DE10234884A1 - Stable, non-sticky multi-phase sunscreen compositions contain a silicon-in-water emulsion containing a silicone oil and a polyether-modified polysiloxane and also a lipophilic or aqueous phase - Google Patents

Abstract

Multi-phase cosmetic and/or dermatological sunscreen compositions contain a silicon-in-water emulsion which has more than 50 wt.% of silicone oil in the fatty phase and which includes polyether-modified polysiloxanes; a lipophilic or aqueous phase; and an (in)organic UV filter, there being 2, 3 or 4 phases with at least one not being transparent and/or translucent. Independent claims are also included for such a sunscreen composition produced by high pressure homogenization at 30-1500 (especially 750) bar or by a phase-inversion method involving: (a) production of a surfactant-free water-in-silicon emulsion containing a silicone oil, a polyether-modified polysiloxane and a nonionic emulsifier at above 60 degrees C; (b) tempering at below 60 (especially below 50) degrees C; and (c) adding below 5 (especially below 2) wt.% of a betaine, alkylpolyglycoside, amino acid derivative or quat. ammonium compound surfactant to cause phase inversion.

Description

The present invention relates to multiphase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations one phase of which was a silicone-in-water emulsion that determined Silicone emulsifiers and, in special embodiments, additional surfactants contains and whose other phase contains a lipophilic or aqueous solution, at least one of the Phases is not transparent and / or translucent, as well as their Use.

The present invention relates to furthermore cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing active ingredient, in which the active ingredients are stabilized in a special way.

Emulsions are understood in the general heterogeneous systems consisting of two not or only limited mutually miscible liquids consist of the usual are called phases. In an emulsion is one of the two liquids in the form of the finest droplets in the other liquid dispersed.

Are the two liquids Water and oil and lie oil droplets fine distributed in water before, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water. With a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, z. B. Butter) is the opposite principle, the Basic character here through the oil is determined.

Ordinary O / W emulsions usually contain only 5 to 10% by weight of silicone oils, because there are higher amounts mostly difficult to incorporate into the long-term stability. Therefore, so far W / Si emulsions only known, but have because of their greasy sensors in cosmetics and dermatology found little distribution.

Silicon-based emulsifiers in itself are already known.

Goldschmidt AG offers under the name Abil Care 85 (INCI: Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 Dimethicone; Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) a silicone-based non-ionic emulsifier for O / W emulsions is a clear liquid with an HLB value of around 10. Chemically, it is a mixture of partially alkoxylated polydimethylsiloxanes and a mixture of the esters of glycerol and caprylic and / or capric acid, which has no unesterified hydroxyl groups. These are polyether-modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (I) R - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _m - (SiO (CH ₃ ) R) _k - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _n - (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiR (I) where n + m = 50 to 110, k = 1 to 3, R = HO - ((C ₂ H ₄ 0) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y ), x = 10 to 20, y = 10 to 20 and the weight fraction of the polyether radicals R is from 35 to 55% by weight of the total molecular weight.

This O / W emulsifier stands out due to a long-lasting, silky-soft skin feeling under his Use manufactured O / W emulsions. The emulsifier is color and odorless and has a solidification point <0 ° C.

The use of surfactants in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations are known per se. surfactants For the purposes of the invention, the group of surfactant betaines includes Alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives as well as the quaternary Ammonium compounds.

Fatty acid betaines are derivatives of N, N, N-trimethylglycine, also known as betaine, in which having at least one methyl group by long-chain alkyl radicals, in particular is replaced with 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

Fatty alcohol and fatty acid glucosides are compounds of fatty alcohols or fatty acids with glucose, in particular fatty acids with 8 to 16 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols with 12 to 16 carbon atoms are of interest.

The salts of long chain amino acids that from amino and fatty acids are wetting agents that are not only water-soluble, good u. wash gently resistant are against the hardness of water, but also a favorable influence on the Skin and Can take hair condition. They are said to act as anti-irritants.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are available by alkylation of tertiary Amines. Belong to this group of substances Alkylammonium, imidazolinium and pyridinium compounds. she are called surface active Substances or also used as microbicides.

The trend away from the paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been going on for years. In order to achieve this, people expose their skin to the sun's radiation, since this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin formation. The ultraviolet radiation of sunlight has However, in addition to the acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of skin cancer occurs with excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm) UVB and UVA radiation (Wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and results in premature skin aging.

To protect the skin were therefore developed a range of light protection filter substances that are used in cosmetic Preparations can be used. These UVA and UVB filters are in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Ordinance summarized.

In order to be able to estimate the effectiveness of the sun protection filters for the skin, the sun protection factor (SPF or LF) or sun protection factor (SF, narrowly called sun protection factor SPF) was introduced by Schulze in the 1950s. It is defined as follows:

The UV light protection filters approved for cosmetic applications also include compounds of the triazine framework:

eine dritte Klasse vorteilhafter Lichtschutzfilter baut auf dem Strukturelement des Benzotriazols auf:

Another class of UV light protection filters is derived from benzimidazole sulfonic acids:

a third class of advantageous light protection filters is based on the structural element of benzotriazole:

Sunscreen preparations usually offered in the form of emulsions. These homogeneous preparations However, consumers are increasingly becoming monotonous and felt boring. The possibilities, however, these formulations are to be made more visually attractive limited. Increasingly consumers are also tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products Inspired by the desire to make the cosmetic formulations themselves to prepare and then "something good" to do. To counter this innovative drive of consumers two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly coming offered, which the customer can convert to a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and subsequently can apply. To give customers the pleasure of "mixing themselves" before each use to allow However, the homogeneous emulsion must be in a reasonable time segregate again. This is the only way to match the play instinct of consumers and enjoyment of the application can be guaranteed. Not least enable the multi-phase products completely novel optical design options.

