EP1315472A1

EP1315472A1 - Matt cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and an inert particulate phase

Info

Publication number: EP1315472A1
Application number: EP01965362A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Sabine Grimm
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2000-08-30
Filing date: 2001-08-28
Publication date: 2003-06-04
Also published as: WO2002017861A1; US20030082125A1; CN1394134A; FR2813184A1; JP2004507483A; FR2813184B1

Abstract

The invention concerns a cosmetic composition, for skin and/or skin appendage and/or lip care and/or make-up, in the form of an emulsion or an anhydrous gel, comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil having a mole weight ranging between 230 and 280 g/mol, a chemically inert particulate phase and optionally a non-volatile silicone compound compatible with the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil. The invention also concerns a method for care and make-up of the skin, skin appendages and lips using such a composition. More particularly, the invention consists in a matt, non-migrating and long-lasting skin make-up product comfortably worn in time.

Description

Matt cosmetic composition comprising a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and an inert particulate phase

The present invention relates to a composition containing a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and an inert particulate phase, intended in particular for the cosmetic field. More specifically, the invention relates to a non-migrating composition, of good hold, comfortable and matt for the care and / or make-up of the skin both of the face and of the human body, of the lips, of the lower or upper eyelids or more skin appendages like eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

This composition can be presented in particular in the form of a product cast in a stick or in a cup such as lipsticks or lip balms, cast foundations, concealer products, eyeshadows or blushes, in the form of paste or more or less fluid cream such as foundations or fluid lipsticks, eye liners, mascaras, artificial coloring or tanning compositions for the skin or even makeup for the body or the hair.

Makeup products for the skin or the lips of human beings such as foundations or lipsticks generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers and possibly additives such as cosmetic active agents. or dermatological. They may also contain so-called "pasty" products, of flexible consistency, making it possible to obtain pasta, colored or not, to be applied with a brush.

These compositions, when applied to the skin or the lips of the face, have the drawback of migrating, that is to say of spreading inside the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin which surround the lips and eyes, resulting in an unsightly effect. In addition, they exhibit poor resistance over time and in particular color. This poor behavior is characterized by a change in color (toning, paling) generally as a result of an interaction with the sebum and / or sweat of the skin and, for the lips, of an interaction with the saliva. Indeed, a composition that does not hold over time forces the user to wear makeup very often. To date, users wish to embellish their face and body by spending as little time as possible.

To increase the hold of a lipstick or a foundation, the Shiseido company considered in its patent application JP-A-61 -65809 make-up compositions containing a siloxysilicate resin (with three-dimensional network), a volatile silicone oil with cyclic silicone chain and powdery fillers. These compositions, although having improved hold properties have the drawback of leaving on the skin or the lips, after evaporation of the silicone oils, a film which very quickly becomes uncomfortable over time (feeling of drying, tightness and discomfort), removing a number of women from this type of makeup product.

However, consumers are always looking for a product, comfortable to wear throughout the day, which does not migrate very little or in the folds of the skin surrounding the lips or the eyes and which exhibits good resistance over time. .

In addition, a matt effect is very often sought for users with combination or oily skin, as well as in hot and humid climates. One of the objectives of foundations is to give the skin a healthy complexion, without giving the skin a greasy, shiny and shiny appearance. To do this, fillers are used, generally qualified as mattifying fillers, which are most often absorbent fillers such as talc, silica, kaolin or fillers having optical light scattering properties, properties known by the name "soft focus" effect. A foundation with matifying properties is described in particular in document US-A-5,288,481 from the company Procter and Gamble.

The higher the quantity of fillers, the higher the mat effect. Unfortunately, the fillers give the composition a rough feel and provide a feeling of "brake" on application which can lead to inhomogeneous makeup, which is not desirable, in particular when the surface to be made up is large; this is the case for the face or the human body. The addition to these compositions rich in fillers of a large amount of volatile silicone, generally greater than 20% of the total weight of the composition, facilitates their application to the skin or the lips and improves their feeling of slippery. But then, the feelings of tightness and discomfort appear.

