EP0331780B1 - Shoe and method for making the same - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a shoe upper for shoes with cushion soles, consisting of a shaft (1) and, fastened to the shaft edges, an insole (2), as well as possibly a toe and/or heel reinforcement. To achieve improved strength of the glued connection of the cushion sole to the shoe upper, the shaft (1) has on its lower edge two flap-shaped projections (20, 21) and, in the region of the shaft toe, a lasting fold (9), there being provided in the insole (2) made of seamable flexible material two lateral cutouts (30, 31), the edges of which are stitched to those of the folded flap-shaped projections (20, 21). The front lasting fold (9) of the shaft (1) is wrapped around the toe region of the insole (2) and stuck to the latter. <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to an upper shoe for shoes with cushioned soles of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1.

In recent years, shoes with more or less soft, elastic cushion soles have found a steadily growing use in practice due to their special comfort. The cushion soles, which are usually made of PU alone or in combination with other materials, are not only elastically deformable within certain limits, but also have a cushioning effect that the wearer perceives as pleasant against shock loads. The deformability of such cushion soles, however, requires special flexible insoles with low elasticity. This requirement is met by e.g. B. Insoles made of textile materials met, which is sewn to the lower edge of the upper with a circumferential California seam. With this type of production, however, it is difficult to precisely define the toecaps that are important for the preparation and shape keeping of the shoes and durable to incorporate, because the upper is quilted and the insole is sewn in before it is opened. In addition, the chain seam is located exactly in the last edge, which makes it difficult to glue this upper shoe to the padded sole because the zones of the chain seam cannot be roughened properly. Roughening the adhesive surfaces is, however, particularly important for maintaining a high strength of the adhesive connection. Since the most intensive stresses occur when wearing the shoe, especially in the area of the chain seam, the soft-elastic outsole often detached from the upper shoe after longer periods of wear, particularly in the area of the highly stressed ball area, ie in the area of the toe joints. These detachment phenomena in California-style upper shoes occur particularly severely when using cushioned soles with soft, elastic surfaces.

Upper shoes made according to moccasin also meet the above-mentioned requirements for a flexible insole and, moreover, avoid the difficulties in gluing existing California-style upper shoes, since the undivided upper leather in the ball area is wrapped around the last of the last and consequently allows a perfect roughening on the underside. The incorporation of the toe caps, however, causes similar difficulties with this type of moccasin production as with the California type, since the processes involved are similar. In addition, the moccasin way of manufacturing restricts the freedom of shaft design very much, which is usually of decisive importance for the overall design of the respective shoe types.

Finally, upper shoes are also known, in which the lower shaft edges are wrapped around the last edge and the insole edges and are sticky with the latter. With this type of shoe, called "Ago shoes", the incorporation of the toecaps is no problem, since they can be glued to the inside of the upper in the tip area in the form of rags before the lasting process. However, this type of shoe requires a dimensionally stable insole, which is generally undesirable for shoes with cushioned soles or for soles with a built-in footbed, because due to their stiffness they do not withstand the high bending stresses and furthermore reduce the special cushioning and cushioning properties of the cushioned soles.

From DE-U-8 335 447 a work shoe with upper leather, lining, insole and foamed outsole is known, in which the upper leather and the lining with the insole are butt-stitched together in the rear and middle part of the shoe. In the front part of the shoe, the upper leather is wrapped around the insole and glued to it.

The object of the invention is to provide an upper shoe for shoes with cushioned soles, which has no design-related restrictions on the shoe design and which, with simplified production, enables increased strength of the adhesive connection of the outsole, particularly in the ball area. Furthermore, a simple and largely automated manufacturing process for such an upper shoe is to be demonstrated.

To solve this invention task, the upper shoe according to the invention is characterized by the features specified in claim 1.

