EP0153258B1 - Woven fabric imitating silk with polyester-threads - Google Patents
Woven fabric imitating silk with polyester-threads Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0153258B1 EP0153258B1 EP85420020A EP85420020A EP0153258B1 EP 0153258 B1 EP0153258 B1 EP 0153258B1 EP 85420020 A EP85420020 A EP 85420020A EP 85420020 A EP85420020 A EP 85420020A EP 0153258 B1 EP0153258 B1 EP 0153258B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- threads
- polyester
- fabric
- weft
- warp
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 title 1
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 13
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 5
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 238000005336 cracking Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 101100536354 Drosophila melanogaster tant gene Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 238000007664 blowing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001131 transforming effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005303 weighing Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/242—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads inorganic, e.g. basalt
- D03D15/267—Glass
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2503/00—Domestic or personal
Definitions
- the weaving is carried out in a conventional manner, the effects being obtained by the weft and the bottom being based on a satin weave of five.
- the warp density is 100 threads / centimeter.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Description
La présente invention concerne un nouveau type de tissu réalisé à partir de fils chimiques, et plus particulièrement à partir de fils synthétiques à base de polyester, ce tissu imitant ceux réalisés à ce jour, notamment pour l'ameublement, à partir de fils de soie.The present invention relates to a new type of fabric made from chemical threads, and more particularly from synthetic threads based on polyester, this fabric imitating those made to date, in particular for furniture, from silk threads .
Un tissu imitant la soie à base de fils synthétiques, y compris polyester est connu du document DE-B-1 224 213.A fabric imitating silk based on synthetic threads, including polyester, is known from document DE-B-1 224 213.
Depuis la naissance des fils chimiques, que ce soit des fils artificiels ou des fils synthétiques, l'un des principaux problèmes- qu'ont cherché à résoudre les techniciens était celui de leur donner des caractéristiques telles qu'une fois transformés en tissu ou tricot, l'article obtenu présente les caractéristiques (aspect, toucher...) similaires à celles des fibres naturelles (coton, laine, soie...). La solution la plus simple, utilisée depuis très longtemps, a consisté à transformer les filaments continus en fibres discontinues, soit par coupe ou craquage, puis à travailler les fibres ainsi obtenues d'une manière similaire aux fibres naturelles. Outre qu'une telle solution nécessite une opération coûteuse et délicate à réaliser, il faut convenir que les filés obtenus à partir de telles fibres ne présentent pas des caractéristiques comparables à celles obtenues à partir de laine ou de coton. Par suite, en général, la plupart des fibres chimiques sont encore de nos jours utilisées en mélange avec des fibres naturelles.Since the birth of chemical threads, whether artificial threads or synthetic threads, one of the main problems that technicians sought to solve was that of giving them characteristics such as when transformed into fabric or knitting , the article obtained has characteristics (appearance, feel ...) similar to those of natural fibers (cotton, wool, silk ...). The simplest solution, used for a very long time, consisted in transforming the continuous filaments into staple fibers, either by cutting or cracking, then in working the fibers thus obtained in a manner similar to natural fibers. In addition to the fact that such a solution requires an expensive and delicate operation to carry out, it must be agreed that the yarns obtained from such fibers do not have characteristics comparable to those obtained from wool or cotton. As a result, in general, most chemical fibers are still used today in a mixture with natural fibers.
D'autres techniques ont été envisagées plus récemment pour communiquer aux fils chimiques à base de filaments continus des caractéristiques similaires à celles des fibres naturelles en évitant de procéder à la découpe ou au craquage des filaments.Other techniques have been considered more recently to communicate to chemical yarns based on continuous filaments characteristics similar to those of natural fibers while avoiding cutting or cracking the filaments.
