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EP0095537B1 - Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilamentgarn, und daraus hergestellter Stoff - Google Patents

Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilamentgarn, und daraus hergestellter Stoff Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0095537B1
EP0095537B1 EP82302839A EP82302839A EP0095537B1 EP 0095537 B1 EP0095537 B1 EP 0095537B1 EP 82302839 A EP82302839 A EP 82302839A EP 82302839 A EP82302839 A EP 82302839A EP 0095537 B1 EP0095537 B1 EP 0095537B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
twist
yarn
terephthalate
fabric
woven
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
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EP82302839A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP0095537A1 (de
Inventor
Akio Kimura
Osamu Wada
Kohichi Iohara
Michikage Matsui
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Teijin Ltd
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Teijin Ltd
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Publication date
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Priority to DE8282302839T priority Critical patent/DE3270843D1/de
Priority to EP82302839A priority patent/EP0095537B1/de
Publication of EP0095537A1 publication Critical patent/EP0095537A1/de
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Publication of EP0095537B1 publication Critical patent/EP0095537B1/de
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/30Crêped or other highly-twisted yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/547Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads with optical functions other than colour, e.g. comprising light-emitting fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a high twist polyester multifilament yarn, a crepe fabric made therefrom, and a process for preparing a crepe fabric.
  • woven or knitted crepe fabrics composed of high twist yarns exhibit a unique hand and appearance when processed into clothing products, and, therefore, are widely used.
  • Various types of woven or knitted crepe fabrics composed of high twist yarns consisting of filaments of thermoplastic synthetic polymers have been heretofore proposed.
  • the woven or knitted crepe fabric are produced by highly twisting: polyester filament yarns; treating the highly twisted yarns at a high temperature so as to temporarily heat set the torque, thereby attaining easy handling of the yarns in the preliminary process for converting the yarns into a woven or knitted fabric and in the process for making the woven or knitted fabric, converting the resultant yarns into a woven or knitted fabric; relaxing the resultant fabric in hot water so as to release the temporarily set untwisting torque of the highly twisted yarn, thereby producing the broken appearance termed "pebble" on the surface of the fabric; and drying, tentering, and setting the pebbled fabric.
  • this method cannot produce a woven or knitted crepe fabric having the well-defined pebble and excellent pebble configuration conventionally found in silk fabrics.
  • high twist yarns of conventional polyester filaments are twist set at a low temperature, the temporary heat setting of the high twist yarns is not satisfactory.
  • the handling of the resultant yarns in the preliminary process for conversion into a woven or knitted fabric and in the process for making the woven or knitted fabric becomes poor.
  • a large number of snarls are generated during the process of making the woven or knitted fabric, which may detract from the quality of the resultant woven or knitted fabric.
  • the present invention provides a high twist polyester multifilament yarn having a twist of a twist multiplier K within a range between 15,000 and 25,000; made from polyester filaments consisting essentially of a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of ethylene terephthalate, trimethylene terephthalate, and tetramethylene terephthalate and/or a blend of two or more polymers of the monomers; and having a breaking elongation of not more than 60% and a shrinkage in boiling water of not more than 6%.
  • the polyester filaments useful for the high twist yarn according to the present invention may be obtained by melt spinning a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of ethylene terephthalate, trimethylene terephthalate, and tetramethylene terephthalate and/or a blend of two or more polymers of the monomers.
  • the alkylene terephthalate polymers and copolymers used in the present invention are highly compatible with each other because of the similarity in chemical structure, and, thus, any combination of the alkylene terephthalate polymers and copolymers in any proportion may be employed in the melt spinning.
  • the polyester filaments preferably consist of the copolymer or a combination of the copolymer and the blend.
  • the copolymer or the combination of the copolymer and the blend is preferably comprised of, based on the total weight, 20% to 90% by weight of ethylene terephthalate units, i.e., copolymerized ethylene terephthalate units in the copolymer and polyethylene terephthalate in the blend, and 80% to 10% by weight of trimethylene terephthalate units, i.e., copolymerized trimethylene terephthalate units in the copolymer and polytrimethylene terephthalate in the blend, and/or tetramethylene terephthalate units, i.e., copolymerized tetramethylene terephthalate units in the copolymer and polytetramethylene terephthalate in the blend.
