EP1025766B1 - Elastic interlining, method for making it and its use - Google Patents

Abstract

The elastic fusible interlining material is a woven or knitted fabric or a woven with an added weft insert. A filament yarn is used for the warps and/or wefts, and an adhesive coating is applied to one surface. The uncoated surface is roughened. The filament yarns have a thickness of 15-440 dtex or 30-180 dtex. They are additionally twisted at a rate of 20-1000 twists/m or 100-400 twists/m. An Independent claim is included for a mfg. process where the fabric is woven or knitted, with a filament yarn weft insert if required. The fabric is washed and shrunk, followed by any required dyeing. The fabric is thermo-stabilized, one surface is coated with an adhesive and the other surface is roughened. Preferred Features: The surface is roughened by rubbing with emery paper, wound in a spiral round a roller to rotate against the fabric. The emery paper has a grain size of 40-1000 and pref. 100-500. The surface is roughened before the other surface is coated with adhesive, during a finishing stage. Or it can be after the adhesive has been applied to one surface. At the roughening stage, a number of emery rollers can be used, powered independently of each other, rotating in independent directions with or against the direction of fabric travel.

Description

This invention relates to an elastic insert Process for their preparation and their use.

Deposits have been in use for many years Clothing industry, especially to strengthen the Front of clothing or to reinforce Collars and cuffs used. These deposits exist from a carrier used as a woven, knitted or nonwoven can be formed, and usually from one thermoplastic adhesive in the form of a grid is applied, this adhesive with an adhesive the outer fabric of the clothing.

Such deposits have the task of making the garment to shape and stabilize according to shape. Since they are with the Are glued, they influence the character of the finished garment in a decisive way. The optics, Dimensional stability, softness, comfort and the Care properties when cleaning and hanging laundry crucial to the type and structure of the used Deposit from. Particularly important properties of the Clothing is the look, the handle and that Care behavior of the finished item of clothing.

The garments must also keep up with the changing fashion trends correspond. Therefore, the most varied and different outer fabrics used. Accordingly are usually also different types of deposits Reinforcement of these different outer fabrics used.

Staple fiber yarns made of viscose (CV), cotton (CO), polyester (PES), polyacrylonitrile (PAN) or mixtures thereof are usually used for conventional fabric-based inlays. The fineness of the yarns used is usually between 10 and 200 Nm. The weight of these inserts is usually in the range from 35 to 140 g / m ² . The tissues produced in this way are either crosslinked by cellulose crosslinking agents or thermally shrink-stabilized. By roughening or sanding one side of the fabric, the densest possible fiber pile is produced on the surface of the insert, thus achieving a high softness and volume as well as a closed nature of the insert. This is crucial for the handle of the finished part. The non-roughened fabric side is then coated with an adhesive, preferably hot-melt adhesive, by known methods. When the insert is glued to the outer fabric, the fibrous web on the back also prevents the melt adhesive mass from penetrating through the insert towards the side of the lining material.

Similar inlays are also commonly known as knitted fabrics. in the The staple fiber yarns already mentioned above are shot CV, CO, PES, PAN or mixtures thereof are used. The chain is usually formed from fine filament yarns that preferably consist of polyester or polyamide and a Have fineness in the range of 25 dtex to 78 dtex. Also here is the side not coated with hot melt adhesive roughened to give a soft feel and high volume achieve and setback of the coating by the To prevent insert through.

Nonwovens are also used as carrier materials for inlays. The weight of such inserts, which are used for the front fixing of clothing, is usually between 20 and 80 g / m ² . As a rule, the consolidation takes place thermally by means of calender rolls engraved in a grid. The nonwovens are often additionally reinforced with warp and / or weft threads, which can be knitted in. These threads also consist of the fine filament yarns mentioned above or of textured polyester filaments. These nonwovens can be coated with hot melt adhesives. The fleece character means that the risk of the coating kicking back through the outer fabric is usually low. However, it is disadvantageous in any case that this type of insert does not have the volume and soft feel of the above-mentioned roughened insert.