Unfortunately, according to the current state of the art, only transparent two-phase cosmetic sunscreen preparations based on a lipophilic and an aqueous phase are to be formulated. However, these have the disadvantage that they usually segregate too quickly after homogenization by shaking. In addition, it has not hitherto been possible to use pigmentary organic and / or inorganic UV filters in these preparations in order to achieve high sun protection factors in this way. Last but not least, these products do not evoke the association of care and due to their appearance UV protection, which is usually combined with white-colored preparations with a creamy consistency.

It was therefore the job of present invention the shortcomings the state of the art to eliminate and multiphase cosmetic and / or dermatological sun protection preparations with high UV protection to develop based on where at least one phase is not is transparent.

European patent application 627259 discloses a method of making an emulsion by adding an oil phase given a water phase and then the phases together are mixed, the oil phase silicone oil and a silicone oxalkylene copolymer and the aqueous phase contains another silicone oxalkylene copolymer and the HLB value of the mixture the silicone oxalkylene copolymer is between 4 and 7. About one Use of silicone oxalkylene copolymers with an HLB value between 9 and 11, however, nothing is disclosed.

The German patent 4241799 describes one of two separate phases existing cosmetic preparation, the two phases by shaking combine to form an emulsion that then reappears separates into the two phases and the 0.05 to 5 wt.% of a certain Contains silicone copolyols. In contrast, is about Preparations that have long been stable emulsions are nothing disclosed.

European patent 516547 describes stable cosmetic O / W or Si / W emulsions, the oil phase of which consists essentially of silicone oil exists and whose emulsifier is a certain polyorganosiloxane polyethylene is. about the use of silicone oxalkylene copolymers, where "alkylene" not just "-ethylene" means nothing is revealed.

European patent specification 279319 describes cosmetic O / W or Si / W emulsions, the oil phase of which determined Pigments coated hydrophobically as well as certain silicone oils, also water and certain polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers. About polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers that nothing has been disclosed for long alkoxylated siloxane side chains.

European patent 154837 describes cosmetic emulsions containing 0.2 to 5% by weight of a particular Emulsifier preparation from dimethylpolysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer, one surfactants Substance with an HLB value greater than or equal to 10 and a linear C12-C22 alkanol and 0.5 to 20% by weight a certain silicone oil and an aqueous, alcoholic one Phase included. about however, nothing is disclosed about alcohol-free emulsions.

European patent application 1125574 describes O / W or Si / W emulsions which contain one or more polyether siloxanes of the general formula (II) R- (CH ₃ ) ₂ -SiO - [(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _n -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -R (II) where n = 50 to 250, R = - (CH ₂ ) _m -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O) _x - (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y R ¹ , m = 2 to 4, x = 3 to 100, y = 0 to 50 and R ¹ = H, methyl or ethyl, with a weight fraction of the polyether radicals R of up to 45% by weight of the total molecular weight, calculated according to formula (III) "Weight fraction of the _polyether residues R in the total molecular weight" = (MW _polyether residues / MG _total ) ⋅100 (III) with MG _total = MG _{silicone residue} + MG _{polyether residues}
and MG _silicone residue = n⋅74.1 + 132.2
and MG _polyether residues = 2⋅ (m⋅14 + 16 + x⋅44 + y⋅58 + z) with z = 1, 15, 29
contain. However, nothing is disclosed about silicone oil-in-water emulsions.

• a) eine Silikon-in-Wasser-Emulsion umfassend
• a1) mehr als 50 Gew.% an Silikonölen in der Fettphase,
• a2) polyethermodifizierte Polysiloxane,
• b) eine lipophile oder wässrige Phase,
• c) mindestens einen organischen und/oder anorganischen UV-Filter

dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Zubereitung zwei, drei oder vier Phasen umfasst und mindestens eine Phase nicht durchsichtig und/oder durchscheinend ist, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen. Dabei ist es bevorzugt, wenn die Zubereitung zwei Phasen umfasst. Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn als polyethermodifizierte Polysiloxane solche der allgemeinen Formel (I) R-((CH₃)₂SiO)_m-(SiO(CH₃)R)_k-((CH₃)₂SiO)_n-(CN₃)₂SiR (I) wobei n + m = 50 bis 110, k = 1 bis 3, R = H-O-((C₂H₄O)_x(C₃H₆O)_y), x = 10 bis 20, y = 10 bis 20, mit einem Gewichtsanteil der Polyetherreste R von 35 bis 55 Gew.% an der Gesamtmolekularmasse enthalten, eingesetzt werden. Dabei sollen die Seitenketten tragenden Methylsiloxygruppen nicht zwingend aufeinander folgen, sondern durch keine, eine oder mehrere Dimethylsiloxyeinheiten voneinander getrennt vorliegen. Besonders bevorzugt tragen die verwendeten polyethermodifizierten Polysiloxane nur eine Seitenkette, so dass k = 1 ist. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn der Gehalt an polyethermodifizierten Polysiloxanen 0,25 bis 15 Gew.%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion beträgt.It has not been foreseen by the person skilled in the art that multiphase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations contain

• a) comprising a silicone-in-water emulsion
• a1) more than 50% by weight of silicone oils in the fat phase,
• a2) polyether-modified polysiloxanes,
• b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase,
• c) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter

characterized in that the preparation comprises two, three or four phases and at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent, alleviate the disadvantages of the prior art. It is preferred if the preparation comprises two phases. It is particularly preferred if the polyether-modified polysiloxanes are those of the general formula (I) R - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _m - (SiO (CH ₃ ) R) _k - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _n - (CN ₃ ) ₂ SiR (I) where n + m = 50 to 110, k = 1 to 3, R = HO - ((C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y ), x = 10 to 20, y = 10 to 20, with a weight fraction of the polyether radicals R of 35 to 55% by weight of the total molecular weight, can be used. The side chains carrying methylsiloxy groups should not necessarily follow one another, but should be separated from one another by none, one or more dimethylsiloxy units. The polyether-modified polysiloxanes used particularly preferably carry only one side chain, so that k = 1 is. It is very particularly preferred if the content of polyether-modified polysiloxanes is 0.25 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