  • ethylene terephthalate units i.e., copolymerized ethylene terephthalate units in the copolymer and polyethylene terephthalate in the blend
  • the polyester filament yarn used for the raw material of the high twist yarn of the present invention should have a breaking elongation of not more than 60% and a shrinkage in boiling water of not more than 6%. If the breaking elongation is more than 60%, the yarn may have poor handling in the weaving or knitting step and in the preparatory step thereof. Also, if the breaking elongation is more than 60% or the shinkage in boiling water is more than 6%, satisfactory pebbling effect may not be attained due to the thermally unstable configuration of the filaments of the yarn.
  • polyester filaments usable for the present invention consist essentially of the hereinbefore mentioned alkylene terephthalate polymers and/or copolymers.
  • the filaments may further contain high molecular weight or low molecular weight organic or inorganic substances for various purposes, copolymerized or blended, in an amount of not more than 5% of the total weight.
  • the polyester filament yarn is then subjected to twisting to impart a high twist multiplier K within a range between 15,000 and 25,000.
  • the twist multiplier K is represented by the following equation:
  • the polyester filament yarn may be sized prior to the twisting procedure.
  • the application of sizing may be determined depending on the intended pebble configuration. In order to obtain a deeper and larger pebble configuration, it is preferable to apply sizing process to the polyester filament yarns.
  • the sizing agent usable for the present invention may be selected from conventional sizing agents. Preferable sizing agents for the present invention are starch-based sizing agents, polyvinyl alcohol-based sizing agents, acryl-based sizing agents, and combinations thereof.
  • the high twist yarns are then subjected to a twist setting procedure.
  • the polyester filament yarns according to the present invention may be twist set at a relatively low temperature.
  • the twist setting procedure is carried out by wet heat setting at a temperature of from 70°C to 130°C or by dry heat setting at a temperature of from 70°C to 180°C. That is to say, in accordance with the present invention, a high twist setting effect can be obtained by carrying out the twist setting procedure at a relatively low temperature.
  • a blend of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with 50% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 was melted at a temperature of 290°C to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extruded through a spinneret under a usual condition. After the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled, they were wound up at a speed of 1,000 m/minute. The resultant undrawn filaments were drawn at a speed of 800 m/minute to prepare a polyester filament yarn of 50 denier/36 filaments having a density of 1.332 g/cm 3 and breaking elongation of 35.8%.
  • the polyester filament yarn was then highly twisted so as to provide a twist of 3,000 turns/m of the yarn.
  • the highly twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting process at various wet heat temperatures for 30 minutes. After the twist setting process was completed, the double twist number of the resultant yarn was determined as the untwisting torque of the resultant yarn.
  • a load of 2 mg/de was suspended from the middle portion of a high twist yarn having a length of 100 cm which had been twist set.
  • the ends of the yarn were joined together and the ,double twist numer (turns/50 cm) occurred in the yarn was measured.
  • the double twist number is one type of second twist which is developed due to the untwisting torque of the high twist yarn. The higher the untwisting torque, the higher the double twist number.
  • a filament yarn consisting of polyethylene terephthalate alone and having a count of 50 denier/36 filament was subjected to the same twisting and twist setting processes as those mentioned above. After the twist setting process was completed, the double twist number of the resultant yarn was measured. The relationship between the twist setting temperature and the double twist number is shown in Fig. 1.
  • the symbol I indicates the polyester filament yarn according to the present invention, while the symbol 11 indicates a conventional polyethylene terephthalate yarn.
  • the polyester filament yarn according to the present invention may have an excellent, twist setting ability, because ester interchange-copolymerization occurs to some degree between ethylene terephthalate-tetramethylene terephthalate, ethylene terephthalate-trimethylene terephthalate, and tetramethylene terephthalate-trimethylene terephthalate, or each polyester molecular chain is in a mobile state in the boundary between the blended polymers. Particularly, the behavior of the noncrystalline portions of each polyester is considered to be effective for providing such an excellent twist setting ability.
  • the polyester filament yarn has a more excellent twist setting ability in a high twist yarn or a higher pebbling effect in a fabric
  • the polyester filament yarn have a density of 1.300 g/cm 3 or more.
