benzothiazolium, ces groupes étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs groupes (C1-C4) alkyle notamment méthyle. En particulier Y représente un métal alcalin ou un groupe protecteur tel que:
- ➢ (C1-C4)alkylcarbonyle comme méthylcarbonyle ou éthylcarbonyle ;
- ➢ arylcarbonyle comme phénylcarbonyle ;
- ➢ (C1-C4)alkoxycarbonyle ;
- ➢ aryloxycarbonyle ;
- ➢ aryl(C1-C4)alkoxycarbonyle ;
- ➢ (di)(C1-C4)(alkyl)aminocarbonyle comme diméthylaminocarbonyle;
- ➢ (C1-C4)(alkyl)arylaminocarbonyle ;
- ➢ aryle éventuellement substitué tel que le phényle ;
- ➢ hétéroaryle monocyclique à 5 ou 6 chaînons tels que imidazolyle ou pyridyle ;
- ➢ hétéroaryle monocyclique cationique à 5, 6 chaînons tels que pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, imidazolium ; ces groupes étant éventuellement substitués par un ou plusieurs, identiques ou différents, groupes (C1-C4)alkyle tel que méthyle ;
- ➢ hétéroaryle bicyclique cationique à 8 à 11 chaînons tels que benzoimidazolium, ou le benzoxazolium ; ces groupes étant éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs, identiques ou différents, groupes (C1-C4)alkyle tel que méthyle ;
- ➢ hétérocycle cationique de formule suivante :
- ➢ isothiouronium -C(NH2)=N+H2; An-;
- ➢ isothiourée -C(NH2)=NH ;
- ➢ SO3 -, M+ avec M+ représentant un métal alcalin tel que le sodium ou le potassium, ou alors An- de la formule (I) et M+ sont absents.
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkylcarbonyl such as methylcarbonyl or ethylcarbonyl;
- Arylcarbonyl as phenylcarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl;
- Aryloxycarbonyl;
- Aryl (C 1 -C 4 ) alkoxycarbonyl;
- (Di) (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl as dimethylaminocarbonyl;
- (C 1 -C 4 ) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl;
- Optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl;
- 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl such as imidazolyl or pyridyl;
- Cationic monocyclic 5- to 6-membered heteroaryl such as pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, imidazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl groups such as methyl;
- 8 to 11-membered cationic bicyclic heteroaryl such as benzoimidazolium, or benzoxazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl groups such as methyl;
- Cationic heterocycle of following formula:
- ➢ isothiouronium -C (NH 2 ) = N + H 2 ; An - ;
- ➢ isothiourea -C (NH 2 ) = NH;
- ➢ SO 3 - , M + with M + representing an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or then An - of the formula (I) and M + are absent.
Conformément à un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention les colorants fluorescents disulfures de formule (I) lorsque n vaut 2 et m vaut 0 présentent un axe de symétrie C2 entre les deux atomes de soufre du radical central disulfure.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the disulfide fluorescent dyes of formula (I) when n is 2 and m is 0 have an axis of symmetry C2 between the two sulfur atoms of the central disulfide radical.
Selon un mode particulier de l'invention, les colorants de l'invention appartiennent à une des deux formules (Ia) ou (Ib) suivantes :
- R'1 , représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle, particulièrement par un seul groupe hydroxyle ou -C(O)OR' avec R' représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou alors un groupe - C(O)-O- et dans ce dernier cas un contre ion anionique An- est absent;
- R'2 , représente un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyle ; particulièrement par un seul groupe hydroxyle ; plus particulièrement R'1 et R'2 sont identiques ;
- R'3 , et R'4 , identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe hydroxyle, un groupe hydroxy(C1-C4)alkyle ou -C(O)OR' avec R' représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou alors un groupe -C(O)-O- et dans ce cas un contre ion anionique An- est absent, étant entendu qu'un seul de ces deux radicaux R'3 ou R'4 ne peuvent représenter un atome d'hydrogène ;
- R3 représente un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupement -C(O)OR" avec R" représentant un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe alkyle en C1-C4 ou alors R3 représente un groupe -C(O)-O- et dans ce cas un contre ion anionique An- est absent ;
- n vaut 1 ou 2 ;
- m vaut 0 ou 1 ;
- t vaut 1 ou 2 ;
- An- représente un contre ion anionique ;
- Y représente : i) un atome d'hydrogène ; ii) un métal alcalin ; iii) un métal alcalino-terreux ; iv) un groupe ammonium : N+RαRβRγRδ, An- ou un groupe phosphonium : P+RαRβRγRδ, An- avec Rα, Rβ, Rγ et Rδ, identiques ou différents, représentant un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe (C1-C4)alkyle et An- est tels que défini précédemment ; ou v) un groupe protecteur de fonction thiol ; étant entendu que :
- la liaison entre le cycle pyridinium et la double liaison du groupe styryle est positionnée en position 2 ou 4 du pyridinium ;
- lorsque n=1, m=1 alors Y = H ou groupe protecteur de la fonction thiol et lorsque n=2, alors m=0.
- R ' 1 , represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, particularly by a single hydroxyl group or -C (O) OR' with R 'representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or C 1 -C 4 or a group - C (O) -O - and in this case an anionic counterion An - is absent;
- R ' 2 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; particularly by a single hydroxyl group; more particularly R ' 1 and R' 2 are identical;
- R ' 3 and R' 4 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxy (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl group or -C (O) OR 'with R' representing a hydrogen atom; hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a -C (O) -O - group and in this case anionic counterion An - is absent, it being understood that only one of these two radicals R ' 3 or R' 4 can not represent a hydrogen atom;
- R 3 represents a hydrogen atom or a group -C (O) OR "with R" representing a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or R 3 represents a -C (O) - group O - and in this case an anionic counter ion An - is absent;
- n is 1 or 2;
- m is 0 or 1;
- t is 1 or 2;
- An - represents anionic counterion;
- Y represents: i) a hydrogen atom; ii) an alkali metal; iii) an alkaline earth metal; iv) an ammonium group: N + R α R β R γ R δ , An - or a phosphonium group: P + R α R β R γ R δ , An - with R α , R β , R γ and R δ , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl and An - is as defined above; or v) a thiol protecting group; Being heard that :
- the bond between the pyridinium ring and the double bond of the styryl group is positioned in position 2 or 4 of the pyridinium;
- when n = 1, m = 1 then Y = H or protecting group of the thiol function and when n = 2, then m = 0.
A titre d'exemple on peut citer les colorants fluorescents appartenant aux formules (I), (la) ou (Ib) suivants:
Pour préparer les colorants fluorescents thiols/disulfure selon l'invention un peut citer les voies générales suivantes.To prepare thiol / disulfide fluorescent dyes according to the invention, one can cite the following general routes.