The special one stabilizes Emulsifier the W / Si-Si / W emulsions according to the invention which are partially inverted without their use, which are not stable, to stable Si / W emulsions. The emulsions according to the invention are characterized by a new skin feeling that is long-lasting, can be described as silky and dry. there can often feel the stickiness even without using it very much greater Silicon quantities are avoided. At the same time, the smaller amount leads silicone oil that even higher ones Allow amounts of light protection filter to work in, as these are bad in silicone oils soluble are. Hence can emulsions according to the invention can be formulated with particularly high sun protection factors. Advantageous can also be used in low-viscosity, sprayable emulsions formulate that can do without the use of fatty alcohols and are still stable in long-term storage. In contrast to known ones PIT emulsions, when formulated a relatively small selection of raw materials to disposal stands, can in the case of the Si / W emulsions according to the invention on one broader pool of raw materials, so that almost any desired Sensor technology can be achieved. It can be cosmetic active ingredients Stably formulated in an advantageous manner: hydrophilic active ingredients remain in the water phase and show no tendency in part redistribute into the silicone phase; this will make it a very quick one Release of the active ingredient and thus good availability guaranteed on the skin. Conversely, lipophilic agents are stabilized by that they show no tendency to leave the silicone oil phase or themselves accumulate at the emulsifier / water phase interface; hereby degradation through contact with the water phase is minimized and the Active ingredient optimally against interactions with other (hydrophilic) Preserves active substances in the water phase. The low water absorption capacity leads analogously of silicone oils for improved water resistance, for example in the case of Sunscreen preparations. Also the dilution of those applied to the skin Preparation by sweat secretion of the body is reduced.

It was further found that sunscreen preparations according to the invention preferably contains at least one nonionic emulsifier have, which are particularly preferably selected from the group of Glyceryl stearates, polyethylene glycols, alkyl dimethicone copolyols and / or the alkyl polyglycosides, very particularly preferably from the group the glyceryl stearate citrate, polyethylene glycol 40, polyethylene glycol 100, Polyglycerol-3 methylglucose, Glyceryl stearate.

It was also found that sunscreen preparations according to the invention preferably contains at least one anionic emulsifier which are selected with particular preference from the group trilaureth-4-phosphate, Cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate and salts of stearic acid.

The content is very particularly preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight of nonionic and / or anionic emulsifiers based on the total weight of the emulsion.

It is very particularly preferred if the weight ratio from nonionic and / or anionic emulsifiers to polyether modified Polysiloxanes is 0.001 to 20.

In addition, it is preferred if the emulsion contains a surfactant selected from the group of surfactants Has betaines, alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives or quaternary ammonium compounds.

The use of these surfactants is essential required if the PIS technique for the preparation of the emulsions according to the invention should be used with the particularly elegant benefit books Droplet size distributions can be achieved. But also without using the PIS technique for the production of the emulsions according to the invention is a content of surfactant betaines, alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives or quaternary Ammonium compounds are advantageous because of the stability of the emulsions is greatly improved by this.

mit R = Alkyl (C12-18),
A = -CH2CHOHCH2SO3- (a) oder -CH2COO- (b)
n = 2-6
m = 1-3,
Kokosfettsäureamidopropyl Betain (Cocamidopropyldimethylglycin, CAS 61789-40-0),
Weizenkeimfettsäureamidopropylbetain (INCI: Wheat Germamidopropyl Betaine im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Mackam WGB),
Kokosnußfettsäure und Ölsäureamidopropyl Betaine (INCI: Coco/Oleamidopropyl Betaine CAS 86438-79-1, im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Mirataine COB, Fa. Miranol),
Dimethicon Propyl PG-Betain (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Abil B^® 9950),
Isostearamidopropyl Betain (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Schercotaine IAB), Palmitamidopropyl Betaine (N-(Carboxymethyl)-N,N-dimethyl-3[(1-oxohexadecyl)amino]-1-propanamoniumhydroxid, CAS 32954-43-1, im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Incronam P-30),
Stearamidopropyl Betaine (Stearoylamidpropyldimethylglycin),
Sulfobetaine der Formel

sowie Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betain (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Tego Betain 810 (Goldschmidt), ganz besonders bevorzugt Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betain verwendet werden.It is particularly preferred when as surfactant betaines alkylopolybetaines of the general formula

 with R = alkyl (C12-18),
A = -CH2CHOHCH2SO3- (a) or -CH2COO- (b)
n = 2-6
m = 1-3,
Kokosfettsäureamidopropyl Betaine (cocamidopropyldimethylglycine, CAS 61789-40-0),
Weizenkeimfettsäureamidopropylbetain (INCI: Wheat Germamidopropyl Betaine commercially available at the designation Mackam WGB),
Coconut fatty acid and oleic acid amidopropyl betaine (INCI: Coco / Oleamidopropyl Betaine CAS 86438-79-1, commercially available at the name Mirataine COB, from Miranol),
Dimethicone propyl PG betaine (commercially available under the name Abil B^® 9950),
Isostearamidopropyl Betaine (commercially available under the name Schercotaine IAB), Palmitamidopropyl Betaines (N- (carboxymethyl) -N, N-dimethyl-3 [(1-oxohexadecyl) amino] -1-propanamonium hydroxide, CAS 32954-43-1, commercially available under the name Incronam P-30),
Stearamidopropyl betaines (Stearoylamidpropyldimethylglycin)
Sulfobetaines of the formula

  and capryl / capramidopropyl Betaine (commercially available under the name Tego Betain 810 (Goldschmidt), very special preferably capryl / capramidopropyl betaine can be used.

wobei R = N oder Glucosyl und n = 5-13 ist, eingesetzt werden.It is particularly preferred if compounds of the formula are used as alkyl polyglycosides

where R = N or glucosyl and n = 5-13 can be used.

wobei R ein Gemisch aus Caprylyl- u. Caprylresten ist (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Triton CG-IIO),
Cetearyl Glucoside (Ketostearylether der Glukose; im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Montanol 68),
Decylglucosid (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Plantaren 2000),
Laurylglucosid (im Handel erhältlich unter der Bezeichnung Plantaren 1200).Very particularly preferred alkyl polyglycosides are caprylyl / caprylic glucosides of the formula

where R is a mixture of caprylyl u. Capryl is (commercially available under the name Triton CG-IIO),
Cetearyl glucoside (ketostearyl ether of glucose; commercially available under the name Montanol 68),
Decyl glucoside (commercially available under the name Plantaren 2000),
Lauryl glucoside (commercially available under the name Plantaren 1200).

