DE102010008321A1 - Cosmetic preparations with improved sun protection performance - Google Patents
Cosmetic preparations with improved sun protection performance Download PDFInfo
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- DE102010008321A1 DE102010008321A1 DE102010008321A DE102010008321A DE102010008321A1 DE 102010008321 A1 DE102010008321 A1 DE 102010008321A1 DE 102010008321 A DE102010008321 A DE 102010008321A DE 102010008321 A DE102010008321 A DE 102010008321A DE 102010008321 A1 DE102010008321 A1 DE 102010008321A1
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- ZAYKUYSGARCXKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(N)=O Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(N)=O ZAYKUYSGARCXKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IVQLSQJMQLZYJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N CCN(CC)c1ccc(C(c(cccc2)c2C(N(CC2)CCN2C(c(cccc2)c2C(c(c(O)c2)ccc2N(CC)CC)=O)=O)=O)=O)c(O)c1 Chemical compound CCN(CC)c1ccc(C(c(cccc2)c2C(N(CC2)CCN2C(c(cccc2)c2C(c(c(O)c2)ccc2N(CC)CC)=O)=O)=O)=O)c(O)c1 IVQLSQJMQLZYJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
- A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8117—Homopolymers or copolymers of aromatic olefines, e.g. polystyrene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9771—Ginkgophyta, e.g. Ginkgoaceae [Ginkgo family]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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Abstract
Die Stoff gewählt aus der Gruppe Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Traubenkernöl), Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Talc, Stearoxytrimethylsilane + Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbat 40, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phenethyl Benzoate, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Nachtkerzenöl), Octadecenedioic Acid, Methyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycine Soja (Isoflavon), Arctium Lappa Extract (KLETTENFRUCHT), Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Ceramide 3, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate eingesetzt in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzzubereitungen führen zu einer Verbesserung der Lichtschutzleistung der Zubereitung gegenüber den gleichen Zubereitungen ohne diesen Stoff.The substance selected from the group Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (grape seed oil), Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Talc, Stearoxytrimethylsilane + Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 40, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phenethyl Bilobaoactien (Gelshengbenbenoate), Ginkgo Benzoate, Ginkgo Benzo Extract , Octadecenedioic Acid, Methyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycine Soybean (Isoflavon), Arctium Lappa Extract (CLIMBARY FRUIT), Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Ceramide 3, Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate used in cosmetic or dermatological light protection preparations lead to an improvement in the light protection performance of the preparation compared to the same preparations without this substance.
Description
Die Erfindung umfasst die Verwendung von mindestens einer Verbindung, ausgewählt aus einer Gruppe von Verbindungen, um die Lichtschutzleistung kosmetischer Lichtschutzzubereitungen zu verbessern.The invention encompasses the use of at least one compound selected from a group of compounds in order to improve the sun protection performance of cosmetic sunscreen preparations.
Die Haut ist das größte Organ des Menschen. Unter ihren vielen Funktionen (beispielsweise zur Wärmeregulation und als Sinnesorgan) ist die Barrierefunktion, die das Austrocknen der Haut (und damit letztlich des gesamten Organismus) verhindert, die wohl wichtigste. Gleichzeitig wirkt die Haut als Schutzeinrichtung gegen das Eindringen und die Aufnahme von außen kommender Stoffe.The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example, for heat regulation and as a sense organ) is the barrier function, which prevents the drying of the skin (and thus ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside.
Unter kosmetischer Hautpflege ist in erster Linie zu verstehen, dass die natürliche Funktion der Haut als Barriere gegen Umwelteinflüsse (z. B. Schmutz, Chemikalien, Mikroorganismen) und gegen den Verlust von körpereigenen Stoffen (z. B. Wasser, natürliche Fette, Elektrolyte) gestärkt oder wiederhergestellt wird.Cosmetic skincare primarily means that the natural function of the skin acts as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) strengthened or restored.
