DK165388B - PROCEDURE AND PREPARATION FOR CONDITIONING HER - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to compositions useful for conditioning hair and methods for conditioning hair using such compositions.

It is known to treat hair with certain quaternary ammonium compounds for the purpose of conditioning the hair, ie. to improve its visibility, complacency, softness, etc. Although such known compositions have been found to be effective to varying degrees, one of the main drawbacks has been that the effect has not been of longer duration, ie. that it does not survive repeated washings.

US Patent No. 4,155,994 discloses a method of conditioning hair wherein the hair is applied to an effective amount of an emulsion containing a condensation product between 1,4-dichloro-2-butene and 1,4-bis-dimethylamino-2. butene. The condensation product differs from the polymer of type (ii) (Onamer M) used in the invention in that said condensation product does not contain triethanol ammonium-terminal groups. Furthermore, the condensation product is relatively undetermined, as a specification of the molecular weight is lacking.

US Patent No. 4,080,310 discloses an amphoteric conditioning hair washing agent comprising cationic polyamide polymers, upon which a low molecular weight apidic acid / diethylenetriamine polyamide, such as "Delsette 101", is a typical example, copolymers of a vinyl pyrrolidone and a dimethylaminoethyl ether. with di ethyl sul fat such as "Gafquat 755", cationic starch and cellulose derivatives such as "Cato starch" and "Polymer JR".

The prior art gives no indication of a hair conditioner which retains the effect on hair even after it has been repeatedly washed.

Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a hair conditioning composition which retains its conditioning effect through repeated hair washes.

It is also an object of the present invention to provide a method of treating hair using the aforementioned composition which has a conditioning effect on the hair which is relatively stable to repeated washings.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the desired effect is provided with a composition for conditioning hair pre-treated with an alkaline agent which leaves the hair with alkaline pH which is peculiar in that based on the total composition of the composition.

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2 weight, contains: (a) from ca. 0.4 to approx. 10% of at least one cationic polymer selected inter alia: (i) homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride having a molecular weight in the range of about 4,000 to approx. 550,000, (i i) poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -α, ω-bis (triethanol-ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of about 800 to approx.

And (iii) polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinyl pyridine 10 described by the general formula CH2 'CH-- - --CH2 - CH--

In p ®K-R

O or O x “N X- f

R

n * - -i "20 wherein n is a number depending on the molecular weight, R is a C 2 O 2 alk / Ira" dical, and X ~ is a cosmetically acceptable anion, which polymers (iii) have a molecular weight in the range of about 5,000 to about 100,000, 25 (b) from about 0.2 to about 20% of an amphoteric surfactant, and (c) acid in an amount sufficient to give the composition a pH in the range of about 1 to about 6, and (d) an aqueous carrier, the ratio of [polymer (more)] α = ---------------- [detergent (mol)] wherein polymer (more) ) denotes the number of moles of the repeat units in the polymer carrying a positive charge, and detergent (moles) denotes the number of moles of detergent having a value in the range of from about 0.2 35 to about 5. If desired, the composition can be also comprise an effective amount, such as from about 0.1% to about 5% of a betaine of formula CH.

s, I

R-N + - CH2C00 “CH3 10 wherein R * is a long chain al in fatty radical with from approx. 10 to approx. 24 carbon atoms. The present invention also encompasses a method of conditioning hair previously treated with an alkaline pH agent by application of the composition of the invention thereto.

The cationic polymers useful for the purposes of the invention may vary somewhat. Three classes of polymers which have been found to be particularly useful are those sold under the trademarks "MERQUAT" (e.g., "MERQUAT 100"), "0NAMER" (e.g., "0NAMER M"), and quaternized polyvinylchloride. nylpyridin. "MERQUAT 100" is a polymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and is likely to be mixtures of compounds of the following formula (A) (B> - Ί <- CH_ CH- .¾ / 2 \ / N / ^ 25 CH-CK - CH - CH CH-- II- li

K, c CHp CH2 CH

\ / - Λ / -, Λ N + Cl N + Cl 30 / · \ i / ^ K3C CK3 n | CH3 CH3 __ n wherein n is a molecular weight dependent cardinal number. The molecular weight may vary, but the polymers used in this class have a molecular weight in the range of from 4000 to 550,000 and preferably in the range of from about.

20,000 to approx. 100,000.