It is particularly preferred if the amino acid derivatives are N-cocoyl-L-glutamic acid (COCOYL GLUTAMIC ACID, commercially available under the name Amisoft CA (Ajinomoto)),
Disodium LN cocoyl glutamate (INCI: DISODIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, commercially available under the names Amisoft ECS-22 (Ajinomoto), Amisoft CS-22 (Ajinomoto)),
Disodium lauroyl glutamate (INCI: DISODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE (commercially available under the name Amisoft LS-22 (Ajinomoto)),
Disodium N- (1-oxooctadecyl) -L-glutamate (INCI: DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, commercially available under the name Amisoft HS-21 (P) (Ajinomoto),
Potassium N-Cocoacyl-L-glutamate (INCI: POTASSIUM COCOYL GLUTAMATE, commercially available under the names Amisoft CK-11 (Ajinomoto), Amisoft CK-22 (Ajinomoto),
Potassium N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (INCI: Potassium LAUROYL GLUTAMATE, commercially available under the name Amisoft LK-11 (Ajinomoto),
Triethanolamine N-Cocoyl-L-glutamate (INCI TEA-Cocoyl glutamate, commercially available under the name Amisoft CT-12 (Ajinomoto),
Sodium N- (1-oxooctadecyl) -L-glutamate (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate, commercially available under the names Amisoft HS-11 P (Ajinomoto) and Amisoft GS-11 P (33377) (Ajinomoto)),
DL-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt of L-cocoylarginine ethyl ester (INCI: PCA ETHYL COCOYL ARGINATE, commercially available under the name CAE (Ajinomoto)),
Triethanolamine N-cocoyl-L-alaninate (INCI TEA-cocoyl alaninate, commercially available under the name Amilite ACT-12 (Ajinomoto)),
Sodium N-cocoacylglycinate (INCI: Sodium Cocooyl Glycinate, commercially available under the names Amilite GCS-12 (Ajinomoto) and Amilite GCS-11 F (Ajinomoto),
N- (carboxymethyl) -N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-octadecanaminium hydroxide (INCI: dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate),
Sodium N-Cocoyl-L-glutamate (INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, commercially available under the names Amisoft CS-11 (Ajinomoto), Hostapon CCG (Clariant GmbH), Hostapon KCG (Clariant GmbH (Surfactants, Personal Care)), Amisoft CS-22 (32668) (Ajinomoto), Amisoft GS-11 (32669) (Ajinomoto), Amisoft GS-11 P (32670) (Ajinomoto), Elespher Vitaplex Hydro (32671) (Serobiologiques).

Very particularly preferred amino acid derivative is sodium N-cocoyl-L-glutamate.

It is particularly preferred if the quaternary ammonium compounds Coco Alkyl Ethyldimethylammonium Ethyl Sulfate (INCI: Coco-Ethyldimonium-Ethosulfate, commercially available under the name Dextrol AS-150 (Dexter)),
[2 - [[2 - [(2-carboxyethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethyl] amino] -2-oxoet, INCI: Cocobetainamido Amphopropionate, commercially available under the name REWOTERIC QAM 50 (Witco Surfactants GmbH)),
Cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Cocoyltrimonium Chloride, commercially available under the names Arquad C-33W (Akzo Nobel), Arquad C-50 (9269) (Akzo Nobel), Masil EM 930 C (9270) (BASF), Servamine KAC 412 (9271 ) (Servo Delden), Solvariane (9272) (Wackherr), Di-C12-15-Alkyldimethylammoniumchlorid (INCI: Di-C12-15-Alkyldimoniumchloride, commercially available under the names Carsoquat 457 E (Lonza Inc./Lonza Ltd.) , Carsoquat 457 I (Lonza Inc./Lonza Ltd.), Carsoquat 457 P (Lonza Inc./Lonza Ltd.),
Quaternium-18 (commercially available under the designations AEC Quaternium-18 (A & E Connock), Arquad NC (Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry), Kemamine Q-9702C (Witco), Radiaquat 6442 (Fing Chemicals), Varisoft DHT (Witco) , Varisoft 442 100P (Witco), Arquad 2HT-75 (30273) (Akzo Nobel)),
Quaternium-26 (commercially available under the name Ceraphyl 65 (ISP Van Dyk), Incroquat 26 (Croda, Inc.)),
Tallow trimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Tallowtrimonium Chloride, commercially available under the name Arquad T-30 (Akzo Nobel Surface Chemistry), Varisoft 471 (Witco), Arquad T-50 (34946) (Akzo Nobel), Dow Corning 929 Cationic Emulsion (34947) (Dow Corning), Dow Corning 1669 Cationic Emulsion (34948) (Dow Corning), Nansicone E-2153 (34949) (Hansotech)).

Preferably contain sunscreen preparations according to the invention a silicone-in-water emulsion, the available is particularly preferred by high pressure homogenization at 30 to -1500 bar at 750 bar.

Also preferably contain sunscreen preparations according to the invention a silicone-in-water emulsion, the available is characterized by using the PIS technique

• (a) Preparation of a surfactant-free water-in Silicone emulsion at temperatures above 60 ° C, particularly preferably above 50 ° C, where the surfactant-free water-in-silicone emulsion
• (a1) more than 50% by weight of silicone oils in the fat phase,
• (a2) polyether-modified polysiloxanes,
• (a3) comprises at least one nonionic emulsifier,
• (b) Tempering to temperatures below 60 ° C, especially preferably below 50 ° C,
• (c) addition of less than 5% by weight, particularly preferably less chosen as 2% by weight of surfactants from the group of surfactant betaines, alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives or quaternary Ammonium compounds to reverse phase to a silicone-in-water emulsion.

