EP0937801A1 - Reinforcing textile for stiffening fabrics, manufacturing process and applications - Google Patents
Reinforcing textile for stiffening fabrics, manufacturing process and applications Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0937801A1 EP0937801A1 EP99400381A EP99400381A EP0937801A1 EP 0937801 A1 EP0937801 A1 EP 0937801A1 EP 99400381 A EP99400381 A EP 99400381A EP 99400381 A EP99400381 A EP 99400381A EP 0937801 A1 EP0937801 A1 EP 0937801A1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- textile support
- support according
- layer
- textile
- stitches
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
- D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
- D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
- D04H1/52—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by applying or inserting filamentary binding elements
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
- A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
- D04B21/165—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads with yarns stitched through one or more layers or tows, e.g. stitch-bonded fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
- D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
- D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
- D04H1/45—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by forming intermeshing loops or stitches from some of the fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H13/00—Other non-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/45—Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/45—Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
- Y10T442/456—Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/45—Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
- Y10T442/456—Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
- Y10T442/463—Warp knit insert strand
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/494—Including a nonwoven fabric layer other than paper
Definitions
- the invention relates to a textile support for reinforcing clothing or pieces of clothing.
- the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a support. textile, as well as its applications.
- Textile reinforcement supports are intended to give clothing on which they are fixed, the touch, the flexibility, and the nervousness sought.
- US-A-5,065,599 describes a textile support of the knitted or knitted mesh type raster comprising sections of embossed wire and having the function of facilitating hanging an icing wire.
- This document does not relate to a fabric covering comprising a layer of non woven in order to meet the requirements in terms of weight and volume.
- US-A-3,992,904 describes a non-woven fabric obtained by sewing-knitting comprising a layer of fibers and a knitted fabric.
- the textile described in this document is a ready-made fabric, so it is not suitable for strengthening clothing.
- patent FR-A-2,645,180 describes a product comprising a layer of non-woven textile, a weft, a knitted thread ensuring the connection of the weft with the layer of non-woven fabric and a layer of iron-on adhesive.
- the invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks.
- a textile support for strengthening a garment or pieces of clothing in the form of a textile layer nonwoven reinforced with one or more knitted fabrics, the stitches of the or knitwear with yarn over on at least two columns of stitches.
- the throws are made on each row of meshes.
- they are produced on a row of meshes out of two, or still on a row of stitches on three or four, or even more.
- the textile support of the invention further comprises, short weft threads, unwinding in the direction of throws.
- the short weft threads do not participate in the formation of the mesh and have for function, in particular, to increase the stability of the support.
- the textile support of the invention further includes a second knitted fabric, the stitches of the second fabric also showing yarn over at least two columns of mesh.
- This second knit is preferably superimposed on the first knit and has for function including increasing the volume of the textile support.
- This second knitting is made from yarns of compositions and / or titrations identical or different from those used for the first knitting.
- the second knit has the same or different yarns than the first knitting.
- the first knitted yarn knitted fabric has throws in two mesh columns while the second knitted yarn knit has thrown on three columns of mesh.
- the knitting is made from synthetic or artificial textured yarns.
- Textured synthetic yarns include, for example, multifilament yarns.
- the number and the single strand titration of the filaments are generally chosen. depending on resilience or elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.
- unit strand titration of filaments can be between 1 decitex and 35 decitex.
- the multifilament yarns can comprise from 6 to 150 filaments.
- Textured yarns include, for example, polyamide yarns, in particular of polyamide 6 or 6.6, polyester, viscose, as well as the derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.
- Texturing is obtained using, for example, a classical technique of texturing by false twist or an air texturing technique.
- the density of the knit is generally chosen according to the flexibility that we want to give the textile support and the titration of the threads used.
- the density of meshes is thus between 2 meshes per cm and 20 meshes per cm.
- the invention also relates to the applications of the textile support of the invention, in particular for the interlining of garments or pieces of clothing, such as jackets, breastplates, pants, ties, shirts or the like, as well as clothes or pieces of clothing comprising at least one textile support according to the invention.
- FIGS. 1 to 5 represent views schematic in elevation and flat of different embodiments of the textile support of the invention.