In the upper shoe according to the invention, the insole is sewn with the lower edge of the upper around the heel to the front up to the calf area in the California style. The tab-like lugs on the upper are pulled inwards in the ball area and sewn to the edges of the two insole cutouts. The lasting fold at the tip of the shaft is also turned inwards and glued to the front end part of the insole.

In the upper shoe according to the invention, two tab-like approaches or widenings are cut onto the two side parts of the leather blank, which have an increasing width starting from the heel part and end shortly before the tip of the shaft over transverse edges again at the normal shaft edge. Around the shaft tip, a further flap is cut in the form of a lasting fold, onto which a front cap is laminated before the two side parts of the blank are sewn together, the outer edge of which ends at a predetermined distance from the outer edge of the shaft material. One half of a heel counter is attached to each of the two rear sections of the side parts of the blank, the rear and upper edge of each half of the heel cap ending just before the outer edges of the upper material, while the lower edges are flush with those of the upper material. The insole is made of a flexible and seamless material, e.g. B. from a semi-rigid plastic, her Outline in the heel area and in the toe area corresponds to the course of the last edge. Two side cutouts extend forward to beyond the bale section. Their shape corresponds to the respective shape and dimensions of the tab-like lugs cut onto the shaft. These cutouts end in front of the toe area of the insole or upper shoe on the normal last edge, so that the shape of the insole in this toe area again corresponds to the course of the last edge. In this tip area, a horseshoe-shaped reinforcement insert made of rigid, thin material can be glued to the underside of the insole, the outer edge of which corresponds to the contour of the insole.

To produce upper shoes for shoes with cushioned soles according to the method according to the invention, two lateral approaches or widenings are cut when the upper of the upper is cut out. The rear marginal edges of the two side parts of the upper of the upper, which later form the shoe side walls, are then sewn to one another, if appropriate after the gluing of two inserts which later form the heel reinforcement. The tip reinforcement is then laminated on in the tip area of the blank. The separately manufactured insole with the two side cutouts is then sewn to the lower edge of the upper by means of a chain seam (Californiaart), this seam from the front end or the inner insole cutout around the heel to the front end of the outer insole. Section runs. Thereupon the upper with the partially sewn insole mounted on a last and the lasting flap at the tip of the shaft, possibly together with the laminated front cap under the front end of the insole, possibly wrapped and glued with the horseshoe-shaped insole reinforcement previously attached to it. The rear edge zones of the lasting fold overlap the front end edges of the two approaches.

The upper shoe produced according to the invention has the advantage that in the side and front shoe area there are no lasting seams along the bending or last edges, so that these particularly highly stressed zones can be roughened properly before the soft-elastic cushioned soles are glued on or molded on. The adhesive connection between the upper shoe and the cushioned sole is particularly strong in the shoe areas that are particularly subject to bending when worn. The production of the upper shoe is no more complex than with conventional methods, since the chain seams can be made in one continuous sewing process.

Appropriate developments of the invention are specified in the subclaims.

Fig. 1

einen fertigen Oberschuh mit seinem Leisten in perspektivischer Darstellung;

Fig. 2

einen Schaftzuschnitt mit aufgeklebter Spitzeneinlage und aufgeklebter Fersenverstärkung in Draufsicht;

Fig. 3

eine Brandsohle mit aufgeklebter Spitzenverstärkung in Draufsicht;

Fig. 4

die gesondert hergestellte hufeisenförmige Spitzenverstärkung in Draufsicht;

Fig. 5, 6

den Schaft mit zusammengenähten Seitenteilen in perspektivischer Seitenansicht schräg von unten und in Draufsicht.

A preferred exemplary embodiment of an upper shoe according to the invention, including its various manufacturing processes, is described in detail below with reference to the drawing. Show it:

Fig. 1

a finished upper shoe with its last in perspective;

Fig. 2

a shaft cut with glued tip insert and glued heel reinforcement in plan view;

Fig. 3

an insole with glued toe reinforcement in top view;

Fig. 4

the separately manufactured horseshoe-shaped tip reinforcement in top view;

5, 6

the shaft with sewn side parts in perspective side view obliquely from below and in plan view.