There therefore remains the need for a composition which does not have the above drawbacks and which in particular has good sliding, holding and non-migration properties, while giving the deposit a matt appearance, adapted to the desire of the consumer, does not dry out and does not tighten the skin or the lips to which it is applied, -as well during application as over time.

The Applicant has found, quite surprisingly, that the use of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil of low molecular mass associated with fillers, in a physiologically acceptable and more especially cosmetic composition, makes it possible to obtain a mat deposit, very good hold, does not migrate, while being very pleasant to apply and to wear throughout the day. The deposit is flexible and smooth. In addition, the composition obtained is easy to apply, slippery and without feeling of "brake".

The present invention therefore relates to a composition for caring for or making up keratin materials, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280 g / mol, at least one coloring matter and an inert particulate phase.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention contains less than 15% by weight of volatile silicone and more generally of volatile solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still less than 10% by weight.

By "oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg).

By "non-volatile" is meant a medium capable of remaining on the skin or the lips for at least a few hours. A non-volatile environment has in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa).

By "volatile" is meant a medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips in less than an hour. A volatile medium is especially chosen from mediums having a vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.02 mm to 300 mm Hg (2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa), and more particularly from 0.1 to 90mm Hg (13 Pa to 12000 Pa). In addition, volatile silicones generally have a viscosity of less than 5 cSt, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

By inert "particulate phase" is meant any solid filler at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, used alone or in combination which does not react chemically with the various ingredients of the composition and which are insoluble in these ingredients, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature higher than room temperature.

Thus, the composition may contain one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of low molecular weight.

This composition is in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It therefore contains ingredients compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, lips, keratin fibers and nails. It can be in the form of an anhydrous gel, an emulsion or an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) dispersion or else in the form of a multiple emulsion. It can also be in more or less fluid form, a paste or non-deformable or rigid solid, optionally cast in stick or in a cup. Preferably, it is in fluid form, in particular in the form of an emulsion. By "fluid" is meant a composition flowing under its own weight, unlike a solid.

The low molecular weight hydrocarbon non-volatile oil or oils according to the invention play the role of non-volatile solvent. They are in particular in the form of an ester resulting in particular from the esterification of acid with alcohols in C ₂ to C1. ₅ , C ₂ to C ₈ polyols and their mixtures. Preferably, the acid is a branched chain acid such as neopentanoic acid. Thus, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises in particular a saturated and branched hydrocarbon chain.

Advantageously, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate (242.4 g / Mol), isotridecyl neopentanoate (270 g / Mol) and their mixtures. Octyl isononanoate (270.44 g / Mol), isopropyl myristate (270.46 g / Mol), ethyl 2-hexyl 2-ethyl hexanoate (256.43 g / Mol) and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition also comprises at least one non-volatile silicone compound. Also, the composition according to the invention therefore advantageously comprises one or more physiologically acceptable silicone non-volatile compounds.

According to the invention, the non-volatile silicone compound and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil are compatible with each other. Thus, the non-volatile oil dissolves or disperses the non-volatile silicone compound. The deposit obtained on the skin is homogeneous, mat, comfortable and flexible. It does not migrate in fine lines around the lips and eyes in particular.

Advantageously, the composition contains at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents and their mixtures. Thanks to the particulate phase and to the particular non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, it is possible to limit or even eliminate the migration of the composition and in particular of its active agents and / or its coloring matters and therefore to increase the resistance over time. of said composition, while remaining comfortable and matt. The low molecular weight of the hydrocarbon oil facilitates its penetration into the skin and the lips.