Les colorants thiols protégés de formule (II') peuvent être synthétisés en deux étapes. La première étape consistant à préparer le colorant thiol non protégé (II") selon les méthodes connues de l'homme de l'art comme par exemple
Nous pouvons illustrer cette méthode par la méthode consistant i) à générer des colorants fluorescents thiols de formule (II") par réduction d'un colorant fluorescent à deux chromophores, hétérocyclique, portant une fonction disulfure -S-S- tels que (I') et ii) à protéger selon les méthodes classiques ladite fonction thiol de (II") avec le réactif 7 Y'R pour accéder aux colorants fluorescents thiols protégés de formule (II'). Le composé thiol (II") peut également être métallé avec un métal alcalin ou alcalino terreux Met* pour conduire au colorant fluorescent thiolate de formule (II''').
Selon une autre possibilité, on peut faire réagir un composé thiol protégé (b) par un groupe protecteur Y' tel que défini précédemment préparé selon une des procédures décrites dans les ouvrages cités précédemment, ledit composé thiol protégé comprenant au moins une fonction nucléophile avec une quantité suffisante, préférentiellement équimolaire, d'un "chromophore fluorescent réactif" ou d'un composé comprenant un tel "chromophore fluorescent réactif" (a) . En d'autres termes (a) comprend une fonction électrophile pour former une liaison covalente Σ comme cela peut être schématisé ci-dessous dans la préparation de colorants fluorescents de formule (II'a), sous ensemble des colorants fluorescents (II'):
A titre d'exemple, les liaisons Σ pouvant être générées sont répertoriées dans le tableau ci-dessous à partir de condensation d'électrophiles avec des nucléophiles :
On pourra également utiliser un réactif thiol (α) : Y'-SH comprenant un groupe Y' tel que défini précédemment dont la fonction nucléophile SH peut réagir sur l'atome de carbone en alpha de l'atome d'halogène porté par un chromophore fluorescent pour conduire au colorant fluorescent thiol protégé de formule (II'):
Plus particulièrement on pourra substituer un groupe partant nucléofuge par un groupe dérivé de la thiourée (S=C(NRR)NRR) ou la thiourée pour générer les isothiouroniums. Par exemple si le groupe thiourée est une thioimidazolium (β), le schéma réactionnel est le suivant :
Une autre variante peut permettre d'accéder à certains composés (II') à partir de la thiourée cyclique de type imidazoline (b'), suivi de l'alkylation de ladite imidazoline à l'aide de R'd-Gp avec Gp groupe partant tel que chlorure, bromure, tosylate, mésylate :
Une variante est d'utiliser à la place de l'halogénure comprenant le chromophore fluorescent (a') un chromophore comprenant un autre type de nucléofuge tel que le tosylate, mésylate.An alternative is to use in place of the halide comprising the fluorescent chromophore (a ') a chromophore comprising another type of nucleofuge such as tosylate mesylate.
Conformément à une autre possibilité, certains colorants fluorescents thiols protégés (II'a) peuvent être obtenus en faisant réagir un composé thiol protégé, avec un composé portant une fonction acide carboxylique activée selon les méthodes classiques (par exemple réaction avec un carbodiimide ou avec le chlorure de thionyle). Le produit résultant (d) est ensuite mis à réagir avec un chromophore fluorescent porteur d'une fonction nucléophile (c) , de type amine primaire ou secondaire.
Une autre variante est d'utiliser un dérivé de thiolactone tel que représenté par le schéma ci-dessous :
Avec R1, R2, R'1, R'2 Y', Met*, m, n An-, tels que définis précédemment. Le dérivé thiolactone est préférentiellement choisi avec n=3.With R 1 , R 2 , R ' 1 , R' 2 Y ', Met *, m, n An - , as defined above. The thiolactone derivative is preferentially chosen with n = 3.
Une variante de synthèse est de combiner à la première voie la voie précédente ie à partir de deux équivalents du réactif nucléophile (c) avec un réactif diéléctrophile disulfure (i) il est possible de générer après condensation le produit dichromophorique disulfure (I), ce dernier pouvant subir une réduction pour former le colorant thiol fluorescent hétérocyclique (II"a) qui a son tour peut soit être protégé pour former le colorant fluorescent thiol protégé (II'a) ou soit être métallé par un métal alcalin pour conduire au colorant fluorescent thiol hétérocyclique métallé (II'''a) :
Conformément à une autre possibilité, les colorants fluorescents thiols protégés de formule (II') peuvent être obtenus par réaction d'un composé d' comprenant un groupe thiol protégé par un groupe Y', et un groupement partant Gp, tel q'un groupement halogènes (chlore, brome) ou un groupement hydroxy activé préalablement en groupe partant nucléofuge comme par exemple mésylate, tosylate, triflate ou halogénure avec un chromophore styrylpyridine (c') .
Conformément à une autre possibilité, les colorants fluorescents thiols de formule (I) selon l'invention peuvent être obtenus par réaction d'un composé comprenant un groupe thiol protégé par un groupement Y tel que défini précédemment et un groupe électrophile (f) avec un composé pyridinium comprenant un groupe nucléophile. A titre d'exemple, on pourra condenser un aldéhyde ou un thioaldéhyde lorsque G' représente un atome d'oxygène ou un soufre avec un « méthylène activé » tel que l'alkylpyridinium (e) pour générer une liaison éthylène >C=C<. Cette réaction est communément appelée condensation de « Knoevenagel ». Par « méthylènes activés » on sous entend ceux qui comporte en position 2 ou 4 du groupe pyridinium un groupe méthylène CH3-:
On pourra se référer à l'ouvrage
Les colorants fluorescents thiols formés peuvent être transformés en colorants fluorescents thiols protégés -S Y' par la protection du thiol -SH en utilisant les groupes protecteurs classiques. Les colorants fluorescents thiols sont métallés en utilisant également les méthodes classiques connues par l'homme du métier telles que celles décrites dans
Les colorants thiols protégés peuvent êtres déprotégés par voies classiques telles que celles décrites dans les ouvrages
Les réactifs de départs sont commerciaux ou accessibles par les méthodes classiques connues par l'homme du métier. A titre d'exemple il est possible de synthétiser le réactif (I') à partir de 2 équivalents de dérivé pyridinique 1 et un équivalent de réactif disulfure comprenant deux groupes partants Gp, pour conduire au sel de dipyridinium disulfure 3 qui peut se condenser à son tour avec deux équivalents de composé aryle à groupe aldéhyde/thioaldéhyde 4 pour conduire à 5.