The NONAMER "type polymers which are * useful for the present invention

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4 targets are poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -α, w-bis (methanol ethanol chlorides), which can be described by the formula% 5 [I in (HO-CH 2 CH 2) C 4 H 6 - tP-CH 2 -CH = CH-CH 2 - t P - (CH2'CH2OH) 3ch310 wherein n is a molecular weight dependent cardinal number.

The molecular weights of these "0 NAMER" type polymers which may be used herein may also vary somewhat: however, they will be in the range of from 800 to approx. 5000 and preferably in the range of from approx. 1000 to approx. 3000th

The polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylpyridine which can be used in accordance with the invention are described by the general formula

r-a 1 —C ~ CH ^ - C ?: _ZL

20 —TC 2 - L 2 I

Ynn. f - -R

I, or j R X Γ X "n 25 L -1 n L _ 11 where n is a molecular weight-dependent cardinal number, R is a C 1-4 alkyl radical, and X" is a cosmetically acceptable anion such as halide, sulfate or carboxyl. These will have a weight average molecular weight in the range of 30 from approx. 5000 to approx. 100,000.

As an example of the cationic polymer in this group, the following are mentioned 5 5 Γ- π -LCH-- CH - 2 .χ 5 _ ^ η3 ”η polyvinylmethylpyridinium iodide in which n is a molecular weight-dependent cardinal number. Suitably, the wetting agent molecular weight is approx. 50,000.

The amount of cationic polymer contained in the present aqueous solutions will depend upon the particular results desired. It will be between approx. 0.4 and approx. 10% by weight based on the total weight of the aqueous composition, with an optimum range between approx. 1 15 and approx. 5% on this weight basis.

The other essential component of the compositions of the invention are the amphoteric surfactants. One characteristic of these materials is that many take on the character of an anionic or a cationic surfactant depending on the pH of the solution in which they are contained. There are several amphoteric detergents suitable for use in the present invention. However, two classes of detergents have been found to be particularly effective. The first class can be defined by the formula 25 CH2COOSa

r_c _ n + _ch2ch2och2cc <T

30 N CH-

V

wherein R is a long chain fatty radical having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of this is a compound or compounds wherein R is 35

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6 draws coconut fat radicals. A material of this nature is marketed under the trademark "MIRANOL C2MSF" and is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under the name amphoteric-2.

Another class of amphoteric detergents which are particularly effective for the purposes of the invention can be defined by the formula r-nh-ch2-ch2-cooh wherein R is a long chain fatty cooling group having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

An example of such a detergent is marketed under the trademark "DERI-PHAT 170C", in which R is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl fatty fatty groups. This material is described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) as 1 auraminopropionic acid.

The amount of amphoteric detergent which will be contained in the composition 15 of the invention will vary somewhat, again depending on the economy and the results sought. It will range from approx. 0.2 to approx. 20% by weight and ideally in the range of approx. 1 to approx. 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

Another essential feature of the present composition is that the solution has an acidic pH, i.e. a pH which decreases in the range of approx. 1 to 6. To adjust the pH of these preparations to the proper level, any of the various acids can be used. Hydrochloric, citric and phosphoric acids have been found to be particularly useful and suitable.

The betaines which are optionally useful for the purposes of the invention have the formula CH, R— N + _ ch 2 C

30 I

wherein R is a long chain aliphatic radical of 10 to 24 atoms. The term long chain aliphatic radical used herein includes saturated and unsaturated straight and branched chain radicals, both hydrocarbon radicals and radicals which include in the chain heteroatoms (e.g. oxygen and nitrogen).

For illustration of typical betainer which can be used in connection! -

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7 with the invention may be mentioned cocamidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, cetyl betaine, coconut betaine, etc. Cocamidopropyl betaine is described by the formula 0 CH,

5 in L

R C - NH - (CH2) 3 - N + - CH2 - C00 ch3 wherein R- (C = O) - is the coconut fatty acid radical. Coconut fatty acid is a mixture of fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, which is mainly C12 acids. Oleyl betaine, on the other hand, has the formula CH3

15 I

CH3 (CH2) 7CH = CH (CH2) 7-CH2-N + -CH2-COO 'ch3

Structurally, coconut betaine and cetyl betaine are similar to the oleyl betaine shown above, except that the oleyl radical is replaced by respectively. coconut fat radicals or cetyl radical et. A number of betainees useful for the purposes of the invention are commercially available. These include "CHEMADENE NA 30", "LONZAINE 12C", "LONZAINE 14C", "LONZAINE

165 ", etc.