Another subject of the invention is the use in a cosmetic composition or for the manufacture of a composition for topical application, of the combination of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280 g / mol and of an inert particulate phase, in order to increase the resistance of a film of composition deposited on the skin and / or the lips of a human being and / or to preserve its dullness and / or to impart comfort to said film, and / or to limit its migration and / or to provide slipperiness and / or improve the application properties of the composition.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for or making up the skin, the lips or the integuments, comprising applying to the skin, the lips or the integuments, respectively, a cosmetic composition as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also a method for increasing the hold of a makeup or care composition for the skin or the lips and / or increasing the mattness and / or the comfort of said composition and / or for reducing the migration of this composition and / or to improve its application properties, containing at least one ingredient chosen from coloring matters, cosmetic or dermatological active agents and their mixtures, consisting in introducing into said composition the association containing at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil molecular weight ranging from 230 to 280g / Mol and at least one inert particulate phase as defined above.

It has also been found that the composition according to the invention has particularly advantageous qualities of spreading and adhesion to the skin and the lips, as well as a smooth and pleasant touch. This composition also has the advantage of removing makeup easily, in particular with a conventional cleansing milk. This is quite remarkable since the compositions of the prior art considered to be long-lasting are very difficult to remove, which introduces an additional constraint for the user.

The silicone non-volatile compounds of the invention must be soluble or dispersible in the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) of low molecular weight and in particular in the non-volatile esters. They are preferably chosen from compounds which are liquid at room temperature and moreover more preferably, they have a viscosity in the range from 5 to 1,000,000 cSt at 25 ° C and better from 10 to 500,000 cSt, and better from 10 to 5,000 cSt.

As examples of silicone compounds, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicones, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, silicone resins such as those described in documents JP-A-62-61911, JP-A-61-65809 and EP-A - 602905, fluorinated silicones and their mixtures.

In particular, these silicone compounds are chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms in which all or part of the hydrogens are substituted by fluorine atoms; silicone resins; silicone gums; dimethiconols; and their mixtures.

The mass content of non-volatile silicone compound in the final composition is, for example, in the range from 0.5 to 90% and preferably from 5 to 60% and even better preferably from 10 to 50%.

The quantities of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils of low molecular mass and of particulate phase are such that they confer on the composition properties of resistance, non-migration, comfort, slippery and mattness.

In practice, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil or oils according to the invention represent in particular a mass content of 5 to 99%, preferably from 10 to 70% and better still from 20 to 50%.

The composition may, in addition, contain at least one additional fatty substance other than the non-volatile silicone compound and the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, chosen from waxes, gums, pasty fatty substances at room temperature, oils and their mixtures, this or these fatty substances being of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin.

The additional oily fatty substances of the composition may be a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable oil, and generally physiologically acceptable oil, in particular chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, volatile or non-volatile.

As additional oils used in ^'the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene;

- vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grapeseed oils, sesame or rapeseed, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids such as oils of formula R ₃ COOR ₄ in which R ₃ represents the remainder of a higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₄ represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R ₃ + R ₄ > 17 such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, tri-isocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol di-octanoate, neopentyl glycol di-heptanoate, di- di-ethylene glycol isononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyia tetra-isostearate;

- fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecylpenta decanol, oleic alcohol; - optionally volatile fluorinated oils, partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as methoxynonafluorobutane;

- volatile silicone oils such as volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms pendant or at the end of the silicone chain such as octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, hexadecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, Pheptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyl octyltrisiloxane and their mixtures;

- their mixtures.

The non-volatile oil or oils of the composition may represent from 0.1% to 90% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 5 to 60%.

The composition also contains an inert particulate phase containing at least one inert filler, absorbent or not, that is to say one or more inert fillers, in particular oil-absorbing and / or mattifying. Preferably, these fillers have an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 μm and better still from 0.5 to 150 μm. An apparent diameter corresponds to the diameter of the circle in which the elementary particle is inscribed according to its smallest dimension (thickness for lamellae).

The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar, spherical or oblong. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon® (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyl-lysine, boron nitride, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), carbonate of precipitated calcium, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules and their mixtures.

Preferably, the fillers are porous in order to absorb the sweat and / or sebum secreted by the skin, such as silica, polyethylene powder, Nylon®, kaolin, starch derivatives, Polytrap®.

The particulate filler can advantageously represent from 3 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 25% and better still from 10 to 20%.