- the textile support 1 intended for the reinforcement of garments or pieces of clothing has a layer of non-woven fabric 2.
- This layer 2 mainly has the role of giving the textile support 1 a large volume in relation to its weight.
- the binding may consist, for example, of a thermal binding, in particular a binding or hot pre-binding.
- the binding may also consist of a needling or pre-needling.
- the binding can be carried out by water jets or by an agent chemical.
- Tying and pre-tying techniques are generally chosen according to the nature of the fibers or filaments used for the non-woven textile layer.
- the nonwoven fabric layer 2 is made from fibers or filaments natural continuous, such as cellulose or wool, from fibers or filaments synthetic continuous materials such as polyamide or polyester, or from fibers or continuous artificial filaments, such as viscose, as well as derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.
- the fibers or filaments used for the production of the non-woven textile layer 2 for example, have a titration greater than 1 decitex.
- the non-woven textile layer 2 is produced at from microfibers or microfilaments with a titer of less than 1 decitex.
- the nonwoven fabric layer 2 generally has a grammage varying from 15 to 100 g / m 2 .
- This layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is reinforced by a knitted fabric 3 having for the function, in particular, of strengthening the cohesion of the web of the nonwoven fabric, and provide elasticity both in the weft direction and in the direction chain.
- Knitted fabric 3 is a knitted fabric, having yarns 4 on at least two 5 mesh columns.
- Throws are obtained by passing the knitting threads over needles different from the trade, to each row of meshes (or to a determined number of rows of stitches).
- the throws 4 are made on two 5 mesh columns. It is also possible to make the throws on three, four or more columns of stitches, such as shown in figure 3.
- the throws 4 are produced on each row 6 of stitches ( Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5).
- the throws 4 are produced on a row 6 of out of two stitches ( Figure 1).
- the textile support 1 of the invention further comprises short weft son 7, unwinding in the sense of throws.
- the short weft 7 is made from mono- or multifilament, flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial, such as those described previously.
- the textile support 1 of the invention comprises two knitted yarn knits, each having throws on at least two columns of mesh.
- a first knitted 8 with knitted stitches is produced, presenting throws 9 out of three 5 columns of stitches, each row 6 of stitches.
- first knit 8 is superimposed a second knit 10 with knitted stitches, with throws 11 on two columns 5 of mesh, each row 6 of meshes.
- the textile support of the invention comprises a iron-on adhesive material.
- the fusible material constitutes a adhesive layer and is selected from any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics to textiles before receiving them.
- These subtances can be in the form of powder or paste.
- the methods coating techniques can be used, for example coating methods by screen printing type.
- the adhesive layer can be deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile, as dots, double dots, or lines.
- a textile layer is firstly constituted nonwoven 2.
- nonwoven fabrics are themselves known. Any one of them can be used for make the nonwoven textile layer 2 of the textile support of the invention.
- Layer 2 can have a binding or pre-binding, as has been described previously. This binding or pre-binding can be carried out by the methods described above, for example by making a non-woven textile layer weakly needled or pre-needled.
- This type of nonwoven fabric 2 is fed with a type of loom "RACHEL” or "MALI” type.
- the layer is deposited between the needle bed and the felling plate nonwoven 2.
- a needle cooperates in known manner with bars passettes for knitting.
- the layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is pierced by the needles of the trade and is therefore maintained by knitting.
- the sons of knitting undergo a retraction which causes a reduction in the dimensions of the textile support produced.
- This shrinkage treatment is to impart crimp and volume, as well as an elastic capacity, with textile support.
- the shrinkage decreases the dimensions of the layer of nonwoven fabric, in it giving a volume greater than that which it had initially.
- This mode combination of a non-woven tablecloth and a retractable knitted yarn allows to obtain a textile support having good nervousness both in the warp and weft direction, while retaining extensibility determined by the conditions of the withdrawal treatment.
- the rate of elongation of the knitted yarns, after treatment of retraction varies from 4 to 20%.
- the retraction of the knitting yarns decreases the width and the length of the layer of nonwoven fabric 2, it therefore increases its average thickness compressed during knitting and thereby its volume, forcing the fibers to a crimping effect under the action of retraction.