On pourra se référer à l'ouvrage
Les colorants fluorescents thiols formés peuvent être transformés en colorants fluorescents thiols protégés -S Y' par la protection du thiol -SH en utilisant les groupes protecteurs classiques. Les colorants fluorescents thiols sont métallés en utilisant également les méthodes classiques connues par l'homme du métier telles que celles décrites dans
Les colorants thiols protégés peuvent êtres déprotégés par voies classiques telles que celles décrites dans les ouvrages
Un autre objet de l'invention concerne une composition tinctoriale pour colorer les matières kératiniques qui contient au moins un colorant fluorescent thiol/disulfure de formule (I). Outre la présence d'au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I), la composition de l'invention peut également contenir un agent réducteur.Another subject of the invention relates to a dyeing composition for dyeing keratin materials which contains at least one thiol / disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I) . In addition to the presence of at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I), the composition of the invention may also contain a reducing agent.
Cet agent réducteur peut être choisi parmi les thiols par exemple la cystéine, l'homocystéine, l'acide thiolactique, les sels de ces thiols, les phosphines, le bisulfite, les sulfites, l'acide thioglycolique, ainsi que ses esters, notamment le monothioglycolate de glycérol, et le thioglycérol. Cet agent réducteur peut aussi être choisi parmi les borohydrures et leurs dérivés, comme par exemple les sels du borohydrure, du cyanoborohydrure, du triacétoxyborohydrure, du triméthoxyborohydrure : sels de sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, ammoniums quaternaires (tétraméthylammonium, tétraéthylammonium, tétra n-butylammonium, benzyltriéthylammonium); le catéchol-borane.This reducing agent may be chosen from thiols, for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulphite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid, and its esters, in particular glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol. This reducing agent may also be chosen from borohydrides and their derivatives, such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catechol borane.
La composition tinctoriale utile dans l'invention contient en général une quantité de colorant fluorescent de formule (I) comprise entre 0,001 et 50% par rapport au poids total de la composition. De préférence, cette quantité est comprise entre 0,005 et 20% en poids et encore plus préférentiellement entre 0,01 et 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The dye composition useful in the invention generally contains a quantity of fluorescent dye of formula (I) of between 0.001% and 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this amount is between 0.005 and 20% by weight and even more preferably between 0.01 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition tinctoriale peut en outre contenir des colorants directs additionnels. Ces colorants directs sont par exemple choisis parmi les colorants directs nitrés benzéniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs azoïques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants tétraazapentaméthiniques, les colorants quinoniques et en particulier anthraquinoniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs aziniques, les colorants directs triarylméthaniques, les colorants directs indoaminiques et les colorants directs naturels.The dye composition may further contain additional direct dyes. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitro-benzene direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, neutral or acidic or cationic quinone dyes, in particular neutral anthraquinone dyes and direct azine dyes. , triarylmethane direct dyes, indoamine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
Parmi les colorants directs naturels, on peut citer la lawsone, la juglone, l'alizarine, la purpurine, l'acide carminique, l'acide kermésique, la purpurogalline, le protocatéchaldéhyde, l'indigo, l'isatine, la curcumine, la spinulosine, l'apigénidine. On peut également utiliser les extraits ou décoctions contenant ces colorants naturels et notamment les cataplasmes ou extraits à base de henné.Among the natural direct dyes that may be mentioned are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.
La composition tinctoriale peut contenir une ou plusieurs base d'oxydation et/ou un ou plusieurs coupleurs conventionnellement utilisés pour la teinture de fibres kératiniques.The dye composition may contain one or more oxidation bases and / or one or more couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.
Parmi les bases d'oxydation, on peut citer les para-phénylènediamines, les bis-phénylalkylènediamines, les para-aminophénols, les bis-para-aminophénols, les ortho-aminophénols, les bases hétérocycliques et leurs sels d'addition.Among the oxidation bases that may be mentioned are para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.
Parmi ces coupleurs, on peut notamment citer les méta-phénylènediamines, les méta-aminophénols, les méta-diphénols, les coupleurs naphtaléniques, les coupleurs hétérocycliques et leur sels d'addition.Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
Le ou les coupleurs sont chacun généralement présents en quantité comprise entre 0,001 et 10% en poids du poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6%.The coupler or couplers are each generally present in an amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6%.
La ou les bases d'oxydation présentes dans la composition tinctoriale sont en général présentes chacune en quantité comprise entre 0,001 à 10% en poids du poids total de la composition tinctoriale, de préférence entre 0,005 et 6% en poids.The oxidation base (s) present in the dyeing composition are in general present each in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, preferably between 0.005 and 6% by weight.
D'une manière générale, les sels d'addition des bases d'oxydation et des coupleurs utilisables dans le cadre de l'invention sont notamment choisis parmi les sels d'addition avec un acide tels que les chlorhydrates, les bromhydrates, les sulfates, les citrates, les succinates, les tartrates, les lactates, les tosylates, les benzènesulfonates, les phosphates et les acétates et les sels d'addition avec une base telles que les hydroxydes de métal alcalin comme la soude, la potasse, l'ammoniaque, les amines ou les alcanolamines.In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
Le milieu approprié pour la teinture, appelé aussi support de teinture, est un milieu cosmétique généralement constitué par de l'eau ou par un mélange d'eau et d'au moins un solvant organique. A titre de solvant organique, on peut par exemple citer les alcanols inférieurs en C1-C4, tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol ; les polyols et éthers de polyols comme le 2-butoxyéthanol, le propylèneglycol, le monométhyléther de propylèneglycol, le monoéthyléther et le monométhyléther du diéthylèneglycol, ainsi que les alcools aromatiques comme l'alcool benzylique ou le phénoxyéthanol, et leurs mélanges.The medium suitable for dyeing, also called dyeing medium, is a cosmetic medium generally consisting of water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned are lower C 1 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Les solvants autres que l'eau lorsqu'ils sont présents sont, de préférence présents dans des proportions de préférence comprises entre 1 et 40% en poids environ par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 5 et 30% en poids environ. Les solvants y compris l'eau sont présents, de préférence présents dans des proportions de préférence comprises entre 1 et 99% en poids environ par rapport au poids total de la composition tinctoriale, et encore plus préférentiellement entre 5 et 95% en poids environ.The solvents other than water when they are present are preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approx. The solvents including water are present, preferably present in proportions preferably of between 1 and 99% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 95% by weight approximately.
Selon une variante, la composition de l'invention contient un agent réducteur capable de réduire les liaisons disulfures de la kératine et/ou disulfure des colorants fluorescents de formule (I). Cet agent réducteur est tel que défini précédemment.According to one variant, the composition of the invention contains a reducing agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of the keratin and / or disulphide of the fluorescent dyes of formula (I). This reducing agent is as defined above.
