DE10239712A1 - Shaving and cosmetic formulations are based on microemulsion containing primary surfactant, cosurfactant, oil phase, glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate and optionally water/oil emulsifier and/or salt - Google Patents

Abstract

Shaving formulation based on microemulsion containing oil comprises (a) a primary surfactant, (b) cosurfactant(s), (c) optionally W/O (water/oil) emulsifier(s), (d) liquid and/or solid oil phase(s), (e) 0-4 wt.% salt, (f) glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate (I) and (g) optionally other thickener(s). Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) preparation of these microemulsions by combining the constituents using a variable primary/cosurfactant ratio at constant total amount of surfactants; (2) preparation of transparent microemulsions by combination (wt.%) of 15% total surfactants, 0.001-2.5% W/O emulsifier(s), 1-15% oil phase(s), 0.01-5% (I) and optionally thickener(s) and adding 0-4% salt, in which the primary/cosurfactant ratio can be varied.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations based on oil-containing microemulsions and the process for their manufacture. The preparations are aesthetic and can especially used as shaving products. The products can be of low viscosity or be gel-like, do not foam at all or lightly and / or are set to be transparent become.

For the cosmetic treatment of the skin and the hair counts also cleaning them. Cleaning means both removal undesirable Dirt, elimination of all kinds of germs as well as psychological increase and physical wellbeing. For cleaning comes primarily from surfactant-containing preparations in question.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. They are caused by their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, for a reduction the surface tension of water, wetting the skin, facilitating dirt removal and solution, a gentle rinse and ever as desired - for foam regulation.

• – anionische Tenside,
• – kationische Tenside,
• – amphotere Tenside und
• – nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:

Are typical for non-ionic surfactants Polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants form in an aqueous medium no ions.

Common Forms of cosmetic or dermatological preparations and cleaning products are finely dispersed multiphase systems, in which one or more fat or oil phases in addition to one or more There are water phases. Of these systems are the real ones Emulsions the most common.

In simple emulsions there are finely dispersed droplets of the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions) enclosed in an emulsifier shell. The droplet diameters of the usual emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such "macroemulsions", without further coloring additives, are milky white and opaque. Finer "macroemulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 4 × 10 ⁻¹ μm to approx. 1 μm, are, in turn without coloring additives, bluish white colored and opaque.

Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters smaller than approx. 10 ^–2 μm are reserved to appear clear and transparent.

The droplet diameter of transparent or translucent microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from approximately 10 ⁻² μm to approximately 4 × 10 ⁻¹ μm. Such microemulsions are usually of low viscosity. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be more finely dispersed in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that, owing to their low are sprayable against viscosity.

A disadvantage of the microemulsions The state of the art is that there is always a high content of one or several emulsifiers must be used because the small droplet size high interface between the phases, which are generally stabilized by emulsifiers must become.

In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers harmless. Nevertheless, emulsifiers, like ultimately any chemical substance, in individual cases allergic or hypersensitive to the Cause user-based reactions.

Microemulsions based on anionic surfactants are known. In EP 0529883 Preparations are described which contain a cationic deposition polymer in addition to lauryl ether sulfate and betaine. It is disadvantageous that on the one hand only silicone oils can be used and on the other hand the proportion of the oil is only 1% by weight in contrast to 18% by weight of surfactants. The emulsification of more oil components while maintaining transparency has not been achieved.

Transparent systems are obtained when water is no longer used in O / W microemulsions. However, these systems should not be seen as O / W microemulsions, but as pure oil bases, oil baths, as in DE 19712678 described.

Difficult to deploy of microemulsions with anionic, cationic or amphoteric Surfactants is also that the oil components are very difficult are to be used because the surfactants are often too water-soluble and therefore have hardly any emulsifying properties. Also included the surfactants mostly salts, which have a great influence on the emulsifying power. Further must Common surfactant blends only with acids like citric acid to be adjusted to pH values between 5 and 7, which also to a change the interface properties leads and so often the incorporation of oil components difficult while maintaining transparency. The state of the art there is no manufacturing specification that is more oily and yet more transparent Microemulsions that are mild to the skin as cleaning products.

In DE 3534733 microemulsions are described, but the proportion of solubilized oil components is low in the range from 0.5 to 3% by weight. The problem of incorporating larger amounts of oil is also clear in WO 9948473, here the incorporation of only 0.5-1% by weight of oil is mentioned.

WO 0047166 describes microemulsions based on MIPA laureth sulfate. As a cosurfactant in the examples Laureth-9, Myreth-9, sodium laureth-10-carboxylic acid, ethoxylated castor oil and cocamidopropyl betaine. The examples show that the relationship of surfactants to solubilized oil is very large. This disadvantage of the surfactant mixture allows a maximum of 5% by weight of oil to be solubilized. On another problem that when combining cationic substances with anionic surfactants it often too a precipitation the corresponding surfactant mixture due to the electrostatic Attraction of both substances leads is not mentioned in WO 0047166.

In EP 668754 describes transparent preparations which contain anionic surfactants, 3-15% by weight of oil, a polar, nonionic emulsifier (HLB 5-10) and 1-5% by weight of an ethoxylated monoglyceride ether. It is disadvantageous that only lauryl ether sulfate can be used, the formulas cannot be adjusted to be as low-viscosity as water and a special polar emulsifier (Rewoderm LIS 75) is required.

In DE 4411557 microemulsions are described which contain 8% by weight of oil. In addition to lauryl ether sulfate, only low ethoxylated W / O emulsifiers (ceteth-5, oleth-5) are used as surfactants. It is disadvantageous that the mixtures foam little and contain no conditioning agents. It is also known that foams that consist only of the anionic surfactant lauryl ether sulfate produce a flash foam, but this quickly becomes unstable. The stability can be achieved by cosurfactants such as betaine, glutamate, sarcosinate or amphoacetate, which however in DE 4411557 is not considered advantageous. The surfactant systems typically used for rinse-off products are also not described.