- the knitting fibers are shrunk, for example with a process classic shrinking by hot water, steam or hot air.
- the textile support is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, the shrinkage that may occur during these finishing operations.
- thermoadhesive on the textile support is then optionally deposited thermoadhesive on the textile support.
- This coating is preferably a coating by points, carried out for example with an engraving cylinder of the type screen printing.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Laminated Bodies (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Manufacturing Of Tubular Articles Or Embedded Moulded Articles (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
L'invention se rapporte à un support textile pour le renforcement de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement.The invention relates to a textile support for reinforcing clothing or pieces of clothing.
L'invention se rapporte également à un procédé de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ainsi qu'à ses applications.The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a support. textile, as well as its applications.
Les supports textiles de renforcement sont destinés à donner aux vêtements sur lesquels ils sont fixés, le toucher, la souplesse, et la nervosité recherchés.Textile reinforcement supports are intended to give clothing on which they are fixed, the touch, the flexibility, and the nervousness sought.
US-A-5 065 599 décrit un support textile de type tricot maille ou tricot maille tramée comportant des tronçons de fil en relief et ayant pour fonction de faciliter l'accrochage d'un fil de glaçage.US-A-5,065,599 describes a textile support of the knitted or knitted mesh type raster comprising sections of embossed wire and having the function of facilitating hanging an icing wire.
Ce document ne concerne pas un textile d'entoilage comportant une couche de non tissé dans le but de répondre aux exigences en terme de poids et de volume.This document does not relate to a fabric covering comprising a layer of non woven in order to meet the requirements in terms of weight and volume.
US-A-3 992 904 décrit un textile non tissé obtenu par couture-tricotage comprenant une couche de fibres et un tricot.US-A-3,992,904 describes a non-woven fabric obtained by sewing-knitting comprising a layer of fibers and a knitted fabric.
Le textile décrit dans ce document est un tissu de confection, il n'est donc pas adapté pour le renforcement de vêtements.The textile described in this document is a ready-made fabric, so it is not suitable for strengthening clothing.
Différentes propositions ont déjà été faites pour réaliser des supports textiles thermocollants destinés à l'entoilage et incorporant une couche de textile non-tissé.Different proposals have already been made to make textile supports fusible sheets intended for interlining and incorporating a layer of nonwoven fabric.
Par exemple, le brevet FR-A-2 645 180 décrit un produit comportant une couche de textile non-tissé, une trame, un fil tricoté assurant la liaison de la trame avec la couche de textile non-tissé et une couche d'adhésif thermocollant.For example, patent FR-A-2,645,180 describes a product comprising a layer of non-woven textile, a weft, a knitted thread ensuring the connection of the weft with the layer of non-woven fabric and a layer of iron-on adhesive.
Les produits proposés jusqu'à ce jour ne permettent cependant pas dans tous les cas, de répondre aux exigences en termes de poids qui doit être faible, de volume qui, au contraire, doit être important, de nervosité, d'élasticité et de stabilité dimensionnelle. The products offered to date do not however allow in all the cases, to meet the requirements in terms of weight which must be low, of volume which, on the contrary, must be significant, of nervousness, elasticity and dimensional stability.
L'invention vise donc à remédier à ces inconvénients.The invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks.
A cet effet, elle propose un support textile pour le renforcement d'un vêtement ou de pièces de vêtement, se présentant sous la forme d'une couche de textile non-tissé renforcé par un ou plusieurs tricots à mailles jetées, les mailles du ou des tricots présentant des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.To this end, it offers a textile support for strengthening a garment or pieces of clothing, in the form of a textile layer nonwoven reinforced with one or more knitted fabrics, the stitches of the or knitwear with yarn over on at least two columns of stitches.
Selon d'autres caractéristiques, les jetés sont réalisés sur chaque rangée de mailles. En variante, ils sont réalisés sur une rangée de mailles sur deux, ou encore sur une rangée de mailles sur trois ou quatre, voire plus.According to other characteristics, the throws are made on each row of meshes. As a variant, they are produced on a row of meshes out of two, or still on a row of stitches on three or four, or even more.