The composition of the invention comprises one or more coloring matters advantageously containing at least (one or more) pulverulent coloring compounds and / or one or more liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, for example in an amount of 0.01 to 70% of the total weight of the composition and in particular from 0.05 to 70%. The powdery dye compound (s) can be chosen from pigments, nacres, usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions and their mixtures. Advantageously, the pulverulent coloring compounds represent up to 50% of the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 50% and better still from 1 to 40%.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, interference or not, insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, l hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned carbon black, pigments of the D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The fat-soluble dyes are for example Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. They can represent from 0 to 20% and in particular 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue and can represent up to 6% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may, in addition, contain one or more cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as those conventionally used.

As cosmetic or dermatological active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers such as polyols, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, sun filters. These active agents are used in the usual amount for those skilled in the art and in particular at concentrations of 0 to 20% and in particular from 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can, moreover, comprise, depending on the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields under consideration, which are present in an amount suitable for the desired dosage form.

Among the solid waxes at room temperature, which may be present in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, optionally modified, Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricoury wax, Japan, cork or sugar cane waxes, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, Montan wax, ozokerites, polyethylene waxes, synthetic synthesis waxes Fischer-Tropsch and C ₂ o-C ₆ fatty alcohols. Silicone waxes can also be used, among which mention may be made of alkyl, alkoxy and / or polymethylsiloxane esters and their mixtures. The waxes can be present in an amount of 0-50% (for example from 0.01 to 50%) by weight in the composition and better still from 5 to 20%.

As pasty fatty substances, mention may be made of fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 25 to 45 ° C and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s measured with Contraves TV equipped with a mobile MS-r3 or Ms-r4 rotating at 60 Hz. As an example of pasty fatty substances, mention may be made of PDMS having pendant chains of the alkyl type _. or alkoxy having 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as stearyl dimethicone; fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters such as cholesterol esters, vinyl polylaurate, arachidyl propionate; PVP / Eicosene copolymer; lanolins and their derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolines; and their mixtures.

The nature and quantity of waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums depend on the mechanical properties and textures sought.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared in the usual manner by a person skilled in the art. They can be in the form of a cast product and for example in the form of a stick or stick or in the form of a cup usable by direct contact or with a sponge or in a hot water bottle. In particular, they find application as a poured foundation, blush or eyeshadow, lipstick, base or lip care balm, concealer product. They can also be in the form of a flexible paste or else a gel, a more or less fluid cream. They can then constitute foundations or matte reds, sunscreen or skin coloring products.

The compositions of the invention advantageously contain an aqueous phase. They can then be presented in particular in the form of a single or multiple emulsion with an oily or aqueous continuous phase, of oily dispersion in an aqueous phase using vesicles containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids or also in the form of vesicular dispersion containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. They can also be in the form oily gel, oily liquid, paste or stick. These dosage forms are prepared according to the usual methods of the fields considered.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention constitutes a makeup composition, in particular of the skin and more especially, a foundation. This foundation is perfectly suited to oily or combination skin and to hot and humid climates.

Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, that is to say of a composition containing an aqueous phase and a liquid fatty phase, one of which is two _. phases is dispersed in the other phase with or without emulsifier, the whole being homogeneous with the naked eye.

The aqueous phase is a phase immiscible with hydrocarbon and silicone oils, mentioned above, containing water optionally thickened or gelled with one or more thickeners or gelling agents of aqueous phase and optionally containing compounds miscible with water, such as alcohols lower in C ₂ to C ₇ , polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups and from 2 to 10 carbon atoms such as glycerol, propylene glycol, D-panthenol, polyethylene glycols. The aqueous phase represents in particular 0.1 to 90% of the total weight of the composition, preferably 5 to 80% and better still 15 to 70%.

The emulsion according to the invention can be obtained by using an emulsifying agent or a mixture of emulsifying agents whose HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) is adapted to the direction of the emulsion.