In DE 19755488 Microemulsions are described that contain either very little water or a lot of water. In the latter case, however, the microemulsions are characterized by a very high polyol content of 12-30% by weight. The oil phase mentioned consists of glyceryl oleate or cetyl alcohol, so that in the cosmetic sense it is rather a matter of W / O emulsifiers and consistency enhancers. Strictly speaking, the microemulsion described consists of anionic surfactants such as lauryl ether sulfate, cocoglyceride and the W / O emulsifiers mentioned. Only cetyl laurate (hexyldecanol laurate) with a proportion of 2.2% by weight can be regarded as a real oil component. Solubilizing larger amounts of oil is obviously difficult here, too, since a total of 33.2% by weight of surfactants and W / O emulsifiers are required to clearly disperse about 2% by weight of oil. Another disadvantage is the high content of hexanediol of 12% by weight and short-chain glycerol esters such as glyceryl caprylate of 12-15% by weight, since these substances are irritating to the skin in the concentrations listed.

An important point to note when developing cosmetic preparations is their skin tolerance. In the case of the microemulsions described above, there is no information about their skin compatibility in comparison to corresponding oil-free surfactant mixtures or oil-containing emulsi products made with anionic surfactants. The choice of surfactants and the sometimes very high concentration of the surfactants seems to be responsible for this.

Object of the present invention it is ready cosmetic preparations based on oil-containing emulsions to ask who listed Disadvantages of the known products do not have. Another job the present invention is to enrich the prior art and cosmetics and their manufacturing processes places that have a relatively high oil content and yet aesthetic and especially skin-friendly are.

Another disadvantage of the state of the Technology is that when using conventional shaving products Due to the white foam that forms, the user shapes the contours of his Face can not recognize. This often happens Micro injuries in difficult areas such as chin or above the lips.

Another task of the present Invention, therefore, it is oily To provide shaving products that are pleasant on the senses Skin can be applied, distributed and washed off, whereby the skin-care oil phase z.T. remains on the skin.

Furthermore, it is the task To provide shaving products that are similar to the user enable dry shaving, to recognize the areas to be shaved.

The tasks listed are solved by a process for producing cosmetic preparations Basis of microemulsions and the preparations so produced according to the main claims. object of subclaims are advantageous embodiments of the preparations according to the invention. Of the invention further comprises the use of such preparations.

• a) ein Primärtensid,
• b) ein oder mehrere Cotenside,
• c) gegebenenfalls ein oder mehrere W/O-Emulgatoren,
• d) eine oder mehrere flüssige und/oder feste Ölphasen,
• e) 0 bis 4 Gew.% Salz und
• f) Glycerinpolyglycoletherisostearate sowie
• g) gegebenenfalls einen oder mehrere weitere Verdicker,

die gestellten Aufgaben löst.It was surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic preparations based on oil-containing microemulsions, which can be used in particular as shaving products, include

• a) a primary surfactant,
• b) one or more cosurfactants,
• c) optionally one or more W / O emulsifiers,
• d) one or more liquid and / or solid oil phases,
• e) 0 to 4% by weight of salt and
• f) glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate and
• g) optionally one or more further thickeners,

accomplishes the tasks.

• – die Zubereitung kann besser verdickt werden
• – die Konsistenz der Zubereitung kann nach Belieben eingestellt werden
• – insbesondere die Konsistenz eines Rasiergels kann deutlich dahingehend verbessert werden, so dass beim Auftragen auf die Haut ein gleichmäßiger Film gebildet wird, der das optimale Gleiten der Rasierklinge ermöglicht
• – die Produktstabilität wird deutlich verbessert
• – das Barthaar wird optimal auf die Rasur vorbereitet

The use of glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate (OXETAL VD 92; Inci: PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate + Laureth-2) surprisingly results in the following advantages over known products, in particular for cosmetic shaving products.

• - The preparation can be thickened better
• - The consistency of the preparation can be adjusted as desired
• - In particular, the consistency of a shaving gel can be significantly improved, so that a uniform film is formed when applied to the skin, which enables the razor blade to slide optimally
• - Product stability is significantly improved
• - The whisker is optimally prepared for shaving

By continuing to use coconut fatty acid diethanolamide (e.g. Cocamide DEA), fatty acid amidoalkyl betaine, Cellulose derivatives and / or polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ethers (e.g. Laureth-4) can be advantageous Properties can be further increased.

The manufacturing method according to the invention of these preparations based on oil Microemulsions enabled by combining the preparation components at constant Total amount of surfactant the primary / cosurfactant ratio is variable can be adjusted.

This makes it transparent, for example Emulsions obtained that have the disadvantages of the prior art remedy.

When solving the problems, the multifactorial dependency in the production of oily and, under certain circumstances, foaming microemulsions must be taken into account. The factors, the type of oil phase used, the amount of oil, the pH value, the salt content and the primary / cosurfactant ratio influence the transparency of the microemulsion. The factors of pH, salt content, the amount of thickener, the W / O emulsifiers and the primary / cosurfactant ratio in turn influence the viscosity of the micro emulsion. Nevertheless, surprisingly, with a constant total surfactant content, a microemulsion results with a variable primary / cosurfactant ratio.

It has proven to be beneficial that the primary surfactant, for example lauryl sulfate or lauryl sulfate, and the cosurfactant, for example betaines, amphoacetate, glutamate or sarcosinate same total surfactant content of e.g. 15% by weight can be changed can, that microemulsions continue to result. Variable primary / cosurfactant conditions from 14: 1, 13: 2, 11: 4, 9: 6 etc. and it will be in microemulsions in any case.

Recipes that have such flexibility regarding the Have surfactant choice are advantageous because the foaming power as also tolerance depend heavily on the respective recipe.

These relationships are true for oil-free Mixtures of surfactants have been known but in the oil-containing compositions not yet figured out Service. Because microemulsions are extraordinary are sensitive to such variations because of the interface properties then change a lot, is an existing shortcoming by the present invention that revealed in the microemulsions described above, fixed Service.

The foam formation is then advantageous because the consumer associates cleaning performance with it. In general, oil-free formulations foam especially good if the surfactant / cosurfactant content or the surfactant ratio is appropriate chosen are. An advantage of recipes according to the invention is that they are also in the presence of oil foam.