Im allgemeinen ist das Lichtabsorptionsverhalten von Lichtschutzfiltersubstanzen sehr gut bekannt und dokumentiert, zumal in den meisten Industrieländern Positivlisten für den Einsatz solcher Substanzen existieren, welche recht strenge Maßstäbe an die Dokumentation anlegen. Je nachdem, in welchem Bereich des UV-Lichtes absorbiert wird, unterscheidet man UV-B-Filter, UV-A-Filter und Breitbandfilter (welche über den gesamten Bereich des UV-A und UV-B eine Filterwirkung zeigen). Durch entsprechende Auswahl des UV-Filters und seiner Konzentration im Sonnenschutzmittel hat man die Möglichkeit, den Grad der Abschirmung des UV-Lichtes zu beeinflussen. Für die Dosierung der Substanzen in den fertigen Formulierungen können die Extinktionswerte allerdings allenfalls eine Orientierungshilfe bieten, denn durch Wechselwirkungen mit Inhaltsstoffen der Formulierung oder der Haut selbst können Unwägbarkeiten auftreten. Ferner ist in der Regel schwierig vorab abzuschätzen, wie gleichmäßig und in welcher Schichtdicke die Filtersubstanz in und auf der Hornschicht der Haut verteilt ist.In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially as in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply quite strict standards to the documentation. Depending on the area in which the UV light is absorbed, a distinction is made between UV-B filters, UV-A filters and broadband filters (which have a filtering effect over the entire range of UV-A and UV-B). By appropriate selection of the UV filter and its concentration in the sunscreen one has the opportunity to influence the degree of shielding of the UV light. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, however, the absorbance values can at best provide orientation, since interactions with ingredients of the formulation or of the skin itself can lead to imponderables. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how uniformly and in which layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the horny layer of the skin.
Neben dem Einfluß ist auch die Bindungsfähigkeit des UV-Filters in oder auf der Haut von großer Bedeutung für die Wasserfestigkeit der Formulierung. Es ist verständlich, dass öllösliche UV-Filter besser an die (lipophile) Oberfläche der Haut gebunden werden bzw. schwerer von dieser abwaschbar sind als wasserlösliche UV-Filter.In addition to the influence of the binding ability of the UV filter in or on the skin is of great importance for the water resistance of the formulation. It is understandable that oil-soluble UV filters are better bound to the (lipophilic) surface of the skin or are more difficult to wash off this than water-soluble UV filters.
Die Wirksamkeit von Sonnenschutzmittel bzw. der ihnen zugrunde liegenden UV-Filter wird in der Regel in biologischen Wirksamkeitsprüfungen unter standardisierten Bedingungen bestimmt.The effectiveness of sunscreen or the underlying UV filter is usually determined in biological efficacy tests under standardized conditions.
Der Lichtschutzfaktor (LSF, oft auch SPF (sun protection factor) genannt) gibt die Verlängerung der Sonnenbestrahlung an, die durch Verwendung des Sonnenschutzmittels ermöglicht wird. Er ist der Quotient aus Erythemschwellenzeit mit Sonnenschutzmittel und Erythemschwellenzeit ohne Sonnenschutzmittel.The sun protection factor (SPF, often also called SPF (sun protection factor)) indicates the extension of the sun's rays, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the ratio of erythema threshold with sunscreen and erythema threshold without sunscreen.
Zur Prüfung der UV-A-Schutzleistung wird üblicherweise die IPD-Methode verwendet (IPD immediate pigment darkening). Hierbei wird – ähnlich der Bestimmung des Lichtschutzfaktors – ein Wert ermittelt, der angibt, um wieviel länger die mit dem Lichtschutzmittel geschützte Haut mit UV-A-Strahlung bestrahlt werden kann, bis die gleiche Pigmentierung auftritt wie bei der ungeschützten Haut.To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD immediate pigment darkening). Here, similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined which indicates how much longer the skin protected by the sunscreen can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as with the unprotected skin.
Eine andere, europaweit etablierte Prüfungsmethode ist der
UV-Strahlung verschiedener Frequenz/Wellenlänge dringt unterschiedlich tief ins Gewebe ein. Daher ist auch die Art der Schädigung wellenlängenabhängig. Dem UV-A-Schutz kommt hier eine besondere Bedeutung zu, da diese UV-Strahlung (UV-A (Wellenlänge 315–400 nm), im Wesentlichen für die Hautalterung verantwortlich istUV radiation of different frequency / wavelength penetrates the tissue at different depths. Therefore, the type of damage is wavelength dependent. The UV-A protection is of particular importance here, since this UV radiation (UV-A (wavelength 315-400 nm), is essentially responsible for skin aging
UVA-Filter zählen zu den chemischen Lichtschutzfiltern. Sie dringen in die Haut ein, nehmen dort die energiereiche UV-Strahlung auf und wandeln diese in Wärme- oder Lichtenergie um, welche keine Schäden mehr anrichten kann. Obwohl es für die Bestimmung der Schutzwirkung im UVA-Bereich aktuell kein anerkanntes Prüfverfahren gibt (im Gegensatz zu der COLIPA-Methode für UVB-Filter), sollte in der Praxis die so genannte UVA/UVB-Schutzbalance gelten.UVA filters are among the chemical sunscreen filters. They penetrate the skin, absorb the high-energy UV radiation there and convert it into heat or light energy, which can no longer cause any damage. Although there is currently no approved test method for the determination of the UVA protective effect (in contrast to the COLIPA method for UVB filters), in practice the so-called UVA / UVB protective balance should apply.