La composition tinctoriale peut également renfermer divers adjuvants utilisés classiquement dans les compositions pour la teinture des cheveux, tels que des agents tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères, zwittérioniques ou leurs mélanges, des polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques, amphotères, zwittérioniques ou leurs mélanges, des agents épaississants minéraux ou organiques, et en particulier les épaississants associatifs polymères anioniques, cationiques, non ioniques et amphotères, des agents antioxydants, des agents de pénétration, des agents séquestrants, des parfums, des tampons, des agents dispersants, des agents de conditionnement tels que par exemple des silicones volatiles ou non volatiles, modifiées ou non tels que les silicones aminés, des agents filmogènes, des céramides, des agents conservateurs, des agents opacifiants, des polymères conducteurs.The dye composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic polymers. or mixtures thereof, inorganic or organic thickeners, and in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or otherwise, such as aminosilicones, film-forming agents, ceramides, preserving agents, opacifying agents, conductive polymers.
Les adjuvants ci dessus sont en général présents en quantité comprise pour chacun d'eux entre 0,01 et 20% en poids par rapport au poids de la composition.The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount included for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir ce ou ces éventuels composés complémentaires de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition de teinture conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par la ou les adjonctions envisagées.Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the dyeing composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the or the additions envisaged.
Le pH de la composition tinctoriale est généralement compris entre 3 et 14 environ, et de préférence entre 5 et 11 environ. Il peut être ajusté à la valeur désirée au moyen d'agents acidifiants ou alcalinisants habituellement utilisés en teinture des fibres kératiniques ou bien encore à l'aide de systèmes tampons classiques.The pH of the dyeing composition is generally between 3 and 14 approximately, and preferably between 5 and 11 approximately. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
Parmi les agents acidifiants, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, les acides minéraux ou organiques comme l'acide chlorhydrique, l'acide orthophosphorique, l'acide sulfurique, les acides carboxyliques comme l'acide acétique, l'acide tartrique, l'acide citrique, l'acide lactique, les acides sulfoniques.Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.
Parmi les agents alcalinisants on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, l'ammoniaque, les carbonates alcalins, les alcanolamines telles que les mono-, di- et triéthanolamines ainsi que leurs dérivés, les hydroxydes de sodium ou de potassium et les composés de formule (γ) suivante :
La composition tinctoriale peut se présenter sous des formes diverses, telles que sous forme de liquide, de crème, de gel, ou sous toute autre forme appropriée pour réaliser une teinture des fibres kératiniques, et notamment des cheveux.The dye composition may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquid, cream, gel, or in any other form suitable for dyeing keratinous fibers, and in particular hair.
Un autre objet de l'invention est un procédé de coloration de matière kératinique consistant à appliquer sur les dites matières une composition comprenant au moins un colorant de formule (I). Selon un mode de réalisation particulier dans le procédé de l'invention un agent réducteur peut également être appliqué en pré-traitement avant l'application de la composition contenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I).Another subject of the invention is a method for dyeing keratinous material comprising applying to said materials a composition comprising at least one dye of formula (I). According to a particular embodiment in the method of the invention, a reducing agent may also be applied as a pre-treatment before the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I).
Cet agent réducteur peut être choisi parmi les thiols par exemple la cystéine, l'homocystéine, l'acide thiolactique, les sels de ces thiols, les phosphines, le bisulfite, les sulfites, l'acide thioglycolique, ainsi que ses esters, notamment le monothioglycolate de glycérol, et le thioglycérol. Cet agent réducteur peut aussi être choisi parmi les borohydrures et leurs dérivés, comme par exemple les sels du borohydrure, du cyanoborohydrure, du triacétoxyborohydrure, du triméthoxyborohydrure : sels de sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, ammoniums quaternaires (tétraméthylammonium, tétraéthylammonium, tétra n-butylammonium, benzyltriéthylammonium); le catécholborane.This reducing agent may be chosen from thiols, for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols, phosphines, bisulfite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid and its esters, especially the glycerol monothioglycolate, and thioglycerol. This reducing agent may also be chosen from borohydrides and their derivatives, such as, for example, borohydride, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride or trimethoxyborohydride salts: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetra-n-butylammonium, benzyltriethylammonium); catecholborane.
Ce prétraitement peut être de courte durée, notamment de 1 seconde à 30 minutes, de préférence de 1 minute à 15 minutes avec un agent réducteur tel que cité précédemment.This pretreatment may be of short duration, especially from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes with a reducing agent as mentioned above.
Selon un autre procédé, la composition comprenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I) et contient également au moins un agent réducteur tel que défini précédemment. Cette composition est alors appliquée aux cheveux.According to another method, the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) and also contains at least one reducing agent as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.
Lorsque le colorant fluorescent thiol de formule (I) avec n=m=1 comprend un groupe Y protecteur de la fonction thiol, le procédé de l'invention peut être précédé d'une étape de déprotection visant à restituer in-situ la fonction SH.When the thiol fluorescent dye of formula (I) with n = m = 1 comprises a group Y protecting the thiol function, the process of the invention may be preceded by a deprotection step aimed at restoring the SH function in situ .
A titre d'exemple il est possible de déprotéger la fonction S-Y avec Y groupe protecteur en ajustant le pH comme suit :
L'étape de déprotection peut également être réalisée au cours d'une étape de prétraitement des cheveux comme par exemple, le prétraitement réducteur des cheveux.The deprotection step may also be carried out during a hair pretreatment step such as, for example, the hair reduction pretreatment.
Selon une variante, l'agent réducteur est ajouté à la composition tinctoriale contenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I) au moment de l'emploi.According to one variant, the reducing agent is added to the dyeing composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) at the time of use.
Selon un autre procédé, la composition comprenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I) contient également au moins un agent réducteur tel que défini précédemment. Cette composition est alors appliquée aux cheveux.According to another method, the composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of Formula (I) also contains at least one reducing agent as defined above. This composition is then applied to the hair.
Selon une autre variante, l'agent réducteur est appliqué en post-traitement, après l'application de la composition contenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I). La durée du post traitement avec l'agent réducteur peut être courte, par exemple de 1 seconde à 30 minutes de préférence de 1 minute à 15 minutes, avec un agent réducteur tel que décrit précédemment. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier l'agent réducteur est un agent de type thiol ou borohydrure tel que décrit précédemment.According to another variant, the reducing agent is applied in post-treatment, after the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I). The duration of the post-treatment with the reducing agent may be short, for example from 1 second to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 minute to 15 minutes, with a reducing agent as described above. According to a particular embodiment, the reducing agent is a thiol or borohydride type agent as described above.
Un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention concerne un procédé dans lequel le colorant fluorescent de formule (I) peut être appliqué directement aux cheveux sans réducteurs, exempt de pré ou post-traitement réducteurs.A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a process in which the fluorescent dye of formula (I) can be applied directly to hair without reducing agents, free of pre or post-treatment reducers.