In the preparations according to the invention one continues to vary the relative surfactant proportions to one another not on a specific oil component established. So that can active ingredients of different hydrophilicity / lipophilicity easier be used because the oil phase flexibly chosen can be. Can also when using larger concentrations of oils and lipids, which adhere better to the skin or hair, so that such products have greater care potential. The use of larger concentrations on oil phases allows also the attachment of lipophilic, hydrophilic or more surface-active Active ingredients because of the remaining lipid film on the skin showering, bathing, cleaning the face, washing hands, when removing makeup or after shaving, washability of these substances compared to microemulsions with a small oil phase or compared to oil-free Mixture of surfactants is difficult.

The use of larger concentrations of oil components with a protective Lipid film is advantageous because the adhesion of surfactants after a Rinse-off process is often problematic. This attachment can occur with frequent use products containing surfactants lead to intolerance to contact dermatitis. This A disadvantage occurs with preparations according to the invention not because lipid deposition occurs on the skin.

Another advantage of the microemulsions according to the invention is to use low viscosity microemulsions with the previously described Advantages as well as formulating microemulsion gels. For example can for a bath additive a low-viscosity microemulsion can be advantageous, while for a Shower product a gel-like consistency is cheaper since the product in the distribution in the palm of your hand then in larger quantities is present.

Amazing and particularly beneficial is that oil-containing according to the invention Recipes are much milder than oil-free compositions. Although a general theory for this is missing, it is assumed that the surfactants preferentially bind to the nanodroplets, so the free monomer content is very low. The free monomer content is with for corresponding intolerance reactions of the well-known cleaning products. When using the microemulsion according to the invention a lipid film forms, which is more protective compared to low-oil compositions or compared to oil-free Recipes. Therefore, the microemulsions are lipid-replenishing, so that more frequent ones Applications to a lesser extent or not at all for detachment the stratum corneum lipids, proteins or natural moisturizing factors leads. This effect is surprising only for the oil-containing according to the invention To observe microemulsions.

For the use as a cleaning product is associated with another Significant advantage as a pleasant, noticeable lipid film after use remains on the skin of the low-lipid or lipid-free formulations naturally missing. This is for interesting to those consumers who look after showering for example not afterwards apply cream and do not have to apply any other care products after shaving.

It was also astonishing that the Incorporation of lipid-soluble or amphiphilic agents can be done more easily in comparison to formulations with a low oil phase or compared to oil-free Tensidabmischungen. Can also At the same time or alone, hydrophilic active substances are also advantageous be used.

The adherence of the active ingredients the skin / hair is relieved after a rinse-off process.

The addition of a lipophilic co-emulsifier such as glycerol ester, propylene glycol ester, sorbitan ester low ethoyl. Glycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides are advantageous, since this can lower the interfacial tension more. The lack of suitable co-emulsifiers in known preparations is explained by the fact that frequently only unstable formulations in the presence of the surfactants result in the presence of oil or that only simple emulsions can be obtained. This disadvantage is also one encountered according to the invention.

The influence of salinity will insufficiently appreciated in prior art microemulsions. This although the salinity with for the successful production of cosmetic preparations is. The surfactants often contain due to the manufacturing process salts. Often, oil-free Market formulations based on surfactants through the additional use of table salt the viscosity changed from low-viscosity to gel-like. This high salinity can complicate the successful production of microemulsions. The preparations according to the invention advantageously allow the additional salt content added between 0 and 4% by weight, provided the surfactants are not salt-free are. For Microemulsions made from salt-free surfactants should, should the salt content between 0 and 4% by weight plus the salt content, which is present in the saline surfactants.

Furthermore, in the microemulsions of the prior art is not aimed at how important the pH for the There is transparency of the mixtures. For example, it is advantageous adjust the pH to 5.5 with citric acid or other acids. The addition of acids changed however, the interface properties of surfactants, so that a microemulsion with pH 8 by the addition of acid at pH 5.5 white or can become unstable. In microemulsions or microemulsion gels according to the invention it succeeds through the relative ratios of surfactants / cosurfactants and W / O emulsifiers or by varying the salinity regardless of pH in any case to get microemulsions, what in recipes of the prior art not possible is.

It was also astonishing that, for example in addition to laury ether sulfate or lauryl sulfate as exemplary primary surfactants a variety of milder cosurfactants can be used. Advantageous can the surfactants selected become from:

A. anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Dinatriumacylglutamat, Natriumacylglutamat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium-Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen, N-Cocoyl hydrolysiertes Weizenprotein, N-Cocoyl hydrolysierte Aminosäuren
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyllactylate, beispielsweise Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate
• 7. Arginate, beispielsweise N-Lauroyl Arginat
• 8. Valinate, beispielsweise N-Lauroyl Valinat
• 9. Prolinate, beispielsweise N-Lauroyl Prolinat
• 10. Glycinat, beispielsweise N-Lauroyl Glycinat, Cocoamphopolycarboxyglycinat
• 11. Aspartate, beispielsweise N-Lauroyl Aspartate, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat
• 12. Propionate, beispielsweise Natrium Cocoamphopropionat

Acylamino acids and their salts, such as

• 1. acyl glutamates, for example disodium acyl glutamate, sodium acyl glutamate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. Acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen, N-cocoyl-hydrolyzed wheat protein, N-cocoyl-hydrolyzed amino acids
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylates, for example lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. Alaninate
• 7. Arginates, for example N-lauroyl arginate
• 8. Valinates, for example N-lauroyl valinate
• 9. Prolinates, for example N-lauroyl prolinate
• 10. Glycinate, for example N-lauroyl glycinate, cocoamphopolycarboxyglycinate
• 11. Aspartates, for example N-lauroyl aspartate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate
• 12. Propionates, for example sodium cocoamphopropionate

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6-Citrat und Natrium PEG-4-Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-l3-Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6-Cocamide Carboxylat,
• 4. Natrium PEG-7 Olivenöl Carboxylat

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
• 4. Sodium PEG-7 olive oil carboxylate

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12–14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-,Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12–13-Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-,Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.
• 3. Natriumalkylsulfate wie Natriumcetearylsulfat

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate, sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. Acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.
• 3. Sodium alkyl sulfates such as sodium cetearyl sulfate

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least an N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from the pH value to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can also be used are preferably chosen in the sense of the present invention from the group of quaternaries Ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkylethoxylatedimethylammonium chlorides or bromides such as di (C14-C18) alkyl (EO) 3-20 dimethylammonium salts or distearyl (EO) 5 dimethyl ammonium chloride and distearyl (EO) 15 dimethyl ammonium chloride.

alkyl amide, Alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as Amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The total surfactant content made of primary surfactant and cosurfactant is in the range of 1 to 30% by weight. The total surfactant content is preferably 25% by weight and the primary / cosurfactant ratio can can be set variably in the range 14: 1 to 1:14.