A particular embodiment of the present invention are multi-phase sunscreen preparations which have at least one lipophilic or aqueous further phase and at least one organic contain and / or inorganic UV filter, at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent. Particularly advantageous additional linear polyether-modified polysiloxanes are those of the general formula (II) R- (CH ₃ ) ₂ -SiO - [(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _n -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -R (II) used
where n = 50 to 250, R = - (CH ₂ ) _m -O- (C ₂ H ₄ O) _x - (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y R ¹ , m = 2 to 4, x = 3 to 100, y = 0 to 50 and R ¹ = N, methyl or ethyl, the weight fraction of the polyether radicals R being up to 45% by weight of the total molecular weight, calculated according to formula (III) "Weight fraction of the _polyether residues R in the total molecular mass" = (MW _polyether residues / MG _total ) ⋅100 (III) with MG _total = MG _{silicone residue} + MG _{polyether residues}
and MG _silicone residue = n⋅74.1 + 132.2
and MG _polyether residues = 2⋅ (m⋅14 + 16 + x⋅44 + y⋅58 + Z) with z = 1, 15, 29.

The silicone-in-water emulsion according to the invention particularly preferably contains silicone oils chosen from the group of cyclic silicone oils.

The number average of the droplet size of the silicone-in-water emulsion is preferably less than 1 μm very particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm, very particularly preferably 70 to 100 nm.

Preferably contain sun protection preparations according to the invention a lipophilic or aqueous Phase in an amount of 5 to 95 vol .-%, in particular 10 to 90 Vol% based on the total volume of the formulation.

Sunscreen preparations according to the invention particularly preferably comprise as additional Emulsifiers glyceryl stearate citrate, ethoxylated fatty acids and / or Phosphate emulsifiers and / or polysorbates.

As a particularly preferred ethoxylated fatty acid PEG-40 stearate can be used.

As a particularly preferred phosphate emulsifier cetyl phosphate can be used.

Preferably contain sunscreen preparations according to the invention one or more O / W or Si / W emulsifiers in one concentration from 0.1 to 3% by weight.

It is particularly preferred if triazines, bisimidazylates substituted asymmetrically as organic UV filters, Benzotriazoles and / or UV filters that are liquid at room temperature are used become. It is also particularly preferred if it is used as an inorganic pigment UV filter Titanium dioxide and / or zinc oxide is used.

Very fine particles can advantageously be used emulsions according to the invention manufacture using a process of droplet size reduction. In general, the droplet size distribution unified. This can be done in homogenizers by energy input into the disperse system in question. Depending on the type of Homogenizer can different specific energy inputs into the one to be homogenized Be implemented well. Usually Homogenizers are used that work on the rotor-stator principle are built up. Significantly higher energy inputs can be achieved by high pressure homogenization. Doing so compresses the fluid to be homogenized with a high pressure pump and then through a special homogenizing valve relaxes. The pressure drop across that Homogenizing valve is usually 30 to 1500 bar, exceptionally up to 2000 bar. During the relaxation process high accelerations and turbulence occur within the fluid on, which cause a fine comminution of the droplets. So droplet sizes can be below from 1 μm, usually 50 to 200 nm can be achieved. To produce emulsions according to the invention can it is particularly preferred if the high pressure homogenization at 750 bar carried out becomes. The droplet sizes according to the invention can thus be achieved particularly well.

Particularly advantageous for the production emulsions according to the invention is the so-called PIS method described below. It is known to have certain hydrophilic emulsifiers such as typically ethylene glycol dialkyl ether for example polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20) their solubility behavior with increasing temperature of water soluble change to fat soluble. The Temperature range in which the emulsifiers have changed their solubility, is called phase inversion temperature range (PIT). This attribute is the basis for a manufacturing process for Emulsions, the so-called PIT technique. The appearance used that emulsifier stabilized O / W emulsions when exceeded the phase inversion temperature is usually a reversible phase inversion suffer, that is, the inner phase becomes the outer. So you get first a W / O emulsion. cools the inverted emulsion below the phase inversion temperature off, so can O / W emulsions with particularly small droplet sizes are created. However Si / W emulsion has so far not been successfully produced using PIT technology Service.

Formulations which contain predominantly non- or medium-polar lipids, they contain polyether-modified polysiloxanes and auxiliaries, likewise first form a metastable W / O or W / Si emulsion. This W / O or W / Si emulsion is characterized by a very small droplet size and is only stable for a limited time (max. 3 months at room temperature). After this W / O or W / Si emulsion has been prepared, surfactants according to the invention are used below 50 ° C. in a concentration range of less than 5% by weight, especially before added less than 2% by weight, based on the total formulation, and receives a phase inversion to the O / W or Si / W emulsion. This phase inversion preserves the small droplet size and gives a long-term stable O / W or Si / W or Si / W emulsion. This inversion through the addition of surfactants can also be obtained if the lipid phase consists predominantly of linear or cyclic silicone oils. Then a metastable water-in-silicone emulsion is first formed, which inverts through the addition of surfactant and forms a long-term stable silicone-in-water emulsion.

Such sunscreen preparations are particularly preferred in clear and / or translucent packaging containers stored and applied from these.

This particular embodiment the invention also includes a method for producing sunscreen preparations, the Si / W emulsion and the lipophilic or aqueous phase first prepared in separate containers and subsequently be combined, and the use of the emulsifiers described to set the phase separation speed of the described Sunscreen preparations after their homogenization, for example by manual shaking.

This particular embodiment The ending also includes use of the sun protection preparations described as a sunscreen after it has been homogenized by shaking.

The multi-phase sun protection preparations according to the invention show a particularly rapid phase separation. When used, lipophilic and hydrophilic active substances and functional substances applied simultaneously. Due to the relatively low emulsifier content The preparations according to the invention are special skin-friendly.