Um eine Auskunft über die UVA-Schutzleistung eines Sonnenschutzproduktes zu geben, werden verschiedene Versuchsmodelle, sowohl in-vivo als auch in-vitro, angewandt und davon abgeleitete Aussagen auf den Verpackungen getroffen (UVA-Schutz nach Australischem Standard, Persistant Darkening Faktor u. a). Diese Angaben sind jedoch untereinander nicht vergleichbar. Aus diesem Grund hat die EU-Kommission am 22. September 2006 eine Empfehlung veröffentlicht, die für mehr Sicherheit und Transparenz bei Sonnenschutzmitteln sorgen soll. Die EU-Empfehlung sieht einen UVA-Schutz von 1/3 im Verhältnis zum UVB-Schutz vor. Bislang war lediglich der Schutz von sonnenbrandverursachenden UVB-Strahlen in der Kosmetikverordnung geregelt. Mit der neuen EU-Empfehlung soll jedes Sonnenschutzmittel gleichzeitig auch vor UVA-Strahlung schützen. Der Verbraucher soll davon ausgehen, dass ein UVA-Schutz gewährleistet ist, der mit steigendem SPF-Wert ansteigt. Aus ethischen Gründen wird dazu eine in-vitro-Methode vorgeschlagen. Bei der Beiersdorf AG wurde eine in-vitro Methode zur UVA-Bestimmung in Abhängigkeit an den Lichtschutzfaktor entwickelt: die UVA/UVB-Balance. Im Februar 2005 wurde die UVA/UVB-Balance als
Das bedeutet, dass UVA-Filter in Relation von 1:3 zu UVB-Filtern eingesetzt werden und damit der UVA-Schutz mit steigendem Lichtschutz angehoben wird. Die EU-Empfehlung sieht einen UVA-Schutz von 1/3 im Verhältnis zum UVB-Schutz vor. Diese Messmethode trägt den Namen „COLIPA Ratio”. Die COLIPA Ratio muss der Formel nach
Die COLIPA Ratio ist der Standard zur Bestimmung des UVA-Schutzes.The COLIPA ratio is the standard for determining UVA protection.
Auf dem Markt befindliche Sonnenschutzformulierungen erzielen einen ausreichenden UV Schutz häufig nur durch erhöhte Zugabe an UV-Filtersubstanzen.Sunscreen formulations on the market often achieve adequate UV protection only by increased addition of UV filter substances.
Dieser erhöhte Anteil an UV-Filtersubstanzen wiederum führt zu hautunfreundlicheren Zubereitungen, die sich stumpf und klebrig anfühlen, schwer verreibbar sind, problematischer zu formulieren und nicht langzeitstabil sind.This increased proportion of UV filter substances in turn leads to skin-friendlier preparations that feel dull and sticky, difficult to rub, more problematic to formulate and are not long-term stability.
Wünschenswert ist es Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die bei gleichbleibendem UV-Filtergehalt eine verbesserte Lichtschutzleistung erbringen ohne dass Nachteile in anderen Wirkungen der Zubereitungen damit einhergehen.It is desirable to provide preparations which, with the same UV filter content, provide improved sun protection without any disadvantages in other effects of the preparations.
Eine Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung war daher, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik Abhilfe zu schaffen.An object of the present invention was therefore to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.
Überraschenderweise zeigte sich, dass ausgewählte Wirkstoffe, Lipide, Wachse und Emulgatoren besonders wirksame UV-A-SPF-Booster sind. Diese Substanzen verstärken die UV-A-absorbierende Wirkung deutlich.Surprisingly, it has been found that selected active ingredients, lipids, waxes and emulsifiers are particularly effective UV-A SPF boosters. These substances significantly enhance the UV-A absorbing effect.