As an emulsifier which can be used in the invention, suitable for obtaining a W / O emulsion, mention may be made of those having a lower HLB 7 and in particular the fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, glycerol or polyethylene glycol laurates; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or alkoxy chain hanging or at the end of the silicone skeleton having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. As an emulsifier which can be used in the invention for obtaining an emulsion M / W mention may be made of those having an HLB greater than 7 such as the fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (polyethylene glycol monostearate or monolaurate); esters of fatty acids (stearate, oleate) of polyoxyethylene sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols. In general, any amphoteric ionic (cationic or anionic) emulsifier and any nonionic emulsifier well known to those skilled in the art can be used.

The composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen in particular from surfactants, ^'oil thickeners, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, electrolytes ( cation or polycations), fillers, waxes, pasty products at room temperature, neutralizers, liposoluble or dispersible polymers in the medium, cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, fatty acids essentials, sun filters, dispersants such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. These additives can be present in the composition at a rate of 0 to 20% (in particular from 0.01 to 20%) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.01 to 10%. Advantageously, the composition contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition considered. These compositions for topical application may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition, for protection, treatment or care for the face, for the neck, for the hands or for the body (for example care cream, sun oil, body gel). , a makeup composition (for example makeup gel, cream, stick) or an artificial tanning or skin protection composition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. The percentages are percentages by weight. Example 1: Fluid foundation of the O / W type

Isodecyl neopentanoate 13.50%

Coated yellow iron oxide 1, 4%

0.5% coated brown iron oxide

0.2% coated black iron oxide

3.9% coated titanium anatase oxide

0.15% butyl p-hydroxybenzoate

0.4% methyl p-hydroxybenzoate

Magnesium sulfate 1.0%

Nylon powder 12 6.0%

4.0% polyethylene powder

Mixture of crosslinked polyoxyethylenated PDMS 12.5% and PDMS of 6 cSt

Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (20cSt) 9.0%

Mixture of PDMS with 3.0% alpha-omega hydroxyl groups and of PDMS 5 cSt

Poly methylketyl dimethylsiloxane 6.0%

(PM *: 900 - viscosity: 15-25 cSt)

Propylene glycol 3.0%

Hexa-glycerol 2.0%

Polyethylene glycol (20 EO) ** 1.7%

Polyethelene glycol (8 EO) ** 3.0%

Demineralized water qs 100%

PM stands for number average molecular weight OE stands for ethylene oxide

Example 2: O / W Fluid Foundation • Isodecyl neopentanoate 14.0%

• Polyethylene glycol (32 EO) ** 9.3%

• 9.3% polyethylene powder

• Propylene glycol 6.5%

• Titanium dioxide 5.6%

• Stearic acid 1.9%

• Mixture of iron oxides yellow, brown and black 1, 4%

• Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.1%

• Triethanolamine: 0.9%

• 0.6% polyethylene glycol stearate

• 0.3% glycerol stearate

• 0.2% sodium lauroyl sarcosinate

• 0.1% methyl p-hydroxybenzoate

• Butyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1%

• Ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.6%

• Glycerin 0.02 _%

• Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.02>%

• Water qs 100%

^* * OE stands for ethylene oxide

The foundations of examples 1 and 2 lead to a mattifying, comfortable make-up, easy to apply, slippery and non-greasy. The color of the makeup holds up well over time. Migration in wrinkles around the eyes is low.

Example 3: Fluid foundation M / W

The isodecyl neopentanoate of the foundation of Example 2 was replaced by isodridecyl neopentanoate. The matting, comfort, hold and application properties of these two foundations are identical. Against example 1: O / W foundation

The foundation of Example 2 was compared to a foundation according to the prior art containing, in place of isodecyl neopentanoate, a cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane (6cSt), by a panel of experts. The two foundations have been judged to confer the same matt appearance on the skin of the face, with a feeling of slippery and comfort twice greater for the foundation of the invention compared to that of the prior art and color fastness increased over time.