  • Such polyester filament yarn can be obtained by subjecting spun filaments to a drawing procedure or by carrying out a high speed melt spinning at a speed of from 3,000 to 3,500 m/min or more. Where the density of the polyester filament yarn is lower than 1.300 g/cm 2 , the resultant woven or knitted fabric may have a poor pebbling property.
  • the present invention also provides a high twist polyester multifilament yarn having a twist of a twist multiplier K within a range between 15,000 and 25,000; made from polyester filaments consisting of a composition of a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of ethylene terephthalate, trimethylene terephthalate, and tetramethylene terephthalate and/or a blend of two or more polymers of said monomers blended with 3 to 15% by weight, based on the weight of said copolymer and/or blend, of a noncrystalline polymer, and having a breaking elongation of not more than 60% and a shrinkage in boiling water of not more than 6%.
  • noncrystalline polymer there may preferably be employed those having a glass transition temperature of 70°C to 110°C, more preferably styrene polymers and methacrylate polymers.
  • the present invention further provides a woven or knitted crepe fabric consisting of or comprising a high twist polyester multifilament yarn having a twist of a twist multiplier K within a range between 15,000 and 25,000, made from polyester filaments consisting essentially of a copolymer of two or more monomers selected from the group consisting of ethylene terephthalate, trimethylene terephthalate, and tetramethylene terephthalate and/or blend of two or more polymers of the respective monomers.
  • such a woven or knitted crepe fabric may advantageously be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
  • the high twist yarn of the present invention exhibiting an excellent twist setting property at a low temperature is converted into a woven or knitted fabric in the same manner as mentioned above.
  • the woven or knitted fabric is subsequently subjected to a pebbling treatment in hot water at a temperature of from 80°C to 100°C, in a wet heating atmosphere at a temperature of from 80°C to 150°C, or in a dry heating atmosphere at a temperature of from 100°C to 200°C. After the pebbling treatment is completed, an excellent woven or knitted crepe fabric is obtained.
  • the polyester filament yarn exhibiting an excellent twist setting property enables a woven or knitted fabric having an excellent pebble which has not been obtained hitherto for.
  • the excellenttwist setting property is considered to be due to the copolymerized portion of the yarn of the behavior of the molecular chain in the boundary between the blended polymers of the yarn.
  • the excellent pebbling property is considered to be due to the elastic property of polytetramethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate.
  • the polyester filament yarn of the present invention can be twist set at a low temperature while it is in highly twisted state, such a low temperature twist setting being impossible with conventional polyester filament yarn.
  • the twist set yarn exhibits satisfactory handling.
  • the woven or knitted fabric prepared from the twist set yarn exhibits no unevenness in width and in pebble and exhibits a satisfactory pebbling property producing a high reduction in width.
  • the capability to carry out the twist setting treatment at a low temperature makes it possible to avoid a reduction in the pebble developing ability of the fabric when the fabric is subjected to the pebbling procedure.
  • a woven or knitted crepe fabric having an excellent pebble configuration is obtained.
  • a woven crepe fabric may also be prepared by a process comprising the steps of:
  • a yarn of the type (A) above as a warp or filling and yarn of the type (B) above as a filling or warp enables an excellent woven crepe fabric, such as crepe, striped crepe, or oriental crepe, having the excellent pebble configuration as appears on a silk crepe fabric. That is to say, a woven crepe fabric having an excellent pebbling property and pebble configuration can be prepared, according to the above-mentioned process of the present invention, by reducing the restricting force of the warp or filling of the type (A) yarn with respect to the filling or warp of the type (B) yarn so that the torque of the type (B) yarn can easily be developed.
  • the shrinkage in boiling water of the type (A) yarn is more than 8%, the shrinkage of the type (A) yarn may become large and increase the restricting force with respect to the type (B) yarn. If the birefringence is less than 0.05, the shrinkage in boiling water is too high and the type (A) yarn has the same drawback as mentioned above. On the other hand, if the birefringence is larger than 0.11, the type (A) yarn may have a too high flexural stiffness and prevent the type (B) yarn from satisfactorily developing .the torque.
  • the yarn of the type (A) may be obtained by various methods which may be easily understood by a person with ordinary skill in the art.
  • the yarn can be prepared by taking up spun filaments of a polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.5 to 0.8 at a speed of not less than 4,500 m/min.
  • the optimum taking up speed may vary largely depending on the molecular weight of the polyethylene terephthalate, the catalyst, additive or third component contained in the polymer, or the like.