The droplets of the discontinuous oil phase can pass through one or more crosslinking substances, so-called thickeners, with one another connected, the network structure is characterized by at least a hydrophilic area which has an extent, which is suitable for the distance between the microemulsion droplets to bridge, and through at least one hydrophobic area which is in contact with the microemulsion droplets hydrophobic interaction is able to occur.

In WO 9628132 the backbone is a water-soluble or shown in water-dispersible thickener, the Branching points covalently attached to the polymer hydrophobic Groups are displayed. The hydrophobic residues can store together by hydrophobic interaction. At the networking points can microemulsion droplets also attach through hydrophobic interactions. It is there for well in principle irrelevant whether the hydrophobic residues "immerse" or whether the hydrophobic Remains only superficially with the microemulsion droplets come into contact and stick to it more or less strongly.

It is equally advantageous if the crosslinker substance, within the scope of the present description also known as a thickener, forms an independent gel network, in which the microemulsion droplets then held in place by hydrophobic interaction (then lie so-called associative thickeners before), or whether the cohesion of the network through the crosslinking with the microemulsion droplets in the nodes of the network is effected.

The crosslinker used in the invention is Glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate, also as OXETAL VD 92; Inci: PEG-90 glyceryl isostearate + Laureth-2, known. Furthermore can other known crosslinkers are used.

• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine Zahl größer als 100 darstellen,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine Zahl größer als 100 darstellen,
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine Zahl größer als 100 darstellen, der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine Zahl größer als 100 darstellen, der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine Zahl größer als 100 darstellen, der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste darstellen, wobei X und Y nicht identisch sind und jeweils entweder eine Oxyethylengruppe oder eine Oxypropylengruppe und n und m unabhängig voneinander Zahlen darstellen, deren Summe größer als 100 ist
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste darstellen, wobei X und Y nicht identisch sind und jeweils entweder eine Oxyethylengruppe oder eine Oxypropylengruppe und n und m unabhängig voneinander Zahlen darstellen, deren Summe größer als 100 ist

Those selected from the group have proven to be particularly suitable crosslinkers

• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100,
• - The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is a number greater than 100 represent
• - The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n represents a number greater than 100, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or Alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, of the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n represent a number greater than 100, the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or Represent alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group ppe and n and m independently represent numbers whose sum is greater than 100
• - The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either Oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers, the sum of which is greater than 100

The PEG-150 distearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-800 Chol ₂ and the PEG-150 dioleate are particularly advantageous. The PEG-300-pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, the PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, the PEG-160 sorbitan trisostearate, the PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate and the PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate can also be used advantageously as thickeners. PEG-200 glyceryl palmitate is also suitable. The thickener from Südchemie with the designation Purethix 1442 (polyether-1) is also advantageous. It is also possible to use polyurethane thickeners, such as Rheolate 204, 205, 208 (Rheox company) or cosmetic variants modified therefrom or DW 1206B from Rhom & Haas or Serad Fx 1010, 1035 from Hüls.

It is also advantageous to use mixtures of the polymers described above, for example from PEG 800 distearate and PEG-800 Chol ₂ .

Celluloses are also, for example particularly beneficial hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose (HPMC), which is not are to be understood as crosslinkers. You can also Combinations of HPMC and the previously described crosslinkers are used become.

A slightly modified option the formation of microemulsion gels according to the invention is to get the oil droplets through the use of hydrophobically modified, synthetic or natural Immobilize polymers. Such polymers are uncommon also known as associative thickener.

Accordingly, it is also advantageous, particularly if the thickener (s) is chosen should be from the group of associative thickeners, hydrophobic to choose substituted polysaccharide derivatives, for example hydrophobic substituted cellulose ethers, hydrophobically substituted starches, alginates, Glucans, chitins, dextrans, caseinates, pectins, proteins and gums, also polyurethanes, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, polyacrylates, water-soluble Silicone polymers and the like.

For example, cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose to use. Furthermore, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose is also very good preferred to use. To improve the foam structure, foam quality and amount of foam Polyethylene glycols with long PEG units are also special preferred, for example PEG-14 M, PEG-45 M from Amerchol.

• 1. Quaternäre Derivate von Celluloseethern Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium 24
• 2. Quaternäre Derivate von Gummen Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorid und Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar
• 3. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Dimethyl diallyammonium Chloride (DMDAAC) Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 4 und 6 und 7
• 4. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chlorid (MAPTAC) Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 28 und Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorid
• 5. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chlorid (APTAC)
• 6. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Methacryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium chlorid (METAC) Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 32 und Polyquaternium 37
• 7. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Acryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium chlorid (AETAC) Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 33
• 8. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Methacryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium methyl sulfat (METAMS) Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Polyquaternium 5 und Polyquaternium 11 und Polyquaternium 14 und Polyquaternium 15 und Polyquaternium 36 und Polyquaternium 45
• 9. Homopolymere und Copolymere von Vinylpyrrolidon Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Luviquat 905
• 10. Kationische Polysaccharide basierend auf Hydroxyalkylcellulosen, Stärken, Hydroxyalkylstärken, Polymere basierend auf Arabinose Monomeren, Polymere abgeleitet von der Xylose, Fucose, Fructose, Galacturonsäure und Glucuronsäure, Galactosamin und Glucosamin, Acetylglucosamin, Galactose, Mannose. Bevorzugt sind beispielsweise Hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammoniumchlorid Derivate von Stärke, die von Korn, Kartoffel, Rice, Tapioaca, Weizen und dergleichen sein kann.
• 11. Ammonium substituierte Polydimethylsiloxane Bevorzugt sind beispielsweise Trimethylsilylamodimethicon (Dow Corning Q2-8220), Copolymere von Polydimethylsiloxan und Poly C2-C3 Alkylenether (Dow Corning 190, Dow Corning 2-5324, Dow Corning Q2-5220), Abil-Quat 3270
• 12. PVP
• 13. Polyethylenimine Bevorzugt ist beispielsweise Lupasol FG (BASF), Lupasol G-35 (BASF), Lupasol P (BASF)
• 14. Chitosan