It is also beneficial in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations to create whose main The purpose of protection from sunlight is not, but it still does Contain the content of other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day care products or make-up products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.

Accordingly, the preparations contain in the sense of the present invention preferably at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one UV light reflecting and / or absorbing inorganic pigment. The formulations can although not necessary, possibly one or more organic ones and / or contain inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which in the water and / or the oil phase and / or the emulsion phase can be present.

According to the invention, all embodiments are where the UV filter substances are only in one of the two phases or are in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.

The preparations according to the invention can also also advantageous in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are present, whereby the natural oils and the synthetic oils by liquid at room temperature UV filters and / or silicone derivatives are replaced.

Particularly advantageous at room temperature liquid UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (Isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters such as the (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane Copolymer, which, for example, at Hoffmann-La Roche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The pigments can be advantageous in the sense of present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions can advantageously be used as dispersants and / or solubilizing agents may be added.

The pigments can be advantageous according to the invention superficial treated ("coated") be, for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic Character should be formed or preserved. This surface treatment can be that the pigments according to known methods with a thin one hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic Layer. The different surface coatings can in the sense of the present invention also contain water.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). This inorganic upper surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, Lauric acid, Dimethylpolysiloxane (also: Dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (Methicone), Simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length from 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. This organic surface coatings can alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic Coating materials occur.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356- 09-1) carried by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

• – Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst mit der INCI Bezeichnung Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr. 27503-81-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Eusolex 232 bei Merck oder unter Neo Heliopan Hydro bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• – 1,4-di(2-oxo-lO-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)bis-(7,7-dimethyi-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-l,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;
• – Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.
• – Hydroxybenzophenon-Derivate, wie z.B. 2-(4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoic acid hexylester, welches beispielsweise von der Firma BASF unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul^® A Plus erhältlich ist.
• – Benzoxazol-Derivate, wie z.B. das 2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzossazol-2-y1-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazin (CAS-Nr.: 288254-16-0), welches beispielsweise von der Firma 3V Sigma erhältlich ist.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:

• - Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP;
• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;
• - 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) bis- (7,7-dimethyi-2-oxobicyclo - [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-l, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no. : 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
• - hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is obtainable for example by the company BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus ^® like.
• - Benzoxazole derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-y1- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5 triazine (CAS No .: 288254-16-0), which is available for example from 3V Sigma.

Advantageous UV filter substances In the sense of the present invention, so-called broadband filters are also i.e. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

• – 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist;
• – Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist;
• – 4,4',4''-(1,3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoesäure-tris(2-ethylhexylester), auch: 2,4,6-Tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), welches von der BASF Aktiengesellschaft unter der Warenbezeichnung UVINUL^® T 150 vertrieben wird.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as, for. B.

• - 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;
• - Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
• - 4,4 ', 4''- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris- [ anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present extension is also the 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2N-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) Cas no .: 103597-45-1, which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl ^® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil soluble or water soluble his.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances for the purposes of the present invention, for. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - derivatives benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - such as UV filters bound to polymers.
• - 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example from Hoffmann La Roche under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection in addition to the filter substance or substances according to the invention) furthermore preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], Phenylene-1,4bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and / or the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-y1- (4phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine, respectively individually or in any combination with each other.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used within the meaning of the present invention Of course not be limiting.

The UV light protection filter advantageous according to the invention are preferred in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, especially in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection formulations are composed as usual and cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, further for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or the Hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

The cosmetic are used and dermatological preparations according to the invention in the usual for cosmetics Sufficiently applied to the skin and / or hair.

The cosmetic and dermatological Preparations according to the invention can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations are used, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, Complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing or increasing foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring Have effect thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fillers, which the skin feeling improve fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all of them can be cheap antioxidants for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, H eptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosoline, carnosoline, carnosoline , Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their deri vate, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001 - 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 - 5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

In addition, selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which z. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), Contain coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as they e.g. B. skin aging (e.g. wrinkles and fine lines) occur. They are also advantageous against the appearance dry or rough skin.

If α-glycosylrutin is the antioxidant represents is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range from 0.001 - 5 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

An aqueous phase present as a second, independent water phase or the water phase of the The O / W or Si / W or Si / W emulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and also their Ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides and their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from NOVEON], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously also contain self-tanning substances, such as dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparation.

The preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (under available under the trade name Insekt Repellent ^® 3535 from Merck.) The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

Fabrics or Mixtures of substances referred to which cosmetic or dermatological Give preparations the property after application or Spread the on the skin surface Release of moisture from the horny layer (also transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) to reduce and / or hydration of the homolayer to positively influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel ^® 1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle agents for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for example in US Pat. B. occur in skin aging, are used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

A second, as an independent oil phase lipophilic phase and / or the oil phase the O / W or Si / W or Si / W emulsion of the formulations according to the invention is chosen advantageously from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as z. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

According to the invention, z. B. natural Waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as Beeswax and other insect waxes as well as berry wax, shea butter and / or Lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, iso nonylisononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethyl hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, stearylheolate trucylate, erylylolate ether, stearylheolate trucate, stearylheolate trucate synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phases can be selected advantageously from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates, advantageous are z. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicapylyl carbonate, for example that under the trade name Cetiol CC at Cognis available.

It is further preferred that the oil component from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C ₁₂ - ₁₃ alkyl lactate, di-C ₁ -Alkyltartrat _2-13, triisostearin, Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention has a content of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example, under the trade name Nallbrite BHB available from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or Diethylhexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phases can also be advantageous also non-polar oils contain, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Mineral oil, Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and Isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred Substances.