The upper shoe shown in FIG. 1 contains a shaft 1 consisting of leather blanks and an insole 2 made of a semi-rigid material with low stretchability. As shown, the insole 2 is sewn to the lower edge of the shaft 1 by a chain seam 3, this chain seam 3 starting from point 4 below the floor surface, in the area of the heel in the edge line 5 of the last 6 and on the opposite side extends continuously under the bottom surface of the shoe to point 8 between the ball area and the toe. In the area of the toe, an elongated shaft strip in the form of a lasting fold 9 is wrapped around the front part of the insole and glued to it.

2 consists of a one-part or multi-part front part 10, which merges into two side parts 11, 12 later forming the side walls of the shoe. In the end area, a stiffer insert 13, 14 is glued to the inner surface of each side part, the outer edges 15 of which coincide with the edge of the associated side part 11 or 12, and the rear and inner edges 16, 17 of which are short of the corresponding rear and inner edges 18, 19 of the associated side part end, the folded edges 18 thus formed being sewn together. On the two long sides of the shaft blank, two outer tab-shaped projections 20, 21 are cut, the outer edge of which can be straight or curved. Immediately in front of these two side tabs 20, 21, another tab-shaped extension 22 is cut, which extends around the tip. A more rigid horseshoe-shaped insert 23 is fastened to the inner surface of this attachment 22, which is deformed in the course of shoe manufacture and forms a point reinforcement.

The shaft cut shown in FIG. 2 is brought into the shape according to FIG. 5, the rear edges 18 of the two side parts 11, 12 being sewn together. The width of these edges is chosen so that after sewing together the end edges 16 of the heel reinforcements 13, 14 are just covered and there is a continuous surface in the rear part of the heel, as shown in Fig. 4. The insert 23 which later forms the tip reinforcement also ends with it Front edge 24 shortly before the front edge 25 of the neck 22 cut to the front part 10 of the shaft (cf. FIGS. 2, 5).

1 and 5, the one tab-shaped extension 21 begins with a transverse edge 4 between the ball and toe areas and gradually goes behind the ball area into the conventional lower edge of the shaft, i.e. the ledge edge 5, above, with its outer edge having a curved arcuate course. The approach 20 has the same or similar shape and begins with a transverse edge 8 in front of the ball or joint area. The base points of the two transverse edges 4 and 8 also lie on the line of the conventional shaft cut, i.e. approximately in the area of the ledge edge 5. The distance between each transverse edge 4 or 8 and the adjacent edge of the tip extension 22 is chosen so that the edges of the approached extension 22 abut with the transverse edges 4, 8 of the respective extension 20, 21 at finished upper shoe meet, or that the transverse edges 4, 8 are covered by the marginal edges of the approached approach 22, as shown in Fig. 1.

The insole shown in plan view in FIG. 3 consists of a semi-rigid, relatively thin material of the same or decreasing wall thickness, which has a relatively low stretchability and sufficient strength with sufficient flexibility. In the rear part, the outer contour of this insole 2 corresponds to the conventional designs, ie its edge runs approximately in the edge line 5 of the last or the finished one Shoe. In the middle and front area, this insole 2 has two lateral cutouts 30, 31, the shape of which roughly corresponds to that of the two lugs 20, 21, so that the marginal edges of the lugs 20, 21 with those of the cutouts 30, 31 in the insole 2 can be brought to the plant. The cutouts 30, 31 begin in the middle part and extend over the entire toe joint area, their oblique front edges 34, 35 ending on the line of a conventional insole, ie in the last edge 5. A horseshoe-shaped reinforcement insert 36, which consists of a stiffer material and is shown in FIG. 4, is glued to the underside of the insole 2 in its tip region.