Cationic polymers can also be added as thickeners. These improve the feeling on the skin and can advantageously influence the foaming behavior of the formulations according to the invention. The cationic polymers can be selected from:

• 1. Quaternary derivatives of cellulose ethers. For example, polyquaternium 10 and polyquaternium 24 are preferred
• 2. Quaternary derivatives of gums. For example, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and hydroxypropyltrimonium hydroxypropyl guar are preferred
• 3. Homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyl diallyammonium chloride (DMDAAC). For example, polyquaternium 4 and 6 and 7 is preferred
• 4. Homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC) For example, polyquaternium 28 and polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride are preferred
• 5. Homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (APTAC)
• 6. Homopolymers and copolymers of methacryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (METAC) For example, polyquaternium 32 and polyquaternium 37 are preferred
• 7. Homopolymers and copolymers of acryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride (AETAC). For example, polyquaternium 33 is preferred
• 8. Homopolymers and copolymers of methacryloyloxy ethyl trimethyl ammonium methyl sulfate (METAMS). For example, polyquaternium 5 and polyquaternium 11 and polyquaternium 14 and polyquaternium 15 and polyquaternium 36 and polyquaternium 45 are preferred
• 9. Homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone. Luviquat 905, for example, is preferred
• 10. Cationic polysaccharides based on hydroxyalkyl celluloses, starches, hydroxyalkyl starches, polymers based on arabinose monomers, polymers derived from xylose, fucose, fructose, galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid, galactosamine and glucosamine, acetylglucosamine, galactose, mannose. Preferred are, for example, hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride derivatives of starch, which can be from grain, potato, rice, tapioaca, wheat and the like.
• 11. Ammonium substituted polydimethylsiloxanes Preference is given, for example, to trimethylsilylamodimethicone (Dow Corning Q2-8220), copolymers of polydimethylsiloxane and poly C2-C3 alkylene ether (Dow Corning 190, Dow Corning 2-5324, Dow Corning Q2-5220), Abil-Quat 3270
• 12. PVP
• 13. Polyethyleneimines For example, Lupasol FG (BASF), Lupasol G-35 (BASF), Lupasol P (BASF)
• 14. Chitosan

It can also be advantageous if necessary be if the thickener or thickeners used according to the invention have physiological Efficacy in the sense of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical effect has or feature. So can for example, that in German Offenlegungsschrift 43 44 661 disclosed biosurfactant esters advantageous in the sense of the present Invention find use.

Furthermore, oils with different polarity, molecular weight and structure can be used. The oil component or the whole of the oil components the preparation according to the invention is preferred from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alko get a chain length of 1 to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms provided the oil component or all of the oil components a liquid at room temperature represent. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, Oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

For example, ester oils have become special to generate stronger foamy Proven preparations. Cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexylaurate, 2-ethylhexypalmitate, Decyl oleate, octyl isostearate, isotridecyl isononaoate or corresponding Esterölmischungen.

The oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, of silicone oils, Lanoline, the adipic acid ester, the butylene glycol diester, the dialkyl ether or carbonate, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol ester is more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, macadamia oil, evening primrose oil and the like more.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous as the one to be used according to the invention Silicone oil used. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

For example, are very advantageous Dicapylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, paraffin oil, coco caprylate / caprat, caprylic / capric Triglyceride, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, octyldodecanol. You can also very beneficial oil blends such as paraffin oil / dicaprylyether, paraffin oil / cococaprylate caprate are used.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under the trade name Hallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ).

For example, dialkyl ethers, Dialkyl carbonates, mineral oils to generate stronger foamy Proven preparations. Dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, Paraffin oil, hydrogenated polydecene, petroleum jelly or corresponding mixtures the lipids described above.

The oil components can be beneficial in a content of 1 to 50% by weight, based on the total preparation are present, about 1 to 40% by weight are preferred.

It was also amazing that very high concentrations of oils and lipids (1-15% by weight) with a total surfactant content of 15% by weight (active) and W / O emulsifier content from 0.0 to 10% by weight can be. Furthermore, the total surfactant content (less than 15% by weight) can also be lower without the microemulsion structure (e.g. transparency, if water-clear preparations are sought) is lost.

By using waxes (Ester waxes, triglyceride waxes, ethoxylated waxes, etc.) in the oil phase or as an oil phase let yourself further improve the adhesion of the substances.

It is preferred if the wax component or the entirety of the wax components is selected from the group of Esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms provided that the wax component or the whole the wax components represent a solid at room temperature, the natural Waxes, the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids, the ethoxylated waxes, triglyceride waxes, C16-C60 fatty acids and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols, the mineral oil waxes.

The wax components from the group of the C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates, the C _10-40 alkyl stearates, the C _20-40 alkyl isostearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, the C _20-40 dialkyl dimerates, the C _20-40 alkyl erucate can be selected, furthermore C _30-50 alkyl beeswax, cetyl palmitate, methyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate, octacosanyl stearate. Silicone waxes such as stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol may also be advantageous.

• 1. gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, verzweigten und/oder unverzweigten Mono- und/oder Dicarbonsäure mit 10 bis 50 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt 15 – 45 Kohlenstoffatomen und
• 2. Glycerin darstellen. Dabei können Mono-, Di- und Triglyceride vorteilhaft sein.