The amount of betaine which can be incorporated into the composition may vary. It will be between approx. 0.1 and approx. 5% by weight and preferably between ca. 0.3 and approx. 3% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

Although the cationic polymers, the amphoteric surfactants 30 and the acids mentioned above are the essential active ingredients of the present compositions, the compositions of the present invention may also contain other ingredients which may serve to improve the organoleptic nature of the product or the ease with which it is applied. Thus, it is within the scope of the invention to incorporate one or more of such materials as fragrances, thickeners, fragrance solubilizers, bactericides, etc. into the present compositions.

If desired, in the compositions of the invention,

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8 different solvents. These will usually be in the form of an all in -phatic alcohol, either a monohydroxy or a polyhydroxy alcohol, preferably having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. As used herein, the term "aliphatic alcohol" is used in the generic sense and includes such alcohols as straight and branched chain alkyls, which may be monohydroxy or polyhydroxy (e.g. dihydroxy) ether alcohols, ester alcohols, etc. illustration of the solvents which may be useful for the present composition may be mentioned ethanol, carbitol, hexylene glycol and propylene glycol. The solvents can be used in 10 amounts from 0 to approx. 50% by weight and preferably in the range of 0 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

If desired, a neutral surfactant may also be incorporated into the compositions of the invention. These will amount to between 0 and 10% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation, but a range of 15% to 2% by weight is more preferred. Suitable examples of such neutral surfactants are "Igepal CO- 630" (CTFA name nonoxynol-9), "Arlasolve 200" (polyoxyethylene (20) isohexadecyl ether) and "Tween 20" (CTFA name polysorbate 20).

To facilitate the application of the present compositions to the hair, it is often useful to increase their viscosity somewhat. Many thickeners can be used for this purpose. These include hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose and Carbopol®, e.g. Carbopol® 940. However, hydroxyethyl cellulose has proven to be particularly suitable. The concentration of the thickener may vary somewhat depending on the desired result. They will usually be present in an amount in the range of from 0 to approx. 10% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is often useful to incorporate a bactericide into the compositions of the invention. In the art various materials are known which will serve for this purpose. For example, a material sold under the trademark "D0WICIL 200" is mentioned. It is identified in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 2nd edition, as quaternium-15 and chemically as 1- (3-chloroallyl) -3,5,7-triaza-1-azonia adamantane chloride. The amount of bactericide which will be contained in the present compositions will vary somewhat depending on the nature of the particular composition. However, it will usually be between 0 and approx. 10% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

In addition to the absolute amounts of the cationic polymer and the amphoteric detergent contained in the present compositions, it has been found that their conditioning efficiency is highly dependent on the "molar ratio" between polymer and detergent. The term "molar ratio" as used herein is denoted by the letter α and is defined as 5 [polymer (s)] α = ---------------- [detergent (mol)] 10 In the above terms and elsewhere in the specification and claims, the term [polymer (s)] refers to the number of moles of the repeating units of the polymer contained in the composition which carry a positive charge. The term [detergent (moles)] in the aforementioned term and elsewhere is defined as the number of moles of detergent contained in the composition. The ratio α may vary somewhat. It will range from approx. 0.2 to approx. 5 and preferably in the range of about 1 to approx. 2nd

The invention also relates to a method for conditioning hair as claimed in claim 13.

The compositions of the invention can be applied to the hair in any suitable manner. A typical procedure involves applying the conditioner composition, as described in Example 1 below, to freshly dyed or bleached hair, gently incorporating it into the hair mass, leaving the composition on the hair for 1 to 3 minutes and rinsing the hair carefully with water before applying it. free cured and dried. The amount of conditioning composition applied to the hair may vary, but should generally not be less than 1% of the weight of the hair and need not exceed 20% of the weight of the hair.

It is envisaged that it will generally be the case that the compositions of the invention are applied to hair which has previously received a treatment which leaves the hair somewhat alkaline. Such a treatment is typically a treatment with oxidation hair dye systems or bleaching systems. Such treatment involves mixing a color base which, among other things, containing the oxidation dye intermediates, with an aqueous carrier containing an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, and then this mixture washes into the hair. These mixtures, before they are applied to the hair, usually have an alkaline pH, e.g. in the range of from 7 to 12 and preferably from 8 to 11. Another such treatment involves, for example, treating the hair with an alkaline bleach solution containing the semen.