Un traitement avec un agent oxydant peut éventuellement être associé. On pourra utiliser n'importe quel type d'agent oxydant classique dans le domaine. Ainsi, il peut être choisi parmi le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates de métaux alcalins, les persels tels que les perborates et les persulfates, ainsi que les enzymes parmi lesquelles on peut citer les peroxydases, les oxydo-réductases à 2 électrons tels que les uricases et les oxygénases à 4 électrons comme les laccases. L'utilisation du peroxyde d'hydrogène est particulièrement préférée.A treatment with an oxidizing agent may optionally be associated. Any type of conventional oxidizing agent may be used in the art. Thus, it may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulphates, as well as the enzymes among which may be mentioned peroxidases, oxides, 2-electron reductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases. The use of hydrogen peroxide is particularly preferred.
Cet agent oxydant peut être appliqué sur les fibres avant ou après l'application de la composition contenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I). Un mode particulier de l'invention concerne le procédé de l'invention comprenant une étape supplémentaire qui consiste à appliquer sur les fibres kératiniques un agent oxydant.This oxidizing agent may be applied to the fibers before or after the application of the composition containing at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I). A particular embodiment of the invention relates to the method of the invention comprising an additional step which consists in applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing agent.
L'application de la composition tinctoriale selon l'invention est généralement effectuée à température ambiante. Elle peut cependant être réalisée à des températures variant de 20 à 180 °C.The application of the dye composition according to the invention is generally carried out at room temperature. It can however be carried out at temperatures ranging from 20 to 180 ° C.
L'invention a aussi pour objet un dispositif à plusieurs compartiments ou "kit" de teinture dans lequel un premier compartiment renferme une composition tinctoriale comprenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I) et un deuxième compartiment renferme un agent réducteur capable de réduire les fonctions disulfures des matières kératiniques et/ou du colorant fluorescent disulfure de formule (I), lorsque n vaut 2 et m vaut 0.The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device or "kit" of dyeing in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I) and a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable of reducing disulfide functions of the keratin materials and / or disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I), when n is 2 and m is 0.
L'un de ces compartiments peut en outre contenir un ou plusieurs autres colorants de type colorant direct ou colorant d'oxydation.One of these compartments may further contain one or more other dyes of direct dye type or oxidation dye.
Elle concerne aussi un dispositif à plusieurs compartiments dans lequel un premier compartiment contient une composition tinctoriale comprenant au moins un colorant fluorescent de formule (I) ; un deuxième compartiment contient un agent réducteur capable de réduire la liaison disulfure des matières kératiniques et/ou du colorant fluorescent disulfure de formule (I) lorsque n vaut 2 et m vaut 0 ; un troisième compartiment contient un agent oxydant.It also relates to a multi-compartment device in which a first compartment contains a dye composition comprising at least one fluorescent dye of formula (I); a second compartment contains a reducing agent capable to reduce the disulfide bond of the keratin materials and / or the disulfide fluorescent dye of formula (I) when n is 2 and m is 0; a third compartment contains an oxidizing agent.
Alternativement, le dispositif de teinture contient un premier compartiment renfermant une composition tinctoriale qui comprend au moins un colorant fluorescent thiol protégé de formule (I) lorsque n=m=1 et un deuxième compartiment renfermant un agent capable de déprotéger le thiol protégé pour libérer le thiol.Alternatively, the dyeing device contains a first compartment containing a dye composition which comprises at least one protected thiol fluorescent dye of formula (I) when n = m = 1 and a second compartment containing an agent capable of deprotecting the protected thiol to release the thiol.
Chacun des dispositifs mentionnés ci-dessus peut être équipé d'un moyen permettant de délivrer sur les cheveux le mélange souhaité, par exemple tel que les dispositifs décrits dans le brevet
Les exemples qui suivent servent à illustrer l'invention sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif. Les colorants fluorescents thiols des exemples ci-après ont été entièrement caractérisés par les méthodes spectroscopiques et spectrométriques classiques.The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The thiol fluorescent dyes of the examples below have been fully characterized by conventional spectroscopic and spectrometric methods.
40.3 g de dichlorhydrate de cystamine sont dissous dans 100 mL d'eau, 32 mL de soude à 35% sont ajoutés (pH 9.7) et la température est abaissée à 5°. 33.5 mL de chlorure de chloracétyle sont introduits goutte à goutte, en maintenant la température inférieure à 10°C et en maintenant le pH entre 7.9 et 9.3 par addition de soude. Le milieu est maintenu agité à température ambiante pendant 2 H. Le précipité est filtré, lavé par 5 x 150 mL d'eau puis séché sous vide en présence de P2O5. 35.3 g de poudre blanche sont recueillis. les analyses indiquent que le produit est conforme.40.3 g of cystamine dihydrochloride are dissolved in 100 ml of water, 32 ml of 35% sodium hydroxide are added (pH 9.7) and the temperature is lowered to 5 °. 33.5 ml of chloroacetyl chloride are introduced dropwise, keeping the temperature below 10 ° C and maintaining the pH between 7.9 and 9.3 by adding sodium hydroxide. The medium is kept stirred at room temperature for 2 h. The precipitate is filtered, washed with 5 × 150 ml of water and then dried under vacuum in the presence of P 2 O 5 . 35.3 g of white powder are collected. the analyzes indicate that the product is compliant.
6.1 g N,N'-(disulfanediyldiéthane-2,1-diyl)bis(2-chloroacétamide) et 4.5 g de 4-picoline sont dissous dans 50 mL de NMP et portés à 80°C pendant 19 h. Après refroidissement du mélange, par précipitations successives dans l'acétone et séchage sous vide, 9.2g de sels sont recueillis. Les analyses montrent que le produit est conforme. RMN 1H (400 MHz, D2O) : 2.61 (s, 6 H), 2.82 (t, 4 H), 3.56 (t, 4 H), 5.31 (s, 4 H), 7.85 (d, 4 H), 8.51 (d, 4 H).6.1 g N, N '- (disulfanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (2-chloroacetamide) and 4.5 g of 4-picoline are dissolved in 50 ml of NMP and brought to 80 ° C for 19 h. After cooling the mixture, by successive precipitation in acetone and drying under vacuum, 9.2 g of salts are collected. The analyzes show that the product is compliant. 1 H NMR (400 MHz, D 2 O): 2.61 (s, 6H), 2.82 (t, 4H), 3.56 (t, 4H), 5.31 (s, 4H), 7.85 (d, 4H), 8.51 (d, 4H).