Also advantageous in the sense of the present invention are ester waxes, the esters of

• 1. saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acid having 10 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 15-45 carbon atoms and
• 2. Represent glycerin. Mono-, di- and triglycerides can be advantageous here.

The glycerides listed below are particularly advantageous:

The wax components are particularly preferred to choose from the group of triglyceride waxes such as C18-38 triglyceride or To choose Tribehenin.

It has also been found that ethoxylated waxes such as PEG-8 beeswax, PEG 6 Sorbitan beeswax, PEG-2 hydrogenated castoroil, PEG-12 carnauba wax are advantageous.

In particular, moisturizers such as glycerol, Chitosan, fucogel, lactic acid, Propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, Mannitol, sodium pyrolidone carboxylic acid, glycine, hyaluronic acid and their salts, urea, sodium and potassium salts more easily to the Skin tied. By using waxes (ester waxes, Triglyceride waxes, ethoxylated waxes etc.) in the oil phase or as an oil phase let yourself further improve the adhesion of the active ingredients and moisturizers.

The preparation according to the invention stands out characterized in that for the production of the microemulsions according to the invention or whose gels a variety of W / O emulsifiers can be used.

According to the invention, the W / O emulsifier or emulsifiers chosen are from the group of fatty alcohols with 8-30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, triglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24. especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24. especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, triglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24. especially 12-18 C atoms, polyglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8-24. especially 12-18 C atoms with up to 10 glycerol units, saturated propylene glycol ester and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, sorbitan esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, sorbitan esters of polyols, especially glycerol, Pentaerythritylester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, methyl glucose Ester more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, polyglycerol methyl glucose esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 8 - 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, cetyl dimethicone copolyols, alkyl methicone copolyols, Alkyl diemethicone ethoxy glucoside, glyceryl fatty acid citrate.

It can be advantageous according to the invention that the aforementioned types of W / O emulsifiers are additionally polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated, or that other polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated products are also used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated castor oil, ethoxylated cholesterol, ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as steareth-2, ethoxylated fatty acids, ethoxylated dicarboxylic acids, ethoxylated waxes such as PEG (-6, -8, -12, -20) beeswax, PEG (-6, -8, - 20 sorbitan beeswax ), ethoxylated carnauba waxes (PEG-12 carnauba waxes).

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Diglyceryldüsostearat, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol nozzle stearate, Sorbitan monoisostearate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, Selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), Glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, Glyceryl sorbitan stearate polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether, Triglycerindüsostearat, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate.

The emulsions according to the invention can contain further stabilizers. Preferred stabilizers are the PEG-45 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer and / or methoxy-PEG-22-dodecyl glycol copolymer. The stabilizer or the stabilizers are advantageously in concentrations of 0.01-25 % By weight, although it is possible and it is advantageous to keep the stabilizer content low, about up to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition. It is particularly advantageous to choose stabilizers if Preparations according to the invention should contain a high content of destabilizing substances. If the content of destabilizing substances is low, you can do without the stabilizer.

The W / O emulsifier used according to the invention or the WIO emulsifiers used according to the invention is or are advantageously in concentrations of 0.1-25% by weight before, although it is possible and it is advantageous to keep the content of emulsifiers low, about up to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition.

In addition, the microemulsions according to the invention can Contain dyes and / or pigments. Pigments can be used will make dyes if they are nanodiperged (10-100nm) the product, for example, blue transparent. The dyes and -pigments can from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants selected become. In most cases are you with those for Food-approved dyes identical. Pigments can be organic and be of inorganic origin, such as organic from Azo-type, indigoids, triphenylmethane-like, anthraquinones, and xanthine Dyes as D&C and FD&C blues, browns, greens, oranges, reds, yellows are known. inorganic Pigments consist of insoluble ones Salting certified dyes as lakes or iron oxides be designated. For example, barium lakes, calcium lakes, aluminum lakes, titanium dioxide, mica and iron oxides use Find. Examples of A1 salts are Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake, Blue 1 Aluminum Lake and combinations used.

As iron oxides or hydrated oxides are e.g. cosmetic yellow oxide C22-8073 (Sunchemical) cosmetic oxide MC 33-120 (Sunchemical), cosmetic brown oxide C33-115 (Nordmann & Rassmann), cosmetic russet oxide C33-8075 (Sunchemical) known and possibly advantageous. Ultramarine blue (Les colorants Wacker) can be used as aluminosilicate.

Pearlescent pigments can also be used in the emulsions according to the invention incorporated. These are, for example, from the Costenoble company (Cloisonne type, Flamenco type, Low Luster type), Merck (Colorona types, Microna type, Timiron type, Colorona, Ronasphere), Les Colornats Wacker (Covapure, Vert oxyde de Chrome), Cadre (Colorona, Sicopearl), BASF (Sicopearl, Sicovit), Rona (Colorona) known. As a particularly advantageous Pearlescent pigment, for example, have Timiron Silk Gold and Colorona Red Gold proven.

Advantageous color pigments are also titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. (The fabrics are sorted by their Color Index Number.)

The dyes and pigments can both individually and in a mixture and mutually be coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced.

The list of dyes mentioned and color pigments used in the emulsions of the invention can, should go without saying not be limiting.

Emulsions according to the invention can also Contain powder substances. Bismuth oxychloride, for example, Titanized mica, fumed silica, spherical Silicon dioxide beads, polymethyl methacrylate beads, micronized Teflon, boron nitride, acrylate polymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, Bentonite, calcium silicate, cellulose, chalk, corn starch, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated Silica, kaolin, magnesium hydroxides, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicates, Magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline Cellulose, rice starch, Silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate, Zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, aluminum oxide, attapulgite, Calcium carbonate, calcium silicate, dextran, kaolin, nylon, silica silylate, Silk powder, serecite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell or any mixtures can be used.