  • the yarn can also be prepared by cooling the spun filaments below a glass transition temperature, then heating them to 100°C to 250°C, and finally taking them up at a speed of 1,500 to 4,500 m/min.
  • the yarn can be prepared by another method wherein a yarn of undrawn filaments taken up at a speed of 2,500 to 4,000 m/min is subjected to thermal relaxation by 2% to 8% at a temperature of not lower than 150°C and then subjected to low temperature drawing at a draw ratio of 1.2 to 1.5.
  • the yarn can be prepared by a further .
  • Blends of polyethylene terephthalate chips having ' an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 at various proportions were prepared. Each blend was melted at a temperature of from 285°C to 295°C to prepare a dope solution. The dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 72 holes.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were wound up at a speed of 1,000 m/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn and wound up at a speed of 800 m/min by means of a usual method.
  • the resultant drawn yarn of 100 denier/72 filaments was twisted by means of an Italian twisting machine to provide a twisted yarn having a twist of S2500 turns/m. Then, the twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting treatment at a temperature of 70°C for 30 minutes by means of a vacuum setter.
  • the physical properties of the drawn yarn, the double twist number of the resultant high twist yarn after the twist setting procedure, and the double twist number of the twist set yarn when immersed in boiling water are shown in Table 1.
  • the double twist number (T/50 cm) in boiling water was determined by suspending a load of 2 mg/de from the middle portion of the high twist yarn having a length of 100 cm, by joining together the ends of the yarn, and by immersing the yarn in boiling water.
  • the yarn was evaluated for weaving property (handling in the preliminary process for converting the yarn into a woven fabric and in the process for weaving) and pebbling property.
  • the results are indicated in Table 1.
  • Example 1 Each of the drawn yarns as prepared in Example 1 was highly twisted to provide a high twist yarn having a twist of 2,800 turns/m.
  • the twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting procedure.
  • the twist setting procedure was carried out for 30 minutes by means of a vacuum setter at a temperature such that the untwisting torque of the twisted yarn was 50 turns/50 cm or less, which temperature had been preliminarily determined in a laboratory.
  • the width reduction percentage after the pebbling as shown in Table 2 was determined according to the following equation. The higher the width reduction percentage, the better the pebbling property.
  • a blend of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with 50% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 was prepared.
  • the blend was melted at a temperature of 290°C to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 24 holes.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were taken up at a speed of 1,000 cm/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn at various draw ratio to prepare yarns Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 5, each having a different density.
  • a blend consisting of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64, 25% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 and 25% by weight of polytrimethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.96, was prepared.
  • the blend was melted at a temperature of 285°C to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extruded in a similar manner to that described above. Then, the undrawn filaments were drawn to prepare yarns .Nos. 4 and 6, each having a different density.
  • Each of the resultant drawn yarns having a count of 50 denier/24 filaments were subjected to a high twisting procedure (S and Z twist) to provide twisted yarns each having a twist of 3,000 turns/m.
  • the high twist yarns were heat treated at a wet heat temperature of 70°C for 30 minutes to temporarily set the twists of the yarn.
  • the yarns were converted into a plain weave fabric having a warp density of 32/cm of a weft density of 37/cm and comprising two S twist yarns and two Z twist yarns alternately.
  • the acting reed width was 120 cm, the warping length was 55 m, and the fabric length was 50 m.
  • the resultant gray fabric was subjected to a pebbling procedure in hot water at a temperature of 98°C for 30 minutes by means of a rotary washer in accordance with a usual method.
  • the width reduction percentage after the pebbling procedure and the pebbling property of the fabric are indicated in Table 3.
  • Blends of polyethylene terephthalate chips (dried at 160°C for 4 hours) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 containing 0.05% by weight of Ti0 2 as flatting agent with polytetramethylene terephthalate chips (dried at 120°C for 6 hours) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 at various proportions were prepared. Each blend was melted at a temperature of from 285°C to 295°C to prepare a dope solution. The dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 72 holes of a circular cross-section of 0.3 mm diameter.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were wound up at a speed of 1,000 m/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn and heat set on a hot roller at 180°C.