Selon une forme d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend, de plus, des fils de trame courte, se dévidant dans le sens des jetés.According to one embodiment, the textile support of the invention further comprises, short weft threads, unwinding in the direction of throws.
Les fils de trame courte ne participent pas à la formation de la maille et ont pour fonction, notamment, d'augmenter la stabilité du support.The short weft threads do not participate in the formation of the mesh and have for function, in particular, to increase the stability of the support.
Selon encore une autre forme d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend de plus un second tricot à mailles jetées, les mailles du second tricot présentant également des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.According to yet another embodiment, the textile support of the invention further includes a second knitted fabric, the stitches of the second fabric also showing yarn over at least two columns of mesh.
Ce second tricot est, de préférence, superposé au premier tricot et a pour fonction notamment d'augmenter le volume du support textile.This second knit is preferably superimposed on the first knit and has for function including increasing the volume of the textile support.
Ce second tricot est réalisé à partir de fils de compositions et/ou de titrages identiques ou différents de ceux utilisés pour le premier tricot.This second knitting is made from yarns of compositions and / or titrations identical or different from those used for the first knitting.
Le second tricot présente des jetés identiques ou différents de ceux du premier tricot.The second knit has the same or different yarns than the first knitting.
Par exemple, le premier tricot à mailles jetées présente des jetés sur deux colonnes de mailles tandis que le second tricot à mailles jetées présente des jetés sur trois colonnes de mailles.For example, the first knitted yarn knitted fabric has throws in two mesh columns while the second knitted yarn knit has thrown on three columns of mesh.
Le tricot est réalisé à partir de fils synthétiques ou artificiels texturés.The knitting is made from synthetic or artificial textured yarns.
Les fils synthétiques texturés comprennent par exemple les fils multifilaments. Textured synthetic yarns include, for example, multifilament yarns.
Le nombre et le titrage au brin unitaire des filaments sont généralement choisis en fonction de la résilience ou de l'élasticité, du volume et de la souplesse souhaités pour le support textile. Par exemple, le titrage au brin unitaire des filaments peut être compris entre 1 décitex et 35 décitex.The number and the single strand titration of the filaments are generally chosen. depending on resilience or elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support. For example, unit strand titration of filaments can be between 1 decitex and 35 decitex.
Les fils multifilaments peuvent comprendre de 6 à 150 filaments.The multifilament yarns can comprise from 6 to 150 filaments.
Les fils texturés comprennent par exemple les fils de polyamide, notamment de
polyamide 6 ou 6.6, de polyester, de viscose, ainsi que les dérivés et/ou
mélanges de ces produits.Textured yarns include, for example, polyamide yarns, in particular of
La texturation est obtenue en utilisant, par exemple, une technique classique de texturation par fausse torsion ou une technique de texturation par air.Texturing is obtained using, for example, a classical technique of texturing by false twist or an air texturing technique.
La densité du tricot est généralement choisie en fonction de la souplesse que l'on souhaite conférer au support textile et du titrage des fils utilisés. La densité de mailles est ainsi comprise entre 2 mailles par cm et 20 mailles par cm.The density of the knit is generally chosen according to the flexibility that we want to give the textile support and the titration of the threads used. The density of meshes is thus between 2 meshes per cm and 20 meshes per cm.
L'invention vise également un procédé de fabrication d'un support textile destiné au renforcement de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement du type dans lequel:
- on constitue une nappe de textile non-tissé,
- on renforce sur un métier de type "chaíne" la cohésion de la nappe de textile non-tissé avec au moins un tricot à mailles jetées, les mailles du tricot présentant des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles,
- on procède au finissage du support textile ainsi obtenu, au cours duquel le tricot maille subit une rétraction,
- éventuellement, on réalise le dépôt d'une couche de matière thermoadhésive sur au moins l'une des faces du support textile.
- a nonwoven fabric is formed,
- the cohesion of the nonwoven fabric ply is reinforced on a “chain” type loom with at least one knitted fabric, the knitted stitches having yarn over at least two columns of stitches,
- the textile support thus obtained is finished, during which the knitted fabric undergoes a retraction,
- optionally, a layer of thermoadhesive material is deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile support.