EP-A-0 810 314 proposes another type of rigid insert made from air-textured yarns to add volume and soft feel receive. Similar to what is known from plush finishing, woven and knitted fabrics with loops are used. The Loops are created through the use of air-textured PES yarns. The yarns made after this special Texturing processes are made up of two Thread systems. A soul thread ensures stability. Close the loops made of air-textured PES fancy yarns the product image and ensure a soft grip. The yarns the resulting insoles are not elastic. The loop structure also entangles the Product lines with each other.

Furthermore, such a restless and uneven Hardly any surface with the most common coating processes for Fixing inserts, the paste-litter colon process coat. Therefore, the loops should be treated afterwards necessary to have a more even surface receive.

These loops are, like from other areas of the Textile equipment has long been known mechanically through Roughing, sanding or brushing aligned and opened or burned down by singeing. However, that's just it Knoting the loops is an extremely critical process of what the Process security concerns. It can be too Discoloration of the textile goods is coming. In addition, the hardens Handle through enamel beads attached to the ends of the fibers arise. This may lead to a requirement further aftercare. These are additional too Operations such as singeing and sanding with additional costs connected. Overall, such deposits have so far been possible not prevail in the market.

All the deposits described above have in common that they against tensile loads in the longitudinal and transverse directions are largely rigid and not very elastic. A minor one The elasticity of the insert is high with mechanical Stress possible. However, this stretch mimicks the load only incomplete. This lack The elasticity of the well-known insoles represents a serious problem Disadvantage.

Such a well-known insert with an outer fabric connected, the insert is not able to Dimensional change of the outer fabric by heat, during washing, by solvents during cleaning or by external forces follow what leads to wrinkles on the finished garment, a partial detachment of the insert or too wavy Deformations and dents can result. This will Use value of the garment severely impaired. This problem is particularly serious with modern mono- or bi-elastic outer fabrics, due to their elastane content tremendous dimensional changes when fixing and damping subject.

An attempt is now being made to avoid the detachments and by increased amount of adhesive applied to the adhesive increase, the adhesive can also be used to fix the insert the outer fabric through the insert and / or the outer fabric penetrate. As a result, not only the fixing press is used in the Ready-made soiled and the smooth running of the Fixation disrupted by sticking cut pieces, but it also becomes the handle and thus the value of the goods of these items of clothing.

For this reason, the amount of adhesive applied is not could be increased, the attempt was made in the With regard to their shrinkage behavior at the respective Adjust outer fabric. However, in practice this is the Apparel industry almost impossible because there are so many different outer fabrics with the most varied Properties are processed, the clothing industry but is forced to join for economic reasons as few different insert types as possible Cover the outer fabric range. In addition, with this type of rigid inserts on elastic outer fabrics no satisfactory fixation result can be achieved because the Properties of insert and outer fabric too different are.

In order to avoid these disadvantages, a different type of fixation insert has been developed in recent years. These are characterized by the use of false-wire textured polyester filament yarns with a fineness of 20 to 400 dtex as weft threads. The warp can be constructed in a similar way to that described above for the known rigid inserts, but it can also be made from textured polyester yarns with a fineness between 25 and about 167 dtex. Such an insert is described in DE 93 198 70 U1. The woven or knitted backing is in turn coated with hot melt adhesives by known methods. The weight of these inserts is usually between 35 and 120 g / m ² .

The properties of the fixation inserts are crucial Dimensions of the properties of the false wire textured Embossed polyester filament yarns. These textured false wires Polyester filament yarns are highly elastic because of them very easily with tensile loads in warp and Stretch the weft direction as well as in the diagonal pull. After the end these yarns almost sweep into the tensile load original condition. The elasticity in Shot direction is usually 12-25%, but can be can be increased by up to 40%. The elasticity is in the warp direction ideally 6-8%. There are also elasticity values up to 15% is known, however, for achieving this high Elasticity value when processing in the Apparel industry requires an increased effort.