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10 common oxidizing agents (e.g., aqueous hydrogen peroxide), initiators (e.g., potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate), alkalinizing agents, etc.

When the compositions of the invention are applied to hair previously treated as indicated above, the combination of amphoteric detergent and cationic polymer precipitates on the hair to form a conditioning complex which is retained on the hair through repeated washings.

The pH of the hair conditioning compositions used in the present invention will to some extent be selected on the basis of the alkalinity of the hair to be treated and the relative amounts of cationic polymers and amphoteric detergent. Generally, the pH is selected so that after the composition is applied to the hair and under the effect of the alkalinity of the hair, the pH of the composition is increased by about 1 pH unit, over which the precipitation of the complex takes place. In general, it appears that the optimum precipitation of the conditioning complex occurs under these conditions.

The following examples serve to further illustrate the present invention.

When the CTFA name is specified herein, reference is made to the name given to the material in the 1973 CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary or the 2nd edition of 1977.

Example 1

Ingredients Weight Percent * "Merquat 100" 2.00 25 "Miranol C2MSF" 4.00

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric Acid 1.60

Scented 0.10

Water up to 100.00 pH 4.5 • k CTFA name quaternium-40 CTFA name amphoteric-2 35

Example 2 11

Ingredients Weight percent "Onamer M" 1.00 "Miranol C2MSF" 2.00 5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric acid 0.90

Scented 0.10

Water up to 100.00 pH 4.5 10 poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -a, 1-bis (triethanol ammonium chloride) Average mole weight approx. 1000-2000

Example 3

Ingredients Weight percent 15 Poly-4-vinylmethylpyridinium iodide 2.00 "Miranol C2MSF" 4.00

Hydroxyethyl cell lul ose 2.00

Phosphoric Acid 1.60

Scent 0.10 20 Water up to 100.00 pH 4.5

Example 4

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12

Ingredients Weight percent

Poly-4-vinylaurylpyridine sulfate 1.00 "Merquat 100" 1.00 "Miranol C2MSF" 4.00

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric Acid 1.60

Scented 0.10

Water up to 100.00 pH 4.5

Example 5

Ingredients Weight percent "Merquat 100" 3.50 15 "Miranol C2MSF" 1.75

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Sodium hydroxide 0.01

Phosphoric acid 0.07

Ethanol 4.00 20 "Chemadene NA-30" 1 2.00

Water up to 100.00 pH 4.5 1

Manufactured by Richardson Chemical Company. The CTFA name is 25 cocamidopropyl betaine.

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13

Example 6

As in Example 5, except that 2.00% oleyl betaine was used instead of the cocamidopropyl betaine used in Example 5. This preparation had a pH of 4.5.

5

Ingredients Weight percent

Ex. 7 Ex. 8 Ex. 9 "Merquat 100" 5.00 ^ 10 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2,250 ^

Phosphoric acid 0.450

Sodium Hydroxide 0.015 + "Miranol C2MSE" 2.560

Sorbic Acid 0,100 (15) Dowicil 200 (0.100)

Carbitol 3.00 ^

Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.600

Scented 0.400.

"Tween 20" ..... 0.001 .....

20 "Arlasolve 200" ----- ----- 0.001

Water up to 100% pH 4.8 4.5 4.5 * CTFA name quaternium-15 CTFA name polysorbate-20 'k'ic ^ c 25 Polyoxyethylene (20) isohexadecyl ether

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14

Ingredients Weight percent

Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex. Ex.

10 11 12 13 14 15 "Merquat 100" 5.0 - 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.25 ____

Sodium hydroxide 0.15

Phosphoric acid 0.2 0.46 _ v "Deriphat 170C" 2 2.0 ..........

"Miranol C2MSF" - 2.56_? 10 Sorbic Acid .0.1 0.10_ "Dowicil 200" 0.10 0.10_ ^

Carbitol 3.00 ^

Scent 0.40 "Chemadene NA-30" 3 2.0 2.0 2.0 ......

15 "Merquat 550" 4 - - 12.5 ......

"Onamer M" 5 - 5.0 ........