Die Erfindung ist die Verwendung von mindestens einem Stoff gewählt aus der Gruppe Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Traubenkernöl), Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Talc, Stearoxytrimethylsilane mit Stearyl Alcohol, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbat 40, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Phenethyl Benzoate, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Oenothera Biennis (Nachtkerzenöl), Octadecenedioic Acid, Methyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycine Soja (Isoflavon), Arctium Lappa Extract (KLETTENFRUCHT), Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Ceramide 3, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Lichtschutzzbereitungen zur Verbesserung der Lichtschutzleistung gegenüber den gleichen Zubereitungen ohne diesen Stoff.The invention is the use of at least one substance selected from the group Vitis vinifera seed oil (grapeseed oil), trimethylsiloxysilicate, talc, stearoxytrimethylsilane with stearyl alcohol, sodium polystyrene sulfonate, sodium hyaluronate, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 40, polymethylsilsesquioxane, phenethyl benzoate, ginkgo biloba Extract, Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose Oil), Octadecenedioic Acid, Methyl Palmitate, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Glycine Soy (Isoflavone), Arctium Lappa Extract (VINYL), Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Ceramide 3, Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Di-C12 -13 alkyl tartrate in Cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations for improving the sun protection performance compared to the same preparations without this substance.
Erfindungsgemäß wird als Verbesserung der Lichtschutzleistung die Steigerung der in-vitro SPF, UVA-SPF und/oder Colipa Ratio Messwerte verstanden.According to the invention, the improvement of the sun protection performance is understood to be the increase of the in-vitro SPF, UVA-SPF and / or Colipa Ratio measurement values.
Zusammenführend sind aus einer Reihe verschiedenster Kosmetikbestandteile nur die in der Liste aufgeführten Stoffe identifiziert worden, eine wirksame Steigerung der UV-Schutzleistung zu bewirken, ohne das der Anteil an UV-Schutzfiltern erhöht wird. Dieses gemeinsame Merkmal der Steigerung der UV-Schutzleistung verbindet die ausgewählten Stoffe, ohne dass sie chemische oder strukturelle Zusammenhänge zeigen.In summary, from a number of different cosmetic ingredients, only the substances listed in the list have been identified to provide an effective increase in UV protection performance without increasing the level of UV protection filters. This common feature of enhancing the UV protection performance combines the selected fabrics without showing chemical or structural relationships.
Die Stoffe erhöhen, steigern den Lichtschutz von kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen. Die Zubereitungen weisen zwar per se einen UV-Schutz aufgrund der enthaltenen UV-Filter auf, jedoch wird dieser Lichtschutz erhöht ohne den Anteil an den UV-Filtern zu erhöhen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Stoffe werden aufgrund ihrer Leistungssteigerung auch als Booster, SPF-Booster bezeichnet und das „Steigern” der Lichtschutzleistung auch als Boosting oder SPF-Boosting.The substances increase, increase the sunscreen of cosmetic or dermatological preparations. Although the preparations per se have a UV protection due to the UV filter contained, but this sunscreen is increased without increasing the proportion of the UV filters. The substances according to the invention are also referred to as boosters, SPF boosters due to their increase in performance, and the "increase" in light protection performance is also referred to as boosting or SPF boosting.
Es wurden folgende Zubereitung A, B und C hergestellt und deren in-vitro SPF, UVA-SPF und Colipa Ratio gemessen bzw. bestimmt.The following formulations A, B and C were prepared and their in-vitro SPF, UVA-SPF and Colipa ratio were measured or determined.
Zubereitung A ist eine Zubereitung mit entsprechenden UV Filtern aber ohne die erfindungsgemäßen SPF-Booster, B ist die gleiche Zubereitung ohne UV-Filter und ohne SPF-Booster, Zubereitungen C sind die jeweiligen erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen mit UV-Filter und SPF Booster zu einem Anteil X. Die Anteilsunterschiede werden jeweils durch den Anteil Wasser ausgeglichen. Tabelle 1: Vergleichszubereitungen
Die Messungen zu in-vitro-SPF wurden entsprechend den Vorgaben gemäß
Ein Colipa-Ratio von weniger als 2,3 bedeutet gegenüber der Vergleichszubereitung A eine Steigerung der Lichtschutzleistung.A colipa ratio of less than 2.3 means an increase in light protection performance over comparison preparation A.