Due to the elasticity of this insert, it is able to the dimensional change of the outer fabric by heat when Wash, by solvent when cleaning or by Follow external forces closely. The disadvantages mentioned above the rigid, roughened insert is thus avoided. This Kind of deposits is therefore, especially if they are in chain and Weft of textured polyester yarn are made on many various outer fabrics can be used almost universally.

Due to the crimping of the textured polyester yarns also a high volume, which prevents the Hot melt adhesive when fixing with the outer fabric through the Folds back towards the lining side.

Textured polyester yarns are also used in combination with a fleece used. Such an insert is described in DE 44 08 813 C1. Through a steaming process Elasticity of the nonwoven composite, at least in the warp direction guaranteed. Main task of the reinforcement threads textured polyester yarns or bicomponent filament yarns is to get the desired elasticity generate and at the same time the destruction of the fleece To prevent tensile loads.

A disadvantage of this type of deposits is that textured polyester filament yarn or Bicomponent filaments cannot be roughened because no filament ends available for filament roughening stand. Therefore, the grip failure of the insert cannot soft feel and the elegance of a rigid, roughened Reach deposit.

Gradual improvements were made through the use of textured microfiber yarns achieved by the Fineness of each filament a softer feel should enable (see. EP 0 481 867 A1). Also are elaborate constructions e.g. known from EP 0 289 378 A1, which in addition to warp and weft, each made textured polyester yarns exist, a third Introduce thread system made of roughened, non-elastic Yarns like those found in classic, napped inserts are used. But this will not do that Product image of a rigid, roughened insert achieved, since that Basic problem continues, namely that the elastic Thread systems can still not be roughened.

Because of this, the grip failure of this elastic Fixing inserts and the finished garment above all for the high-quality fashion range compared to classic roughened insoles as too synthetic, dry and artificial assessed.

DE 196 44 111 uses the to solve this problem Use of multi-component fibers of the side-by-side type proposed. This solves the grip problems. However, these fibers are expensive and in very fine fiber titers (Single-filament titer <2dtex), which is particularly useful for one soft grip are necessary, only in small quantities worldwide available. This makes a wide commercial use of Deposits made from such fibers are currently not possible. Farther is the dimensional stability of this insert with any Outer fabric materials are not always satisfactory.

JP-A-7-109647 describes a warp-knitted insert in which Weft threads are embedded, which has an elasticity of 4 to 7%. Such deposits have good properties for the sewing process. The elasticity should not exceed 7%, because otherwise there is insufficient dimensional stability. As a weft thread is special preferably a voluminous filament yarn and an alternating spinning yarn used, a combination 1: 1 and 1: 2 is preferred, because otherwise a stripe-like Impression can arise.

JP-A-6-240568 describes an interlining base fabric made of a fabric, the warp and / or Weft threads consist of a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn; the one Has twist coefficients between 2000 and 8000 and that by scratching with a ruffled body has received pebble grinding. This insert stretches little and leaves therefore sew well without any tendency to wrinkle at the seams.

The object of this invention is a price to develop competitive elastic insert that the low shrinkage values and good care properties of the Inserts made of false-wire textured PES yarns with the combines the soft feel of a classic roughened insert. In addition, a method for the production of such Deposit and particularly favorable uses become.

Surprisingly, this is achieved by using commercially available filament yarns, the ones made from such Filament yarn produced elastic insert in particular roughened by sanding.

Preferred configurations of the insert according to the invention are specified in claims 2 to 8.

This invention also describes a method for Production of an elastic insert with the characteristics of Claim 9.

The insert according to the invention is preferred for reinforcement of clothing, in particular the front part or Reinforcement of collars and cuffs used.

False-wire textured textiles are preferred as filament yarns Polyester (PES) -, polyamide (PA) - and / or polyacrylic (PAN) - Yarns used.

False wire textured yarns are in the inlay production already known for a long time. The false wire texturing produces highly elastic yarns with high extensibility and large Bausch volume. These yarns can now also be used as in a woven, knitted or knitted fabric with weft insertion be incorporated.

With conventional completion and finishing the elastic inserts mentioned above, however often feel dry and synthetic because the Filament character determines the handle.