  • the resultant drawn yarn of 100 denier/72 filaments was twisted by means of an Italian twisting machine to provide a twisted yarn having a twist of S2500 turns/m. Then, the twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting treatment at a temperature of 90°C by means of a vacuum steam setter.
  • a fabric was woven on a water jet loom (Nissan WJL LW-41) at 360 rpm using as filling each of the high twist yarns as prepared in Example 4 and as warp a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn of 50 denier/36 filaments.
  • the fabric was scored with a weak alkali and pebbled on a rotary washer at boil for 20 min.
  • Blends of polyethylene terephthalate chips (dried at 160°C for 4 hours) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 containing 0.05% by weight of Ti0 2 and polytrimethylene terephthalate chips (dried at 120°C for 6 hours) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 were converted into drawn yarns and, then, high twist yarns, as described in Example 4.
  • Blends of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64, polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an instrinsic viscosity of 0.85 at various proportions, and polystyrene (Stryone 679, by Asahi Dow Co.) were prepared. Each blend was melted at a temperature of from 285°C to 295°C to prepare a dope solution. The dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 72 holes of a circular cross-section of a 0.25 mm diameter.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were wound up at a speed of 1,000 m/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn at a preheating temperature of 80°C and heat set on a hot roller at 180°C by rapping the filaments on the roller 8 times.
  • the resultant drawn yarn was twisted to provide a twisted yarn having a twist of 2,500 turns/m. Then, the twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting treatment at a temperature of 90°C by means of a steam bath.
  • a fabric was woven on a water jet loom (Nissan WJL LW-41) at 360 rpm using as filling each of the high twist yarns (except for No. 7 yarn) as prepared in Example 7 and as warp a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn of 50 denier/36 filaments.
  • the fabric was scored with a weak alkali and pebbled on a rotary washer at boil for 20 min.
  • Blends of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 at various proportions were prepared. Each blend was melted at a temperature of from 285°C to 295°C to prepare a dope solution. The dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 72 holes.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were wound up at a speed of 1,000 m/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn between a feed roller at 80°C and a drawing roller at 180°C at a draw ratio of 3.0, heat treated at 200°C, and wound up at a speed of 800 m/min by means of a usual method.
  • the resultant drawn yarn of 100 denier/72 filaments was twisted by means of an Italian twisting machine to provide a twisted yarn having a twist of S2500 turns/m. Then, the twisted yarn was subjected to a twist setting treatment at a temperature of 70°C for 30 minutes by means of a vacuum setter.
  • a blend of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with 50% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 was prepared.
  • the blend was melted at a temperature of 296°C to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extended through a spinneret having 24 holes.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resistant filaments were taken up at a speed of 1000 cm/min.
  • the undrawn filaments were drawn at various draw ratios to prepare yarns Nos. 1, 2, 5, and 7, each having a different density and shrinkage in boiling water.
  • a blend consisting of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64, 25% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.36, and 25% by weight of polytrimethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.96 was prepared.
  • the blend was melted at a temperature of 285°C'to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extruded in a similar manner to that described above. Then, the undrawn filaments were drawn to prepare yarns Nos. 2, 4, and 6, each having a different density and shrinkage in boiling water.
  • Each of the resultant drawn yarns having a count of 50 denier/24 filaments was subjected to a high twisting procedure (S and Z twist) to provide a twisted yarn, each having a twist of 3000 turns/m.
  • the high twist yarns were heat treated at a wet heat temperature of 70°C for 30 minutes to temporarily set the twists of the yarn.
  • the yarns were converted into a plain weave fabric having a warp density of 32/cm and a weft density of 37/cm and comprising two S twist yarns and two Z twist yarns alternately.
  • the acting reed width was 120 cm, the warping length was 55 m, and the fabric length was 50 m.
  • the resultant gray fabric was subjected to a pebbling procedure in hot water at a temperature of 98°C for 30 minutes by means of a rotary washer in accordance with the usual method.
  • the width reduction percentage after the pebbling procedure and the pebbling property of the fabric are shown in Table 10.
  • a polyethylene terephthalate of an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 was melt spun at 290°C through a spinneret of 24 holes, and the spun filaments were taken up at a speed of 5,000 m/min.
  • the resultant polyester filament yarn (A) of 75 denier/24 filaments was then twisted at a low twist of S300 turns/m and warped at a warp density of 50/cm.