L'invention vise également les applications du support textile de l'invention, notamment pour l'entoilage de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement, tels que vestes, plastrons, pantalons, cravates, chemises ou analogue, ainsi que les vêtements ou pièces de vêtement comportant au moins un support textile selon l'invention.The invention also relates to the applications of the textile support of the invention, in particular for the interlining of garments or pieces of clothing, such as jackets, breastplates, pants, ties, shirts or the like, as well as clothes or pieces of clothing comprising at least one textile support according to the invention.
L'invention sera bien comprise dans la description qui suit, faite en référence aux figures annexées dans lesquelles les figures 1 à 5 représentent des vues schématiques en élévation et à plat de différents modes de réalisation du support textile de l'invention.The invention will be clearly understood in the description which follows, given with reference to the appended figures in which FIGS. 1 to 5 represent views schematic in elevation and flat of different embodiments of the textile support of the invention.
En se référant maintenant aux figures, le support textile 1 destiné au
renforcement de vêtements ou pièces de vêtement comporte une couche de
textile non-tissé 2.Referring now to the figures, the
Cette couche 2 a principalement pour rôle de donner au support textile 1 un
volume important par rapport à son poids.This
Elle est réalisée à partir d'une nappe peu compactée de fibres ou de filaments continus et subit éventuellement un liage minimum pour donner une cohésion aux fibres.It is made from a sheet of little compacted fibers or filaments continuous and possibly undergoes minimum binding to give cohesion with fibers.
Le liage peut consister par exemple en un liage thermique, notamment un liage ou pré-liage à chaud. Le liage peut également consister en un aiguilletage ou pré-aiguilletage.The binding may consist, for example, of a thermal binding, in particular a binding or hot pre-binding. The binding may also consist of a needling or pre-needling.
Alternativement, le liage peut être réalisé par jets d'eau ou par un agent chimique.Alternatively, the binding can be carried out by water jets or by an agent chemical.
Les techniques de liage et de pré-liage sont en général choisies en fonction de la nature des fibres ou filaments utilisés pour la couche de textile non-tissé.Tying and pre-tying techniques are generally chosen according to the nature of the fibers or filaments used for the non-woven textile layer.
La couche de textile non-tissé 2 est réalisée à partir de fibres ou filaments
continus naturels, tels que cellulose ou laine, à partir de fibres ou filaments
continus synthétiques tels que polyamide ou polyester, ou à partir de fibres ou
filaments continus artificiels, tels que viscose, ainsi que les dérivés et/ou
mélanges de ces produits.The
Les fibres ou filaments utilisés pour la réalisation de la couche de textile non-tissé
2 possèdent par exemple un titrage supérieur à 1 décitex.The fibers or filaments used for the production of the
Selon un autre mode d'exécution, la couche de textile non-tissé 2 est réalisée à
partir de microfibres ou de microfilaments d'un titrage inférieur à 1 décitex.According to another embodiment, the
La couche de textile non-tissé 2 possède généralement un grammage variant
de 15 à 100 g/m2. The
Cette couche de textile non-tissé 2 est renforcée par un tricot maille 3 ayant
pour fonction, notamment, de renforcer la cohésion de la nappe du textile non-tissé,
et de procurer une élasticité à la fois dans le sens trame et dans le sens
chaíne.This layer of
Le tricot 3 est un tricot à mailles jetées, présentant des jetés 4 sur au moins
deux colonnes 5 de mailles.Knitted
Les jetés sont obtenus par le passage des fils de tricotage sur des aiguilles différentes du métier, à chaque rangée de mailles (ou à un nombre déterminé de rangées de mailles).Throws are obtained by passing the knitting threads over needles different from the trade, to each row of meshes (or to a determined number of rows of stitches).
