CN113332159B

CN113332159B - Water-based perfume

Info

Publication number: CN113332159B
Application number: CN202010098586.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: C·罗曼
Original assignee: Chanel Co
Current assignee: Chanel Co
Priority date: 2020-02-18
Filing date: 2020-02-18
Publication date: 2024-07-30
Anticipated expiration: 2040-02-18
Also published as: CN113332159A

Abstract

The object of the present invention is thus to provide new leave-on ethanol free water-based perfume compositions which are stable in storage, in particular remain clear and are non-irritating to the skin. The present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, a perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon moieties.

Description

Water-based perfume

Technical Field

The present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition suitable for leave-on cosmetics, which is clear, transparent and stable during storage. The invention also relates to an ethanol-free perfume product obtainable by diluting an ethanol-free perfume formulation in water.

Background

Historically, perfumes have been prepared by dissolving perfume oils in volatile alcohols (principally ethanol) or mixtures of ethanol and water. The industrialization of surfactants and the development of colloidal science make it possible to dissolve fragrances in water by emulsification using surfactants. When the particle size of the emulsion is about 140nm or less, it is referred to as a microemulsion. The small size of these microemulsions containing perfume oils results in a clear or nearly clear perfume product and does not differ much in appearance from conventional ethanol-based perfumes. Microemulsions contain a physical structure that can be described as swollen micelles, reverse micelles, or as a continuous bilayer. None of these structures are present in conventional ethanol-based perfume products.

The main benefit of aqueous perfumes is that the content of VOCs (volatile organic compounds) can be reduced. Another benefit is that the inherent properties of the perfume oil can be perceived immediately due to the absence of ethanol or ethanol-like alcohols. However, aqueous-based products of microemulsions tend to lather, tacky or even irritate the skin due to the presence of surfactants required to solubilize the fragrance.

These drawbacks are magnified as the surfactant or perfume content increases. This level depends on the inherent efficiency of the surfactant system selected, the ease of dissolution of the perfume oil itself, and the total level of perfume oil in the final perfume product. In any event, T.J.Lin. Surfactants in Cosmetics, surfactants Sci.Ser.Vol.16, (1985), 29-52, mentions that the actual preparation of these microemulsion products would require a much greater ratio of surfactant solubiliser system to perfume oil than 1/1. Thus, there is a need to prepare microemulsions with low concentrations of skin compatible surfactants.

U.S. Pat. No. 5,374,614 discloses low VOC microemulsions for perfume applications with reduced surfactant content. The surfactant system consists of a nonionic fraction and an anionic fraction, which is also representative of other disclosures in the art such as U.S. patent No. 7,655,613.

The nonionic fractions in these documents are based on ethoxylated surfactants known for their excellent perfume solubilising properties. Both patents disclose a lengthy list of ethoxylated compounds. Ethoxylated surfactants having a molecular weight of 400-1200 and based on fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and even alkylphenols as disclosed in U.S. patent 5,374614 and no longer used in consumer products are known to disrupt the lipids of the stratum corneum. Although useful in many consumer and industrial products, these products have other functions in addition to fragrance solubilization, these surfactants are not well suited for use in perfume products for skin or hair. Ethoxylated nonionic surfactants having high molecular weights, such as the ethoxylated castor oil materials disclosed in U.S. patent 8,461.099, are well suited for perfumes for personal use.

The anionic surfactants disclosed in these patents are also well known for their common use in many personal cleansing products, household products, laundry products and detergent products. They are known to interact negatively with the keratinous rock of the skin, causing irritation, especially when deposited on the skin, as is the case with perfume products intended for personal use.

Thus, there remains a need for an ethanol-free water-based perfume composition that remains transparent and stable over time, while being non-irritating to the skin.

The present invention provides an unexpected and advantageous solution to all of these requirements by incorporating new specific esters that completely replace the ethanol or anionic materials described as essential in the prior art. It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide new leave-on ethanol free water-based perfume compositions which are stable on storage, in particular remain clear and are non-irritating to the skin.

Brief description of the invention

The present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, perfume and an ester, wherein the ester comprises ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon moieties.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing said alcohol-free perfume composition, comprising the steps of:

a. a solution of water and ester was prepared with stirring and mixed until a clear and homogeneous solution was obtained,

B. Perfume was added to the solution and mixed until a clear, homogeneous solution was obtained.

The invention also relates to the use of said perfume composition for the preparation of a fine perfume composition, or a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition.

The invention also relates to the use of esters comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon moieties to improve the solubility of perfumes in water and/or to impart transparency to perfume compositions comprising water and perfumes.

The inventors' mahonia is to find that the combination of specific esters, perfume and water makes it possible to provide clear, transparent and storage stable ethanol-free perfume compositions which are completely non-irritating to the skin.

In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, the pH of the composition remains stable over time (at least up to 3 weeks, preferably up to 12 weeks) during storage at 5 ℃ or 45 ℃. Stabilization is understood to mean that the pH does not change by more than 1 pH unit under the different storage conditions tested.