  • a blend of 50% by weight of polyethylene terephthalate chips having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 with 50% by weight of polytetramethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.86 was prepared.
  • the blend was melted at a temperature of 290°C to prepare a dope solution.
  • the dope solution was extruded through a spinneret having 24 holes.
  • the extruded filaments were cooled and oiled under usual conditions, after which the resultant filaments were taken up at a speed of 1000 cm/min.
  • the resultant undrawn yarn was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.0 between a feed roller at 80°C and a drawing roller at 180°C, heat treated at 200°C, and taken up at 800 m/min.
  • the drawn yarn of 75 denier/24 filament was twisted at S2500 turns/m and subjected to wet heat twist setting at 80°C for 30 min.
  • a plain woven fabric was prepared. The fabric was then subjected to pebbling in hot water at 98°C on a rotary washer for 20 min. or by a continuous pebbling procedure for 5 min.
  • a polyethylene terephthalate of an intrinsic viscosity of 0.64 was melt spun at 290°C through a spinneret of 24 holes and the spun filaments were taken up at a speed of 1,200 m/min.
  • the resultant undrawn yarn was drawn at draw ratio of 3.3 on a draw pin at 90°C at a speed of 500 m/min and taken up after bringing it in touch with a hot plate of a 30 cm length at 180°C.
  • the drawn yarn of 75 denier/24 filaments was twisted at a low twist of S300 turns/m and warped at a warp density of 50/cm. Then, a plain fabric was prepared and treated, as mentioned above.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
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Claims (9)

1. Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilament-Garn mit einer Drehung von einem Drehungsmultiplikator K=(Anzahl der Drehungen pro Meter)x
Figure imgb0015
zwischen 15,000 und 25,000 und mit einer Bruchdehnung von nicht mehr als 60% und mit einer Schrumpfung in kochendem Wasser von nicht mehr als 6%, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß es aus Polyester-Filamenten gemacht ist, die im wesentlichen aus einem Copolymer zweier oder mehrerer Monomere bestehen, welche aus der Gruppe ausgewählt sind, die besteht aus; Äthylenterephthalat, Trimethylenterephthalat, Tetramethylenterephthalat, und/oder einer Mischung aus zwei oder mehreren Polymeren der betreffenden Monomere.
2. Stark gedrehtes Garn gemäß Anspruch 1, bei dem die Polyester-Filaments aus dem Copolymer oder einer Kombination der Copolymere bestehen und bei dem die Mischung-bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht-aus 20 bis 90 Gew.-% Äthylenterephthalat-Einheiten und 80 bis 10 Gew.-% Trimethylenterephalat-und/oder Tetramethylenterephthalat-Einheiten besteht.
3. Stark gedrehtes Garn gemäß Anspruch 1 oder 2, bei dem die Polyester-Filamente eine Temperatur von 220 bis 255°C haben, bei der auf einer Schrumpfspannung/Temperaturkurve die Schrumpfspannung der Filamente aufgrund des Verschmelzens zu Null wird.
4. Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilament-Garn gemäß Anspruch 1, bei dem das Copolymer mit 3 bis 15 Gew.-%-bezogen auf das Gewicht des Copolymers und/oder der Mischung-eines nicht-kristallinen Styrol- oder Methacrylat-Polymers gemischt wird.
5. Gewebter oder gestrickter Kreppstoff, welcher aus einem stark gedrehten Polyester-Multifilament-Garn besteht oder dieses enthält, wobei das stark gedrehte Garn einen Drehungsmultiplikator K=(Anzahl der Drehungen pro m)x den zwischen 15,000 und 25,000 besitzt und aus Polyester-Filamenten hergestellt ist, die im wesentlichen aus einem Copolymer von zwei oder mehr Monomeren bestehen, welche aus der Gruppe ausgewählt sind, die besteht aus: Äthylenterephthalat, Trimethylenterephthalat, Tetramethylenterephthalat, und/oder einer Mischung von zwei oder mehreren Polymeren der betreffenden Monomere.