837 mg de 4-[bis-(2-hydroxy-éthyl)-amino]-benzaldéhyde, 328 µL de pyrrolidine, 232 µL d'acide acétique et 490 mg de dichlorure de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis[éthane-2,1-diylimino(2-oxoéthane-2,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthylpyridinium) sont mis en solution dans 10 mL d'isopropanol et maintenus agités à température ambiante pendant 3 h 30 min. Le mélange est versé sur 50 mL de solution de dichlorométhane / acétone 1 :1. Une huile décante, elle est séchée sous vide. 442 mg de poudre noire sont recueillis. Les analyses montrent que le produit est conforme.837 mg of 4- [bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzaldehyde, 328 μl of pyrrolidine, 232 μl of acetic acid and 490 mg of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis [ethane-2] dichloride; 1-diylimino (2-oxoethane-2,1-diyl)]} bis (4-methylpyridinium) are dissolved in 10 ml of isopropanol and kept stirred at room temperature for 3 h 30 min. The mixture is poured into 50 ml of 1: 1 dichloromethane / acetone solution. A decanted oil, it is dried under vacuum. 442 mg of black powder are collected. The analyzes show that the product is compliant.
19.88 g de 4-(3-hydroxypyrrolidin-1-yl)benzaldéhyde, 7.17g de pyrrolidine, 6.05g d'acide acétique et 24.8g de dichlorure de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis[éthane-2,1-diylimino(2-oxoéthane-2,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthylpyridinium) sont mis en solution dans 200 mL d'éthanol et maintenus agités à température ambiante pendant 48h. Le mélange est filtré, Ilavé avec 3 fois 100mL d'isopropanol. 43.19g de poudre noire sont recueillis puis recristallisés dans un mélange de 200 mL d'éthanol, 50 mL de méthanol et 25 mL d'eau. Après filtration et séchage sous vide, 35,8g de poudre rouge brique sont obtenus. Les analyses montrent que le produit est conforme.19.88 g of 4- (3-hydroxypyrrolidin-1-yl) benzaldehyde, 7.17 g of pyrrolidine, 6.05 g of acid acetic acid and 24.8 g of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (2-oxoethane-2,1-diyl)]} bis (4-methylpyridinium) are dissolved in 200 ml of ethanol and kept stirred at room temperature for 48h. The mixture is filtered, washed with 3 times 100 ml of isopropanol. 43.19 g of black powder are collected and then recrystallized from a mixture of 200 mL of ethanol, 50 mL of methanol and 25 mL of water. After filtration and drying under vacuum, 35.8 g of brick red powder are obtained. The analyzes show that the product is compliant.
60 g d'hydrochlorure de cystamine sont solubilisés dans 500 mL et refroidit à 5 °C. Le pH de 10 est atteint par addition de NaOH (30% aq.). A une solution de chlorure 4-chlorobutanoyl (105 g) dans du THF anhydre (500mL), est ajouté goutte à goutte du aq. NaOH (30%) de façon à maintenir le pH autour de 7. Après que la réaction soit stabilisée à un pH de 7, le mélange est laissé pendant 3 jours à température ambiante. La phase aqueuse est extraite par 3 x 500 m de dichlorométhane associé à la phase de THF puis séchée sur sulfate de sodium Na2SO4. Après filtration et séchage, 41 g de poudre blanche est recueillie. Les analyses sont en accord avec le produit attendu.60 g of cystamine hydrochloride are solubilized in 500 ml and cooled to 5 ° C. The pH of 10 is reached by the addition of NaOH (30% aq.). To a solution of 4-chlorobutanoyl chloride (105 g) in anhydrous THF (500 ml) is added dropwise aq. NaOH (30%) so as to maintain the pH around 7. After the reaction is stabilized at pH 7, the mixture is left for 3 days at room temperature. The aqueous phase is extracted with 3 × 500 m of dichloromethane combined with the THF phase and then dried over Na 2 SO 4 sodium sulphate. After filtration and drying, 41 g of white powder is collected. The analyzes are in agreement with the expected product.
30 g de N,N'-(disulfanediyldiéthane-2,1-diyl)bis(4-chlorobutanamide) sont dispercés dans 100 mL d'acétonitrile, 20.2 ml de 4-pioline sont ajoutés dans le mélange réactionnel sous agitation à 80 °C pour 2 jours. Après refroidissement à température ambiante, le solvant est évaporé et l'huile résultante est lavée plusieurs fois à l'acétate d'éthyle. 44.2g de solide marron clair sont obtenus. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du compose attendu.30 g of N, N '- (disulphanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (4-chlorobutanamide) are dispersed in 100 ml of acetonitrile, 20.2 ml of 4-piolin are added to the reaction mixture with stirring at 80 ° C. for 2 days. After cooling to room temperature, the solvent is evaporated and the resulting oil is washed several times with ethyl acetate. 44.2g of light brown solid are obtained. The analyzes are in agreement with the structure of the expected compound.
16.7 g d'acide acétique [(4-formylphényl)(méthyl)amino]acétique et 6.3 g de pyrrolidine sont mélanges dans 50 mL d'isopropanol à 80 °C. Après 15 min. d'agitation, 1.46 g de pyrrolidine sont ajoutés suivi de l'ajout d'une solution de 22.5 g de dichlorure de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis[éthane-2,1-diylimino(4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthylpyridinium) dans 100 mL d'isopropanol. Le mélange réactionnel est chauffé pendant 2 h. puis le mélange est refroidit à température ambiante, puis il est versé dans 1.4 L d'acétone. Un précipité se forme alors. Ce dernier est filtré sous argon, lavé 3 fois avec 170 mL d'acétone puis séché. Le solide résultant est dispersé dans 400 mL d'isopropanol et 400 mL d'eau puis 1.2L d'acétone sont ajoutés. L'huile résiduelle est dissoute dans 50 mL de méthanol et 750 mL d'acétone sont ajoutés. Une huile marron clair collante est triturée à l'aide de 500 mL d'acétone, filtrée et séchée. 20.5 g de poudre noire sont recueillis. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du produit attendu. NMR 1H CD3OD ppm : 2.33 (m, 4H), 2.48 (t, 4H), 2.98 (t, 4H), 3.31 (s, 6H), 3.59 (t, 4H), 4.54 (t, 4H), 6.83 (d, 4H), 6.99 (d, 2H), 7.59 (d, 4H) 7.75 (d, 2H), 7.86 ( d, 4H), 8.56 (d, 4H).16.7 g of [(4-formylphenyl) (methyl) amino] acetic acetic acid and 6.3 g of pyrrolidine are mixed in 50 ml of isopropanol at 80 ° C. After 15 min. 1.46 g of pyrrolidine are added followed by the addition of a solution of 22.5 g of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl) dichloride). )]} bis (4-methylpyridinium) in 100 mL of isopropanol. The reaction mixture is heated for 2 hours. then the mixture is cooled to room temperature, then it is poured into 1.4 L of acetone. A precipitate is formed then. The latter is filtered under argon, washed 3 times with 170 mL of acetone and dried. The resulting solid is dispersed in 400 mL of isopropanol and 400 mL of water and 1.2L of acetone are added. The residual oil is dissolved in 50 mL of methanol and 750 mL of acetone is added. A sticky light brown oil is triturated with 500 mL of acetone, filtered and dried. 20.5 g of black powder are collected. The analyzes are consistent with the expected product structure. NMR 1 H CD 3 OD ppm: 2.33 (m, 4H), 2.48 (t, 4H), 2.98 (t, 4H), 3.31 (s, 6H), 3.59 (t, 4H), 4.54 (t, 4H), 6.83 (d, 4H), 6.99 (d, 2H), 7.59 (d, 4H) 7.75 (d, 2H), 7.86 (d, 4H), 8.56 (d, 4H).