In formulations according to the invention, large amounts of hydrophilic as well as hydrophobic active substances or combinations of hydrophilic and hydrophobic active substances can be incorporated into the formulations. Such active substances which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, acetylsalicylic acid, azulene, ascorbic acid, vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, in particular the essential fatty acids (often also called vitamin F), in particular γ-linolenic acid, Oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

In addition, care ingredients can be incorporated which are not limited to the fat-soluble active ingredients, but also from the group of water-soluble Active ingredients selected can be for example vitamins and the like.

An amazing property of the Preparations according to the invention is that this is very good vehicle for cosmetic or dermatological Active substances in the skin, preferred active substances being antioxidants, which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

The preparations therefore contain advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications of suitable or customary antioxidants be used. It is advantageous to have antioxidants as the only ones Active ingredient class to use, for example, when a cosmetic or dermatological application stands in the foreground like the fight against oxidative stress on the skin. But it is also cheap that W / O emulsion sticks according to the invention to contain one or more antioxidants, if the preparations are to serve another purpose, e.g. as deodorants or sunscreens.

The antioxidants are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- Carnosine and its derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioglycerin, thiosorbitol, thioglycol , Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl - and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionins sulfones, pentate, hexa-, heptahionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, Lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. gamma-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol, their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitates, Mg - ascorbyl phosphates, ascorbylacetates), isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, Ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid e and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g.

Stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and those suitable according to the invention Derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of antioxidants used in the preparations preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-20% by weight, especially 0.001 - 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that represent the antioxidants, it is advantageous to their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A or: vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 - 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the invention, active ingredients can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, for example hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins, for example ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of B- and D series, very cheap vitamin B ₁ , vitamin B _12, vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F), especially γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, Caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, for example evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin Oil ^® , Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® .

The will be particularly advantageous or the active ingredients are also selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention are used for Treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin are said to serve. Preferred NO synthase inhibitor is the nitroarginine.

The or will be further advantageous the active ingredients selected from the group which catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or comprises organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as the leaves the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia species sinensis (greener Tea). Their typical ingredients are particularly advantageous (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, Lipids).

Catechins represent a group of Compounds to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins are and derivatives of "catechins" (Catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active ingredient in the sense of the present invention.

Vegetable are also advantageous excerpts Containing catechins, in particular green tea extracts, such as B. Extracts from leaves of plants of the species Camellia spec., especially of the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also Polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin gallate, (-) - Gallocatechin gallate, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin gallate, (-) - epigallocatechol, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones come in the Usually in glycosidated form.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₇ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe N, OH, Alkoxy- sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group N, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups are branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₆ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxy- sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group N, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of The present invention is to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin. According to the invention particularly α-glucosylrutin is preferred.

Naringin are also advantageous according to the invention (Aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, Hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, Quercetin-3-rutinosid, Sophorin, Birutan, Rutabion, Taurutin, Phytomelin, Melin), Troxerutin (3,5-di-hydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside )), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-a-L-mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)), Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), Flavanomaine (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to the or to choose the active substances from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

aus und stellen die am weitesten verbreiteten und damit am besten untersuchten Biochinone dar. Ubichinone werden je nach Zahl der in der Seitenkette verknüpften Isopren-Einheiten als Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 usw. oder nach Anzahl der C-Atome als U-5, U-10, U-15 usw. bezeichnet. Sie treten bevorzugt mit bestimmten Kettenlängen auf, z. B. in einigen Mikroorganismen und Hefen mit n=6. Bei den meisten Säugetieren einschließlich des Menschen überwiegt Q10.Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. Q10 predominates in most mammals, including humans.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

auf. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n=9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creatine is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and those at the Carboxyl group esterified with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Derivatives.

wobei R gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylreste mit bis zu 10 Kohlenstoffatomen sind vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung. Bevorzugt sind Propionylcarnitin und insbesondere Acetylcarnitin. Beide Entantiomere (D- und L-Form) sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, beliebige Enantiomerengemische, beispielsweise ein Racemat aus D- und L-Form, zu verwenden.Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Further advantageous active ingredients are sericoside, pyridoxol, aminoguadin, phytochelatin, isoflavones (genistein, daidzein, daidzin, glycitin), niacin, tyrosine sulfate, dioic acid, adenosine, pyridoxine, arginine, vitamin K, Biotin and flavorings, sericoside as well as combinations of active substances of the mentioned active substances.

The list of active ingredients mentioned or combinations of active ingredients in the preparations according to the invention can be used should go without saying not be limiting. The active ingredients can be individual or in any Combinations with each other can be used.

The invention relates to Use of the preparation as a cleaning product, especially as Shaving product. The application can advantageously be from a tube, from a pump boamer, a dispenser, an aerosol or a "bag-in-can system" respectively.

The following examples are intended illustrate the present invention without restricting it. All Unless otherwise stated, quantities, proportions and percentages are the same specified, on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations related. The weight percentages given in the examples are active contents.

Beispiele 1 bis 6:

The microemulsions according to the invention are prepared by known methods of cosmetics production, according to the invention a primary surfactant, one or more cosurfactants, optionally one or more W / O emulsifiers, one or more liquid and / or solid oil phases, a glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate and optionally further thickeners and 0 up to 4% by weight of salts are combined, so that the primary / cosurfactant ratio can be set variably with a constant amount of total surfactant and preparations based on oil-containing microemulsions are nevertheless obtained.

Examples 1 to 6:

Clarify all the examples listed the cheap properties of the oil-containing microemulsion gels according to the invention or microemulsions and cleaning products containing them.