"Lonzaine 12C" 6 - - - 2.0 "Lonzaine 14" ^ - - - - 2.0 "Lonzaine 16S" 8 ........ - 2.0 20 Water up to 100 % ^ pH 4,5> 2 CTFA name lauramopropionic acid 3 CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine 25 4 CTFA name quaternium-41 5 Poly (dimethylbutyl ammonium chloride) a, (d-bis (triethanol ammonium chloride) 6 CTFA name cocobetaine 7 CTFA name lauryl betaine 30 8 CTFA name cetyl betaine

Conditioning formulations of the invention are not only effective in improving the hair and wet condition of hair, imparting it to tenderness, softness, etc., but unlike conventional products, their conditioning effects are stable to repeated hair washing. This conditioning durability is illustrated in the subsequent experiment in which dyed hair was used as the test substrate.

Hair bundles of intact European hair were stained with Preparation A below

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15 for 20 minutes according to the method instructions. The ratio of the amount of solution to the weight of the hair, the temperature and the amount of water used for rinsing after treatment were all kept to simulate the conditions of the head. After rinsing, a conventional hair conditioner was performed, the conditioner component being stearelconium chloride (CTFA designation), and another similarly treated hair bundle to the conditioning material of Example 1, and a similarly treated hair bundle to 1 the composition of Example 5 (0.1 g of each product per 1 g of 10 hair). Both were incorporated for 30 seconds and allowed to stay on the hair for another 1 minute, after which the hair was rinsed and frizzed. The haircut measurements were performed according to the procedure described in the article by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmt. Chem. 27, 379-398, 1976). The test essentially involves passing a hair curl through a comb attached 15 to a strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording device. To carry out this passage of the hairline through the comb, a work is performed and this work, read on the integrator, is the objective measure of hairdressing ease / difficulty.

After the hair styling properties after dyeing and conditioning,

After treatment was determined, the scalp was washed with "HERBAL ESSEN-TM

CE shampoo three or more times and re-examined for hairstyling properties. The hair washing method included applying the shampoo (0.1 g per 1 g of hair), incorporating the shampoo into the hair over 60 seconds to produce a full lather and rinsing the hair. the washed hair for at least 1 minute. Each wash consisted of two soak / rinse sequences.

The results of the friability tests are summarized in Table I below. In this table, "hairdressing" is expressed in work units (save). The higher the values, the harder it was to style the hair.

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16

Preparation A

Ingredients Weight percent based on total weight of the preparation 5 p-phenylenediamine 0.35 N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-0.17 phenylenediamine sulphate

Resorcinol 0.31 1-Naphthol 0.08 10 Oleic Acid 7.50

Propylene glycol 4.40

Isopropanol 4.35

Hydrogen Peroxide 3.00

Octoxynol-1 3.50 Sulfated castor oil 1.50

Ammonium hydroxide 1.15

Cocamide DEA 0.75

Scented 0.15

Sodium sulphite 0.05 EDTA 0.01

Water up to 100.00 pH 9.8 ★ CTFA name (see CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 2nd Edition, 25 1977)

Table I

17 υΚΊΰΰ3ΰΰΙ5

Treatment with Average free work _ (save) on wet hair 5 No washing +3 washing- +4 washing- +5 washing- +6 washing_news Nine Nine Nine Nine Nine (A) After dyeing 2,800 10 (A) + Conventional Conditioner 625 7,350 (A) + Conditioner of Example 1 346 769 (A) + Conditioner of 20 Example 5 228 349 438 531 (A) + Conditioner of Example 7,580 641 809 916 25

The last two results in Table I have been further confirmed by experiments on live heads.

It should be noted that the betaine itself does not effect any conditioning when applied in a formulation in combination with the cationic polymer, e.g. "MERQUAT 100" or "ONAMER M". It is only when other amphoteric agents, such as those described above, are also present in the formulation that further conditioning is obtained using the betaine.

The following methods illustrate the use of the conditioner of the invention after a hair bleaching treatment. It has been found that treating bleached hair with the present compositions also improves hair grip and frizziness.

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18

Two 3 gram hair bundles of brown European hair were bleached for 1 hour at 30 ° C with 20 g of the following bleach preparation.