The inserts produced according to the invention, however, have the same elasticity, but at the same time have the soft, fluffy handle of the classic insert. This is possible by that described in the present invention Equipment process in which the handle of the false filament textured filaments is mechanically destroyed and thus many protruding fibers arise, the optics and Let the handle of a roughened insert be made of fiber yarn.

The textile support on which the present invention is based can be a woven, knitted or knitted fabric with weft insertion and has a weight of preferably 15 g / m ² - 125 g / m ² . Preferably, at least the weft or warp, more preferably warp and weft, is made of false-wire textured PES, PA or PAN filament yarns. The yarn count of the false wire textured PES, PA and PAN filament yarns is usually between dtex 15 and dtex 440, more preferably between 30 and 180 dtex.

For fabrics, the usual for all fixation inserts Types of weave, such as plain weave, cross twill 2/2, Cross twill 3/1 or Atlas can be used. Especially however, the variants in which the False wire textured yarns are present in floats.

In the case of knitted and knitted fabrics with weft insertion, the well-known bindings continue to be used.

The raw fabrics thus produced are subjected to a washing and / or shrinking process as usual. Heat and moisture allow the yarns to shrink and achieve maximum elasticity. Then, if necessary, a dyeing process and thermal stabilization are carried out on the stenter. Finally, these products are coated with an adhesive, preferably with a thermoplastic hot melt adhesive or with a reactive coating composition, using the customary coating methods. The application can take the form of a grid, the grid being between 1 point / cm ² and 200 points / cm ² . Grids between 40 and 150 dots / cm ² are preferably used.

To the roughened grip effect according to the invention Achieving classic deposits will be an additional one mechanical finishing process, namely roughening, preferred Sanding introduced.

Sanding as a finishing effect comes especially from the Manufacture of imitation suede and "peach skin" equipment for use on fabrics and knitwear. The Sanding is a variant of roughening and is done on one Emery machine performed. The surface of the web is specifically targeted by a Roughened on one or more emery rolls. The Goods thus have a velvety character, which is characterized by the use of different types of emery paper can be controlled. Roughening can be a common Emery machine, e.g. one made from H.K. Rouette, Lexicon for textile finishing, Laumann-Verlag Dülmen, 1995, pages 1909, 1910.

The emery paper is preferably made of a flexible Carriers such as paper, latex paper, tissue, foils, fleece or Combination fibers with evenly sprinkled abrasive grain and is spiraled onto the at least one emery roller wound. These rollers can work independently be driven and optionally with or against the goods run grind.

In addition to the direction of rotation of the rollers, fabric tension and -speed the emery process by the in Sandpaper used grain types as well as the grain to be influenced. In practice, the following are common Grain types used: silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, Zirconium corundum, ceramic and diamond.

The grain size is dependent on the amount of granules Area unit determined and can be in the range of 40-1000 being preferred in the goods described according to the invention a grain size in the range of 100-500 was used. The Grinding of the granules causes the Fiber ends on the surface of the goods and thus gives it a velor-like character.

Such a roughened insert is for the person skilled in the art surprising in that filaments have neither fiber ends - as with the staple fiber yarns of the classic interlining articles - still loops - as with polar articles with special Goods construction or with air-textured yarns - for Are available that are sanded or erected can.

Rather, the fiber ends need for a soft and roughened handle are necessary to be generated only by the filaments are torn in many places. To have to many filaments are destroyed in order to make one as possible dense and even pile from protruding fiber ends create.

First, there is a homogeneous thread system in which all Single filaments equally for the stability of the thread contribute. In contrast to air-textured PES yarns or Polarticles are used for false-wire textured PES yarns no additional thread system (soul thread) available ensures stability. Therefore, any destruction of one Filaments cause a loss of strength. Also point out commercially available false wire textured yarns as a rule no rotation or only a minimal rotation (between 0- 20 T / m) so that the destroyed filaments fray and can leave the carrier as loose fibers.