In gleicher Weise ist eine Steigerung der in-vitro Lichtschutzleistung festgestellt worden durch in-vitro SPF Messwerte größer 78,1 sowie einem gesteigertem UVA SPF bei Werten größer 13,3.In the same way, an increase in the in-vitro photoprotective power was determined by in vitro SPF measurements greater than 78.1 and an increased UVA SPF at values greater than 13.3.
Erfindungsgemäß führen die Verbindungen zu einem SPF-Boosting (Steigerung der Lichtschutzleistung) um, According to the invention, the compounds lead to an SPF boosting (increase of the sun protection power),
bei den Stoffen aus der Gruppe der Lipide:for substances from group of lipids:
- Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate → SPF-Boosting um 56%Di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate → SPF boosting by 56%
- Methyl Palmitate → SPF-Boosting um 29%Methyl Palmitate → SPF Boosting by 29%
- Diethylhexyl 2,6 Naphtalate → SPF-Boosting um 44%, UVA-Boosting um 12%Diethylhexyl 2,6 naphthalates → SPF boosting by 44%, UVA boosting by 12%
- Phenethylbenzoate → SPF-Boosting um 82%Phenethylbenzoates → SPF boosting by 82%
- Nachtkerzenöl → SPF-Boosting um 8,7%Evening Primrose Oil → SPF Boosting by 8.7%
- Traubenkernöl → SPF-Boosting um 46%Grape seed oil → SPF boosting by 46%
Bei den Stoffen aus der Gruppe der Wachse/Stabilisatoren:For the substances from the group of waxes / stabilizers:
- Stearoxytrimethylsilane → SPF-Boosting um 47%Stearoxytrimethylsilanes → SPF boosting by 47%
- Polymethylsilesquioxane → UV-A-Boosting um 9,8%Polymethylsiloxyquioxane → UVA boosting by 9.8%
- Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate → SPF-Boosting um 54%Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate → SPF Boosting by 54%
- Trimethylsiloxysilicate → SPF-Boosting um 142%Trimethylsiloxysilicates → SPF boosting by 142%
- Talc → SPF-Boosting um 75%Talc → SPF Boosting by 75%
bei den Stoffen aus der Gruppe der Emulgatoren:for substances from the group of emulsifiers:
- Polysorbate-40 → SPF-Boosting um 129%; UV-A-Boosting um 8,3%Polysorbate-40 → SPF boosting by 129%; UV-A boosting by 8.3%
- Polysorbate-65 → SPF-Boosting um 21%Polysorbate-65 → SPF boosting by 21%
- Caprylic/Capric Glycerides → SPF-Boosting um 44%Caprylic / Capric Glycerides → SPF Boosting by 44%
Und bei den Stoffen aus der Gruppe der Wirkstoffe:And for substances from the group of active ingredients:
- Ceramide 3 → SPF-Boosting um 162%Ceramide 3 → SPF boosting by 162%
- Sodium Hyaluronate → UV-A-Boosting um 13,5%Sodium Hyaluronate → UVA Boosting by 13.5%
- Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract → SPF-Boosting um 296%Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract → SPF boosting by 296%
- Ginkgo-Extrakt → SPF-Boosting um 62%Ginkgo Extract → SPF Boosting by 62%
- Isoflavon-150 → SPF-Boosting um 67%Isoflavone 150 → SPF Boosting by 67%
- Dioic Acid → SPF-Boosting um 45%Dioic Acid → SPF boosting by 45%
- Klettenfruchtextrakt → SPF-Boosting um 20%Burdock Fruit Extract → SPF Boosting by 20%
Die erfindungsgemäßen Stoffe und Verbindungen, als SPF Booster bezeichnet, zeigen in UV-Filter haltigen Zubereitungen in mindestens einem Messbereich ausgewählt aus Colipa-Ratio, in-vitro SPF oder UVA-SPF, eine Steigerung der Lichtschutzleistung gegenüber den Zubereitungen ohne den SPF-Booster. Vorteilhaft sind diejenigen Verbindungen, SPF Booster, auszuwählen, die in zwei bzw. drei Messbereichen eine erhöhte Lichtschutzleistung aufweisen. Dies sind insbesondere Glycine Soja, Ceramide 3, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbat 40, Talc und Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate.The substances and compounds according to the invention, referred to as SPF boosters, show preparations in UV filter formulations in at least one measuring range selected from colipa ratio, in vitro SPF or UVA-SPF, an increase in the sun protection power compared with the preparations without the SPF booster. It is advantageous to select those compounds, SPF boosters, which have an increased light protection performance in two or three measuring ranges. These are in particular Glycine Soy, Ceramide 3, Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 40, Talc and Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Stoffe zur Verbesserung der Lichtschutzleistung sind
- – Caprylic/Capric Glyceride (CAS: 73398-61-5)
- – Ceramide 3 (CAS: 100403-19-8)