The upper shoe shown in the drawing is manufactured as follows:
The two inserts 13, 14 and the reinforcing insert 23 are glued onto a flat shaft blank of the shape shown in FIG. 2. The shaft is then brought into the shape shown in FIG. 5 and the edges 18 of the two side parts 11, 12 are sewn together. The insole 2 produced separately in the form shown in FIG. 3 with the toe reinforcement 36 is then sewn on using a California seam 3, this chain seam - as shown in FIG. 1 - up to the front transverse edges 4, 8 of the two lateral ones Approaches 20, 21 extends. By hitting of the two side lugs 20, 21 the chain seam runs in the - later - shoe bottom and does not follow the line of the later last edges 5. After placing the chain seam 3, the upper shoe blank is placed on a conventional suitable last 6, e.g. B. a so-called. Sliding strips, whereupon the approach 22 is turned over in the toe area and glued to the reinforcement insert 36 of the insole. This completes the upper shoe and is followed by further processing for the durable attachment of the prefabricated cushioned sole, which, however, can also be foamed or molded.

The invention is not limited to the embodiment shown and described in detail above. For example, the tip and / or heel reinforcement can be omitted for particularly soft shoes. In addition, the shape of the two tab-shaped projections 20, 21 on the shaft and that of the cutouts 30, 31 in the insole 2 can be changed with respect to the contour shown.

The upper shoe construction according to the invention can be regarded as a combination of three types, the California type being used in the middle and rear area, the moccasin type inside and outside in the area of the balls and the ago type in the toe area.

Claims (8)

1. A vamp for shoes having cushion soles and comprising an upper (1), an insole (2) secured to the edges of the upper (1) and possibly a tip and/or heel reinforcement (36; 13), a front tuck-in flap (9) of the upper (1) being engaged around the tip zone of the insole (2) and stuck thereto, the other insole edges being stitched to the upper (1),
   characterised in that
   the upper (1) has two tab-like projections (20, 21) on its bottom edge and a tuck-in insert (9) near the tip of the upper, and
   the insole (2) is made of a strong-stitch flexible material and is formed near the ball part of the foot with two lateral cutouts (30, 31) whose edges are stitched to the edges of the tucked-in projections (20, 21).
2. A vamp according to claim 1, characterised in that the projections (20, 21) extend, starting from the heel zone, by way of the waist and ball part and terminate in a front transverse edge adjacent the rear transverse edge of the flap (9; 22).
3. A vamp according to claim 1 or 2, characterised in that a horseshoe-shaped reinforcement (36) is secured in the tip zone of the insole (2).
4. A vamp according to any of claims 1 - 3, characterised in that a toe cap (23) is secured in the tip zone of the upper (1) and is stuck and tucked in together with the flap (9; 22) on the underside of the possibly reinforced insole tip.
5. A method of producing a vamp for shoes having cushion soles wherein the two side parts (11, 12) of the blank for the upper are stitched together, possibly together with a heel reinforcement (13, 14), by way of their rear edges (18), and
   the insole (2) is then stitched near the heel to the bottom edges of the upper (1) by means of a California type looped stitch,
   characterised in that
   tab-like projections (20, 21) are cut in the two upper side parts (11, 12) and before the vamp is engaged on the last are stitched to the edges of lateral insole cutouts (30, 31) so that on engagement on the last the projections (20, 21) turn over inwardly, whereafter after engagement on the last a projection (22) cut at the upper tip is stuck as tuck-in flap (9; 22) to the underside of the insole tip.
6. A method according to claim 5, characterised in that the insole (2) is stitched to the upper (1) as far as the stuck tucked-in tip zone by a continuous looped stitch (3) which extends around the heel part.
7. A method according to claim 6, characterised in that before the element (22) is stuck to the insole (2) at the upper tip a toe cap (23) is lined in.
8. A method according to any of claims 5 to 7, characterised in that sent cap inserts (13, 14) are stuck to the inside of the upper side members (11, 12) before the same are stitched together.

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