D'une manière générale, l'obtention de tels fils chimiques à filaments continus imitant les filés en fibres naturelles nécessite un traitement complémentaire effectué directement lors de l'opération de filage. Parmi les traitements développés à ce jour, on peut citer ceux qui consistent à faire passer les fils en sortie de filière sur une surface abrasive afin d'obtenir des brins cassés, à soumettre le filé à un traitement de fausse torsion dans des conditions particulières, à l'action d'une buse de soufflage...In general, obtaining such chemical yarns with continuous filaments imitating natural fiber yarns requires additional treatment carried out directly during the spinning operation. Among the treatments developed to date, there may be mentioned those which consist in passing the wires leaving the die over an abrasive surface in order to obtain broken strands, in subjecting the yarn to a treatment of false twist under particular conditions, to the action of a blowing nozzle ...
Parmi les fils synthétiques proposés à ce jour pour imiter ceux à base de fibres naturelles, on peut citer celui commercialisé par la société RHONE POULENC FIBRES qui a fait l'objet de nombreuses publications, notamment celles parues dans la revue « INDUSTRIE TEXTILE - N° 1113 Juillet-Août 1981 - page 608 ".Among the synthetic yarns proposed to date for imitating those based on natural fibers, one can cite that marketed by the company RHONE POULENC FIBERS which has been the subject of numerous publications, in particular those which appeared in the review "TEXTILE INDUSTRY - No. 1113 July-August 1981 - page 608 " .
Ce fil, désigné par l'expression « F.A.F. est. comme il ressort de ce document, un fil continu multifilaments à base de polyester et est proposé essentiellement pour être utilisé en tissage pour obtenir des articles présentant un toucher coton ou laine.This wire, designated by the expression "F.A.F. East. as is apparent from this document, a continuous multifilament yarn based on polyester and is proposed essentially for use in weaving to obtain articles having a cotton or wool feel.
Or on a trouvé, et c'est ce qui fait l'objet de la présente invention, qu'il était possible de réaliser à partir de tels fils, non seulement des articles à toucher coton ou laine mais également, et ce de manière tout à fait inattendue, des tissus qui imitent parfaitement ceux réalisés à ce jour à partir de la soie naturelle et qui sont utilisés notamment dans l'ameublement.Now we have found, and this is what is the subject of the present invention, that it was possible to produce from such threads, not only cotton or woolen items but also, and this in a very unexpectedly, fabrics which perfectly imitate those made to date from natural silk and which are used in particular in furniture.
Ce résultat inattendu qui ne pouvait pas être prévu par les techniciens compte tenu des caractéristiques que présentent de tels fils et des applications envisagées à ce jour est obtenu, conformément à l'invention :
- d'une part, en utilisant le fil polyester à aspect fibres précité uniquement en tant que trame,
- d'autre part, en utilisant comme fil de chaîne un fil d'un type bien déterminé parmi tous ceux connus à ce jour, à savoir un fil à base de filaments de polyester présentant une section multilobée, ce fil ayant par ailleurs, avant tissage, reçu une torsion voile et ayant été soumis à un traitement thermique de rétraction.
- on the one hand, using the aforementioned fiber-like polyester yarn only as a weft,
- on the other hand, using as warp thread a thread of a well-defined type among all those known to date, namely a thread based on polyester filaments having a multi-lobed section, this thread having moreover, before weaving , received a veil twist and having been subjected to a heat shrinkage treatment.
Par ailleurs, les fils de trame à aspect fibre et les fils de chaîne seront, de préférence, teints en fils avant ourdissage et tissage.Furthermore, the weft yarns with a fiber appearance and the warp yarns will preferably be dyed into yarns before warping and weaving.
De plus, l'aspect soie du tissu réalisé conformément à l'invention peut également être accentué en utilisant comme armure une armure satin afin de mettre en valeur la section multilobée du fil chaîne.In addition, the silk aspect of the fabric produced in accordance with the invention can also be accentuated by using satin weave as weave in order to enhance the multilobed section of the warp thread.