According to the roughening process can be carried out in different ways Stages of the procedure are carried out. Does the find Roughening (emery) cut after coating with the Adhesive instead, so some coating material penetrates into the Threads of the insert and provides an additional Stabilization. Surprisingly, this is also the case if the sanded side of the coated side opposite. The tendency to fray is low because the coating compound, even if it is on the opposite side, for additional stability provides. The individual fibers are through the remnants of the Coating compound partially glued together. moreover not all filaments are completely roughened severed so that sufficient residual strength is available. The inserts produced in this way have a excellent volume and are according to the invention particularly preferred.

Would you like to further improve the tensile strength of the threads and reduce the tendency to fray again False wire textured yarns are used in addition have a rotation. The rotation can be 20 T / m - 1000 T / m amount, but is preferably 100 T / m - 400 T / m. After the emery process, fibers are again formed here, where one end is fixed in the yarn by twisting is. The volume of the items is the same Article construction less, the higher the yarn twist.

The roughening or emery step can also be done before Coating with adhesive or during pretreatment be performed. In this case, care should be taken that there are no thread pullers or thread shifts occur.

In the insert according to the invention, a thermoplastic hot melt adhesive is preferably used and applied in a raster form. A hot melt adhesive based on (CO) polyamide, (CO) polyester or polyethylene or a mixture of the materials mentioned is particularly preferred. The application weight is generally 4 to 30 g / m ² , preferably 6 to 25 g / m ² .

Below are some to explain this invention particularly preferred embodiments of the invention sanded insert specified.

The one given in the examples below The emery machine is a full roll emery machine. In addition to full-roll emery machines, slatted-roller emery machines are also known in practice. These slatted rollers wear individual, attached parallel to each other Emery strips and are particularly suitable for dense, voluminous fabrics with natural fibers. Another variant is the scraper roughing machine, in which the rollers with a Scratching tape are wrapped and a much denser Can produce fiber pile.

Example 1 : Tissue

Chain PES text. HE intermingled dtex 100f36 / 1 Shot PES text. HE dtex 100f32 / 2 weft density approx. 140 Fd / 10 cm

Binding: Cross twill 1/3, this unequal binding creates weft floats, the goods are sanded on the weft side
Total weight: approx. 60 g / m ²
Coating: 11 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Finishing operations :

• Shrink
• Equip
• coating
• sand

Schmirgelpassagen:

1st roller 320 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run 2.-4th roller 400 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run Web speed: 10 m / min Number of passages: 1 Machine type: Sperotto Rimar SM4

Example 2: Fabric for reinforcing collars and cuffs

Chain PES text. HE intermingled dtex 100f36 / 1 Shot PES text. HE dtex 167f32 / 2 weft density approx. 115 fd / 10 cm

Binding : Cross twill 1/3, this unequal binding creates weft floats, the goods are sanded on the weft side. total weight approx. 95 g / m ² coating 25 / m ² polyethylene hot melt adhesive

Finishing operations :

• Shrink
• Equip
• coating
• sand

Schmirgelpassagen:

1st roller 320 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run 2nd to 4th roller 400 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run Web speed: 10 m / min Number of passages: 3 Machine type: Sperotto Rimar SM4

Example 3: Raschel

Chain PES smooth dtex 33f15 / 1 Shot PES text. HE dtex 100f72 / 2, protection rotation T / m = 200 weft density approx. 120 Fd / 10 cm binding closed fringe total weight approx. 30 g / m ² coating 6 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Finishing operations :

• Shrink
• Equip
• sand
• coating

Schmirgelpassagen:

1st and 3rd roller 400 grit Direction of rotation: with were running 2.Walze 400 grit Direction of rotation: against were running Web speed: 12 m / min Number of passages: 1 Machine type: Sperotto Rimar SM4

Example 4: Raschel

Chain PES textures HE dtex 33f15 / 1 Shot PES text. HE dtex 167f100 / 2 weft density approx. 100 Fd / 10 cm binding staggered fringe total weight approx. 45 g / m ² coating 9 g / m ² polyester hot melt adhesive