Preparation B

5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation

Potassium persulfate 11.0

Ammonium persulfate 6.0

Sodium Stearate 3.5 Sodium Metasilate 3.5

Hydrogen Peroxide 3.5 "Cab-O-Sil" 2.5 EDTA 0.5

Methocel® 0.8 15 Water up to 100.0 pH 10.3

After bleaching, the hair was rinsed thoroughly and one of the bleached lids was treated for 3 minutes with 1.5 g of the following preparation:

Example 16

Ingredients Weight Percent "Merquat 100" 2.0 25 "Deriphat 170C" 2.4

Benzyl Alcohol 3.5

Phosphoric acid (85%) 1.1

Water up to 100.00 * 1 aurami nopropy acid 1

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19

The other hair locks are subjected to the same conventional hair conditioner for the same period of time as above. Both lures were rinsed carefully and felt soft and silky and easy to freeze. Both lids were then washed once and compared again. This time, the conventionally conditioned lid felt sticky, rubbery and difficult to freeze, while the lid, which had been treated with the conditioning preparation set forth in Example 16, retained its soft grip and freezing ease. These conditioning attributes still strongly applied to this locomotive after as many washings as four.

10

Together! Igningsforsøq

Three conditioning formulations containing different cationic polymers were prepared. The composition of the formulations was as listed in Table 1 below. Formulation 3 represents a composition of the invention, while Formulation 1 contains a cationic polymer disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,080,310, and Formulation 2 contains another cationic polymer of similar structure.

Table 1 20

Ingredient (% by weight) Formulation 1 Formulation 2 Formulation 3

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2,250 2,250 2,250

Sodium Hydroxide 0.015 0.015 0.015 Cocoamphocarboxypropionate 2,560 2,560 2,560

Cocamidopropyl betaine 2,000 2,000 2,000

Phosphoric acid 0.460 0.460 0.460

Merquat 100 * 0.000 0.000 5.000

Subset 101 ** 20,000 0.000 0.000 30 Carteretin-F4 *** 0.000 6.670 0.000

Di ethylene glycol monoethyl ether 3,000 3,000 3,000

Sorbic acid 0.100 0.100 0.100

Quaternium-15 0.100 0.100 0.100

Fragrance 0.400 0.400 0.400 35 D.I. water 69,115 82,445 84,115

Final pH 4,400 4,400 4,400

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20 * Delivered as 40% aqueous solution ** Delivered as 10% aqueous solution *** Delivered as 30% aqueous solution 5 All three formulations were clear, slightly viscous liquids.

Eight scrubs, each 2 g and made of brown hair (provided by DeMeo Bros. Inc., NY, USA), were stained with Nice 'N Easy Blue Black (# 124) for 20 minutes. After dyeing, the scalp was thoroughly rinsed and treated in pairs with 1 g of the conditioning formulations listed in Table 1. The conditioning formulations were worked up into a rich foam and left on the hair for 2 minutes. After this period, the scalp was rinsed thoroughly and assessed for conditioning. Two of the eight hair bundles were not treated with any conditioner. The assessed conditioning aspects were the grip of the hair and its friability in wet condition. Each set was assessed by 3 persons trained in such studies. They rated the scalp on a scale of 1 to 5, with 1 representing complete lack of conditioning and poor grip, and 5 representing excellent conditioning and a soft grip. After the initial assessment, all the scrubs were washed 3 times with Condition® 20 Shampoo for Color-Treated Hair and rinsed, and the assessment was repeated. The results of these assessments are listed in Table 2.

Table 2 25 Conditioning assessment

After treatment After treatment and 3 times hair washing

Treatment of Colored Hair Bundle Grip Hairdressing Grab Hairdressing 30 _

Control samples 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Treated with Formulation 1 1.3 1.7 1.0 .1 »°

Treated with formulation 2 1.7 1.0 1.3 1.3

Treated with Formulation 3 4.7 4.7 4.7 4.7 35 (according to the invention)

It is clearly seen that the formulation according to the invention was not merely

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21 the best conditioning formulation, but also the only one that provided a condition that was resistant to hair washing.

All three formulations had α values within the range of claim 1 wherein a is defined as the ratio 5 [polymer (s)] 0 = ---------------- [detergent (mol)] In all three cases, the amphoteric detergents and their concentrations were the same. The total molar concentration thereof was 1.19 x 10 mol. Although the weight percent of the cationic polymers was the same, their "mer" concentration was different. Thus, for the Merquat 100, the mer concentration was 2: 161 = 1.2 x 10, calculated from an applied amount of the polymer of 2 g and a molecular weight of the polymer repeat unit (s) of 161.