L'invention et les avantages qu'elle apporte seront cependant mieux compris grâce aux deux exemples de réalisation donnés ci-après à titre indicatif mais non limitatif.The invention and the advantages which it brings will however be better understood thanks to the two embodiments given below by way of indication but not limitation.
On réalise un tissu Jacquard dont l'effet est constitué par de petits pois ayant un diamètre de 0,2 cm et espacés les uns des autres de 1,45 cm.A Jacquard fabric is produced, the effect of which consists of small dots with a diameter of 0.2 cm and spaced from each other by 1.45 cm.
Le tissage est réalisé de manière conventionnelle, les effets étant obtenus par la trame et le fond étant à base d'une armure satin de cinq.The weaving is carried out in a conventional manner, the effects being obtained by the weft and the bottom being based on a satin weave of five.
Conformément à l'invention, comme fil de trame, on utilise un fil de polyester, multifilamen- taire, de type F.A.F. de la société RHONE POULENC FIBRES, commercialisé sous la marque POMTELLA. Ce fil a un titre de 167 Dtex et comporte 66 brins. Il a été préalablement teint en fil avant utilisation.According to the invention, as the weft thread, a polyester thread, multifilament, of the F.A.F. type, is used. RHONE POULENC FIBERS, marketed under the brand POMTELLA. This thread has a title of 167 Dtex and has 66 strands. It was dyed beforehand before use.
Lors du tissage, la trame est insérée à raison de 26,6 coups/cm.During weaving, the weft is inserted at the rate of 26.6 strokes / cm.
En ce qui concerne la chaîne, on utilise comme fils des fils de polyester-72 dtex/33 brins - les brins ayant une section multilobée.As for the warp, polyester-72 dtex / 33-strand yarns are used as strands - strands having a multi-lobed section.
Avant tissage, ces fils ont reçu une torsion voile de 600 tours/mètre et sont teints en fil. Ils reçoivent par ailleurs un traitement de rétraction, le faux de retrait étant tel que la torsion finale du fil est de l'ordre de 700 tours/mètre.Before weaving, these threads have received a veil twist of 600 turns / meter and are dyed in thread. They also receive a shrinkage treatment, the false withdrawal being such that the final twist of the wire is of the order of 700 turns / meter.
La densité en chaîne est de 100 fils/centimètre.The warp density is 100 threads / centimeter.
A la tombée du métier, on obtient un tissu qui, pour 130 cms de largeur pèse 196 grammes (par mètre carré : 143 grammes).When the loom falls, we obtain a fabric which, for a width of 130 cm, weighs 196 grams (per square meter: 143 grams).
Ce tissu présentait un aspect et un toucher imitant parfaitement un article qui aurait été réalisé en totalité à partir de soie naturelle.This fabric had an aspect and a touch perfectly imitating an article which would have been made entirely from natural silk.
On réalise un tissu conforme à l'invention dont la chaîne est à disposition afin d'obtenir des rayures.A fabric according to the invention is produced, the warp of which is available in order to obtain scratches.
La trame est une trame similaire à celle de l'exemple 1, le tissage étant cependant réalisé en ayant une réduction de 29,5 coups/centimètre.The weft is a weft similar to that of Example 1, the weaving however being carried out with a reduction of 29.5 strokes / centimeter.
La chaîne est constituée par une alternance de fils polyester multilobés, ayant également reçu une torsion voile de 600 tours/mètre et un traitement de rétraction donnant une torsion finale d'environ 700 tours/mètre. Ces fils ont un titre de 72 dtex et 33 brins.The chain is made up of alternating multi-lobed polyester yarns, which have also received a veil twist of 600 turns / meter and a shrinkage treatment giving a final twist of around 700 turns / meter. These threads have a title of 72 dtex and 33 strands.
Les fils sont teints dans des coloris différents et l'ourdissage est réalisé de manière à avoir une alternance de 80 fils/centimètre dans une couleur et de 10 fils/centimètre dans une autre.The threads are dyed in different colors and the warping is carried out so as to have an alternation of 80 threads / centimeter in one color and 10 threads / centimeter in another.