Sur les modes d'exécution représentés sur les figures 1, 2 et 4, les jetés 4 sont
réalisés sur deux colonnes 5 de mailles. Il est également envisageable de
réaliser les jetés sur trois, quatre ou plus colonnes de mailles, tel que
représenté sur la figure 3.On the embodiments represented in FIGS. 1, 2 and 4, the
Selon un mode d'exécution de l'invention, les jetés 4 sont réalisés sur chaque
rangée 6 de mailles (figures 2, 3, 4 et 5).According to one embodiment of the invention, the
Selon un autre mode d'exécution, les jetés 4 sont réalisés sur une rangée 6 de
mailles sur deux (figure 1).According to another embodiment, the
Il est également envisageable de réaliser un tricot présentant des jetés sur une
rangée 6 de mailles sur trois ou quatre, voire plus.It is also possible to make a knitted fabric with yarn over on a
Sur le mode d'exécution représenté sur la figure 4, le support textile 1 de
l'invention comprend de plus des fils de trame courte 7, se dévidant dans le
sens des jetés.In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the
Sur la figure 4, les fils de trame courte 7 se dévident sur deux colonnes 5 de
mailles.In FIG. 4, the
Il est également envisageable de disposer des fils de trame courte se dévidant sur trois, quatre ou plus colonnes de mailles. It is also possible to have short weft yarns unwinding on three, four or more columns of mesh.
La trame courte 7 est réalisée à partir de fils mono- ou multifilaments, plats ou
texturés, naturels, synthétiques ou artificiels, tels que ceux décrits
précédemment.The
Sur le mode d'exécution représenté sur la figure 5, le support textile 1 de
l'invention comprend deux tricots à mailles jetées, chacun présentant des jetés
sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.In the embodiment shown in FIG. 5, the
Un premier tricot 8 à mailles jetées est réalisé, présentant des jetés 9 sur trois
colonnes 5 de mailles, chaque rangée 6 de mailles.A first knitted 8 with knitted stitches is produced, presenting throws 9 out of three
5 columns of stitches, each
A ce premier tricot 8 est superposé un second tricot 10 à mailles jetées,
présentant des jetés 11 sur deux colonnes 5 de mailles, chaque rangée 6 de
mailles.On this
Selon un mode d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend une matière adhésive thermocollante. La matière thermocollante constitue une couche d'adhésif et est choisie parmi l'une quelconque de celles couramment utilisées pour assurer le contrecollage des tissus de renfort sur les textiles devant les recevoir.According to one embodiment, the textile support of the invention comprises a iron-on adhesive material. The fusible material constitutes a adhesive layer and is selected from any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics to textiles before receiving them.
Elle est par exemple à base de polymères vinyliques, de polyoléfine, de polyamide, de polyéthylène haute et basse densité, de copolyester, de copolyamide, etc.It is for example based on vinyl polymers, polyolefin, polyamide, high and low density polyethylene, copolyester, copolyamide, etc.
Ces subtances peuvent être sous forme de poudre ou de pâte. Les méthodes habituelles d'enduction sont utilisables, par exemple les méthodes d'enduction par impression de type sérigraphie.These subtances can be in the form of powder or paste. The methods coating techniques can be used, for example coating methods by screen printing type.
La couche adhésive peut être déposée sur l'une au moins des faces du textile, sous forme de points, de doubles points ou de lignes.The adhesive layer can be deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile, as dots, double dots, or lines.
Selon le procédé de l'invention, on constitue tout d'abord une couche de textile
non-tissé 2.According to the process of the invention, a textile layer is firstly constituted
De nombreuses méthodes de fabrication de nappes textiles non-tissées sont en
elles-mêmes connues. L'une quelconque d'entre elles peut être utilisée pour
réaliser la couche de textile non-tissé 2 du support textile de l'invention. Many methods of making nonwoven fabrics are
themselves known. Any one of them can be used for
make the
La couche 2 peut présenter un liage ou pré-liage, ainsi qu'il a été décrit
précédemment. Ce liage ou pré-liage peut être réalisé par les méthodes
décrites plus haut, par exemple en réalisant une couche textile non-tissée
faiblement aiguilletée ou pré-aiguilletée.
On alimente avec cette couche de textile non-tissé 2 un métier de type
"RACHEL" ou de type "MALI".This type of
Le fonctionnement de ces types de métier est connu en lui-même.
Généralement, on dépose entre la fonture et la plaque d'abattage la couche
non-tissée 2. Une aiguille coopère de manière connue avec des barres à
passettes pour réaliser le tricot.The operation of these types of profession is known in itself.
