CN111920716A - Raw material capable of improving skin aging symptom and preparation process thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms, which comprises a solvent, a macromolecular thickening agent and an active matter composition; the active combination comprises: the first active matter has an active ingredient for repairing extracellular matrix; the second active matter is an active ingredient for promoting the increase of collagen at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis of the skin; active III, having an active component for resisting oxidation; the fourth active matter has an active ingredient for repairing skin barrier, and is plant ceramide 3; the mass ratio of the first active matter, the second active matter, the third active matter and the fourth active matter is 3:1:1: 0.5-3: 1:1, the anti-aging requirements of the epidermis and the dermis are considered from the skin aging mechanism, raw material design is carried out from four directions of repairing skin barriers, repairing DEJ at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis, repairing dermis ECM degradation and antioxidation, the real surface and the surface are combined, and the anti-aging effect is good. The invention also discloses a preparation process of the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom.

Description

Raw material capable of improving skin aging symptom and preparation process thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms and a preparation process thereof, which can be applied to aqua, facial mask and cream emulsion to achieve better anti-aging effect and is suitable for the fields of medicine and personal care.

Background

The young skin generally presents the states of intact skin barrier, sufficient moisture, rapid metabolism, good states of collagen tissues and elastic fibers in the skin and the like, and with natural aging and the influence of the external environment on the skin, the phenomena of weakening of the skin barrier, thinning of the epidermis of the skin, reduction of the moisture content of the skin, increase of the transdermal water loss rate and the like begin to appear, and the change of the skin can cause the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles of the skin. The weakening of the skin barrier can also cause the skin to be easily fused to the influence and damage of the external environment, the skin inflammation can be caused by ultraviolet rays and environmental pollution, the skin barrier is further deteriorated, meanwhile, the skin can generate excessive oxygen free radicals ROS due to the damage of the external environment, MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3, MMP-9 and the like are activated, collagen proteins IV, VII and laminin are degraded, the junction DEJ of the epidermis and the dermis is damaged, the nutrition supply of the epidermis is reduced, the collagen proteins I, III and V are degraded, the dermis atrophy is caused, the elastin and the fibril protein are degraded, the skin elasticity is reduced, and finally, the skin is dry, dark, and has the aging phenomenon of increasing fine lines and wrinkles.

In recent years, anti-aging products become hot spots in the market, but the products in the market have the problems that the anti-aging active substances are compounded too singly and the mechanism design is not comprehensive enough. The invention

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art, provides a raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms, takes the anti-aging requirements of epidermis and dermis into consideration from the skin aging mechanism, performs raw material design from four directions of repairing skin barrier, repairing DEJ at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis, repairing dermis ECM degradation and resisting oxidation, combines true surfaces and has good effect of improving the aging phenomenon from inside to outside.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a process for preparing a raw material for improving skin aging symptoms, which can also achieve the above effects.

One technical scheme for achieving the purpose is as follows: a raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

50% -90% of a solvent;

macromolecular thickener 0.1-1%;

the balance of the active combination;

the active combination comprises:

an active one, which has an active ingredient for repairing extracellular matrix (ECM);

active two, active ingredient promoting the increase of collagen in the junction of epidermis and dermis of skin (DEJ);

active III, having an active component for resisting oxidation;

the fourth active matter has an active ingredient for repairing skin barrier, and is plant ceramide 3;

and the mass ratio of the active matter I, the active matter II, the active matter III and the active matter IV is 3:1:1: 0.5-3: 1:1: 2.

The raw material for improving skin aging symptoms, wherein the active ingredient having the function of repairing extracellular matrix (ECM) comprises one or more of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, glycosaminoglycans and collagen.

The raw material for improving the symptoms of skin aging, wherein the active ingredient for promoting collagen increase at the skin epidermal and dermal junction (DEJ) comprises one or more of Melia africana bark extract, Hoodia seeds extract and hydrolyzed flax seed extract.