Le remettage est réalisé en plusieurs corps à disposition.The storage is carried out in several bodies available.
Dans les zones comportant 80 fils/centimètre, l'armure est une armure gros de tours alors que dans les autres, l'armure utilisée est une armure satin de cinq.In the areas with 80 threads / centimeter, the weave is a coarse weave while in the others, the weave used is a satin weave of five.
On obtient à la tombée du métier un tissu pesant 139 grammes/m2 qui non seulement comporte des rayures d'aspect différent (par la couleur et l'armure) mais également a un toucher et un aspect imitant parfaitement un tissu similaire réalisé en totalité en soie naturelle.At the end of the trade, a fabric weighing 139 grams / m 2 is obtained which not only has stripes of different appearance (by color and weave) but also has a feel and an appearance perfectly imitating a similar fabric produced entirely. in natural silk.
Les deux exemples qui précèdent montrent bien les avantages apportés par l'invention et notamment le fait qu'il est possible d'obtenir, à partir de fils synthétiques, des tissus imitant parfaitement ceux réalisés en soie naturelle, ce qui est totalement inattendu, compte tenu du fait que les fils de trame utilisés étaient, à ce jour, proposés uniquement pour obtenir des touchers laine ou coton.The two preceding examples clearly show the advantages provided by the invention and in particular the fact that it is possible to obtain, from synthetic threads, fabrics perfectly imitating those made of natural silk, which is completely unexpected, account given that the weft threads used were, to date, only offered for obtaining wool or cotton touches.
Claims (4)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR8402794A FR2559792B1 (en) | 1984-02-21 | 1984-02-21 | POLYESTER YARN IMITATION FABRIC |
| FR8402794 | 1984-02-21 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0153258A1 EP0153258A1 (en) | 1985-08-28 |
| EP0153258B1 true EP0153258B1 (en) | 1987-09-30 |
Family
ID=9301339
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP85420020A Expired EP0153258B1 (en) | 1984-02-21 | 1985-02-07 | Woven fabric imitating silk with polyester-threads |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0153258B1 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE3560730D1 (en) |
| FR (1) | FR2559792B1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR960013896B1 (en) * | 1995-06-20 | 1996-10-10 | 주식회사 선경인더스트리 | Manufacturing method for suede fabric |
| DE19720107C2 (en) * | 1996-05-29 | 1999-09-30 | North Sails Group Inc | Sails and canvas that simulates a woven cloth made from natural fibers |
| CN109629078A (en) * | 2019-01-04 | 2019-04-16 | 重庆国际复合材料股份有限公司 | A kind of glass fabric and preparation method thereof and its application |
Family Cites Families (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE258687C (en) * | ||||
| DE1224213B (en) * | 1956-09-07 | 1966-09-01 | Mettler & Co A G | Natural silk-like fabric made of smooth cotton yarns and fancy yarns |
| FR1295177A (en) * | 1961-07-15 | 1962-06-01 | Hoechst Ag | Piece of fabric |
| DE2734045C3 (en) * | 1977-07-28 | 1985-08-08 | Coburger Fahnenfabrik August Koch Und Sohn - Bayerische Flaggendruckerei, 8630 Coburg | Fabric for flags, banners or the like. |
-
1984
- 1984-02-21 FR FR8402794A patent/FR2559792B1/en not_active Expired
-
1985
- 1985-02-07 DE DE8585420020T patent/DE3560730D1/en not_active Expired
- 1985-02-07 EP EP85420020A patent/EP0153258B1/en not_active Expired
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2559792B1 (en) | 1986-06-27 |
| EP0153258A1 (en) | 1985-08-28 |
| FR2559792A1 (en) | 1985-08-23 |
| DE3560730D1 (en) | 1987-11-05 |
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