- – Di-C12-13 Alkyltartrate (CAS: 94095-06-4)
- – Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate (C28H40O4)
- – Methylpalmitate (CAS: 112-39-0)
- – Phenethlybenzoate
- – Polymethylsilsesquioxane (CAS: 68554-70-1)
- – Polysorbate 40 (CAS: 9005-66-7, Polyoxyethylensorbitanmonopalmitat, Tween 40 or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate)
- – Sodium Hyaluronate (CAS: 9067-32-7)
- – Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate (CAS: 9003-59-2) und/oder
- – Stearoxytrimethylsilane (CAS: 18748-98-6) + Stearyl Alcohol
- – Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract
- – Arctium Lappa Extrakt (Klettenextrakt)
- – Isoflavon-150
- – Dioic Acid
- – Ginkgo-Extrakt
- – Polysorbate-65 (CAS = 9005-71-4)
- – Talc (CAS = 14807-96-6)
- – Trimethylsiloxysilicate (CAS = 104133-09-7)
- – Traubenkernöl (CAS = 8024-22-4)
- – Nachtkerzenöl
- Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAS: 73398-61-5)
- - Ceramides 3 (CAS: 100403-19-8)
- - di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate (CAS: 94095-06-4)
- Diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (C 28 H 40 O 4 )
- - Methyl palmitate (CAS: 112-39-0)
- - Phenethyl benzoate
- - polymethylsilsesquioxane (CAS: 68554-70-1)
- Polysorbate 40 (CAS: 9005-66-7, polyoxyethylene sorbitan monopalmitate, Tween 40 or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate)
- - Sodium Hyaluronate (CAS: 9067-32-7)
- - Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate (CAS: 9003-59-2) and / or
- - Stearoxytrimethylsilane (CAS: 18748-98-6) + Stearyl Alcohol
- - Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract
- - Arctium Lappa Extract (Klettenextrakt)
- - isoflavone-150
- - dioic acid
- - Ginkgo extract
- Polysorbate-65 (CAS = 9005-71-4)
- - Talc (CAS = 14807-96-6)
- Trimethylsiloxysilicate (CAS = 104133-09-7)
- - Grapeseed oil (CAS = 8024-22-4)
- - Evening primrose oil
Die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen enthalten UV-Filtersubstanzen. Der Anteil an UV-A Filtern beträgt bevorzugt 0,5 bis 10 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung.The cosmetic or dermatological preparations contain UV filter substances. The proportion of UV-A filters is preferably 0.5 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation.
Die COLIPA Ratio ist der Standard zur Bestimmung des UVA-Schutzes.The COLIPA ratio is the standard for determining UVA protection.
Erfindungsgemäß sind demnach die nach der COLIPA Ratio bestimmten UV-Filter als UVA Filter bevorzugt ausgewählt.
- – 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan (z. B. Avobenzone (Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517))
- – 2-(4'-Diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl)-benzoesäurehexylester
- – Benzophenon-3
- – Octocrylene (Handelsname = Uvinul N539)
- – Drometrizole trisiloxane
- – Bisoctrizole
- – Polysilicone-15 (Handelsname = Parsol SLX)
- – Titandioxid (silikonbeschichtet)
- – Zinkoxid (silikonbeschichtet)
- 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (eg Avobenzone (Parsol 1789, Eusolex 9020, Escalol 517))
- 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoic acid hexyl ester
- Benzophenone-3
- - Octocrylene (trade name = Uvinul N539)
- - Drometrizole trisiloxane
- - bisoctrizole
- Polysilicone-15 (trade name = Parsol SLX)
- Titanium dioxide (silicone coated)
- - zinc oxide (silicone coated)
Wasserlösliche UVA-Filter:Water-soluble UVA filters:
- – Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäuresalzePhenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid salts
- – Terephthalidendicamphersulfonsäure- Terephthalidene dicamphorsulfonic acid
- – Dinatrium-Phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonat- disodium phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate
- – 4-Dicyanomethylen-2,6-dimethyl-1,4-dihydropyridin-N-(ethyloxysulfatestersalz) das mono-Natriumsalz4-dicyanomethylene-2,6-dimethyl-1,4-dihydropyridine N- (ethyloxysulfate ester salt) the mono-sodium salt
- – 2,4,6-Tris-(biphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
Besonders bevorzugte UV-A-Filter sind 4-(tert.-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethan, Octocrylene, Polysilicone-15, Zinkoxid, Titandioxid.Particularly preferred UV-A filters are 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, polysilicone-15, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide.