20g de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis[éthane-2,1-diylimino(4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthyl-pyridinium)dichloride, 1.8 mL de pipéridine et 16 g de 4-[bis-(2-hydroxy-éthyl)-amino]-benzaldéhyde sont mélangés ensemble dans 60 mL d'isopropanol à 70 °C pendant 18 h sous agitation. Après refroidissement à température ambiante le surnageant est retiré, l'huile résultante est lavée 3 fois dans de l'isopropanol chaud (100 mL, 2h à 80 °C). L'huile est diluée dans 500 mL d'eau, glacée et lyophilisée. 24 g de poudre rouge "floconneuse" sont recueillis. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du produit attendu. NMR 1H CD3OD ppm : 2.25 (m, 4H), 2.36 (t, 4H), 2.81 (t, 4H), 3.45 (t, 4H), 3.64 (t, 8H), 3.76 (t, 8H), 4.46 (t, 4H), 6.83 (d, 4H), 7.07 (d, 2H), 7.59 (d, 4H), 7.82 (d, 2H), 7.96 (d, 4H), 8.57 (d, 4H), LC/MS gradient ACONH4 20mM->CH3CN 10min ESI+ m/z=42920 g of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)]} bis (4-methylpyridinium) dichloride, 1.8 ml of piperidine and 16 g of 4- [bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzaldehyde are mixed together in 60 ml of isopropanol at 70 ° C. for 18 hours with stirring. After cooling to room temperature the supernatant is removed, the resulting oil is washed 3 times in hot isopropanol (100 mL, 2h at 80 ° C). The oil is diluted in 500 mL of water, iced and lyophilized. 24 g of "flocculent" red powder are collected. The analyzes are consistent with the expected product structure. NMR 1 H CD 3 OD ppm: 2.25 (m, 4H), 2.36 (t, 4H), 2.81 (t, 4H), 3.45 (t, 4H), 3.64 (t, 8H), 3.76 (t, 8H), 4.46 (t, 4H), 6.83 (d, 4H), 7.07 (d, 2H), 7.59 (d, 4H), 7.82 (d, 2H), 7.96 (d, 4H), 8.57 (d, 4H), LC / MS gradient ACONH 4 20mM-> CH 3 CN 10min ESI + m / z = 429
1.13 g de N,N'-(disulfanediyldiéthane-2,1-diyl)bis(4-chlorobutanamide) sont dispersés dans 0.5 mL de N-méthylpyrrolidinone et 2.5 mL d'acétonitrile, puis chauffés à 50 °C. 0.71 mL de picoline sont alors ajoutés et le mélange réactionnel est agité pendant 5 jours à 50 °C. Quelques milligrammes de carbonate de césium et 0.35 mL de 2-picoline sont ajoutés. Après 1 jour à 65 °C, le mélange réactionnel est versé dans 50 mL d'acétonitrile. La gomme résultante est lavée plusieurs fois à l'acétate d'éthyle, solubilisée dans de l'éthanol, filtrée et séchée sous vide. 0.95 g de solide beige sont recueillis. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du compose attendu. LC/MS gradient ACONH4 20mM->CH3CN 10min ESI+ m/z= 238 (dication)1.13 g of N , N '- (disulphanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (4-chlorobutanamide) are dispersed in 0.5 mL of N-methylpyrrolidinone and 2.5 mL of acetonitrile, and then heated at 50 ° C. 0.71 mL of picoline is then added and the reaction mixture is stirred for 5 days at 50 ° C. A few milligrams of cesium carbonate and 0.35 mL of 2-picoline are added. After 1 day at 65 ° C, the reaction mixture is poured into 50 mL of acetonitrile. The resulting gum is washed several times with ethyl acetate, solubilized in ethanol, filtered and dried under vacuum. 0.95 g of beige solid are collected. The analyzes are in agreement with the structure of the expected compound. LC / MS gradient ACONH 4 20mM-> CH 3 CN 10min ESI + m / z = 238 (dication)
0.35g d'acide [(4-formylphényl)(méthyl)amino]acétique, 0.47 g de dichlorure de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis-[éthane-2,1-diylimino(4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthylpyridinium) et 42µL de pipéridine sont mélangés dans 3 mL de méthanol à 70 °C pendant 2 h. Le mélange réactionnel est verse dans 25 mL d'acétate d'éthyle puis le précipité est filtré et séché. Un poudre noire est obtenue. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du produit attendu. LC/MS gradient ACONH4 20mM->CH3CN 10min ESI+ m/z=4130.35 g of [(4-formylphenyl) (methyl) amino] acetic acid, 0.47 g of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis- [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl) dichloride) ] bis (4-methylpyridinium) and 42 μL of piperidine are mixed in 3 mL of methanol at 70 ° C for 2 h. The reaction mixture is poured into 25 mL of ethyl acetate and the precipitate is filtered and dried. A black powder is obtained. The analyzes are consistent with the expected product structure. LC / MS gradient ACONH 4 20mM-> CH 3 CN 10min ESI + m / z = 413
0.37 g de 4-[bis-(2-hydroxy-éthyl)-amino]-benzaldéhyde, 0.47 g de dichlorure de 1,1'-{disulfanediylbis[éthane-2,1-diylimino(4-oxobutane-4,1-diyl)]}bis(4-méthylpyridinium) et 42µL de pipéridine sont ajoutés dans 3 mL méthanol à 70 °C pour 2 h. Le mélange réactionnel est verse dans 25 mL d'acétate d'éthyle et le précipité est filtré puis séché. Une poudre noire est obtenue. Les analyses sont en accord avec la structure du produit attendu. LC/MS gradient ACONH4 20mM->CH3CN 10 min ESI+ m/z=4290.37 g of 4- [bis- (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -benzaldehyde, 0.47 g of 1,1 '- {disulfanediylbis [ethane-2,1-diylimino (4-oxobutane-4,1-) dichloride) diyl)]} bis (4-methylpyridinium) and 42 μl of piperidine are added in 3 mL of methanol at 70 ° C for 2 h. The reaction mixture is poured into 25 mL of ethyl acetate and the precipitate is filtered and dried. A black powder is obtained. The analyzes are consistent with the expected product structure. LC / MS gradient ACONH 4 20mM-> CH 3 CN 10 min ESI + m / z = 429
Au moment de l'emploi, on mélange les compositions A (9 mL) et B (1 mL), puis on applique les formules sur mèches de cheveux blancs naturels à 90 % blancs (BN), blancs permanentés (BP) ou cheveux foncés de hauteur de ton 4 (HT4). Le temps de pose est 20 minutes à température ambiante TA.At the time of use, the compositions A (9 ml) and B (1 ml) are mixed, and then the formulas are applied to strands of natural white hair, 90% white (BN), permanent white (BP) or dark hair. of pitch 4 (HT4). The exposure time is 20 minutes at room temperature TA.