Generally, the layer is deposited between the needle bed and the felling
Ainsi, la couche de textile non-tissé 2 est transpercée par les aiguilles du métier
et se trouve donc maintenue par le tricot.Thus, the layer of
Postérieurement à cette association et selon une variante d'exécution, les fils du tricot subissent une rétraction qui entraíne une diminution des dimensions du support textile réalisé.After this association and according to an alternative embodiment, the sons of knitting undergo a retraction which causes a reduction in the dimensions of the textile support produced.
Ce traitement de rétraction a pour but de conférer une frisure et un volume, ainsi qu'une capacité élastique, au support textile.The purpose of this shrinkage treatment is to impart crimp and volume, as well as an elastic capacity, with textile support.
La rétraction diminue les dimensions de la couche de textile non-tissé, en lui donnant un volume supérieur à celui qu'elle avait initialement. Ce mode d'association d'une nappe non-tissée et d'un fil tricoté rétractable permet d'obtenir un support textile possédant une bonne nervosité à la fois dans le sens chaíne et dans le sens trame, tout en conservant une extensibilité déterminée par les conditions du traitement de rétraction.The shrinkage decreases the dimensions of the layer of nonwoven fabric, in it giving a volume greater than that which it had initially. This mode combination of a non-woven tablecloth and a retractable knitted yarn allows to obtain a textile support having good nervousness both in the warp and weft direction, while retaining extensibility determined by the conditions of the withdrawal treatment.
De préférence, le taux d'allongement des fils du tricot, après traitement de rétraction, varie de 4 à 20 %.Preferably, the rate of elongation of the knitted yarns, after treatment of retraction, varies from 4 to 20%.
La rétraction des fils du tricot diminuant la largeur et la longueur de la couche de
textile non-tissé 2, elle augmente donc son épaisseur moyenne comprimée lors
du tricotage et par là son volume, en obligeant les fibres à un effet de frisure
sous l'action de la rétraction. The retraction of the knitting yarns decreases the width and the length of the layer of
La rétraction des fibres du tricot est produite, par exemple avec un procédé classique de rétraction par eau chaude, vapeur d'eau ou air chaud.The knitting fibers are shrunk, for example with a process classic shrinking by hot water, steam or hot air.
Toutefois, d'autres moyens peuvent être envisagés pour produire cette rétraction.However, other means can be envisaged to produce this retraction.
Le support textile est alors soumis aux opérations classiques de finissage, la rétraction pouvant se produire au cours de ces opérations de finissage.The textile support is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, the shrinkage that may occur during these finishing operations.
On réalise ensuite éventuellement le dépôt d'une couche d'enduction thermoadhésive sur le support textile. Cette enduction est de préférence une enduction par points, réalisée par exemple avec un cylindre de gravure du type sérigraphie.A coating layer is then optionally deposited thermoadhesive on the textile support. This coating is preferably a coating by points, carried out for example with an engraving cylinder of the type screen printing.
Claims (30)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9802080A FR2775300B1 (en) | 1998-02-20 | 1998-02-20 | TEXTILE SUPPORT FOR THE REINFORCEMENT OF A GARMENT OR PARTS OF GARMENT, METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SUCH A TEXTILE SUPPORT, ITS APPLICATIONS |
FR9802080 | 1998-02-20 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0937801A1 true EP0937801A1 (en) | 1999-08-25 |
EP0937801B1 EP0937801B1 (en) | 2003-12-17 |
Family
ID=9523193
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP99400381A Expired - Lifetime EP0937801B1 (en) | 1998-02-20 | 1999-02-17 | Manufacturing process of reinforcing textile for stiffening garment fabrics, reinforcing textile, and applications |
Country Status (15)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US6281150B1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP0937801B1 (en) |
KR (1) | KR20010041106A (en) |
CN (1) | CN1291244A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE256778T1 (en) |
AU (1) | AU2524999A (en) |