Die kosmetischen und dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können ferner kosmetische Hilfsstoffe und weitere Wirkstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Bakterizide, Parfüme, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe und Farbpigmente, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate.The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
BeispieleExamples
Die Zahlenangaben beziehen sich auf Gewichstanteile in bezug zur Gesamtmasse der Zubereitungen. O/W-Emulsionen
ZITATE ENTHALTEN IN DER BESCHREIBUNG QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION
Diese Liste der vom Anmelder aufgeführten Dokumente wurde automatisiert erzeugt und ist ausschließlich zur besseren Information des Lesers aufgenommen. Die Liste ist nicht Bestandteil der deutschen Patent- bzw. Gebrauchsmusteranmeldung. Das DPMA übernimmt keinerlei Haftung für etwaige Fehler oder Auslassungen.This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.
Zitierte PatentliteraturCited patent literature
- EP 0887069 [0015] EP 0887069 [0015]
- EP 0887068 [0015] EP 0887068 [0015]
- EP 935959 [0015] EP 935959 [0015]
- EP 1965871 [0016] EP 1965871 [0016]
Zitierte Nicht-PatentliteraturCited non-patent literature
- Australische Standard AS/NZS 2604:1997 [0009] Australian Standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997 [0009]
- DIN 67502 [0012] DIN 67502 [0012]
- ”METHOD FOR THE IN VITRO DETERMINATION OF UVA PROTECTION PROVIDED BY SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS” Guideline 2007a, Prepared by the COLIPA In vitro Photoprotection Methods Task Force [0028] "Guideline 2007a, Prepared by the COLIPA In Vitro Photoprotection Methods Task Force [0028] " METHOD FOR THE IN VITRO DETERMINATION OF UVA PROTECTION PROVIDED BY SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS "
Claims (3)
Priority Applications (3)
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DE102010008321A DE102010008321A1 (en) | 2010-02-17 | 2010-02-17 | Cosmetic preparations with improved sun protection performance |
DE112011100566T DE112011100566A5 (en) | 2010-02-17 | 2011-02-03 | COSMETIC PREPARATIONS WITH IMPROVED LIGHT PROTECTION |
PCT/EP2011/051555 WO2011101258A2 (en) | 2010-02-17 | 2011-02-03 | Cosmetic preparations having improved uv protection performance |
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DE102010008321A DE102010008321A1 (en) | 2010-02-17 | 2010-02-17 | Cosmetic preparations with improved sun protection performance |
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DE112011100566T Pending DE112011100566A5 (en) | 2010-02-17 | 2011-02-03 | COSMETIC PREPARATIONS WITH IMPROVED LIGHT PROTECTION |
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Cited By (3)
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WO2013060559A1 (en) * | 2011-10-28 | 2013-05-02 | Unilever N.V. | An aqueous photo-protective personal care composition |
DE102013217247A1 (en) * | 2013-08-29 | 2015-03-05 | Beiersdorf Ag | Emulsifier-free, skin-conditioning cosmetic or dermatological preparation with sunscreen filters |
DE112019007080T5 (en) | 2019-11-29 | 2023-09-07 | Beiersdorf Ag | Oil-in-water sunscreen composition |
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JP5833476B2 (en) * | 2012-03-02 | 2015-12-16 | 花王株式会社 | Cosmetics |
FR3024037B1 (en) | 2014-07-25 | 2018-03-02 | Sederma | COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL ACTIVE INGREDIENT COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF UNSATURATED FATTY DICARBOXYLIC ACIDS, COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THE SAME, AND COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL USES |
WO2021237318A1 (en) * | 2020-05-29 | 2021-12-02 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising unsaturated dioic acid and uses thereof |
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WO2011101258A3 (en) | 2012-11-15 |
WO2011101258A2 (en) | 2011-08-25 |
DE112011100566A5 (en) | 2012-11-29 |
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R118 | Application deemed withdrawn due to claim for domestic priority |
Effective date: 20120817 |