6. Verfahren zum Herstellen eines gewebten oder gestrickten Kreppstoffes, welches folgende Schritte umfaßt:
Man unterwirft eine Spinnmasse dem Spinnen und Strecken, um ein Garn von Polyester-Filamenten zu erhalten, welche in kochendem Wasser eine Schrumpfung von nicht mehr als 6%, eine Dichte von nicht weniger als 1,300 g/cm3 und eine Bruchdehnung von nicht mehr als 60% haben;
man unterwirft das Polyester-Multifilament-Garn dem Drehen, um eine Drehung zu erzeugen, die einen Drehungsmultiplikator K=(Anzahl der Drehungen pro m)xVden zwischen 15,000 und 25,000 hat;
man unterwirft das stark gedrehte Garn einer Fixierung der Drehung;
man stellt unter Verwendung des stark gedrehten Garns einen gewebten oder gestrickten Stoff her, der aus diesem stark gedrehten Garn besteht oder dieses enthält;
und man unterwirft den gewebten oder gestrickten Stoff dann einer Gaufrierbehandlung, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Spinnmasse das Copolymer von zwei oder mehreren Monomeren enthält, die ausgewählt sind aus der Gruppe, die besteht aus:
Äthylenterephthalat, Trimethylenterephthalat, Tetramethylenterephthalat, und/oder aus einer Mischung von zwei oder mehr Polymeren der betreffenden Monomere.
7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, bei dem das Fixieren der Drehung als nasse Wärmefixierung bei einer Temperatur von 70 bis 130°C ausgeführt wird.
8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, bei dem das Fixieren der Drehung als trockene Wärmefixierung bei einer Temperatur von 70 bis 180°C ausgeführt wird.
9. Verfahren zum Herstellen eines gewebten Kreppstoffes, welches folgende Schritte umfaßt:
Man webt ein Mischgewebe unter Verwendung von:
(A) einem Polyester-Multifilament-Garn mit einer Schrumpfung in kochendem Wasser von nicht mehr als 8% und einer Doppelbrechung An von 0,05 bis 0,11 und (B) einem stark gedrehten Polyester-Multifilament-Garn gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4 mit einer Dichte von nicht weniger als 1,300 g/cm3 und
man unterwirft den gewebten Stoff dann einer Gaufrierbehandlung.
EP82302839A 1982-06-02 1982-06-02 Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilamentgarn, und daraus hergestellter Stoff Expired EP0095537B1 (de)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE8282302839T DE3270843D1 (en) 1982-06-02 1982-06-02 High twist polyester multi-filament yarn and fabric made therefrom
EP82302839A EP0095537B1 (de) 1982-06-02 1982-06-02 Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilamentgarn, und daraus hergestellter Stoff

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EP82302839A EP0095537B1 (de) 1982-06-02 1982-06-02 Stark gedrehtes Polyester-Multifilamentgarn, und daraus hergestellter Stoff

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EP0095537A1 EP0095537A1 (de) 1983-12-07
EP0095537B1 true EP0095537B1 (de) 1986-04-30

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Families Citing this family (5)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2614045B1 (fr) * 1987-04-16 1989-07-28 Brochier Sa Tissu a base de fibres de verre et de polyester, et articles comprenant un tel tissu
DE19944029C2 (de) * 1998-09-14 2002-06-27 Inst Textil & Faserforschung Garne aus Polymermischungsfasern oder -filamenten auf der Basis von Polyethylen-, Polybutylen- und Polytrimethylenterephthalat sowie deren Verwendung
EP2503037B1 (de) * 2011-03-23 2021-04-28 Autoliv Development AB Stoff zur Verwendung bei der Herstellung eines aufblasbaren Airbags
CN102367616B (zh) * 2011-12-07 2013-07-24 吴江市凯灵喷水织造厂 加捻乱纹布的织造方法
WO2015152998A1 (en) * 2014-02-12 2015-10-08 E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company A bicomponent georgette fabric and method of manufacture thereof

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US3977175A (en) * 1973-12-13 1976-08-31 Teijin Limited Draw-texturing polyester yarns
GB1458561A (en) * 1974-03-07 1976-12-15 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Polyester fibres having excellent dyeability
JPS53106840A (en) * 1977-02-25 1978-09-18 Teijin Ltd Method of manufacture of polyester filament yarn to be harddtwisted for crepe woven or knitted fabric
JPS53130351A (en) * 1977-04-18 1978-11-14 Toyobo Petcord High tenacity polyester textile goods for reinforcing rubber wares

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DE3270843D1 (en) 1986-06-05

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