The raw material for improving skin aging symptoms is characterized in that the active ingredient with antioxidant effect comprises one or more of carnosine, tea extract, decarboxylated carnosine and ergothioneine.

The raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms is characterized in that the fatty acid carbon chain of the plant ceramide 3 is C18-C24.

The raw material for improving the skin aging symptom, wherein the solvent comprises one or more of water, 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol and glyceryl polyether-26.

The raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom, wherein the macromolecular thickening agent comprises one or more of acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, sclerotium rolfsii and succinyl glycan.

The invention also provides a preparation process of the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom, which comprises the following steps:

s1, adding water into the main pot, adding the macromolecular thickening agent under stirring, homogenizing and stirring to prepare a uniformly mixed macromolecular thickening solution, and heating the macromolecular thickening solution to 80-85 ℃;

s2, heating the plant ceramide 3 to 90 ℃, and completely dissolving to form a pre-prepared phase 1;

s3, adding the pre-prepared phase 1 into the macromolecular thickening solution prepared in the step S1, homogenizing at 80-85 ℃ for 5-10 min, and cooling to 45 ℃ after homogenizing to form a pre-prepared phase 2;

s4, dispersing the first active matter, the second active matter and the three-purpose solvent of the active matter to form a pre-prepared phase 3;

s5, adding the pre-prepared phase 3 into the pre-prepared phase 2 obtained in the step S3 under stirring, homogenizing and stirring for 15min, and sieving with a 200-mesh filter screen to obtain the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom.

The technical scheme of the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom and the preparation method thereof is adopted, starting from the skin aging mechanism, considering the anti-aging requirements of the epidermis and the dermis, designing the raw material from four directions of repairing the skin barrier, repairing the DEJ at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis, repairing the ECM degradation of the dermis and resisting oxidation, combining the true surface and the true surface, and from inside to outside, and having good effect of improving the aging phenomenon.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a photograph of erythema in a barrier repair assessment test;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the results of the wrinkle improvement evaluation test;

FIG. 3 is a diagram of the results of a volunteer self-rated questionnaire.

Detailed Description

In order that those skilled in the art will better understand the technical solution of the present invention, the following detailed description is given with reference to the accompanying drawings:

TABLE 1

The raw materials of examples 1 to 5 capable of improving skin aging symptoms were prepared according to the formulation of table 1, and the specific preparation process was:

s1, adding purified water into the main boiler, adding the macromolecular thickening agent under stirring, homogenizing and stirring to prepare a uniformly mixed macromolecular thickening solution, and heating the macromolecular thickening solution to 80-85 ℃;

s2, heating the plant ceramide 3 to 90 ℃, and completely dissolving to form a pre-prepared phase 1;

s3, adding the pre-prepared phase 1 into the macromolecular thickening solution prepared in the step S1, homogenizing at 80-85 ℃ for 5-10 min, and cooling to 45 ℃ after homogenizing to form a pre-prepared phase 2;

s4, dispersing the first active substance, the second active substance and the third active substance (other active ingredients except the plant ceramide 3) by using a solvent to form a pre-prepared phase 3;

s5, adding the pre-prepared phase 3 into the pre-prepared phase 2 obtained in the step S3 under stirring, homogenizing and stirring for 15min, and sieving with a 200-mesh filter screen to obtain the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom.

The raw materials capable of improving the skin aging symptom are compounded with active substances according to the skin aging mechanism, such as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, glucosamino dextran and collagen, which have the effects of inhibiting metalloprotease, promoting the generation of collagen mucopolysaccharide and repairing extracellular matrix (ECM); melaleuca indica bark extract, jojoba seed extract, hydrolysed linseed extract are capable of promoting the production of collagen IV, VII, capable of repairing the epidermal and dermal junction (DEJ) skin; carnosine, tea extract, decarboxylated carnosine and ergothioneine have the functions of reducing ROS and resisting oxidation; the phytoceramide 3 has the effects of reducing the transdermal water loss rate TEWL and repairing skin barriers.