Detailed Description

Ethanol-free composition

In the context of the present invention, an ethanol-free perfume composition is a composition comprising less than 5 wt.%, preferably less than 4 wt.%, more preferably less than 3 wt.%, even more preferably less than 2 wt.%, even more preferably less than 1 wt.% ethanol, and in a more preferred embodiment the composition is ethanol-free.

Water and its preparation method

The perfume composition of the invention comprises at least 50% by weight of water. In one embodiment, the composition comprises 5 wt% to 75 wt% water. In another embodiment, the composition comprises 10% to 50% by weight water, preferably 15% to 30% by weight water.

Perfume

As described above, the alcohol-free composition of the present invention comprises at least one perfume.

In the context of the present specification, the term "perfume" is understood to mean one or a mixture of olfactory active materials currently used in perfumery, which provide a pleasant odour. The mixture of perfumes may be referred to as a "perfume composition". The perfume may be of natural or synthetic origin. Generally, perfumes are hydrophobic compounds which fall into the following chemical classes: terpene hydrocarbons, acetates, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, ethers, nitriles, nitrogen-or sulfur-containing heterocyclic compounds and essential oils of natural or synthetic origin. Since the skilled person is familiar with these ingredients and is able to select the ingredients according to the nature of the product to be perfumed and the desired olfactive effect, a more detailed description is not ensured here.

The water solubility of fragrances is inversely proportional to the theoretical octanol/water partition coefficient, typically expressed as logarithmically "log P octanol/water" or "log Pow". A low log Pow value indicates a more water-soluble molecule, while a higher log Pow value indicates a more hydrophobic compound. Log Pow can characterize fragrances in a chemical environment that is free of surfactants. When surfactant is present, log Pow only partially describes the inherent solubility of fragrances currently controlled by incorporation of fragrance ingredients into the various sites of the surfactant micelles.

In one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, of perfume, relative to the total weight of the perfume composition.

Polar emollient esters

The perfume composition of the present invention further comprises a polar emollient ester. Within the meaning of the present invention, polar emollient esters are defined as amphiphilic polymers. The term amphiphilic is defined as a molecule comprising a water-soluble portion and an oil-soluble portion. In fact, such substances have a strong affinity and can form chemical bonds with polar materials and thus with perfumes.

Thus, the present invention relates to an ethanol-free perfume composition, the ester comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from a carboxylic acid having a carbon moiety of 6 to 22.

In a preferred embodiment, the ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms comprise compounds of formula (I):

Wherein m, n and l each represent a number of 0 to 40,

The sum of m, n and l is 8 to 200, preferably 9 to 30, more preferably 15 to 25 and

B1, B2 and B3 independently represent H or an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of B1, B2 and B3 is an acyl residue having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

In particular, it is desirable to use ethoxylated glycerides as a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above, said mixture comprising:

(i) A compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms;

(ii) A compound of formula (I) wherein two of B1, B2 and B3 independently represent an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, the remainder representing H;

(iii) A compound of formula (I) wherein one of B1, B2 and B3 represents an acyl group having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; the remainder represent H;

(iv) A compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each represent H;

The weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) is 46-90/9-35/1-15.

These compounds are preferably prepared by the reaction between triglycerides and glycerides and ethylene oxide.

Acyl groups having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, are preferably derived from natural fats or oils or synthetic glycerides. Preferred fats and oils are vegetable palm kernel oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil; and animal fats such as animal fat, bone oil, fish oil, hardened oil and semi-hardened oil thereof; and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are acyl groups derived from coconut oil, palm oil and animal fats such as tallow.

A preferred ethoxylated glyceride is the glyceryl polyether-17 cocoate sold under the trade name LEVENOL C-201B by Kao SA. It is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above wherein the sum of m, n and l is 17 and one or both of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil or wherein the ester comprises glycerolyether-20 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) wherein the sum of m, n and l is 20 and one or both of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

Another preferred ethoxylated glyceride is glyceryl polyether-20 cocoate. It is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above, wherein the sum of m, n and l is 20 and one or both of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

In one embodiment, the perfume to ester weight ratio is from 1:1.1 to 1:16 (inclusive).

In one embodiment, the weight ratio of ester to water is from 3:1 to 0.33:1 (inclusive).

In a preferred embodiment, the perfume is present in an amount of 2% to 40% by weight, the ester is present in an amount of 20% to 60% by weight, and the water is present in an amount of 15% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition preferably consists of water, perfume and an ester comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms moieties.

Alkane-1, 2-diols

The alcohol-free perfume composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise alkane-1, 2-diol, preferably having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

The preferred 1, 2-alkane diol is pentanediol (INCI name), sold under the trade name Symrise5 GREEN.

Another preferred 1, 2-alkane diol is octanediol (INCI name), sold under the trade name SymriseCG is sold.

Alkane diols (such as ethylene glycol) provide improved volatility to cosmetic compositions by thinning the composition.