_3

For Carteretin-F4, the mer concentration was 2: 312 = 6.4 x 10, and 3 for Delsette 101, the mer concentration was 2: 271 = 7.38 x 10.

Thus, the α-values for the formulations with Merquat 100, Carteretin-F4 and Subset 101 are, respectively. 1.01, 0.537 and 0.62.

Subset 101 is a cationic polymer disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,080,310 in column 2, line 13, and in Example 1.

Carteretin-F4 is an adipic acid / diethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylene triamine copolymer made by Sandoz.

Subset 101 and Carteretin-F4 have the structure: 0 0 Γ II II Ί ——C (CH,) 4C-NH- (CH2) 2N- (CH2) 2NH— I - 30 x wherein X is -CH2CH (OH) CHgN (CH2) £ for Carteretin-F4 and -CHg-CH CHg for Subset 101. 0

Claims (16)

A composition for conditioning hair pre-treated with an alkaline agent which leaves the hair with alkaline pH, characterized in that it, based on the total weight of the composition, contains: (a) from ca. 0.4 to approx. 10% of at least one cationic polymer selected from: (i) homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride having a molecular weight in the range of about 4,000 to approx. 550,000, 10 (ii) poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -α, ω-bis (triethanol - ammonium chloride) having a molecular weight in the range of about 800 to approx. 5,000, and (ii i) polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylpyridine described by the general formula 15. i _— CH, - CH · - CH 2 "CH Λ. O is O x N * X ~ 20 r -J where n is a number depending on the molecular weight, R is a C 12 O 4 ra dical, and X 'is a cosmetically acceptable anion, which polymers (iii) have a molecular weight in the range of from 5,000 to approx. 100,000, (b) from ca. 0.2 to approx. 20% of an amphoteric surfactant, r and (c) acid in an amount sufficient to give the composition a pH in the range of from 1 to approx. 6, and 30 (d) an aqueous carrier, the ratio [polymer (mer)] α = -------------- [detergent (mol)] wherein polymer (mer) denotes the number of moles of the repeat units in the polymer carrying a positive charge, and the detergent (moles) denotes the number of moles of detergent, has a value in the range of from approx. 0.2 to approx. 5th 2. A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that α is in the range of 5 from ca. 1 to approx. 2nd 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains as an additional component from ca. 1.0 to approx. 5% of at least one betaine of the formula 10 CH ~ r 4. A composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the betaine is at least one of the following: cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, oleyl betaine, cetyl betaine and coconut betaine. 5. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a homopolymer of dimethyl di allyl ammon in umchoride. 25 6. A composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a homo- or copolymer of a quaternized polyvinylpyridine having monomeric units of the formula: 1 - * n ^ n ri CH - CH-- - CH2 - CH or. x N x "35 * DK 165388 B wherein R and X" have the meaning previously defined. A composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the anion is a halide, sulfate or carboxyl. 5 8. A composition according to any one of claims 1-4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -a, G) bis (triethanolammonium chloride). A composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that the amphoteric detergent has the formula CH 2 CO 2: a A composition according to claim 9, characterized in that R 2 is a coconut fat radical. A composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that the amphoteric detergent has the formula: 30 R3-NH-CH2CH2-C00H wherein R3 is a long chain fatty alkyl radical having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. A composition according to any one of claims 1-11, characterized in that it additionally contains aliphatic monohydroxy or polyhydroxy alcohol solvent of between 1 and approx. 6 carbon atoms. DK 165388B 13. A method of conditioning hair, characterized in that it brings into contact with a composition as defined in any one of claims 1-12 for a period of time sufficient to improve its hair-cutting properties and / or its completeness and / or its softness. A method according to claim 13 for conditioning hair previously subjected to a treatment with an alkaline pH, characterized in that it comprises contacting the pretreated hair with a composition as defined in any one of the following claims. any of claims 1-12 for a period sufficient to improve its hairstyle properties and / or its completeness and / or its softness. A process according to claim 14, characterized in that the pH of the pre-used treating agent is in the range of approx. 7 to approx. 12th R2- C - N * -CH ^ CH AND ^ COCf 1! · H \ CK 20 2 wherein R 2 is a long chain fat radical of 10 to 18 carbon atoms. CH 3 wherein R1 represents a long chain aliphatic C A process according to claim 14, characterized in that the pH of the pre-used treating agent is in the range of from approx. 8 to approx. 11. 20 25 1