The vegetable ceramide 3 is prepared by condensation reaction of fatty acid in vegetable oil and phytosphingosine, and the fatty acid carbon chain of the vegetable ceramide 3 is C18-C24; the vegetable oil comprises one or more of Prinsepia utilis Royle oil, Camellia Diantha seed oil, and Butyrospermum parkii fruit resin, such that the vegetable ceramide 3 contains at least one ceramide 3 of plant origin.

The invention is especially concerned with the repair of the skin barrier, and the applicant considers that the repair of the skin barrier is the root of any skin recovery problem, and the plant ceramide 3 plays the role in the invention, the fatty acid carbon chain of the currently widely used ceramide 3 on the market is 18 carbons, but the fatty acid carbon chain of the ceramide existing in the lipid between human skin and epidermal cells is distributed in the interval of C14-C26, and mainly takes C24, so the plant ceramide 3 is used in the invention, the ceramide structure in the human skin is simulated to the maximum extent, and the better skin barrier repair effect is achieved.

Stability investigation test:

the raw materials for improving skin aging symptoms of examples 1 to 5 were subjected to stability tests under different temperature and light conditions, and the test results of the stability tests are shown in table 2:

TABLE 2

The results of the stability test in Table 2 show that the raw materials for improving skin aging symptoms of the present invention are stable and do not delaminate under the temperature condition of-15 ℃ to 49 ℃ and under the daily light conditions.

And (3) testing the efficacy:

the raw material for improving skin aging symptoms of example 2 was applied to cream in an amount of 15% to perform a 4-week human body test, and barrier repair, wrinkle improvement evaluation and volunteer self-evaluation were performed using an instrument.

Volunteers: 8 women aged 20-35 years had acne/marks, dull, dry, etc. on their faces;

the using method comprises the following steps: only using specified products (face cleaning cream and toner) in the period, and using essence cream after face cleaning and toner, wherein the essence cream is used once in the morning and at night;

test interval: week 0, week 1, week 2, week 3, week 4.

And (3) barrier repair evaluation:

1.1 taking the cross polarization picture of the image taken by Visia-CR, and separating to obtain the erythema picture. The photograph allows the observation of erythema, inflammatory lesions, telangiectasia, etc. in the underlying layer of the skin, thereby aiding in the judgment of whether the cosmetic will irritate the skin or has a soothing effect on the skin. The results are shown in fig. 1, and it can be seen from fig. 1 that the condition of erythema, inflammatory lesions, telangiectasia in the lower skin layer of the volunteers was significantly improved after 4 weeks of use.

1.2 the Tewameter probe of the CK skin tester was used to test moisture and transdermal water loss in selected areas of the cheek, and the skin moisture and TEWL test results are shown in table 3:

right cheek select area	Day 0	14 days (2 weeks)	28 days (4 weeks)
				Moisture content of skin MMV	63.18	70.82	68.8
Percutaneous water loss TEWL	43.1	24.5	24.2

TABLE 3

According to the skin moisture and TEWL test results of table 3, the anti-aging essence cream added with the raw material for improving skin aging symptoms according to the present invention has the effect of repairing skin barrier through 28-day test.

Wrinkle improvement evaluation:

2.1 converting the parallel polarization photograph into a gray scale image using Visa, calculating the wrinkles in the selected area to obtain the area and ratio of wrinkles, the results are shown in fig. 2 and table 4:

TABLE 4

According to the wrinkle area and proportion test results of table 4, it was shown through 14-day test that the wrinkle area and proportion of the skin of the volunteers were reduced after 14 days using the anti-aging essence cream to which the raw material for improving the symptoms of skin aging according to the present invention was added.

2.2 analyzing the fine lines in the selected area by using the Visa line profile function, the smoother the curve, the smaller/lighter the lines at the position, and the result shows that after 14 days of using the anti-aging essence cream added with the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptoms, the fine lines of the skin of the volunteers are smooth, and the skin becomes smoother.