BR (1) | BR9907996A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2262270A1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE69913586T2 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2212482T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2775300B1 (en) |
PL (1) | PL189693B1 (en) |
TR (1) | TR200002401T2 (en) |
WO (1) | WO1999042645A1 (en) |
ZA (1) | ZA991317B (en) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1882764A1 (en) * | 2006-07-25 | 2008-01-30 | Carl Freudenberg KG | Textile fabric, method for its manufacture and use |
FR3057489A1 (en) * | 2016-10-19 | 2018-04-20 | Compagnie Chomarat | METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A TEXTILE REINFORCEMENT, AND ASSOCIATED REINFORCEMENT |
Families Citing this family (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2842077B1 (en) * | 2002-07-12 | 2004-09-24 | Proline Textile | REINFORCEMENT TEXTILE COMPRISING A WIRE ARRAY |
US6854296B1 (en) | 2004-01-23 | 2005-02-15 | Sara Lee Corporation | Bi-ply fabric construction and apparel formed therefrom |
US7013681B1 (en) * | 2004-11-19 | 2006-03-21 | Milliken & Company | Edgecomb resistant weft insertion warp knit fabric |
DE102005038098B4 (en) * | 2005-08-10 | 2010-01-28 | BLüCHER GMBH | Adsorption filter material with improved tear strength and / or tear propagation resistance |
US20070270071A1 (en) * | 2006-05-18 | 2007-11-22 | Greer J Travis | Nonwoven fabric towel |
US20120102657A1 (en) * | 2010-10-07 | 2012-05-03 | Martin Wildeman | Mattress construction including stitch-bonded flame barrier having stretch and recovery character |
US20220218119A1 (en) * | 2019-04-16 | 2022-07-14 | Tietex International, Ltd. | Mattress with flame barrier cap and related method |
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1998
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-
1999
- 1999-02-17 TR TR2000/02401T patent/TR200002401T2/en unknown
- 1999-02-17 KR KR1020007009147A patent/KR20010041106A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1999-02-17 AU AU25249/99A patent/AU2524999A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1999-02-17 PL PL99342540A patent/PL189693B1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1999-02-17 CN CN99803174A patent/CN1291244A/en active Pending
- 1999-02-17 AT AT99400381T patent/ATE256778T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1999-02-17 EP EP99400381A patent/EP0937801B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1999-02-17 US US09/251,477 patent/US6281150B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1999-02-17 BR BR9907996-8A patent/BR9907996A/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1999-02-17 WO PCT/FR1999/000355 patent/WO1999042645A1/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1999-02-17 DE DE69913586T patent/DE69913586T2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1999-02-17 ES ES99400381T patent/ES2212482T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1999-02-18 ZA ZA9901317A patent/ZA991317B/en unknown
- 1999-02-19 CA CA002262270A patent/CA2262270A1/en not_active Abandoned
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1882764A1 (en) * | 2006-07-25 | 2008-01-30 | Carl Freudenberg KG | Textile fabric, method for its manufacture and use |
US7759264B2 (en) | 2006-07-25 | 2010-07-20 | Carl Freudenberg Kg | Textile sheet, method for manufacturing same, and use |
FR3057489A1 (en) * | 2016-10-19 | 2018-04-20 | Compagnie Chomarat | METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A TEXTILE REINFORCEMENT, AND ASSOCIATED REINFORCEMENT |
WO2018073512A1 (en) * | 2016-10-19 | 2018-04-26 | Compagnie Chomarat | Method for manufacturing a textile reinforcement, and associated reinforcement |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE69913586D1 (en) | 2004-01-29 |
PL189693B1 (en) | 2005-09-30 |
ZA991317B (en) | 1999-08-19 |
KR20010041106A (en) | 2001-05-15 |
CA2262270A1 (en) | 1999-08-20 |
BR9907996A (en) | 2000-10-24 |
DE69913586T2 (en) | 2004-09-30 |
AU2524999A (en) | 1999-09-06 |
US6281150B1 (en) | 2001-08-28 |
ATE256778T1 (en) | 2004-01-15 |
WO1999042645A1 (en) | 1999-08-26 |
CN1291244A (en) | 2001-04-11 |
ES2212482T3 (en) | 2004-07-16 |
FR2775300B1 (en) | 2000-04-21 |
EP0937801B1 (en) | 2003-12-17 |
FR2775300A1 (en) | 1999-08-27 |
PL342540A1 (en) | 2001-06-18 |
TR200002401T2 (en) | 2001-01-22 |
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