The 1, 2-alkane diol may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

According to particular embodiments of the present invention, the alcohol-free water composition may optionally further comprise one or more additional ingredients including, for example, colorants, pigments, preservatives, and/or bactericides, thereby providing some particular additional advantages. These other ingredients are compounds known to those skilled in the art. They may be synthetic or natural.

Process for preparing perfume composition

For example, the perfume composition of the present invention may be prepared by simply mixing all ingredients; for example, the water and esters of the present invention are mixed to form a clear, homogeneous solution by manual stirring or if necessary using a mechanical mixer, and finally perfume is added to the solution and mixed to form a clear, homogeneous solution.

By "fine perfume" is defined the art of creating a fragrance by combining natural or artificial different perfumes. The aim is to design a pleasant and unpleasant smell.

Detailed Description

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without showing a limiting feature. In these examples, the amounts of ingredients are given in weight percent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

A series of ethanol-free perfume compositions have been prepared comprising:

-60% of the ester content of the polymer,

-20% Perfume and

-20% Water.

Fourteen ester solutions according to the invention were prepared, which esters comprise ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6-22 carbon atoms moieties or esters having similar chemical structures but outside the scope of the invention.

From the results in the above table, it can be seen that the compositions of the present invention comprising esters having ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon moieties provide clear transparent solutions, while the comparative compositions comprising different esters result in opaque solutions.

Example 2

Two further ethanol-free perfume compositions according to the invention (compositions 15 and 16) were prepared having the following composition:

compositions 2, 15 and 16 were all transparent.

In addition, the stability over time of the three compositions according to the invention was also evaluated by measuring the pH of the composition after storage.

The pH of the composition according to the invention remains stable over time during storage. The pH never changed by more than 1 pH unit under different storage conditions.

Example 3

Two further ethanol-free perfume compositions according to the invention (compositions 17 and 18) were prepared having the following composition:

Both compositions 17 and 18 were transparent.

Example 4

Another ethanol-free perfume composition (composition 19) according to the invention was prepared having the following composition:

	Composition 19
		Ester (Glycerol polyether-20 cocoate)	25％
Perfume	8％
		Water and its preparation method	57％
Pentanediol	10％

Composition 19 is transparent and exhibits improved volatility.

Claims

1. An ethanol-free perfume composition comprising water, perfume and an ester, wherein:

The esters comprise ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon moieties and the amount of esters is 20 wt% to 60 wt%;

The composition comprises less than 5 wt% ethanol;

The perfume is present in an amount of 1 wt% to 40 wt%;

the amount of water is 15 wt% to 75 wt%;

The% being relative to the total weight of the composition;

Wherein the ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms include compounds of formula (I):

Wherein m, n and l each represent a number of 0 to 40,

The sum of m, n and l is 15-25

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ethoxylated glyceride is a mixture of compounds of formula (I) above, the mixture comprising:

(iv) A compound of formula (I) wherein B1, B2 and B3 each represent H;

The weight ratio of the compounds (i)/(ii)/(iii) is 46-90/9-35/1-15.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the acyl group having 6-22 carbon atoms is derived from a natural fat or oil or a synthetic glyceride.

4. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the acyl group having 6-22 carbon atoms is derived from coconut oil.

5. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the ester comprises a glycerol polyether-17 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I), wherein the sum of m, n, and l is 17, and one or both of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil or wherein the ester comprises a glycerol polyether-20 cocoate, which is a mixture of compounds of formula (I), wherein the sum of m, n, and l is 20, and one or both of B1 and B2 are acyl groups derived from coconut oil.

6. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of the ester to the water is from 3:1 to 0.33:1.

7. The composition of claim 1 or 2 comprising an alkane-1, 2-diol having 3-10 carbon atoms.

8. The composition of claim 1 or 2 comprising an alkane-1, 2-diol having 3-6 carbon atoms.

9. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising from 2% to 25% by weight of perfume, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the weight ratio of perfume to ester is from 1:1.1 to 1:16.

11. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises less than 4 wt.% ethanol.

12. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises less than 3 wt.% ethanol.

13. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises less than 2 wt.% ethanol.

14. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises less than 1wt.% ethanol.

15. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition is free of ethanol.

16. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition comprises a colorant, pigment, preservative, and/or bactericide.

17. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the composition consists of water, perfume and an ester comprising ethoxylated glycerides derived from carboxylic acids having 6-22 carbon moieties.

18. A process for preparing an ethanol-free perfume composition according to any of claims 1-17, comprising the steps of:

19. Use of an ethanol-free perfume composition according to any of claims 1-17 for the preparation of a fine perfume composition, or a cosmetic composition or a personal cleansing composition.

20. Use of an ester comprising an ethoxylated glyceride derived from a carboxylic acid having a moiety of 6 to 22 carbon atoms in improving the solubility of a perfume in water and/or imparting transparency to a perfume composition comprising water and a perfume, wherein the ethoxylated glyceride derived from a carboxylic acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms comprises a compound of formula (I):

Wherein m, n and l each represent a number of 0 to 40,

The sum of m, n and l is 15-25