Claims (26)

Comprehensive shaving preparation based on oil-containing microemulsions a) a primary surfactant, b) one or more cosurfactants, c) optionally one or more W / O emulsifiers, d) one or more liquid and / or solid oil phases, e) 0 to 4% by weight of salt and f) glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate such as g) optionally one or more further thickeners. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that additionally fatty alcohol ether is included. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that that in addition coconut fatty acid diethanolamide is included. Preparation according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that that in addition fatty acid amidoalkyl betaine is included. Preparation according to claim 1, 2, 3 or 4, characterized in that that in addition Cellulose derivatives are included. Process for the production of oil-containing Microemulsions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized by the combination of the ingredients in constant total amount of surfactant the primary / cosurfactant ratio can be set variably. A method according to claim 6, characterized in that transparent Microemulsions can be obtained. A method according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that not until slightly foaming Microemulsions can be obtained. Method according to claim 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that that the total surfactant content, consisting of a) primary surfactant and b) cosurfactant, is in the range of 1 to 30% by weight. Method according to one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that that the total surfactant content is 25% by weight and the primary / cosurfactant ratio is variable can be set in the range 14: 1 to 1:14. Method according to one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that that the proportion of W / O emulsifier in the range 0.1-25% by weight based on the Total preparation lies. Method according to one of claims 6 to 11, characterized in that that the oil components in the range from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably between 1 to 40% by weight, based on the total preparation. Process for the preparation of microemulsions according to one of the Expectations 1 to 5, characterized in that by the combination of a) 15% by weight total surfactant content, c) 0.001-2.5% by weight of one or more W / O emulsifiers, d) 1-15% by weight of one or more oil phases, e) 0.01 to 5% by weight of glycerol polyglycol ether isostearate, f) if applicable a thickener and g) the addition of 0 to 4% by weight of salts, the Primary / cosurfactant ratio variable can be adjusted and transparent microemulsions are obtained. Method according to one of claims 6 to 13, characterized in that that the primary and / or cosurfactant selected is made from lauryl ether sulfate, lauryl sulfate, betaines, amphoacetate, Cocoamphopropionate, glutamate, acylamino acids and their salts, acyl peptides, Sarcosinate, Taurate, Acyllactylate, Alaninate, Arginate, Valinate, Prolinates, glycinates, aspartates, propionates, carboxylic acids, ester carboxylic acids, ether carboxylic acids, sodium PEG-7 olive oil Carboxylate, phosphoric acid ester and salts, acyl isethionates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alkyl sulfonates, Sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl sulfates, sodium alkyl sulfates, Alkylamines, alkylimidazoles, ethoxylated amines, quaternary surfactants, Ester quats, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain, Benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkyltrialkylammonium salts, Alkyldimethyfhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethyfammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyl ethoxylate dimethyl ammonium chlorides or bromides, Alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, Cetyltrimethylammonium salts, acyl / dialkyfethylenediamines, disodium acylamphodipropionate, Disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, Disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate, and / or N-alkyl amino acids. Method according to one of claims 6 to 14, characterized in that that the primary surfactant selected is made of lauryl ether sulfate and / or lauryl sulfate, and the cosurfactant chosen is made from betaines, amphoacetate, cocoamphopropionate, glutamate and / or Sarcosinate. Method according to one of claims 6 to 15, characterized in that that the emulsifier is selected is made from glyceryl alcoholate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, Glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Diglyceryldüsostearat, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol nozzle stearate, Sorbitan monoisostearate, sucrose distearate, getyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, Arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, 2-ethylhexylglycerol ether, selachyl alcohol, Chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, Glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl sorbitan stearate Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquüsostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated Castor oil, PEG-40 sorbitan perisostearate, isostearyl diglyceryfsuccinate, PEG-5 cholesteryl ether, Triglycerol diisostearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Decaglyceryl heptaoleate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-8-distearate and / or Diglycerindipolyhydroxystearat. Method according to one of claims 6 to 16, characterized in that that the emulsifier is a lipophilic coemulsifier selected from Glycerol esters, propylene glycol esters, sorbitan esters, low-ethoxylated glycerides, Diglycerides or triglycerides. Method according to one of claims 6 to 17, characterized in that that the oil component d) chosen is from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxyalkane carboxylic acids a chain length from 1 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 up to 44 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, provided that the oil component or all of the oil components a liquid at room temperature represent selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, of silicone oils, Lanoline, the adipic acid ester, the butylene glycol diester, the dialkyl ether or carbonate, the Group of saturated or unsaturated, branched alcohols, the fatty acid triglycerides, Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, silicone oil, dicapylyl carbonate, Dicaprylyl ether, paraffin oil, Coco Caprylat / Caprat, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerid, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, octyldodecanol, butyl octyl salicylate and / or diethylhexyl naphthalate. A method according to claim 7 to 18, characterized in that as an oil phase Esteröle chosen are selected from the group cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-ethylhexylaurate, 2-ethylhexypalmitate, decyl oleate, Octyl isostearate and / or isotridecyl isononaoate. Method according to one of claims 6 to 19, characterized in that that as an additional Associative and / or non-associative thickeners and / or cationic polymers can be added. Method according to one of claims 6 to 20, characterized in that that in addition Waxes can be added chosen from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids chain length from 1 to 80 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 1 to 80 carbon atoms provided that the wax component or the whole the wax components represent a solid at room temperature, the natural Waxes, the diester of polyols and C10-C80 fatty acids, the ethoxylated waxes, triglyceride waxes, C16-C60 fatty acids and / or C16-C80 fatty alcohols, the mineral oil waxes. Method according to one of claims 6 to 21, characterized in that that in addition Antioxidants with a share of 0.001 to 30% by weight, especially preferably 0.001-20 % By weight, in particular 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation can be added. Method according to one of claims 6 to 22, characterized in that that usual cosmetic or dermatological substances, such as dyes, pigments, Powder substances, hydrophilic and / or lipophilic active substances, deodorants, Light stabilizers and / or other auxiliaries are added can. A method according to claim 23, characterized in that - Oil-soluble active ingredients, in particular vitamin E and / or vitamin E acetates, vitamin A and / or retinyl palmitates, ascorbyl dipalmitates, bisabolol, coenzyme Q 10 and / or menthol, - Water-soluble active ingredients, in particular allantoin, aloe vera, panthenol, vitamin C and / or Na-ascorbylphosphate as well as - care components / skin moisturizer, in particular glycerin and / or sorbitol. Cosmetic preparations based on oil-containing microemulsions obtainable from a method according to any one of claims 6 to 24. Use of cosmetic preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5 or 25 from a tube or a dispenser, a pumpoamer, a Aerosol or a “bag-in Dose system ".