Against example 2: O / W foundation

The foundation of Example 2 was compared to a foundation in which isodecyl neopentanoate was replaced by isononyl isononanoate. The hold and matting properties were judged to be better by a panel of experts for the foundation of example 2 compared to that of against example 2.

Claims

1. A composition for caring for or making up keratin materials, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280 g / mol, at least one coloring matter and an inert particulate phase.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is an ester.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises a saturated and branched hydrocarbon chain.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is an ester of branched neopentanoic acid.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil non-volatile hydrocarbon is chosen from C ₂ alcohol esters to C _5, the C ₂ to Cs polyol esters and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, octyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethyl 2-ethyl hexanoate and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil represents a mass rate of 5 to 99%, preferably from 10 to 70% and better still from 20 to 50%.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particulate phase contains at least one inert absorbent and / or mattifying filler.

10. Composition according to claim 9, characterized in that the inert filler is chosen from spherical, lamellar, oblong fillers and their mixtures.

11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the inert filler is chosen from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres, copolymers of acrylic acid, microbeads of silicone resin, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydro-carbonate magnesium, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules and their mixtures.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the filler has an apparent diameter ranging from 0.01 to 150 μm.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the filler has an apparent diameter of 0.5 to 150 μm.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particulate phase represents from 3 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 25% and better still from 10 to 20%.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 15% by weight of volatile oil, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still less than 10% by weight.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile silicone compound.

17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the non-volatile silicone compound is chosen from compounds which are liquid at room temperature.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 16 or 17, in which the non-volatile silicone compound has a viscosity chosen from the range from 5 to 1,000,000 cSt and preferably ranging from 10 to 500,000 cSt.

19. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 18, in which the non-volatile silicone compound is chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) _. . polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms in which all or part of the hydrogens are substituted by fluorine atoms; silicone resins; silicone gums; dimethiconols; and their mixtures.

20. Composition according to one of claims 16 to 19, characterized in that the non-volatile silicone compound represents a mass content of 0.5 to 90%, preferably from 5 to 60% and better still from 10 to 50%.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic active agents, dermatological active agents and their mixtures is provided.

22. Composition according to one of claims 6 to 21, further comprising at least one additional fatty substance other than the non-volatile silicone compound and the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, chosen from waxes, gums, fatty substances pasty at room temperature, oils, emulsifiers and mixtures thereof.

23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the coloring material comprises at least one pulverulent coloring compound chosen from pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

24. Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the pulverulent coloring compound represents up to 50% of the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a stick or stick, in the form of a flexible paste, in the form of a cup, of oily gel, of oily liquid, of vesicular dispersion containing lipids. ionic and / or non-ionic, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion or multiple emulsion.

26. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one aqueous phase.

27. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion.

28. Composition according to one of claims 26 or 27, characterized in that the aqueous phase represents from 0.1 to 90% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 80% and better still from 15 to 70%.

29. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a makeup composition.

30. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a foundation, a blusher or an eyeshadow, a lipstick, a base or a balm for caring for lips, concealer, eyeliner, mascara.

31. Composition for making up the skin and more especially a foundation, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280 g / Mol, at least one coloring matter and one inert particulate phase.

32. A method of cosmetic care or of making up the lips or the skin, consisting in applying respectively to the lips or the skin a cosmetic composition as defined in the preceding claims.

33. Use in a cosmetic composition or for topical application, of the combination of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280 g / mol and of an inert particulate phase, to increase the resistance of a composition film deposited on the skin and / or the lips of a human being and / or to retain its dullness and / or to give comfort to said film and / or to limit its migration and / or to provide slipperiness and / or improve application properties of the composition.

34. Use according to claim 33, characterized in that the composition contains at least one non-volatile silicone compound.

35. Method for increasing the hold of a makeup or care composition for the skin or the lips and / or increasing the mattness and / or the comfort of said composition and / or for reducing the migration of this composition and / or improving its application properties, containing at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, coloring matters and their mixtures, consisting in introducing into the composition the association containing at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil of molecular mass ranging from 230 to 280g / Mol and an inert particulate phase.