Après rinçage à l'eau courante on applique un fixateur (Dulcia Vital II®) dilué par 10 avec de l'eau pendant 5 minutes à TA. Après rinçage à l'eau courante et shampooing les mèches sont séchées à l'air on observe un éclaircissement des cheveux foncés ainsi traités : la mèche HT4 est devenue visuellement plus claire que des mèches témoins non traitées. Les mèches de cheveux blancs sont colorées avec des nuances intenses.After rinsing with running water a fixative (Dulcia Vital II®) diluted by 10 with water is applied for 5 minutes at RT. After rinsing with running water and shampoo, the locks are air-dried. The dark hair thus treated is brightened: the HT4 lock has become visually clearer than untreated control locks. The locks of white hair are colored with intense shades.
Lors du rinçage et des shampooings de l'exemple [1] il n'y a pas de dégorgement visible, la mousse des shampooings et les eaux de rinçage ne sont pratiquement pas colorées.During rinsing and shampooing of example [1] there is no visible bleeding, shampoo foam and rinsing water are virtually unstained.
La couleur observée est conservée sur les BN et BP colorés et l'effet d'éclaircissement reste visible sur les cheveux HT4 shampooinés.The observed color is conserved on the colored BN and BP and the lightening effect remains visible on shampooed HT4 hair.
Les mèches traitées sont lavées par une série de 24 shampooings. On observe que la mousse des shampooings n'est pas ou très peu colorée et que la couleur ne s'affadit pas dans le temps sur les mèches BN et BP. L'effet d'éclaircissement reste également intact.The treated locks are washed by a series of 24 shampoos. It is observed that the foam shampoos is not or very little color and that the color does not fade over time on the locks BN and BP. The lightening effect also remains intact.
Les performances d'éclaircissement des compositions conformes à l'invention ont été exprimées en fonction de la réflectance des cheveux. Ces réflectances sont comparées à la réflectance d'une mèche de cheveux non traitées de hauteur de ton HT4.The lightening performance of the compositions according to the invention were expressed as a function of the reflectance of the hair. These reflectances are compared to the reflectance of a lock of untreated HT4 pitch hair.
La réflectance est mesurée au moyen d'un appareil spectrophotocolorimètre KONIKA-MINOLTA ®, CM 3600d et après irradiation des cheveux avec une lumière visible dans la gamme de longueurs d'onde allant de 400 à 700 nanomètres. The reflectance is measured using a KONIKA-MINOLTA®, CM 3600d spectrophotocolorimeter and after irradiation of the hair with visible light in the wavelength range of 400 to 700 nanometers.
On constate tout d'abord que la réflectance d'une mèche de cheveux traitée avec une composition selon l'invention est supérieure à celle des cheveux non traités. Tout particulièrement la refléctance des mèches traitées avec le colorant [1] est nettement supérieure à celle de la mèche de référence dans la plage de longueur d'ondes supérieure à 580nm. Les mèches traitées par ce composé apparaissent donc plus claires. On constate également que l'effet est parfaitement conservé après 24 shampooings.It is firstly noted that the reflectance of a lock of hair treated with a composition according to the invention is greater than that of untreated hair. In particular, the reflectance of the strands treated with the dye [1] is significantly higher than that of the reference wick in the wavelength range greater than 580 nm. The locks treated with this compound therefore appear clearer. It is also noted that the effect is perfectly preserved after 24 shampoos.
La couleur des mèches été évaluée dans le système L*a*b* au moyen d'un spectrocolorimètre CM 3600D MINOLTA®, (Illuminant D65).The color of the locks was evaluated in the L * a * b * system using a MINOLTA® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (Illuminant D65).
Dans ce système L* a* b*, L* représente la luminosité, a* indique l'axe de couleur vert/rouge et b* l'axe de couleur bleu/jaune. Plus la valeur de L est élevée, plus la couleur est claire ou peu intense. Inversement, plus la valeur de L est faible, plus la couleur est foncée ou très intense. Plus la valeur de a* est élevée plus la nuance est rouge et plus la valeur de b* est élevée plus la nuance est jaune.In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the brightness, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The higher the L value, the lighter or less intense the color. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the color. The higher the value of a * the higher the shade is red and the higher the value of b * the hue is yellow.
La variation de la coloration entre les mèches de cheveux HT4, colorées et lavées est mesurée par (ΔE) selon l'équation suivante :
Dans cette équation, L*, a* et b* représentent les valeurs mesurées avant coloration et L0*, a0* et b0* représentent les valeurs mesurées avant coloration (ou shampooing).In this equation, L *, a * and b * represent the values measured before staining and L 0 *, a 0 * and b 0 * represent the measured values before staining (or shampooing).
Plus la valeur de ΔE est importante, plus la différence de couleur entre les mèches HT4 et les mèches colorées est importante.
Les cheveux blancs naturels et blancs permanentés sont colorées rouge orange vif. Les valeurs évoluent très peu après les shampooings, compte-tenu du nombre de shampoings successifs.The natural white and permed white hair is colored bright orange red. The values change very little after the shampoos, given the number of successive shampoos.
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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ES2532278T3 (en) | 2015-03-25 |
CN101418131A (en) | 2009-04-29 |
EP2070988A3 (en) | 2010-03-10 |
FR2921377A1 (en) | 2009-03-27 |
CN101418131B (en) | 2014-07-02 |
US20090172897A1 (en) | 2009-07-09 |
JP5745741B2 (en) | 2015-07-08 |
US7717964B2 (en) | 2010-05-18 |
JP2009144136A (en) | 2009-07-02 |
EP2070988B1 (en) | 2014-12-10 |
FR2921377B1 (en) | 2009-10-30 |
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