Volunteer self-evaluation:

a questionnaire was designed for volunteer self-evaluation, and is shown in table 5:

①	is your skin problem improved?
		②	Do you have satisfaction with the skin? (1-9 points)
③	What aspects you think are improved in?

TABLE 5

The questionnaire survey results are shown in fig. 3, and in the volunteer evaluation, 100% of volunteers answer the essence cream on days 7, 14 and 21 to improve the skin, and have high acceptance in anti-aging, fine and bright aspects.

The efficacy tests show that the anti-aging essence cream added with the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptoms has the effects of repairing skin barriers and improving wrinkles.

In conclusion, the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom and the preparation process thereof provided by the invention have the advantages that the anti-aging requirements of the epidermis and the dermis are considered from the skin aging mechanism, the raw material design is carried out from four directions of repairing the skin barrier, repairing the junction DEJ of the epidermis and the dermis, repairing the degradation of the dermis ECM and resisting oxidation, the true surface and the surface are combined, and the raw material has a good effect of improving the aging phenomenon from inside to outside.

It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the present invention and are not to be used as a limitation of the present invention, and that changes and modifications to the above described embodiments are within the scope of the claims of the present invention as long as they are within the spirit and scope of the present invention.

Claims (8)

1. The raw material capable of improving skin aging symptoms is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

50% -90% of a solvent;

macromolecular thickener 0.1-1%;

the balance of the active combination;

the active combination comprises:

the first active matter has an active ingredient for repairing extracellular matrix;

the second active matter is an active ingredient for promoting the increase of collagen at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis of the skin;

active III, having an active component for resisting oxidation;

the fourth active matter has an active ingredient for repairing skin barrier, and is plant ceramide 3;

and the mass ratio of the active matter I, the active matter II, the active matter III and the active matter IV is 3:1:1: 0.5-3: 1:1: 2.

2. The material for ameliorating the symptoms of skin aging of claim 1 wherein the active ingredient having a repairing extracellular matrix comprises one or more of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrane triol, glycosaminoglycans and collagen.

3. Raw material for improving the symptoms of skin aging according to claim 1, wherein the active ingredient promoting the increase in collagen at the junction of the epidermis and the dermis of the skin comprises one or more of neem bark extract, jojoba seed extract and hydrolysed linseed extract.

4. The material for ameliorating the symptoms of skin aging of claim 1, wherein the active ingredient having antioxidant activity comprises one or more of carnosine, tea extract, decarboxylated carnosine, and ergothioneine.

5. The material for ameliorating the symptoms of skin aging of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid carbon chain of the phytoceramide 3 is C18-C24.

6. The material for ameliorating the symptoms of skin aging of claim 1 wherein the solvent comprises one or more of water, 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol, and glyceryl polyether-26.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein said macromolecular thickening agent comprises one or more of ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, sclerotium rolfsii and succinoglycan.

8. The process for preparing a raw material for ameliorating the symptoms of skin aging according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:

s1, adding water into the main pot, adding the macromolecular thickening agent under stirring, homogenizing and stirring to prepare a uniformly mixed macromolecular thickening solution, and heating the macromolecular thickening solution to 80-85 ℃;

s2, heating the plant ceramide 3 to 90 ℃, and completely dissolving to form a pre-prepared phase 1;

s3, adding the pre-prepared phase 1 into the macromolecular thickening solution prepared in the step S1, homogenizing at 80-85 ℃ for 5-10 min, and cooling to 45 ℃ after homogenizing to form a pre-prepared phase 2;

s4, dispersing the first active matter, the second active matter and the three-purpose solvent of the active matter to form a pre-prepared phase 3;

s5, adding the pre-prepared phase 3 into the pre-prepared phase 2 obtained in the step S3 under stirring, homogenizing and stirring for 15min, and sieving with a 200-mesh filter screen to obtain the raw material capable of improving the skin aging symptom.

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