The oil phases can also advantageously have a content exhibit cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [Poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 are available from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: Phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicones), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI also as Cyclomethicone amino modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. B. Polysiloxane-Polyalkylene Copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone) which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different Abil-Wax types. But also other silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

• (a) Siloxanelastomere, welche die Einheiten R₂SiO und RSiO_{1, 5} und/oder R₃Si_0,5 und/oder SiO₂ enthalten, wobei die einzelnen Reste R jeweils unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁_₂₄-Alkyl (wie beispielsweise Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl) oder Aryl (wie beispielsweise Phenyl oder Tolyl), Alkenyl (wie beispielsweise Vinyl) bedeuten und das Gewichtsverhältnis der Einheiten R₂SiO zu RSiO_1,5 aus dem Bereich von 1 : 1 bis 30 : 1 gewählt wird;
• (b) Siloxanelastomere, welche in Silikonöl unlöslich und quellfähig sind, die durch die Additionsreaktion eines Organopolysiloxans (1), das siliciumbebundenen Wasserstoff enthält, mit einem Organopolysiloxan (2), das ungesättigte aliphatische Gruppen enthält, erhältlich sind, wobei die verwendeten Mengenateile so gewählt werden, dass die Menge des Wasserstoffes des Organopolysiloxans (1) oder der ungesättigten aliphatischen Gruppen des Organopolysiloxans (2) – im Bereich von 1 bis 20 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan nicht cyclisch ist und – im Bereich von 1 bis 50 mol-% liegt, wenn das Organopolysiloxan cyclisch ist.

The preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

• (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO _{1, 5} and / or R ₃ Si _0.5 and / or SiO ₂ , the individual radicals R each independently of one another being hydrogen, C ₁ _ ₂₄ -alkyl (such as mean methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO _{1.5 is selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1 ;
• (b) siloxane elastomers, which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil, by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2), which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, are available, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) - is in the range from 1 to 20 mol%, if the organopolysiloxane is non-cyclic and - is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

Advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are the or the siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical Powder or in the form of gels.

According to the invention advantageous in the form of spherical Powder present siloxane elastomers are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone crosspolymer, for example that of DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder available.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic Esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof is used.

It is very particularly preferred when the siloxane elastomer in combination with unbranched at room temperature liquid or pasty silicone oils or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof are used. Are particularly advantageous Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11, especially those available from Grant Industries Inc. Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer in the form of a gel made of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase is used, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel is 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present Invention, the total amount of siloxane elastomers (active content) the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. According to the invention, the individual phases of the preparation can advantageously be colored differently. Embodiments of the invention in which only one of the two phases is colored are also advantageous according to the invention. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention in the form of products that are used on the face, is it convenient as a dye one or more substances from the following group to choose: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt the 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4- Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, Aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromfluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), Iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Oil-soluble natural dyes are also advantageous, such as B. paprika extracts, (3-carotene or cochineal.

Advantageous in the sense of the present Invention are also formulations containing pearlescent pigments. The types listed below are particularly preferred of pearlescent pigments:

• 1. Natural Pearlescent pigments, such as. B. - "Fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and - "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. in particular r is particularly advantageous. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Z are particularly preferred. B. the from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available Pearlescent pigments.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be an advantage completely to do without a substrate like mica. Particularly preferred are iron pearlescent pigments, which without the use of mica getting produced. Such pigments are e.g. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 available from BASF.

Are also particularly advantageous also effect pigments sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / slide in different colors (yello, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are in mixtures with different ones Auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can both available individually as well as in combination and mutually be coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ^™ ), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil -S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available from the Monsanto company under the trade name Dequest 2046 and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which, inter alia, from Bayer AG under the trade name Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100 is available.

According to the invention is also advantageous Storage of the preparation according to the invention in clear and / or translucent packaging containers.

The viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between watery thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas). The very thin preparations could in containers can be used with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.

In the multi-phase preparation according to the invention let yourself the choice of which phase is floating on top of each other by simple, determine the way obvious to the expert. Because, as is well known, the layer sequence of the individual phases depends on their density. This let yourself by varying the concentration of individual components of each Adjust phases almost arbitrarily. Furthermore, it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that that also the segregation rate of the two phases after shake the preparation was homogenized over the choice of the density of the individual phases can be set, whereby the principle applies that the rate of segregation with the Difference in density between the two phases increases. Because the compositions vary both phases according to the invention lets are the layer sequence and the separation rate can also be varied according to the invention.

The preparations according to the invention can be advantageous according to the invention can be used as an ointment, cream or lotion. Their use is also in the form of a spray, e.g. a pump spray advantageous according to the invention, the preparations advantageously also being foamed can.

It is also special according to the invention advantageous, the preparations of the invention to be kept in transparent and / or teranslucent packaging and present. Moreover is the use according to the invention of O / W or Si / W emulsifiers to adjust the phase separation speed of homogenized sunscreen preparations and the use of Preparations according to the invention as a sunscreen after being homogenized by shaking.

The omission of a single component impaired the unique properties of the overall composition. Therefore all specified components of the preparations according to the invention are absolutely necessary, to execute the ending.

It is with all of this in individual cases possible, that the above concentration information slightly over or fall below and preparations according to the invention are nevertheless obtained. This comes in view of the wide variety of suitable ones Components of such preparations are not unexpected for the person skilled in the art, so that he knows that with such or falling short of the bottom of the present invention is left.

For the preparations according to the invention In principle, two processes are suitable for their production.

Procedure 1:

• 1st step: Preparation of an O / W or Si / W emulsion after one for common to the specialist Method.
• 2nd step: preparation of an aqueous or lipophilic phase, if necessary with heating up to 90 ° C, to make it more soluble Solving substances.
• 3rd step: Mixing the O / W produced in step 1 or Si / W emulsion with the aqueous prepared in step 2 or lipophilic phase. Mixing can be done by simply stirring up towards a strong homogenization. For this the O / W or Si / W emulsion in a sufficiently large container and then the watery - or the lipophilic phase with stirring added. By strength of stirring or even homogenization, the separation rate can be influenced. A high energy input, in contrast to a low one Energy input (simple stirring) the complete Separation of the two phases slows down. It is recommended before the bottling in the final containers to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization. Both can also Phases in succession (layered) in the final containers filled become. With this type of bottling, can the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.

This method can be used for the 2-phase Product the phase-volume ratio the O / W or Si / W emulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase in a relationship can be set from 1: 3 to 3: 1.