Finishing operations :

• Shrink
• Equip
• coating
• sand

Schmirgelpassagen:

1st and 2nd roller 400 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run 3rd roller 500 grit Direction of rotation: against the flow of goods Web speed: 14 m / min Number of passages: 1 Machine type: Sperotto Rimar SM4

Example 5: Tissue

Chain PES textures HE intermingled dtex 100f36 / 1 Shot PES text. HE dtex 167f32 / 2 weft density approx. 115 fd / 10 cm binding Cross twill 2/2 total weight approx. 80 g / m ² coating 10 g / m ² polyamide hot melt adhesive

Finishing operations :

• Shrink
• Equip
• sand
• coating

Schmirgelpassagen:

1st and 2nd roller 320 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run 3rd roller 400 grit Direction of rotation: with goods run Web speed: 12 m / min Number of passages: 1 Machine type: Sperotto Rimar SM4

As can be seen from the application examples, this can Emery process at various points in the Manufacturing chain to be carried out. It is the first time possible with conventional false wire textured yarns Look and grip of a classic roughened insert generate and share these properties with the benefits of to connect elastic inserts.

Claims (18)

1. Elastic insert composed of a support based on a woven fabric, knitted fabric or woven fabric with weft insertion, wherein the material of the warp and/or weft thread is a filament yarn, and having an adhesive layer applied on one side of this support, characterised in that the insert is roughened on the side not provided with the adhesive.
2. Insert according to claim 1, characterised in that the filament yarn is manufactured from polyester and/or polyamide and/or polyacrylic.
3. Insert according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that the filament yarn has a yarn count in the range of 15 dtex to 440 dtex.
4. Insert according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the filament yarn has a yarn count in the range of 30 dtex to 180 dtex.
5. Insert according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterised in that the warp and/or weft consist of false-twist textured polyester, polyamide or polyacrylic filament yarn.
6. Insert according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterised in that the filament yarns additionally have a twist.
7. Insert according to claim 6, characterised in that the twist is in the range of 20 to 1,000 T/m.
8. Insert according to claim 6 or 7, characterised in that the twist is in the range of 100 to 400 T/m.
9. Method for manufacturing an elastic insert composed of a support based on a woven fabric, knitted fabric or knitted fabric with weft insertion, wherein the material of the warp and/or weft thread is a filament yarn, and having an adhesive layer applied on one side of this support by:

   (a) producing a raw woven fabric or raw knitted fabric, if need be with weft insertion, from filament yarn,

   (b) carrying out a washing and/or shrinking operation,

   (c) if need be carrying out a colouring operation,

   (d) heat-stabilising the raw woven fabric or knitted fabric and

   (e) coating one side of the raw woven fabric or knitted fabric obtained with an adhesive,

   characterised in that
   roughening of the surface not provided with adhesive is carried out.
10. Method according to claim 9, characterised in that roughening ensues by rubbing with emery.
11. Method according to claim 10, characterised in that for rubbing with emery an emery paper is used which is wound in the shape of a spiral onto at least one emery grinding roller, wherein the surface of the insert is roughened by rubbing against this at least single emery grinding roller.
12. Method according to claim 11, characterised in that the emery paper has a granularity in the range of 40 to 1,000, preferably 100 to 500.
13. Method according to one of claims 9 to 12, characterised in that rubbing with emery is carried out prior to coating of the support with the adhesive.
14. Method according to one of claims 9 to 13, characterised in that rubbing with emery is carried out during a finishing process prior to coating.
15. Method according to one of claims 9 to 12, characterised in that rubbing with emery is carried out after coating the support with the adhesive.
16. Method according to one of claims 11 to 15, characterised in that the plurality of emery grinding rollers are driven independently of one another and turn independently of one another in the same direction as or counter to the movement of the elastic insert.
17. Use of an elastic insert according to one of claims 1 to 8, for reinforcing articles of clothing, in particular the front parts of articles of clothing.
18. Use of an elastic insert according to one of claims 1 to 8 for reinforcing collars and/or cuffs.