Procedure 2:

In this process, the 2-phase System according to a method known in the art for manufacturing an O / W or Si / W emulsion. After manufacturing begins within 1 second up to 1 hour the watery or to separate the lipophilic phase.

In contrast to method 1, the O / W or Si / W emul is used for the production The phase-volume ratio is determined: for a two-phase system containing an O / W or Si / W emulsion and a lipophilic phase, the total oil phase concentration can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. -% lie. For a 2-phase system containing an O / W or Si / W emulsion and an aqueous phase, the total water phase content can be between 10 and 95% by weight, in particular between 15 and 90% by weight. For the filling of two-phase systems that have been produced using process 2, a particularly good homogenization before filling or filling with stirring is suitable. With both filling variants, it must be ensured that a constant phase volume ratio is maintained.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. Examples:

Claims (27)

Multi-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen preparations containing a) a silicone-in-water emulsion comprising a1) more than 50% by weight of silicone oils in the fat phase, a2) polyether-modified polysiloxanes, b) a lipophilic or aqueous phase, c) at least one organic and / or inorganic UV filter, characterized in that the preparation comprises two, three or four phases and at least one phase is not transparent and / or translucent. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the preparation comprises two phases. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that they are polyether-modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (I) R - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _m - (SiO (CH ₃ ) R) _k - ((CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO) _n - (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiR (I) where n + m = 50 to 110, k = 1 to 3, R = NO - ((C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y ), x = 10 to 20, y = 10 to 20, with a weight fraction of the polyether radicals R of 35 to 55% by weight of the total molecular weight. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the content of polyether-modified polysiloxanes 0.25 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that they contain at least one nonionic Have emulsifier. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group of glyceryl stearates, polyethylene glycols, alkyl dimethicone copolyols and / or the alkyl polyglycosides. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the nonionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group of glyceryl stearate citrate, polyethylene glycol 40, Polyethylene glycol 100, polyglycerol 3-methyl glucose distearate, glyceryl stearate. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that they contain at least one anionic Have emulsifier. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the anionic emulsifiers are chosen from the group trilaureth-4-phosphate, cetyl phosphate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, Salts of stearic acid Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the content of nonionic and / or anionic Emulsifiers 0.01 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion is. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the weight ratio of nonionic and / or anionic emulsifiers to polyether-modified polysiloxanes 0.001 to 20. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that they selected a content of surfactants the group of surfactant betaines, alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives or quaternary Has ammonium compounds. Sunscreen preparations according to one of the preceding claims, that as surface-active betaines Alkylopolybetaine, Kokosfettsäureamidopropyl betaine, Weizenkeimfettsäureamidopropylbetain, coconut and Ölsäureamidopropyl betaines, dimethicone propyl PG-betaine, Isostearamidopropyl Betaine, Palmitamidopropyl Betaine, Stearamidopropyl Betaine, sulphobetaines of the formula H _25-37 C _{1 2 -18} N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -SO ₃ ^- , capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, particularly preferably capryl / capramidopropyl betaine. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as alkyl polyglycosides compounds of the formula

where R = H or glucosyl, n = 5-13, particularly preferably caprylyl / capryl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that as amino acid derivatives N-cocoyl-L-glutamic acid, Disodium L-N-cocoylglutamate, Disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium N- (1-oxooctadecyl) -L-glutamate, Potassium N-cocoacyl-L-glutamate, potassium N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, triethanolamine N-cocoyl-L-glutamate, Sodium N- (1-oxooctadecyl) -L-glutamate, DL-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid salt of the L-cocoylarginine ethyl ester, Triethanolamine N-cocoyl-L-alaninate, sodium N-cocoacylglycinate, N- (carboxymethyl) -N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -1-octadecanaminium hydroxide, N-cocoyl-L-glutamate, sodium N-cocoyl-L-glutamate is particularly preferably used. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that as quaternary Ammonium compounds coco alkyl ethyl dimethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, [2 - [[2 - [(2-carboxyethyl) (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethyl] amino] -2-oxoet, Cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, di-C12-15-alkyldimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-18, Quaternium-26, tallow trimethyl ammonium chloride can be used. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized as comprising a silicone-in-water emulsion the available is by high pressure homogenization, the emulsion being a high pressure homogenization at 30 to 1500 bar, particularly preferably subjected to 750 bar becomes. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized as comprising a silicone-in-water emulsion the available is characterized by using the PIS technique (A) Production of a surfactant-free water-in-silicone emulsion at temperatures above 60 ° C, particularly preferably above 50 ° C, in which the surfactant-free water-in-silicone emulsion (a1) more than 50 % By weight silicone oils in the fat phase, (a2) polyether-modified polysiloxanes, (A3) comprises at least one nonionic emulsifier, (b) tempering at temperatures below 60 ° C, particularly preferably below 50 ° C, (C) Addition of less than 5% by weight, particularly preferably less than 2% by weight of surfactants selected from the group of surfactant betaines, alkyl polyglycosides, amino acid derivatives or quaternary Ammonium compounds to reverse phase to a silicone-in-water emulsion to reach. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that the number average droplet size is less than 1 μm, especially preferably 50 to 300 nm, very particularly preferably 70 to 100 nm is. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that they have a lipophilic or aqueous phase in an amount of 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume based on the total volume of the formulation included. Sunscreen preparations thereby one of the preceding claims characterized that one or more O / W or Si / W emulsifiers contained in a concentration of 0.1 to 3% by weight. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that asymmetrically substituted as an organic UV filter Triazines, bisimidazylates, benzotriazoles and / or at room temperature liquid UV filters are used. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that as an inorganic pigment UV filter titanium dioxide and / or Zinc oxide is used. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims labeled in clear and / or translucent packaging stored and used from there. Sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the O / W or Si / W emulsion and the lipophilic or watery Phase first prepared in separate containers and subsequently be united. Packaging, preferably transparent packaging containing sun protection preparations according to one of the preceding claims. Use of sunscreen preparations after a previous one Expectations, after shaking this was homogenized.